Thanks Builder Anne!

I really wanna know what triangle cups those are! i can't find them anywhere

FWIW I bought a variable power supply (with digital voltage and amp readings) to do my testing so I don’t have to muck w batteries until late in the game. For me an excellent investment!

Pressure pot or vacuum pot? I want one, smaller though.

I know this is an old video but I'm just watching it I think that toothpick that you don't know what it's for was for the decals because not everybody has can do that with one of those exact erasers I think that's what the toothpick was for was the place the stickers and decals

My kit came in today, so my adventure is about to start. Your build tool looks soooo amazing! I hope these prints aren't too ambitious for someone with (not even) 1 week of 3d printing experience lol. Thanks for all the info, helps a lot! I can't wait to build myself a personal teleporter!

Hello!, I wouldn't be finding the plans of the mask to make the pepakura, where is it?

I skipped a little too far..... I needed more context 29:49 😂

Or Serge projector

Obsessed with this build and for only $10 😮😮 I haven't watched this to full detail yet but would it be possible for someone to tweak their build just enough that those fake spring load bullets would fire?? They just need the hammer to be able to hit the little plastic plunger on the back.

lol all good brother I dont even mention all my unseen mistakes lolol

Amazing❤

*Knock knock* who´s there? cargo. Cargo who? car-go-beep-beep. Loving this build, im looking forward to see more of those bigger projects and maybe diffrent "big-head-cars"

“Mr T” It doesn’t make a clever pun with Elmo, but when I think of an Elmo projector I am transported right back in time to the 3rd grade teacher Mr Tchausney, referred to as Mr T by his students (and he loved to say he pitied the fool). Really wonderful man and beloved educator who put his heart and soul into teaching until the end.

Personally, I wouldn't show the machine or how it works. People come in interested to watch the material about shaping, not to see only your face for 9/10 of the film!

I use rivet stems as hinge pivots whenever I have to make hinges for a project! Aluminium is super easy to cut+shape but the thickness of the stems means it's still sturdy in that use! I have also used rivet stems to make hammered rivets! It's a pain in the butt but it works decently well lol. Not as well as brass, due to brass being harder, but the things I've rivetted with them are not meant to see a lot of wear that might cause shearing. It's a useful part. For hinge pins, you do have to gently file the texture left from popping the rivet, but that's something that can be done on the fly and won't be necessary for every project you use them on.

NICE!

The finish for Bender should correspond with the car: if the car is realistic then Bender should be similar; but perhaps not super glossy as there aren't specular highlights illustrated, so either go down the middle with satin or mimic dusty old metal.

Being cosplaying monsters since 2013 and this tutorial is so effing useful 🔥🔥🔥👑 also bill at 8:00 🐬🐬🐬😂

Haha, happens to me every time when I'm making costumes. 5% sewing, 10% cutting, 35% waiting until the hot glue dries, 50% looking at everything fit together when pinned, then looking at it again when sewn and at every time just gushing over it.

me: wears headphones so I don't hear my printer while watching this video punished props: has printer running in background

It really needs a Transformers name

I forgot those were a thing lol we'd use them all the time in my primary school

I NEED I NEED I NEED IT

JE LE VEUT JE LE VEUTT JE LE VEUT JE LE VEUT

pourriez vous m''en fabriquez un car j'en veut un a tout pris svp dites moi votre prix

est ce posssible de le faire en HPA pour L'airsoft avec une nuke qui libere des billes de 6mm a l'impact?

Love the in depth sanding video. Would love to see a shiny car body finish. I think Bender should be a flat metal, not too 'polished" shiny, but like a raw steel colour 🙂

Hi there, fursuit maker here! Sorry to reply to a less-than-recent video (not sure if this'll be seen lol), but having done a few dragon tails I can definitely say that getting decent sway out of a longer tail is surprisingly difficult, so well done! I actually tried that same blog pattern several years ago but wasn't entirely happy with the motion and the tail's tendency to lay over to one side or the other instead of hang in a normally straight back position. Over the years I've come up with my own basic design based somewhat on Neffertity's Super Motion tail design (definitely recommend her videos and templates). Here are a few ideas I'd recommend if you might have interest in making more tails in the future: -Ditch the ABS plastic (or any rigid core material) entirely. ABS is fairly light, but in this case it just adds extra weight and makes the motion more stiff and robotic without really providing any benefit. -Instead of using multiple segments, I personally think it's better to go with one large piece of upholstery foam (or several pieces glued together) cut into the desired tail shape. Then using that turkey carver cut V grooves along the sides (wider at the base where the tail is thickest, tapering thinner till you're just doing straight cuts at the end) roughly 3/4 of the way to the middle. Also I tend to do some straight cuts along the tops and bottoms of curves so it can have a bit of vertical bounce as well. -Using one piece of foam rather than segments eliminates a lot of the sag from the middle connecting cloth, but if it's a larger and heavier tail I do like to add strips of elastic glued to the foam that span two or three of the motion cuts on the top and sides, just at the main motion points (tail base, tip, and curves). That helps keep the tail from drooping especially as the foam ages. -For dragons and other creatures where a smooth surface is important, I've had good success using a sleeve of neoprene scuba fabric over the upholstery foam instead of the elastic strips. That does add a decent amount of weight and you have to be careful not to pull it taut or the tail will have a hard time swaying (when doing this I have found that adding some extra weight to the tail tip with some ball-bearings or similar helps maintain the motion), but I find that it really helps keep bumps and inconsistencies from the upholstery foam from showing through a short-pile or shear outer sleeve. Also this method can help the tail maintain its overall form. -For the attachment point, I've found two options that seem to work best to keep the base of the tail in place so that it doesn't pull away from the belt and your back (which causes a lot of that droop, and tends to make the tail either lay over to one side entirely or at least favor swaying to one side when worn): 1) If the base of the tail is not meant to be visible and can be entirely hidden under clothes or in a suit, I like to attach the tail a backplate of a reasonably stiff material like medium-thick EVA foam (the heavier the tail, the thicker the foam--very heavy tails get a rigid core such as ABS added to the plate). I've usually made the backplate about 2x the width of the tail itself, and then either use some reinforcement to add belt attachment points to the sides of the plate. For very heavy tails I typically add attachment points to the top of the plate for suspenders. The plate helps distribute the weight of the tail to make it more comfortable to wear while also more firmly anchoring the base of the tail to your back for less droop and more natural motion! 2) If the base of the tail is meant to be somewhat visible, instead of the larger backplate I typically cut two pieces of 10mm EVA foam to match the shape of the base of the tail (or one piece of 6mm and one piece of 10mm if size is an issue). I contact cement the two pieces of EVA together but leave a gap large enough to slip a belt through roughly an inch from the top of the tail, and then mount the tail as firmly as possible to the EVA base. This way the connection point stays mostly hidden but the stiffened base and integrated belt slot help keep the tail in the right place at your back. I hope that might help (and doesn't come across as too preachy x.x), love all of your videos and the Foamsmith books!

Boys and toys.. YESSSSS

Myst and Riven are amazing in VR. When I played them I got this feeling that this is the way they were always intended to be played. They were the same as I played in the 90s, but at the same time so much more. Amazing experience.

Just like the cardboard tube in the center of wrapping paper. Must make noise into tube.

Don't ever hit anything with a metal tube! No, not because I think thats unnecessary aggressive, but it dents the tube! Which creates a weak-point where it WILL bend and break just from swing it around. And as I know Peeps on Cons and LARPs, someone will want to hold it, WILL hold it whether they are allowed to or not and WILL swing it at some audience or another… And believe me, you don't want to see a broken metal tube with attached weight flying around a crowed Room That said… Noice Woosh! Makes this Mommy wanna go weeeeeeee xD

Stick go swoosh. Man happy. Day made

Me every time I'm in my shop lmfao Never stop goofing off

Noice!!!

Why baby powder instead of mold release?😳

Why baby powder instead of mold release?😳

I would love to see one of this YT-1300's this size custom made into a center cockpit design. I think all you would need to do is scan it into a 3D printer program then copy paste around how you want it to look?

Call it "the back row nap enabler" Dim light, white noise, everything a body needs.

And it doesn't get so warm that the 3d printed piece is melting again?

It is gratifying to see Americans using the metric system.

I love overhead projectors. Since my time in the military as an instructor, i have always prefered this, over Beamer/Powerpoint

Why not put it in heat ,the oven will work,just like autobody

Optimus Prim-ary school?

Nothing like the classroom lights being turned off with the soft glow of the overhead. The cozy classroom vibes from back in the day were immaculate.

Can I use the same process on my legs?

how about "the light of Zartha", "Lighting McQueen", "Peter Projector". "The Super-Sizer". I love seeing 3D printing being used to keep old things working, everyone needs a 3D printer, or a friend with some CAD skills.

Sticking with the Futurama theme, how about “Lee Light” in honor of Leela.

All I want to do now is pick it up, pick it up, pick it up... With regards to the paint job, I'd be tempted with a flat cell shaded look myself.