How to Quickly Fix Your Slotta Bases

[@crouchingotter]

I like that you covered the hole with some plastic with "whole" printed on it. Subtle but amusing. In a subtly amusing way.

[@tabletopminions]

Also completely unintentional. Thanks for watching!

[@nerdsomnia]

I wasn't the only that noticed that! Hahaha.

[@FalcoII]

@@tabletopminions I find that hard to believe! :D increadible coincidence then.

[@larsgottlieb]

I always have tea while I paint. My teapot is heated with a tea candle, I use matches to light the candles. Matches, for whatever reason, fit really well into the slots.

[@tabletopminions]

That's a happy coincidence, isn't it? Thanks for watching!

[@Tachicardiac]

Actually I can second that.

[@KLR-rp6pn]

Patrick Bateman ass way of writing that comment lmao

[@carlmayne3519]

I'm so uset now!!! ...... I wanted to see you stuffing peanut butter and nuts in that slot :P

[@tabletopminions]

That's how you get ants in your minis case. Thanks for watching!

[@Tech2Rush]

You used the bit reading "whole" to cover the hole on purpose, didn't you? We're on to you.

[@tabletopminions]

I wish I were that smart. *Or do I?* Wait. Thanks for watching!

[@Zargooran]

A very interesting way to cover the slot. I personally just use green stuff or cork, but then my bases are covered in a thick layer of river sand for a rocky texture, but I can see that your technique would be much more preferable for bases that need to be kept more flat for their basing. Brilliant use for something you would normally just toss in the bin too.

[@tabletopminions]

Yeah, if your figure is going to stand on a big piece of cork, then this isn't needed. Thanks for watching!

[@muppethitman]

This video is a god send for the latest second edition box set of Bloodbowl. Slotta bases with non slotta minis. Thanks you sir.

[@liammabelitini9506]

Atom, you have made me hungry almost 3 years after the release of this video. What is this?

[@MrBizteck]

Lol the first 4 mins of this video I was sure you were going to use the bar not the packaging !!!!

[@tabletopminions]

I think I would end up with ants. Thanks for watching!

[@MrBizteck]

+Tabletop Minions Nurgle 's gift...

[@aquadonkey.]

MrBizteck lol i tgought the same thing

[@timgillott9290]

Just found this video, and wanted to say thanks. I use Green Stuff for this, but your suggestion is so much quicker and cheaper. Great tip.

[@C4ManMike]

I use wood filler. it adds really good texture on top. it fills the slot really well. then I go a little further and I fill the bottom of the base and scrape off the access. not only does it fill and cover the slot, but the bottom fill adds good solid wait to the base and makes the entire model feel solid and robust. I'll never go back lol. but very very creative and unthought of uncle tom!

[@simonburn9063]

Niiice. I've skipped over this video a number of times because I was thinking to myself 'I know how to quickly fix slotta bases'. This is so much quicker. And the video was also very entertaining - it could have been 30 seconds long, but it was worth watching for nine minutes.

[@DagobahDave]

I almost always cut my minis off of their slotters, so whenever I get a fresh batch of slotted bases, I have a Milliput party to fill the gaps and start texturing the surface. It's a lot more work than what Atom is describing here, but you can get started on your fancy basing at the same time. Also, the putty will add a little weight to model, which is usually a nice feature.

[@jonathanbaker5037]

Recently discovered your channel and have watched most of the videos over the past couple of weeks. Just wanted to say I think you're my hobby twin. We seem to have the same viewpoint on a lot of things (types of games we like, non-competitive attitude, etc.), and I love the sarcastic humor. Keep on keeping on!

[@tabletopminions]

I'm glad to hear it. Do we look anything alike? Which one of us is the evil twin? Jeez, I hope it's not me, because then I've really been slacking. Thanks for watching!

[@jonathanbaker5037]

+Tabletop Minions Not too far off. i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/jonishairy/5E5F3663-B0EE-4117-81F0-E93F46BB3123_zpsgakpvzcu.jpg You have to be the evil one. I might get defrocked if I'm too naughty.

[@bobgnarredbeard1207]

Very clever. Since I mostly play with multi figure bases I have not dealt much with slotta bases. Sometime I have, and so did very ad hoc ways to fix. Filler, ignore, tape. Your solution gives a very systematic way to do this. May I suggest you make a lot of work by custom cutting each paper for the base. I have a number of various size circle craft punches which would work well. Take the whole wrapper, and cut out as many circles as possible and save. When fixing a SB, just take up a circle, spread the CA glue around and put on the circle. After dry, us a usual base covering technique.

[@jasonnewman3355]

If people are really concerned about it getting punctured you can flip the base over after the patch dries and then fill the slot with a layer of CA glue as well. It'll dry to be rock hard and no problems will be had.

[@tabletopminions]

That's a very good point. I've done that once in awhile. Thanks for watching!

[@darktree8449]

That's a good tip. Amazing how much of a modeller's life is filling gaps. I used to be fond of the slotta-bases because you could position the fig a tiny bit raised so that sand and stuff could be shoved under the feet to avoid that sinking-into-grit look.

[@tabletopminions]

I usually like to make it look like my models are slogging through the mud and sand, so I don't mind that look. Thanks for watching!

[@Miniac]

I just use milliput!

[@tabletopminions]

I don't generally like to use putty for stuff like that as I'm bad at it. How does Milliput react to CA glue? Thanks for watching!

[@Miniac]

I think it reacts as you'd expect it to, when it's soft and pliable it just bonds to it a little bit better with some CA glue. However, I think cured miliput would make a strong enough bond inside a slot to not need CA. You can also sand it flush with the surface of the base after the fact if you wish. However, this is much harder than your method, but you can drill holes into the millitput for adhering your miniature to a base if it comes to that.

[@eddieharr]

I glue the mini how I want it and simply use tape to cover any exposed part of the hole, I then cut the tape so it doesnt hang over the base. Then I base spray the model and base. Once done with the model I put my basing down over the tape and all. I have been doing it for years and there are no issues with the tape coming off etc.

[@tabletopminions]

I always do my base texture before I spray prime. I did a video about it awhile back. It was the most recent 'Uncle Atom's Pro Tips' video. Thanks for watching!

[@DFloyd84]

I look forward to a time when tabs are a thing of the past. I've dealt with too many tabbed minis recently with tabs that are too tall for the slot. I end up busting my hump cutting and filing to get the tab at least flush with the underside of the base because I'm too lazy to pull out my rotary tool and put a sanding disc on it.

[@tabletopminions]

I just trim them off with my clippers, usually. Thanks for watching!

[@JohnnyWraith989]

Well, I'm just glad you didn't end up using the granola to cover the hole :P

[@tabletopminions]

That would be a waste of granola. Thanks for watching!

[@tarkhan15]

Being that I started with Dark Vengeance, and the guy at my local FLGS gave me 15 snapfit tactical marines with slot bases. This is gonna be really useful.

[@assembly_language3948]

I've tried it before with several different things from candy bar wrappers and scotch tape. Even with them being super-glued, then pva and sand, it still came loose eventually and caused all the basing material to come off the base... I went back to greenstuff... Its more expensive and time consuming, but far less frustrating in the long run... And I am really annoyed at the newer unslotted bases... Why they had to retool them which ends up with that divot in the middle of the base is silly in the extreme... Now I have to fill those with greenstuff too. These are my personal experiences, YMMV however.

[@spencerdavis5775]

Just use paper, it always works great for me. You glue it down and then put some super glue over it and it becomes really stiff. If your still worried, putting a layer of pva with some sand on it for basing will hold it down even more.

[@Jokreher]

I usually end up gluing the miniature into the slotta base for painting. When the paint is done, I carefully cut the miniature from the slot at the feet leaving the excess in the base. The remaining gaps are easily filled with some PVA & grit, covered with some cork, or whatnot.

[@tabletopminions]

Huh. I would do that before the painting, myself. Thanks for watching!

[@sherryanne2287]

cutting up popsicle sticks and gluing them in there works really well. they're already the right width.

[@TheMonyarm]

Thanks, I just bought my first 40k miniatures the other day, it was 3 snap fit space marines and some paints and a brush. The bases it came with were slotta bases.

[@johnroberts981]

The 'whole' point (see what i did there 😉) is utilising what would otherwise go in the bin, love it! Talking of necessity being the mother of invention, about 30 years ago, I found I had a 15mm napoleonic infantryman without a bayonet. Oh No, I thought, but in a flash of inspiration, I utilised a fingernail clipping to replace the bayonet! I superglued a sliver of it to the musket, I mixed in some fine-surface filler in the superglue and 30x years later it's still going strong. In fact I couldn't even pick it out from the rest of the figures!

[@lofrothepirate]

Black Cat! The small-grade explosives of my childhood! Where did you find that shirt?

[@tabletopminions]

Online somewhere, years ago. Thanks for watching!

[@420StonerShot]

Awesome tip, gotta admit I have had a hard time with the slotted bases and don’t care much for the left open gaps, but you’ve found a pretty good fix!

[@TheTazman49684]

Well done sir! It's always nice to see options for such things. Don't you just feel oh, so smart, when you re-purpose something like this? Love this hobby...... Respectfully, Gunny

[@tabletopminions]

I do love to re-purpose. Thanks for watching!

[@culsandar]

The film said "whole" lol. That dry humor is the best.

[@tabletopminions]

It seems my dry humor is unplanned. Thanks for watching!

[@jakepiekarski1715]

There are about a million ways to do this. My favorite is to use plastic-glue (the kind that melts plastic together), and a piece of plasticard (sheet styrene) If you use really thin plasticard it's really easy to shave off the edges and get a nice flush look to where the plasticard meets the black puck.

[@TheImmortalsbleed]

I usually just get some wooden circles from my local craft store (i.e. hobby lobby) and pin the feet of the mini to the wood. If alignment is an issue I typically drill the holes and glue the pins in their feet first. Then I get a dab of paint and dip the pins in it. Position the model and press down leaving two little dots on the surface. Drill the holes where you see the dots and attach with super glue. You can get a package of like 20 circles for around $1.25. Where I'm at. I also use them for D&D miniatures.

[@familyofgamers777]

Cool way to look at using what you have around you for anything. Good idea Adam. Watch those granola bars. High calories and sugar.

[@tabletopminions]

I keep my carbs in check, Coach. Thanks for watching!

[@christianoliver25]

I just fill them in with milliput. I trim the tabs off then super glue them into place before the putty dries. As the tabs or pins push through, there will be putty oozing out the bottom. I trim or shave this off my running a razor over the bottom. When pressing the putty in at the beginning, i set it on a tile or wax backing paper, so it starts out pretty flush and doesn't stick.

[@tabletopminions]

I've never tried Milliput, but I hear about it a lot. I should look into it. Thanks for watching!

[@MrElbaryn]

I use green stuff.

[@nova3k]

I put scotch tape over the slot, flip it over, then fill it with hot glue. Then once it cools, remove the tape. Works like a charm, and no need to worry about combat damage.

[@tabletopminions]

You must be much better with hot glue than I am. Thanks for watching!

[@thunder-firedigital7627]

Just found your channel, and i'm liking what i'm seeing. About to start a Flesh-Eater courts army. Keep up the good work!

[@tabletopminions]

I'm glad you're joining the mighty kingdom of Death. Thanks for watching!

[@TheMatiasfrom]

I've been doing this with the thin cardboard you get from your miniature boxes. It's got a little more structure.

[@tabletopminions]

Sure. It's a little thicker than I'd like, usually. Thanks for watching!

[@joeldude1998]

I know it's an old comment. I used cardstock like that on my fire dragons squad that has the tabs. Though I cut it up to look like it's tiles so it fits more into the decoration.

[@helenmcclure]

Quick green stuff method. Stuff base slot from underneath until the green stuff is poking through the topside muffin style. Take a clay ribbon cutter (you can get them in small sizes dirt cheap off eBay) & pull it across the green stuff which will trim, spread and compress it to fit the slot perfectly. Job done in seconds.

[@wisebloodj1]

Yup, that works great. I go even lazier and just use blue painters tape.

[@whitedwarf12]

Interesting idea. I actually did use green stuff for some demo bases i wanted to paint and it worked out pretty well. Never woulda thought of this to be honest interesting idea.

[@thomashoellering9810]

Glad those days are over. I used all sorts of things, whatever was nearby. Two part epoxy. Paper towel with glue. Masking tape. Plastic bits from spruce. - Like your idea though too. Best done in batches though. One candy-bar per figure would be a belly ache :)

[@tabletopminions]

You can get a *bunch* of minis done with just a single wrapper. Thanks for watching!

[@PhilipSpence]

Great tip. Low tac tape like Tamiya tape might be a good alternative too.

[@tabletopminions]

I haven't tried it. I should look into it. Thanks for watching!

[@jonathonfreeman9233]

something funny. With resin models now on the rise ... slotted miniatures are also back on the rise. ... which means I now have slotted miniatures. then I remembered this 4 year old video and gave it a review on what to do with patching up my slotted bases. Thanks again!

[@helotaxi]

I've always just put a sheet of paper over the entire top of the base and soak it with CA. Once the glue sets you can run your knife around the base edge to trim it to size. No bump and it's porous and has some texture so it holds glue/basing better.

[@domjack8545]

Got Bloodbowl second edititon. Fixed the bases with this trick. Thanks a lot 👍🔥

[@thomasthannhauser6142]

Using regular white office paper to cover the slots. After like 10 years it's still a good effect.

[@tabletopminions]

Probably slightly thicker, but on the other hand, the glue probably soaks into it as well. Thanks for watching!

[@SuperMonkeyJapan]

I love how "Whole" was over the hole

[@tabletopminions]

Unintentional, I assure you. Thanks for watching!

[@TheJankmaster]

Masking tape?

[@ceowulf69]

That's what I have used for ages, then PVA glue and sand

[@uaputte]

Tape gets old fast and releas from what it stuck on...

[@wildtony79]

@@uaputte I’ve got 20 year old models where I covered the slot with sticky tape them covered with PVA glue and sand. The tape is still going strong.

[@Geeko170]

If you dont mind waiting, a few layers of pva glue works aswell. This is a lot quicker and neater.

[@scottfw7169]

What I do for fully filling the slot, or at the ends of a narrow tab, is raid the model railroad supplies for either, I forget which, .080 or .060 square styrene strip from Evergreen Styrene; cut a bit off, glue it in from the bottom using that brush-on liquid model cement, and call it done.

[@scottbeil2646]

Great show as always. Atom I just got in on a new kickstarter called Massive Darkness and I thought you might be interested because of the beautiful miniatures, you should take a look at it on kickstarter

[@hodsmat]

It's actually a pretty good idea. But I'm the type of person who's paranoid about how thin that film is. I tried in the past filling up that slot with a piece of sprue and cover it up with some putty.

[@tabletopminions]

I know what you mean, but some glue underneath and some basing on top should protect it. Thanks for watching!

[@adamparrott7618]

Did anyone else notice the wrapper piece has the word "whole," which is covering the hole of the slotta base? Made me chuckle. ;p BTW, enjoying your videos, keep it up!

[@tabletopminions]

I noticed that during editing. Completely unintended. Thanks for watching!

[@alexfielding775]

This is actually crazily helpful....thanks atom! :D

[@tabletopminions]

I'm glad it will help. Thanks for watching!

[@scotscovenanter]

This has me now thinking about how to repurpose all the excess bases I have from my boxes of Pathfinder Pawns which will never get used. Those who own any know that these bases have the exact opposite problem of Slotta :)

[@erniesbiscuits8691]

Hey man. Really enjoying your videos! Looking to get back into the hobby after many years away (SO agree with you on not being a miniatures hoarder; I have hundreds of pounds worth of unopened stuff). Keep them coming

[@tabletopminions]

I will do so. Welcome back. Thanks for watching!

[@Avyon404]

"most bases are usually not slotted" (Sad Tyranid noises)

[@Argonisgema]

I knooooooow

[@MeGaShaHeS]

Good idea man , I use the thin cardboard r plastic from a blister pack for this , works well to .

[@tabletopminions]

It does, but this stuff is so much thinner. Thanks for watching!

[@TabletopTitan]

I know this is a very old video but there is a company called Evergreen Scale Models that sells plastic strips and sheets and girders and things for hobby trains. They have thin strips of plastic for around $4 bucks. I use the .25 x 6.3 mm strips and cut them to fit. Super easy and not piercable.

[@RobertChisholm]

Do you want ants in your miniature case ? Because that's how you get ants. I've done the same thing many times. I use scotch tape. Once you cover it with white glue and sand it's quite durable.

[@Kojak0]

I have to agree, even if I have never got ants; but anything that has to do with foodstuff should be avoided - it can start to smell, or if you leave even the tiniest piece of organic matter exposed to air (like the blank side of a foil of say, a Granola bar), it can start getting mold, and you don't want that. So for once, I'd say, go un-natural! Go un-organic!

[@tabletopminions]

Ants crawling all over my Nurgle army would be totally METAL. Thanks for watching!

[@tarkhan15]

if your tyranids start moving around the table on their own that still counts as movement

[@theblockmasterzstudios1782]

+Corvak haha lol

[@spacecat7715]

I love the term "Nerd Bunker." Sadly, I don't have a basement with which to call "Nerd Bunker." Oh well, I'll just settle for "room" where I paint my minis. Great video! 😁

[@rubenvanzegen7104]

Scotch tape on top, glue from the bottom with a glue gun, wait a minute, remove the scotch tape.

[@tabletopminions]

If I had a dollar for the number or times I've burned myself on a glue gun, I'd have a bunch of dollars. I would have no luck using one on something as small as a 25mm base. Thanks for watching!

[@RitorasGames]

Hey Uncle Atom I have a question... I feel like my painting skills have greatly increased lately and I am pretty sure they will keep increasing as I paint more. Being a perfectionist, I don't know how to feel or what I should do with the models painted in a lower skill level. If I strip them off and repaint them, I am very sure that I will have to strip them and repaint them every time that my skills increase, which I guess is not a good idea... Any tips on how to deal with the "not to my current level, previously painted miniatures"? Thanks!

[@tabletopminions]

Don't sweat it, unless it's a really cool model that could be a hero in your army. Then you might want to strip the paint. Thanks for watching!

[@peterlavalle]

6:64 ... it's ... it's no longer a *hole* base! You've made it a *whole* base!

[@kylekares]

If you want to re-base some of your Warhammer fantasy square bases with round bases, what is a good place to buy round bases that isn't the GW website? I saw some reddit posts that say eBay

[@tabletopminions]

Yes, I'd tell you to go to eBay. Thanks for watching!

[@soundwave_9252]

hotglue is a pretty cheap and easy way to cover up holes in bases. just paint the back of it black so light doesn't shine through when you hold the model up, but it works well otherwise.

[@309freddie]

You can always use part of the granola bar for ground texture...

[@jkadisak]

I thought you were going to grind up the granola bar and stuff it in there. Thanks for the laugh and the great idea!

[@tabletopminions]

That would eventually get gross, I would think. Thanks for watching!

[@danielwatson382]

Didn't you do a video on this before or is it deja vu? Keep up the good work.

[@tabletopminions]

Deja vu, I think. I did one about basing before you prime, maybe it's that one? Thanks for watching!

[@DrunkenDeer]

blue tac is better choice as far as im concerned. you can just blue tac a slotta base and pus the tab in for an even snug fit.

[@tabletopminions]

Does blu tac ever actually "dry" though? Thanks for watching!

[@DrunkenDeer]

Tabletop Minions not really sure though ive noticed blu tac can get crusty and hard from old age, but I find it easy to remove afterwards if required as its not cemented like glue and with a bit of water can make a smooth surface if you dont want an uneven base.

[@ferkinason]

Very helpful indeed! Another possible thing could be aluminium foil. I think most of us (or your partner) has it.

[@tabletopminions]

I actually tried that once, but it gets so bendy and it's hard to unbend without crinkling it. Thanks for watching!

[@linkno1]

Or if you've got green stuff, clay or whatever hanging around anyway, just use that since it's better even if the chance the film would be punctured is slim...Especially since the film used on these snacks is designed so that stuff generally won't so easily stick to it, such as paints. It's going to be disheartening if you spend ages getting a mini just right and then it DOES get punctured and paint starts to flake off, all because getting some green stuff out would take a bit more effort. I personally use air dry clay for plugging the holes since I tend to use it for none mini related things more often than I ever use green stuff, so I'll have it out and can do a whole batch of slot filling in like 5 minutes compared to how long it would take to do a single base with this method. Just get a lump on my thumb, drag it across the slot, rinse and repeat. If there's any excess on the surface that may prevent something sticking properly (it probably wouldn't), it takes like 2 seconds to rub it off. It's also designed to take paint properly.

[@hunggarrebel2801]

Uncle Atom, you are an absolute maniac! What kind of Sadomasochistic tries to stick recent 'non slotta base' models onto old school 'slotta base' bases? All the models come with their own (exact number of) bases. They literally come in the same box! Not that I don't appreciate your ingenious solutions, I do. You are the Walter White of strange situations I somehow always find myself in but, ooohhhh a penny....

[@tabletopminions]

Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. Also, I really dislike square bases, so there's that. Thanks for watching!

[@AzraelThanatos]

If you need to pin anything, you really want another option. I've always used bits of blister packaging from things because it's a bit harder.

[@tabletopminions]

If I have to pin, then I pin through the plastic of the base, not through the wrapper glued over the slot. It works well. Thanks for watching!

[@wsco2486]

As always, thanks for another great video!

[@Eschimmification]

Stirland Mud clogs the slot pretty well and it dries into a pretty rough mixture, so it rarely crumbles.

[@jonocc5548]

match sticks or equivalent sized wooden dowels from a hobby store also work great for slotta bases

[@ogryn99]

I use scotch tape. Works great. Cuts out the need for glue. One less step. I do not have the granola bar to eat afterwards though. (or for those less health conscious, rice krispy treats I think have the same packaging)

[@tabletopminions]

I'd be nervous about the tape not sticking well to the base over time, but that might just be my 'engineering overkill' brain talking. Thanks for watching!

[@mirawenthelessal7479]

I normally use a match, that I broke to the right size. Its rectangular and it's width fits perfectly into the slot. I put it in and glue it there with superglue.

[@tabletopminions]

A good idea if you have matches around. Thanks for watching!

[@JEKAZOL]

Can you fill the hole in my heart Uncle Atom??😢

[@notHiro]

I used masking tape underneath, and then lightweight spackling to fill them in. Worked great and no extra weight. Took a little more time than this though.

[@tabletopminions]

Probably, yes. I like to save time with my painting. Thanks for watching!

[@davedogge2280]

I mixed plastacine with grey miliput to fill it for bloodbowl slot bases and it was a pain in the ass. thanks

[@LakeyWargames]

Pretty neat tip there, will have to try this out. Thanks for some more great ideas! :)

[@tabletopminions]

That's what I try to do. Thanks for watching!

[@ImaITman]

As a new hobbist guy it's made me see the world differently. I know that sounds crazy, but truly I'm ALWAYS on the lookout everywhere for ways to use things and have material that can be repurposed.

[@Kamakazie27]

I've put scotch tape over the top and then squirted some hot glue from below. Does the job pretty nicely imo!

[@TimmiTification]

Thats really cool, I will use that idea when my matchsticks have run out so thankyou.

[@tabletopminions]

I'll never run out of granola bar wrapper. I hope. Thanks for watching!

[@TwistedBishop]

The big question I'd have is what brand of granola bar is that? Looks delicious.

[@tabletopminions]

Something-something-protein-peanut-butter from Aldi. I forget the brand. Thanks for watching!

[@bageldrone]

Does paint adhere nicely to it? Might try it for flags etc

[@tabletopminions]

Maybe after you've spray primered it. I'm never painted directly on the wrapper plastic before. Thanks for watching!

[@ThePeacemaker848]

I just use some cut up wood from coffee sticks or toothpicks. This way I can use the cheaper glue instead of super glue too. And it gives some bumps to the base so that when basing covers it will look not flat.

[@itcheebeard]

Glad I'm not the only one who thought he was gonna stuff the slot with granola and sand it down.

[@RoboCrash]

I like how the piece says "Whole" that covers the 'hole'

[@tabletopminions]

Unintentional. Thanks for watching!

[@MrRwohnig72]

Just found this video. Slotta bases are my bane as I like to glue washers inside my bases. I have fumble fingers and always knocked them over. Some bottom weight helps.

[@garyhollywood85]

I like it when the metal base was part of the model.

[@Ellendil12]

How do you assemble a model if a hand and a weapon are seperate? Do you cut up the hand so that the weapon is in one piece, or do you cut up the weapon so that you save the hand?

[@tabletopminions]

I usually cut the grip off of the weapon and glue it to the hand (if the hand is already in a fist-holding-a-grip shape) and then it's all good. Thanks for watching!

[@Ellendil12]

Do you then reattach the grip to the down-side of the fist? or reattach just the pommel?

[@tabletopminions]

I generally don't bother with the grip at all once I've cut it off, unless you want to get really fancy.

[@blktom]

I wouldn't trust it to hold. Plus I would worry that if you place a fig on the wrapper instead of straddling the wrapper that there is a chance it would pull the wrapper off just by handling the fig. Oh look, my base snagged in my foam tray and I somehow put just enough pressure on it to rip it off of the base, or heaven forbid I drop it. I hate to say it but I have had that happen to often, specially when I am handling it in a delicate fashion, like just by the base edges or something silly. That is my luck, I am trying to be careful and that is when Murphy's Law takes over. I would rather just use Elmer's glue or a filler of some sort. Like you said, it is going to be covered up either way, but this way if the fig gets detached from the base, all I have to do is re-glue it on instead of possibly getting a new base.

[@tabletopminions]

When I do this, the figures are always straddling the slot and the wrapper. I wouldn't trust it to hold the mini, either. But it'll hold basing material. Thanks for watching!

[@SalmaZolak]

Solid idea, wish I had thought of that way back when I started.

[@tabletopminions]

That's why I like to share. Thanks for watching!

[@SalmaZolak]

+Tabletop Minions right away I put it to use on my warjacks bases for warmachine.

[@needfoolthings]

I like how the "whole" covers the hole. I see what you did there.

[@tabletopminions]

Not planned. Thanks for watching!

[@jessesmallwood110]

At 6:05, I'd also like to point out that fear of poking a hole in the film should encourage hobbyists to add basing material!

[@tabletopminions]

Good point. Base your models. Thanks for watching!

[@joeldude1998]

I thought you were just going to use some cork to cover over the hole since granola kinda looks like cork. since most people use cork for texture, and terrain anyway.