How to REALLY tie in a D-Loop

[@jstmy2979]

Great video and great content

[@AngusMoss_Archery]

Thank you!

[@alsmith7316]

By far the best D-Loop tying video I have found. I am still kind of new to archery, so I watch this every time before I tie a D-Loop. Just to make sure I do it the Angus way. Which, is well explained and makes a lot of sense.

[@AngusMoss_Archery]

Your awesome! I'm glad you like the video and thanks for watching!

[@davidgreer9567]

Thanks for the video. Glad I found your channel.

[@AngusMoss_Archery]

It's my pleasure and Im glad you found it too! Spread it around if you don't mind! Thanks for watchin!

[@benjaminpiron4192]

Great video ! 🔥

[@AngusMoss_Archery]

Thank you!

[@Luke.Burnosky]

A lot of great information in this video. Best of Luck on your Channel!!

[@AngusMoss_Archery]

Awesome! Thank you for watching!

[@timbow50]

If you use the serving spacer to reduce/ eliminate nock pinch remember the shooter bows have a sharper string angle at full draw so make the “ free space” a little wider. I’ve determined that on my Elite Ritual 33 that gap needs to be a full 1/16”. That means the nock can move 1/16th” up or down when the bow is at rest. I learned by experimenting just like Angus said on a draw board. It will make a huge difference in arrow flight.

[@donaldmckenzie1236]

I'm not doubting what you say I am curious why Bomar said the top melted end should face out away from bow for right hander

[@AngusMoss_Archery]

Hey man! I haven't found anything to support doing it the way that he (and most others) does it. The only benefit that I've seen for doing it the opposite of what I said in the video is that it seems to * very slightly* give the string and your bow arm more clearance from each other. So if your someone who is struggling with arm contact, then the way that I said may make it slightly worse but other than that, I think the way that I explained it is the most beneficial method as far as accuracy and consistency. If you look at two loops tied opposite of each other and think about how each will be influenced by the rotation of the release its makes more since to do it opposite of the traditional way of tying them. God Bless brother

[@YouTubesucks..]

Every video I’ve seen is the opposite of this..especially if you have a thumb button release.

[@ShorrockPaul]

Do you pre cut and ball the ends of your D lopp material and then you ready to go , so no need measure each time (i know for this tutorial you were showing whole process)

[@tonyviers-de9qi]

What am i looking for in the way everything feels at full draw as it pertains to a dloop that is 1/2” versus a loop that is say an inch long

[@TORREX-A.D.]

I'm having a problem with the bcy string not mushrooming good

[@jstmy2979]

So let me go back to the beginning so first tie in mock d loop and paper tune? So on my trx I should set nock height in the center of string axle to axle correct? Then set rest according to spec. Then paper tune adjusting top hats and fine tuning with rest and then come in and tie final d loop? When if ever should you move the d loop up or down? That’s the part that confuses a newbie like me who is doing all his own work on his bows. Meaning in what order start to finish on a new set up or new bow. Thanks again for the videos and all your help

[@AngusMoss_Archery]

So yes I think that's correct if I read it correctly. #1: set your rest where ever you want it to sit (even through burger button, 1MM high, 1MM low, 2MM high, 2MM low, etc) #2: set rest in what ever left and right location you want (13/16, 15/16, 11/16, etc.). #3: put a mock loop on the bow and make it so that the arrow is sitting level on the rest #4: shoot it through paper and adjust your vertical tare by moving your loop up and down the string. #5: shoot it through paper and adjust your horizontal tare by moving top hats (if it's super bad) and then fine tune the horizontal tare by moving your rest if you need to. #6: when you get a bullet hole, make a mark on your string with a sharpie where you nock your arrow. #7: With the arrow installed cut off one side of the loop and tie in your nocking point on that side that you cut off. #8: after you've tied the nocking point in on that side, cut the other side of the loop off and tie in the other nocking point. #9: once you have both nocking points tied in put your loop on around those nocking points #10: shoot it through paper again just to make sure that nothing changed (It shouldn't have but double check it anyways) ---------------- From there you should be pretty much done with your nocking points, rest, and paper tune. Let me know if you need anything else 🙂

[@jstmy2979]

@@AngusMoss_Archery your the man! Thank you so much for taking the time to type that all out! That’s the trouble with text, sometimes hard to understand #4 is where I was lost and information and companies install instructions but really no one brings you from start to finish and since it’s a matter of preference instead of absolutes sometimes small things get lost. I got everything but still had a top tare so I was lost on up with nock point or rest or launcher

[@AngusMoss_Archery]

@@jstmy2979 I totally understand and it's my pleasure to help! I'm glad you're getting everything lined out! Let me know if I can help with anything else! 🙂

[@williamnixon8246]

Hey Angus, do you leave any space in between the tied nocks and the nock to help with nock pinch?

[@AngusMoss_Archery]

You don't have to but you can (like maybe a "serving" space). I don't personally do it but it doesn't mean it won't be what's best for you. I suggest if you have a draw board that after you tie in your nocking points and your d-loop, you draw the bow back and then try to nock and unnock the arrow that you're going to be shooting from the string. Then make a decision based off of the information that you get from doing that.

[@williamnixon8246]

@@AngusMoss_Archery Thank you sir!

[@JDsSportsRoom]

How long is your loop, I shoot a long one also so no torque is applied from me turning my wrist upside down w a thumb release.

[@AngusMoss_Archery]

A perfect loop for a 40" axle to axle bow is 1inch and 21/64th for me. That changes though depending on what axle to axle length bow that you have, your draw length, And where you've chosen to put your nocking on the string. The loops mane purpose in my opinion is to make clearance from the arrow, and the shooters face.

[@jakecabrera9933]

I have a 28.5 Inch draw on a 33 ata bow what size d loop would you recommend, also if you could do a video on how to set up stabilizers I would appreciate it!!

[@AngusMoss_Archery]

So basically you want you D-Loop to be long enough so that there is a good transfer of load from your arms/shoulder into your back. D-Loop length and draw length are NOT connected. You want your draw length to be set in such a way that you don't have very much face contact with the string and little to no contact with the arrow. After you find the draw length that fits you best then you start working on D-Loop length. The purpose of shortening and lengthening your D-Loop to fine tune your anchor point/skeletal structure and "motion in direction" Pressure. Motion in direction is how straight your "push/Pull" pressure is towards your aiming point. (Roughly).. (that's a more complex topic than how I explained it but it's a good foundation of the concept I think) I'll try to get a video up on how to find your correct draw/loop length in the next couple of months. And I'll see what I can do with the stabilizer video. I actually already put one up a couple years ago or so but I had to take it down because it was bad quality and the information wasn't completely accurate after I learned more about it. I'll see what I can do about that too. Thanks for watching and let me know if I need to clearify any of that 🙂

[@lucadya]

Doesn’t fire hurt the bow string 🤔

[@seanpurvis72]

Have you tried or do you have any information as to benefits or drawbacks of a torquless dloop?

[@AngusMoss_Archery]

I've never used one but there is a reason for it. just looking at it and seeing how it works; I honestly think that the torqueless D-loop is very "faddy", unpractical, and very unreliable. A triangle has three points; two base angles (the bottom two angles) and one vertex angle (the top angle). If you think of your axles as "base angles" and your string at full draw as your "vertex angle" you'll want your knock AND your release to sit directly behind that vertex angle. there's no way to get your nock AND your release to both be directly behind that angle with a torqueless D-loop. In the video I moved my knock "out of center" with my release by four serving spaces. With a torqueless D-loop You're going to have to move your knock out of center with your release by around 16 serving spaces.. plus you're nock is going to be sitting on an angled string.. at least until the releases fires.. As the string goes forward after the release fires the angle of the string behind the knock is changing until the arrow releases from it.. not good for forgiveness. Cam timing would probably become an issue too.. All and all I believe that the torquless D-loop sets you up for a lot a trouble.

[@seanpurvis72]

@@AngusMoss_Archery Great answer. Thanks for taking the time to explain it.

[@AngusMoss_Archery]

@@seanpurvis72 of course! Thanks for watching!!

[@mikeguy9668]

Instead of all the overhand knots, just use a constrictor knot on top and bottom with serving. Just put your d loop on either side of the constrictor knots. It won't ever move, you won't get nock pinch and it's not near the bulk

[@AngusMoss_Archery]

No I don't do that.