How To Rebuild a Jeep Wrangler Transfer Case

This video details the process of rebuilding your transfer case. The transfer case in the video is the TJ NV241 4-1 case that comes with the Rubicon package. For a 231 transfer case rebuild, see my other video on my channel.
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Last updated: May 11, 2023

[@chrisdyce4970]

a good wash/degrease of the casing prior to disassembly is best practise

[@daleabbinante8729]

I said that to myself while watching

[@travisbuck3643]

Another big thanks to you Mike First the axles then the transfer case. You've been a huge help through my Jeep build!

[@kasaino]

At 0:59 that large circular gasket with 6 bolt holes / and 6 long slots that looks like it goes between the transmission and transfer case isn't needed. If you look at the bottom of the transmission there should be a small slot that has been machined out at the bottom where it meets the transfer case, and that slot acts as a weep hole if either the transmission output seal or the transfer case input seal leaks. My TJ also had that gasket when I took my transfer case off, but it must've been aftermarket as the dealer said no gasket is needed between the transmission and transfer case.

[@TheBFHGarage]

You are correct. We did not install the gasket either!

[@ljsambell2215]

Great video gents, thank you

[@Winchparts]

I find on these cases it can be easier to stack all the parts into the front case and then you are only fighting the rear case by itself.

[@user-nl5gj7nz1e]

Thanks for the vid. I just had an issue when setting the input gear seal. I tapped it down till it stopped and all looked good. However, the shaft spun sometime during installing the input retainer to the front case half and I noticed the inner rubber of the seal was pulled away from the shaft. I had ATF’d seal, but all I can think happened was that the c-clip gap snagged on the seal and tore it while spinning. There’s nothing on the rear of my transmission that comes anywhere near the seal, so either the seal was bad or i don’t tap it down till it hits bottom with the next seal. Very weird.

[@jfetting]

Do you have a part or model number for the blind hole bearing hole puller you use?

[@jeepcrew2549]

thank you for the video same thing happen to me with the little pin lol man that pin its a problem, it came of destroy my tail housing and tone ring, i have 241j tj rubicon u can't find a tail housing or tone ring anywhere. any way will see how its goes if guys know where to find please tag me know.

[@paolofogaccia9455]

Do you know if ATF +4 fluid contains Friction modifiers? I'd like know to choose better RTV of Permatex. GEAR OIL 81182 (if there are Friction modifiers inside oil). ULTRA Grey 82194 (if there are no Friction modifiers). Thanks a lot

[@TheBFHGarage]

@@paolofogaccia9455 ATF doesn't have friction modifiers. You'll see that in gear oil meant for limited slip differentials. If it has friction modifiers it will say so on the bottle.

[@robertpc100]

great video as like all the rest.Im rebuilding a 231-j from a 99 tj.Where would you reccomend i get my parts please.E-bay has soome kits for like 159.00 and amazon is 200.00 plus.What do you trccomend? Thank you very much and keep up good videos

[@dansharp8042]

What nobody explains before teardown was there any problems with the transfer case that called for overhaul?

[@TheBFHGarage]

No there wasn't. He just said it felt like things were getting sloppy and suspected a stretched chain (it was).

[@JedGrant6]

Did you use anaerobic sealant on the front input shaft inner seal (around the plug that looks like a freeze plug which goes inside the splined input shaft)? Or will RTV work for that?

[@TheBFHGarage]

I can't remember what we did there. We used anaerobic where it called for it, but I just can't remember that step.

[@JedGrant6]

@@TheBFHGarage I went with anaerobic and I think it's fine. The seal is super tight there so I'd be willing to bet it could be pressed in with no sealant and still be fine, but it's good insurance. One thing I noticed is the front input shaft seal that is installed on the exterior of the case (the last step in the front cover) can be installed too deep. It should be flush with the cover because it can contact the bearing if pushed in all the way. I think it just happens depending on the seal; mine was different than the seal you guys used. I'm going to pull the old seal off and install a new National PN 3173.

[@wellwater8927]

I have a 2003 TJ X , when I put it in 4x4 it pops out of 4 hi and when its in 4 lo and I push in the clutch its like the brakes are applied , something is binding in the case . Maybe a bearing ? anyone have an idea what is wrong ?

[@TheBFHGarage]

Popping out of gear sounds like it's not engaging all the way. Do you have stock linkage or are you using a cable shifter? One way to determine if it's in fact the transfer case is to disconnect the shifting mechanism at the t case and manually put it in each gear and test drive it. If it still pops out, then it's a t case problem. If it doesn't, then it's a shifter problem. A cable shifter that is properly adjusted is your best option. If you're still on stock linkage, try adjusting it to see if it shifts better.

[@randyshrimplin9438]

Why did you not change out the oil pump? I have parts on order for mine the new oil pump was only $25-30?

[@TheBFHGarage]

On the NV241 the oil pump is aligned from the factory and taking apart it is not recommended (no serviceable parts). I would leave it unless you have a pump failure.

[@randyshrimplin9438]

Where did you get the rebuild kit? I bought one from Rockauto. It is a USA Standard Brand. The input shaft bearing in it is not the same and it did not come with new thrust washers for the planetary's. I saw your input bearing (The one with the snap ring slot in the center). Mine has the slot on the edge and wont work. Please tell us where you get your rebuild kits.

[@TheBFHGarage]

My buddy said he got it from eBay. No brand name.

[@yelirjekim]

BTW, yoke nuts are Torqued To Yield and should not be re-installed. Should be replaced with new.

[@TheBFHGarage]

Correct! We knew that going in and didn't get the new ones in time. Easy replacement when they came in.

[@TheBFHGarage]

Just a correction to this as I'm scrolling through comments. The nuts aren't actually torque to yield, rather they are simply designed for single use as their effective clamping force is greatly reduced after the first use. Same as a pinion nut. Torque to yield is where a bolt is tightened to a certain spec and then tightened a bit more to a specific degree. Think head bolts.