How to Brush On a Beautiful Gloss Finish

[@Damaged262]

My late father in law was a house painter 70 until 30 years ago or so. I've got tons of nice, natural bristled brushes to choose from thanks to him. Thank you for the tips, you rock Brad.

[@BradAngove]

Awesome. Put them to good use!

[@rustyfan89]

I don’t do anything with guitars but I do a lot of woodworking and have quite a bit of experience doing so but I’m always looking to better my skills and while you may be explaining things I know already, you have very well explained videos and I have definitely picked up more than one tip from you, things I never thought of doing, I guess that’s what makes a good craftsman, acknowledging you don’t know it all and be willing to listen to others with experience. Thanks Brad!

[@BradAngove]

Thank you, I’ve glad you’ve found the content worthwhile.

[@ThekiBoran]

The key word for brushing on polyurethane is patience. I've had good luck with chisel tip foam brushes. I get good results by letting the foam brush soak in the poly in a plastic tray. I let it sit in about an inch of poly for a couple minutes. That way it's fully loaded. I'm also careful not to press the brush either into the tray or on the work surface. That creates bubbles. Then as I brush I go extremely slowly at the proper angle and with almost no force and let the poly flow out of the brush. It takes patience but if you are you can get an almost glassy smooth finish. Of course that first coat will have some imperfections and bubbles but the second coat will be close to perfect.

[@soyborne.bornmadeandundone1342]

effin baller man. I'll try your tips asap.

[@ashersolomon9560]

Been working on my PRS copy and using the brush on Golss Poly by Minwax. Your videos take away any doubt when using these products. I’m now confident that I’ve chosen the right method for a strong finish.

[@BradAngove]

Glad I could help.

[@jorgedayneece]

Awesome background music! I am so grateful for this channel for so many reasons. This episode was an absolute gem.

[@BradAngove]

Glad you liked it

[@Toasty_1992]

Thank you for all your videos and the hard work that goes through making them. I’m currently working on a guitar of my own.

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Justin. I hope your guitar goes well.

[@paulppaulp7138]

Got her finished (clear coat gloss) today Brad, few pics sent there now on your fb messenger. I can never thank you enough so all i can say is many thanks. Turned out stunning.

[@BradAngove]

I’ve very glad to hear that. Well done.

[@paulppaulp7138]

@@BradAngove Brad lastly as i only have one coat of clear gloss what would you say total cure time so i can put guitar back together again, phoned company they say 5 - 7 days but would still like a second opinion. I was thinking next saturday which would be 9 days. Your thoughts. Just to add i think some say a month cause some paint 3-4 coats of clear gloss.

[@BradAngove]

It depends on temperature and humidity, but 9 days is typically fine for something like this.

[@thomashall2418]

Awesome Instruction and techniques. Really appreciate the videos Brad.

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Thomas

[@tudore_jams]

Great video tutorial! I'm nearing the end of my first build and was debating what kind of finish to use. This video convinced me to give this a go!

[@BradAngove]

I hope it goes well for you.

[@userfixit]

Brad. so glad you collaborated with Dan at Guns and Guitars! I’m not a refinisher but would not be afraid to try. I make lap steels and cigar box guitars as retirement hobby Great channel -Bob. Athens. GA. USA

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Bob.

[@wjewell63]

I still refer back to your channel for awesome instructions and this is my 15th build now...thanks brad

[@BradAngove]

Glad you find it helpful!

[@minkorrh]

I would definitely use that on a build. After about 4 coats sand and polish with a little compound to a mirror. For headlights (polycarbonate) we use a pink open-cell pad with compound to bring up a factory clarity and shine after 800/1000/1500. 800 would put a lot of scratches into that glossy finish...I'd start at 1500 and go up from there as ll you really need to do is level. Nice beautiful look though.

[@DJBuglip]

I know this is an old one Brad, but thanks. I want a poly finish that looks like epoxy resin, 1/8" thick, on the second build, because I gig em and I want to feel confident when I accidentally bang it into the amp or something. Was trying to figure out how best to apply it for my intents and determined brushing would give me the thickest coverage in the fewest coats, and then came here to learn how to do it. Perfect instruction as usual.

[@BradAngove]

Glad I could help. I hope your paint job goes well.

[@MythicGuitarCompany]

Pro tip: Something he doesn't specifically mention (but does automatically) is that you need to hold your Sanders FLAT to the surface, don't sand on the edge of the tools! Otherwise it cuts a groove into the material and you can easily burn through the finish into the wood.

[@thespiritof76..]

Another tip I got from Dan Erwin on keeping the edge of a paint can clean and avoid splatter when tapping the lid back on is use a Dixie cup to “dip” what you need from the can... no mess at all on your rim... I find new ways to use Dixie cups and tongue depressors everyday. Great video! 👍🏻👍🏻

[@luketanner7638]

That looks great! Really excited to slowly build my brother's old guitar into something exceptional and unique. Thanks for the super helpful videos!

[@BradAngove]

Thanks for watching.

[@Scottuz]

these vids have been so helpful to me over the last week ? after buying a 2nd hand squire online a few years ago, felt it wasnt quite right, anyway after finally stripping the guitar down found a painted after market body, with two layers of paint and a thick plastic covering, ive had to flake off, now im ready to finish the body, i wasn't sure which way to go with it, but now, I think this is the way to go? brush on lacquer, and sand and buff as required, brilliant, thanks for the info Brad

[@BradAngove]

Glad I could help

[@Scottuz]

@@BradAngove seriously seen so many of your old videos, i now know what to buy depending on which way i finish it off now? solid colour, or stained, or natural and lacquer cheers Brad👍🏽

[@krustdogg131]

This is great! Ive been wanting to refinish a les paul but worried i wouldnt be able to get a shiny finish but this seems way easier than most other techniques i have seen

[@BradAngove]

It’s pretty easy to get the hang of. I hope yours goes well.

[@sly5999]

Stripping a valuable vintage Gibson Les Paul from its original finish (even when dented, scratched, cracked, chipped, worn out as it was played non-stop for 5 decades) and refinishing it with whatever finish (even an original Gibson's recipe finish) will take off at least half of its current value as is, right? Almost happened to a beaten up 1964 Telecaster worth $11 000. The original finish was at least as bad as mentioned above. When the guy realised that the value his beaten up Fender would drop down to $4 000 after refinishing, he got his guitar back from the shop just in time. Refinishing a guitar does nothing for its playability, it might only improve esthetics. It's never worth it on valuable vintage guitars. Get a professional appraisal for your Les Paul before it's too late...and I really hope it's not.

[@krustdogg131]

@@sly5999 no im trying to make it look better. Someone already tried to re finish it before me with eddie van Halen stripes lol believe me when I say it needs a new finish

[@sly5999]

@@krustdogg131 Man...Eddie Van Halen (R.I.P.) stripes on a Gibson Les Paul...some people will never get it. Were those stripes just applied on the guitar and left without finish? Or were the stripes covered with some clear after application? Do you know the year of manufacturing and the model of your Les Paul? Eddie Van Halen played many Gibson Les Pauls throughout his career but never did he had one stripped. At least not from what I'm aware of. www.pinterest.com/pin/465207836483123167/

[@krustdogg131]

@@sly5999 ya pretty much. seemed like they were spray painted over the original black finish

[@MrStorm029029]

I checked out the but vid you sent me, great stuff. I have patched the bridge hole sanded it down and letting wood glue set before paint and finish. Your vids and help have been great. Thanks for all the work you put in. It's allowing my '87 Dean Z Autograph to be able to sing again after 30 years of being cased in a closet. I can't wait for it to be finished. 👍

[@BradAngove]

Thanks Dan. I’m glad I was able to help.

[@Soulless60]

Hey Brad, As usual - amazing video. How do you do the sides and back of the guitar using this technique? Finish one surface at a time and then move on to the next? Or would you suspend the guitar and do all the surfaces together?

[@BradAngove]

I would do the sides first in lighter coats with it suspended, and then finish the front and back the way I have here. Laying it flat helps the paint lay down nicely on the faces.

[@Soulless60]

Thanks!!

[@BradAngove]

Thanks for watching.

[@ashevillescarborough]

Brad Angove thanks.. was just wondering this as well and see many thought the same thing..

[@sooolion9820]

Thanks for the video, in line with working on front/back faces, do you let one face dry completely before working on the other face? And Im curious what type of material can i use underneath the dried front face when working on the back face? Im afraid if i lay it on like paper towels it will leave marks and mess up the finish. Thanks again

[@gerardkeane5641]

Great brush finish option. Thanks

[@BradAngove]

Glad you like it!

[@realjumper]

I'm happy to see this video Brad, brushing is my area of experience much (much!) more than spraying is., although I'm not an 'expert' by any means. If I may......your're right to use long strokes if possible, but if not, then short ones will do to get the material on the job. But, always 'float off' with long strokes. so in other words, get the material on the job as best you can, then with the same brush, but no material on it, make your long stokes (with not much pressure) to level out the material...or to 'float if off' as we say. Also, use the very best quality brush you possibly can get hold of. If re-using a brush, if it isn't 100% clean and soft, then don't use it...get another one because it will not give such a good finish. Ask me how I know this! Lastly, as with any finish, make sure that the material is warm...or at least not cold. I know it's summer for you at the moment so it may not be an issue. For me it's winter so i would need to stand my pot of finish in a pan of warm water before brushing it on. I know you know this, but i thought I'd mention it if you don't mind. For what it's worth, quite frankly I'm surprised that brushing isn't more widely used today. If you cast your mind back to the beautifully finished horse drawn carriages of old, they were all brush finished, as were the early cars. Have a look at an early Rolls Royce or similar quality car from that era with the original paint....all brushed on. Cheers....and go the All Blacks!! ;)

[@BradAngove]

I never mind hearing someone else's advice and experience, so thank you for this. I did forget to mention the floating off technique, also I've only heard it referred to as tipping off. That's a very good point that I should have included. With poly you're 100% correct that it's important to have the brush clean. With lacquer and shellac you can just sit the brush in thinner for about 30 minutes before using it and it returns to a useful state. I didn't even think to mention the temperature issue, not because it's winter, but because I keep all of my finishing materials in the shop. Thanks for reminding me that I should be pointing those things out. The all blacks are a very exciting team to watch. There's no denying that.

[@reckless-ramblers]

RJumper, yes about warm, not cold product, also true for spray cans and a warm work atmosphere

[@patrickbrady8326]

Thanks Brad I like your videos..very helpful

[@jamesreaves5534]

You can brush it on any old Direction preferably across the grain and then go back and tip it off with the grain you'll get a nicer look and you won't have as many missed spots known by painters as holidays, your varnish will be be evened out as far as thick and thin places. If you do this it'll be relatively the same thickness everywhere. Then you can take a rag wrap it around your forefinger and go around the perimeter wipe off any excess runs around the edge and do the same around the edge of all your cavities such as your pick up cavities wiring cavities anything like this. This way you don't have to spend a lot of time trying to be real neat around the cavities just get it on there real quick, I suggest going across the grain first then tipping it off with the grain as I said before because this evens out the thickness of the varnish/paint/stain coat instead of having thick and thin spots. When you first put your brush down it's thicker right there and then as your brush gives out of paint/varnish/stain it gets thinner. When you put another brush full it's thicker wherever you first stick your brush down, but if you apply your finish in two directions each one counseling out the other you don't have that problem. Your coat of finish will be real even like a spray coat by doing this and you have plenty of open time when using an oil-based product on a small surface like the face of a guitar. Also I suggest that you not sand any higher than 220 for your first coat this will give you better adhesion certainly not higher than 320. 600 is a little slick for my liking. 600 grit might cause you problems with adhesion not right away but at some point down the line it May chip and peel-off down to the wood whereas your coating a lot more grip on 220 and you can't see any difference under a clear coat or a painted coat. I've done this for forty+ years, since 1972 and I've never had any problem provided you sand with the grain and don't have any cross-grain scratches. Typically painters and finishers will use 120 to 150 as their final sand on painted Pine and 220 Hardwood or if they're planning on staining and or varnishing Pine they might go to 220, although 120 works just fine. If you want to go crazy you can go to 3:20 but I never have. also try using a Wooster yachtsman marine varnish brush these are the best for applying oil/solvent based varnish/stain/paint. They have a finer grade of bristle and they're fairly inexpensive because they have a cheap plastic handle instead of an expensive wood handle. The bristle is what matters. They have the high quality marine varnish bristle which is a fine grade of rwhite china bristle like the brush you're using. My favourite China bristle brush for the particular job you are doing is a two and a half inch brush straight across and if you want to get a little more high quality in that it has a little more bristle count per square inch get the Worcester with the little round pencil handle that's what we painters call them the handle is about like one of those fat kindergarten pencils you get it's a wood handllet. God Bless Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to you& yourn!! Jimmy in NC....

[@paulppaulp7138]

I can't thank you enough. I took everything you said on board on a very expensive vintage guitar. Had a very bad reaction with nitro lacquer on my vintage lacquer (monday), yes it should of stuck but none of it did, nightmare. Took a deep breath and decided to get it off quick (long story, but i did, thank god). I then bought some Coo - Var (pack 2) polyurethane clear varnish gloss, and tested for 1 hour were the 4 screws hold the headstock to the fret board, perfect. Then putting the guitar body up the ways in a hard plastic rod tube and taped the made up bit of wood i screwed in to headstock and used also my experience on how i was taught to varnish with yes sanding with 600 grit as i had my old lacquer intact. Varnished the whole body and wow it came up like new, 1st coat is dry (thursday) and tomorrow il sand with 600 grit (lightly) and after it dries il let it sit for 3 weeks. You guys are craftsmen and i can never thank you enough.

[@BradAngove]

Glad I could help

[@paulppaulp7138]

@@BradAngove Hi Brad, i decided after 2nd coat to wait 2 hours and i put on 3rd final coat. Yep i lightly sanded with 600 grit (dry) after 1st coat (1st coat looked amazing, thanks to you) and the Coo - Var was very forgiving and left no brush marks and is in a spare (heated) room drying. I will leave it in that room for a few weeks to cure. Brad just one question if i may in say 4 weeks time before i put guitar back together again what would you recommened (no buffer or sander in mind) to polish it (if safe to do) to make it super smooth (if needed) as i don't want to use sandpaper after all work gone in this week, i don't want to scratch final coat.

[@BradAngove]

If you’re not planning on using sandpaper as part of the polishing process then there’s really no point in going through that process. Luckily, polishing is purely aesthetic. If you’re happy with how it looks there’s really no need to go down that road.

[@paulppaulp7138]

@@BradAngove Thanks Brad for your time, appreciated. 1st coat was beautiful i mean faultless, sadly i was taught 1 coat only for gloss so this was all new to me adding more coats, the other coats just didn't happen so i have to sand and clean and start again. Im learning a lot, but i should of just been happy with the one coat. Got about 80% off keeping all the paint underneath in tact, it's a 3 sunburst tone body, it really did look new after 1st coat.

[@paulppaulp7138]

@@BradAngove Brad just to add, as mentioned i was taught a single coat of gloss is a finished job. Anyways i acted quick. soaked the guitar body with oven cleaner for 30 minutes and i scraped (plastic) 80 - 85% of the polyurethane 3 coats off, bit of work yep but gladly she kept all her original paint 100%, light sand next week and 1 single coat, job done.

[@smokepeddler]

Man you make it look so easy. I hate doing brush on or wipe on poly. It always takes way more effort and time than spray.

[@BradAngove]

I also prefer to spray haha.

[@neighborscomplaint6859]

Just an FYI. Do not apply Polyurethane by brushing back and forth. You brush in a single direction only and flow the finish on. Once you have applied the finish to the full length of the body, finish with a final stroke the full length of the body from end to end. Follow up he rest of the body in the same direction.

[@j.d.2896]

Looks great! I need one of those buffers

[@BradAngove]

Thank you

[@chrisnation49]

Hi Brad. A few [!] words to round off my project. A number of issues encountered on the way that may be useful for those less experienced, like me. 1] As you mentioned before but it has to be made very clear - a really good quality brush is absolutely essential. Mine was bristle but of inferior quality, including shedding bristles. This gave me all sorts of probs which were difficult to remedy. I abandoned it for a foam sponge. More of that below. 2] Depending on the make of poly and the conditions you're working in, if you don't get it right with each pass, trying to make good may result in making worse. I found that my poly was virtually unworkable, as far as a 'repair' on the guitar, after as little as 20-30 seconds! Here we are, in middish Oct and I'm still in just shorts by day, sleeping under only a sheet, in Valencia, Spain. Temp in work room 28C/82F+. 26C/79F today. 3] I had some double-layer dish cleaning foam sponges. One side was a very soft foam, smallish 'bubbles'. I found that really loading the sponge up along one edge and making a non-stop pass down the guitar left a good, thick layer of poly. Looked like a layer of watered-down yoghurt. It's extremely important that the pass is non-stop. I found that a pause, or stopping short, left a boundary line, with brush or sponge, and if not dealt with instantly, just left work to do with the abrasive, 24 hrs later - sanding out the 'ridge' and making another non stop pass down that area. 4] As you must make a non-stop pass, off the edge of the guitar, with a well-loaded brush or sponge, there are going to be runs down the side of the guitar. Mine is square-edged and with plastic binding. It is essential to wipe the runs clear before they run round the lower edge onto the other surface. If they do run 'round the corner' onto the lower surface, they dry to a solid bleb. Picking these off, if on the surface you coated first, results in a disaster - the bleb comes away with all the layers below it! - leaving a torn edge to the area, right down to the original surface! This is exceedingly difficult to repair. If the original surface is wood, maybe it's easier but mine was a factory paint satin finish. Hours of painstaking work with scalpel, abrasive and fine artist brush. Looks close, but no cigar. After 3 attemps to get a finish with that horrible brush, I had fine 'tramlines' all down the back - my training camp. Massive sanding job to try to flat these out - not entirely successful. Only removing all the poly would have worked. Then came the learning curve with the pad, the characteristics of the poly ... you will be suitably amazed to know I ended up with 9 [nine!] coats on the back! I now know how to get a really glassy finish in two coats - if I ever did this again! 5] Once the poly has gone off completely - 24 hrs - it's possible, with great care, to make local repairs. Sand the offending area and load the pad so that the bulk of the poly goes down on the repair area and feathers off onto the surrounding area as the poly on the sponge thins off. This takes some practice. I've done it with household gloss paint and it works with clear poly. The front has three coats and needed a couple of areas of local repair. It could use some more but I have called a halt for now. From 5 paces it looks pretty good. But it was a test bed and shows the signs of being so. I doubt there'll be another but if there is it will be miles better!

[@music-xr4co]

thanks for the vids...i have learned enough to feel confident with the finishing steps for my guitars..working on a telecaster now..i used gloss watco hand rubbed polyurethane, followed with 1000 grit wet sanding and rubbed it out with toothpaste and a little water, because i had nothing else at the time...surprisingly enough it turned out to a realllllly nice satin finish..then used a good auto detailing polish and its smooth as glass...your vids helped a great deal, thanks again.

[@BradAngove]

Awesome. I’m glad to hear you’re happy with how it turned out.

[@music-xr4co]

@@BradAngove btw, will be in Canada twice this summer..if we run into you the poutine and molson export is on me..

[@BradAngove]

Haha well the Molson isn’t an export here. It is stronger though, which is nice.

[@Wildbillsgarage]

Thanks for the effort. Absolutely perfect for the rookie painters. Play guitar for 40 years and never paint one? Ya, das bin ich! Go figure.

[@auralfury]

finished staining a J bass red mahogany, this technique will work well and protect it. Thanks for tips

[@BradAngove]

I hope it goes well

[@petejansen8098]

Really nice finish pretty quickly.

[@BradAngove]

This stuff is much faster than building up a bunch of coats with some of those other finishes.

[@ericwilliams7374]

Thank you for posting your videos!!! You saved me a headache with one of your videos about how NOT to use laquer with enamel paints!!! Thank you!!!!

[@BradAngove]

Glad I was able to prevent some problems.

[@mizansomani1815]

That Beach toolbox is a great piece of Canadiana, nice to see!

[@TheJosephPhillips]

Nice and shiney..

[@franciscorivera6271]

Brad , awesome finished! ,, please where do i gel all finished , gloss finished . my best !!

[@GL64]

Wow, shiny. Good work!

[@BradAngove]

Thanks.

[@josephmichaels1180]

Good job.very nice

[@BradAngove]

Thank you

[@tyrssen1]

Guys, this strictly a personal preference, but as a long-time automotive painter, I prefer spraying every time. Thick finishes are said (by some purists) to alter tone. Spray-can polyurethane enamel clears work fine on guitars -- so do Krylon spray paints from Wally World or K Mart. (Others will work, and any cheap spray-on primer is okay, but I've always found Krylon to be the best quality spray paint.) Ya won't have brush-mark streaks, either, and final polishing is IMHO optional. Depending on how well you handle a spray can. (Car model builders will be ahead of the game.) That said -- good vid, Brad, that should be a nice-lookin' guitar.

[@BradAngove]

+Seth Tyrssen Thanks Seth. I also prefer to spray, but sometimes it's not an appropriate option. Some of my viewers are trying to refinish guitars in their apartments, or are painting other objects that are affixed to things that they don't want to get paint on and that aren't appropriate to tape off fully. I'm trying to offer a variety of options, but spraying is certainly my favourite application method.

[@NorfolkBroadsForum]

Very useful and thank you. I am not doing guitar but wooden rubbing strake on boat.

[@BradAngove]

I’m not sure what a strake is, but I hope it goes well for you.

[@jacobbockover1628]

I've actually done a lot of floors with that same product. It is a easy product compared to a lot of other stuff

[@TheBartman55]

you mentioned about doing a test to make sure it won’t cause problems with the paint. in another video you used dupli color paint.. do you know if this will work over that kind of paint? i’m still trying to figure out if i need to use lacquer or acrylic lacquer paint. help… thank you for your work and videos. they are so helpful

[@BradAngove]

I’ve never tried those two together.

[@thechrisbaker]

Having trouble finding that finish. Is there a non-Professional equivalent? Affiliate link would be super! Thanks Brad!

[@BradAngove]

Hi Chris. Thank you, if you check out the amazon link in the description (of my newer videos if not this one), there’s a finishing products list with some good options in it. The minwax fast drying poly is a good choice.

[@jacobbockover1628]

I did not know that whole poking trick that's cool

[@TheBartman55]

how do you apply it to the back of the guitar? do you do the back first or what?? looks great

[@BradAngove]

Yes, do the back first and let it dry.

[@lance8167]

Oh and thanks for the content I watched your other video and I did a good job last time so you definitely set me straight on lacquer I'd never use lacquer it f****** I like the performance of it

[@simonlee9116]

Thank you for your great help. May I use this technique to classical guitar finishes as well? Look forward to hear from you soon. Thank you

[@BradAngove]

I would stick with something like a lacquer, oil, or shellac for a classic guitar.

[@reckless-ramblers]

For a classical guitar, research French polish, I'm sure there are other sources USA check out Wizart colors on ebay, he has some very interesting items.

[@seanmcaleavy2369]

Since you mentioned that you're fairly inexperienced with brushing technique, here is a good tip. Never start your stroke in the wet material. Meaning, either start it on a previously unpainted section or, on a guitar, start at one edge and go all the way through and off the opposite edge. If you need to get to a spot in the central area that was missed, always start at an edge and brush towards the center. This eliminates lap marks.

[@BradAngove]

Thanks for the tip. I haven’t had any issues with lap marks, but it will be good to avoid them in the future. I usually start near the middle now and brush out to the edges to avoid large drips down the sides.

[@williamjenks6866]

Nice words. Very reasurring

[@eml5086]

Hi Brad... any tips for finishing a basswood guitar body? Thank you for your videos.

[@BradAngove]

It’s not notably different. Is there a particular type of finish you’re looking for?

[@FutureFootballer10]

I’ve never worked with anything like this but plan to soon. I have a old guitar that was never used. So i decided to sand it down and customize it with some acrylic paintings. I want to gloss it back up! Would my acrylic paintings on it smudge after applying gloss?

[@BradAngove]

They certainly could. It would be preferable to apply a couple light coats of spray clear first to protect/set them.

[@mrboat580]

Roll and tip. Thin the varathane @ 10% with a combination of spirits and naptha, roll it on with a foam hot dog roller, and immediately tip it one stroke only, in one direction, with a finish dampened badger hair varnish brush. It will look smoother than if it was sprayed and if you do choose to rub it out, there will be a lot less sanding. You may even decide it does not need polish. Also, you can wet sand wood finishes with mineral spirits without damage or changes to the wood or the subsequent finish coats.

[@BradAngove]

I'd love to see a tutorial from you on that technique. It sounds interesting.

[@mrboat580]

It's kind of common knowledge in the realm of high-end yacht finish and there are tutorials about the web. I've had nearly 40 years in, and when I started, masters mixed their own solvents for a variety of seasonal temperatures and climates. One of the best leveling blends for alkyd based finishes, both pigmented and clears are, kerosene and naptha. Cooler temps, a bit stronger on the naptha, warmer, side with more kerosene. Spirits is an 'ok' substitute for kerosene. The other ingredient is a full and fine, badger styled brush found mostly at marine supply outlets. About the closest you may find at a normal paint store is Purdy's Ox hair series. A clue to this technique is the label VM&P (Varnish Makers & Painters) Naptha. :)

[@TheJayzano]

thanks for making these

[@RurouniTenShins]

So is it okay to do this to the body before you drill holes? I’m thinking both for the bridge and the switch board.

[@BradAngove]

I wouldn’t. It could cause chipping of the finish.

[@michaelsinn16]

I have a question. I have a Epiphone Les Paul that I just got. It has a factory (dull) satin finish on the body. I am putting on transparent decals on it. To keep the stickers permanently on the guitar and to give the guitar a kind of shiny finish on top of the stickers, what would I use on it? How long til the guitar body is fully dry and able to out the hardware back in it? Thank you.

[@BradAngove]

I’m pretty sure I just answered this exact comment on another video.

[@DodgyChris2012]

Love the videos man, any idea what would cause spray can clear to wrinkle over time even after it is cured. Keep it up dude!

[@BradAngove]

After it's cured? That's pretty wild. I'm not sure why it would do that with no residual solvents to create a reaction. How long has it been since you sprayed it? Are you sure it's "wrinkled" and not checked or cracked?

[@snartzzb983]

Not letting the coat underneath dry (flash off the vehicle) long enough. If it happened spraying over an old existing finish, then the clear wasn't compatible with the old finish/paint.

[@dylanjames6781]

I have a brush on satin poly, I'm staining the guitar black Should I thin it enough to just wipe it on or would the brush work And as far as the coats go, I have no way to suspend it, so should I do the front and sides first? Or tape off the sides, do the front, then do the back, then sides? It's my first time so any help would be absolutely amazing!

[@BradAngove]

Brushing should be fine. Do the back and sides first. Save the front for last.

[@pedroreyes4670]

Is it possible to brush spraying nitro lacquer with proper thinning? I'm not able to get this kind of varnish finishes. Your's turned out nice.

[@BradAngove]

You would have more success using brushing lacquer. Thinning would do the opposite. You can mix brushing lacquer with some solvents to create spraying lacquer.

[@p.s8950]

Can this product (or any product) be put on over a Tru Oil finish, without string back to bar. Love the look I've got, just want a glass gloss finish to it. Thank for passing on your expertise. Locked down in Edmonton Alberta. lol

[@BradAngove]

Once the tru-oil has had time to dry 100% you can likely give it a light sanding with 800 grit paper and then clear coat with catalyzed polyurethane.

[@rdisipio]

Can this be used on top of a Duplicolor spray lacquer? Assuming it has dried properly for a few days before top coating.

[@BradAngove]

I think so, but I would suggest using a coat or two of the duplicolor clear coat first as a barrier in between.

[@rdisipio]

@@BradAngove yeah I guess it makes sense to add a sort of buffer between the acrylic and the poly...if I mess up I can still scratch it without touching the color.

[@CKC411]

That appears to be a flat top, so if I am thinking of doing this to a very matte finished Gibson with a slightly carved top. would the process change? In other words. would the material dissipate from the top as gravity pulls wet finish to the edges?

[@BradAngove]

It does level a bit. Put the first coat on a bit thinner, then sand once it’s dry and brush your next one on a bit heavier. It’s shouldn’t be a problem.

[@collectiveoasis]

How do you feel about the water based varathane finishes? Particularly I’ve heard the floor finish dries super clear and pretty durable? Any thoughts? Thanks.

[@BradAngove]

I’ve heard good things about it. I don’t think I’ve really worked with it personally though.

[@lance8167]

Dude those holes in the can it's a great idea but for some reason I saw it on Martha Stewart tips show you know her home economics show or whatever she used to have LOL

[@BradAngove]

That's hilarious.

[@JimRoshelli]

You mentioned early in the video to test a section if you're painting first, to make sure that clear coat doesn't have a bad interaction with the paint. How about if you are using a transparent stain first? Same thing or is that less risky? I love the gloss level you achieved with this product and process!

[@BradAngove]

Its still best to test it. Preferably in a separate piece. Stains don’t all have the same chemicals etc.

[@leonfriery8457]

Your video's are super helpful thanks man. Im just about to start my first build, i have a lovely mahogany telecaster body. Am i right in thinking i should sand it down to a high grit, then use a grain filler and sand down again, and then finally use this for the gloss finish? Thanks Leon

[@BradAngove]

+Leon Friery That's certainly an option if you're looking for a natural look. Just make sure you put some thought into the colour of your grain filler.

[@richardk8313]

Varathane Professional Clear Finish 900 Gloss seems to be available in Canada only. Is there a comparable finish that is readily available in the US that is just as good? Thanks.

[@BradAngove]

Behlen’s rock hard table varnish is better. Have a look at the amazon link in the description of my recent videos if you want. It’s available through there in the finishing products list or the Behlen list.

[@sharkbait5250]

Would this technique work the same on a guitar with color paint rather than natural wood?

[@BradAngove]

It should, as long as the paint types are compatible.

[@toby8261]

Hi Brad, can you still do wipe on gloss if you are coating the entire guitar? Im struggling to think how i could apply the gloss to the curved edges/sides of my stratocaster body without it dripping/running, is this something thats possible? Thanks in advance!

[@BradAngove]

It’s certainly possible. You’ll need a thinner brush for the edges. Or if you actually mean wipe on poly you just wipe it on in thin coats. Lots of them.

[@toby8261]

@@BradAngove thanks Brad, in the end I decided to bite the bullet and have bought some spray equipment!

[@BradAngove]

@toby8261 I hope you enjoy working with it.

[@davidtrevi2914]

What type of wood is that? The color is beautiful! Would I get the same results if I used spray and with the same method of polishing?

[@BradAngove]

I think it’s some form of ash or alder. You can get the same results with a spray if you build it up properly.

[@stevemercer6328]

Brad, I cannot find behlens polish anywhere. Do you know what other hand polish I can use? Thanks, Steve

[@BradAngove]

Behlen has been absorbed back into Mohawk. They have their buff n polish kit, but there are lots of options that work similarly by hand.

[@thruxtonvalrico67]

Fantastic!!! How do I avoid runs or drips when I paint the sides and back? Thanks!!!

[@BradAngove]

You’ll want to apply a few thinner coats on the sides. The back you can do flat like the front.

[@thruxtonvalrico67]

Brad Angove Thanks for the response. Be well!!

[@karenils8987]

Hi Brad! Do i need some kind of sealer on a sanded down guitarbody before applying lacquer? The wood is poplar so its a fine grain.

[@BradAngove]

You don’t technically need it, although it will likely help you achieve a smooth coat faster.

[@karenils8987]

Brad Angove thank you

[@matthewwalter8774]

What about the back and sides? Do you sand and poly as well?

[@BradAngove]

Yes

[@victorespinoza2566]

Hey Brad so i got me a new kit and i have some oil based wood stain . And a water based polyurethane clear gloss. On it . Have you ever use varathane wood stain and would you recommend it.

[@BradAngove]

I’ve used it and have found that it generally works fine, as long as it’s not the combo junk with stain and poly in it.

[@franciscorivera6271]

products , thank you !

[@BradAngove]

Are you asking about the product I used in the video?

[@lwltrs]

Could I paint over the wipe on poly with the brush on stuff you used? The wipe on poly didn’t give my guitar the super glossy look I was looking for

[@BradAngove]

Yes. Just sand it lightly with 600 grit to get it nice and smooth and you should be good to go.

[@RayQuenneville]

I also had issues with minwax wipe on poly. Perhaps i put my layers on too thin. I was able to sand (up to P3000) and get a smooth mirror finish with Meguires polish, but it was a bit cloudy and you could clearly see lines where i burned through the different layers of finish. Since poly doesn’t “melt” into previous layers the way lacquer does, perhaps a thick brush on overcoat would avoid these issues.

[@BradAngove]

Unfortunately you need to be very careful sand back the wipe on product because of potential witness lines.

[@presto111man]

Great video, thanks!

[@BradAngove]

Thanks for watching.

[@melvinhowe5023]

Hey Brad, great video! I have almost finished my project and it looks great, the only thing is the poly finish still gets imprinted when I run my fingernail across. The project has sat for 2 weeks. Should I just let it dry longer?

[@BradAngove]

Ya, just give it another couple weeks and it may finish hardening.

[@stompeychops6243]

Have you got an alternative for the verathane coz I’m from the uk and they don’t sell it here, will any oil based gloss finish work?

[@BradAngove]

Yes, it should.

[@mikekorzelius6275]

Thanks Brad, could you indicate what the rpm's are for the orbital sander and the polisher? I don't want to sand through the body.

[@BradAngove]

I’m not sure what they are. For the sanding, the grit of paper will have a substantially greater effect on your ability to sand through than the speed. Faster rotation doesn’t necessarily mean faster sanding. Start slow and see how well it levels. For the polisher, I turn mine up to full blast, but it’s based on how much air pressure is running through it. Again, starting slow is safer, but you should be able to avoid burn through by not pushing too hard and by keeping the polisher moving.

[@usherl250]

Hey Brad, I enjoyed your tutorial. Did you mention what kind of gloss you are using? The can was turned at an angle that I could only make out "professional" written on the can. I love the high shine. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.

[@BradAngove]

I believe I did mention it. It's the fast drying professional poly. 900 gloss.

[@usherl250]

Brad Angove oh I'm sorry I missed it, thanks so much. My husband was napping when I was watching and I had the volume down. 🙂

[@larrycannon166]

Brad, what do you recommend for a good masking tape?

[@BradAngove]

3M makes decent masking tape. That’s what I typically use.

[@and._.rew30]

Hi. Will this be the same for a nitrocellulose lacquer top coat? Also, can sponges be used instead of the brushes?

[@BradAngove]

For lacquer in particular you need to use a brush. Make sure you use a brushing lacquer and not a mix that’s designed to be sprayed.

[@and._.rew30]

@@BradAngove but same process right?

[@BradAngove]

Yes

[@charlesharper7292]

Thanks Brad! Is Varthane available at home depot? And can it be applied over stain or dye?

[@BradAngove]

Yes and yes.

[@robertwatkins8220]

Thank you! Are you reusing the polishing pads?

[@BradAngove]

Yes I use the same pads for quite a while.

[@karenils8987]

Nice vid! Can i do this with a color and not get bleedout from the wood?

[@BradAngove]

It may damage the color work. Just apply the poly with a cloth if using over a stain or something like that.

[@karenils8987]

Brad Angove thanks👌

[@1blondied]

Is it atall possible to brush on a top coat on tanks ect and get a good finish ... I use an airbrush but haven't got the equipment to spray laquer to finish ?

[@BradAngove]

+Jacqueline Powter I would be very concerned about the brush messing up your airbrush work. I think you would be better off just getting a quality spray can.

[@frankchindamo6104]

What grit sandpaper do you use to sand the first and second coats of stain on a headstock?

[@BradAngove]

I like to use 320.

[@slimjramirez]

What's the slot for between the bridge and neck p/u cavities?

[@BradAngove]

To feed the wire through.

[@vintagestrings6]

Great Channel and videos. I'm going to be finishing a new Alder body Strat in the next few weeks. What I'm looking to do is to achieve a wine red finish. I was thinking about going to Stewart MacDonald and getting some color tone stain. I was told to mix up some red and blue to achieve that color. Do you think I should get some wood filler apply that in and sand it off maybe get some highlights in the wood and then apply the mixed stain into the body or put some sanding sealer on there first? Also was thinking about using the Varnish in this video or maybe some wipe on poly after that. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks Thanks for your efforts and good luck.

[@BradAngove]

Are you able to spray your finish on? If you are, I’ve got a different technique and product that would probably serve you better.

[@vintagestrings6]

Brad Angove Thanks for the reply. I believe Stew Mac has a product that will allow me to mix and spray. It's a jar with a throw away aerosol screw on top.

[@BradAngove]

Are you hoping for a nitro finish, or poly?

[@vintagestrings6]

Brad Angove I guess it didn't really matter. I was kind of hoping to use that wipe on poly or Tru oil. But I can spray it with nitrocellulose lacquer or poly.

[@BradAngove]

The problem with the wipe on stuff is it will look streaky with a tint in it. I suggest you have a look at the kandy kolor spray cans from house of kolor. Kandy Brandywine might be your best bet. They should be available through coastairbrush. If you want to stain, you can use the colortone and the a wipe on poly instead.

[@ericbgordon1575]

Pure bristle instead of sponge? I just purchased a small supply of clear semi-gloss lacquer and was advised to use a sponge brush in applying it. I just took delivery of a guitar kit in Olympic white, and my goal is to apply a single semi-gloss layer to its wooden parts (other than the fingerboard). Less after a wet look than a single, protective layer.

[@BradAngove]

Double check online because if I remember correctly lacquer responds better to synthetic bristle. I would use sponge, it may actually melt with the lacquer thinner haha.

[@ericbgordon1575]

Nice retort,@@BradAngove. Thank you for the response.

[@BradAngove]

For that last sentence I meant I wouldn’t use sponge because of the melting haha.

[@ericbgordon1575]

That's what I thought you meant. Thank you@@BradAngove.

[@jeramypounds5742]

Would it be advised to polish a matte/satin finish to get rid of any imperfections, or would that add to much sheen?

[@BradAngove]

If you did that it wouldn’t really be matte/satin anymore.

[@butterbean2523]

That finish looks fantastic. But I can't find that particular Varathane product around here. Would another product work just as well? Maybe regular polyurethane?

[@BradAngove]

I’ll be testing out another brush on polyurethane very soon that should be available online through the amazon link that I’ve put in the descriptions of my more recent videos.

[@richardk8313]

If a 2 inch brush is not ideal what do you recommend, a 2.5 in brush? Thanks.

[@BradAngove]

A wide brush is best for the top. 2.5 - 4 is good. The 2 or 2.5 is usually good for the edges if you’re doing them as well.

[@Gledii]

Maaan, this came out great. i tried with some lacquer in Germany but it didnt dried properly, even after weeks i´ve got a sort of sticky finish in some parts. do you know by chance how this gloss finish is called in europe? thanks a lot

[@BradAngove]

See if you can find a urethane clear coat. That’s what this is essentially.

[@Gledii]

@@BradAngove i can get polyurrthane. I did with acrylic and was crap. Btw. Do i habe to send off the whole finish or can i brush it on the top of it? The sticky parts i habe removed by sanding already

[@BradAngove]

It depends on what you’re going to put on it. Usually you would sand it all off.

[@james_Apple27]

Would a water based finish be cheaper?

[@jackkiefer569]

If I were to do a second coat, what grit sandpaper (dry or wet) would you recommend?

[@BradAngove]

600 dry

[@xbeautifuldiscordx]

Would this wipe on poly be a problem with Keda dyes applied with a water mix?

[@BradAngove]

I don’t think so. I haven’t tried that combo specifically though.

[@BradAngove]

Don’t use sandpaper if you’re doing that though.

[@xbeautifuldiscordx]

@@BradAngove I actually have decided to go with the SOS system after watching your videos with the precision guitar kit. Essentially the same thing I’m doing. So thank you for that one too! 👍🏼

[@BradAngove]

Glad I could help. Great choice.

[@alanhodges9435]

What type filler do you use to fill a deep dent in the surface from something falling against the guitar?

[@BradAngove]

If it’s really deep I like to use bondo because it has a hardener.

[@alanhodges9435]

When I say deep, I mean relative to the thickness of the wood on the face of my Yamaha acoustic. Can this be repaired without refinishing the whole face of the guitar?

[@BradAngove]

If it’s small enough for you to drop fill it with lacquer then yes. Dan Erlewine has a video on how to do that.