How to Mount Accessories to Your Kayak | Customize Your Kayak

[@PaddleTV]

Important technique to note! Although I use the power drill to tighten the screw at the end, I would HIGHLY recommend doing this by hand to avoid over-tightening the screw and stripping the threads!

[@saydeecannon4083]

"Tighten it until you feel it loosen, then back off a quarter turn"

[@notaloneintokyo]

Using a drill with a clutch and not using the clutch. Seems like no one knows how or wants to use them

[@jackoliva7206]

@@notaloneintokyo Indeed. Useful tools that go unused are wasted money.

[@FreddyJ120]

@@notaloneintokyo I agree - I saw the clutch on his drill and thought “Why isn’t he using that to make sure he doesn’t strip out the screws?”

[@tannerstephenson2327]

If you are worried about water leaking through, you can always put a dab of clear silicone on the threads of the screw before putting the screw in.

[@PaddleTV]

absolutely. I don't bother doing that when the mount is on the deck, but if it's anywhere near or below the waterline, that makes a lot of sense.

[@pb8582]

@@PaddleTV That interesting so my seat mount got ripped/broke off when I got wipe out by a wave in the ocean! (top deck) I went to the shop and they told me to put rivet instead of the self tapping screw! I asked about silicon and they were like what for? it's on the top of the kayak if a bit of water goes though that not a big deal in fact water will always find his way in! I was always obsess by having a water tie kayak sit on top but I guess I changed my mind there!

[@JPatzer2012]

Rivets and marine sealant are an excellent option as well.

[@NightHawk59]

Just my 2 cents, but I would do the final tightening by hand rather than with a drill. It is far easier to apply the correct torque with a reduced chance of stripping the hole. Just a thought.

[@PaddleTV]

100% agree! I should have done that to be safe.

[@edevans5991]

The temptation to use a power tool that happens to be in your hand should not be underestimated.

[@Fleshybitz]

Yes and use a racheting driver or turn the setting on your drill to drive and use the lowest ratchet setting

[@SABjork]

Yes, extra small pilot hole, hand tighten, dab of silicon sealant 502, stainless steel, self-tapping flat top screws. 👏

[@thedevilinthecircuit1414]

silicone.

[@viaujoc]

I did customize my sea kayak. I added a bike bottle holder inside, a pair of thighs rests and a reflective perimeter line. All were installed by drilling holes and attaching the accessories with stainless machine screws and locknuts. My advice: measure twice and mark your holes before drilling.

[@The_Tradie_Trainer]

Curious where you mounted the bottle holder? Looking to mount my (hand) bilge pump basically between my legs and very suss about drilling below the water line.

[@jchambers1191]

Don't forget about Well Nuts - they work well when you can't get to the inside. Also, using the lower clutch settings on your cordless drill can prevent over-tightening. As usual, great video - well done - please keep up the great work!

[@stephencannell3855]

I second this. Well nuts for the win. I would never screw.

[@KyBrancaccio]

Nice vid! Mounting points for the mini sails is one idea, or side clamp for paddle, Tow line mount so that I get even more of a workout when my wife doesn't feel like paddling lol.

[@jjlynn6161]

Where would you place a tow line mount, for when you're towing your wife - up front, or towards the rear?

[@craigmorris2547]

I would recommend using pop rivets instead of screw and a marine sealant around both the holes and the underside of the rail. Screws in soft plastic probably won't stand up to repeated flexing/use. They'll end up stripping and then you'll need to replace with a larger screw.

[@backpacker3421]

The other solution would be nuts and bolts - put some light duty lock-tite on the bolt threads, and use some appropriate washers, at least on the underside, and yes, and a good marine sealant on both sides. In his case, nuts and bolts not working, screws could work fine for this particular system since you have multiple screws, so no real play once installed. You just need to make sure the screw has robust threading, which any screw made for plastics would. Using nylon screws is also usually best since they flex to the plastic rather than biting into it.

[@budman8926]

@@backpacker3421 Everyone seems to be a pro at how the mounting systems work its quite amusing..

[@josephshaff5194]

@@backpacker3421 Yeah. A fastener is held in place by a force and deformation. So that is always present.

[@ChadHooverFishing]

We have tested the breaking strength of both and done it several times on several different platforms and even though it is intuitive and understandable that you would think this, the research actually showed that the self tapping screws held much better, didn't loosen up and have better long term durability than pop rivets. Many pop rivets can also leak through the center in rain or wave action and they are disimilar metals in most cases so they are more prone to corrosion. I would 100% recommend finishing with a hand operated screwdriver here instead of a power tool to avoid stripping the threads, which can happen with even the slightest overtorque.

[@riduck]

Well nuts are my preferred option for screws in plastic. Yes they flex and rotate, but you can add more anchor points for stability, and the compliance protects the threads.

[@alittleofeverything153]

The camera booms on a track works well for me. I made a 5 foot boom out of a monopod mounted to the left side behind my seat. Gives me unlimited angles. Thanks for another great video.

[@neilbrodie1102]

Nice plain instructions that are clear without all the technical jargon that means a novice like me feels confident enough to try 👍

[@PaddleTV]

Glad it helped!

[@pacocuadra8615]

Also, some related suggestions : how to lock your kayak, securing your kayak and , DIY lock antitheft systems,etc

[@backpacker3421]

The only real anti-theft is to put the boat inside a secure building. There are no other theft-proof solutions, but just like locking a bike, there are things you can do to discourage theft. The best I've found for anti theft is to pull the kayak up along side a good solid object like a tree or bike rack. Take a 20 or 30 ft braided steel cable and run it through eyelets (not the handles) halfway-ish up the bow, then run the cable aft, and around the tree a full 360, the back through some eyelets halfway-ish down the stern. Then lock with a padlock in the middle. It helps if the cable runs across the deck and through eyelets on the opposite side of the boat to form a rectangle before meeting in the middle to accept the padlock. That will help distribute the forces if anybody does try to mess with it. NOTE: The does absolutely nothing to secure the contents of your day hatches. Take that stuff with you or secure it a different way.

[@jhondoe1483]

This is the reality bud, locks, security, chains, ect will ONLY keep honest folks honest, if someone wants your yak I don’t care how you lock it down, they will get it, remember 99% of locks and security devices can be overcome with a pair of cable or bolt cutters that can be had at harbor freight for about 20-30 bucks

[@mijaatin]

one suggestion for video: how to transport a kayak with your car? Would be nice to see different systems developed for mounting a kayak to a car.

[@PaddleTV]

Sounds good! I just so happened to have filmed that this week! Stay tuned.

[@backpacker3421]

Touring kayaker here. The first accessory I mounted was a compass so my heading was always easy to read and right in front of me at a glance. The second was a few eyelets for adding some bungee lashing. The third was some mount points for flotation baffles inside the bow and stern storage. The most recent was a telescoping mount for my waterproof 360 degree sports camera. Now when I want to film, I just need to turn on the camera and start it, which is easy since it's right there, then I can extend it above my head and get a full 360 degree view around the boat for as long as needed.

[@PaddleTV]

Very cool! How is the 360 footage to deal with afterwards?

[@josephshaff5194]

Compass is on my list! Nice!

[@tominnenPL]

This topic could be an introduction to develop, widen content. So many possibilities, that everyones imagination can make it stop. Good drilling tips Ken, and yes, You have always my thumb up. You did great job. 👍🏻💚

[@cindygardner3221]

Thanks for being clear & concise! I can do that!

[@dawsonzinza1671]

I love your videos. I recently decided that I want to get into Kayaking, and your videos have been a great help. From what I can tell, you don't really have a general guide on PFDs. Would you consider doing a video comparing features on PFDs to look for? Thank you for your channel!

[@loumitti1842]

Very nice simple video instructions buddy,this was all i needed.Thanks

[@PaddleTV]

Cheers!

[@meagainandagain5756]

Always easy to watch and learn from your videoes

[@PaddleTV]

Thanks!

[@willhoward9865]

pretty thorough explanation> THANKS. My kayak has removable plates for this, just for this circumstance.

[@maryhaynes7580]

Extremely helpful info. Thank you. Looking forward to the video you mentioned on mounting & usage of camera equipment.

[@PaddleTV]

Here you go Mary: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qZjCkolodq14ba8

[@TheCorgiWoman]

Recently bought and used the Yak attack articulated camera mount for my action camera. It fits on the track already on my kayak. Plan to buy a cup holder next.

[@ChrisWhite.fishing]

Cup holder sounds super dumb for ppl outside US

[@hkalsi2136]

Great explanation and demos. Keep it up.

[@JasonLee-t3b]

I mounted all my accessories with gorillas double side all weather proof tape. Never failed even after two seasons so far. Although it’s going to be a pain to get them off in the future as the tape is strong you don’t have holes so that’s a plus

[@jjlynn6161]

Daunting at first.... thank you for sharing. You mention bolts and screws. What about rivets? Is there any accessory mount you might consider sealant for the hole being drilled prior to inserting a screw or bolt?

[@viaujoc]

If you have a kayak made of composite material such as fiberglass or carbon fiber, it is still possible to drill holes. However, extra steps are required to properly drill holes in those materials because they are more brittle and much easier to crack and chip than plastic. There are quite a few good videos on KZbin on how to properly drill into fiberglass.

[@fastmower]

Watched a ton of your content lately - and really learned a lot. So thought I might just be able to help you out with the "bolting something to a place you can't get to the back of" problem. Have a look for something called a rivnut - could be just what you need 🙂

[@KenjiHeuving-j7i]

I got a second hand rec-tour kayak from marketplace for 90 dollars. It is a great kayak but it has no bungee nets, no storage hatches and even no bulkheads. I would like to do some touring with this kayak and some longer routes instead of just a little circle around the same place over and over again. The front has a weird triangulair shape so adding a hatch wouldn't work I want to make a storage hatch because it has a lot of useless space behind the seat that i could use for storage, but because the kayak has no bulkheads the stuff i put in the hatch would be wet if i flip... So, in summary: DRAMA! Do you have some tips?

[@PaddleTV]

Not having bulkheads in the boat is a limiting factor, but not because your stuff will get wet. Whether or not you have bulkheads and hatches, you have to awesome that everything will get wet, because water WILL get in. This means everything that can't get wet needs to be in dry bags. The issue of not having bulkheads means that your entire kayak will fill with water if you flip (or take a big wave over top). This makes it MUCH more difficult to deal with the swamped kayak on the water, whether you are swimming or towing it to shore, emptying it on the water and reentering, etc... This means you need to stay relatively close to shore with the boat, and you need to stay in calm water. BUT, you can do longer trips, or overnight trips with a kayak that doesn't have bulkheads. Simply put everything in dry bags, which you should do anyways. Use a bunch of 5,10,15, 20L dry bags instead of fewer big dry bags, so that you can fit everything into the kayak.

[@KenjiHeuving-j7i]

@@PaddleTV I put a a few plastic footbals in the kayak so it won't sink. I was planning on making a bulkhead myself with thick foam and kit or glue so my kayak won't fully swamp.

[@rgsparber1]

Have you considered using an expanding Molly? Find the shortest grip range and then add washers to thicken up. It will hold far better than screws in plastic. Then you will have a 6-32 tapped hole in metal.

[@PappaMike-vc1qv]

Better than a molly marine rivets hold better and are smooth on both sides preventing snagging of dry bags in the hold.

[@rgsparber1]

@@PappaMike-vc1qv the Molly I’m thinking of spreads out into an X on the backside. If this could snag on something, it means you can reach this back side. In that case, I’d go with a bolt and a large washer with locking nut.

[@MattLevin-q9n]

Ken, can you show how to add Kayak lifelines behind the Pakayak Blufin 142 cockpit area? This would be for tucking a paddle under the lifelines for self rescue using a float at the end of the paddle. There are no lifelines rear of the cockpit, just weak bungee chords. Thanks, Matt.

[@Seektruth-59]

Have you ever considered using/mounting the skidoo/seadoo LinQ system brackets on a kayak?

[@nunyabidness3075]

I’m betting another video people will want is what to do if you do strip the threads tightening a screw. Larger screw? I might suggest the final tightening be done by hand only. Does the plastic hold those screws well? Would something like loctite be a good idea?

[@PappaMike-vc1qv]

locktite will not hold on kayak plastic. There are few adhesives that will.

[@nunyabidness3075]

@@PappaMike-vc1qv Good info. I guess that’s why a bolt is preferred.

[@PaddleTV]

You're 100% right! I should have hand tightened the screws at the end. It was bothering me that I didn't say that (or do that) after the fact. I'll pin a note to this video to let people know.

[@johngandy5458]

I love your videos, and appreciate all your insights. I'm new to the sport so I'm just the peanut gallery squawking, but I'm actually interested in personalizing my kayak. You prefer screws in 1/8" plastic over rivets, adhesives, butterfly clips, plastic welding, or hook and loop? Maybe adhesive combined with screws? Rivets seem like they would be optimal and glue is good redundancy, but running a drill into plastic? NightHawk59 is right that this should at least be done by hand. Am I overthinking this?

[@PaddleTV]

Hey John... yes and no. You're right in that all those things would work, but unless you're putting a tremendous amount of torque on the accessory, self-threading crews work great, and are what YakAttack recommends (and provides) with the mounts. You're absolutely right about doing the last bit by hand. I was thinking that as I was doing it. I didn't have a screwdriver on hand, but should have just used the drill as a screwdriver (without power).

[@Toasty_1992]

I feel like you could use 1/4” toggle bolts for mounting to areas you can’t access. Yes the holes will be bigger, however you can buy gaskets to fit on both sides. You could even cut your own gaskets. This would assure tightest fit possible. I have not personally tried this yet, but I think it is very possible.

[@gregventurevids]

Video idea: I'd love to know how to cut a hole for a hatch cover / storage bag. I recently bought a Pelican Mustang 120 that has a very shallow and pretty useless front "hatch". I found a hatch cover/storage bag on Amazon that fits the hole but I need to cut an 11 inch hole to install. Yikes! Love your videos!

[@PaddleTV]

Yikes for sure! Definitely doable, but I don't have experience with kayak surgery of that nature! :)

[@sprintershepherd4359]

if its a plastic kayak , just mark out the size of the hole you want on some thin ply wood . cut the hole out with a jigsaw with a thin blade (thin blade better for cutting curbs ) then screw your plywood piece to your kayak where you want to cut the hole . and use it a a stencil edge to cut the hole in your Kayak .

[@RonK]

Cool video, thanks. That right arm made me frown for a moment or two, hope you're doing great.

[@mathiasmilne]

Well nuts are also useful for anchoring tracks and mounts if you can’t reach inside to bolt on your mount. Either way you should always apply a healthy dob of silicone (preferably one that is UV & water resistant like a black rtv silicone as it will be under the mount and you won’t see it but it will help to keep any holes water tight). Remember a boat is just a temporary hole in water that you sit in or on and that water will always find unexpected ways into your boat so a a little assurance is good insurance.

[@PaddleTV]

All good points. I think the silicone makes particular sense if the hole is below, or close to the waterline.

[@mathiasmilne]

@@PaddleTV thanks for doing these videos. You do a great job

[@bobbratt3576]

Great info! Thanks!

[@Blackpool2044]

I have a idea on a video. safety equipment you can get for sea, river and lake kayaking

[@PaddleTV]

That's a good one! Stay tuned!

[@muleskinner3224]

I have a Dagger Approach...2003 model...and would like to outfit the deck top with more than what it came with. What accessory source/sites would you recommend? I thought maybe a cell phone mount, paddle holder and some type of cargo "pack" mount. Thanks

[@leedempster4743]

Lol I got solar panels . USB Ports 7' of them . White lights red green . Trolling motor mount and a 26 lb thrust motor. And a heating pad for legs when winter kayaking . Lol to much I know it's all diy . And drilled all holes and sealed. Works great.

[@davejpearson]

What kind of screws are best? My Yak Attack flag came with bolts only. Thank you.

[@thedevilinthecircuit1414]

Rubberized *well nuts* are the cat's meow for a 'blind' hole (no access to the back side of the mounting location).

[@philipregets7556]

Great video thanks

[@PaddleTV]

You bet

[@arogue469]

What do you think of well nuts as an option? Any experiences with them?

[@Mikewparkes]

I added to mounts to my kayak for my phone and GoPro. Once I had all the hole drilled into my boat and mounts where I thought I wanted them I tried to paddle and died a little inside when I realized I couldn’t swing my paddle without banging into my new mounts. I had to move them further to the front of the boat and I’m left with a bunch of ugly holes in my boat :(

[@hapymushroom]

Some great info.ty

[@JobForATurtle]

Okay, question for the kayak anglers out there.... I'm looking to install another mightymount gear track on my Bonafide RS117. Is it a good idea to put a small glob of marine epoxy on each screw while installing it? Will this ensure water-tightness, or am I just being paranoid? Thanks for reading.

[@oxyfide]

I'm thinking the same thing. Im going to use some....it definitely can't make things worse....if anything I think it will almost glue the screw in.

[@michaelknudsen815]

consider well nuts which while not as good as bolts, are better than screwing directly into the kayak (also rivets)

[@michaelknudsen815]

p s kzbin.info/www/bejne/jaGkhaGhorCtj6s

[@patrickbenthamradley5429]

You forgot to mention that your drill/driver has a clutch so you can regulate the tork when screwing into soft materials such as the plastic of the hull thus avoiding stripping the thread ! ;-)

[@PaddleTV]

Good point!

[@ssilverleaf]

Hello I am trying to find a paddle mount for my kayak, but my gear track isn't an open end one.. the gear track already has 2 slidable screw drives, where would I find a paddle holder that goes across the lap to mount to my gear track... Please forgive the complicated question i'm still new thank you I really appreciate your help..

[@PaddleTV]

Without seeing it, it's hard to know for sure... but YakAttack probably has your solution. www.yakattack.us/YakAttack_Paddle_Holder_p/grp-1001.htm I would send them that question (with a picture) to confirm that it will work for you.

[@Tennet3D]

What about adding some glue (water resistant glue like TEC7) in addition to using screws? Just to secure the mount even better, and also securing from letting water in? Unnecessary?

[@PaddleTV]

Wouldn't hurt, but it's really not necessary. It would be more necessary to 'water seal' it if it was below the water line, or in a spot that regularly pooled water.

[@jeannine7002]

Awesome 👍

[@BornSquared]

Did I miss the links or description to these or is this just a “ look at what I have” video??

[@james-white]

Will these accessories work on a carbon fiber kayak? Or is there a specific way you have to install them since it’s a different material?

[@PaddleTV]

That's a good question... and I don't have the answer to it! I would ask the manufacturer how to attach accessories to a composite boat. Sorry I can't be more helpful.

[@justinmcclaughry2574]

Are rivets a option? I’m looking at installing a Bimini duck blind frame for winter

[@PaddleTV]

rivets are an option, although I don't trust them as much for accessories that will bear weight. The duck blind could work, although wind could put too much pressure on the rivets... Bolting would be the best bet, as I wouldn't trust screws to something that could be subject to a lot of force either.

[@bear1014]

where do you find the lanyards???

[@DNYS8N]

Do you know of any trolling motor mounts? I see some doing these high end engineering things but not much easy pressy. Thx

[@PaddleTV]

I wish I could help you! I don't have much experience with kayak motors. I do know a lot of the manufacturers have their own solution. I would try emailing the kayak company direct.

[@DNYS8N]

@@PaddleTV thanks appreciate the comment. I know it’s another off topic comment but do you know foxes for leaking around the pedal drive? I have a hobie AI and takes on lots of water, although I try to seal it.

[@patrickdunn1229]

Use sisaflex 254 as a glue then screw by hand.

[@williamiwaniuk5561]

Bought a CaliCase. It works fine. No water inside the pouch.

[@flyduckwings]

@9:00, how about rivet nuts instead of screws?

[@PaddleTV]

Yup! That works too.

[@DocPestilence]

An alternative if you can't fit a nut and bolt might be a toggle-bolt.

[@NightHawk59]

Much larger hole required. Most likely would need to seal it really well. Always a challenge getting sealants to stick to kayak hull materials.

[@Brillo717]

What is the brand name of that track?

[@PaddleTV]

YakAttack makes them.

[@Gromit801]

A little marine adhesive should be applied.

[@paulwhitmire]

Can you add a diy rudder

[@mikes8948]

Rivets with 5200 sealant

[@rgsparber1]

I’m not trying to be a wise guy. The challenge is figuring out how to install tracks on an inflatable. Maybe a frame that ties into the D rings.

[@saydeecannon4083]

Command strips

[@rgsparber1]

@@saydeecannon4083 that is a great idea for light loads. It would have to be placed so it didn’t dig into the soft plastic when the kayak wasn’t rolled up. Thanks!

[@PaddleTV]

YakAttack has a solution for that, although I haven't tried it: www.yakattack.us/switchpad-flexible-surface-mount-with-mightymount-switch-mmsp-1002/

[@rgsparber1]

@@PaddleTV this would be good for force’s perpendicular to the surface but not for bending. The inflated gunnel would deflect. Placement is also critical as it could prevent folding in the right place when being rolled up. A “picture frame” of channel anchored at the corners with these devices should work.

[@justpassinthrough7]

Just goop the hole and re screw. Normally I use a screw driver and not a drill.

[@grahamjordan8278]

Check your manufacturer's warranty before making any modifications or drilling holes for attachments.

[@ranjitkprasad]

Hi ken

[@adamdaman6385]

Don’t use screws!!! If you cannot bolt on then riveting or rivnuts is a much better option! I’m surprised this kayak pro doesn’t know or was not aware of this!?!?! Learn something new everyday i guess…

[@ionageman]

I don’t know why kayaks aren’t fitted with shade .

[@vedadrokkor]

OMG, PLEASE put the screwdriver to speed 1 when screwing in the screws....HELOOOOO...

[@modernwarfare2thegun]

Don't listen to him he must be a retail rep. It is very easy to completely secure horizontal stabalizers, sails, screens, tracks, etc if you have the right tools……. I know I made many mistakes before becoming aware.

[@josephshaff5194]

Just scavenged a net f/ my blow up.

[@fishingpinky3165]

Actual instructions begin at 9:04 your welcome!

[@db2474]

Rivets

[@PappaMike-vc1qv]

Please do not use those screws on a plastic boat. The best method is to melt the hole with a hot nail of the correct size and attach your accessory with aluminum marine rivets (they have an o-ring and self sealing hole). Drilling a hole in a plastic kayak takes material out and leaves the hull with a weak point, and screws can easily pull out of plastic. Melting the hole builds up plastic around the hole and rivets spread the pressure on the plastic beyond the hole which prevents cracking. Also the rivets have a smooth finish that will not snag dry bags or cut hands or legs.

[@sprintershepherd4359]

sounds like a bit of overkill really . if anything just drill a smaller hole . the plastic is pretty flexible and not brittle

[@MrFishBlood]

Pro-tip: This will NOT work on inflatable kayaks... Ask me how I know!

[@tomallen6073]

Fishing kayaks are kinds creepy IMO.

[@dirklademann2398]

Diese ganzen Gimmicks....wer braucht sowas??? Ich bin bis heute mit Seekarte und Kompass unterwegs, habe mich nie verfahren oder bin in eine Situation geraten, die nur mithilfe anderer bereinigt werden musste. Ich weiß, dass viele dieser Spielereien nützlich sein können - ich weiß aber auch, dass Papier keine Funktionsstörungen hat.

[@PaddleTV]

True, paper maps are great but people love their gadgets!

[@ranjitkprasad]

First