HOW TO PREPARE AN IMAGE FOR LASER ENGRAVING // Is This Really Necessary?

[@jayneschuetter5517]

I really enjoy your videos. Will be getting a laser as soon as we move into our new home. You have already taught me a lot. Thanks

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Glad to help! Keep watching

[@kurtanp]

About the only thing I can suggest from a graphic design stance is when you change dpi, also adjust the image size to match the physical size of the final product... 12"x20"

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Good point. Actually I should have set the DPI to 250 rather than 150 as well. Probably not a huge impact though

[@MrKtmstu]

Very interesting thanks!

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Hope it was useful

[@acessford101]

"Who's Norton?" Now, that is funny.

[@gremlin60]

I have no clue what im doing wrong. I cant get grayscale on photos. It is just black. No brown. I have tryed adjusting speed and power. Got it to just bearly burn and all is same color

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Make sure that you are selecting the dithering option in RE3 or whatever laser software you are using

[@midnight7373]

In your software it sets it to halftone dither.. wouldn't that be dithering it twice since you already dithered one in gimp and the other on imagr?

[@SteveMakesEverything]

I'm not sure it's actually dither twice since dithering relies on grayscales to dither.

[@johnhusband924]

Enjoyed the video which was very well delivered and professional. In my opinion the grey scale image looked the best followed by the Gimp image which surprised me. Thanks for sharing much appreciated.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Glad you enjoyed it. I want to do another video soon about improving image quality

[@robertarmstrong2323]

I had great looking photo on imagr..but when previewed it in lightburn .pic was totally whiteout..Im getting so frustrated with using laser.. nothing is working like it does in these videos

[@SteveMakesEverything]

I'd like to say I possess some sort of magic, but more likely, the image isn't in a format amenable to Lightburn. Download the image to your local computer and try to open it with an image editor. If it's messed up there then Lightburn won't load it properly either. Also once you bring it into Lightburn you would need to assign it to a layer (the numbered colors along the bottom of the screen). When you pick a layer you will also have to tell Lightburn that it is an image

[@zovi8514]

So thankful for the experience you are sharing to us

[@SteveMakesEverything]

I'm just trying to grow the maker community 😀

[@bcurtis1612]

Great and informative video! Thanks for sharing.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Appreciated, thanks :-)

[@GarySerfass]

This video was very helpful, but saw no mention of image size ...kb,1mb, 10mb. Whats range of initial resolution is recommended?

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Since images tend to be 250-300 dpi the image size is usually pretty small. You can got to 500 or 1000dpi but there is y much benefit

[@GeorgeSA5]

Interesting video. With a good image like in this example, I agree you don't need to do more than converting to greyscale. When you have a bad photo however, you definitely need to change it with photo editing software to get it acceptable for laser engraving. It would be nice to see this test repeated with a photo that has dark shadows in it.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Not every photo is good for laser engraving regardless. RE3 does do a decent job of interpreting engraving levels right out of the box. No question it can be improved but the law of diminishing returns definitely applies.

[@pravitjarriya4767]

Thank you so much

[@SteveMakesEverything]

You're most welcome

[@kurtanp]

Awesome!

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Thanks!