Chasing and Repairing Damaged Threads

[@JlerchTampa]

First time I ran a lathe (and got paid for it) was when the normal guy was out sick, Shop owner says "Lerch, can you run a lathe?" I say yes, he says "here, go chase these threads out." and hands me a big expensive looking stud off something. Thankfully the lathe is in a corner and I have a little privacy while I try to figure out how to do what I said I could do but had never done. 15 minutes later and I was spinning the chuck by hand with the half-nuts engaged making sure the tool was following the threads properly and just kissing both sides of the thread. Satisfied I went for it and it turned out great. Next day the normal guy gets an ass chewing because he claimed the lathe was too clapped out to chase threads. I got 'lucky' because my first timid hand powered cut took out all the backlash (and there was a lot) and I literally didn't know to be worried about it! JLerch - Tampa, FL.

[@martinwhittaker9860]

Joe it’s MARTIN from ENGLAND JOE I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW WHAT YOUR COMENT IS ON THIS Joe I have and do mount the work piece in a collet and center drill the end or nose of the threaded end. Then remount the work piece in a four jaw chuck. I keep a length of ground 1/8” dia silver steel with a pointed end witch I mount in my drill chuck in the tail stock ,this is then slid up to the work piece and inserted in the center drilled hole I can then put the Stylus of my clock on the silver steel near the pointed end that is in that is in the center drill hole. It has worked for me on a variety of different jobs. Once the job is running true I can use a live centre to support the work piece. Joe I have found you’re videos very enjoyable, as for your presentation you get a 10/10 . Please keep going, Martin

[@punkeewalla6195]

Dude, I'm impressed. I've been been on single and multi spindles since 1979. I only started programming and setting Miyano cnc lathes 4 years ago. I thought I was pretty good at this, but you showed me what I liked most about this trade. You learn something new every day.

[@jerryfranklin9649]

Very nice job, if you only knew how much you help us beginners, thank you for your excellent instructions.

[@joepie221]

Glad to help

[@mxcollin95]

The idea of lighting the threads from below makes a huge difference in my dimly lit garage workshop...great tip!

[@ingvarlnilsson]

Hello Joe, I really like your explanation when you describe a thread as a train with several carriages ! Cheers from Ingvar, retired service engineer in Sweden (and a hobby shop in my garage among some vintage motorcycles)

[@joepie221]

Thats important to visualize.

[@rbfreund]

Hi, Joe, me again (Prof at UT). Every time I run into an interesting challenge, I seem to find your videos to help me out. I was needing to VERY ACCURATELY set back a precision-rifle barrel for rechambering which, of course, requires chasing the original threads so that the new threads match up. This video makes that a cinch! I don't know why I didn't think of making the compound slide parallel with the ways, stopping the machine part-way into the thread, and then adjusting with the compound (while the cross-slide was locked in with the half-nut). Brilliant idea. Thanks again.

[@rbfreund]

Sorry, meant carriage locked in with the half-nut.

[@joepie221]

For the most accurate positioning, be sure to have some drag on the handwheel when you shut the machine down. i always maintain some drag on the handwheel during threading to eliminate any wander of the pitch.

[@rbfreund]

@@joepie221 Will do. I already 'learned' to hold the cross-slide handle when threading for the same reason. My compound is okay, since I can adjust the tension fairly easily, but the cross-slide can be a problem sometimes. On a side note, do you drink wine? My family and I own a vineyard and winery (in Oregon) and since I am local to you, I would love to bring a few bottles by to show my appreciation for all you do on KZbin. Just let me know...

[@austin5035]

Your videos are awesome. I haven’t ran a manual in some years as I moved into CNC but recently got a job running manuals. Watching your videos has snapped me right back into what I had forgotten and more. Thank you, from WA state.

[@joepie221]

Glad to help

[@bruceanderson9461]

Your back lighting trick is great. I believe it is the same principle as an optical comparator. Using your threading technique of upside down insert on the back side of the thread would get rid of the pucker factor (crashing into the chuck or unthreaded portion of whatever you are chasing) if doing a conventional right hand thread. Your viewers should see your threading video if they haven’t yet. I always appreciate your videos. Southwest Minnesota USA

[@genehudson665]

Being an old toolmaker I've picked up threads many of times, You did a great job.

[@briangpz]

The first time I did this I was a freshman in trade school. 14 years old in 1980, and I had only single pointed a thread twice before. Our school used to take in jobs from local residents or businesses, and this shaft came in with a 9/16"-12 left hand thread that was mangled. It was a really long thread, about 18 inches. My instructor gave me some verbal instructions, and told me not to cut any metal until he approved my setup. I ended up using a follow rest to keep it running true. The first and last time I used a follow rest. Back in those days we had to grind our own tool bits from HSS blanks, which added to the complexity. He checked out my setup and gave me the OK. The part came out great, and I even got a compliment from my instructor. He was a great teacher, and a fair man, but he didn't give out compliments very often. Especially to underclassmen. I did a lot of jobs after that in trade school, and in the 40 years since, but for some reason I always remembered that one.

[@keithhansen3963]

A++++ as usual. Advanced professor of the internet. Interestingly enough, I have done this a number of times over the years but I still learn when watching your tutorials.

[@larrycollins3103]

Your instruction is utterly beyond compare. Thanks for taking the time away from your business to make the videos. Greetings from Gaithersburg, MD.

[@DEtchells]

*Great* video again, I came here from your comment on Adam’s video; this was very helpful. One of the first jobs I need to do on my lathe is to clean up come damaged threads on a clamp screw for a friend. (Loose tolerances, so good for a beginner like me.) First I need to actually cut some threads in the first place to learn the absolute basics, but this tutorial has me confident of success already :-) (The part about the slop in the gear train was a real lightbulb realization; I’m sure I would have blown the threads if I hadn’t seen this first!)

[@joepie221]

Glad you found this helpful.

[@thomaswielde110]

40 years of knowledge and you have it here........for all to absorb. Your channel and TOT’s videos are great. Thanks for your efforts.....THW. Colorado

[@TheTsunamijuan]

I may not be a machinist. But man i learn a lot from almost every single one of your videos. Thanks for taking the time to film and share your knowledge with us!

[@joepie221]

Thanks for watching.

[@kostasstamatakos1230]

Great video sir! Thank you. Actually sharing hard earned knowledge is not as common as one would expect but you do exactly that! (Athens, Greece).

[@FieryWACO]

"If I touch anything metric, I break out in a rash." I LOL'd

[@bruceandersen3803]

not the wright place to brag about your stupidity.

[@tonycstech]

I cried. Metric makes more sense then imperial measurements with feet. Who's feet are we taking into an account ? People on the dark side of the planet earth were little smarter to come up with a non human part measurement system.

[@mxcollin95]

Once again you mention a bunch of things I never would’ve thought of in a million years. Really interesting as always. 👍

[@paultrgnp]

Yeah same here. I get so much more than anyone else out of Joe's videos (cos I know so little about machining) that sometimes I feel guilty. 🤔😂

[@jmaks]

Indicating concentricity, just keep the half nut engaged and turn the chuck by hand, this will move the indicator in sync with thread.

[@johnswilley6764]

From Orlando, Fl, U.S.A Joe; we may be the favorite tourist destination, BUT you're the one we're watching! Excellent! Loved the analogy at the beginning; I've chased successfully before, but your in-depth rationale is flawless Sir. You are the Master. Best wishes!

[@joepie221]

Thanks.

[@mikemoore9757]

Threading is like two porcupines making love - slow and easy! I like the Joe Pie"s school of higher learning! As a suggestion, could you do a video on cutting a double,or a triple lead thread? I had to do a double lead once and it was kind of cool, and a challenge. I am 73 years young, and still learning. I really enjoy your videos, sir, and look forward to many more. You are never too old to learn something from someone that might be a little bit smarter than you!

[@philliphopkins6527]

It is the same old story, measure twice, cut once! And haste makes waste . Im a 70 year old tradesman and am still learning. BTW i am from Newcastle NSW Australia. Cheers, Phil Hopkins

[@heraldpotgieter2443]

Joe, I had to laugh when you made the comment about breaking out in a rash when you touch anything metric. This is how I feel about imperial stuff.

[@jamesstewart4677]

Only the best wishes from Lubbock, Tx, Joe. Everything you teach is world class.

[@joepie221]

Thank you.

[@tedfarwell9812]

How could you not find value in a lesson like that? Thanks again, Joe.

[@prodoverjeff2876]

Worked on enough old machines where thread files became my buddies. American guy from Rhode Island. Respects to Tex!

[@jeffanderson1653]

Pretty amazing. I searched this out as I need to extend a full depth thread. I have your lathe in the 15” version. Not bad for a 50 year old lathe. Thanks!

[@mrcustomblue]

Thanks Joe, I am not a machinist , but a mechanic and fabricator. I love you approch to solving problems Ontario Canada

[@ArmchairDeity]

Hey Joe! ❤️🇺🇸💙 I know this is an older vid, but I just realized I hadn’t seen it yet, so just watched it. And this was FANTASTIC! I love how you showed that you’re watching your timing and alignment all the way in to the half-thousandth and working to just barely graze away the whole surface. Of all your how-tos and “fixing bad behavior” videos… this one was IMO the most fascinating and opened the biggest window on what I call “the mind of a machinist”. Thanks bro!

[@joepie221]

Glad you enjoyed it.

[@donmathias1705]

I for years had trouble with long threads and long nuts. I took pride in being able to make good threads quickly. I was trained old school, making thousands of large shackle pins and big double start square threads for cone clutch actuators on winches. So on my new lathe a tight precise thread would be a nice fit for a few threads and then jam. I had to increase my clearance to get a long nut to spin on. I had checked the pitch using my dro and a stop against a jaw and it measured 6mm on the money in different parts of the leadscrew so the leadscrew being out of tolerance was eliminated. I had cause to service my drop down gears one day and check them. I had a good look at the intermediate gear set, a large gear and a small gear sharing the same axis caught my attention. On close inspection the face of the big gear was out of square to the axis by somewhere around .050". It was wobbling. It was an eureka moment. I dismantles it, machined up the problem face on the drive boss , put it back together. I had cause to make another long thread and nut a short time later and problem was solved. The wobble was effectively advancing and then retarding the lead-screw and as a consequence a nice tight thread was impossible. It was the only thing that bugged me about my lathe. All happy now!

[@philliphopkins6527]

Great vid joe,I liked the analogy of the train. In my neck of the woods we called it backlash. In that non-existant world where friction and clearance dont occur,it would be possible to take a cut on a thread and simply reverse the machine back to the start and the tool would track back perfectly (lol) However, the backlash would put the tool out of line and destroy the tread and possible the tool. A graphic demonstration of backlash would be to engage the half nut and rotate the chuck forward, then wind the cross slide till the tool is close to the work. Scribe a horizontal line on the workpiece level with the tip of the tool. Then rotate the chuck backwards (by hand) until the carriage just starts to move. Scribe another line similar to the first one. Unless you have a perfect (non-existant) machine there will be a gap between the two lines. This distance is the rotational backlash in the gear train between the chuck and the lead screw. Cheers, Phil from OZ

[@brandonlangevin6449]

Let me guess.... You work behind s curtain??? 😂🤣

[@philliphopkins6527]

@@brandonlangevin6449 s curtain ???

[@brandonlangevin6449]

Your signature line, Phil from Oz. Wizard of Oz.. man behind the curtain..i

[@philliphopkins6527]

@@brandonlangevin6449 Thanks Brandon, ive been called many things , but never "wizard" Cheers, Phil from OZ

[@thomashodge4287]

I’m sure the gun machinist apprentice at work could take the backlash out of the lathe. Anything is possible on overtime

[@thatoldbob7956]

Good show. I’ve done that many times on a10” Atlas but first I had to take the backlash out from the direction as the apron will go. You’re a true top machinist.

[@half-assedgarage6668]

Love when joe pie shows up. I needed to repair a large thread and had no clue where to start and no one to ask how. Stood at the lathe and stared at the part for what seemed like an hour to figure this out on my own. It was one of my prouder moments. 🤔😬

[@chrisstephens6673]

A useful demonstration, reminds me of a job I had where the owner used the wrong loctite grade to hold bearings in a Manx Norton crankcase. It set before the cases where fully together and he beat the crap out of the end of the shaft to release it, he was virtually in tears when I gave it back to him fixed. Just a point about losing registration, most lathes you can put the speed control into a neutral so you can turn the Chuck but because the lead screw is still directly geared to the spindle all will be well . I put up a video for you showing my threading tool flat measuring micrometer. In UK

[@fixitmakeit]

great balance of board theory backed up with excellent practical demonstration , you have a rare talent Joe . many thanks from Perth Western Australia .

[@robertoswalt319]

I have watched this video a couple of times and I seem to pick up on new things every time. Some times I learn techniques other times it is a nuance on a technique. Thanks Joe from the bottom of the Texas panhandle.

[@SVMistry]

Aftre 20:48 you shut the machine power. I generally like to rotate chuck with hand till the momentum of chuck gives up and matches it with all the slop in gear mechanism. And i like to use a thin sheet steel on the thread to indicate the thread gernal's concentricity. Bye the awesome demonstration keep it up. 👍👍👍

[@pditty5402]

I picked up 2 tips, light under the part and using bluing compound. Sounds like common sense after watching this. I know exactly how it is when you have to pick back up a thread, that first pass can sure make you pucker up! Thanks for the tips Joe, keep them coming! From Kansas USA

[@martinniemi3778]

suggesting to use a single thread measuring wire to check concentricity is a great trick! Much appreciated!

[@lynnelanguedoc4049]

Lové you joe it's so nice of you to share your knowledge I'm learning a whole lot from you.Tony from Canada 🇨🇦.

[@StripeyType]

This helped today - i got one of those aftermarket bridgeport power-feed units, but the dial holder threads were simply not deep enough to accommodate the dial lock nut. So I turned a mandrel between centers, mounted the aftermarket unit, and just went through this, a couple of thou at a time, checking the fit until it went on smoothly. Thanks!

[@guitar3d1]

Hi Joe, Best regard from Canada. I always had a big interest in metalworks and as i will be retiring very soon, my goal is to setup a small metal shop as a hobby. Your videos has been a big part of this, because of the quality information you give.us. Thanks a million time.

[@charlescartwright6367]

Aloha Joe, I have never moved the compound to be parallel to the work piece before, but it looks to be a great idea, next time I will. A new learning curve for an old dog, but it should speed thing up!!!! Again thanks for your time in sharing with us.

[@maciekm7953]

Thank You Joe. Your content is a pure gold👍 greetings from Poland

[@d.r.8868]

Great clip. I'm a traveling industrial boiler tech. I always carry 3 small hand files for repairing threads. Thought I was the only one...

[@wint3rsmith42]

5 mins in and already you've answered a question. I have a 1940s Colchester Triumph round head, and recently had a lot of trouble with threads not quite lining up. I never thought of all the baggy in the lathe drive train, I assumed it was saddle movement, now my saddle assembly is all in bits and if I hadn't seen this, I wouldn't have known what happened if the problem is still there. Every day is a school day

[@peterridgway7355]

Joe, great video. I have personally used thread form chasers in the tool post, with the same technique as you have used to dial in the tool position. Please keep making videos, they are just like catching up with some of the older hands. All that’s missing is a strong cup of tea. Thanks again Peter, Bristol UK

[@ChrisB257]

Great stuff Joe. This something that can always be a big challenge. One thing I find very useful on my old 11" lathe is use of a spindle handle - that way revolutions can be super slow and allow me to find backlash points etc.

[@worthdoss8043]

Great video on how to chase a thread, figured it out on my own some time ago.. ((Here is a fun fact.)) Yes you can take the lathe out of gear while threading if it is the spindle speed gears, I do it all the time to change speeds. You can test this on your lathe by putting the speed selector between gears and turning the spindle If the lead or feed screw still turns you wont lose timing. Should work the same on a South Bend belt drive too. At least on mine the feed direction selector and those after will throw you out of time .

[@sheemondallasgeorgia]

Hi Joe! This video is a classic. The value of the video is not in it's being timely, but in the teaching it provides. If I may, a careful examination will reveal that you chose to ignore alignment - the tool holder swivels, introducing errors, so is the compound slide. When you were creeping, you were just about correct at "47". A whole 0.003" before "50". This was not parent because of the "twist" in the setups. Regardless, he technique is excellent. I am from the USA, one state up from you. Thank you for the video! Simon

[@joepie221]

I appreciate your comment Simon, but when it comes to machining and more specifically threading, I don't ignore anything. My tool post is always indicated true to both axis of the machine and my threading tool is indicated square as well. There was no error or twist present.

[@cl4367]

Thank you Joe. This is something that I’ve tried many times with poor results. Makes so much more sense now.

[@Southpaw_Precision]

Joe, thank you for these videos. This one really helped correct a 16 tpi thread recently. Turned out perfect!

[@MrRaynemaker]

I worked in a bolt manufacturing and distributorship years ago. We serviced the petro-chemical plants on the Texas Gulf Coast.......and really, shipped all over the world. Some of the refineries stipulated that all studs had to have a nut installed on either end. One way we had of dealing with damaged threads on either the bolts or the nuts was to thread the nut on as far and as hand tight as possible, then bang the nut on something hard(concrete floor or steel plate). This would usually have the effect of forcing the damaged thread back into position. Sometimes just a smack or two would suffice, sometimes it took more. But I've never seen one that couldn't be saved. This worked on small bolts all the way up to anything you could pick up and swing.

[@HolzMichel]

interesting technique, do you smack the nut axially or radially? not trying to be a smartass, just really curious since i deal with damaged threads quite often in the woodworking machines i have to repair. your method would be a real time saver.

[@MrRaynemaker]

Generally, it didn't matter. I would say that the nuts usually were contacted on the diagonal; since you are not removing any material, but instead, gently? persuading the out of place material back into position.

[@HolzMichel]

@@MrRaynemaker thank you sir! i'll give that a shot next time i have something like that come up.

[@ScatManAust]

Shit! I thought that was my trick That's what I do. Works a treat most of the time

[@kappullen]

When I was an apprentice boy (1969) I watched an assembler of a coke oven pusher machine put nuts and bolts togather. He was rapping them togather on a piece of iron and loading them in his pockets. Being curious I asked what he was doing. He said he had to bolt this part Up there (third story level) and don't want to fight the bolts togather. This will knock the burrs off the bolts Making the assembly easier. This part was suspended by a twenty Ton crane. A pusher machine pushed the molten Coke out of the coke oven into a railroad car. A pusher machine ran on tracks serving banks of ovens up to a hundred coke ovens. Been doing it (rapping bolts) ever since that day. Even at NASA when the techs would seize a bolt and part togather, a sharp rap on a bolt with a hammer and a drop of oil could instantly break it loose. I could leave a message on their phone "Job done" before they got back to their offices. This one put me to sleepzzzzzz too. K

[@bencesarosi7718]

Hey there, Joe! I'm enjoying your uploads from Hungary. Thanks for another great explanation!

[@andyZ3500s]

127 country's that is pretty amazing Joe. That is quite a compliment to you

[@jimmilne19]

Greenland here. Love (and learning from) the videos, each one really great! Thanks for sharing.

[@hazzzee]

Thanks for the tuition Joe, I am a novice in the UK

[@messageobliquespe100]

Ahhh… fond memories of that blue dye some 40 years ago at school - scribing rude things on flat plate 😂 enjoyed the expertise demonstrated - 👍

[@carlpenney901]

Another great video! I think your video are great you have a class and then you give a demonstration THAT is what makes your video's so far a head from the others. Calgary Ab Canada.

[@joecolanjr.8149]

I have been patiently waiting for a new video....you never disappoint! Still learning everyday...thanks Joe!! New jersey,USA!!!

[@blakewerner4368]

thank you sir, i have always struggled with this operation. the train of thought you have presented makes it very understandable. North east USA

[@nicholasdautel1228]

I use snap-on tool thread files and they are my best friend. I started laughing when you showed it because I was thinking about thread files in the beginning of your video. Thank you.

[@tomeyssen9674]

Great video! I had to watch again. Turning the compound around IS A BIG DEAL.....GREAT. Thanks....-Tom (Knoxville)

[@captcarlos]

Thanks for all your efforts Joe, You help educate a lot of people. Australia, Oz

[@Just1GuyMetalworks]

Nice job😃! Had to figure this out the hard way a little while ago. Chipped a tool on an internal square thread with a stop at the end. For a newbie like me it was super frickin scary😬. Thanks to pros like you I was aware of the backlash issue and realigning the tool after sharpening works out great! So thanks for taking the time to help out newbies like me! 😊

[@dannyarendall5233]

It’s been 30;yrs since I chased threads , I think I used the compound set at 29.5 and adj. as though I were threading . I’ve be a small lathe it’s coming next mo. I’m going to try that . I know I’ve lost a lot of my skills but I think with a little practice I’ll get it back

[@gregbrodie-tyrrell3473]

You are a true professional, Joe, and I love your videos. Greg from Oakbank, in South Australia.

[@sblack48]

Another great video. Just as a matter of interest, if you have an electronic lead screw, i.e. It is driven by a servo or stepper based on the spindle position read by an encoder, that whole train thing goes away. Another advantage of an electronic lead screw.

[@Gottenhimfella]

As long as your leadscrew and half nuts are not sloppy.

[@sblack48]

@@Gottenhimfella but that applies whether you have an electronic lead screw or a gearbox

[@Gottenhimfella]

@@sblack48 indeed it does,, but if there is slop there, the procedure to address it needs to be adopted whether there is an electronic lead screw or not

[@sblack48]

@@Gottenhimfella exactly so therefore it is irrelevant to a conclusion about electronic leadscrews!

[@Gottenhimfella]

@@sblack48 It is relevant, however, to whether the "whole train thing goes away", because in such cases, the whole train effectively runs all the way to the carriage

[@ttabbal]

Great details on this one. I haven't had to chase one yet, but I feel like I could probably manage it now. I'll have to chuck up some aluminum and give it a try.

[@Vinreeb]

Hi from germany :) Great Video! At least on my machine (Weiler Condor W) the spindle is driven by the motor and the gearing stuff for the compount is driven by the Spindle... This means you can actually "push the train by hand" by just grabbing the chuck. Had to do that once to line up an Internal m30x1.5 thread... to my amazement it actually worked :D

[@timk.1395]

At 26:20 I saw three distinct chips, just as you said. And there they were, sitting there, all nice and neat, on the tool! Nice!

[@loydsa]

Joe, this was an excellent video. It's great to see something so well and patiently explained. This was new to me and something I will replicate and practice. Best Regards Sarah (UK)

[@steenkampsteenkamp6686]

Hi from Swaziland Been learning a lot from your channel! Thanks

[@gregdawson1909]

to indicate, lay a 12" scale against the part with the end sitting on the way against the v so it does not kick out, place your indicator against the scale on the center line of the part, and indicate like usual, you will do fine. we use this trick when straightening acme threaded rod.

[@joepie221]

I literally just learned something new. Thank you.

[@gregdawson1909]

@@joepie221 Ill have to tell My Uncle, Josh Ward, showed me that as a teen in the 90's, he will be tickled!

[@danielberei3021]

I was cutting a metric thread on an imperial lathe a few days ago and I was just wondering if I could dial back in as I accidentally disengaged the carriage. laziness took over and left the part in the chuck(still there)now I can go back and finish the part. Thanks Joe, learnt a lot from you. Daniel, UK, Sommerset(land of helicopters)

[@seantap1415]

Awesome vid.... I love that you're using some speed.I find that a lot of people do thread work at too low an RPM....

[@daveticehurst4191]

Only because it is a left hand thread and he is cutting away from the chuck into open air. A much different scenario if it was a towards the chuck, definitely a "Brown Trousers Job" if done at that speed. What is even worse is if you CAN NOT disengage the half nut due to either a bastard thread pitch or cutting metric on an imperial lathe or other way round.

[@dalemcinnes1834]

Watch Joe's video on threading right hand threads. I think he did left hand threads so he could use the camera and show his demonstration.

[@steveg069]

I've come to expect a great video from you time after time. Once again, you did not disappoint! Thank you for sharing.

[@joepie221]

Thank you very much for the compliment. I like to believe my viewers take something from every video.

[@paulkerst7446]

Joe- Once again , a super job . explanation , show of patience , super results. Thanks so very much !!! Blessings Paul Kerst USA PENNA.

[@TrevorDennis100]

I commented in one of the Tip Blitz videos that it could be useful to have a monitor on the wall behind your machine. Especially if you make videos anyway and have a camera with good close-up capability. Use older folk don't see as well as we used to - Lyle (Mr Pete) sometimes makes tiny errors that we can see on the video, but he could't see directly. This was another example where the benefit of the camera we could see that you were aligned just a couple of thou left of center. so it was no surprise when the tool shaved the left face on the last cut. I use magnetic trays to stop my bits and bobs falling off the mill slide, and I also have a decent Cree LED light mounted to it, which helps my old eyes (I'm 70). One day I'm going to take my own advice and add a camera as a real time microscope.

[@jamesdavis8021]

Another great video.Your lessons are invaluable to me. I look forward to every one.U.S.A.

[@dennyskerb4992]

Great looking shirt Joe. Nov.3 is coming up quick, you could probably walk to that track. You should CNC the track profile, make a great bottle opener.

[@5tr41ghtGuy]

Thanks so much for explaining and recording a practical example of this tedious process!

[@toolbox-gua]

I don’t miss any minute of your channel.

[@joepie221]

Thanks. I notice your comments.

[@stever4504]

Perfect Joe... just the way I was taught. Cheers from Perth Australia.

[@Rprecision]

Very applicable to gunsmith operations! I usually am doing this on the inside of female threads.Thanks,

[@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT]

I made a couple of thread repairs in my small lathe, much as you describe but, I never power the lathe - I turn the spindle by hand, which makes it much less nerve wrecking. Greetings from Portugal :-)

[@joepie221]

Awesome. Greetings from Austin Texas USA

[@markrichardson239]

Well, it may seem chicken, but you sure aren't going to screw anything up that way. So there is that. I like to thread as fast as my nerves can stand it, or as fast as the half nut will still drop in nicely, going for the finish. Still, on a one-off repair of anything I felt nervous about, or if I was feeling rusty... you couldn't go wrong turning by armstrong.

[@catfishinhuntin5557]

the way ive used to indicate on a thread before chasing it is an old job shop method. Get a scale, normally an 18" or 24" will be long enough if u run something larger than a tool room lathe, (i like to use a track scale for this because they are more rigid) and lean it against the thread, the other end of scale (the bottom end because scale will be oriented kind of vertically at this point) is trapped against the base of the trapezoidal way geometry so it leans against the thread with a degree of stability, indicator goes on the scale in line with the workpiece sandwiching the scale between the indicator probe and the threads. Rotate the part and the scale will rise and fall with the t.i.r. of the thread crests. Thats my way and i thought i might share it

[@stefancronje9870]

Great tips to keep in mind! Keep the awesome videos coming and huge thank you for the time taken to create them :) Regards, Stellenbosch,South Africa

[@joepie221]

Thanks. I had over 2 hours of raw footage for this one. It was tough to cut down.

[@outsidescrewball]

AWESOME.. discussion/demonstration....can’t read that in a book!!!.....like the tip running the compound “in line”, sure wish I knew that in the past....ATB

[@christopherlease]

Great Video I learnt so much and can't wait to practice thread chasing! Chris UK

[@billwilson7782]

Thanks, Joe. I learn so much from you every time.

[@edh.9153]

Perfect! You are an excellent instructor! Thank you for taking the time to produce these videos. Ed Hicks SW Mo.

[@LambertZero]

Speaking of indicating a thread, I think Keith Fenner showed a little trick in one of his videos. He was indicating a thread over a gauge block hanging freely on a piece of masking tape. I believe the idea is to average out all the high spots and low spots over the surface area of the gauge block. I suppose it's a bit fiddly, but less work than making a sleeve for the thread to indicate it. Thanks for the video, it's very informative. Checking in from Russia. Cheers. :-)

[@frase1234]

Brendan here from Melbourne Australia again, Joe you are TURNING a hack like myself into a pro Machinist :) Cheers

[@joepie221]

Outstanding.

[@bostedtap8399]

Great job Joe. Best regards from the UK. Thanks for sharing.

[@steveallarton98]

Bosted Tap Yo’ bin from the Black Country ay ya, ma mon ?

[@bostedtap8399]

@@steveallarton98 ar me Mon.

[@ianpendlebury3704]

Great video and a couple of things that I would have never have thought about. Thanks ( from Malaysia ).

[@frrapp2366]

interesting video ,was just working on a hydraulic cylinder tube that goes on a little backhoe i bought (came in pieces) the threads on the tube were galled and had torn out some , left some in the chunks in the bottom of the treads . ended up just using files and ground a small punch sharp to drive the impacted chunks out. it would have been nice to be able to chuck it up in a lathe, BUT would have to be pretty big to get it in too !! maybe if i need to do a bolt or shaft sometime i can use your methods next time!! thanks for the lessons

[@heinvosloo45]

Ji Joe, Thanks for all the knowledge you share! Greetings from Johannesburg South Africa

[@tobydulanski3000]

Thanks again Joe, always listening over here.