HOW TO - Paint a Faux CHROME Finish on Your Props - TUTORIAL

[@punishedprops]

I've been getting a lot of comments about the Alsa Easy Chrome paint. Our pal Harrison over at Volpin Props did a fantastic and thorough review of the stuff: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGmzkHurnbF9j8U

[@DomesticWithAnMD]

Have you tried C1 Metalizer powder? It's another fairly strong (if a bit labor intensive) method with real reflections, that doesn't require an airbrush and is reasonably resilient.

[@christopherdevine8631]

Thanks for this video, I’ve had mixed results using “chrome” paints and the big can with the blown out bottom has given me the best results so far myself. Thanks for doing this comparison!

[@Emleung55]

You should add a list of some of your frequently used air brush paints/non airbrush paints to your website, and then maybe an example of a project you used it in. I know it would come in super handy for someone like myself who just got an airbrush, but has no clue where to start in terms of actual paints!

[@punishedprops]

That's a pretty good idea. I'll see if I can get my website gnomes on it.

[@Fuffuloo]

I second this idea!

[@JanTuts]

13:11 You just need to tweak the Metallic and Roughness values of your PBR material a bit, and you're there! :P

[@jamesbihl]

This is great, thanks for the breakdown of the different options! I’ve had some bad results in the past using rustolium clear coats on their metallic paints. The metallic coat on part I used clear coat on started wrinkling after a couple of minutes (looked like a fingerprint texture). I had to soak the part in brake fluid, sand and repaint.

[@hurtinalbertan3553]

Man that baby Bladerunner blaster gets me every time! Damn you made that thing look gorgeous! Maybe, very strong maybe, my fave build! It’s just too whacky and cute!

[@punishedprops]

Thanks!

[@hunterparis7228]

Adam savage recently used Molotow liquid chrome for a larp sword. It’s a paint pen refill but I would love to know how it compares.

[@punishedprops]

I have one of those pens, but not just the straight up liquid paint. My guess is that it's similar to the alclad lacquers, but I haven't tried it.

[@madmarzon]

I bought a refill after watching Adam's video and just tried it on my Saint-14 build. As good as alclad if not better

[@hunterparis7228]

Mike K thank you! I might invest in some now. Darn internet keeps taking my money.

[@LunerAnimator]

Actually I have a couple cans of Rustoleum and they're not perfect but they're actually a lot more reflective in a Wayne you need to find the one that has like the Chrome cap on those are really good just for a quickie no chrome finish not perfect but it's still really good I can almost see my reflection in it

[@pandapropsncostumes]

Hey Bill, great tutorial as usual. Tip: use a tack rag (sticky cloth you can get from automotive supply shops). After you have sanded your parts, clean the part like you did but then give it a wipe with the tack cloth to catch lint and dust etc. This would have removed those specks before you started painting. Good luck!

[@punishedprops]

Good tip! I picked some up the other day so that I'll be ready for my next chrome paint project.

[@pandapropsncostumes]

Cool, looking forward to your next project as always. :)

[@krisinsaigon]

Thanks for this- I''m trying to make props for a short film and this really helps

[@jackneiner7322]

What movie are you working on?

[@PBProps]

This is a really good, in depth video here, full of extremely useful information that I'm sure everyone will appreciate. I'd like to make a suggestion to you for an extra way of getting a great chrome result that maybe you'd like to try out for yourself and your viewers... if you don't mind, that is. Once you've wet sanded your piece to death and it's got that polished gleam, give it a spray of matt black primer and wet sand as before until this too gleams. Next up, use 2K clear gloss (in can form is easiest) and spray that as a wet coat to the point that it almost runs, just like you did with the enamel. The only difference here is that the shine will out do the enamel by miles and will truly look wet, there's really no comparison between the two, the 2K wins each time in my opinion. Anyway, once this has dried, then you can spray on your Alclad and you'll see a real improvement in the chrome / metallic finish's vibrancy. Finally, Aqua Gloss over that if you want to and hey presto. I'd be interested to see your results and hear your thoughts too.

[@punishedprops]

Catalized finishes really are magical. I usually don't suggest them because most people don't have an HVLP sprayer, but the spray cans of the 2K stuff are great. I have a spare can kicking around so I'll try to remember to give that a go for a chrome finish video next time I use it.

[@johnson9195]

Thank you for taking the time to create this. Great information.

[@punishedprops]

Thank YOU for taking the time to watch it!

[@coryjamescooper]

Your videos are so informative and thorough. Thank you so much.

[@punishedprops]

You're welcome!

[@hed420]

You should try an Alclad chrome paint . Interested to see how real chrome like it is .

[@punishedprops]

The "chrome" color is very similar to the polished aluminum color that I used.

[@buildersmark]

Bill you need to watch the episode of West Coast Customs the has the Mitsubishi Model T. They have a process that you may want to look into specifically for chromed plastics. It's a primer coat, a base coat, activator, chrome coat, & finish clear coat. In that episode they also did a brass finish.

[@demofactory]

Thanks for the great video!!! Demonstrations, and comparisons in one stop!!!!! Love your channel. I've learned a lot from you. Take care, and happy New Year!!!

[@lasarith2]

This is what I was working on last year, I had some success with Golden GAC -100 multi purpose acrylic polymer, and Mod Podge gloss luster on EVA foam, had to be within 2 inches to see the reflection though.( gave a quite good brushed Titanium look)

[@MickeyCuervo36]

One thing I've tried that I like is VHT Plate Finish. I was only able to get it by having O'Reiley's Auto Parts get it for me. Same sort of issues as the Rustoleum Chome though. Super thick, takes forever to cure, and isn't as durable as I'd like. Looks really nice though. I also saw Adam Savage on Tested use Molotow Super Chrome refill ink in an airbrush that looked pretty nice on camera.

[@NiceMongooseProd]

If you apply the Molotow liquid well with airbrush or a simple brush, it actually is almost mirror finish, even without a gloss black basecoat ! It's incredible, you should give it a try !

[@punishedprops]

It's on my list of stuff to try.

[@PrimalEdge]

takes me back to when I used to work in an auto body shop. very similar process... great video 👍

[@punishedprops]

Thanks!

[@wrightexe1]

Can you paint Google with chrome?

[@MiggyManMike]

That was wonderfully awful :p

[@punishedprops]

Zing!

[@edmundschwartzadder5360]

Google is trying to Chrome everything.

[@UREALERO]

I recently tried a thing called Molotow liquid chrome and i had stunning results in a some patches of a EVA helmet. I knew of this product from those Adam Savage's one day builds on Tested where he build a sword. I would like to watch a really pro like you testing this product.

[@MakeBrooklyn]

Great info Bill. clearly this is an area where you really shine!

[@punishedprops]

I see what you did there. =)

[@burkeysvids]

Something I've played with (with some success) was using graphite powder over a gloss black. It's fine enough that it sticks to a black gloss, enough to give it that slight chrome sheen. It does turn out quite dark however.

[@jimlightcap7994]

Bill, when using a vacuum formed clear material, try using krylon looking glass spray paint but paint the back of the piece. The contact surface maintains the look of the wet chrome paint without having to touch the clean smooth finished outer surface.

[@punishedprops]

Neat!

[@kaisnyker]

the rusto chrome will dry to be fairly durable much like the airbrushed ones just allow it to dry for a day and then take it inside the house for a day and it'll set up hard as nails. reason you let it dry in the shop for a day is the smell of spray paint while its curing. now if the smell doesn't bother then you can take it in the house and cut the dry time in half. still the airbrushed ones would take far less time. but now you know for anyone who decides the spray can route is the way they want to go. also yes DO NOT apply a clear coat to the spray can ones. just something in the chrome ones that don't agree with the clears. believe me ive tried every brand and every combo. #justpaint1 keep creating and always wear your mask when using sprayed paints even air brushed stuff. safety first =)

[@tgxperience]

When you rattle can chrome you have to put a lot of distance between you and the target. Like 20-30" vs standard 15". The downside is you have to be cognizant of ambient temperature or it will glob when you spray because it dries and coagulates a bit before hitting the surface at that distance. Light quick movements ot sort of just fog it on. I leave some of the black as you do to enhance the chrome effect.

[@ABrokenSociety]

The Krylon Chrome spray is amazing.

[@VocaSky]

I got a pretty decent chromey finish with a rattle can, by priming first with several layers of PVA glue and then using the can.

[@punishedprops]

Ooh nice!

[@VertVixenStudios]

Thank you so much for making this!!!!! Wish i had known these things for arthas LOL! Thank you so much for doing all these tests!

[@punishedprops]

You're most welcome. I'm working on a 2nd chrome paint video with even more examples.

[@H3XIUS]

There's a signmaker spray called frog juice that is a very good and UV protectant clear coat you might want to check out. It's even foam safe.

[@slagondrayer447]

Must have been reading my search history, because I was just looking this up yesterday! I have a chrome warhammer to make. Punished Props to the rescue!

[@punishedprops]

Huzzah!

[@Nanpa0]

You can Polish the clear coat to give it a high shine.

[@btrain2385]

Pro tip for reducing dust/lint in your paint, use a "tack rag" to essentially dust your part immediately before paint. These are available through autobody suppliers. Also, plastic parts are especially susceptible to static electricity which attracts dust. Cleaning with denatured alcohol and grounding your part to earth help alot.

[@punishedprops]

Good tip! I was at the hardware store yesterday and I picked some up. I'll give them a go the next time I do a paint job like this. =D

[@paulfuryes203]

If you add graphite over top of it and polish it would it make it more shiny

[@bigguy78246]

I wonder if you buff the clear coat if that would help bring a bit of the shine back.

[@sublimationman]

Have you seen Alsa Easy Chrome? It can be sprayed or even brushed on over black and in a minute or two becomes mirror quality chrome, yes, you can actually see yourself in it. But it's not cheap though probably a lot cheaper than sending something out to be chromed.

[@punishedprops]

It is quite expensive and from what I've heard the results aren't as great as their promo videos would have you believe.

[@sublimationman]

Good to know. I've only seen 2 videos on it and both made it "look" perfect.

[@jeroenverbong4884]

What about polishing the chrome layer and then put another layer on top

[@tb9187]

Depending on the material underneath, I wonder how mirroring or slivering chemicals would work. I know it’s possible to do so and, quite literally, end up with a mirror finish. Plastics, glass, etc. all work but have to be *super* clean. It may also be as cost prohibitive as chroming, but I have never looked into getting something chrome played, so I am not certain.

[@ytfpv2627]

If you are looking for other metallic colors similar to Alclad, but water based (Acrylic), you should have a look at the Vallejo metal color line. Helas, they dont have a really good looking chrome, but lots of steel, aluminium, copper, gun metal, etc.

[@trebledroid]

I think a while back on an old video you mentioned something about Pledge Future Floor Wax or Pledge Floor Care used to clear coat metal to get a decent shine. Maybe worth a try.

[@punishedprops]

You know what, I bought some, but I haven't tried it yet.

[@Collin326C]

chrome is cool in some instances but, especially if you're working with aluminum, try to sand to an insanely high grit then polish. also a nice finish

[@dlcoflowre4966]

Hello I'm chokri from Algeria I saw the video was good for me I benefited from it, thank you for choosing this video. I have a query that I want to know about nickel chromium components and ratios of materials.

[@drakecooley4776]

another tip for making it shiny is once the paint is fully cured, use a little buffing compound and a polishing wheel and it will bring a brilliant shine to it

[@kenny241100]

How would you go about a high shine gold? Like the finish (similar) to Thomas' helmet from Daft Punk?

[@punishedprops]

Similar process. You'll want to make sure your surface is SUPER smooth, apply a HIGH gloss black paint, then a quality metallic gold - I personally like Alclad II lacquers

[@TheGoat257]

Have you seen Infosmercial's video on electroplating? He gets a pretty nice nickel coat on his phasma helmet, much harder technique than using paints but looks quite nice .

[@JebusFlynt]

I haven’t done it yet myself but I was going to try using the mirror finish rattle can to go for the chrome look. Have you tried that before?

[@punishedprops]

The rattle can I used in this video is labeled as "mirror chrome". I'm not sure specifically which rattle can you're going to try. They vary a bit depending on the brand.

[@mattiasangelo]

Just curious. Have you tried high gloss enamel or high gloss acrylic finishes/mediums? I see the lacquer and other clear coats here, but not those. I find some of the art grade stuff isn’t too terribly expensive, and I’ve had some insanely smooth and glossy finishes come out of it. I’ve never done a true chrome coat, but I do textured metal (looks almost galvanized with a lot of depth to the color and shine). I actually use a flat back base then use a tamping/ dusting method for a deep nickel/gunmetal color followed by a bright silver with the same technique. A few spritzes or brushes (depending on which I use) gives a crazy high gloss as long as the paint is fully cured first. I can tone it back a bit or dust on some more flat black to pull spots back down for weathering. For brass, it’s just flat black with a good covering of antique gold and the same finishing technique. Copper, again, is a layering of antique and bright. ...I tend to do more distressed metals, so I’ve never looked for mirror finishes, but this is usually enough to throw a significant amount of reflective light back to be convincing. I have to stress cure times, though. Acrylic paints take a few days to fully lose their moisture. If any is left, it will dull even the glossiest of finishes or make it cloud in spots. It’s best to put them aside 2-3 days or a week to be safe and come back to finish them. I work in mache, wood, foam, and thermoplastic, and people have commented it’s nearly impossible to tell which is which or that much of it isn’t real-even when I have working mechanical pieces made of real metal next to them. It’s cheap paint for the most part too-folk art craft paint. Sounds crazy, but most of their metallics have very fine particles-nearly more pearlescent than most of the gritty or matte things offered in cheap paints-and they level really well if you don’t have access to more expensive paints. Since I brought up mache, I’ve got another fun project if you want to give it a go. If you make a clay from pulp (check out ultimate paper mache smooth clay), it’s really easy to finish like wood. You can make branches, staves, etc, and simply finish them with a hand rasp and the wood stain of your choice. You just have to make sure to keep a clean rag or paper towel in hand to pick the stain back up if you don’t want it as dark as it goes because the mache will absorb it fast. The stain sets into the grooves you put in, so they’re naturally darker and stand out immediately with no further effort. Finish it with an enamel or acrylic of your choice for shine level, and voila!

[@punishedprops]

Our employee has fiddled with enamels a little bit but we haven't. Thanks for all the info!

[@mattiasangelo]

Punished Props Academy any time! Thanks for your videos! They’ve given me plenty of ideas for future projects :)

[@robertmorris2573]

Hi what’s up. While watching your tutorial on the different paints I noticed two different bottles of glue. Blue and green tip. Can you please do a small tutorial on the different glues. If you already did please let me know. Thank you.

[@punishedprops]

The green bottle is super glue remover. I have a bunch more info in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bXXadHiLitygras

[@vaxyyfn4528]

Where would I go to get a prop chromed plated ? Any certain company’s or website recommendations

[@punishedprops]

We haven't done chrome plating.

[@vaxyyfn4528]

@@punishedprops ik but what company that you know of chrome plated props

[@jibranyar5977]

Bill for you dust problem you should build a compact spray booth like what Bob over at I like to make stuff built

[@Dishyg]

Jibran Yar he has one. He said in this video that it was being occupied

[@punishedprops]

That is a great idea. I'm planning on it.

[@jibranyar5977]

Punished Props awesome!! Future build video?!?!

[@jibranyar5977]

thanks for letting me know i didn't hear that in bills vid

[@PearlJam2k6]

A small tidbit i've learnt from KayPike, she use automotive chrome tape for her N52 Wonder Woman on her chest eagle. By my guess it wouldnt work for very curved areas but for anything flat it could work quite well looking at her work

[@reggylippens6259]

heat the foam so it closes off a bit than use flexibond or gesso 2 layers or so than smooth that down so 2 layers flexi is better 1 spraying smoothing than adding the other layer than paint it than seal it ....just diffrence between flexibond and gesso is flexibond is more moveable without chirping or cracking and gesso is harder but cracks faster if there is lot of movement in the prop or costume ^^

[@punishedprops]

Thanks for the tips!

[@xxhellspawnedxx]

I've only seen it at work, never used it, but... What about using a primer with microfiller in it (like the ones Alclad have)? Wouldn't that smooth out the texturing rather well?

[@punishedprops]

I've never tried microfillers, I'll have to do some research.

[@benporteranubisankh]

Thanks for this. Super helpful.

[@punishedprops]

You're welcome!

[@TheCityInk]

You should try Spaz Stix Ultimate Mirror Chrome and VHT Plate Finish Chrome also.

[@JoannaPiancastelli]

I wonder if you could use something like chrome nail powder for this. It might be tedious over a large area, but for small patches you can get a very reflective mirror finish.

[@punishedprops]

That sounds pretty neat!

[@axlejohnson9156]

I have been attempting to repair a headlight bezel inside a Jaguar headlight assembly. I found out the hard way that the factory finish is water base and wiped off easily when I tried to clean it. These bezels have a mirror finish and I haven't been able to replicate that. I've tried almost all these products. The best result has been with a Rustoleum product called "Mirror Finish". But the mirror effect is simply not the same and falls seriously short of the original finish. You can't buff them to a better shine either. Your results are not any better than what I've been able to achieve. So all these products fall incredibly short of the factory finish. So the question is, how do that make these mirrored surfaces. They are water based, but what is the process. Are they using electrolysis. Like in powder coating systems. Is it possible they are using a magnetic field to align the particles. It's not just the atomization of the paint. I've tried an air brush and it makes no difference how fine you atomize this paint.

[@Cluless02]

Hey, looks better than chrome! Satin always beats chrome any day!!

[@fredtorgerson6702]

Not really related to vid, but if im making a shell to a dart gun could I use a resin or would it have to be injection molded plastic? N if so what would u recommend for resin type?

[@rawksis]

What airbrush gun do you suggest using?

[@zns72]

Maybe place a thin layer of wax and then buff it to a high shine to seal it. Renaissance high crystalline wax might work.

[@MrThamus]

try rub graphite powder with soft cardboard, its give nice shine. Paints 2 layers warnish and let dry, then try graphite powder.

[@bigboibunz]

What about if you vapor smoothed a print? Would that make things quicker? Just a thought

[@theshockmonster8421]

Cant wait to use this on a toy thermal detonator!

[@geraldinewoods254]

He'S HaS a ThErMal deToNaToR

[@jcgardeaa]

Hey Bill, Did you try polishing or sanding any of the paints? I wonder what the results would be?

[@punishedprops]

I did not. I've heard that the lacquers can benefit from a buffing with cloth. I'll give that a go next time I try these paints.

[@GothiczHouseOfKustomz]

Supposed to shoot at an angle, and spray till it starts to gloss up, use Dupli color spray chrome, I can get a mirror finish using it, tho as for durability, no so much, also with alclad, it needs more then one coat, also clear coat before you use the black base, the same with Spaz stix chrome set up.....

[@Wraithbored]

How about mixing a 60% varnish 40% aluminium colour as a final lair?

[@matthewazevedo274]

The chrome spray can's bottom was bulged. Did that happen when you warmed the paint in warm water? I had that happen to me alot and stopped warming the can for fear of rupture.

[@punishedprops]

Yeah I heated up the can in hot water and when I shook the can the bottom popped out. It was rather startling.

[@Vinnero0]

Rust Oleum (American Accents Ultra Cover 2X) makes a bright gold and silver that does pretty good, not as good as an airbrush but much better then there regular metallic.

[@Convair_F-106]

best chrome finished I got so far is with Molotow Liquid Chrome. I can see myself in the surface.

[@punishedprops]

I just got some to try out.

[@YorkRobert]

How did it go? I've been using the pens to amazing effect. I've seen some videos of other people airbrushing it from the refill, and getting parts good enough to see mirror reflections in.

[@thomashaley3830]

Adam savage did his excalibur in the molotov paint it looked really good.

[@3dprintingteen164]

where did you get that beautiful walther ppk looking bladerunner pistol it is amazing i would to buy one

[@punishedprops]

That's a kit made by Goldberg Arms. I don't think they're currently available.

[@cosplayrik5909]

Is there a rattle can clear coat that can be sprayed on the chrome without dulling the finish?

[@punishedprops]

Check out Coregeek's video! kzbin.info/www/bejne/lXnJcnt7mZuSbbM It's about sealing graphite but it works well for Chrome too!

[@nobocks]

After paiting how you make your props paint strong to not get scratched in 10 sec ?

[@punishedprops]

2-3 coats of clear finish can help with that. That's why I like the Aqua Gloss for the Alclad paints.

[@pixl3l]

But the main difference when you look at all 4 at the same time has to be thickness, the two applied with the airbrush are so thin you get the shine from the black undercoat that gives depth.

[@peaoat3608]

Can the surface of paint be buffed/polished to look more shiny?

[@punishedprops]

Many of these faux chrome finishes can be buffed with a cloth, but anything more aggressive may chew through the paint.

[@smashtime1904]

Can this be sprayed on cloth/plastic? Would it peel off? I'm trying to spray paint an umbrella jellyfish diffuser to make the surface reflective for use with a white translucent umbrella...

[@punishedprops]

I'm not sure, I've never tried! It would certainly be an interesting experiment

[@easyhelp]

Can't you polish it after the final layer? Or would it destroy the surface?

[@punishedprops]

It depends on which one you use. They all have a range of durability.

[@kniffin719]

Not sure if it will work but flex seal makes a super smooth surface usually(Especially when from the paint can and not the spray can). I wonder how any of these would look on a surface that smooth?

[@punishedprops]

It would depend on how flexible the fully dried paint is.

[@Isrebetv]

Have you think about using the nail powders that nail tech use to make chrome nails? It may work even when I think it is not that durable

[@punishedprops]

I have not. That's a deep rabbit hole! =D

[@bigtgamer1]

I know this is older but I just found your page, you should try powdered graphite and seal it with pledge floor wax 👌

[@discreetdesign2668]

This video was awesome and answered a lot of questions thank you, however there is some sort of spray paint I forget the name of but it's meant for spraying the reverse side of glass or clear plastic to make DIY mirrors would it be possible to cast a clear prop that you would have access to the back side and possibly still get that mirror finish much like your button? Love the channel keep up the good work

[@punishedprops]

That's definitely possible. It's how people make chromed visors. That would take a lot of planning to get a perfect finish on a clear cast or vacuum formed plastic, but I guess it's possible.

[@RespectBeautyTruth]

You tried 'Spaz Stix' yet? Similar to alclad but twice as much for same money - try Amazon.

[@kicksit1980]

How much of the Auto-Air black and Quicksilver will I need for wet coating and chrome coating a full scale PLA printed Vader Lightsaber replica? I am just starting to get into this and don't want a $30 bottle of chrome paint just sitting there if I don't need that much for now. I have no other chromed projects in the works and am looking to save at least a little on paints so I can budget for other props. Thanks for the vid, it has been super helpful prepping the prop.

[@punishedprops]

We're glad you found the video helpful! I'd ask your local hobby shop what they think - they may have a better idea of how much you'll need

[@kicksit1980]

​@@punishedprops Don't really have a decent hobby shop around here. Especially not one where they have much knowledge of airbrushing. Generically speaking would I be OK with the 1oz size of each for this single lightsaber project?

[@kaitripician7487]

Great video, will keep this in mind for an upcoming sword project I'm helping a friend with... also, did I notice a white lotus tile in the background?

[@punishedprops]

Why yes, you did!

[@elvishmaster44]

Hey Punished Props, great video! I have a question, what if you are using a prop that needs to be a bit flexible, like a bracer, that should look metallic from afar but might be made of something like pleather. What do you recommend to use so that the paint doesn't crack or crease?

[@punishedprops]

I really like Angelus leather paints for things like that.

[@RickMeasham]

Some awesome tips and more in the comments. Any chance of you making and selling a bunch of those vacuum formed rings so we can try other finishes and send them back to you for an international “chrome-off”?

[@punishedprops]

That's a pretty fun idea, but I don't think I have the time to organize it. Sorry! =(

[@nikushim6665]

Its not expensive or really all that difficult. Just use tollens reagent, you can either make it your self or just buy a two part spray kit, You just need to wash/dry it followed with a clearcoat afterwords. That silver layer will tarnish otherwise.

[@drwhoweigs]

Would there be a possibility you could do a tutorial on painting a carbon fiber look?

[@punishedprops]

When I come up with a project that uses a faux carbon fiber, I'll do a tutorial. =)

[@MrTheNintroller]

Do you have any experience with those spray on chemical chrome kits? And if so what are some good sellers to buy that type of stuff from?

[@punishedprops]

I do not.

[@amandasnider2644]

Hi, I'm really new to prop making and I recently took a dollar store gun, carved and engraved it and added new grips by removing the plastic then filling it with plastimake pellet plastic then multiple coats of pearly nail polish to make it look like mother of pearl. For the rest of the gun I sanded it severely then sprayed two coats of Dupli-color Instant chrome finish spray paint and it looked really realistic! It was only $15. However, I was heartbroken to learn that when I handled it (after two days of drying) and the natural oils of my hands somehow dulled the shine and it darkened. I tried a clear coat on top of the scrap plastic that I sprayed first with the chrome but it completely dulled and got darker with no shine.

[@amandasnider2644]

I'd love to send you a picture of my prop if you are interested and may have some suggestions.

[@punishedprops]

I found the same thing happens with the spray paint chrome that I used. I think that's just the nature of those rattle can chromes. I don't know how to protect it *and* keep that high shine.

[@Riceball01]

I wonder, would a wax, like the kind used to protect sword blades from skin oils, work? I say this because sword blades can get discolored if oils from skin are allowed to sit on the blade for too long and people apply special waxes that help protect the blade from the oils. Since the chrome paint also darkens/discolors from skin oil it may be because of metallic content in the paint, if so, then the wax should work.

[@theFallinOne]

theres a spray on chrome, think its called something like spray chrome or hydrochrome?? its a two or three step process, as the different coats react they turn to a chrome looking finish? there was an audi r8 completel;y sprayed in it a few years ago on a car modifying program.. wonder would they be any use??

[@punishedprops]

I've seen that too. You need some pricey equipment and chemicals. It's difficult to justify unless you plan to do a lot of it.

[@theFallinOne]

Punished Props that's true.. a litre of base coat and a litre of top coat is about £100/$140 dollars plus think theres another chemical and spray guns and the likes.. the effect is amazing though..

[@NorthViewModelShop]

Great tip is..... have lots of plastic soup spoons on hand. They are perfect to test paint on.

[@Dishyg]

Everytime I add a layer of paint (any) over the Clear Coat, I get cracks. No matter how long stuff has been dry for. Even stuff that had been sealed weeks ago, and wiped clean and degreased got cracking :(

[@frozeninfernovfx9460]

How well would the "Mirror" spray paint compare to the Chrome spray?

[@punishedprops]

I'm not exactly sure which specific brand or paint you're referring to. There are many varieties of "chrome" or "mirror" spray paints at hobby and hardware stores. It would be difficult to try them all and give a recommendation. I think the "mirror chrome" spray paint I used in this video is pretty representative of what you'll get from most of those types of spray paints.

[@frozeninfernovfx9460]

Sorry was on mobile when I sent the message came across a video a while ago kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGnMhYSto6mUgskm14s Rust-oleum Mirror Effect now the only thing is its on the opposite side than what your spraying so when its flipped over then you can see yourself is there a way to add plastic or a spray to maybe bring that shine to the surface your originally spraying on instead of the underside? thanks for the quick reply btw and love your work

[@kokkari37]

I'm wondering what you thin your Alclad lacquer paints with?

[@punishedprops]

The Alclad lacquers do not require any thinner.

[@kokkari37]

Punished Props Academy thanks for the reply. What do you use to clean it out of your airbrush?

[@westieBrucedavidson]

Just saying for on the cheap..i have a small pup tent i bought just to spray in also have small fan on light setting .have had no problem with contaniments ever since

[@punishedprops]

That's a great idea!

[@hiba]

Hey bill, is alclad enamel/ oile based or water based?

[@punishedprops]

I'm 99% sure it's a lacquer based paint.

[@hiba]

@@punishedprops Thankss..

[@geet77777]

I can't find anyone who will ship al-clad to the states. Im looking for the mil-spec airbrush paint.

[@punishedprops]

Alclad is available on Amazon! You can also check out the Alclad II lacquers to find shopping locations around the US.

[@geet77777]

@@punishedprops Thanks for the response. Amazon has the same colors Ebay has. they dont have "British brown bess". doesn't seem to be discontinued though, just scarce and unavailable in the US.

[@javiergaspardengraalmecija7746]

What are the correct clear coat?

[@punishedprops]

It depends on the finish. For Alclad paints I like Aqua Gloss. Testors makes a "sealer for metalizers" that's good too.