My recommendation is the XT Shifter, SLX Rear Derailleur, Deore or SLX Cassette, and XTR chain if you can get it for around $50 or less. Otherwise any of the chains will work. I have videos for all of those components as well if you want to learn more! Oh, and SLX cranks! The XT dual piston brake set is my favorite as well. I don’t have a video on that one yet.

@ thanks for youe reply. Do you recommend jenson usa to buy these. Total cost was 378.95 without brakes.

@ Jenson, Worldwide Cyclery, Local Bike Shop, or Amazon. I typically shop around for price and availability.

@@Miguel-tu2so With the Shimano 12-speed components you can mix and match any of the components. My recommendation is the XT Shifter, SLX Rear Derailleur, Deore or SLX Cassette, and XTR chain if you can get it for around $50 or less. Otherwise any of the chains will work. I have videos for all of those components as well if you want to learn more! Oh, and SLX cranks!

@@Bikes-with-Ben I took your advice, thank you so much! it really helped me out!

@@Miguel-tu2so That’s great man, I’m glad I could help!

Sure thing! amzn.to/4iAGs1B

@@Bikes-with-Ben awesome dude. I knew I saw the tool in one of your videos but wasn't sure which episode it was. thanks again kudos for the great contents. keep it up

@@CLONisKING that’s a valid point. And yeah I was looking at the chain prices recently and saw that the XTR wasn’t as cheap as when I made the video so definitely no issues getting any of the other chains if the value is there!

@@francey1987 thank you for the kind words, I’m glad I was able to help!

I think you’re right!

@@FullSenderson 😂😂 the chain was falling off the front chain ring and really let loose when I grabbed there at the end. Popped her back on and we’re all good!

@@vektr6278 I don’t believe so. The shifters are “indexed” meaning that they pull the cable a specific distance for each gear. Since the cable is connected to the derailleur, it needs to pull the cable a set amount to move the alignment of the derailleur in line with the next gear up and down. If the road gearing had the same indexing as the MTB stuff it would work, I I don’t think they do.

@@cameronhrussell I’m trying to remember how the code works. It will provide the spline file based on your actual trip timing. From there you could speed that up to your desired duration. But, I think the best way would be to modify the spline file and replace the timing component of each data point with just a fixed duration. It wouldn’t be too bad to do modify idt. You might be able to modify the code faster than modifying a single spline file.

@@Bikes-with-Ben Thanks for the quick response! Thinking maybe it's an excuse to teach myself some coding and figure out how to use your tool in conjunction with a modifier step that would remove extra points by a certain factor if that makes sense. Then I could reduce the time of the animation, but preserve the stops, etc. that were true to the ride... if that makes sense? Also thinking I could make a file that I could copy that has number of frames and .01, .02, .03, etc and just substitute that if I just want the animation and don't need it to have pauses/pace that was true to the actual ride.

@@cameronhrussell absolutely! ChatGPT or Claude.ai have helped my so much with code over the last few years! You can get VSCode and run all of my code locally and modify whatever you need!

@@testtesttesttesttest884 I don’t know all that much about what’s best for an e-bike to be honest. I know the e-bikes can make a lot of torque so they may need something beefier than the 12 speed lineup, but again I’m no expert!

@@Yoda-em5mt thanks! I’m not sure I understand your question. Back pedaling won’t change the gear you’re in.

@Bikes-with-Ben what I mean is if your in the largest sprocket and you back pedal half a turn does the chain drop of the large sprocket .

@ gotcha, no it should not unless something is bent or misaligned

@@penscratch the Zigbee side of things hasn’t been an issue at all. The touch interface seems to have a mind of its own on when it wants to be responsive. You can always get it to work, but sometimes it takes a few slow taps to wake it up and have it accept your presses. All in all, i wouldn’t recommend it. I haven’t looked for alternatives, but I liked my Schlage lock at my old house better.

​@@Bikes-with-Ben Good to know. I ordered the 914 instead. I had the dumb version of that lock for a few years and it worked great. I wanted a smart option, picked up the Wyze lock on sale. When it works, it's great. When it doesn't, it is infuriating and after a couple years, it works less and less as expected. I'm hoping the physical buttons on the 914 are as reliable as the dumb version of that lock. I use deconz on home assistant for all of my zigbee devices and the blakadder says it is compatible. We will see in a couple of days when it arrives. Maybe I'll report back and let you know

@@jblecoz I replaced my spacer with a second bearing and haven’t noticed any issues so far!

@@Bikes-with-Ben ok thanks for the fast answer. So 2 bearing next time.

Me again to say that i change again the freehub bearing in the pawls side (the 6803) that was bad again after 2000km this time (the original last 1000km). So in order to make this freehub reliable, i put two 6803 instead of one. I try without the spacer (that doesn't fit anymore) and it kind of work : due to the conical form of the axle, the freehub lock in the right place. BUT a little play appear in wheel (the main bearing are not tightly fit on the axle). Before the freehub modification, this little play can be ajust by tighten the wheel to squeeze the bearing and spacer. After the modification, this not possible as there is a void between the right wheel bearing and the freehub. I wasn't confortable with the situation knowing that the bearing were free floating on the axle. So i end up reshaping the spacer : the original spacer is 6,5mm minus the 5mm of second bearing, so i cut/sand the original spacer to 1.5mm. After some test, it work nicely without any play in the main bearing, but it need to be tested in the long run to see if it's more reliable...

@ that’s good information! I’m not sure if mine had that play I just didn’t notice it. Based on the design as you describe it, that spacer does seem important! Hopefully it works out long term for you, thanks again for sharing all of your results!

@@kaljam2 somehow I completely missed that, thanks!

I just realized I have another issue too... I was hoping add a baselayer map under the fusion composition, to position it on a map for context, but the shape is quite different than on anything I can find on Google Maps, Garmin, Strava, etc... it's almost as if the gpx shape is stretched horizontally, so it's impossible to line it up. Happy to share some screenshots to explain if you're willing to have a look!