How to remove and test car actuator or solenoid (Honda CRV)

This video shows how to remove and test the tailgate or trunk door actuator or solenoid for Honda CRV. This works for Honda CRV 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 and other Honda, Acura cars. This should also work for all other types of cars from Toyota, Nissan etc.
In the process it also shows how to remove the actuator if you just want to replace it. Hope it helps.
Please check the following video to see how to remove the tailgate trim panel
• Honda CRV 2007 2008 20...

[@lemmuelpanganiban]

My door stuck open, actuator is working though, can see the actuator movement, but i dont understand why it is stuck close, any idea how to open?

[@highroller9341]

What do you call that part? Mine wont open anymore sometimes it does. Thanks for the upload

[@qav10]

I have the same car (crv 09). Is the white connector (to actuator) supposed to have appox 12v when press to unlock / lock on keyfob? My white connector (to actuator) barely has voltage when press to unlock / lock on keyfob . Actuator's arm moved fine when tested with 12v. Did you find out what was the problem?

[@user-dk9ch7qu7e]

Pop the plat turn the latch❤

[@studioxps72]

No need to remove you can test it still in the vehicle.

[@xetropulsar9082]

Hi Dean, Sure. You can test it in the vehicle but I was troubleshooting the bigger problem and in the process removed this solenoid and then thought about creating the video. But I guess mentioning that it does not need to be removed would have been useful.

[@ultracool2k]

Thanks for the video helped me a lot in troubleshooting trunk unlocking issue that appeared after i had an aftermarket amp/subw installed into my dads crv 2010. Should edit the video and clarify that the white plug that goes on the top of the actuator its not just going to show some minor voltage change but rather should probably be 11-12volts when the driver side read door is unlocked. That allows the button/switch to be able to activate the actuator on the trunk and open the trunk up. In my case i was getting around 1v~ but isnt enough to open. My guess is they damaged the wires while wiring subwoofer speaker cables on the rear driver side speaker and it is semi grounding and losing power. Will let you know once i resolve it this week whenever i take the car to the shop since i can confirm the issue is within the door where they worked.

[@DrWenChannel]

Thanks! This is very helpful!

[@richardwright3340]

I ve a 2010 Honda stream all 4 doors nt locking up wen I drive off the actuator is bad hw do I get a Honda stream actuator fr the doors

[@licenciadojosearevalo1323]

How you fix the problem?

[@xetropulsar9082]

Well the problem was with the rear driver side door actuator. Once I fixed that, this problem was resolved on its own.

[@stanorner2909]

I guess it was the outside manuel switch

[@sheilaneils8501]

Xetro - what ended up being the problem? I have a 2007 Honda CRV same issue. The actuator works when I apply 12 volts. I confirmed that the switch works by testing continuity. Did you resolve your issue?

[@xetropulsar9082]

Hi. The problem was with the rear driver side door actuator. It was stuck and hence I guess it messed up the trunk latch as well.

[@cn7187]

How did you come to that conclusion?

[@AlfJDale]

@@xetropulsar9082 how did you discover this?

[@hardypanchal]

Hello xetro pulsar! great find! now could you please explain how the LR door actuator affects the tailgate actuator circuit to deactivate it?

[@jamespaz322]

My rear passenger door actuator is dead. Now my rear hatch won’t open... smh they are connected