How To Pin a Crack In a Clarinet

This is a how-to video about pinning a crack in a clarinet. This is one of the more difficult repairs. If you decide to attempt this repair, practice on a junk wooden clarinet first.
There are other techniques for pinning clarinets, but this is the way that I do it.You will want to watch other videos to see how other people do the repair too. I also admit that this is not one of my better repairs and there are many people out there that are better than me.
Here are some of the tools you may need to do this repair:
E16C crack pinning wire
D220 #54 drill bit
D44 pin vise
H75 glue and grenadilla chip kit
E18 small files
You can get these from Ferree's Tools:
ferreestoolsinc.com Want to leave a tip so Art can continue to make more quality videos?
TIP JAR - paypal.me/brassandwoodwindsho...

[@Metal-Possum]

If you want more precision with the super glue, use a pin (like those found in a sewing kit with the plastic ball on the end), dip the pointy end into the glue and use that to transfer it to wherever you want it to be.

[@DavePageGA]

Great video, you make it look easy, (although I know it is not) but more importantly your explanations are very clear and concise. Thank you for all of your videos!

[@jstep4146]

Interesting! I use a different procedure, but it is nice to see variants. I drill with a dremel drill press, then put the pin in with an arbor press. I coat the pin with special thin epoxy glue before insertion and use a dremel to grind the pin just under flush. The sawdust I made myself from an old destroyed clarinet (careful, most of these woods are toxic as dust), I have mixed it with epoxy if that strength is needed but is harder to sand than super glue, so super glue is probably better most of the time. Most of the time I recommend an overhaul if pinning is needed, as it usually is a good time to do that. It makes it easier to get the finish perfect if you have the instrument stripped of all its keys and such. I would also recommend practicing the drilling on some dowel stock the first time. I don't use the heating, but I use that thin epoxy glue and a 1 size under drill size for a pin. I know that ain't traditional, but it holds real good. If I tried to use a table motor to drill, I would definitely break a lot of bits! My recommendation is to buy an old beat up wood clarinet for about 25 bucks and experiment until you get it right.

[@wanours5703]

a big thank you from France for all your videos. I've restored a flute thanks to you and now I will start working on my grand father's clarinette. I would never feel confident doing this without your help.

[@cfcasey.guitars-ukuleles]

I’m a fretted instrument luthier/repairer and it’s fascinating to see the overlaps as well as the differences between our two crafts.

[@Barklikeadogmusic]

I love your video’s, they are helpful and concise.

[@stefeniedavidmusic]

Wow, that is a real art. Not something I would try myself, ever.

[@javierquesada798]

tremendous work is revealing

[@lunartuner2930]

This made my day! I've been wanting to learn how to do this but it seemed overwhelming but seeing you demonstrate the steps really gives me the confidence to practice this

[@BennyGoodman1977]

Just thank you for your videos. You are really a great guy. Beautiful to see this video

[@blsharpley]

Beautiful job

[@krystynaczubowna6263]

I love your job! Thank you for showing me all process of repairing cracks. I didn't understand why it is always so expensive, now I know that it is really hard work. Thank you !

[@maximinotovar5798]

Awesome. Thanks for sharing!

[@Komantuk]

Wow!!! totally amazing work! 😇

[@willemkossen]

Thanks. This is very useful

[@40daffgroup84]

Waw master .was very nice and entresting for me.thank you so much master

[@darrencady4261]

That's amazingly simple- for an instrument tech with many years of experience who made the repair appear a lot easier than it really is. I've always wondered how cracked clarinets are repaired and now I know. But. I wouldn't attempt it myself. Thank you for a very imformative and interesting video. I take off my hat to you.

[@Gator1699]

Good work.Cheers

[@steniotelesbarbosa2853]

Very good

[@markpowls]

Thanks

[@timothysweaney8013]

I have found that heating the pinning rod will burn the wood on the the beginning of the process. I have had instruments come back . I have done 2 things. First I humidify the joint to close the crack, might take some time. I follow Allieds Repair tip old book .You can use a tap, or as I do use a lub. my preference is plain old perfin wax to help rod slide in. All the things I see in this video are great info. There is a new composite rod on the market you might try. I have and I liked the result.

[@baemaugustoalvrez7294]

fantastic, thanks a lot

[@daniellesunley4807]

Do you have any videos on leveling clarinet tone holes. My daughter’s wooden clarinet has a tone hole with a small notch in it. I have re-padded it with roo pads and it does play okay but I would like get the hole smooth. I have got a cheap wooden fife with very rough tone holes to practice on.

[@EmilianoViola]

Thanks!!

[@jfjorgefreitas1]

thanks

[@ringerkye9641]

Fantastic video. Very fluent xx What oil was you using on the body at the end?

[@EspressoBear59]

I have an wooden Irish flute with a plastic head joint. It has a large crack that runs though the blow hole. Would the repair process be the same?

[@KaoRrRr1]

Nice. I tend to use black epoxy instead of cyano + wood, but as long as it works ! It also is pretty good to clean the crack with alcool before gluing. The heat and crak pinnig wire is really interesting.

[@jstep4146]

I use epoxy with the wood sawdust mixed in.

[@NPComposition]

I also have a question. Why did you use key oil instead of bore oil on the dull wood?

[@MissTEO1]

This video is very helpful, thank you. Question: what is the reason you go in straight/perpendicular with the drill bit before adjusting to the correct angle? Is it to prevent tear out? Thanks again.

[@TheBrassandWoodwindShop]

Drill bits do not like to go in at an angle, so you need to go in straight. After the drill bit goes in, you can angle it so it does not go through the bore of the instrument.

[@markpowls]

Do you replace tenons often? I have not yet and curious if there are any secrets to doing this properly.

[@TheBrassandWoodwindShop]

I have only replaced tenons about 6 or 8 times, so I am not an expert at it. It is not that hard to do, it just takes a long time. You will need a lathe and a boring tool and a few other things. You need to plan ahead so things line up right when you put things together. Usually it is best to replace the joint and swap the keys, but sometimes that is not possible or practical. I hope this helps.

[@PabloSuarez-jz9ri]

Could you tell me the diameter of the pinning wire and the drill bit please? Thank you so much!!!

[@dominicricciardi7744]

What if the clarinet is plastic resin? What if it is broken in half perpendicularly?

[@Elkwoman46]

Greetings to you. Thank you so very kindly for this video. Wow. I have a question... I bought a very old wood clarinet in the Key of A which I am thrilled to have. It looks great except one, I believe, minor issue. I do not see any signs of cracks as those caused by temperature changes, but there is a small V shaped issue on the edge where the cork is where it holds the upper and lower section together. It does not appear to be all the way through but almost, and it looks like the solid circular wood holds itself together even so, but I would like to know how I might strengthen this area, the outer V shaped issue perhaps no more than one half inch down (the old cork is still wrapped around it and also seems to help make it contained over time perhaps, but I do see the cork needs replacement--I do not trust this cork to hold the instrument together). I do know how to replace the cork and pads at this point in my experience in this world of repair. I believe this thing was caused by a minor accident somehow, which I hear is very common for this area on the clarinet. Because three pads are missing, I do not think this has been possibly used for some time. This clarinet is believed to be just over one hundred years old. It appears to be very well made, great wood, and in great shape other than this one thing. And I need to make a case for it. Your advice would be very much appreciated. Can I fill this V in? Does this require a pin? Or is this a relatively easy fix that will last without some internal support? Would it work to make a sliver of hard wood to fit into this gap? If so, how to glue it in?? I am not sure how to proceed or what to use. Thanks so much. Thanks so kindly for your time. God bless you in Jesus' Name.

[@TheBrassandWoodwindShop]

It is hard to say for sure without seeing the clarinet, but it sounds like something that is fairly common on older clarinets. If it is what I am thinking it is, it is nothing to worry about. you can safely leave it alone or you can fill it in. You can use grenadilla wood chips and super glue and file down the excess with a small file. If the gap is large enough, you can put a piece of grenadilla wood in there and super glue it and then proceed with the wood chips and super glue to finish the job. However, I would only try this if you are good with wood and you have some experience with working on clarinet bodies. You can do damage if you are not very careful.

[@Elkwoman46]

@@TheBrassandWoodwindShop THANK YOU SO MUCH for your very kind and helpful and amazing reply. I so very much appreciate it. Thanks so much. Your mention of super glue got me thinking about another question I have. If you don't mind. I bought a very, very, old wooden flute which also has a most unusual thing on the section where one blows into the flute. It is not wood there, and is made out of bone, unknown bone, and is lined with metal below (inner metal tube, but bone is perhaps 1/8 inch wrapped around it. This has a big crack in it along the length, and I perceive very common issue due to weather changes and time, which makes it logical that this would crack. This crack in the bone, I believe needs to be filled in since it affects where the hole is where one blows into it. Do you know of a substance, glue, or product that can fill this without causing more issues in the future? Something that might allow for expansion and contraction? I am wondering if you have any ideas or solutions that could be done to help this situation? I would so very much appreciate your thoughts on this. And while I am at it...I have yet another question. I have a metal vintage flute that is well worn which was silver plated. It looks silver underneath, so I am assuming it is a nickel silver beneath, not brass. The lip plate has a lot of the silver removed, and I am wondering if this is okay to play as is? I do not know about mixed metals, but when I consider nickel silver made of copper, zinc, nickel, I don't see a problem, unless it is the nickel that could be a problem? I am not sure. Is nickel silver safe for lips? I am wondering. Thanks so very much for everything. God bless you in Jesus' Name, and Happy New Year. Thanks so much.

[@TheBrassandWoodwindShop]

I have never worked with bone, so I am not sure what to do with that one. I do not even know who to ask. I can answer your other question though. Under the plating on a lip plate, it is most likely nickel silver. It is safe for lips. In some rare cases, it may cause acne, but it is almost always fine.

[@Elkwoman46]

@@TheBrassandWoodwindShop THANK YOU AGAIN so very, very, much for replying to my additional questions. I thought a lot about your answers and thanks so much again for your great kindnesses and time for them. I perceive there might not be any solutions for repairing this kind of thing in bone. I heard suggestions of clamping it, like those things one can get at a hardware store, but I now perceive looking at mine, that it would only cause serious injury to it, even perhaps crush it--even though it is weighty and solid. It is that very thing, the force on it would probably break it I too cannot recall any glue or substance that might fill it in, that is the crack on it without causing future damage. I have the impression that people are using them with a crack or even cracks on it without issues. I think mine will play as well, and it even perhaps looks like a previous owner used it based on its condition and care of it. And, also, I am so grateful to know that I can and did proceed to use the metal flute, and I have no problems in that way. I do perceive I might have some leaks and I am so glad you have the videos I need to do this. Again, thanks so much for all your help and guidance. I so very much appreciate it. I hope you are having a wonderful New Year! God bless you in Jesus' Name.

[@moyate11]

Did you build your bench motor yourself? Can you give some details?

[@TheBrassandWoodwindShop]

I did not build the bench motor. It came from Ferree's Tools. They are expensive, but if you do a lot of repairs, they are necessary.

[@davidemarchi6366]

it is dull, can I use shellac instead oil? or polish wood with a rotary tool?

[@TheBrassandWoodwindShop]

You can use a buffing wheel with white buffing compound to polish it. I do not know about shellac.

[@burakmentes]

This is good job but i did not understand the reason why pins are used ? İs this the reason of making the crack stable ? Because some videos i see that others just use ebony powder and superglue

[@TheBrassandWoodwindShop]

Pins are used when the crack goes all the way through to the inside of the clarinet. That keeps the crack from opening up again. If the crack does not go all the way through, you would only use superglue and wood chips.

[@francescoberini]

thanks, where can you find this "pin"? is it threaded? i can't see

[@TheBrassandWoodwindShop]

Yes, the pin is threaded. The link to where you can get it is ferreestoolsinc.com The information is in the video description. I hope this helps. Art

[@francescoberini]

@@TheBrassandWoodwindShop ok, it's handy of course, thanks for that!

[@kevinngo9138]

at 12:19 you say that you rub key oil, did you mean bore oil or clarinet key oil?

[@TheBrassandWoodwindShop]

I said key oil, but either one will work.

[@joemagnets9940]

If you dampen the saw dust, then add the super glue you should have a stronger bond.

[@tomswift6198]

What's the purpose of heating the rod?

[@TheBrassandWoodwindShop]

Heating the rod helps it to go into the wood easier.

[@tomswift6198]

@@TheBrassandWoodwindShop Thanks.

[@joemagnets9940]

You would probably have more control with a variable speed drill.

[@jackianmayer5910]

ideally and circumtance permitting , a measure would allow the pin to break off just below the drilled holes surface...the heating of pins is a must... like the grenadilla cyanoacrylate fil tech...

[@Y.D.S.H.N]

Why are you pinnig cracks before gluing? Its seem to be better when you apply penetrating glue before pinning.

[@tuniox8914]

That's very hard to do.

[@lambertj.2892]

Great video, but not a procedure for the faint of heart. If you need your clarinet pinned, hire a professional.