How to Paint With Nitrocellulose Lacquer

[@GregBird]

I used to run a finishing shop years ago (in another life). For production runs of mill work, furniture and office fittings (paneling, cabinets, reception desks etc.) we used a synthetic catalyzed lacquer from either CIL (Guardsman I think). It was fantastic stuff... once catalyzed your pot life was about 10 days, so not like an activated 2 or 3 component really hot activator. The best part, it was a high build quick dry product, but it sprayed like a normal nitro lacquer (albeit a bit thicker). The best part, you could go from stain to shading / colour adjusting or fading to sanding sealer to finish coats in a matter of a few hours. I once did a re-spray on my Managers 1980's Fender Strat that turned out amazing with that stuff. 3 or 4 coats of high build sandable primer, 5 or 6 coats of Auto Lacquer (Honda Silver Metallic) and then about 10 coats of high gloss clear. As with lacquer each coat melts into the previous and flows out like glass. Give it a couple of days, and it you could wet sand it and polish it with care. Amazing stuff. Not something I would use for a piano (though I did a few times) it was rugged and beautiful in a 99% sheen. I bet I sprayed my way through 5000 gallons of that stuff (full face and fresh air system in a booth)... and never had an issue. heh It had a lot of pluses over traditional nitro coatings, and only a few negatives. Plus you could use aniline dies and stains under and in it to tone it. Mohawk stains being my favorite (or Pierce and Stephens). Great channel BTW, informative and interesting to follow along. Subscribed! Nice work.

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Greg. I use some pre-cat lacquer. Need to get my hands on some good catalyzed stuff one of these days.

[@markdayneowalla]

I like the holder jig. I'm going to build something like that. PVC pipe and assorted fittings.

[@robinhoodwasasocialist.1401]

I’m a fan of shellac. Non toxic once dry, can be thinned with 190 proof alcohol so you don’t have to use toxic methylated denatured alcohol, doesn’t yellow over time, doesn’t need to be sanded between coats, comes from a renewable resource. Good stuff

[@BradAngove]

Unfortunately it isn’t particularly durable, but I’m also a fan nonetheless.

[@robinhoodwasasocialist.1401]

Brad Angove yeah, definitely not durable, but up until now I’ve only used it on the drums I build and decorative furniture that doesn’t get touched/handled often.

[@n84434]

Great video series! I just picked up a 69 EB-0 and have stripped it down to refinish. Someone at some point stripped the guitar and sprayed a very poor coat of clear enamel on it, which thankfully has been easy to clean off. I'll probably buy the Stewmac spray cans of Red Tint and White sealer, then cover it with gloss clear Nitro. Thanks again!

[@BradAngove]

Thanks for watching. I hope your project goes well.

[@albertveli]

Cool. Nitro is perfect for retrophiles. Btw, I finished the guitar I wrote about earlier for my son. Cheated by buying a cheap finished Indonesia Squier (with a nice body paintjob) and just changed the pickups to Kirk Hammet signature EMG and did some work on the frets, following your tutorials to make it play smoother. Like new. But I'm going to do a bass kit for myself, maybe using this complicated and old-school nitro paint starting next month. Btw, after the finish is done and the truss rod setup, string height and intonation is done and the fretboard is oiled GHS fast fret works magic for the strings. I don't know how but it works.

[@BradAngove]

I’ve heard good things about GHS. I’d like to try some of their stuff out.

[@charliebabbit4325]

I’d like to make a sunburst strat model, and make a tweed amp kit and sunburst the cab. I think it would be cool to make the opposite of a squire started kit, zeph pickups, top lvl pots choice lumber, locking tuners, etc and a handwired matching cab, upper middle class starter kit, lol, but totally serious. I always wanted to make a matching kit

[@projectmonk9673]

Do you have a video on how you painted that beautiful transparent red?

[@BradAngove]

My 2020 great guitar buildoff video involves the same color and method essentially if you want to see it.

[@TheEpeli89]

Hey Brad! I'm a rookie and getting my first built Les Paul copy soon ready for finishing and still wondering the correct working order. Is the next procedure right: 1. Sanding 2. Staining the mahogany body and neck 3. Filling mahogany grain with Wudfil Easystain grain filler 4. Painting the maple top to copper top look 5. Sealer 6. Clear coats I'll be using nitrocellulose laquer for clear coats and spray cans for painting the top if I'm able to get suitable copper paint from automotive paint shop. Thanks for advises beforehand!

[@BradAngove]

You’ll want to stain after doing the grain filler.

[@eemelijarvinen3664]

Brad Angove thank you very much for the tip👍I was wondering those steps for a long time so good to know. I can share a picture when the guitar is ready 😎

[@PicksPaints]

Thanks Brad. Another great and informative video. Started spraying my last six coats last night. 2 today and 2 tomorrow to go before a month of curing. Can't wait!

[@BradAngove]

Awesome. How’s it looking?

[@PicksPaints]

I had a few pits from the project stands in the back of the body. So I had to drop fill those. I had a couple that were pretty deep, so it's taking several rounds of drop filling to get those completely filled. Other than that, it's looking pretty great. I'm very impressed with the performance of the Behlen products and how well it's turning out. I give you a big nod for all the guidance! And a big Thank you for the videos and how-to's! Keep 'em coming!

[@BradAngove]

I’m glad to hear it’s going well in general. The Behlen stuff is pretty reliable, which of course makes things a bit easier.

[@charliebabbit4325]

Question. Please don’t think I’m being rude, I know it varies from gun to gun, but, with your Warwick, it seemed like it was orange peeling a bit, I know you’ll lose that in buff, but maybe I missed it, what psi would you use/ ratio, etc. also what distance would you recommend for gun placement and lastly if you wanted to do a sunburst, could you maybe do a video on that. Ty

[@BradAngove]

I like to use about 26 psi. My gun distance depends on how fast Im spraying. I’ve got a few videos in sunbursts actually. Check out my more recent stuff.

[@kenalverson9755]

Hey Brad. I stumbled across your channel. I’ve have learned a lot for your videos. Thanks for helping me and others out. It’s all good stuff.

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Ken.

[@GL64]

Cool finish. Nice work!

[@BradAngove]

Thank you.

[@cam-inf-4w5]

Great vid you put it on way heavier than i thought you would in my head. Ik this sounds crazy but could you buff a lacquer on with a super soft cloth or sponge and be buffing it as its drying just with the cloth so in my head that would get rid of streaks or what if you poured the lacquer in a thin metal or plastic box, dipped it, then poured the rest back in the can and hang the guitar vertical and diagonal where the neck joint is pointed down so the drip gets on your pole and there isnt a spot of a drip hanging on the guitar? Would you have to make it a very thin mix so too much doesnt cling on at once?

[@BradAngove]

There are wiping lacquers. I’m not entirely sure how you would mix one. You’d probably just want to buy one designed for that.

[@loganme]

Hey Brad, what besides a down and 2x piece of wood to screw into the neck pocket would I need to buy at the hardware store to recreate that "painting stand" you have going? Love how you can rotate it while you're painting!

[@BradAngove]

Hi logan, if you look up "Brad Angove Spray Stand" on youtube you will find an old video where I did a run through on what it is. You can change out the able for an umbrella stand or something similar. Many of my viewers have done it.

[@loganme]

@@BradAngove thanks so much, Brad!

[@onemanband75to82]

thanks brad i'm going to refinish the top on my pearl white k.yairi dy-88 to a light blue pearl base with blue/purple accent, i dd my panting fixing body parts in a ford part depot -- shooting primer i've painted several guitar i've built but never used this type lacquer thanks for the demo

[@BradAngove]

Thanks for watching

[@markgrimm3564]

brad is it better to use a HVLP turbine and gun system do to the warm air being expelled with the lacquer

[@BradAngove]

I highly doubt it. Seems to me that might create a temperature fluctuation that would promote cracking.

[@jamesdonnelly8888]

Just discovered your channel man, love your stuff. You're the best at what you do!

[@BradAngove]

Thanks buddy

[@brianwarford8312]

Hey, for the one coat of about 3 passes how much mixture do you need? Also, if there is mixture (nitro) left in the gun canister can it be saved for spraying the next day? Cheers!

[@BradAngove]

Not much for one coat. I probably mix about 3 ounces for that. You could save extra mix, yes. It’s not the “best” idea because of possible contaminants, but it works.

[@filipk91]

i bought a cool looking neon blue spray can from motip which is nitro. can i clearcoat it with a 2k? should i use something else to clear coat it? i wanted to put a few layers of phosphorescent paint between color and clear coat. thanks for your videos, i've learned a lot from you!

[@BradAngove]

Normally one would stick with nitro for the clear, but if you let it dry full for a few weeks and scuff sand with 800 grit you should be able to use 2K overtop.

[@chrischoir3594]

Great vid thanks....Why can't you spray in direct sunlight?

[@BradAngove]

Lacquer reacts poorly to that.

[@Demoncleaner78]

Is there a water based lacquer that you recommend? Also tint. Will be spraying a Gibson LP studio with a preval spray system as I don’t have any spray equipment. I’ve tried a few different polyurethanes rub on and rattle can. I’ve sanded both back as they didn’t turn out to my liking. That deep wine color in the video is the exact color I have been after. Thanks.

[@BradAngove]

Crystallac has a water based lacquer system that works really well and has stains/tints. I’ve got a bunch of their stuff in the amazon link in the description.

[@johnpaniccia3802]

Hi....cool channel....I'm refinishing a 63 rele body for a customer, but the guitar has been stripped down but there is some sort of old unoriginal clear coat, is there a good sealer I can apply as a base coat for the lacquer base coats this way I don't run into any problems???

[@BradAngove]

Are you leaving the sealer that’s already on there?

[@johnpaniccia3802]

@@BradAngove I finished it today, sanded to 280, put 2 coats of sealer, then color coat, seems ok

[@randywoolum2648]

Hey Brad, a friend of mine wants me to refinish his old Mexico made Precision bass and relic it. would you recommend using a lacquer guitar finish? Also, would you put a clear coat on it? Or just a few coats of finish, let it cure, then start "aging" it to give it the relic look?

[@BradAngove]

I would definitely use a nitrocellulose lacquer. I would keep it thin, but would still have some clear lacquer involved on top.

[@suhoops1620]

Hi Brad about how long to you wait in between the first 1 to 3 coats on a guitar that has no finish to start, using lacquer

[@BradAngove]

With lacquer on a warm day I spray my 2-3 coats of color a few seconds apart. The sealer that I typically start with I give 10-15 minutes and do 2-3 coats.

[@BuhdaPunk]

What is the optimal temp and humidity when you are letting the finish dry/cure? also hear that sunlight can play a role on lettings them cure in the sun?

[@BradAngove]

Letting things cure in the sun is a bad idea. The optimal curing temp and humidity changes based on the finish, but generally as warm and dry as possible is good.

[@BuhdaPunk]

@@BradAngove I can't say its good here because normally its -4C and humidity is usually high even when its cold. Florida was not too bad because you can dehumidify fairly easy when its 90F out. The best I can do is about 22c at 18% humidity in a closet :) is that within range or am I looking at 4 months cure time.

[@BradAngove]

That’s pretty reasonable

[@hurtlocker1040]

Hi Brad , I was wondering if u some brush art painting on the guitar with oil painting or acrylic. can you still coat it with nitrocellulose lacquer ? would it burn it / eat in ? if so how do I protect art painting when using nitrocellulose lacquer ? Thanks in advance

[@BradAngove]

It depends on the paint type. For acrylic for example I may use an acrylic top coat as a mid-coat, then let that dry fully and sand it before spraying with nitrocellulose lacquer.

[@Synonomous]

Hey, really enjoy the vids and your instructional style. I need to do a small patch on the bout of a classical guitar where the finish was damaged by a bad cleaning choice, lol. I was wondering what size nozzle on your gun. I couldn't seem to find that info. The nozzle on mine is 1.8mm and I've used it with 50/50 deck stain/varsol but wasn't sure what you're using or if there is a real difference between a 1.8mm and, say, a 1.5mm. Thanks for all the great tips!

[@BradAngove]

1.8 is very large. For lacquer I usually use a 1.3, or even a 1 or 0.8 for smaller tougher work.

[@BradAngove]

*touchup (not tougher)

[@Synonomous]

@@BradAngove Thanks for the info!

[@glytch5]

Would you do that many coats of satin vs clear lacquer? I hit my neck with 2 coats of sealer, and 3 coats of satin.. I wasn't planning on going more but shit... should I be? The stuff I used was recommended to sand between coats if you wait past 6 hours... which is a major pain with lacquer for me. I will definitely just be going 2k spray gun next time lol.

[@BradAngove]

That should be enough coats. I try to avoid building up a ton of satin because the additives in it can cause it to get hazy.

[@allendaleguitars.stpetersb4528]

Thanks for the reply Brad. It's just the comment that Billy Corgan sad from Smashing Pumpkins said a different color guitars each individual color of a guitar has a different tone because of its color.

[@BradAngove]

Haha I assume he meant that the way we perceive a guitar’s tone differs because of the way the mind associates what it sees with what it hears. Obviously different colours don’t create a measurable difference, but the mind can work in strange ways.

[@uncleswan3896]

Billy Corgan also guests on Alex Jones show where he compared social justice advocates to the KKK. I mean Alex Jones is his company, You know, the guy that said that putting chemicals in water is "turning the frogs gay" not sure those guys should be considered experts on anything except quackery. Stripes do make guitars run faster. You know, when they grow legs.

[@BradAngove]

I think scratching off some of the paint makes them louder, right?

[@stephenmackey1735]

I have a black squier strat body, looking to use some behlen/colortone products to get a nice sonic blue color, first timer...should i strip the paint via the heat gun tech and seal up the wood with some sanding sealer, etc? Or should i just sand it up without removing the paint and maybe put some primer, etc?

[@BradAngove]

You should be able to get away with just sanding the paint at 600 grit and then painting. If you’re using Behlen, I would start with a coat of their vinyl sealer before moving on to the lacquer.

[@stephenmackey1735]

Cool, sand it at 600 as is, then apply the vinyl sealer, then the color/lacquer? do i sand between the sealer and the color/lacquer? Thanks man!

[@BradAngove]

I would advise waiting three days after the sealer, sanding it smooth to about 800 grit, and then moving on to the lacquer.

[@ethantorres4061]

Would this work with a tinted nitro lacquer if I wanted to do a vintage amber?

[@BradAngove]

Of course

[@UHMIDNIGHT]

Brad, thank you, Sir, for all the paint knowledge you are bestowing on us with your videos. You briefly touch on checking, suggesting that it can be created by decreasing the temperature of the paint. With a nitro pre-polish dry time of around one month, you also mention that shortly after painting is concluded, the checking process can begin. Can you please explain to me when to start the checking process? Is the checking done during the curing month or after polishing, along with what your method is for creating checking? Thank you!

[@BradAngove]

I’m no expert on creating checking. It’s not something that I’ve done, especially not deliberately. The idea though is that it’s formed by paint shrinking, and cold causes paint to shrink. For that reason I would probably paint the guitar, let it dry for about 30 minutes, and then freeze it overnight and see what you end up with. You can also create a checking effect with a scalpel.

[@UHMIDNIGHT]

Interesting method you’ve suggested. I’m definitely interested to see how the nitro would react to cold immediately (30 minutes) after the final coat. I would also be very interested to see how different types of paint (nitro, poly, etc.) react to different environments, along with how fresh paint, versus cured paint, reacts to these changes. Again, very informative videos you’re doing. Thank you!

[@BradAngove]

I can tell you that cured paint, such as polyurethane, won’t react to cold. Nitro lacquer, which doesn’t cure, may still shrink even after it’s fully dry.

[@umokay1991]

Would this kind of guitar finish be drawn on with a paint-pen?

[@BradAngove]

A candy nitrocellulose lacquer finish? I don’t think I’ve ever seen someone draw something like that on.

[@bernard4007]

the guy knows his stuff...thanks for the info!

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Bernard

[@dt2419]

What are your thoughts on clear acrylic automotive finish for putting a high gloss clear finish on guitars? Nitro is a pain to come across in Australia and acrylic clear is in almost every hardware or auto store

[@BradAngove]

Are we talking about actual automotive grade clear, or one part stuff?

[@dt2419]

Brad Angove 2 part real lacquer

[@dannyharris5300]

Brad I was wondering if you could tell me why my nitrocellulose paint coats have cloudy or blush looking areas in the finish. I haven't clear coated yet. I also have another can of nitrocellulose color if needs be. I used Oxford brand royal purple. Is this anything that can be fixed with more paint coats or.....just how do I fix this before clear coat.

[@BradAngove]

Yes, that’s called blushing and it’s humidity trapped under the clear. Mohawk makes a good blush remover. You can also try to carefully take it out using a heat gun (gently). You need that humidity to escape and evaporate.

[@dannyharris5300]

Thanks Brad, I'll try the heat gun

[@ReValveiT_01]

How did places like Fender do it back in the day? Surely they can't have devoted so much time to their finishing. I know those 50s / 60s guitars have a super thin finish, but I wonder how they were able to sand and buff with so little lacquer?

[@BradAngove]

They just sanded and buffed very quickly afterward, and then the finishes cracked after a while.

[@CLOCKWORKLA]

Hey Brad, thanks for the insight. So I'm refinishing my son's fender bass after a impulsive paint job (he's 17) how long do I have to wait to be able to polish it to a high gloss? Also, he's playing the Hollywood Bowl in a week and wants to put it together to play it there. Then break it down again. I got him to wait. What's your thought?

[@BradAngove]

If you used nitro on it you would generally give it a month before the polishing process. If you reassemble it too soon your main risk is leaving dents from the hardware in it and similar durability and hardness related issues.

[@CLOCKWORKLA]

@@BradAngove thanks Brad!

[@moconnor20]

hey Brad, any chance you can do a tv yellow guitar?

[@BradAngove]

Perhaps at some point. I think I already have the paint for it.

[@dylanlee4776]

Hi Brad. quick question... would be super helpful to get your opinion... i bought an 82 ibanez as200 long story short someone sprayed clear LACQUER over the original POLY finish.. they were trying to protect it or something i guess... is there any good way to remove the lacquer only from this vintage guitar during my restoration process? please help!

[@BradAngove]

If it’s lacquer over poly should should be able to take the lacquer off with lacquer thinner. Check out my color over color relic video for a demo.

[@dylanlee4776]

@@BradAngove thanks. what if it turns out to be more poly or another type of clear coat?

[@BradAngove]

It depends on the clear. If it’s polyester the only option is to sand it, which is risky.

[@danacanevaro529]

Lots to learn here. Very informative. i have question about spray guns tho. I recently picked up a Vaper HVLP gun and it seems to work fine except it has a 1mm nozzle and doesent spray very much at a time making it painfully slow and produce bad orange peel. i was using water based clearcoat. It looks like I'm faced with getting a different gun as they dont sell bigger nozzles for this one.. any ideas.

[@BradAngove]

What kind of ideas are you looking for? I agree that something with a larger nozzle would help. Even my favourite mini gun has a 1.2mm nozzle, but I wouldn’t use that for clear.

[@danacanevaro529]

Hi Brad, thanks for the reply. I guess I'm tryin to use the wrong gun. I'll look around for something better.. thanks again.

[@BradAngove]

There’s a link in the description for the Warwick guns I use as well as a discount code for 10% off (applies at checkout) if you’re looking for a decent one.

[@Rick_Cleland]

Can I spray nitrocellulose over "Water Based Wipe On Guitar Finishing Lacquer" from *_Crimson Guitars._* I plan to sunburst stain / dye the guitar with their products and then use their "Finishing Lacquer", but I found that I have a tin of "CLEAR GLOSS Nitrocellulose Guitar Spray Paint" from *_Northwest Guitars_* in my garage and wondered if I could spray that over the top of everything at the very end.

[@BradAngove]

You’ll have to ask Ben from Crimson. I don’t know much about that product.

[@Rick_Cleland]

@@BradAngove Okay.

[@suhoops1620]

i was wondering what pressure you have the gun set at when spraying?

[@BradAngove]

Usually around 26 psi

[@chengliu872]

Is it true that certain types of rubber including those common on guitar stands and racks can cause damage to a nitocellulose finish?

[@BradAngove]

Yes. Over time that can happen, especially with a nitro finish that is relatively new.

[@jonbarwick5946]

YES but I’d say still worth it, having the fortune and misfortune of owning an old nitro strat that got rubber “spots” on the body from my rack.

[@davidtrevor9027]

I left the Capo on the head stock of my Gibson Les Paul for about a month. Found out the hard way when I pulled it off that it pulled off all the Nitrocellulose lacquer clear coat down to the paint. I had a 4 inch by 1/4 inch stripe of missing lacquer on my prized guitar. I think I cried that day. It was a cheap capo (not Kyser) that did it but yes, some rubbers can damage the finish. Fortunately the fix was relatively easy. I bought some Nitro and brushed it on in multiple coats until the height was the same as the surrounding lacquer. When I sanded and buffed it out, you couldn't tell there was ever a problem. Still, I won't put my Capo on the head stock anymore. Good video, and yes, Nitro is easier when a repair is needed.

[@CLOCKWORKLA]

What about foam? What is a better solution?

[@kenalverson9755]

Brad, can you mix color die with the Behlen lacquer to paint your guitar and then cover it with just a clear coat of behlen lacquer after that?

[@BradAngove]

Absolutely.

[@markdesod561]

really actually learn the process!! Finally! Thanx Man!!

[@BradAngove]

Glad you found it helpful.

[@markdesod561]

Is Enduro Precat useable for guitars, or do I have a gallon of syrup hanging around? Ha!

[@BradAngove]

I’ve never used it, so I can’t really say one way or the other. Sorry.

[@exp-eri-mental]

Great vid. I'm going to be attempting a full respray of a body that I have once attempted a few years ago. For some reason the lacquer never fully cured and is always sticky which I hope to completely remove and start a fresh. Any ideas why this is? Is it because in the uk we can only get water based lacquer instead of oil based?

[@BradAngove]

It could be. That stuff requires a bit more time between coats and should be applied in light coats to allow it to dry correctly.

[@exp-eri-mental]

@@BradAngove thank you for the reply. I'll take this into account and give it a go! Your videos have definitely helped alot.

[@ireibarvaz]

Hey great video! it helped me a lot. I've got a question though. How long do I have to wait between coats?

[@BradAngove]

I do a few passes just a few minutes apart (usually 3) and then wait a day before continuing.

[@Matan2222222]

Hey Brad! I'll soon start the color coats on my strat style guitar. Do you recommend using white primer->shoreline gold metallic->candy apple red metallic (All from Oxford) I've read online that on pre cbs and cbs strats, Fender used Inca Silver and Shoreline Gold as a base before the Candy Apple Red application.

[@BradAngove]

Yes, I would use the gold. It makes getting a good red color easier. The vintage method is with silver though.

[@Matan2222222]

@@BradAngove any tips when working with metallic over metallic?

[@BradAngove]

Oh, wait. If you’re using the red metallic you don’t need a gold base. That’s only for actual candy red. The candy red metallic is designed to look like a full candy job, but you can skip the silver or gold base.

[@Matan2222222]

@@BradAngove I think ill Go with Inca Silver and Transparent red from north west guitars. The level of depth is better as ive heard. www.northwestguitars.co.uk/candy-apple-red-nitrocellulose-guitar-paint-kit/

[@BradAngove]

I hope it goes well

[@stevepolychronopoulis]

With regards to your other video about spraying a guitar body with binding: would you do all of the color coats before scraping it off of the binding, then do the clear over the binding, or with multiple coats of tinted lacquer, would you scrape the previous day's color coat before doing the next coat? I'm looking to spray tinted color over a natural-colored archtop that has cream-colored binding, and I want to keep the binding its original color, but I feel like I'd want the clear to cover the binding to avoid the sharp edge where the color stops. Just not sure if it would be too hard to scrape it clean with multiple coats dried over it.

[@BradAngove]

I’d do them all at once as per your first option there.

[@stevepolychronopoulis]

@@BradAngovethanks! I appreciate your videos, keep up the good work.

[@tonysansom]

I've only got a small area to spray so if I did 25/25 mix, would that be okay too?

[@BradAngove]

What’s a 25/25 mix? (My apologies if you were joking, in which case I get it and yes a 25/25 is fine haha)

[@tonysansom]

@@BradAngove Lol Yes, I was messing with you :-D

[@BradAngove]

Excellent

[@LiloUkulele]

Great video! Answered so many questions.

[@BradAngove]

Glad to hear it.

[@casperboo5465]

Good Video Brad Starting To Look Really Good Thanks For Posting Cheers

[@BradAngove]

Cheers. Thanks for watching.

[@thesouthsideshovlerleonard13]

Another dumb question you may have anser to... will automotive acrylic lacquer work with behlin string instrument lacquer? Dont want to mix or buy several bottles to make grey. So body would be done in acrylic and top coat with behlin thanks.

[@BradAngove]

Why wouldn’t you just top coat in acrylic lacquer in those circumstances?

[@oOYoungy93Oo]

Enjoyed the vid. As for a nitrocellulose top coat, what base coat would you use prior to applying a top coat? Is a base coat necessary when using a cellulose top coat? Just going with a black top coat and clear lacquer.

[@BradAngove]

I use nitrocellulose as the base coat as well, and then a sealer underneath. I like Mohawks vinyl sealer.

[@oOYoungy93Oo]

@@BradAngove thanks! So, currently, my steps will be to fill dents/scratches in bare wood, sand smooth, clean dust/debris, spray/coat with sealer, spray with top coat (black) then spray with clear lacquer. Sound good? Sorry, I'm hesitant as it's my first guitar refurb and I want a nice finish, as you do 😁

[@BradAngove]

Yes, that’s the gist of how I would go about it.

[@Arryhall]

I sprayed a guitar with lacquer but I'm wondering now if I shouldn't have used poly instead as it's neon and I don't actually want the yellowing or relicing. Can I go over the lacquer with poly at some point to toughen up the finish or will that totally bugger everything to buggery? Wish I could spray as easily as you though, you make it look so much easier than it is.

[@BradAngove]

You can give it a few weeks to dry (away from sunlight so it won’t yellow prematurely) and then scuff it and coat it in poly. What part of the spraying is giving you trouble? I’m wondering if it’s a difference in practice, or just in equipment.

[@Arryhall]

Brad Angove well, it's been about 8 months so should be dry by now. Lol. My painting always ends up with runs or bits in from somewhere so I have to sand back and recoat which doesn't give me complete coverage so I overspray and get runs and bits in so I have to sand... you make me think it's going to be so easy and every time it's a bloody nightmare of cock ups.

[@BradAngove]

Haha sorry about that. I’ll try to make a mess of one one of these days to temper expectations.

[@cesargonzalez8260]

Can you use nitrocelulose lacquer over rustoleum 2x coverage?

[@BradAngove]

I wouldn’t. There is a strong chance of and adverse reaction.

[@cesargonzalez8260]

Thanks for the info Brad.

[@alexmessina3383]

Thanks Brad. I asked a question about Acrylic lacquer recently and you said you sprayed it very similarly to other lacquers. I'm wondering, does Acrlyic Lacquer "melt" into itself like other lacquers so there's not need to sand key scratches even after it's fully dried before recoating??

[@BradAngove]

Not like nitro does. I wouldn’t trust it to do that; I would do a light key sanding.

[@alexmessina3383]

@@BradAngove Thnx. Was hoping to avoid that i want to do a spot repair on a hood corner and tbe flow coat clear ova whole hood, but i find even light 800 scratches can show thru clear ... i wonder wots finest paper i cld go or if adhesion promoter instead wld work?

[@BradAngove]

If 800 is showing through your clear you’re likely not applying it heavy enough. That shouldn’t be the case.

[@sam127001]

Yet another great video - How do you protect your cameras while you're spraying ? or are they not close enough to be in danger of overspray?

[@BradAngove]

I try to put it a bit further away and zoom in slightly. I also try to place it away from the direction I’m spraying, and once I’ve sprayed I put the lens cap on.

[@davesavage4707]

What're your thoughts on using acetone in place of thinner when mixing lacquer? From what I've heard it, it cuts down on drying time quite a bit.

[@BradAngove]

Lacquer dries to the touch in seconds regardless if you spray it correctly. I would think acetone would make it more likely to shrink, but I haven’t tried it except for helping cut brushing lacquer to spraying consistency.

[@mrmisterman999]

Are there colored lacquers and are they any good

[@BradAngove]

Pre coloured? There are some, yes. Behlen has a few toner lacquers in spray cans that perform quite well.

[@williamjones3616]

Hi Brad, Could you please tell me if you can spray a water based polyurethane lacquer over a cellulose car paint? Lots of great content on your site, thanks from the UK.

[@BradAngove]

I’m actually kind of confused by your question. I’ve heard of water based poly, and water based lacquer. Urethane/polyurethane are solvent based if I’m not mistaken. Lacquer and polyurethane are also quite different, so a water based polyurethane lacquer isn’t something I’ve ever heard of. And beyond that, I didn’t think anyone had used cellulose as a car paint in decades. That aspect concerns me a little as well. Are you sure that’s what you’re dealing with?

[@williamjones3616]

Brad Angove You go me thinking then for a minute so I had to double check. The varnish top coat I intend to use is Ronseal diamond hard finish, which is a water based polyurethane varnish. I would guess the American equivalent would be Varithane water based polyurethane.The colour coat is probably acrylic but the thinning product as recommended by my local car paint supplier is cellulose at 1 to 1 mix.

[@BradAngove]

Ok. You should be able to use those together. Just give lots of dry time in between, and lightly scuff your base coat before adding the clear.

[@mr2stu69]

Great video. Do you need to wait for the paint to fully harden before doing any `checking / cracking` to the paint? thanks

[@BradAngove]

Not necessarily. In fact, if you freeze the guitar over night immediately after spraying it tends to create some fun checking almost right away.

[@mr2stu69]

@@BradAngove thanks man

[@addman34555]

Hey brad question about spray nitro primer. I bought some Oxford nitro 8 ounce tins and using an hlvp spray gun to spray it, but when I spray it it barely comes out wet, like it comes out almost dusty, like there’s full coverage, but it’s more dusty and not super wet. Like when I spray I barely see an wet gloss look too it. It pretty much dries minutes after spraying, and like I said so wet shiny look from spraying. Why is this and what can I do? I’m spraying in 11°c weather? Any tips thanks!? Also is this just cause it’s primer? Will I see any difference in wetness when I apply the actual colour? Also I believe it’s a 1.0 nozzle touch up gun if that helps?

[@BradAngove]

What psi are you spraying at?

[@RODAREZconAmor]

Question Brad, If I spray it with cans how many cans would I need? I'm using Stewmac aerosol cans, Nitrocellulose Lacquer?

[@BradAngove]

I generally find I only need about one can of sealer, my colour if I’m using one, and one can of clear.

[@RODAREZconAmor]

@@BradAngove Thank you very much I really appreciate it. i've been enjoying all your vids.

[@samuelbalazs196]

What can you use for lacquer thinner? Methalated spirit? Special lacquer thinner?

[@BradAngove]

Just normal lacquer thinner should be fine.

[@jurepog]

How about applying a nitro seafoam green finish on top of an already sunburst finnished guitar? The sunburst finish is probably poly... how would one go about this?

[@BradAngove]

Sand the poly down with 400 grit paper so the nitro has something to adhere to. Spray a coat or two of sanding sealer to act as a bridge between the poly and the nitro (optional but a good idea), and then go ahead and start working on your nitro.

[@jurepog]

Brad Angove thank you, very much! I will do my best :)

[@gmaxwell8307]

Hey Brad. how long does an Acrylic clear coat take to harden/dry/cure ? The ones in spray cans . Thanks !

[@BradAngove]

It depends what type. The acrylic lacquers usually take 4-6 weeks to harden up fully.

[@aidengage8218]

So essentially I can refinish my bass like tomorrow or something with nitro cellulose and then be playing it the same day?

[@BradAngove]

I wouldn’t recommend that. Nitro dries to the touch very very quickly, but it takes about a month to harden completely.

[@aidengage8218]

@@BradAngove ah alright thanks

[@GuitarSmith]

Will a spray can lacquer still turn out well? I am going over an oil based stain. The bottom is black cherry and the top is a blue and black burst on a les Paul shape. I can’t get a gun, I just hope a can will still work.

[@BradAngove]

Yeah. The Behlen stringed instrument lacquer spray cans are actually pretty damn good. Have a look at my series on painting a guitar with behlen’s guitar finishing kit if you want to see them in action.

[@GuitarSmith]

Brad Angove awesome man! Will do, I watch a majority of your vids, must have missed that one somehow 😂 I’ll show the finished guitar on my channel and you can tell me how I did. It will at least be a month because I have to wait for it to harden. Thanks for the quick response! YOU DA MAN!!

[@BradAngove]

Sounds great man. Let me know when it’s up!

[@kayakid2000]

Nitro is my favorite finish for guitars. Have you ever considered doing any acoustic guitars on this channel

[@BradAngove]

I did a custom airbrushed acoustic guitar a while back on this channel.

[@earlheggelund]

Hei Brad! Quick question; Im painting a headstock to be matching colour With body. So my plan is 3 passes times 3 or 4 to get the colour on. Wait for it to dry, apply decals, and then do clearcoat - sanding, Clear coat - Sanding, Clear coat - Polish to cover over the decals and smoothen the Surface. Question is; Do i need to polish the coloured laquer before applying the decals? Or is it enough to polish the end Product/final Clear coat? Best regard - Erlend

[@BradAngove]

I don’t do any polishing until the very end.

[@earlheggelund]

Thanks mate! Also; After applying the colour laquer, am i in a hurry to spray the Clear coat? Or can i rest for a while (Weeks) while i wait for my 63 Jaguar Decals to arrive in the mail? =) Wanting to start right now, but dont have the decals yet.

[@BradAngove]

You can wait as long as you want.

[@HonorCharger]

Hey Brad, may I ask a question? I got the Behlen aerosol stringed instrument lacquer and sprayed my 10 coats, but it never seems to completely dry even after a couple weeks of sitting. It feels really sticky to the touch like a piece of scotch tape or something. Do I just need to wait longer for it to cure? I'm confused!

[@BradAngove]

What recoat times did you use, and what are the temperature and humidity like where you have the guitar?

[@HonorCharger]

@@BradAngove I did 2 to 3 coats a day roughly spaced about 3 hours apart. I did it in my shop with the doors open. I'd say it was about 75 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. I live in Oregon. I didn't think it would be humid enough to make any kind of difference. Maybe just wait longer between coats? Or wait a month for it to cure and hope it's not tacky? I'm not sure. P.s. thanks for replying.

[@BradAngove]

That’s odd. You may have gone a bit heavy/fast, but nonetheless I would generally expect it to be dry to the touch within minutes or hours, not weeks. It takes more time to harden fully, but shouldn’t be sticky. Although nitro does get sticky when it’s too warm sometimes. Has it been drying hanging up somewhere reasonably warm?

[@HonorCharger]

@@BradAngove I did suspect that I applied the coats a bit heavy and fast. Also I've been laying it flat on a table and spraying the top while it sits face up. Not sure if that matters or not. I've been letting it dry in my studio once I feel like it sufficiently flashes off and isn't giving off much odor. Also I read somewhere that it's smart to spray down some vinyl sealer first, but I didn't do that. Maybe that's why it's sticky? I'm not sure. This is my first time refinishing a guitar let alone an acoustic.

[@BradAngove]

The vinyl sealer shouldn’t impact drying time really. Temperature, humidity, coat thickness, and recoat times should be about all that matters for spray can lacquer. It’s not just the temperature you spray at though. It also matters what it dries at.

[@kenmercermusic]

Hi Brad, great demonstration my friend! All the best to you, Ken :-)

[@BradAngove]

Thank you Ken. I’m glad you enjoyed it.

[@Matan2222222]

I have to ask, where the hell can i get that audio track when you spray😂Awesome

[@BradAngove]

It’s from Epidemic Sound. That’s where I get all my background music, although I’m not sure which song that is specifically.

[@Matan2222222]

@@BradAngove Thanks man! Great Video!

[@Matan2222222]

@@BradAngove kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5vaY3WYpJJ3nLM

[@RocknRollRealEstate]

Excellent video as always. I'm new at spraying. I've looked at many of your videos and somehow missed any comments for what nozzle you use in your Warwick 904. I saw the comment below where you said 1.2 in your mini gun. But what nozzle is best for poly with liquid dye (Transtint)? Assuming it's ok to mix the liquid tint with the Polyurethane. Thanks.

[@BradAngove]

I use a 1.4 in my 904 for lacquer. I generally use a 1.5 for my catalyzed poly clear coat.

[@THEREALBeane20]

So, the face mask you linked that comes with the cartridges, is it safe for spraying nitrocellulose? Don't want to inhale this stuff. I checked it out on amazon and it was less than $20

[@BradAngove]

I use the full faced mask usually for nitrocellulose. The cartridge half mask should be fine if you’re in a reasonably well ventilated area though.

[@jywll]

Is this a paint or a coating? Meaning are you getting the red color from what you're spraying? I'm trying to figure out the best guitar paint. Thanks

[@BradAngove]

I got the red color from the nitrocellulose lacquer that I was spraying before. In this video I am spraying clear nitro overtop.

[@briangregory6303]

Looks nice, Brad. Out of curiosity, have you ever done a spray can job that you were really unhappy about how it turned out?

[@BradAngove]

Yes. I’ve done a few of those haha. I can usually tell if they’re going to be awful before I clear coat them, and then I just change them haha.

[@racetraxa3726]

Can you brush paint on a clear nitrocellulose on a guitar that has 3 coats of spray nitrocellulose color and 3 coats of nitrocellulose clear already. I will be sanding the final coat with 2000grit and buffing to a high gloss.

[@BradAngove]

Yes, I’ve you get a brushing nitrocellulose lacquer you can brush on more coats.

[@ralphgleeson6574]

Hey brad ur videos are awesome..thanl u very much 4 responding to me..u really helped me out..u must make sum nice stuff for urself..thanks brother .

[@stevefpv4669]

Nice vid Brad. I got a few things for free from the wife of a recently deceased wood worker. Among them a 5L can of polyurethane, but the paper label around the can has come off, so I just see "polyurethane clear gloss" and "solvent-based" on the can cover but dunno whether it is sprayable or wipe-on. Is there a way to tell? no risk to damage the spray gun in giving it a try on a piece of scrap wood ?

[@BradAngove]

You can spray pretty much any polyurethane if you thin it sufficiently. It’s certainly not the same as a catalyzed automotive polyurethane, but the main difference between the more typical brush on, wipe on, or spray on polys is the thinning. You shouldn’t have any trouble cleaning the gun the normal way after even if it’s wipe on.

[@stevefpv4669]

what can I say except thanks for the quick reply within 11 minutes. If you ever come around my corner of Europe all rounds are on me.

[@BradAngove]

You’re welcome. I hope you get good use out of the poly.

[@DwaynesGuitarLessons]

Hi Brad. Thanks for the great tips. Great video.

[@BradAngove]

Thank you. I’m glad you liked it.

[@metaloutlander]

Great video's man! Can you recommend a good clear coat gloss for nitro paint in a spray paint can?

[@BradAngove]

Nitro clear would be the usual choice for that.

[@allendaleguitars.stpetersb4528]

Brad, happy new year. I wanted to ask you about color and tone sound, Billy smashing pumpkins comment at guitar center. . I'm a painter by trade over 25rs. We all know that it's a pigment, and all paint tint based is a milky white. Now. It's all about color thickness different colors have more coats and like candy needs a silver or sometime gold base to pop the candy color. We all also know wood tone. But it's the pickups and electronics are the true tone maker on the guitar. Comment?

[@BradAngove]

Candy paints aren’t pigment based. They are dyes, which is why light passes through them rather than reflective off of them. Different colours of course build differently. Candy looks completely different depending on what you put it over. The metallic bases are frequently used to give some sparkle, but the candy colours would creat depth regardless. If you want my comments on what creates tone, have a look at my video about whether the finish on your guitar affects its sound.

[@ralphgleeson6574]

Hey brad where can i find the video on how u painted that guitar i love the color .oh n 1 more question buddy if i have a mohagoy body n am gonna use nitro could u please tell me if grain filling is necessary and can i mix black stain in the filler..thanks bro ur awesome..r gleeson

[@BradAngove]

I don’t have the video on painting this guitar up yet. I recommend you do grain fill your mahogany, and yes, you can absolutely tint the filler black.

[@rhyskenny6429]

As nice as it looks I'd never have the patience for a nitro finish. No way I could leave it for a month without disturbing the finish! :P

[@BradAngove]

Fair enough haha.

[@gliddofglood]

Loving your channel. Hugely informative and inspiring. I am looked to do a guitar project which will involve spraying a body with automotive paint as this is a proprietary Alfa Romeo colour - the same pearlescent colour as my car. It may be polyester based (one of the potential suppliers says that theirs is). Will this be compatible with a nitocellulose lacquer, and will it be also compatible with a nitrocellulose primer? Many thanks for your reply!

[@BradAngove]

It wouldn’t really make much sense to use nitro with polyester. You could probably get away with it, but polyester dealers are good and polyester clear is very durable compared to nitro.

[@gliddofglood]

@@BradAngove Thanks very much for getting back to me. It's all going to be a bit vintage, so that's why I was thinking nitro, but it won't be relic'ed. Quite the opposite, so I think I'll follow your advice and go with poly (after all, there is no point in asking experts for advice and then ignoring it.) I see my Baja Player Tele is finished in poly (thin, so they say) and I can't really tell the difference between that an my American Deluxe Strat which is supposedly finished in nitro. It's all good. An idea for a future video could be to explain all these compatibilities or lack thereof. It's really not clear to most people. Cheers!

[@BradAngove]

That video is on the list haha.

[@gliddofglood]

@@BradAngove Cool!

[@Captain-ku2rm]

Brad, can I use a diluted polyurethane (50/50) as a grain sealer before applying water based Color Tone dye, then use nitrocelulous laquer as a clear coat? I assume as long as the diluted polyurethane dries thoroughly before applying the dye, then finishing with the nitroceluous laquer, that there wouldn't be any issue with respect to the poly being under the nitro. Do you think the diluted polyurethane will permit the dye to still take once the polyurethane is dry? I am thinking that using the diluted polyurethane might raise the grain less before I apply Color Tone water based dye.

[@BradAngove]

The poly being under the nitro won’t be a problem as long as you allow ample drying time. However, it will prevent the dye from soaking into the grain properly. If you’re trying to dye the entire surface, that won’t work.

[@Captain-ku2rm]

Thanks! Would I be better off with Color Tone in Alcohol with respect to raising the grain less, and getting a more even coverage?

[@BradAngove]

You would be better off just raising the grain on purpose once and sanding that raised grain off. The grain doesn’t lift repeatedly. After you raise and remove it, you can use alcohol or water. They both apply evenly.

[@Captain-ku2rm]

I used some Timbermate (Natural) on the mahogany back as a grain filler, sanded it off, then I'll stain with Color Tone. Should I do the same with the maple top with respect to using the Timbermate, or just stain the maple directly without any sealer? The maple is paper thin... Your videos are excellent by the way, and you are very gracious in answering questions! After reviewing your videos on Nitro and Polyurethane, I've opted for rub-on Polyurethane. Poly seems easier and better in many respect....but, if I have to repair it someday, I'll just have to sand it off. Thanks very much!

[@BradAngove]

I would skip the filler for the maple veneer. Aside from that it sounds like you’re all set.

[@thegolfnut812]

Nice video. Isn't the purpose of using nitro to enhance the tone?

[@BradAngove]

On a solid body electric guitar using nitro will have no perceivable effect on the tone.

[@juniorguitermaker329]

What name of this shining or finish spray oil brother??

[@BradAngove]

I’m not sure I understand. What is it you’re looking for?

[@juniorguitermaker329]

@@BradAngove but I like to follow you. I'll do what you do brother,,,,

[@ryyymyyy]

yep, that's how i take my starbucks coffee too

[@laurentblond6760]

Hi Brad ! Can you help me . How to make à dirty white bondé like telecaster caballo tono ligero. Light black stain, nitro primary translucide coat, and nitro white blonde ? Thanks

[@BradAngove]

I’m not sure what you mean exactly. Like a vintage white?

[@laurentblond6760]

Yes like à white blonde translucide vintage

[@laurentblond6760]

Brad Angove . Yes like vintage white blonde

[@BradAngove]

Well, a vintage white is usually done by adding a bit of amber to it, or on top. Unless you mean a whitewash style finish, in which case I would go with Behlen’s white pickling stain. If you want to do translucent white over a black stain accent, that would also look cool. I’m not sure if that’s a vintage white per se though.

[@laurentblond6760]

Brad Angove . Thank you for all Brad , and thanks for your channel. Amazing.

[@alexgarcia8365]

Could you do think paint job on to a flaming maple top guitar?

[@BradAngove]

Not sure what you mean by think paint job. Autocorrect from tinted?

[@killerdude35]

Is there really a huge difference in tone between a nitro finished guitar and a polyurethane finished guitar? I keep hearing nitro allows more resonance but I think much of that is BS when so much of it can be EQ'd with pickup and amp selection.

[@BradAngove]

If you’re talking about a solid body electric guitar there’s no perceptible difference.

[@hosoiarchives4858]

How was the black effect achieved?

[@BradAngove]

With a propane torch.

[@drej1714]

Another great video! Jw.... Have you ever painted a fingerboard?

[@BradAngove]

I have, but probably not in a way that you would expect. I mostly oil them.

[@grizelda4526]

Why don’t spray in direct sunlight?

[@BradAngove]

It will harm the lacquer.

[@baqergt5062]

I want to paint metal thing its good or bad

[@BradAngove]

I’m not entirely sure what you’re asking here. You can paint metal if you prepare it properly.

[@baqergt5062]

@@BradAngove I Have wood clear coat lacquer i want paint metal Is it work on metal or no ?

[@BradAngove]

It can if you prepare it properly.

[@justrockon426]

Nice channel! do you sell guitars, or painted bodies/necks? thanks.

[@BradAngove]

I’m actually just in the process of setting up a small business so that I can sell custom replacement bodies.

[@justrockon426]

that would be cool. no neck? refin shop? anyways good luck & notice me the shops open for business:)

[@BradAngove]

Just cool replacement bodies and plates etc. to begin with, so you can bolt your strat/tele neck onto something completely new looking haha.

[@westrokker]

Wish I had a shop like that , I just use my garage

[@BradAngove]

I do most of the building in my garage these days. The shop is wonderful for painting though for sure.

[@westrokker]

Quick question, I’m refinishing an old Harmony Monterey archtop. I have it stripped down to the bare wood. Does sanding sealer go on before laquer color? Or after? I’m using Stew Mac color tone laquer

[@BradAngove]

The sealer goes on before the color.

[@westrokker]

Brad Angove thanks so much!