Hobby Cheating 185 - How to Pin Models

[@jordanharcombe84]

To make your lead hole a bit easier you could heat the point of your sharp object a little before gently pushing it into the part you're going to drill. This also works great for making bullet holes in armour.

[@willmyers6537]

For folk in our community that play guitar, old strings are amazing for for pinning. You get a arrange of different gauges. They can bent easy and lower strings grooved.

[@VinceVenturella]

That's an awesome tip, i love it. :)

[@misterscienceguy]

Aw man, I had tons of old strings for my bass guitar when I was learning. ADHD addled 17 year old me gave up and threw them out :(, I wasn't a smart kid.

[@MrSJPowell]

AS someone who is learning guitar, I'd think those would be too flexible, but I'll totally try that out when I next change my strings.

[@carlmayne3519]

You could add / do a second video on pinning. The "how to match up the holes to pin" video - I had tons of issues with that when I first started, especially with irregular shaped items going together and also trying to pin metal to metal :D

[@VinceVenturella]

Yeah, it's something I should have talked about more. I'll tell you my trick. For plastic minis, I just pin one side in the center. Then match up the other piece and push really hard into the plastic to create a tiny divot, then drill right there. If you want another clever trick. Put a tiny drop of paint in the center of one side, then press firmly without sliding around, then pull apart, you'll see exactly where the joint hole needs to map and even have it marked for drilling.

[@carlmayne3519]

@@VinceVenturella I eventually ended up using 1.0mm drill bits for 0.7mm paper clips, so I have a bit wiggle room and don't have to be dead on centre - I can then just fill out the rest of the hole with green stuff or similar. lining up was an issue when I had irregular shaped parts that didn't go on straight :D

[@ew1258]

Yes this. Metal to metal is so tricky! Trying to do some dragons from the 80's right now

[@LoneEagle2061]

That was GW's recommended method some time back (I recall seeing it in a White Dwarf); but I've always felt you need a super-short pin which you would use temporarily to get the alignment right (and then replace it with full length later) and I never ended up co-axial... When pinning for strength, I've always found it more effective to put the parts together and then drill into both parts simultaneously from the outside - using a pin cut slightly shorter than the hole and then filling/resculpting the surface afterwards.

[@LoneEagle2061]

@@ew1258; First things I had to pin :-) The Rock Dragon IIRC (came with a wounded knight crawling for his sword (also supplied) to pin under one of the talons. It was a serpentine dragon and the keyed joint in the spinal ridge was never quite enough to support the wings. For large metal models I strongly recommend avoiding cyanoacrylate glues (almost) entirely - it is much slower but I would always go for a good quality (not rapid/5 minute) 24 hour cure epoxy. Cyanoacrylate glues are actually really weak and rely on very tightly matched surfaces (which are unheard of in 80s dragons at least :-) ), epoxy has much more gap-filling ability and will form a much stronger bond.

[@neilmckie2768]

What a great tip about temporarily attaching 'bits' with blu-tac whilst you zenithally highlight. I've found myself permanently fixing things which I'd sooner have left separate for the painting stage - simple solution, which someone simple like me never even thought of :-) Many thanks, mate.

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad it was helpful! :)

[@neilmckie2768]

@@VinceVenturella I used to just pick your videos which I thought were generic to painting and relevant to my needs. However, I've come to realise that I'm picking up tips, hints and techniques from just about all of them, regardless of the main subject content. Once again, thank you

[@jackbrownii]

I've pinned quite a few models. You just blew my mind with the part about putting the wire into the super glue rather than glue on top of the hole. As soon as you said it, giant bright light bulbs went off in my head!

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome, always happy to help. :)

[@mattobrien4849]

I like to use staples for pinning. They're narrower and easier to cut than paper clips and you can store like a million of them in a space the size of a matchbox. They do have pointed ends on them though which are pretty unpleasant when you inevitably drive one into your thumb.

[@VinceVenturella]

That is a wonderful idea, how did I not think of that!!

[@niftyknotter9363]

Thank you for this video. A friend of mine who knows of you and your work here recommended your channel months ago, and I've run into an issue this week needing to learn how to do this. This will help so much in finishing this larger piece. Your work has become one of my first go to's when I need help.

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome, always happy to help. :)

[@bethanygraham427]

Very clear explanation of pinning. Other than not mentioning how to match up the holes, excellent video.

[@Crozierization]

Bethany Graham How do you match the holes?

[@bethanygraham427]

@@Crozierization I use thick paint. Put it round the rim of my drilled hole. Put the parts together and then I have a ring on the other piece.

[@VinceVenturella]

It's a good point, I have 3 different methods specifically for matching (one similar to yours) - maybe I need a bonus video, just for that.

[@redrooster7371]

A friend tought me two essential tricks: Before you glue in the pin you put a tiny dot of blue tac on the ohter part. Than you press the two pieces softly on each other. Now (or after some trying and cursing) you get a small negative where the other hole should be. Jzst drill into this tiny dot. For very small parts you can use needles for acupunture. Attentiin: these are very hard and will fly around when clipped. And they are very pointy too! Another thing I herad a lot but never tried myself is to heat the pin with a lighter and push it into the plastic.

[@VinceVenturella]

I like both of these ideas, i think I need a follow up video just for matching.

[@BlastastiC]

Vince Venturella this is the bit that usually gives me the most bother - there are many many times I’ve ended up with two parts that are ever so slightly out of whack

[@geraldslusser6997]

Thanks for the tip! I've been mini painting outside of Warhammer for years and now that I'm moving to Warhammer I see all this cool pinning and I was like wow how do I do that it's cool :)

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad I could help!

[@xenoterracide]

can't wait to see your master of possession, I used lots of techniques I learned here to make mine, it's one of my best so far.

[@VinceVenturella]

It's going to be fun for sure, I plan to get to it after Warhammer Fest.

[@necrolepsey]

I’m glad I’m not the only hobbyist that’s had a couple ER visits.

[@changer_of_ways_999]

This will definitely help with my forge world Magnus the Red. There's some definitely precarious connections on it I need to strengthen

[@VinceVenturella]

Awesome, happy to help. :)

[@LegendEternal]

Dewalt pilot point bits are the bomb. The cut very well and don't "walk" like cheap bits do.

[@VinceVenturella]

Good note, I will check it out.

[@pezlerthepolychromatic8337]

When pinning to attach a limb to the rest of the figure, how do you make sure that the lead holes that you make will be properly lined up with the pin?

[@VinceVenturella]

So here is my trick. I pin it into the center of one side (usually the body side). Then I line up the arm and push fairly hard into the arm and make a little dent, then I drill it out. That has generally worked well for me.

[@regneale469]

Vince Venturella There is a variation on this which allows for easier lining up. After drilling your pin hole in the first side, insert a pin without gluing it, then cut it off so that only a short piece still protrudes from the hole. Now you can line it up easier to press it against the target side. Once you’ve made the mark, remove the small pin and glue in a longer one which will be the one you actually use for pinning.

[@jasont5427]

PRO-TIP FOR PINNING: Usually joins are wobbly when the hole is much bigger than the actual pin. So, take a small & large paperclip from your boxes and bring it to a hobby shop that has high-speed (so they snap less frequently) micro drill bits to measure with a digital caliper for a proper tight fit (they usually have calipers in the shop, but call first). For example, my small clip is .70 wide so I got the next size up drill bit at .72 so the hole is just slightly bigger than the clip for a very tight fit that won't break off easily. This also saves money by buying specific sized bits (usually approx $1 each) instead of wasting it with a variety of bits that most will never get used anyway.

[@VinceVenturella]

Nice, great tip!

[@jasont5427]

@@VinceVenturella Great tips all around from you Vince, thanks for uploading so many!

[@scalemodelsnail]

Where was this video before I ruined my first pair of sprue clippers!? 😂 I’m in need of learning how to pin a model for the first time and came across your video. Very helpful and informative. Thank you. -🐌

[@VinceVenturella]

Always happy to help!

[@Rosarosa106]

Much love from Vancouver Vince! Thanks a ton for the video 👏🏼

[@VinceVenturella]

My pleasure! Always happy to help.

[@AwulaQ_Q]

Say I'm trying to paint the seraphim sisters of battle (one with flight packs), which part of the body do you recommend pinning in order to paint them easier?

[@VinceVenturella]

I drill up in the flight stand area or into the feet and then don’t use the flight stand.

[@skunk12]

I always try to pin during wrestling matches! 😉😁

[@VinceVenturella]

It's the best time.

[@briangilgan]

When I'm pinning the foot of a space marine I always pin through the heel of the boot so there's almost no chance of drilling through to the other side of the plastic. Similarly for other parts when possible.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, always a good idea. Sometimes they are running on their tippy toes, so you don't have a choice, but it's solid advice.

[@RadioFreeHammerhal]

Omg i cant tell you how long ive been waiting for this one...

[@VinceVenturella]

Well, it only took like 185 videos, but we got there. ;)

[@socklips7655]

Do you drill completely thought the base, or just a small hole for that end of the pin? Trying to figure out how best to set the mini and make it secure enough.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, i drill completely through the base. I cut the pin before I pin it through to size for the space.

[@MarshmallowMadnesss]

I realize I need to pin a fragile mini who is standing on one foot and I'VE ALREADY PAINTED IT! I had it glued to a bottle cap to handle it. I should have planned ahead.

[@polacabatatinha]

Love your videos and this one is a must watch :D I have this doubt for some time here. After pinning the mini on the base, what do I do with the excess paper clip in the bottom? Just cutting it and leaving it be will work? Tried bending it under the base but sometimes it snaps off from the mini.

[@VinceVenturella]

So I clip it to length before I pin it in the base. I don't put the whole long pin in. basically I put it beside the base, find the length and then cut. Then at worst, it pokes out the under recess just a tad.

[@aroundhedleybc7483]

Hey! I suddenly realized you’re Canadian! How do I know? Bilingual labeling in two official languages on the Staples packaging. Either that or you’re an American dealing in contraband Canadian office supplies. A vid on how to line up the holes would be good.

[@VinceVenturella]

Ohio native, but I ordered that box online, maybe it came from Canada. :)

[@Eva-yx1co]

Just did my first sub-assembly, and my mini part rotates relative to the cork, making it so hard to paint! Any tips?

[@VinceVenturella]

Glue the bottom of the pin in place in the cork.

[@Eva-yx1co]

Oh my god why didnt I think of that. Thanks!

[@gregholt5471]

Awesome video thank you.. can you go over how to attach painted parts to completed bases or other painted things and make it look nice.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, clearly we need a follow-up here of the item being attached to the base and matching things up.

[@gregholt5471]

@@VinceVenturella awesome. I don't want to ruin any painting I have done. I all ways paint it after glue and i can not get as much detail.

[@VinceVenturella]

@@gregholt5471 Yeah, I mean the short answer is don't be afraid of ruining your painting. I hear that a lot. You can't really do that. If you have to use a little putty and just paint over that area, it will take like 10 minutes and it's so small, no one will notice. :) - That being said, it's getting it's own video.

[@gregholt5471]

@@VinceVenturella I will try that thank you for the advice it is very much appreciated and I'll be on the lookout for it.

[@naphaneal]

this would be a very useful video for metal minis or very large ones. pinning is a basic necessity with these. and to avoid drilling in one's finger: use a thimble.

[@VinceVenturella]

The thimble is a good idea, I've just never been able to do anything with a thimble on. ;)

[@LandoFabrizian]

"Woop!..Woop!" 😂 Edit: Pinning is dangerous. This video had me cracking up with all of the "Please for the love of Gods..." you had to include in this🤣

[@VinceVenturella]

Sometimes we have to go strong. :)

[@LandoFabrizian]

@Vince Venturella spoken as a true hero 🫡

[@Thanos730000]

Could you do a series about pre and assembly, priming, painting, and final assembly of a model you paint in pieces like that primaris captain. Thank you.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yep, the Prep and Subassembly video is on my list. :)

[@josh5142]

Hey Vince, when painting in sub-assemblies, how do you then cover/hide the seam lines?

[@VinceVenturella]

I think I am going to do a whole follow-up video on that, but short answer is i use all the normal stuff. Putty, gloss varnish, whatever depending on the size of the gap, then just paint that area, it's usually pretty easy to match and it's such a small area, no one will notice.

[@mitziebowman2987]

Dumb question: Can you (or have you) ever used more than one pin to attach larger parts together (like the aforementioned '80's style metal dragons), so there is more support?

[@VinceVenturella]

Absolutely, my Archaon's tails are attached to their bases with double 1/8th inch brass rods.

[@benj7312]

Love your videos, Vince. I've been wondering how you pin them to a plain base though. How do you secure the underside? Just fold it under and secure with modelling clay/super glue/hope?

[@VinceVenturella]

I don't attach anything to a plain base. All of my bases have some mass to them, cork covered in grit and sand, bark as rocks, - basically something the pin can go through. That being said, even if you had a plain base, you would still just run the short pin through and glue, it will still work nearly as well.

[@alessiodecarolis]

Normally I use a pair of thick plasticard pieces glued under the base, so they give more resistance to the pin

[@Cheeseburger2469]

Is there anything extra to keep in mind for thinner joints? I have some models where the arm is the diameter of even small paperclips

[@VinceVenturella]

They are really tough.When it's that small, it's just a near impossible pin. you have to get a razor small drill and a pin that is similarly very, very thin. (I will often just glue and hope when it's that thin).

[@thumbprintsinputty6168]

Very thin brass works well for fine joints, .015 or .010. Repairs fingers in 54mm.

[@quadsnipershot]

So I have tyrandi hormagaunt and I tried drilling at it does not work would green stuff work?

[@VinceVenturella]

Is it a metal model? In any event, yes, a small amount of green stuff can also hold things like this together in concert with a good super glue.

[@BadPabda]

Does plasticglue work? Or should it be super glue?

[@VinceVenturella]

FOr this, you generally need superglue.

[@cutfromstone754]

Great video and thanks

[@VinceVenturella]

Glad you enjoyed it :)

[@Crozierization]

“Just a little dab’ll do ya”

[@VinceVenturella]

Just a little dab. ;)

[@WithinWicked]

How come no one just goes to heat up the pin and slide it into wherever they want if pinning a plastic model?

[@VinceVenturella]

That's interesting, you'd have to get it real hot to melt the plsatic around it, but it's an interesting idea.

[@LandofMert76]

I'm always afraid that the drill bit will be too big for wrists and legs.

[@VinceVenturella]

Yeah, you need to have some small bits (and paper clips) for those thinner places.

[@kendrickwhite4868]

You the goat

[@Xn7000]

So am I the only one who's more curious about the brown to white zenithal on the mini than why Vince is painting space bros? Has facebook ruined you already? ; ]

[@jaretmoskal5558]

XnFM I think the model is going to be an imperial fist so the brown undercoat works well

[@VinceVenturella]

That is correct, it was the Imperial Fist marine captain I shared last week, so the brown undercoat was necessary for the yellow.

[@Baalstudios]

did he say....knee cron? lol

[@VinceVenturella]

Absolutely, mis-pronouncing Necron is a hallmark of the channel. ;)

[@GalaxyStranger01]

This is one instance where I'd forego Cyanoacrylate and use 5 minute epoxy, especially for a competition piece. Cyanoacrylate doesn't adhese to much, let alone metal.

[@VinceVenturella]

It's a fair point, if people are willing to go to full epoxy, you can get a much stronger join.

[@thumbprintsinputty6168]

A dot of epoxie in the middle and a dab of .CA on the edge so you don't have to hold everything for 10 minutes till the 5 minute epoxy dries. Very important for busts and larger pieces.

[@SwashBuccaneer]

Drilling your finger hurts for sure. I took one into my thumb once. Not a pleasant day for sure.

[@VinceVenturella]

On the bright side, I usually try to find a mini I want to add some dried blood to and mix the blood with a little red paint, works great. ;)

[@SwashBuccaneer]

@@VinceVenturella And Khorne cares not from where the blood flows!

[@beybladechallenge7536]

5:29. Ask me how I know...

[@dmstretch6634]

Nee-cron?.... What's a Neecron? Lmfao :P

[@VinceVenturella]

You know, the skull faced Robits. ;)