How to Reload .223/5.56 For Beginners Easy and Fast

[@krisgreenwood5173]

I don't reload my .223/5.56 exactly like K2 Defense but for a beginner this is a great video. I have been reloading since 1976 so I have my own personal techniques, but this video would of been greatly appreciated when I was learning the process. I did it the hard way, I learned it on my own with no help. In today's America the quick and easy answer is look it up on KZbin and see what someone else with experience is doing.

[@k2defense]

Kris Greenwood- thanks for the comment! I pinned your message for others to read. Great perspective from a veteran reloader!

[@krisgreenwood5173]

@@k2defense There is so many more tools to help the new reloader that I didnt have in 1976. I have added some of those tools to my reloading repertoire. Not only does it make reloading easier, but it's possible to create safe and accurate ammo the first time at the bench.

[@k2defense]

@@krisgreenwood5173 👍🏻

[@tombo552001]

I know what you mean, I started in the late 70's and there was no one to show you how to do it.

[@1stFlyingeagle]

That is why I share as well. I believe in not wasting any time on any of the steps to finished rounds that are of excellent quality. I started out as cheap as possible with all I did. But found that it sucked up major time and produced very low volume for my time. Yep spent money all the long the way. But now I am productive and my time is maximized.

[@csmphotography]

Collect the brass, sort the brass, de-prime, wet tumble, dry, de-crimp, lube, re-size, trim, bevel (de-burr), chamfer, prime, flare the case mouth, powder, seat the bullet, crimp (Lee factory crimp die), dry tumble (yes, it is safe to tumble loaded ammo), package. Hand de-prime, Hand prime. Separate sizer, expander, seater and crimper. Lube is made with lanolin and 91% rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle. I have been at this for 33 years with no major problems. If you go through all of these steps, I can guarantee you will shoot slower because of the time and effort it takes to make precision ammo.

[@k2defense]

Hello Brandon Gun Works! Great comment!

[@BigDmike24]

Shoot and repeat

[@kevinpeters9190]

I currently shoot a 223 event that requires 30 rounds of 223 per shooter. (The event is called the 223x39. 39 steel targets at 80 yards, 2 shooters, 1 seated with a bench rest, 1 standing shooting off hand. Fastest time wins.) So while this is a very good training video. No, I do not have time to do this reloading. Price vs. Cost. What does it cost to purchase 223 ammo vs. the cost to purchase all the necessary reloading equipment, parts, powder, bullets, etc.? For me I will continue to purchase 223 ammo and not reload. Up to my ass in brass and still shooting fast.

[@k2defense]

Don’t get buried in all that brass brother! 😂👍🏻 thanks for the comment!

[@RonBussiere-c2t]

New subscriber here and just wanted to say your video was excellent! I started reloading around 1970 and now load for 40 different ctgs. Last count, I had 80 sets of dies. Although I have a Dillon XL650, I really enjoy the slow, methodical process with my RCBS Rock Chucker. When I first started reloading with something more advanced than the Lee Loaders, (hammer time!), I could have bought the RCBS smaller press, but to this day, I am VERY happy I purchased the RC. Thank you. I would have added nothing to your fine explanation of this process!

[@k2defense]

Hey Ron! Thanks for the comment. Really appreciate you taking the time to leave the positive feedback. Thank you 👍🏻

[@perspicator5779]

Great final tip on seating, crimping and re-seat final adjustment setting.

[@k2defense]

@perspicator5779 - appreciate the comment! 👍🏻

[@wxfield]

That was really helpful. I have never reloaded before and this got me going. Especially the reloading manual..gotta say just thumbing through that book was really intimidating, but you walking through the highlights between .223 and 5.56 in the book really helped me figure out how to use the tables.

[@k2defense]

@wxfield - glad to hear this video was helpful. I’ll be dropping more videos soon so make sure your subscribed and your notifications on so you don’t miss them! Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻

[@wahttehfuk]

Thank you very much for including your process and measurements. Hornady is supposedly somewhat infamous for having very poor instructions, and Ive only just gotten started reloading in the last month or so. Starting with 556, this video was enormously valuable! Fingers crossed I wont blow up an AR, but I'm pretty confident I can at least get something that will cycle! Loading 62gr bullets into cleaned hp ZSR casings, with 25.6gr of BL-C(2) powder. Very excited to see if i can beat factory ZSR accuracy!

[@k2defense]

@wahttehfuk - glad you found this video helpful! Good luck on your journey! Let us know how project turns out! Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻

[@wahttehfuk]

@@k2defense Thank you very much. Just finished with my first load of 556, and it didn't go too badly. Casing length is 1.763", casing neck is 0.2475", powder load is 26.6gr of BL-C(2), using 62gr bullets, with a COAL of 2.224" It looks like everything is relatively within spec, so I'll be plopping this load into the trash build AR on Monday to see if it shoots, and if I get consistent FPS!

[@k2defense]

@wahttehfuk - awesome! Just curious, why are you throwing them away? I’d suggest keeping them and loading them into your mage and cycling them. If you feel that they are within specs, why not send them? Just wondering. Well done!!! 👍🏻

[@wahttehfuk]

@@k2defense I didn't throw them away, I just put them into a gun I wouldn't have minded losing - it went great! I went out today, got a very consistent ~3000fps (16" barrel), and didn't have any failures. The ammunition shot roughly 1.8 MOA, but I have a feeling that was on me, and not the rifle. Thank you for the video once again, and all the interest. It's been a wonderful journey, and I can't wait to be as experienced as you!

[@k2defense]

@wahttehfuk - that’s awesome! Always love hearing that things work out well! I’ve been more than frustrated in my time reloading from time to time. You feel like a hero when you finally figure out what you’re doing wrong. 😂Glad you find the videos helpful! More to come! Appreciate the dialog! 👍🏻

[@decibellx2194]

nice and well explained vid. one thing i had happen which is why i now use Lee Resizing lube inside the neck of my brass - why, because at one time i had the neck resizing ball (which is a carbon Dillion) jamb inside some brass, its an extra step but WOW what an experience that was.

[@k2defense]

@decibellx2194 - great tip! Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻

[@jelly9197]

Thanks for the info. You addressed a couple areas some of the others didn’t.

[@k2defense]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻

[@Dwayne7834]

I have Lee 223 dies. Never had any problems with loading rounds for my rifles. I have read and saw UR video on KZbin about the small base dies. I am missed something about the regular die versus the small base dies . Thanks for the video and information.

[@k2defense]

Hello @user-rl7eq5nq4x, If whatever you’re using works, stick with it. The biggest success in reloading is repeatability. I run small base dies when reloading for my AR platforms. Depending on who you talk to or what literature you read, you’ll get mixed opinions and emotions on whether or not small base does are actually needed for the AR platform. My small base dies work perfect for what I need and do. If the dies you currently use work for you, I wouldn’t change your technique. Hope this helps!

[@BigDmike24]

Me too on the lee die set. I also have Redding dies not small base. Works just fine. They fit into the wilson check jig. .. Shoot em...

[@KillerKev1961]

Having trouble loading 5.56 with lee dies. First off, the 224 projectiles loosely fit in the neck-there is practically nothing to keep the proj from slipping into the case. I dont know what Im doing wrong. I reload 338 LM no prob, but the 223/556 is killing me lol.

[@k2defense]

@killerKev1961 - are you camming over your resizing die? I think you don’t have the resizing die turned down far enough. Watch this video. Different caliber but same setup. Try that and let me know if it worked. If not, holler back and I have a few more ideas. 👍🏻 kzbin.info/www/bejne/oaW4l6d5oquSaM0si=GYvHWBxT7cSdfrIT

[@KillerKev1961]

@@k2defense Yeah, I think this is the problem. I will try again this evening. Thank you for the reply.

[@k2defense]

@KillerKev1961 - Happy to help! Keep us posted! 👍🏻

[@scottjohnson3226]

Thank you for the informative video!

[@k2defense]

@scottjohson3226 - glad you found it helpful! Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻

[@tomferrel7017]

Totally new to reloading. Wondered why the necks were dimpled. Problem solved. Tyvvvvm.

[@benmoyer1911]

Separate the 5.56x45 from the .223 Remington. The 5.56x45 has thicker brass and therefore has less case volume. That leads to higher pressure if both cases use the same load data. You wanna know why you're not supposed to use 5.56x45 in a .223 Remington rifle... that's why, the pressure is different. Other than that, a 62 grain penetrator is longer than a 62 grain standard lead full metal jacket. They actually do have different load data in some manuals. If not in your manual, definitely start on the lower side if using the steel tip penetrators.

[@benmoyer1911]

I have actually cut different headstamps in half and measured the brass thickness in different areas of the case. My statement is not spreading rumors.

[@outlaw615]

If you have a rifle chamber in 556 you can shoot 223 so it'll be fine however you are correct if chamberd in 223 you CANNOT shoot 556 out of it

[@k2defense]

Great information! 👍🏻

[@k2defense]

Agreed! 👍🏻

[@k2defense]

@outlaw615 - perfectly stated! 👍🏻

[@johnmontana8540]

Do you organize it so you can do a bigger batch in a shorter amount of time? Or does it have to be a one-at-a-time process? And how many can you get done in, say, a couple hours? Thanks!

[@k2defense]

@johnmontana8540 - I go through a lot of .223/5.56 so I have what I call an assembly line. I use big containers and label them, clean, cleaned and resized, cleaned resized ready to reload, etc. it’s a great system if I have an hour or so I can grab the “ready to be primed” container and hand prime them while watching tv or what have you. I usually have a couple of five gallon buckets full that always need cleaning so I just dump them in when I know I’ll be around a few hours and keep an eye on them. I’ve always have something going on in the background keeping me busy. Personal organization is not something I typically try to teach others since everyone has their own method of madness. I have a system that works for me that I’m continually improving to save time, energy, and money (if possible). I really should make a video of how I do it. I just figure people figure out their own way with the space they have. Great question! 👍🏻

[@johnmontana8540]

@ thank you for the detailed response! I’m just now starting to look into it so I want to have a strategy before I start buying things and throwing them on the bench lol. Have a good one thanks again!

[@graybeard101]

nice and clear not a bad introduction. But the flash hole uni former is for the burr on the inside of the case and definitely not the primer pocket side that's why its so long

[@k2defense]

Correct! However, after I resize the brass, it lo longer fits in the case mouth. One way I avoid this is to use a universal depriming die to knock out the primer without resizing. I should’ve explained that in the video. Good catch! 👍🏻

[@Ali.Alamdari]

It was very good and useful, thank you very much

[@k2defense]

Glad it was helpful!

[@phild8095]

Thinking of reloading? Here’s some tips and warnings from a reloader and retired engineer. Kinda long, and it is no where near everything I know. If you are considering reloading to save money, know this, your first round may cost easily a thousand dollars for press, dies, scale, powder measure, book, caliper, trimmer, deburrer, reamer/swager, locking rings, cleaning equipment and materials, lighting, bench, powder, primers and bullets. And it can be very time consuming. With a single stage press I can make some nice cheap 9mm ammo at a rate of a hundred rounds in 1.5 hours with a material cost of under 20 cents a round, 223 for 30-35 cents a round. This time includes, time spent on set up, take down and clean up. It took me a few thousand rounds to pay off my equipment compared to buying ammo off the shelf. That's a lot of evenings sitting at the reloading bench. And if include the time scavenging brass, sorting brass and searching for in stock materials, add many more hours. For a while it was look online an hour a week for MONTHS at a time. If you are easily distracted, don't like to follow or read instructions, cut corners because you think you might get away with it, don't have time or space, reloading may not be for you. Reloading can be safe or it can be dangerous. It is your choice. NEVER eat, smoke, drink, or have distractions while reloading. Many powder manufacturers list their loads online. But get the book and read and understand all the introductory chapters before starting reloading. Then read them again when you think you know what and why you are doing. Shortages suck, and they will eventually happen AGAIN. Keep a minimum stockpile of 1 years worth of reloading components. More is better. It also counters inflation. There are proper ways of storing primers and powder. You can find them at the Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI). ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. Sooner or later we all need them. Some people even wear disposable gloves because nitroglycerine (powder) can affect blood pressure and cause big problems. Work in a comfortable well lit area; this minimizes the chance for mistakes. And a solid bench is good for consistency. Some videos show so much bench flex we wonder when the press will come off. ALWAYS wash up after handling any of this stuff. Lead doesn't have to be fast to mess you up. Primers contain a lead chemical. Powder contains nitroglycerine and nitrocellulose and other chemicals. There is a case length specification with minimum and maximum, a minimum cartridge length based on powder and bullet and a maximum cartridge length based on the caliber. Know them all, or at least have them written down. SAAMI website has great pdf’s for this info. Some reloading books do not contain the minimum case length. ALWAYS follow the instructions for die set up and the recipe for powder weight and overall length. Steel and aluminum cases are not reloadable, but can be recycled as metal. Brass is reloadable. Nickel plated brass is reloadable. There's a couple types of primers, Boxer and Berdan. Boxer primers have once center hole on the inside of the case. These can be reloaded. Berdan has two holes inside the case and cannot be reloaded. If you run them through a sizing or decapping die you can break the decapping pin. There are different sizes and powers of primers, small pistol, large pistol, small rifle, large rifle, and then there's match, magnum, and so on. Know what you need and buy that. Clean up your equipment, dies, scale, caliper and bench when done. Then toss out the trash. Some of us deprime before cleaning, it gives a clean primer pocket. Lightly lube the press shaft and hinge points. In a big run, don’t wait to be done, but clean and lube once in a while. ALWAYS inspect your brass for cleaning media before reloading. If wet tumbling; make sure it is absolutely dry. Some of us swage/ream the primer pockets of all our 9mm, 40 S&W, 5.56 NATO, 7.62x51 NATO and other military/police cases unless we have done this to the case previously. Mashing a primer into a tight hole can set it off or give you a bad round. Some pistol brass has been bulged because of what firearm it was shot out of. (the dreaded Glock bulge for one) And because of the space between the shell holder bottom and the bottom of the die, not the entire brass gets resized. Lee has a bulge buster kit that's fairly cheap for eliminating this problem. (more costs, spend that money) NEVER mix different powders in a load or a powder feeder. If it happens accidentally, toss it. It is not worth the risk of blowing up a gun or getting injured. ALWAYS store your powder and primers in a cool dry location. Heat and humidity will damage them both. Some sizing dies have carbide inserts, this allows you to not have to lube your case before sizing. If you do not have carbide inserts you should lube the cases because they may get stuck in the dies. After resizing a lubed case you need to either wipe or wash off the lube. If you wash then you have to re-dry. If you lube cases, some of that lube will cake up in the die eventually. Clean it out. Legally unless you have a specific FFL you cannot legally sell your reloads. (just sayin') People will ask you to sell your reloads. If something goes wrong do you have a lawyer? Keep your loaded ammo identified by the recipe you used. If (when) you have a problem you want to be able to isolate it. Tossing multiple runs of ammo into an ammo can is just asking for a problem. Also, record all you loads in a separate log. This will give you recipes you can reuse, or starting places for future recipes. Some ammo can be loaded with cast lead or plated or coated ammo. It is cheaper. But if you are using mixed manufacturer brass to load it your case length and therefore crimp may vary. This crimp variation can lead to the coating coming off and your barrel being leaded or exceptionally high pressure which can cause damage or injury. Therefore, some of us trim our cases to a uniform length before loading these bullets. A great source of information is The Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) You can find detailed cartridge drawings including tolerances, storage recommendations, and other good info there. Check it out. There's also questions like can I use this die for that load? 380 cannot be reloaded with 9mm dies. While they look close except for the length, they taper differently. Don't bother trying. 38 special can be reloaded with 357 magnum dies.

[@k2defense]

@phild8095 - always enjoy your comments! I hope viewers are taking note! Thanks for your comment! 👍🏻

[@bobbyb7127]

That was a long read. LOL thanks, a lot of good info!

[@michaelgreene-d9c]

Excellent video. I am a beginner and this is as basic as you get. Very close attention to detail. I like that. My AR is chambered in 5.56. The only think I did not hear was the differences in wall thicknesses of the two casing and volume of internal space available for powder. There are also pressure differences between the 5.56 vs .223. I have watched several other videos that are very technical in nature and explain the pressure and casing sizes. This video, coupled with the other information is the best I've seen for beginners. Thank you for making this video for beginners.

[@k2defense]

@user-wj4hx1bf2y - appreciate the feedback! 👍🏻

[@anubis8680]

For beginners and experienced loaders alike, this is a great note. Head-stamp sort your brass, and even if in the same caliber, check case volume. Over 12 years reloading and I found some fresh once fired .308, and I was like oh cool, it was bolt gun run nice and clean 40 odd free pieces! Well even though it was .308 head stamped its internal volume was the smallest of any brass I have seen! Far less than 7.62! For those not knowing .223/5.56 and .308/7.62 its the internal volume, and the inner chamber throat dimensions on the barrels that are different. Well this loaded round went boom hard, smoked primer and had to hammer the bolt open. Went home double checked, bullet was the right weight, powder charge was ok, but the brass internal volume was 6 whole grains less than other marked .308 Winchester brass of the same height! 6 grains. if scavenging... be careful and double check everything!

[@earlforthun3838]

I’m glade I found you videos, you made the reload book and the die settings easy to understand it’s not so scary thanks 😊

[@k2defense]

Earl Forthun - glad my videos help! Happy reloading!

[@cjf3838]

I'm just curious - after buying all the equipment and required materials, how many cartridges do you need to reload to make it cost-effective? And that doesn't include your time spent reloading. And would hollow points be more difficult to reload? I'm assuming it is more of a hobby than worth the effort?

[@k2defense]

Hey CJ! This is a rabbit hole question that I get asked all the time. I didn’t get into reloading for cost savings. That is one of the benefits of reloading over time. There is no ammo that is “harder” to reload, in my opinion. You will be more particular with competition shooting and self defense reloading rather than plinking rounds. Sandy Hook is my reason. Ammo disappeared, couldn’t find anything. I didn’t like that feeling. The rest is history. It takes time and practice. But for me, it’s totally worth it. I know what I have and how it will handle when I need it to perform. Hope this helps! 👍🏻

[@1stFlyingeagle]

Ok. Lee auto prime is now my second favorite tool. RCBS bench mount is my favorite. Major reason. Wasting time Fing around to get a primer to the case is just wasting valuable time. If you waste time on all the tasks, you don't get the quantity done. I did not say less quality. Yes, quantity with high quality.

[@joelshrader7616]

I love the video. I just got an AR and was seriously considering reloading my own ammo . . . however, it really seems like it is not worth it. My time is better spent working and buying bullets. It would be helpful if you could list how long it would take to reload 100 or 200 rounds, when not recording, for reference. I do appreciate your time!

[@k2defense]

Joel Shrader - I get this question a lot. Time to reload depends on several things. Tumbling the brass to clean it takes a couple of hours. The time to resize and reload per 100 is probably around an hour. I don’t like to rush through things so I take my time trimming, measuring, etc. progressive presses can cut a lot of time. However, I prefer my single stage press which requires more time. Hope this helps! 👍🏻

[@joelshrader7616]

@@k2defense Thank you for replying, I do appreciate it. 100 rounds an hour is pretty good! I could see myself doing this! Thanks again.

[@k2defense]

@@joelshrader7616 happy to help! 👍🏻

[@bobbyb7127]

I think about its more of enjoy the journey. I enjoy this better than working my job even if working I could easily buy more ammo than I can reload myself.

[@Therealmortard]

when you reload do you sort the 5.56 brass by headstamp or case weight? i know everyone goes into depth about that but can i just use the same load on all cases? for ex if i have ppu and lake city brass can i use the same primers, powder charge and bullet in those cases? or should i sort all my brass and have a load for each brand so when i load bulk i do all those at the same time

[@k2defense]

@Therealmoletard - for plinking, I do not sort. Some will say that you have to. I just keep my loads midrange. I never make a hot load with mixed brass. For precision shooting, yes, I sort, weigh, etc. just make sure to not run 5.56 in a .223. I can go into depth about all of it but I like to keep it simple. Make sense? Did I answer your question?

[@Therealmortard]

@@k2defense thanks for the responce,i have 2 5.56 ar's that i want to start loading for ( plinking rounds) and have been really scared to start. i figured if i kept it mid range it would be ok but i got told it can blow the gun up. also would it be safe to shoot the reloads out of both my rifles if its midrange loads? another big thing i always see is only reload for 1 gun. if you have 2 5.56 ar's you need diffrent loads for them or it can blow the gun. it always confused me because factory ammo can be used in any 5.56 gun. sorry for the odd questions i just want to be sure im going about this as safe as i can. thanks for your time and the good info. love the videos man

[@k2defense]

@Therealmortard - great questions! No worries! The reason I started this channel is to help others. Use your reloading manual. It should have about five different load options. Start with the lowest and work up to the max. Reloading manuals keep the reloading data low to keep it safe. Hornady is a classic example. They have their charge loads low. If you can afford it, buy a chronograph. I have one and it a great investment. I start off with sorting your brass. Miss brass is not the best for working up loads. Use the lowest charge, reload five. Somehow mark them so you know what you reloaded them with. Do that for each load they have for that specific projectile. Now go out and shoot them. Once you identify the ones with the least standard deviation, bingo! It takes time to figure things out so don’t get frustrated. It took me a while to get the right recipe for my 5.56. I keep a journal for each round I work up. Then I refer back to it when I reload. Hope this response lowers your anxiety with reloading. Make sure to watch my other videos to help increase your knowledge base. If you need more help, just drop another comment. Here to help! 👍🏻

[@Therealmortard]

@@k2defense best info i have got yet.thank you so much. love the videos man and keep up the work. its helped me so much in starting this

[@k2defense]

@Therealmortard - thank you for the compliment! Keep making videos is the plan! Thanks for the comments! 👍🏻

[@bryandouglas507]

Any issues with the bullet going in sideways. I am using RCBS and do not have a consistent seating. I have yet to figure it out.

[@k2defense]

@bryandouglas507 - please review this video. It’s the same set up for 5.56/.223 as it is for .308. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oaW4l6d5oquSaM0si=UxrEAODkEctnhC7u You’ll need to feed the projectile into the mouth of the die in order for the projectile to not slip sideways. Let us know if you need further assistance. Also, keep us posted. I’d like to see if your issue clears up for you. 👍🏻

[@filipstrapinadotcz]

I heard a rummor that you should heat threat the empty shell. Is that true or some bullsh*t? So fat this looks like fun and "easy" job for Sunday morning.

[@k2defense]

Each time you resize brass it becomes harder. It also has more spring back. Annealing the brass allows for softer brass to reload and lengthens the life of the case. So, yes, annealing brass is something reloaders should consider. Hope this helps! 👍🏻

[@Wccops61]

i notice you do not mention letting the lube dry. Is this not a necessary step before resizing? Ive not reloaded rifle ammo yet so wanting to get it right.

[@k2defense]

@Wccops61 - you should lube your bottle neck cases. I prefer to lube the lower third of the case. I do not lube the shoulders because of dimpling of the shoulders. Rather, I use spray lube for the case mouth to help with the squeaking and not marring up the die. Use as little as possible! You will have a higher chance of stuck cases if you don’t lube the lower third of the case. Does this help and make sense? I want to make sure you’re good to go. Let me know if you run into any issues. Been there done that with bottle neck cases. 👍🏻

[@Wccops61]

@@k2defense Yes agree, my concern was lubing with a pad I was told i needed to lube all the cases and then let them dry before depriming /sizing them

[@k2defense]

@Wccops61 - if you wait to deprime them until after the lube dries, you’ll for sure have stuck cases. Does this help answer your concern?

[@Wccops61]

@ yessir that answers that. Appreciate the response !

[@k2defense]

@Wccops61 - 👍🏻

[@Peytonwitt]

So if I have some 223 brass laying around, can I use it to reload 5.56?

[@k2defense]

Hello @Peytonwitt! Yessir! You’ll be just fine as long as you use it in a 5.56 chambered rifle!

[@Peytonwitt]

@@k2defense thank you!

[@seanwalton6208]

I'm trying to reload, but when attempting to crimp, I crush the shoulder. I'm using bullets that don't have a crimp mark.

[@k2defense]

@seanwalton6208 - check out this video. Go to 2:35 and I explain how to set up the bullet seater and crimp die. Different caliber, same set up as the .223/5.56. Let me know if this works for you. 👍🏻 kzbin.info/www/bejne/oaW4l6d5oquSaM0si=myCQykYAhln4A2N9

[@richardharris1349]

Ive been loadeing 223 2 years rcbs die i bought new its pushing bullet up in the die and not in brass bullet get stuck in the die can ya help me out never had no problems with till tonight

[@richardharris1349]

223 55grn lead tip

[@k2defense]

@richardharris1349 - yes, it sounds like you’re crimping before seating the bullet. Watch this video and follow the steps for the bullet seating and crimp portion. It’s for the .308 but it’s the same setup for the .223/5.56. After you do that, try it again and let me know if that corrected the issue. 👍🏻 kzbin.info/www/bejne/oaW4l6d5oquSaM0si=aFDAGFSyey5i3BkA

[@richardharris1349]

@@k2defense thanks

[@k2defense]

@richardharris1349 - 👍🏻

[@chriscosby2459]

Good information and tips. Do you lube the neck of the case? I usually lube the neck of the case on rifle cartridges. Thanks for the video.

[@k2defense]

Hi Chris! I lube the lower third of the case only. I spray the case mouth with slick spay to make the decapping pin flow smoothly into the case mouth. I’ve noticed that when I lube the shoulders, it will cause the shoulders to dimple. The dimples can cause feeding issues from the mag to the chamber. Great question! Happy to help!

[@chriscosby2459]

@@k2defense Interesting, I have tried lubing the neck and not lubing the neck. Can't say I have noticed any benefit with lubing the neck. I am experimenting with .223 reloading methods. I just recently started reloading .223 again. Thanks for the help.

[@sbcclydesdale3275]

Great instructions on the video! 1 question, I have a Rockchucker press I bought about 1985. Where did you get the fingers to push the brass out of the shell holders!?? Thanks.

[@k2defense]

Hello @sbcclydesdale3275! Hope this helps! inlinefabrication.com/collections/case-ejector-system/products/case-ejector-system-for-rcbs-rockchucker-single-stage

[@Yahweh-Chase-Bella]

I was really looking at getting into reloading and boy this video was a little more complicated than I expected lol

[@k2defense]

Hello @chase6215! Welcome to the world or reloading! 😂👍🏻

[@Yahweh-Chase-Bella]

@@k2defense right lol I'm just looking for an entry lvl kit, preferably one of those reciprocating style ones. You have any knowledge in handguns?

[@k2defense]

@@Yahweh-Chase-Bella Yessir, what questions do you have?

[@Yahweh-Chase-Bella]

@@k2defense mostly looking at what items I need to get to do it. I want to get one of those reciprocating machines seems to really speed it up. What else would be needed if I buy one of them

[@k2defense]

@@Yahweh-Chase-Bella did you watch this video? If you are ready to spend the money, I’d suggest going to Dillons website and ordering a progressive press that has everything included for that specific caliber if that’s the direction you want to go. kzbin.info/www/bejne/m6a9nZKjhbR4obM

[@bobbyb7127]

When reloading .223/5.56 you don't flare out the cases mouth to a little to insert the bullet? You hold the bullet and case as long as you can until the bullet goes into the seating die, then the die aligns or guides the bullet into the case? Is this correct?

[@k2defense]

@bobbyb7127 - this is correct! I take it nice and slow once I get to the top where the projectile goes into the die mouth. I’ve pinched the hell out of my sausage fingers before and the only thing that hurts worse is a beard hair caught in my coat zipper. 😂Hope this helps! Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻

[@3dtexan890]

I thought the gauge was to show how far to push back the shoulder? Also why the SB die? There is so many different views using a FL vs SB die. Why must I purchase another die for my AR's when I already have the LEE ultimate die kit for 223? Just askin'.

[@k2defense]

Hello 3D Texan, According to L.E. Wilson Inc. (2022), the Wilson case gage is a one piece gage that will check overall length to indicate the need for trimming, datum to head length to assure correct headspace and to prevent over sizing. The gage allows you to see just how much you are sizing back your shoulder on your cases. So you are absolutely correct. By using this gage, you will be able to “see” how your resized case (cartridge) will fit into your chamber. As far as your second question, according to RCBS (2022) the Small Base Die set is used for ammunition to be used in semi-auto, auto, and lever action rifles so that the loaded round chambers and extracts easily. The Small Base Sizer Die sizes the case from the shoulder to the head of the case a couple of thousandths smaller than a Full Length Sizer Die. In certain calibers it also sets the shoulder of the case back a thousandth or two more than the Full Length Sizer Die. The Full Length Die Set or Neck Die Set is not normally recommended for ammo to be used in auto, semi-auto, or lever action rifles. The Full Length Die set is recommended for ammunition used in bolt action rifles, particularly for ammunition to be used for hunting. Now, with all of that being said, in my opinion you don’t necessarily need a Wilson gage as you can simply drop the resized case into your chamber to see if it fits. This is called the “plunk” test. Additionally, I know many people that don’t use small based dies for their semi autos and the ammo functions perfectly. All of my opinions in the video are from my experiences, what has or hasn’t worked for me, and proven reliability of my reloads. The best part of reloading, for me, is learning from others and sharing what I’ve learned. Happy to answer any additional questions! If you find this information is helpful, please like, share, and subscribe. References: lewilson.com/case-gage www.rcbs.com/rcbs-support/rcbs-faq.html

[@DLN-ix6vf]

Fl only as Eric Cortina would say !

[@rbooth09241]

A small base die is a full length die. It just makes them a little smaller around. For more reliable feeding in ar platforms.

[@DLN-ix6vf]

Question: the cases for 223 and 5.56 are the same and the only variance would be the powder load which is approx. 2gr. more in a 5.56. To compensate for this additional powder load/ overall pressure a 5.56 rifle has a longer throat and leade for the additional pressure and speed of bullet. My question is what if we trim the 223 cases to say 1.745 to allow the additional room for neck expansion and set the bullet say 20k deeper in the case neck then place an additional 2gr. of powder in the case. One would think this would allow a 223 rifle to shoot a 5.56 powder load.

[@k2defense]

Just to clarify, your question is if you trim 5.56 cases to 1.745”, seat the projectile .2” deeper, and add more powder than recommended to shoot out of a .223? I want to make sure I’m following before answering.

[@DLN-ix6vf]

yes this would allow the throat to have more room like in a 5.56 for neck length expansion and seating deeper would allow the bullet more time to reach the lands by way of the leade. just an idea to compensate for the only difference in a 223 vs. a 5.56 barrel to help with the added pressure do to increased powder load.

[@tombo552001]

Thanks for the great information, do you have re set the dies each time you use them again or with the lock ring set no reason to go through the set up again?

[@k2defense]

Tombo552001 - the resizing and expander die you can set and forget as long as you have a locking ring. The bullet seater/crimp die you might have to adjust with different types of projectiles. Hope that helps! 👍🏻

[@tombo552001]

@@k2defense Thank you very much for the reply

[@k2defense]

@@tombo552001 anytime! 👍🏻

[@Gunner_0306]

So the crimp/seater die seats and crimps as you push the ram up?

[@k2defense]

Hello @danielvigil8327! I explain how the bullet seating and crimping die works in this video. Hope this helps! kzbin.info/www/bejne/mpqvmHucpN-amKM

[@mrshort2379]

I would be more into reloading if everything wasn't so high right now. poor's don't have the kind of money it takes to buy some of the equipment needed. I have a Hornady classic loader for 5.56/223 and a few hand tools, but I am slowly getting there. maybe one day in the near future i will actually get to start reloading. seems like everything now is priced at $100 for this and $100 for that, which on a fixed income, freeing up $100 is hard to come by after bills. thets why I can never be a prepper

[@k2defense]

Mr Short - thanks for the comment. I hear ya. It can get spendy with upfront costs. Keep working on your channel and maybe you’ll earn a nice revenue stream from that for all of your reloading equipment! 👍🏻

[@cory8791]

I thought you was supposed to clean the flash hole from the inside?

[@k2defense]

Hi Corey8791! You are correct and the first person to catch this! I should’ve mentioned it in the video. This flash hole uniformer doesn’t fit inside of the case mouth so I do it upside down. It still works great for opening up the flash hole. Great catch and I hope that explains it for you!

[@ArkansasBassMan]

The flash hole deburrer is supposed to remove the brass leftover when the manufacturer punched the flash hole opening from the outside. Not a necessary step unless you're reloading precision.

[@kathyreich6841]

You are, I have a handheld one.

[@k2defense]

@@ArkansasBassMan correct, I like to ream the flash hole because of the carbon build up in the flash hole. Also, after tumbling with media as it gets stuck in the flash hole. Thanks for the comment! -K2D

[@k2defense]

@@kathyreich6841 this is actually a handheld one. I unscrewed it from the handle and attached it to the case prep machine. I don’t like hand cramps. Thanks for the comment! -K2D

[@jaquaneabernathy556]

What book is that

[@k2defense]

Hornady Handbook of Cartridge Reloading 11th Ed. amzn.to/3yLmQpx

[@ChristiannTyler]

Which hornady manual is that? Is there data for some of the heavier bullets? Trying to load 75-77 grain exclusively. I’ve only reloaded for shotguns so this is intimidating. My dad’s giving me a DP super 1050 ? I’m told it’s a pretty good loader do you know anything about it by chance?

[@k2defense]

@Ctylerr93 - here is the information on the reloading manual. They do refer to heavier grain projectiles. Here’s the link: amzn.to/3HB3xQt Sorry for the delay in my response! 👍🏻 K2

[@danielmorrison7579]

Since this is a beginner's video, it would have been nice for you to have told us why we should be using small base dies when reloading for "any AR platform."

[@k2defense]

Hi Daniel Morrison! Great question! SB dies are used to bump the shoulder back just a little further then FL sizing dies. You’ll hear varying opinions on if this is really needed or not. I find that I have better results in my AR platforms when I use SB dies rather than FL dies. I can almost guarantee that someone will disagree with my statement. However, this is just my opinion and what I choose to use. I encourage everyone to experiment and figure out what works best for their needs. Hope this helps! 👍🏻

[@joeldesjardins5125]

@@k2defense Im sorry but I absolutely know nothing about this but what are dies?

[@k2defense]

Hello! They are used to reload ammo! Please check out my other videos to see how they work! Hope this helps!

[@danielmorrison7579]

@@k2defense You stated that the small baes dies are better for any AR platform, but you did not say WHY they are better.

[@k2defense]

@@danielmorrison7579 - I won’t say the are better. However, for me, they seem to work really well in my AR platform. SB dies size the case from the shoulder to the head of the case a couple of thousands smaller than FL sizing dies. You will hear some reloaders say that there is no need for that and you over work your brass causing the life of the case to shorten. I get 10-12 reloads per case before the necks split. Probably because I don’t anneal my plinking rounds. I’ve never encountered case head separation using SB dies. In summary, you’ll have folks that only neck size or FL or SB or any combination of all three. For me, using SB dies reduces ramp feed and chambering issues in my AR platforms. Find what works for you and run it. In my opinion, there is no right or wrong way. It’s whatever you find that works for you. 👍🏻

[@Manfred-cf9rn]

I haven't reloaded.223s/5.56 yet though I Have more than a 1000 Cases.. Range pick-ups. The HK -93 Rifle makes a mess of the fired cases..am not sure if it is worth RELOADING. Thank you for your video! Much obliged 🙏

[@k2defense]

@Manfred-cf9rn - I’m glad you found this video helpful! If you need any help, just let me know. This cartridge can be a bit tricky to reload especially stuck cases. Good luck and thank you for the comment! 👍🏻

[@BODYMAN454]

I am new to reloading the 223-556, dillon 650 , redding pro series die set , case's are getting stuck in the full size die, brass is my once fired brass and is a good round, lyman spray lube also some range pick up., any ideas ? @@k2defense

[@eduardoalcantarajr3668]

may i know what model of rcbs press you're using, thanks

[@k2defense]

Hello Eduardo Alcantara Jr! Rock Chucker Supreme! www.rcbs.com/presses/single-stage/rock-chucker-supreme-press/16-9356.html

[@russellkeeling4387]

When setting the die in the press read and follow the instructions that come with the die set. They're not all the same.

[@k2defense]

You are correct! 👍🏻

[@franciscoortiz9730]

I haven't been using a small base die, is that why im having problems with chamber and ejection?

[@k2defense]

Hello! Usually when you have these issues combined, the lower third of the case hasn’t been resized appropriately. Are you camming over?

[@franciscoortiz9730]

@k2defense yes, I am.

[@franciscoortiz9730]

@k2defense my 223 won't chamber, and in my 6.5 semi and 6mm arc after shooting the brass gets stuck

[@k2defense]

@franciscoortiz9730 - is this happening with reloads, new ammo, or both? Is your ejection catch working? Just so we’re on n the same page, you’re having issues with ammo feeding into the chamber and the bolt closing, correct?

[@franciscoortiz9730]

@@k2defense with once fired brass from another rifle

[@MidwestHunters1969]

Lots of good information, thanks for the share. Excellent information for beginners. However, I load 1k at a time (high volume training- AR household), your method would take me weeks vs hours. Surely you're reloading a box of 50 or so at a time for a bolt gun, right?

[@k2defense]

Hello D. K. I have an assembly line. A bucket to be cleaned, one for ready to be resized, one for case prep, and one for ready to be reloaded. I couldn’t possibly sit down for 30 min to do this. I take a day or a weekend to do my reloading. Since I’m pressed for time, and only use a single stage press I need to be as efficient as possible. I reload volumes at each sitting. I’ve been doing this for years and go through a lot of ammo per year so I’m always turning them over. The delivery guys hate me. Almost forgot to mention, this is for AR. We too are an AR household. 👍🏻 Thanks for the question and comment!

[@garthgraham1720]

Where did you get the flash hole uniformer? Part number that comes up has a handle on it

[@k2defense]

Yes, you unscrew it from the handle and screw it into your workstation. 👍🏻

[@mirari_engaged]

I wonder how much all the stuff you need to start up would cost and what brand is best and so on. I am a Army Veteran who is looking into reloading ammo

[@russellkeeling4387]

You don't have to have all this stuff. The way to start is buy a good loading manual and read it. It will explain every step you need to follow in order to load good accurate ammunition. Pay attention to the book. I have many different manuals because loads for the same cartridge will vary somewhat from book to book but the loading procedure is the same in all of them. Once you have begun you will find alternatives to some of the expensive tools like his case prep machine. I've never used something like that and I've loaded .223 for many years. As a matter of fact the first case trimmer I used was a block of wood with sandpaper stapled to it and it worked well.

[@mirari_engaged]

@@russellkeeling4387 that’s what I have done I ordered the 51st edition and it comes in Wednesday

[@krisgreenwood5173]

If you buy it all at once that is a major investment. I suggest you start with the basics and add as you go. The more time you spend processing your brass will result in better accuracy and dependability. But, it's expensive. It's a crawl, walk, run thing. What ever you do, don't run out and buy an expensive progressive reloader thinking you are going to start cranking out ammo. It's a learning process. I have a single stage press and a 4 hole turret press I bought many years after I bought my original single stage press. I have a closet full of ammo with just those 2 presses. I'm not seeing the needs for a progressive reloader at this point in my life.

[@rickwilson5993]

Thank you for your service. When I started reloading I did not have much money. I bought the lee single stage25th anniversary edition press kit thinking I could upgrade later. Never upgraded. I will catch some flack about this but lee makes a great product. Less expensive than a lot of other presses. Get reload manuals and read them. Take your time.

[@krisgreenwood5173]

My favorite is RCBS and Redding

[@DLN-ix6vf]

2.160 ; the manual says 2.200 for 55gr. FMj-BT-W/C ? at 2.160 that would put the jump @ at least 70k to 80k of an inch.

[@k2defense]

Hello DLN1234, Please refer back to your reloading manual for your reloading information. K2D does not recommend specific load data for liability reasons. All specific reloading information on this channel is for illustrational purposes only.

[@DLN-ix6vf]

@@k2defense guess it depends on what rifle you are shooting. A semi-auto AR15 style would require a shorter O.A.L. due to rapid shooting. That bolt is flying back and forth fast so you don't want any jamming of rounds hence the W/C for additional security to hold bullet in case.

[@TheAnnoDomini]

Did you edit out the part where you seated the bullet too deep into the case mouth? hehehe... I noticed that!

[@k2defense]

Hello Anno Domini! I reloaded a single round for this vid! Thanks for the comment!

[@Jaygorski]

Never had the need to go with a small base die, my Redding FL dies do a fine job w/o going to a SBD.

[@timothyberlinski2299]

Does barrel length affect reloading? I have an 8.5" AR and used Hornady black and shot nice, I used my reloads and loaded on the lower end per Hornady book and Hugh flash out the rifle. Wouldn't tell if it was from chamber or barrel but the flash was huge. Should I reload below Hornady specs?

[@k2defense]

Hello Timothy Berlinski, When you read your reloading manual, it will tell you what barrel length the load is worked up for. Twist rate plays an important part with bullet weight. Typically, the higher twist rate is needed for heavier projectiles to stabilize the projectile. The shorter the barrel, the higher twist rate. Hope that answers your question.

[@timothyberlinski2299]

@@k2defense I am more concerned with the load, I got the higher twist the more weight. I forgot what weight I was using

[@k2defense]

@@timothyberlinski2299 I’m a little confused. Do you know what projectile you used (weight) and powder charge?

[@k2defense]

This are my plinking rounds. 55 gr fmjs. I don’t go max on these even though Hornady is conservative. I go mid range on my plinkers. Hope this helps!

[@bored6839]

Hey just getting started do you crimp your 223? or you just crimp it to have no difference with 556 rds?

[@k2defense]

@bored6839 - if there are no reloading specifications to crimp your .223/5.56, I do. Just a like crimp. This will reduce ramp feed issues and projectile movement. Hope this helps! 👍🏻

[@blackbirdpie217]

It's hard to get data on loading with copper bullets.

[@k2defense]

@blackbirdpie217 - which projectiles are you using? Manufacturer, weight, etc?

[@Zekenificent]

Thank you

[@chrischiampo7647]

Thanks For This Video 😀😊😀👍🏼

[@TheBaconVanMan]

My biggest takeaway is that I will never do this lol. Too much work to be worth it outside of just being a hobby. Think I’d save time working an extra shift and buying some PMC with the extra money vs making my own. Great video anyways! If I ever did decide to give this a go, I’d know where to start!

[@k2defense]

Thanks for the comment and positive feedback!

[@krisgreenwood5173]

I find reloading great therapy. We all have a choice, a long winter of watching TV or reloading. I will do the reloading every time. This allows me to spend the warm months at the range reaping the rewards of a winter of reloading. I can't say that I'm saving any money but I am making some really great ammo. No over time required.

[@tombo552001]

Wait till you can't buy the ammo and you will want to reload.

[@hunterjames3167]

Unfortunately we have a extremely short winter of just barely 2 months!

[@fairplayer916]

So what happens if you don't trim them and they are too long? They won't seat in the chamber?

[@k2defense]

@fairplayer916 - if they are too long and you chamber them, there is a possibility that when they go into the chamber the case mouth with compress around the projectile. When you squeeze the trigger, it will cause over pressures and you could have blow back into the upper receiver. I’ve only seen this happen one time are the range. He was not injured but it blew the bolt back and destroyed the upper receiver. The gun smith torn it apart and found that the projectile and case mouth were still in the chamber and the rest of the casing was blown out of the side and bottom of the case. Wish I had taken a picture but we were all shook pretty good and just happy no one was hurt. Hope this helps! 👍🏻

[@charlesludwig9173]

All you need to know: 25 grains of H335 under a flat base 53 grain Match Bullet. Absolutely no need for small base resizing die. It thwarts accuracy and decreases case life. One more thing, begin shooting factory match ammunition to have a basis of understanding for what might be possible from handloads, since initially it is not at all likely that a novice handloader will get or recognize an acceptable loading. One more thing it’s not about “working up” a load. It’s always about developing a load with low SD and ES from a high BC bullet. In other words, accuracy over velocity.

[@k2defense]

Thank you for your feedback!

[@nickkonstandinou1070]

What press do you use?

[@k2defense]

Rockchucker supreme. 👍🏻

[@richvest7212]

Lee dies are best with collet crimping die

[@dhooter]

I don't get the cam over part. You screw the die in till it touches the shell holder. Then you lower the ram screw IN a quarter turn. Well you were already touching before you screwed in another quarter turn correct? Then what is the difference? Not being a smartass I'm new to reloading and that part just boggles me

[@k2defense]

@dhooter - no worries! The cam over is to make sure you push as much of the shell into the resizing die for full conformity of the shell. If you don’t do this in the semi autos, you could potentially find that your bolt won’t fully close. You only cam over with steel dies not carbide dies. You want to push the shoulders and base of the case in just a tad bit further for proper cycling. I apologize for not explaining this more in depth. Here’s what I do. I use a case gage or just the chamber of my firearm. I run the ram all the way to the top of the stroke. Dial in the resizing die until it touches the case holder. Back the ram up a bit and dial down the resizing die a bit more. You should feel resistance to hem running the ram up to the top touching the die. You’ll need to push down harder and you’ll feel a “pop”. Load an empty shell into the shell holder, resize, then check with the case gage or put the resized shell into the chamber, close the bolt, if the bolt slams in and fully closes, and ejects the shell after opening the bolt. You’re good to go. If you’ve done all of that and the bolt doesn’t close or it’s hard to eject the case, you’ll need to dial the resizing die down a bit more. Once you find that sweet spot, lock the locking ring and away you go. Small based, steel dies, are meant for the AR or semi auto rifles. Hopefully this helps. Let me know if it doesn’t and I’ll help trouble shoot. 👍🏻 Cheers!

[@dhooter]

@@k2defense It did and thanks for the clarification. Just started reloading around December so it's been a chore with finding supplies lol. But good info is not. Appreciate it

[@k2defense]

👍🏻

[@dougmccune9307]

Excellent video.

[@johne1653]

Do not create loads without doing a proper sequential powder charge work up. Why create a load that may not be safe, reliable, let alone accurate in your gun?

[@k2defense]

Hello John E! Thank you for your comment! Yes, please always refer back to your reloading manual for specific load data and techniques. Happy reloading!

[@nere.w536]

.nice👍

[@jeffmerz3595]

2.26 is spec for overall length on 556 not 2.16

[@k2defense]

Jeff Metz - actually for the 55 FMJ the C.O.A.L is 2.20”. I didn’t explain it in the video but I run mine a little less than that 2.16”. Just what I find that works best for me and my mags. For beginners I suggest that they run what the reloading manual suggests. Thanks for the comment! 👍🏻

[@jamesendsley2611]

Article 22 like everybody else should because that's what it is you should know that better than anybody you reloading it unless you don't know the caliber of their own bullet you're messing with

[@NatvBearHntr]

Can I ask why now? For some reason your videos keep popping up on my recommended videos and it makes me think with the 100’s and 100’s of how to reload 308 and 223 why start new videos now?

[@k2defense]

Hello Rene, Why not now? Everyone has their own spin on how to reload. Over the years, I’ve watched many videos. I’ve taken something from each video I’ve watched. I’ve never taken everything from one specific video. I’m always looking for new ideas. I also know what bugged me while watching other videos and try not to do the same when I produce my videos. Each video takes time to shoot and hours to edit. I don’t get paid to do this. I just love doing it and hope to share my passion with others. If nothing else, my children and grand children will be able to jump on KZbin to “learn” from grandpa. I just went to your channel and watched your cargo rack install for your mountain bike. This is great information for folks to have. Ideally you’d show how you did it and the struggles you encountered while doing it. If I owned a mountain bike, I’d more likely than not buy that rack just based on the information you put out there. Great job by the way! You turned off your comments otherwise I’d have dropped you one. Thanks for the question/comment!

[@jarodstrain8905]

The more I look into loading the more I wonder if it's worth the effort. With small caliber like pistol loads it seems like you'll spend just as much money reloading as you would buying premium ammo. With 556 the materials would be half the price of buying new rounds but it seems like you'll spend an awful lot of time making those rounds. Is reloading wor the effort in terms of savings or is it just another aspect of a hobby? My general rule of thumb is if doing something myself saves me less than $50 an hour, it wasn't really worth my time.

[@k2defense]

This is subjective. There are so many variables. I took it up right after Sandy Hook. Glad I did. Ever since then there has been shortages and outrageous price increases on both ammo and supplies. I maintain a stock of both. My big question is, are you a plinker or heavy use person. During the summer months I usually go through 1000 rounds a month. Winter it drops significantly. I rotate my stock and do most of my reloading in the winter since it’s so cold here. I can probably talk you into either or depending on so many variables. There is no hard and fast rule unless you’re sending tons down range or competition. Then again, if you like to work with your hands and enjoying going down the rabbit hole of making the perfect round, it might interest you as well. If you are a plinker and don’t spend much time behind the reticle, maybe store bought is your answer. You can spend as little or as much as you want. For me, just knowing I’ll have plenty to keep me going if everything disappeared, keeps me happy. Hope this helps! 👍🏻

[@Beadle78]

I got a Harris commercial. I guess they don't know their audience.

[@k2defense]

😂👍🏻

[@vmark78]

She probably asked you for money.

[@Tony_Seed]

What’s with all the people on the internet being like “I’m not going to tell you anything about what I do or load data”. So stupid do you think someone is going to take some info from the internet and sue you for it how would they even do that

[@k2defense]

@Tony_Seed - unfortunately it’s been done. I personally, am not going to take any chances. 👍🏻

[@bobbyb7127]

Why do you wear rubber gloves? I hate wearing them for long periods. The bullets are also coated so I wouldn't think lead is an issue. But I'm 70 so t h e long term effects are not a real issue anymore for me. Lol

[@k2defense]

So I enjoy a chew whilst reloading. I hate having to leave and wash my hands when putting a new one in. So now you know! 😂👍🏻

[@bobbyb7127]

LOL, that makes sense. Thanks for the video. @@k2defense

[@k2defense]

@@bobbyb7127 👍🏻

[@peterp1143]

For beginners???

[@k2defense]

@peterp1143 - you gotta start somewhere! 👍🏻

[@hunterjames3167]

Good lord all that for 1 round!! Who has that much time, I’ll stick to shotgun shells!! Great video tho!

[@k2defense]

Hunter James - it’s therapy for the soul! 😂👍🏻

[@normanmcneal3605]

Most military brass is quite longer than .223. My 5.56 once fired is 1.760 to 1.775. My .223 is usually no longer than1.775. Be wary. Lots of influencers get subscribers. Be wary. 5.56 and .223 are different. All are useable, with trim length noted. If corn cob is in primer hole? The deprimer will clean it out. Any extra brass removed will weaken the base.

[@k2defense]

Norman McNeal - both .223 and 5.56 have the same max case length at 1.76 and case trim length at 1.75. Could you perhaps reference where you got your information? I just want to make sure we’re all on the same page. 👍🏻

[@normanmcneal3605]

@@k2defense I hear ya. I’m just telling you what variations of scavenged brass I have used, and what the lengths were. Promise! All kinds of “ spec” chambers that these cases were fired from.

[@k2defense]

I misunderstood what you had originally said. I’m trackin’ now. 👍🏻

[@SkunkWorks2001]

This seems like a lot of work for one round 😱

[@k2defense]

But totally worth it! 👍🏻

[@archangel20031]

What I see is a whole lot of very expensive equipment I have no intention of buying.

[@k2defense]

archangel20031 - it is a very specific hobby that does require some money to get started. 👍🏻

[@daviebaggins]

​Im a poor guy who just patiently pu​t my reloading gear together one piece at a time. Then frustrated myself learning from fudd videos until i ironed out my errors. its nice to have someone in real life to learn from. Reloading has been my hardest hobby to learn.

[@bobbyb7127]

Idk, those machines look expensive!

[@k2defense]

Well worth the investment in my humble opinion. 👍🏻

[@johne1653]

Oh great lead dust being spread all over the house. There is NO NEED to be using a small base resizing die. It over works the brass. RCBS lube sucks! Get Redding Imperial Die Wax. And, a used bore brush with some lube on the brush and then lube the inside of the case neck. You stretch the case neck running the case neck over the expander ball. Mise as well make it slide over! Wipe the case lube off the case before putting it a case gage. Why gum the case gage.

[@k2defense]

Hello John E! Thanks for the comments!

[@russellkeeling4387]

First you don't really need to tumble any brass. If it's dirty just wash it. The case does not only expand at the last one third it expands throughout its length. The whole case should be lubed including the neck inside and out. Once you have a case stuck in your die you will learn to lube.

[@k2defense]

Over lubing will dimple the case shoulder. The point that “gets stuck” in the die is the lower third of the case. If you lube the lower third of the case, no more stuck cases! 👍🏻

[@russellkeeling4387]

@@k2defense The neck of the case needs to be lubed inside and out. If you are neck sizing only there is no need for lube on the bottom third of the case.

[@k2defense]

Russel Keeling - correct! The SB dies indicate the use for lube on the lower third since I’m not neck sizing. Thanks for the feedback!

[@charlesludwig9173]

Reloading for economy does not make much sense. Reloading for accuracy however is essential for shooters competing at the highest shooter classifications.

[@jasonlopez6578]

You are exactly right

[@randomnation9080]

That’s a lot of work for one bullet

[@k2defense]

@randomnation9080 - Well worth all the effort IMHO! 👍

[@johnbui5349]

That’s too much work

[@k2defense]

Once you get comfortable doing it, it becomes therapeutic. 👍🏻

[@Jaygorski]

Crimping is a waste of time.

[@k2defense]

That’s the thing about reloading, there’s always varying opinions on everything. 👍🏻

[@enriquecastellanos7110]

Are You Kidding Me . . . For Beginners . . . All that just for one round . . .

[@k2defense]

Hello @enriquecastellanos7110! Welcome to the world of reloading! 😂👍🏻

[@daviebaggins]

​@@k2defense you get to be your own personal ammunition factory. Is there any more awesome hobby than that?😂

[@k2defense]

@daviebaggins - a slow trickle for sure! 😂👍🏻

[@Topguner]

To much work, I'll just keep buying my ammo

[@k2defense]

@Topguner - respect ✌🏻

[@greatcars4-sale]

First time ever watching ANYTHING but jesus christ all that for 1 bullet. Holy crap no way

[@k2defense]

@greatcars4-sale - welcome to the world of reloading! 😂👍🏻

[@seller559]

You’re right…totally not worth it. But, save all your brass….for me.

[@k2defense]

@seller559 - 😂👍🏻

[@TopSpeedKertus]

Time is money friends. If you're getting into reloading ammunition for the purpose of saving money, you better 1) be shooting a lot, 2) invest in a more automated setup, 3) perform reloading on days off when you can't be bothered to work. At least get a progressive press; single stage is a complete waste of time. In reality, the best reason to reload ammo is to improve weapon performance. You'd save way more money by working extra hours and waiting for good deals to appear on AmmoSeek.

[@k2defense]

Floor the Gas - I consider this my therapy. Great stress release. 😂👍🏻

[@1stFlyingeagle]

Well, you're starting off on the wrong foot with dry tumbling. Well, hope it gets better.

[@k2defense]

Robert W Sieburg - no issues here! 👍🏻

[@1stFlyingeagle]

@@k2defense When I started out, I did not see the problem. When I watched hours tic by, that was my first clue. I can take a large batch of brass now, do a pre-tumble to get the first quick clean done in 20 minutes and throw it in a warm oven to dry. Lube the whole large batch size and de-prime, then throw them back in for complete cleaning, which thoroughly cleans primer pockets and makes the brass look great, drain and tumble pins out, then back into the oven ready for sizing under 5 hours. I remember vibrating for 6 hours to clean the brass and pilot holes all needed cleaning, adding one more step and time.

[@k2defense]

@@1stFlyingeagle sounds like a great system! Always good to hear others perspectives! 👍🏻