How to Rebuild Your Shimano FH-MT410 Freehub | Full Tutorial

[@yusrihassim]

Coincidentally, I'm servicing my mt410b freehub now and your video seems to be the only one online. Thanks Ben!

[@-ewen]

Excellent video Ben. Great help to me yesterday as I changed out the bearings, would have struggled without your step by step guide.

[@speedy1490]

Thanks for sharing. Guys like you are real (bike) repair activists. Great work. Im a bike mechanic myself and stuff like this really helps.

[@Bikes-with-Ben]

Thanks, man. I’m glad to be helping out!

[@siwalder1618]

Hi mate. I just wanted to follow up. Just in case you have to do this again, there's a part you can buy for about £10-15 to perfectly press the bearings in. I had them lying around by complete fluke. It's Hopetech part HTT1004 and removes the need to use the freehub or old bearings as makeshift press bits. I was originally using the old bearings and kept getting them stuck.

[@sandstau]

IN all my years watching How to do videos/ this 1 is 1 of the BEST/ Yr a CHAMP. I did break the seal ring on the r/h/s push cap when I used it to get the bearing out/ so then opted for a socket similar size.

[@tomas2810]

Great video! After about 1,500 miles on my Orbea Rise this hub started making a lot of noise. Turned out the inboard freehub bearing was disintegrating. This really is a low-end hub. Thanks to this I did a rebuild and now will keep this as a spare. I bought a new wheel with a much better hub.

[@MrTordify]

Same here but after only 300 km:(

[@unclealig]

On my rise there is a noticeable play when I grab the tire of my rear wheel and go side by side. I also noticed that there is some play on the casette towards the wheel. However, the casette is torqued onto the hub. Thru axle is also torqued. But still some play. I have the H20 and the rear hub is the FH-MT510-B. Any ideas on how to reduce the play. Thx.

[@ado8442]

Hello same here and mine is also making cracking noise while running down small bumps... So sad.. ​@@unclealig

[@augustussoto]

I just got a brand new Torque from Canyon w/ these hubs (which im not a fan of for a few reasons). The threaded nut on the non-drive side came loose and I sent an email to Canyon about getting a replacement, they're like 60 days out fufilling warranty requests, but this vid saved me from that whole process and it was simple af fix. Thank you so much for the vid! happy trails

[@Bikes-with-Ben]

I’m glad this helped! I end up doing a lot of repairs myself because I never want to wait 60 days for a fix before I can ride again.

[@TheRickysee]

You did an amazing job on this! Thank you!

[@ericnelson7905]

Fabulous and helpful video thanks. I re- watched it after of course skimming through the first time. Your listing of the bearings is absolute gold. The freehub bodies are current out of stock everywhere but all I really needed was the inner 6803 bearing which somehow disintegrated in my hub. So for $7 in bearing I could fix it or for $19 I could replace every bearing in the hub. I also have the issue where the freehub wants to turn with the wheel some. Thanks to a second watch of this video, now I know how to solve that. I like your bearing press tool. I use the more complicated Park set but would rather have that smaller set up.

[@fh4635]

Just what I needed, thanks!

[@freestyle88]

Fantastic video! This definitely saved me some time... My 6803 bearing grenaded inside the freehub with only 140 miles on the bike. Inner race and seal gone, with chunks of bearings everywhere. Furthermore, it was clean inside, so it had nothing to do with wear or seals... I had to pound the remaining outer race out by itself with a punch. I suspect they added a 3rd bearing to the freehub body when they realized that their design was not tough enough to handle bigtime torque from people who like to pedal. 😆 When this thing goes again, I'll be switching hubs entirely.

[@Bikes-with-Ben]

@@freestyle88 that’s wild! Those bearings shouldn’t see any torque really though unless maybe the wheel deflects and gets off axis with the axle. Then maybe there’s some pressure on the bearings, interesting.

[@freestyle88]

@@Bikes-with-Ben Agreed... My wheel bearings are still perfect, but not the freehub bearing. It wasn't due to dirt, so something was getting pinched or damaged to cause that bearing to nuke itself. I put mine back together and purposefully left out the spacer that goes between the two bearings this time. I feel like that spacer could have been causing problems if it was being pinched between the inner races. It doesn't seem to do anything except cause the axle to bind. Will update later if it turned out to be a bad idea.

[@FlyingGoober]

Thank you! I think a design flaw is the little aluminum spacer in the free hub. It is engineered too small and as a result gets crusted (smaller) when the wheel is tightened. This results in the first bearing (in the free hub) getting side trust and slowing down wheel speed when the axle is tightened.

[@soulzeug]

That’s a beautiful Sequoia you’ve got hanging there 🤩

[@Bikes-with-Ben]

Got two of them hanging there, one for each of us!

[@trevline06]

Exactly the video I needed!

[@ericnelson7905]

Adding: In my case the issue with the freehwheel spinning with the hub body was I installed the outer seal cap (Part 6) backwards. I don't think there is a plausible reason that the tightness you sand out of the axle to through axle fit at the end causes the free hub to lock to the hub. Neither the hub axle or nor through axle spin when it is locked into the frame and the hub spins around both.

[@SimplSam]

You should definitely have a Super Thanks button, or Patreon etc. Your Video and info in the Description are priceless. My bearings were rumbling and semi-disintegrated - with ball bearings falling out during the freewheel removal, so prepping for the repair ...

[@martonk1555]

Nice, detailed video, thank you. Fun fact: you do not need the chain tool to tighten the casette. :D

[@ado8442]

Hello Ben please , can you tell me if i want to tight the left side by adjustable wrench then the right side cassette must be removed? And also the hub?? Or just end cap, thanks a lot

[@Игорь-ш7ф9к]

Excellent video. Everything is described in detail and clearly. Tell me how to solve the problem. I can't understand why after assembling a similar hub - the freehub rotates very tightly. Do the pedals have no free play in the opposite direction? Thank you,

[@Bikes-with-Ben]

@@Игорь-ш7ф9к I had that problem with this one as well and if I remember right it was either an improperly seated bearing in the hub itself of too much grease around the pawls. I took it back apart and fully rebuilt it a second time and was able to get everything working well. Good luck!

[@Игорь-ш7ф9к]

Thanks for the answer! But I didn't touch the bearings and didn't change or add any grease (it's good). The problem is somewhere in the assembly itself. I took it apart again - no result.

[@MrTordify]

Amazing video! 👍🙌

[@frățiee]

Thanks for video !

[@aussiebg2628]

Hi, thanks for the video, I have one of these hubs and am about to do my first ever service on it. Can you confirm if the bearings you installed were new or did you clean out the existing ones, regreased and re-used? I have bought myself a bearing puller tool to do the removal instead of using a mallet etc so they might not be damaged as much - thoughts on this method??

[@Bikes-with-Ben]

@@aussiebg2628 I would use new bearings if your old one’s have any signs of grittiness or play. If they seem good, a regrease would probably be fine. The bearings are quite cheap though and I’d hate to go through all the work of rebuilding without replacing the bearings.

[@Themilkmanskid.]

If you didn't want to service this hub, could you have bought just a new hub body and replace it to fix your problem, or would you have to undo the spokes and all and replace the whole hub? Signed, Newbie.

[@panmisiek69]

Great research Ben! Very helpfull video. Thank a lot!

[@Leo-gt1bx]

How good are these hubs I've just built a pair of wheels with the FH-QC500-MS and HB-QC400 sealed bearing hubs. Were they a bad purchase?

[@RayWost]

Thank you very much 4 this video..

[@siwalder1618]

You legend 🙌 this was perfect. I'm gonna sub.

[@frankcf11]

Hi Ben ! Thanks for the video. I don´t know that it is possible for you to solve this doubt but in the min 21:50 I can see the shaft spacer. My question is does this spacer have to be inside the hub bearing?

[@Bikes-with-Ben]

There are 2 spacers, theres one with a tapered end that is inside of the free hub. Then there is the one you see in at 21:50 that may or may not be present on your bike. It seems that some free hubs have two bearings pressed in the wheel side of the free hub. If there are two bearings in there, the spacer isn't needed. Mine only had one bearing, but I think in many iterations of this repair, I ended up removing the spacer and adding a second bearing to my free hub. This was a year ago though so don't quote me on that!

[@frankcf11]

​@@Bikes-with-Ben Thanks Ben, As you mentioned, my system has a spacer and a bearing that doesn't work well, so much so that after greasing my Shimano FH-MT410-B hub and putting the whole hub body on it doesn't rotate properly, sounds so good to replace the spacer or put a bearing in its place. Personally I prefer a bearing. Thanks again for your reply and have a good weekend.

[@loulou_sur_2roues]

Wow thanks I have the same bike and same freehub issue. I just replaced the bearing and everything but when I put the wheel back , the end cap is really hard to turn. The cassette tries to follow. Any idea where it could come from ? Thanks for the video, me too was looking all over the place for the last month

[@loulou_sur_2roues]

nevermind I figured , the exterior labyrinth seal was on the wrong side, thus having a larger stack width. The seal from the end cap was rubbing on the labyrinth seal in the freehub. Thanks again for your video

[@Bikes-with-Ben]

@@loulou_sur_2roues sorry I didn’t reply to this, KZbin isn’t sending me notifications for some reason! Glad you got it fixed!

[@Leo-gt1bx]

How do you find them?

[@tom.mcf.]

Glad you got your wheel spinning so nicely. :) Do you know the part number for the hub axle or where to order one?

[@Bikes-with-Ben]

You can find the full parts list in the exploded view here: si.shimano.com/en/ev/FH-MT410-4716 - I think you have to order with the bearings and end caps in order to get the hub axle itself.

[@S14AA]

I just found that axle tube broken on mine, hard to find spares for this hub

[@benlake6390]

Very good video

[@bohous808]

Anybody know if this is the same as the MT400 hubs?

[@gerardguadayo1788]

Is the FH-MT410 part of the Deore line? I thought the MT500 series is the Deore. I have this hub because I got it from a bundle but I'm planning to buy the MT500 because I thought this was a non-series hub.

[@Leo-gt1bx]

Different bearings. The FH-QC500-MS is the sealed cartridge version.

[@3CityRide]

Just use Google? First hits on Shimano website says that's, a Deore lineup hub (like it's important - it's just a name?). Very nice hub - one of the first cartridge bearing type from Shimano (at last) - easy to work on.

[@eatnosenuggets]

Is the centerlock brake removal tool 16 notches? Suppose I can take my wheel out and count.

[@Bikes-with-Ben]

Yep, 16 it is.

[@mytoyota80]

Nice.

[@joncrunk598]

Novice inquiry: According to Shimano, this hub uses an E-THRU axle, but the one you have looks like a normal thru axle. Do you think the SRAM Maxle (Stealth M12x1.0 174mm (Thread Length 13mm)on my bike would be compatible?

[@Bikes-with-Ben]

That’s a good question actually. I looked further into it to see if I could find the exact dimensions of mine without going out to the garage and I didn’t see anything other than the E-Thru. I would think yours would work. Mine is definitely an M12x1.0 and then however long is necessary for the boost spacing (148 plus some). If your axle for for a boost spacing rear wheel I would think it would work just fine.

[@joncrunk598]

👍...Thanks!

[@danvalicek]

Can i convert the mt410b to sram xd?

[@UrbanoFloripa]

I think you forgot a bearing inside the freehub body, shouldn't there be 3 inside it? Two 6803 and one 6802.

[@Bikes-with-Ben]

There’s no good documentation on this since Shimano doesn’t recommend taking these apart, but it seems to be both. I’ve seen videos of the freehub body having 3 total bearings and then I’ve seen ones like mine that only had 2. I did try to add another bearing to mine, ended up taking it back out. So, to answer your question, yes and no… it depends on what yours had when you took it apart.

[@tom.mcf.]

I think the FH-MT410-B has three bearings. It is the Boost version of this hub.

[@Bikes-with-Ben]

@@tom.mcf. this is the boost version that I’m showing here. I found it weird too, but it seems to be inconsistent.

[@fastsvo]

Can super lube be used on the bearing seals and hub ring?

[@Bikes-with-Ben]

Yeah, that should be just fine. You’re just adding a little bit of an extra water seal with the grease there, nothing special.

[@StevePhipps-ChasingTrails]

Just done one and there were 3 bearings in the freehub.

[@RachelGoddard-b5i]

Removed free hub body andnouter seal bussing stuck what do i do

[@Bikes-with-Ben]

Is this the bushing on the freehub body or on the hub itself? Removing the bearings is not a delicate process. Basically just smack it with a hammer and blunt object until it comes loose.

[@khoi_tran]

Weird. My MT410 has two 6803 bearings on the pawl side of the freehub and one 6802 on the cassette side. I have a Giant Trace 29 3.

[@Bikes-with-Ben]

Yeah, it’s odd. It seems to be different for different people, but I haven’t been able to narrow it down as to why some have two and others only have one.

[@dago_0730]

Since when Shimano gave up the good old cups and cone technology ? 😢

[@Bikes-with-Ben]

My newest video show me tearing down a pretty new SLX hub and it’s got the cup and cone. Don’t worry, it’s still around!

[@Leo-gt1bx]

Thank god they did.

[@richibierk3680]

Привет Это надежная втулка?

[@Bikes-with-Ben]

Я проехал на байке всего около 100 миль с тех пор, как поменял втулку. До сих пор это было надежно, но время покажет.

[@richibierk3680]

@@Bikes-with-Ben круто получилось

[@big_bird8597]

shitmano is a pathetic excuse of a company for not supplying info to consumers

[@Bikes-with-Ben]

@@big_bird8597 ehh I wouldn’t go that far, I think it’s just hard to provide super detailed info for the thousands of parts they have

[@big_bird8597]

@@Bikes-with-Ben well if your a bike shop and certified dealers they send more detailed instructions and send you to training, all while making parts proprietary so shops can stay afloat. Shimano IMO is apple of the bike world