HOW TO - Paint a Faux CHROME Finish on Your Props - TUTORIAL

A real, metal plated chrome finish can be an expensive process for prop making. In this tutorial, Bill shows how to achieve a faux chrome metal finish using paints and an airbrush.
Tools & Materials
Nitrile Rubber Gloves - Amazon
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Spray Paint Primer - Amazon
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Grease & Wax Remover - Amazon
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Alclad Black Lacquer
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Alclad "High Shine" Finishes
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Alclad Clear Coats
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Basic Airbrush Kit - Amazon
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Respirator & 6001 Filter - Amazon
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Auto Air Gloss Black & Quicksilver Paint
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Mirror Chrome Spray Paint (Purchased at Local Hardware Store)
Epsilon Epoxy
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#PunishedProps

[@punishedprops]

I've been getting a lot of comments about the Alsa Easy Chrome paint. Our pal Harrison over at Volpin Props did a fantastic and thorough review of the stuff: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGmzkHurnbF9j8U

[@DomesticWithAnMD]

Have you tried C1 Metalizer powder? It's another fairly strong (if a bit labor intensive) method with real reflections, that doesn't require an airbrush and is reasonably resilient.

[@christopherdevine8631]

Thanks for this video, I’ve had mixed results using “chrome” paints and the big can with the blown out bottom has given me the best results so far myself. Thanks for doing this comparison!

[@MatthewBowe]

This is my favorite type of your videos. I love them all, but you really do your homework with these materials. THANK YOU!

[@punishedprops]

You're welcome!

[@7daveyatx]

Your video is the most complete tutorial I've seen about metallic and chrome spray. Thanks for sharing this!

[@punishedprops]

Fantastic! So happy to help!

[@jamesbihl]

This is great, thanks for the breakdown of the different options! I’ve had some bad results in the past using rustolium clear coats on their metallic paints. The metallic coat on part I used clear coat on started wrinkling after a couple of minutes (looked like a fingerprint texture). I had to soak the part in brake fluid, sand and repaint.

[@themossprophet6220]

They make some really cool chrome nail polish and nail powders. I'd like to see that same product but for props and other various products, I think that'd be really cool.

[@Mia-yn9ou]

Holly Hamilton i just thought of this! Just coat your whole prop in gel polish and buff in nail powder :D

[@jeffreywarrenpark9149]

Most of those metallic pigments are available separately. So, if you wish, you could mix them into the paint binder of your choice. And, get the best of both worlds!

[@themossprophet6220]

Jeffrey Warren Park it's worth a shot!

[@themossprophet6220]

Some of the nail powders are formulated to only truly work with specific nail products though.

[@themossprophet6220]

Mia it'd be an interesting test for sure! You'd probably need a pretty big curing lamp for the gel polish though lol. Also I'd be curious to see how long the nail polish finish would last.

[@PBProps]

This is a really good, in depth video here, full of extremely useful information that I'm sure everyone will appreciate. I'd like to make a suggestion to you for an extra way of getting a great chrome result that maybe you'd like to try out for yourself and your viewers... if you don't mind, that is. Once you've wet sanded your piece to death and it's got that polished gleam, give it a spray of matt black primer and wet sand as before until this too gleams. Next up, use 2K clear gloss (in can form is easiest) and spray that as a wet coat to the point that it almost runs, just like you did with the enamel. The only difference here is that the shine will out do the enamel by miles and will truly look wet, there's really no comparison between the two, the 2K wins each time in my opinion. Anyway, once this has dried, then you can spray on your Alclad and you'll see a real improvement in the chrome / metallic finish's vibrancy. Finally, Aqua Gloss over that if you want to and hey presto. I'd be interested to see your results and hear your thoughts too.

[@punishedprops]

Catalized finishes really are magical. I usually don't suggest them because most people don't have an HVLP sprayer, but the spray cans of the 2K stuff are great. I have a spare can kicking around so I'll try to remember to give that a go for a chrome finish video next time I use it.

[@pandapropsncostumes]

Hey Bill, great tutorial as usual. Tip: use a tack rag (sticky cloth you can get from automotive supply shops). After you have sanded your parts, clean the part like you did but then give it a wipe with the tack cloth to catch lint and dust etc. This would have removed those specks before you started painting. Good luck!

[@punishedprops]

Good tip! I picked some up the other day so that I'll be ready for my next chrome paint project.

[@pandapropsncostumes]

Cool, looking forward to your next project as always. :)

[@hurtinalbertan3553]

Man that baby Bladerunner blaster gets me every time! Damn you made that thing look gorgeous! Maybe, very strong maybe, my fave build! It’s just too whacky and cute!

[@punishedprops]

Thanks!

[@Emleung55]

You should add a list of some of your frequently used air brush paints/non airbrush paints to your website, and then maybe an example of a project you used it in. I know it would come in super handy for someone like myself who just got an airbrush, but has no clue where to start in terms of actual paints!

[@punishedprops]

That's a pretty good idea. I'll see if I can get my website gnomes on it.

[@Fuffuloo]

I second this idea!

[@UREALERO]

I recently tried a thing called Molotow liquid chrome and i had stunning results in a some patches of a EVA helmet. I knew of this product from those Adam Savage's one day builds on Tested where he build a sword. I would like to watch a really pro like you testing this product.

[@LunerAnimator]

Actually I have a couple cans of Rustoleum and they're not perfect but they're actually a lot more reflective in a Wayne you need to find the one that has like the Chrome cap on those are really good just for a quickie no chrome finish not perfect but it's still really good I can almost see my reflection in it

[@buildersmark]

Bill you need to watch the episode of West Coast Customs the has the Mitsubishi Model T. They have a process that you may want to look into specifically for chromed plastics. It's a primer coat, a base coat, activator, chrome coat, & finish clear coat. In that episode they also did a brass finish.

[@MickeyCuervo36]

One thing I've tried that I like is VHT Plate Finish. I was only able to get it by having O'Reiley's Auto Parts get it for me. Same sort of issues as the Rustoleum Chome though. Super thick, takes forever to cure, and isn't as durable as I'd like. Looks really nice though. I also saw Adam Savage on Tested use Molotow Super Chrome refill ink in an airbrush that looked pretty nice on camera.

[@lasarith2]

This is what I was working on last year, I had some success with Golden GAC -100 multi purpose acrylic polymer, and Mod Podge gloss luster on EVA foam, had to be within 2 inches to see the reflection though.( gave a quite good brushed Titanium look)

[@hunterparis7228]

Adam savage recently used Molotow liquid chrome for a larp sword. It’s a paint pen refill but I would love to know how it compares.

[@punishedprops]

I have one of those pens, but not just the straight up liquid paint. My guess is that it's similar to the alclad lacquers, but I haven't tried it.

[@madmarzon]

I bought a refill after watching Adam's video and just tried it on my Saint-14 build. As good as alclad if not better

[@hunterparis7228]

Mike K thank you! I might invest in some now. Darn internet keeps taking my money.

[@xxhellspawnedxx]

Also, Frank Ippolito from Tested had a video, don't know if it was on the Tested channel or some other one, where he chromed and then weathered a Lich King helmet prop. If you can find it, he achieved some VERY convincing result using only airbrush paints and varnishes.

[@punishedprops]

That's a really amazing process that requires a bunch of special equipment and materials. I'd like to give it a try some day, but it's not in the cards right now.

[@xxhellspawnedxx]

Oh, I meant he rather convincingly faked chrome with an airbrush, using paint and varnish, not actually chrome-plated it :)

[@bluntedbarrel]

xxhellspawnedxx I want to see bill try that method out. Although it looks messy and $$

[@xxhellspawnedxx]

If you check out Tested's video "How To Use Spray-On Chrome on Resin Castings!", it looks like tools-wise, you just need a dual nozzle and a single nozzle airbrush, and the dual nozzle ones aren't prohibitively expensive (300-400 dollars for market-leading brand ones) to get a hold of. The biggest expense seems to be the PChrome solutions, a basic set costing around 600 dollars. On the other hand, as far as I can tell, it contains everything you need to do a very nice faux-chroming. This clearly isn't cost-effective, and only for very high-grade projects.

[@lasarith2]

xxhellspawnedxx it was Tested 🙂

[@hed420]

You should try an Alclad chrome paint . Interested to see how real chrome like it is .

[@punishedprops]

The "chrome" color is very similar to the polished aluminum color that I used.

[@Flash5Cartooning]

FWIW, the best 'rattle can' chrome I've found is from the auto parts store. Dupli-Color's "Universal Chrome" is the one I currently have on hand. Very shiny and dries quickly.

[@punishedprops]

Thanks for the tip!

[@Flash5Cartooning]

My great pleasure.

[@jamesoblivion]

The key with rattlecan chrome finishes is to apply multiple powder coats, then buff when fully dry. This rubs off excess paint, and allows the gloss of the black undercoat to shine through. I was able to get a mirror finish on a plywood knife using this technique. I can indeed see my face in the blade. Yes, the finish is delicate, especially as sealers dull the shine, but for the knife prop I used it on, the various scuffs and scratches that accumulate over time only add weathered character. Not ideal for something you need to remain pristine, but if you want a mirror finish, but without that "like new" appearance, it works.

[@JanTuts]

13:11 You just need to tweak the Metallic and Roughness values of your PBR material a bit, and you're there! :P

[@NiceMongooseProd]

If you apply the Molotow liquid well with airbrush or a simple brush, it actually is almost mirror finish, even without a gloss black basecoat ! It's incredible, you should give it a try !

[@punishedprops]

It's on my list of stuff to try.

[@krisinsaigon]

Thanks for this- I''m trying to make props for a short film and this really helps

[@jackneiner7322]

What movie are you working on?

[@charlesforbin6937]

Molotow chrome pens are AWESOME! You can empty the pen into an airbrush or order a refill and use that...thin with alcohol. There are youtube vids showing how. Bill you should do one...

[@burkeysvids]

Something I've played with (with some success) was using graphite powder over a gloss black. It's fine enough that it sticks to a black gloss, enough to give it that slight chrome sheen. It does turn out quite dark however.

[@jimlightcap7994]

Bill, when using a vacuum formed clear material, try using krylon looking glass spray paint but paint the back of the piece. The contact surface maintains the look of the wet chrome paint without having to touch the clean smooth finished outer surface.

[@punishedprops]

Neat!

[@tom_su66]

Great video! Your totally right, rattle cans kick out way too much paint and cover the nice glossy black to much. I wonder if maybe a better spray can nozzle could produce a finer result.

[@Simoncressey99]

I use humbrol metal coat paints it’s a buffable with a old t-shirt you can get it almost mirror finish and if you need to touch it up the sell a small tin of the paint as well as the spray the only disadvantage of it can’t be airbrushed as it’s a very heavy pigment almost like a metal paste that’s why they sell a spray paint one you could decant some of the spray paint but that would be a paint in the ass to clean as I tried to remove the sift after it’s set and it won’t shift anything that would shift the stuff would melt the plastic

[@wrightexe1]

Can you paint Google with chrome?

[@MiggyManMike]

That was wonderfully awful :p

[@punishedprops]

Zing!

[@edmundschwartzadder5360]

Google is trying to Chrome everything.

[@briw4647]

I advise you to try molotow liquid chrome. buy a refil tube and you get loads of paint. can airbrush it as it is, needs no thinning. it does take a while to dry and harden though, approx. 5 days until really dry. but the results are superb

[@PrimalEdge]

takes me back to when I used to work in an auto body shop. very similar process... great video 👍

[@punishedprops]

Thanks!

[@FoxedWorks]

I'm really enjoying these little short videos, there like revision notes from your project ones and longer ones, really good style for quick reference. Keep enjoying and producing, oh and Happy New Year Bill and Brittany.

[@punishedprops]

Thanks Daniel!

[@sublimationman]

Have you seen Alsa Easy Chrome? It can be sprayed or even brushed on over black and in a minute or two becomes mirror quality chrome, yes, you can actually see yourself in it. But it's not cheap though probably a lot cheaper than sending something out to be chromed.

[@punishedprops]

It is quite expensive and from what I've heard the results aren't as great as their promo videos would have you believe.

[@sublimationman]

Good to know. I've only seen 2 videos on it and both made it "look" perfect.

[@trebledroid]

I think a while back on an old video you mentioned something about Pledge Future Floor Wax or Pledge Floor Care used to clear coat metal to get a decent shine. Maybe worth a try.

[@punishedprops]

You know what, I bought some, but I haven't tried it yet.

[@H3XIUS]

There's a signmaker spray called frog juice that is a very good and UV protectant clear coat you might want to check out. It's even foam safe.

[@btrain2385]

Pro tip for reducing dust/lint in your paint, use a "tack rag" to essentially dust your part immediately before paint. These are available through autobody suppliers. Also, plastic parts are especially susceptible to static electricity which attracts dust. Cleaning with denatured alcohol and grounding your part to earth help alot.

[@punishedprops]

Good tip! I was at the hardware store yesterday and I picked some up. I'll give them a go the next time I do a paint job like this. =D

[@johnson9195]

Thank you for taking the time to create this. Great information.

[@punishedprops]

Thank YOU for taking the time to watch it!

[@gotmilk1245678910]

I swear everytime i need to know something specific you guys post a video about it within like a month

[@punishedprops]

That's just how good we are! =D

[@shadowheart43]

aqua gloss is amazing and super easy to apply !

[@punishedprops]

Isn't it magic?

[@NochSoEinKaddiFan]

I think when I am going for a high shine I would like the auto-air colours or the "chrome" rattle can better, the latter might even be my favourite judging solely by appearance. And of course I learned a little somehting, thanks for the video :)

[@tgxperience]

When you rattle can chrome you have to put a lot of distance between you and the target. Like 20-30" vs standard 15". The downside is you have to be cognizant of ambient temperature or it will glob when you spray because it dries and coagulates a bit before hitting the surface at that distance. Light quick movements ot sort of just fog it on. I leave some of the black as you do to enhance the chrome effect.

[@karlmills4848]

I have used a chrome spray finish and it has come out pretty good thh

[@almagill]

Useful mini-tutorial, learned a lot. I am wondering though, what would happen if you used a matt undercoat or used colours other than black?

[@punishedprops]

I've heard that people like to use red under shiny gold paints to make them look more vibrant.

[@almagill]

Punished Props True, I use different shades of red under gold leaf / gilding metal. Changes the tone of the gold quite a bit

[@phillipstokes8496]

I would not recommend using on matt base. I did test pieces with matt, semi, and gloss and it works best with gloss and comes out looking like normal metallic if used on matt base.

[@jasontodd9]

I've seen people who got a pretty nice chrome shine and a little less dark when using a gloss blue instead of black undercoat.

[@Collin326C]

chrome is cool in some instances but, especially if you're working with aluminum, try to sand to an insanely high grit then polish. also a nice finish

[@BRAD-ROTT]

Cool video bro! You think it's possible to turn chrome a silicone prop?

[@MakeBrooklyn]

Great info Bill. clearly this is an area where you really shine!

[@punishedprops]

I see what you did there. =)

[@TheTributeBandSpirit]

I'm a little late to the party here, but I just wanted to point out that I have used the Rustoleum "bright finish" paint you used there with AMAZING results. Literally mirror like. Requires multiple heavy coats of gloss black primer behind it and a few coats of the bright finish paint.

[@punishedprops]

It's really interesting how doing heavy coats AND allowing chrome to dry for a long time can make such a huge difference!

[@TheTributeBandSpirit]

Punished Props Academy for sure. I’m about to play with maltow with an airbrush for the first time though. I’m excited to see the difference between the two

[@TheTributeBandSpirit]

Molotow*

[@coryjamescooper]

Your videos are so informative and thorough. Thank you so much.

[@punishedprops]

You're welcome!

[@TheGoat257]

Have you seen Infosmercial's video on electroplating? He gets a pretty nice nickel coat on his phasma helmet, much harder technique than using paints but looks quite nice .

[@cavebearstudio6517]

You mentioned that your metallic lacquer finish chips away. I had a job color matching lacquer paints for furniture makers and cabinet shops. I had to go up to ML Campbell headquarters up in Canada for training, so I know a bit about lacquers. You should take a scotch brite pad (they’re available at Lowe’s and Home Depot- essentially the same kind of material on the back of a sponge/scrubby combo) and lightly scuff down your gloss black coat of lacquer to an almost matte finish before spraying your metallic lacquer. You’ll get better adhesion that way. Then if the metallic isn’t quite glossy enough you can scuff that lightly and spray a gloss clear coat. As a rule of thumb gloss doesn’t want to adhere to gloss after curing out. You can usually do multiple coats before all of the solvent completely evaporates, but after that your going to want to let your layers cure and then scuff between coats. Hope that helps!

[@punishedprops]

Great tips, thanks for sharing. =D

[@cavebearstudio6517]

Punished Props- Let me know if they help! I’m getting ready to make some cast foam props. They’re for haunted house props so they don’t have to look that metallic, but it’s always nice to know how to do it if you have to!

[@ytfpv2627]

If you are looking for other metallic colors similar to Alclad, but water based (Acrylic), you should have a look at the Vallejo metal color line. Helas, they dont have a really good looking chrome, but lots of steel, aluminium, copper, gun metal, etc.

[@dlcoflowre4966]

Hello I'm chokri from Algeria I saw the video was good for me I benefited from it, thank you for choosing this video. I have a query that I want to know about nickel chromium components and ratios of materials.

[@drakecooley4776]

another tip for making it shiny is once the paint is fully cured, use a little buffing compound and a polishing wheel and it will bring a brilliant shine to it

[@demofactory]

Thanks for the great video!!! Demonstrations, and comparisons in one stop!!!!! Love your channel. I've learned a lot from you. Take care, and happy New Year!!!

[@richardtripp4308]

Thanks Bill for the video. Very informative and certainly very useful. Keep em coming!

[@punishedprops]

You're welcome.

[@tb9187]

Depending on the material underneath, I wonder how mirroring or slivering chemicals would work. I know it’s possible to do so and, quite literally, end up with a mirror finish. Plastics, glass, etc. all work but have to be *super* clean. It may also be as cost prohibitive as chroming, but I have never looked into getting something chrome played, so I am not certain.

[@bigguy78246]

I wonder if you buff the clear coat if that would help bring a bit of the shine back.

[@KRGraphicsCG]

Interesting I am seeing this video now as I'm painting my cosplay prop, and I'm using Alclad lacquers (which are AWESOME and super easy to use). I almost bought the gloss black base, until I found out that the Aqua Gloss is very forgiving when sprayed heavily. Using pale gold and it's not shiny enough...two coats of Gloss should work

[@punishedprops]

Glad the timing worked out!

[@KRGraphicsCG]

@@punishedprops Sure did😊. Should be done by Tuesday on my first prop. Had to do 3-4 coats of Aqua Gloss for the aluminium

[@ABrokenSociety]

The Krylon Chrome spray is amazing.

[@mrsfgogo09]

The smiley face over the Stanley measuring tape kills me

[@punishedprops]

;)

[@greyjackal]

Loving this channel so far - have you done anything, or recommend someone, for using an airbrush in general? I've done ok, but I'm wondering if there are specific techniques or tips that could help.

[@punishedprops]

Here's some basics on airbrushes: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y3nbd32CjNmfi6M

[@greyjackal]

Aha - I'm clearly blind :D Ta muchly

[@JoannaPiancastelli]

I wonder if you could use something like chrome nail powder for this. It might be tedious over a large area, but for small patches you can get a very reflective mirror finish.

[@punishedprops]

That sounds pretty neat!

[@VertVixenStudios]

Thank you so much for making this!!!!! Wish i had known these things for arthas LOL! Thank you so much for doing all these tests!

[@punishedprops]

You're most welcome. I'm working on a 2nd chrome paint video with even more examples.

[@VocaSky]

I got a pretty decent chromey finish with a rattle can, by priming first with several layers of PVA glue and then using the can.

[@punishedprops]

Ooh nice!

[@MDigitalProductions]

Yes ! I've been waiting for you to do a video about this style of finish ! I've definitely learned alot today !

[@punishedprops]

YAY!

[@anderschr90]

Aluminum foil tape can also be a good option, if you have flat surfaces

[@josuelservin2409]

This!

[@punishedprops]

Oh yeah, for sure.

[@lasarith2]

Anders Christiansen I bought some, getting it completely flat is a skill I haven’t mastered yet lol.

[@3Xnc]

I use the rattle can Chrome as a base coat for my candy paint colors then clear over that. And as for it sticking better, i use adhesion promoter for plastic and let it sit then paint the chrome and leave alone for a day

[@punishedprops]

Great tips all around, thanks for sharing! =D

[@kaitripician7487]

Great video, will keep this in mind for an upcoming sword project I'm helping a friend with... also, did I notice a white lotus tile in the background?

[@punishedprops]

Why yes, you did!

[@xxhellspawnedxx]

I've only seen it at work, never used it, but... What about using a primer with microfiller in it (like the ones Alclad have)? Wouldn't that smooth out the texturing rather well?

[@punishedprops]

I've never tried microfillers, I'll have to do some research.

[@kaisnyker]

the rusto chrome will dry to be fairly durable much like the airbrushed ones just allow it to dry for a day and then take it inside the house for a day and it'll set up hard as nails. reason you let it dry in the shop for a day is the smell of spray paint while its curing. now if the smell doesn't bother then you can take it in the house and cut the dry time in half. still the airbrushed ones would take far less time. but now you know for anyone who decides the spray can route is the way they want to go. also yes DO NOT apply a clear coat to the spray can ones. just something in the chrome ones that don't agree with the clears. believe me ive tried every brand and every combo. #justpaint1 keep creating and always wear your mask when using sprayed paints even air brushed stuff. safety first =)

[@TheCityInk]

You should try Spaz Stix Ultimate Mirror Chrome and VHT Plate Finish Chrome also.

[@RustIndustries1]

Hey Bill, I noticed you have a paint gun in your video, do you have lots of experience with paint guns? if so i would be really interested in seeing a video about them as i have just purchased my very first paint gun and i'm still new to all the details.

[@punishedprops]

I do not. I only really use that thing when I'm spraying Featherfill.

[@RustIndustries1]

Oh ok, they seem super handy though, thank you for the reply!

[@ethansdad3d]

Great video. Where can we send our items out to get the real chrome plating?

[@punishedprops]

You'd have to do some research on that, as it depends on your area!

[@zns72]

Maybe place a thin layer of wax and then buff it to a high shine to seal it. Renaissance high crystalline wax might work.

[@MrThamus]

try rub graphite powder with soft cardboard, its give nice shine. Paints 2 layers warnish and let dry, then try graphite powder.

[@discreetdesign2668]

This video was awesome and answered a lot of questions thank you, however there is some sort of spray paint I forget the name of but it's meant for spraying the reverse side of glass or clear plastic to make DIY mirrors would it be possible to cast a clear prop that you would have access to the back side and possibly still get that mirror finish much like your button? Love the channel keep up the good work

[@punishedprops]

That's definitely possible. It's how people make chromed visors. That would take a lot of planning to get a perfect finish on a clear cast or vacuum formed plastic, but I guess it's possible.

[@johnkelley9877]

Thanks for the tutorial! That is some really useful information.

[@Cluless02]

Hey, looks better than chrome! Satin always beats chrome any day!!

[@slagondrayer447]

Must have been reading my search history, because I was just looking this up yesterday! I have a chrome warhammer to make. Punished Props to the rescue!

[@punishedprops]

Huzzah!

[@mattiasangelo]

Just curious. Have you tried high gloss enamel or high gloss acrylic finishes/mediums? I see the lacquer and other clear coats here, but not those. I find some of the art grade stuff isn’t too terribly expensive, and I’ve had some insanely smooth and glossy finishes come out of it. I’ve never done a true chrome coat, but I do textured metal (looks almost galvanized with a lot of depth to the color and shine). I actually use a flat back base then use a tamping/ dusting method for a deep nickel/gunmetal color followed by a bright silver with the same technique. A few spritzes or brushes (depending on which I use) gives a crazy high gloss as long as the paint is fully cured first. I can tone it back a bit or dust on some more flat black to pull spots back down for weathering. For brass, it’s just flat black with a good covering of antique gold and the same finishing technique. Copper, again, is a layering of antique and bright. ...I tend to do more distressed metals, so I’ve never looked for mirror finishes, but this is usually enough to throw a significant amount of reflective light back to be convincing. I have to stress cure times, though. Acrylic paints take a few days to fully lose their moisture. If any is left, it will dull even the glossiest of finishes or make it cloud in spots. It’s best to put them aside 2-3 days or a week to be safe and come back to finish them. I work in mache, wood, foam, and thermoplastic, and people have commented it’s nearly impossible to tell which is which or that much of it isn’t real-even when I have working mechanical pieces made of real metal next to them. It’s cheap paint for the most part too-folk art craft paint. Sounds crazy, but most of their metallics have very fine particles-nearly more pearlescent than most of the gritty or matte things offered in cheap paints-and they level really well if you don’t have access to more expensive paints. Since I brought up mache, I’ve got another fun project if you want to give it a go. If you make a clay from pulp (check out ultimate paper mache smooth clay), it’s really easy to finish like wood. You can make branches, staves, etc, and simply finish them with a hand rasp and the wood stain of your choice. You just have to make sure to keep a clean rag or paper towel in hand to pick the stain back up if you don’t want it as dark as it goes because the mache will absorb it fast. The stain sets into the grooves you put in, so they’re naturally darker and stand out immediately with no further effort. Finish it with an enamel or acrylic of your choice for shine level, and voila!

[@punishedprops]

Our employee has fiddled with enamels a little bit but we haven't. Thanks for all the info!

[@mattiasangelo]

Punished Props Academy any time! Thanks for your videos! They’ve given me plenty of ideas for future projects :)

[@PearlJam2k6]

A small tidbit i've learnt from KayPike, she use automotive chrome tape for her N52 Wonder Woman on her chest eagle. By my guess it wouldnt work for very curved areas but for anything flat it could work quite well looking at her work

[@JebusFlynt]

I haven’t done it yet myself but I was going to try using the mirror finish rattle can to go for the chrome look. Have you tried that before?

[@punishedprops]

The rattle can I used in this video is labeled as "mirror chrome". I'm not sure specifically which rattle can you're going to try. They vary a bit depending on the brand.

[@GothiczHouseOfKustomz]

Supposed to shoot at an angle, and spray till it starts to gloss up, use Dupli color spray chrome, I can get a mirror finish using it, tho as for durability, no so much, also with alclad, it needs more then one coat, also clear coat before you use the black base, the same with Spaz stix chrome set up.....

[@briandiadem]

Check out Molotow Liquid Chrome. Guys that do screen accurate Kylo Ren helmets have had great results with spraying it through an airbrush.

[@robertmorris2573]

Hi what’s up. While watching your tutorial on the different paints I noticed two different bottles of glue. Blue and green tip. Can you please do a small tutorial on the different glues. If you already did please let me know. Thank you.

[@punishedprops]

The green bottle is super glue remover. I have a bunch more info in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bXXadHiLitygras

[@amandasnider2644]

Hi, I'm really new to prop making and I recently took a dollar store gun, carved and engraved it and added new grips by removing the plastic then filling it with plastimake pellet plastic then multiple coats of pearly nail polish to make it look like mother of pearl. For the rest of the gun I sanded it severely then sprayed two coats of Dupli-color Instant chrome finish spray paint and it looked really realistic! It was only $15. However, I was heartbroken to learn that when I handled it (after two days of drying) and the natural oils of my hands somehow dulled the shine and it darkened. I tried a clear coat on top of the scrap plastic that I sprayed first with the chrome but it completely dulled and got darker with no shine.

[@amandasnider2644]

I'd love to send you a picture of my prop if you are interested and may have some suggestions.

[@punishedprops]

I found the same thing happens with the spray paint chrome that I used. I think that's just the nature of those rattle can chromes. I don't know how to protect it *and* keep that high shine.

[@Riceball01]

I wonder, would a wax, like the kind used to protect sword blades from skin oils, work? I say this because sword blades can get discolored if oils from skin are allowed to sit on the blade for too long and people apply special waxes that help protect the blade from the oils. Since the chrome paint also darkens/discolors from skin oil it may be because of metallic content in the paint, if so, then the wax should work.

[@bigtgamer1]

I know this is older but I just found your page, you should try powdered graphite and seal it with pledge floor wax 👌

[@richcartwright889]

Have you tried drying quickly with a heat gun? I got slightly better results when I tried it.

[@punishedprops]

I usually do that when I'm impatient. I didn't try that with this test.

[@elvishmaster44]

Hey Punished Props, great video! I have a question, what if you are using a prop that needs to be a bit flexible, like a bracer, that should look metallic from afar but might be made of something like pleather. What do you recommend to use so that the paint doesn't crack or crease?

[@punishedprops]

I really like Angelus leather paints for things like that.

[@jibranyar5977]

Bill for you dust problem you should build a compact spray booth like what Bob over at I like to make stuff built

[@Dishyg]

Jibran Yar he has one. He said in this video that it was being occupied

[@punishedprops]

That is a great idea. I'm planning on it.

[@jibranyar5977]

Punished Props awesome!! Future build video?!?!

[@jibranyar5977]

thanks for letting me know i didn't hear that in bills vid

[@jcgardeaa]

Hey Bill, Did you try polishing or sanding any of the paints? I wonder what the results would be?

[@punishedprops]

I did not. I've heard that the lacquers can benefit from a buffing with cloth. I'll give that a go next time I try these paints.

[@Vinnero0]

Rust Oleum (American Accents Ultra Cover 2X) makes a bright gold and silver that does pretty good, not as good as an airbrush but much better then there regular metallic.

[@kenny241100]

How would you go about a high shine gold? Like the finish (similar) to Thomas' helmet from Daft Punk?

[@punishedprops]

Similar process. You'll want to make sure your surface is SUPER smooth, apply a HIGH gloss black paint, then a quality metallic gold - I personally like Alclad II lacquers

[@Nanpa0]

You can Polish the clear coat to give it a high shine.

[@Isrebetv]

Have you think about using the nail powders that nail tech use to make chrome nails? It may work even when I think it is not that durable

[@punishedprops]

I have not. That's a deep rabbit hole! =D

[@pixl3l]

But the main difference when you look at all 4 at the same time has to be thickness, the two applied with the airbrush are so thin you get the shine from the black undercoat that gives depth.

[@nixland]

Awesome!Thanks a lot. Yes, I had similar problem using can chrome spray paint similar to rostoleum. It never dry, always get residue everytime I touch or gently wipe the surface. I never use airbrush, and interested to try, but is airbrush too small for painting sword?

[@punishedprops]

Different airbrushes have different spray diameters. Some airbrushes are designed for full coverage while others are intended for detail work - it's worth looking into what an airbrush does before buying if you have a specific need in mind.

[@totalanimalsoup]

I'm curious if chrome coloured mirror finish nail powder would work for this? You apply it over black nail polish and then buff it with a cloth and it looks just like chrome, if wonder if would work the same on top of a black paint? Its really expensive though, so maybe if it did work it would be more ideal for smaller details and dainty bits

[@punishedprops]

I'm not sure, I haven't tried anything with nail polish.

[@bigboibunz]

What about if you vapor smoothed a print? Would that make things quicker? Just a thought

[@kniffin719]

Not sure if it will work but flex seal makes a super smooth surface usually(Especially when from the paint can and not the spray can). I wonder how any of these would look on a surface that smooth?

[@punishedprops]

It would depend on how flexible the fully dried paint is.