How To Pick The Best 3D Printing Slicer (For You)

[@UncleJessy]

Ahhhh didn’t realize Cura didn’t play nice with the M1… explains why it’s so gah awful for me to use

[@EdGodoyPlana]

Cura 5.0 is now fully compatible with the M1 Apple Mac chip. I have been using the Cura 5.0 with my 2021 MacBook Pro with the M1 chip and it’s working great!

[@manuelmrosa]

@@EdGodoyPlana but is running On rosetta

[@EdGodoyPlana]

@@manuelmrosa ; I see no issues at all! It’s running great on my MacBook Pro!

[@bigdogkmc]

I started off years ago using cura. Up until almost a year ago I tried out prusa slicer and and liked it better. Then I learned about super slicer and gave it a go. Been using it as my only slicer. What keeps me with super slicer is the whole thing loads and operats faster. The other is super slicer for me handles flow rates the best over the others.

[@macdox69]

Same. I kept Cura around for tree supports but somewhere Super Slicer supports changed and they work so much better and I haven't needed tree supports in Cura anymore.

[@slickricky769]

I want to try the SUperslicer but does it not support the Bambu 3D printer? I can't find the settings for it

[@peircedan]

I have been using Cura for almost a year. Using version 5.1 now. Works for my stuff. I prefer tree supports as they are easy to remove and usually end up where I want them without intervention.

[@UncleJessy]

Simplify3D user here… closest is ideamaker… my biggest issue with Cura / Prusa slicer is supports… s3D still does it better than almost any of those other slicers

[@ModBotArmy]

I used s3d for a couple of days so didn’t get a chance to dive into supports. What do you like better about their supports? Is it custom placement? Better/algorithm for placement? Easier to remove? You should try Prusa Slicer supports with the snug feature. I have had really good results with it 👍.

[@condorman6293]

@@ModBotArmy As someone grandfathered in to using s3d for a Prusa print farm, the custom placement is certainly the only good part. Something only power users recognize is that the support grid is generated in relation to the bed, not the part. Each part's positioning on the bed determines where the support grid is created in relation to the part. So, each duplicated part could have slightly different supports because of where the grid is in relation to them. To test, look specifically at where the support is placed, then shift the part a tiny bit along x or y and you'll see the support move. S3D also has no support blockers, so if you need to remove support from an area you need to click and click and click and click... You also can't change support line width or fan (or many other settings) unless you have a second process specifically for it, which is a huge hassle to set up. I'm sure there are many more issues that I just can't think of, and that's just supports. S3D is so lacking in features, even trivial shit like aligning the z seam is a nightmare or impossible some times. I could go on and on about its faults. Best thing about it is making multiple profiles for a single print. No features are locked away behind tickboxes like PS/SS.

[@Charleshawn66]

Hello and TY for this good video. I got a Ender 3 Pro around 6 years ago and it fought me BIG time! I could print things like the test cube, small tugboat and flat X wing model with no problem. Anything taller than the tugboat would pop off the bed during the print. I watched a TON of videos on leveling and also tricks to make prints stick such as glue stick and hairspray applied to the bed. After a month I just gave up and cover it up so to keep it from gathering dust. It has sat there covered up for 6 years now. Fast forward to 4 days ago. I say a video put up and watched it on the NEW Anycubic Kobar 2 Pro. I watched it twice and was blown away with what seemed to have changed in 6 years since I bought my Ender 3 pro such as auto bed leveling already at 2 gen and it said print speed now at 10X and more stuff that I didn't know about yet. Yesterday I got my Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro after just 3 days. I put it together last night and during setup after calibration and the auto leveling it asked to do a test print and I clicked ok thinking it would be a cube or tugboat but in fact it printed the shark bottle cap opener perfectly. Just a little bit ago I had it print the tugboad and it came out perfect. 2 for 2, knock on wood! I then wanted to load the slicer software to try something taller off of thingyverse (don't even know if that's still a site) and on the USB stick it came with Anycubic Slicer and also PrusaSlicer 2.6.0. This is where Your video was found when I searched for those 2 vs each other. From your video PuraSlicer sounds great but you didn't speak about Anycubics slicer. I then saw this video is a year old. Is there any help you can give to me on picking a slicer or like you said use both, one as a backup if the 1st doesn't work. If which should be my main one that I use for a while until I learn how to use a slicer again. TY for your help.

[@privateassman8839]

Hey charles, "teaching tech" and "made with layers" are great channels to start with. Teaching tech has a whole step by step series under the "playlist" section on his channel, and made with layers goes extremely in depth into advanced printing topics. As for your ender 3 pro's poor prints, the issue is likely due to part annealing. I had the same issue printing ABS on my Ender 3E until I found a youtube video explaining why it was happening. Basically, materials have a property known as their "glass transition temperature." Below this temperature, they are solid. At or above it, they are liquid, and freer flowing/more able to arrange their internal structures and alleviate differential stress. When you push plastic through a print nozzle, it cools as it exits, but the constricting of the filament through the smaller hole imparts a stress on it. If the plastic cools below its glass transition temperature too quickly, those stresses imparted on it will be trapped, and fight eachother, leaving the extruded material warped. The solution is upping the ambient temperature. Printing outside in the sun is generally enough, but for indoor printing you can get a print enclosure to keep the air near the part hot. Even making a 1.5" high wall around the print area with masking tape on the print bed was enough to stop warping. Give that a try, and please, dig up that poor ender 3 of yours. It's still worth saving 😁

[@xManzi]

For start, use slicer that you like later if you find something better switch. But what you always want to do is check your g-code after slicing just to inspect if there is anything weird inside.

[@robinhandelman9228]

First some background: I have been in the IT world for over 40 years. Working in 3D modeling and printing since 2018. I have used all of the mentioned slicers and more (except for the Voron Prusa slicer clone, and SImplify3D) over that time. Here is some worthy things that I have learned: 1) Dial in your printer and learn it well. Start with several test/torture prints. Benchy is a good one to start with. 2) Do torture tests with each printer, filament, hotend, extruder, and build plate/surface you want to work with. (I know that's a lot of plastic. Make toys the kids in your area can use. It will be worth it in the long run). 3) Vary the hotend temperature, extrusion rate, and extrusion speed (motion) on each printer and filament combo to optimize print quality. Also, look out for the following: Any type of ringing of the hardware can make prints come out poorly. That can be minimized by tweaking the motion/speed of the print. Slowing it down to fix ringing/shift. Try slicing some torture tests, (there are lots of them out there), for your printer and setting it up to work best with each slicer. Seam placement. Get the slicer to place seams where you want them not linear unless you can hide them well. Retraction/Print Speed settings: Need to be adjusted for each filament that you are using. I usually print one of the stringing torture tests to fix those problems. Supports, find a happy medium with supports. This requires practice. Whether none, tree, painted, or other type of support. Just my 2 cents. RAH

[@GreySectoid]

How do you find time to print anything going through all this?

[@robinhandelman9228]

@@GreySectoid Remember all of my research comes from the great work of those that have come before me. Read a lot. Get good examples. And have LOTS of free time to do it. ;-) It helps to only work only on projects that I want to.

[@harrysheppard3745]

You sure they aren't called tree supports because they look like trees??

[@toddspeck9415]

Super awesome overview. Slic3r always worked so perfect for me. I tried so many things to get cura dialed on my machine, I always got this grinding overfeed with my hemera. I spent so many hours trying to figure out the grinding with Cura, I also use Simplify 3d but it never prints as well as SuperSlicer. SuperSlicer works so nice for me. Hats off to the O.G. slicer Slic3r.

[@SeanTaffert]

I've switched to SuperSlicer from Prusa and WILL NEVER GO BACK. I love SS.

[@PawelStaniczek]

Problem with SS is that it's maintained by a single person. Not only is it slow with updates, but there's a high risk that its development will simply stop at some point.

[@SeanTaffert]

@@PawelStaniczek The problem with Prusa Slicer is that they pretend as if it is developed by one person.

[@dtaggartofRTD]

SuperSlicer is my preferred slicer. I do keep cura and the mainline PrusaSlicer on hand for specific tasks. If Cura didn't tie support offset to the layer height I could see switching back to it as my primary slicer. Tree supports are rather handy.

[@protege5703]

I'm pretty new to 3D printing as I only purchased my first printer a couple of months ago, a Prusa Mini+. I'll be sticking to Prusa Slicer for quite a while until I'm experienced enough to try something else. Thanks Modbot for this video and the others I've watched since I got into this space as I find them quite engaging and informative.

[@PawelStaniczek]

One thing where ideaMaker really shines is the ability to change almost any setting on a per layer basis. You can't for example change fan speed at given height in SuperSlicer.

[@Blooest]

You can add arbitrary g-code to change absolutely anything you want at any layer in Prusa/SuperSlicer. Granted, that's not as user-friendly, but it absolutely has the capability.

[@PawelStaniczek]

@@Blooest This doesn't help, as Prusa/SuperSlicer will change the fan speed within a layer because of overhangs, supports, external perimeters etc.

[@Blooest]

​@@PawelStaniczek You should probably consider disabling the auto-cooling logic if you're planning on manually messing with the fan speeds...

[@Thomllama]

@@Blooest yay, but you still dont really get control of them, Ideamaker lets you control speeds and ramp up in any way you wish. Both Cura and P-slicer just ramp up layer by layer till full (set) speed. With Ideamaker it is wicked useful with warpy materials as you can hold a slower speed for much longer to clear the bed before ramping up which keeps the bed from cooling from the fan!

[@Thomllama]

@@Blooest you can do that with gcode from any slicer, so that’s not really a feature.

[@Know-Way]

Been using Cura, but really want to give SuperSlicer a try. The only thing holding me back is, that I really like Tree Supports. There's still a lot of room for improvement and features in slicers, so I'm not in a hurry to chase the latest and greatest.

[@ashtree129]

Prusaslicer (and I believe superslicer) has tree supports under the organic support type

[@Sortexx19]

@@ashtree129 this is in the new version

[@GuysShop]

Prusa Slicer and Super Slicer for me. I am going to give Cura a try when the new version is out of beta

[@ModBotArmy]

It’s out of beta 😊. I believe as of just this past week.

[@GuysShop]

@@ModBotArmy Yeah, I saw that. Have it installed and will play with it a little bit.

[@fisheye3d1727]

I use all the slicers, Ive found for different printers and prints I get better results pairing certain printers to a specific slicers after doing tests or if im doing model vs engineering prints that will call for different slicers

[@philipgriffiths5090]

Really useful overview. Thank you. I am new to 3D printing. I have a Flashforge Finder3, bought on special. I subsequently found out that it is the previous model. I have been using the Flashprint slicer, as recommended. It is a very easy slicer to use but there are some challenges. Because it is not open source, there are not many resources out there and the documentation is terrible. It has limited views, so diagnosing faults can be hit and miss for a new user. I definitely agree with your point about learning one slicer but having a second slicer on hand to check for problems.

[@Thomllama]

Try supports in Ideamaker, you can place them, customize them, what ever, but the key is to use “concentric” for infill. Most supports are on a pre determined grid pattern laid out on the bed, not the model! If the actual low spot is inbetween that grid, it doesnt get supported. Ideamaker concentric bases the pattern from the low spot working out. MUCH better that the others! Cura tree supports in theory is very cool, but I played with it for days and never got it to function well. I know its a settings thing, but Ideamaker’s is simply much easier!

[@cmtravis13]

Agreed, I do really like that feature in Ideamaker, also with the ability to rotate the model to minimize the amount of supports to save time. Example on busts, I will rotate the model so the supports under the chin will be around 45deg and rests on the chest rather than go all the way down to the build surface. I think PrusaSlice does the same but never played with that feature.

[@paintballercali]

Pretty easy choice for me does it have tree supports?

[@keithsmodelsandrcs6593]

Im only learning past 1yr so i believe it or not only got hang of it about 10 videos back on my small modeling channel exactly why i baught a 3D printer for car parts and figures and garage stuff but really know what im doing to the printer and pc both new to me i use chitubox but cause newest settings ware not working for me i went back way back to easier one that worked which is chitubox 1.6.5 and yep i know its old bro even probably for the elegoo mars pro but i get 98%time successful prints but i am wanting to get a bigger build plated printer which could be the elegoo mars pro 3 maybe or one other ones but eatherway ill still be learning i only take it every day as it comes on days i use it it is bit messyer been resin but i rather resin printer over filament printer cause of the texture it leaves ye know anyway thanks for sharing ur knowledge and work its guys like u iv been leaning off i was just on wit uncle jessys live i entered giveaway from elegoo ha ha but not this time but his channel is awsome helpfull too why im subbed to u. Guys very helpfull info thanks guys👍Keith

[@kevinsquibbs8415]

I started with voxelab slicer and went to cura slicer then went to prusa slicer that us my main slicer that I use

[@cmtravis13]

Great video, my daily driver is S3D but will use PrusaSlicer and Ideamaker based on what I am printing. I will use Prusaslicer for its "pause at layer height" feature as it is very easy to do. For Ideamaker, I will use it for printing busts and statues as I have a custom profiles created by Chris Warkocki and its support feature is great. For everything else, I use S3D. For me S3D prints the best first layer which equals far less failures than the other 2 slicers I use. I started out on Cura back in 2018, but after purchasing S3D a few months later, never looked back.

[@LT72884]

I have used ssuper slicer, prusa slicer, slicer, cura, s3d, kis slicer, xyz printware, ideamaker, makebot slicer, and then mater hackers slicer. To this day, i use ideamaker since i find it the best over all the ones i have used. I can print each object with its own settinga, etc. Ideamaker can do everything prusa slicer can and more. The texture feature from a jpg is awesome as well. You can do modifier meshes, manual supports, per object settings, cut opperations, boolean opperations such as union and subtract.

[@ChinaAl]

started with the repetier with my first Delta printer in 2018. I didn't like either. 1 month later Tevo Tornado and Ideamaker. I really liked Ideamaker. Then I found out about S3D. Used a trial then purchased it. S3D ha been my go-to slicer. I tried Cura but didn't like it. Tried Prusa Slicer but extremely hard to learn for me. I still have it though alone with Ideamaker (not used for a long time) Still my main one is S3D. Really nice video, thanks

[@twincast2005]

3:50 Would've been important for newbies to note that everything on the "Marketplace" is free. 4:25 *who Cura+Marketplace and Prusa/Super are both great and each has some unique standout features. Generally I prefer Cura. Only thing I hate is that you can't add extruders to an existing profile. I found Ideamaker's UI horrible. And it's quite slow on my PC. Thus I quickly moved on again. (And while it's optimized for dual extruders, it's uniquely incapable of more than two.) Kiri:Moto is a browser-based slicer for 3D printing, CNC milling, and LASER cutting, and has a solid performance.

[@kylequinn1963]

I just jumped to Prusa slicer from Cura 5.1 with my ender 5 plus to see if the issues I'm having are slicer related. So far, it kind of looks like it was an issue with Cura. The printer keeps stopping randomly during the print for no apparent reason. I've tried damn near everything, swapping slicers is my last resort at this point. At least with Prusa, if it does stop I can pretty easily just cut the model at the right height and glue them together a lot easier than in Cura lol

[@jcfpv3454]

Thanks for all the great videos

[@Lusanagi]

I used Cura since I started to 3D print in 2020, but the has always been something that bothered me about it: using infill for really small gaps and dome like models don't come up as nice (lines aren't well placed at times and you can see gaps), then I found prusa slicer and alleviated the 2 gripes I mentioned with cura, and started using it as a side slicer when cura either took too much time due to the small infill (prusa slicer does gap fill by doing thinner or fatter lines) or if my model is dome like; enter super slicer, and that has been my default slicer since, althouth the supports aren't always the best. Now than ura 5.0 beta with arachne engine is out the infill part is way better since it now dowsnthe same gap fill as slic3r forks, nut haven't used it much

[@williamwiese9963]

I started out with Supersclicer, now im just over whelmed. Think ill give Cura a go. I like the tree support option for saving filament.

[@Astreyah]

My husband and I just purchased our first 3d printer and also a mac laptop for it as well. We ended up getting the Lotmaxx Shark V3. It has been a nightmare. The Lotmaxx has Cura as its slicer but we can't get the macbook to talk with the printer. I ended up finding out it's because our processor is an M1. Then your video confirmed that.

[@agarza6475]

Started with Cura but moved over to PrusaSlicer most of the time. I do play around with SuperSlicer every once in a while and once I get more comfortable with it I will probably switch over.

[@VariableSeams]

I was hoping you would have gone over Orca Slicer as well - great video though! :D

[@photelegy]

I'm torn between SuperSlicer (SS) and PrusaSlicer (PS). I really love all those possible settings of SS (especially with a IDEX-printer). But I also really love the new features from the PS with OrganicSupports, MeassuringTools, TextOnObject, ...

[@toddspeck9415]

Had to mention this. I recently cut out a piece of 1/8 inch polycarbonate, that fits over my flex plate. Best thing I ever did. All I do is clean it with windex. The filament just sticks so perfectly and comes off so easily. This is on my Elite Machine Works Ultimate Xl. Peace out.

[@als4817]

Thank you for posting, going to try your idea.

[@printerpr0n]

Love Cura but every major release has been too buggy to use. Same with 5. Some models are scaled incorrectly on opening. Same model that sliced fine in V4 has strange mid air print lines. Wasted weeks with 4 and failed prints just to go back to 3 until 4 had a few patches and was solid and it appears I'll be doing the same with V5. The amount of bugs listed on github for the 5Beta release were excessive and they went and released it anyways.

[@substratum3d]

Same here, Cura 5 prints random layers without actually extruding. Once I figured out it was cura 5 I decided to try the new prusaslicer alpha. Been switching back and forth between that and Cura 4.13.1.

[@Jerason]

I am super new to 3D printing and am using cura. I have no clue what I’m looking at when using it as I haven’t really been able to take a deep dive into it. I just know that an stl has to be “sliced” and turned into gcode in order to print. So again very new. But your videos are great and have helped me a lot with new installs and picking upgrades. Currently using Ender 3 V2 with sprite pro and CR Touch. Switching from sprite pro to micro Swiss direct drive tho. The pro is too bulky and the pro build quality doesn’t justify the price. Also am using JyersUI.

[@elidari60]

I am finally decided to replace my 3D printer and I am purchasing Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro so my question is, can I use my software from Prusa that I’ve been working with all these years? If your answer is yes, I cannot see the printer on their list of printers, so which printer should I choose? That makes the slicer work thank you very much Eli

[@harryhino2267]

I have only been 3D printing for a few years (since I retired) and have only used Cura. With V5, Ultimaker have removed support for my 4 year old OS (Xubuntu 18.04) 😭 so I'm actively looking for another slicer. This video is very, very timely. 👌

[@ego5267]

What did you went to? Been using cura and I've turned to use linux now and cura glitches many times

[@ronm6585]

Cura and PrusaSlicer. Thanks for the video.

[@davidyoung8105]

I looked on the Cura site. I found no driver for FLSUN V400. I'm sure it's right in front of me somewhere. Thanks for the great video!

[@davethetaswegian]

SuperSlicer for me. It plays nicely with Klipper, including being able to directly send and start a print without any exporting to a file and loading into something like Octoprint, or, horror of horrors, saving to a SD card.

[@Millenniumworkshop]

How much ram do you have on your Mac? Need a new computer and not sure what to go with I’m getting a Mac but what ram

[@TheStrangeSky]

Great video. I've been using cura, prusa slicer and super slicer, I found that on some models each slicer produced different quality with the exact same print setting's, its why I used all three, BUT as of cura 5.0 all three slicer have removed the PRINT TO USB function from their slicer. From what I can gather a lot of people, myself included, found this feature extremely useful since we only have one printer and print when we need to print. The reasoning for this removal from the devs doesn't make any sense from what I can gather their reasoning is because it was buggy and the devs don't use this feature so the users shouldn't either even though it was very useful to a lot of people and a lot less buggy then the devs made it out. what do you think of this feature being removed.

[@expertshooter2055]

You can use octoprint, I have mine setup on a windows pc

[@TheBlueFinisher]

The New Creality Slicer 1.2.3 seems close to Prusa slicer. how do you feel about it?

[@johnpekkala6941]

I use different slicers based on the features I need att the moment as no slicer have all features and functions in the same program. 2 of the most useful functions for me in slicers are slicing tolerance (Cura) for making PIP and things like threads and fully customizeable layer heights (Prusaslicer, Curas adaptive layer height in comparison gives u far from full control over where different layer heights should actually be placed on the model)

[@TwistedSisterHaratiofales]

I am modeling in Blender and putting the pieces in Chitubox, and I get things and walls and areas where it fills in where there is nothing there. I think this is happening in the slicer and not Blender although I may be wrong. Any Thoughts?

[@onesadtech]

Not sure if you have found the answer by now as I see this is a month old, but I was having similar issues and it turned out my model/STL file has errors. There are various STL fixing sites and applications that can fix the file for you automatically. I found one on Google for free on a site called formware, it worked great for my model. Hope this helps. :)

[@TwistedSisterHaratiofales]

@@onesadtech I will try it as I haven't found a solution to it. Its mind numbing because I need the pathways if I want to put wires for lights in the models, so I just cant have random walls show up where I didn't model them. I will check out the formware thing, Thank You.

[@TwistedSisterHaratiofales]

@@onesadtech one more question for you if you don't mind. What software do you model in?

[@onesadtech]

@@TwistedSisterHaratiofales No worries, hope it helps. I do most of my modelling in SketchUp, but I'm learning to use FreeCAD currently. :) I also use Blender occasionally as I do have a little bit of background in animation, but only once for 3D printing that I can think of.

[@TwistedSisterHaratiofales]

@@onesadtech It really helped out. I like their slicer also.

[@ERNEST-i8h]

what is the best slicer for Tronxy crux 1 3D printer?

[@jasonpatterson2703]

I started with KISSlicer. It was pretty great but afaik there aren't any add-ons or plug-ins, atleast not on the free version. After about a year of 3d printing I recently started the transition to cura.

[@ogh1332]

How can we measure volumes (3-d measurement) using 3-D Slicer?

[@burlinherron]

I used cura since I been 3d printing but I guess it's just up to you and what you are printing

[@0010plays]

i started using cura but had some issues with rounded objects becoming a bunch of straight lines in the shape of a circle and after a while i tried prusaslicer and that resolved that issue and many more i'm on an ender 3 v2 btw i can now print at much higher speeds with more consistent results but it does depend on the printer you have and personal opinion

[@alanwu8476]

I too have the same problem with Cura 5.3. Cura 5.2 doesn't have the same problem. Anyway I am using Super Slicer from now.

[@skyrider4789]

Thank you for this helpful video! :)

[@dinodolic2270]

which slicer is the best for elegoo neptun 3 pro?

[@4x4wolver]

i want to try prusa slicer but running windows 7 what version of prusa should i get ?

[@Catalysis1144]

Started with slic3r ,, tried cura and didn’t like it.. tried prusa which looked familiar after using slic3r but after trying Ideamaker never looked back.

[@The_Traveling_Clown]

ideamaker works well with the ender3 v2??

[@PawelStaniczek]

I've used ideaMaker with modified Ender 3 Pro (direct extruder) and was able to tune the profile to create perfect prints IMO

[@toolzshed]

Is Matter Control good?

[@mcorrade]

So I really really really wanted to like Prusa slicer and I've tried it over and over again but every time I print a file in Prusa I get stringing where I don't with Cura. I can't find why this happens so for now I'll stay with Cura......I will keep trying Prusa though as its still installed.

[@robinhandelman9228]

It really sounds like the profile for your printer needs to have the retraction adjusted for the filament that you are using. BOTH settings are adjustable. I usually print one of the stringing torture tests to fix those problems. You might try dialing that in. I have several different brand printers (including Prusa). I use Prusa Slicer for most everything. Tweaking a slicer is a skill. No doubt. Also, Most people do not take into account how old/wet their filament is. All of the hydrophilic (water loving) filaments suck up water like a sponge and operate very differently after taking on water over time. Keeping PETG, ABS etc. dry is paramount. But PLA can even take on water to make stringing and spiting issues onto your prints.

[@mcorrade]

@@robinhandelman9228 good suggestions but it doesn't take into account that I can print the same file, same filament using 2 different slicers and get dramatically different results. Cura never fails me. I will of course try prusa slicer again and trying tweekig the settings.

[@Blenzo480]

I cant get Cura to work on Linux. The app image just crashes when i try to open a file and the one in the Void package repo is broken because it uses a depreciated python module. I tried to get it to work with a python3.11 virtual environment but for some reason its still trying to run with version 3.12.

[@lornelorne5727]

There's a modern Flatpak available on Flathub. No need for the AppImage. Cura works just fine if you use the Flatpak.

[@tescoprimark1299]

Anyone can recommend the best slicer for Tronxy x5sa pro 400? Printing size is 330x330x400 thanks

[@windworldwide8840]

i made a surprising discovery ! ... new cura 5 had a better quality on some parts, ... but worst on hollow 2 walls parts !! (simple tube, 2.5 cm dia, 0.8 thick) ... i then compare it to prusa, and saw that cura was doing a lot of back and forth movements !! while prusa was going round, beeing less shaky !

[@robinhandelman9228]

Any type of ringing of the hardware can make prints come out poorly. That can be minimized by tweaking the motion/speed of the print. Slowing it down to fix ringing/shift. Try slicing some torture tests for your printer and setting it up to work best with each slicer. It makes for a good learning experience.

[@krystalshocked]

"Slick three are" i've always read it as "slicer 3" kinda how DRIV3R is "driver 3"

[@demonprincess5634]

i been using creality slicer for the past 3 years, never used anything elas.

[@kenopyowo]

I wanna try prusaslicer but i've used cura for so long and i'm not sure if its worth it to switch. also since cura 5.0.0 released and it seems to be pretty good

[@poplix2704]

I say dont change unless you have an good reason for it. For example, my prints looked way worse on cura no matter what settings.

[@Favmir]

In my experience: Prusaslicer - cannot open gcode file for preview + adjustable skirt height + fast, stable and clean + variable layer height and paint on supports are awesome Cura + get new cutting edge options(lighting infill, variable width etc.) - slow loading

[@sagichnicht6748]

@@Favmir The latest Prusaslicer can in fact open gcode files for preview without any problems. The current version of Prusaslicer also features important new features of paint on support, paint on colour and improved support design. The only downside so far I know of is that in terms support creation it is not as feature rich as Cura. Prusa Slicer does work perfectly fine with Vorons too, even though most seem to prefer the SuperSlicer fork.

[@suryanandanmahesh767]

Cura is the best

[@waynefilkins8394]

creality slicer is fk'd. Doesn't even build supports when u turn them on lol . Now I need to find a way to get the ender 3 s1 settings from creality slicer to cura....lmk if anyone knows how pls

[@doyouflytoo]

SuperSlicer for my Voron's. Checkout BoxZero and Tri-Zero upgrades for you V0.1!

[@EndDayz]

Bambu x1 will get us on slic3r again happy days!

[@neoprint3d]

prusa slicer works really nice with creality machines

[@michaelgrupa7754]

Cura 5 is great!

[@carlosef8]

Been using idea maker for 7 years hard to use anything else

[@paytonruth714]

Super slicer for the win

[@Drew_Cast]

Thank you seems like the video to watch

[@TwistedSisterHaratiofales]

So here is a sample of what I am making with an Anycubic M3, and M3 Max so far: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pZWmn3ptlL6pgLM

[@gowther6419]

Cura is offline, whoopdy damn dooo

[@beauslim]

Prusa vs Cura is kind of like Mac vs Linux to me: PrusaSlicer for other people's designs that I want to "just print". Cura for my own stuff that I want precise control over.

[@usefullprintables]

When you are new with prusa slicers you can't find anything .I don't like it personnaly.

[@Guy_Sandler]

My friend refuses to use anything other then a creality slicer 💀

[@MADEIN3DPRINTING]

💖

[@GoldenJaguar3D]

cura gang here

[@vidarvegger]

" Early last year I picked up a Mac" ...why though?

[@CreatureCribs]

Flash print

[@polybiusv7299]

this guy said LIBERRY

[@alexanderscholz8855]

Bed levling! Nothing more and nothing less, sorry!

[@Phattie763]

Cura is great buy crashes amd computers in less than 5min no idea why but it is the only program that doesn't like AMD and asus

[@Swedenvoice1]

Cura is the BIGGEST GARBAGE... I would not even install it for money.... but i looking for a good slicer... any suggests ?

[@EndDayz]

Linux is the best way forward..

[@FranGeronimoRambado]

dude. stop. saying. the word. slicer.

[@CakeKatVR]

thats what its called tho

[@lokisullivan469]

He says slicer way too many times…

[@anthonyfrisella180]

LIE-brary. Not LIE-barry

[@digitalloom9349]

if you use a mac, stop :)

[@jnkmal9519]

did he not mention creality slicer, or did I miss something?

[@gowther6419]

Honestly, why would he?