How to: multiple abseils part one

[@mikelee285]

Anyone else hear the cow get hurt when the giant rope ball was thrown?!?!?!🤣🤣 Enjoying the vids - keep up the good work.

[@1Molehill]

It's all very well not putting knots in the bottom each rope when your at Tremadog & know each route inside out. But when your abseiling into the unknown at a new venue, then you want to make sure you don't just come off the end.

[@prusikmallorca]

Good vid, but why you didn`t made a knot in the end of the rope?

[@pauldavies9360]

Prusik Mallorca maybe because it's just one pitch and most of the time you can see if the rope is on the floor. big multi pitch abseils yes definitely tie a knot in the end

[@pauldavies9360]

mmm well I suppose if you have just claimed that roots you kind of have an idea if the Rope is long enough

[@prusikmallorca]

Yes, I thought about that posibility, but in the second part of 3, he is a multipitch route. I can't english so maybe I don't understand all the explanations, because is a little bit strange the operation at the second belay leaving the nuts

[@matthewvigil891]

There's always "that guy" in every climbing video comment section.

[@DaOndee]

You definitely want to put knots in the end of the rope. Good practice and can potentially save your life. Rappelling off the end of the rope is the #1 reason for fatalities in climbing.

[@PierrePapet]

Coming from the BMC who should promote highest safety standard this is very sketchy as said in previous comments.

[@ethanguy82]

Is that the dyneema tether girth hitched to the belay loop? Forgive me if it’s been said a million times but should be girth hitched to the hard points instead.

[@grahamkolb2916]

Yeah, I thought it was common practice to put nylon or dyneema ("soft" goods") girth hitched through the hard points only, and never through the belay loop (which I've heard is meant to handle metal gear and could potentially begin to fray away to the point of failure if soft goods rub on it over time, as they tend to do when rappelling.) Could be a myth like microfractures (and I could be wrong, after all they make harnesses with only one attachment point/ie belay and hard points are the same single loop), but I take it rather seriously and practice it the way ethan george said

[@DaOndee]

No, that's considered good practice. At least in the eastern Alps where I climb. The girth hitch does not move so no, there is no wear on the belay loop.

[@DaOndee]

Tying in with your rope is a different story. There, you want to use the "hard points" since it gets the knot closer to your body, you double up the belay loop and free it for other uses such as the before mentioned girth hitch of the personal anchor.

[@6king533]

forgive my ignorance for I am new to climbing (I'm not going to be trying this anytime soon, I'm just curious. I'll be sticking with top roping for a while) but why use two ropes? I've seen a couple of these videos and you're using two ropes.

[@liamelliott3779]

There are a couple of reasons why someone might choose to rappel with two ropes. When someone is rappelling on two ropes, the main advantage is in getting to do a full length rappel which saves a lot of time in multi pitch rappel scenarios. With a single 60 metre rope, you must pass half of the rope through the rappel anchor in order to rappel on both strands. Because you fold it in half, this means you only get to rappel 30 metres at a time. With two smaller 60 metre ropes, as is demonstrated in this video, you tie the ropes together with a flat overhand knot and then thread one side through until you reach the knot. Because the knot takes up less than 1 metre of material from each rope, you still have ~59 metres of material from each rope to do a double strand rappel on. I hope this clears things up. As for why someone would choose to climb with twin or double(half) ropes, the former is used with meandering climbs to avoid rope drag, and the latter is usually used for long multi pitch climbs.

[@christianspencer880]

also nice to have two ropes on wandering multi pitch routes to decrease rope drag.

[@MattNicassio]

Well said. @Liam

[@claudioypolloni]

never see before that ball of rope! jajaja nice

[@fonzey6774]

I'd rather saddlebag abseil, especially on higher pitches.

[@minchmoorramblers6856]

The ball of rope is known properly as a “monkeys fist”.

[@IanPlumlee]

I've also heard it called an alpine torpedo.

[@tebv4144]

sketchiest abseil i've seen. no redundancy on the dynema before the abseil. why not use 2 of them? why not a double fisherman knot when connecting the ropes? that double overhand is twice as thick on one side as a fishermans, there's no telling if the thick part will get stuck or if the skinny side will slide past cracks etc. no stop knot on the ropes? in part 2 he says the rope is not long enough to hit the ground. do you want to abseil in terminal velocity? because thats how you abseil in terminal velocity. in part 2 he say that he does a prussik, but he instead does a machard.. but what do I know.

[@davidcross30]

What about redundancy for the redundancy? maybe back that one up too? The overhand knot to join them works well as you pull it rolls over so that the rock face thus preventing the knot from jamming. There is always to odd chance that either a double fishermans or overhand will jam but that is where you should try to do everything else to avoid the possibility of it, keeping tension pull in a direction away from obvious sticky points etc. Definitely put a knot on the end!!! The prussik he has done is a french prussik as opposed to a machard (klemheist) type.

[@DaOndee]

@@davidcross30 Yea, totally aggree! Was going to write the same. It's prusik with one S though, named after Karl Prusik. 👍

[@davidcross30]

@@DaOndee yeah spilling isn’t my best attribute. 😉