How to Remove Gaping Ease in the Front Armhole

[@paulaarchacki8200]

Hi Jen! I just discovered your channel and I’m amazed by the content! This video in particular may help me solve a very common problem I have with my projects. Before this video, I was researching how to do a FBA when, in fact, I didn’t need that at all. You perfectly described the gap I see over and over. I’ll be applying the adjustment with my future projects. The next recurring problem I need to address are the armholes that are generally much too large. I’ll keep searching your videos for more learning and information on how to fix that. Thank you! ❤

[@JSternDesigns]

I'm so happy you found me! I just finished a new fitting series for shirts "Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting"... Here's a link to this playlist: kzbin.info/aero/PLseQVksFDkNvT3RK9aBSX-izrOQAR4Jed After the shoulder, upper back, chest and neck are fitted properly, the next step is to look at the base of the armhole to see if it's too low or too high (to big or too small) I share step-by-step instructions to adjust the armhole :) Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me

[@Aubsydinklegirl]

I have been STRUGGLING to figure out why that gaping was there. I am going to try that right now! Thank you!

[@Aubsydinklegirl]

I fixed it!!! Thank you so much!!!!!

[@JSternDesigns]

So happy to hear this worked for you. Remember to walk the sleeve cap into the armhole to see if you need to shorten the front cap length to agree with the ease you rotated out of the armhole! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@brendahunter7298]

I learn something new every time I watch you.

[@JSternDesigns]

So happy to hear, thanks for fitting along with me!

[@kathyskagen6210]

This is so helpful! Thank you for sharing. I love your teaching style.

[@JSternDesigns]

My Pleasure, thank you for the kind words and for fitting along with me

[@JRo605]

Lovely blouse! Nice to see you in a colorful blouse😊

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you! 😊 and thanks for fitting along with me

[@1wholovestrees]

I have had this problem with many patterns. I always thought I had to do an FBA but then I’m a B cup and everything fit nicely. So I just stopped altogether because I wasn’t sure where to place the extra fullness. Now I can see how to make the bust dart at the side seam. I remember doing this in your class and it’s a refresher. Thank you! By the way, I love the new top! I remember the video.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks so much... I'm surprised how much I love this top too (it's a little busy for my Plain Jane tendencies!) Happy to hear this helps you, thanks for watching

[@amauryy4417]

So valuable information, thank you so much for sharing!

[@JSternDesigns]

So happy this helps you!! Thank you for fitting along with me

[@judithsullivan6723]

Thanks for the video - this is a common problem for me. I am wondering if you have make a corresponding adjustment in the front sleeve ie. reduce front sleeve length so the sleeve then fits into the adjusted armhole?

[@JSternDesigns]

Yes, you will have to make a like adjustment to the sleeve because you are shortening the length of the front armhole. (sorry I didn't mention that in the tutorial!) Thanks for watching

[@ThatisSewSilvia]

You do a wonderful work!

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you for the kind words... and for watching :)

[@ritafairclough6470]

Yes, these are interesting video lots of pointed information

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad you enjoyed it...Thanks for fitting along with me

[@avdm196]

I very much like your approach, based on practice. In a way, fitting is carrying out detective work, proceeding by elimination, like Sherlock Holmes. If the armscye is reduced by eliminating the excess of ease and if the length of the sleeve cap must remain unchanged maybe lowering the armscye would provide for the extra length.

[@JSternDesigns]

OMG, I totally forgot to mention the sleeve cap adjustment!! Thank you for bringing this up. ... Pinching out the gap, picks up the base of the armhole, changing the shape of it and shortening it the amount of the pinch. Fitting the sleeve into the armhole involves making sure the cap fits into the armhole & the armhole/sleeve fits your shape. Where I pinched out the gap is lowering the front side of the cap... If I needed to put it back (vs. taking it out of the cap to make a like change)... I think I would slash the cap above the front/back notches and create a pivot at the back side and spread the front side the amount I needed to maintain the measurement. In the Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting Process... We fit the entire bodice first... then adjust the sleeve to fit the armhole. If the armhole is well shaped and fitted properly, it makes easier work of adjusting the sleeve to fit as well! Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me

[@victoriahannah1633]

This is appreciated.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks so much... and thanks for watching

[@leahgreenwalt1219]

Your shirt looks great!

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks so much!! and thanks for following along!

[@shirenenourbash1771]

Now that the armscye is shorter, how to you adjust the sleeve pattern to fit? I commonly have to remove 4 centimeters or more from a gaping front armscye from patterns and I don’t know how to adjust the sleeve. Thanks for any advice.

[@JSternDesigns]

That's a great question... sorry I didn't include that in this tutorial.. I will share that during an upcoming Fit Tip Tuesday... The short answer is that you'll have to make a like adjustment to the front armhole. Stay tuned, and thanks for fitting along with me

[@chippy1948]

Thank you so much for sharing this

[@JSternDesigns]

You are so welcome, thanks for fitting along with me

[@lidabard2121]

Good information to learn. What about the armhole opening fitting the sleeve after you pinched out the gap and added the bust dart below the arm scythe? Didn't you make the armhole opening smaller? Thank you!

[@divergentone7491]

I was wondering the same thing.

[@JSternDesigns]

OMG, I totally forgot to mention the sleeve cap adjustment!! Thank you for bringing this up. ... Pinching out the gap, picks up the base of the armhole, changing the shape of it and shortening it the amount of the pinch. Fitting the sleeve into the armhole involves making sure the cap fits into the armhole & the armhole/sleeve fits your shape. Where I pinched out the gap is lowering the front side of the cap... to put it back slash the cap above the front/back notches and create a pivot at the back side and spread the front side the amount I needed to maintain the measurement. To adjust the cap to agree with the shorter front cap, slash and overlap the front of the cap. In the Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting Process... We fit the entire bodice first... then adjust the sleeve to fit the armhole. If the armhole is well shaped and fitted properly, it makes easier work of adjusting the sleeve to fit as well! Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me

[@jasminerber780]

Is there a way to remove the extra fabric at the armhole, bit still keep the length/shape of the armhole as it is? Because with this technique i feel like the armhole is to tight in the end :/

[@Chris-gh3hg]

Do you need to adjust the sleeve if you rotate the excess to a bust dart?

[@JSternDesigns]

Yes, you're shortening the length of the front armhole, so walk the sleeve to see if you need to add ease back in. Sorry about that!... and thanks for watching)

[@judithsullivan6723]

Another thought - is there any reason why you can’t fold out the ease in the front armhole in the paper pattern and call it done?

[@JSternDesigns]

:) I wish you could do that... If you fold the ease out of the armhole like closing the dart, the paper patter will not lay flat. You can try extending the dart all the way to CF to close it (so you can pivot at the cf edge)... But you'll have to straighten the CF edge and test the fit because you'll be losing a little vertical length across the bust area of the pattern. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@exhibitjean]

If I already have a 1 inch bust dart and the front armhole gaping is 1/2"' and transfered it to bust dart wouldnt that make the dart too big? Are there limits to big darts?

[@JSternDesigns]

It is true that larger darts can be a little hard to get to sit properly... You can rotate the gap in the front armhole to the hem and then take it off the side seam... ...Also, if the gap is down lower near the base of the front armhole... that ease may be taken up by the sleeve when it's inserted in the armhole. :) Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me

[@exhibitjean]

@@JSternDesigns I will try that. Thank you. You are one of the few teachers online that explains things so well. And you demo's are the best.

[@susanwlodarczyk3888]

Why is your waist dart going all the way up to the apex? Thanks. Su.

[@JSternDesigns]

:) I didn't measure my half scale dressform to get the exact position of the tip of the dart for this tutorial... I did mentioned in the video that you want to be approximately 1/2" away for Cup Sizes A-C and 5/8" + away for D and D+ Cup Sizes. Thanks for fitting along with me

[@johnwatson2887]

In the same situation, why wouldn't you just make an armhole dart pointing to the bust apex?

[@JSternDesigns]

If you like the look of an armhole dart, you can do that... I should have mentioned that in this tutorial! Thanks for asking.. and for watching :)

[@Gosee22]

can we fix it without having any darts ?

[@JSternDesigns]

If you have gaping in the front armhole and you do not have a bust dart, it's likely that the gap is being caused because you need more room or shaping in the bust. Are you making a knit or non stretch top?

[@elizharber3564]

🧵✨

[@JSternDesigns]

:) Thanks for watching!

[@momzilla9491]

XOX

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks for watching!!