How to Remove or Replace BMW Footwell Module FRM

How to remove or replace a BMW FRM, also known as a footwell module in a 3 series for the models e90, e91, e92, and e93. Unfortunately my module bricked up during a scan when the battery died. Lessoned learned on my part and hopefully this can be a warning for others when working on this generation of 3 series, make sure you have a trickle charger on your battery when running scans for longer periods. A bricked or faulty FRM will cause issues such as no gauge lights, only the low beams will work, no fog lights, no license plate lights, no interior lights, keyless entry not locking the doors, non-functioning windows, no power mirrors, not being able to erase the check engine light, and footwell module fault on an OBD2 reader. #FOXWELL #DEOXIT #BMW #BMWE90 #BMW335d
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-10mm socket with 6" extension and 3/8" ratchet
-nylon trim tool
-interlocking pliers
-Deoxit D100L terminal cleaner/protectant
-OBD2 scanner
-phillips screwdriver
-T20 torx driver
Procedure:
Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery.
Remove the three t20 torx screws under the dashboard.
Then pull the panel down and straight back. You will need to disconnect the electrical plug on the left, the speaker, and then the light. There is a small component on the left side of the panel towards the front. I was having trouble with this connection, and instead of risking the chance of damaging it, I simply pulled back the tabs and disconnected it from the plastic panel instead.
Then the plastic trim panel can be fully removed.
Using a nylon, trim tool, pry up the trim panel along the door opening.
There are four clips underneath. These clips may stay in place and I will show you how to remove them before installing this panel back in place.
As you can see behind the hood release latch, there will be a Phillips screw. The hood release lever also needs to be removed, this is also held in with a Phillips screw
Remove these two screws, the hood release lever simply slides onto a rotational knob.
After that is pulling off the panel, the electrical plug for the trunk release will need to be disconnected.
For the football module, there will be two 10mm plastic nuts, holding this in place. The nut on the top side will need the wires to be pushed up.
There are white levers on each of the connectors, there are three in total. There is a small tab that needs to be pushed in, the lever can be pulled back, and the plug will be removed from its location on the module.
Here’s a quick view of the module once it has been removed, you can see the two bolt locations at the top and bottom slots.
Installation is in reverse of removal. You will need to tuck the module in on the top side and then push it back into place on the bottom side. The electrical connectors will need to be plugged in before having the module fully seated. Make sure those white levers are out and push the connector into place and the lever will need to be retracted back into place at the same time.
As for the plastic nuts, start the top one first and then start the bottom one.
I have reconnected the battery to ensure everything is working as it should before installing the rest of the trim panels.
As for removing those plastic clips, use interlocking players, wiggle the clip back and forth and pull straight up at the same time.
Reinstall that sidekick panel. Plug in the trunk switch. The door gasket will need to be pulled back so it’s slipped under it. Slide the panel into the one clip and then snap it back into place on the other one closer to the footrest.
Install the lower screw behind the hood lever. Install the hood release lever, and then threaded the other screw.
After that is reconnecting, all those electrical connections on that top trim panel. Ensure they are all properly snapped into place. If one of the fiber, optic connections are not fully seated, you will lose some radio function.
Push the panel back into place. Then reinstall the screws. Reinstall those clips back onto the trim panel, they simply slide into place. Then snap the panel back into place.
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© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

[@joepi]

After repairing my FRM, I had a hell of a time getting the damn thing back in. Hint: it is possible to have all the connectors installed properly, but the FRM is "backwards" (eg wrong side up.) UGH. Took me an hour to figure this out. Also, had to hook it up and leave it dangling, reconnect the battery, then move the power seats all the way back to improve access (I am short and the seat was pretty far up). Finally, you may get an SOS warning when the kick panel is removed. Hopefully this will resolve when I reinstall the fibre-optic cables. Wish me luck.

[@rooslunzelenskiy8750]

Thank you helped alot on my 2011 328i xdrive module went out when got the car so had it sent to guy who repaired modules and fixed mine works like new i hope stays like that!

[@4DIYers]

You're very welcome and happy to hear you got it fixed!

[@MrGibspoon]

Did you have the battery connected before you refitted, or the negative disconnected, or full disconnected? No-one seems to cover how to properly re-install and I don't want to fry my repaired FRM!

[@adamphillips2765]

I’ve just refitted my repaired frm with the battery disconnected, I believe you should leave it disconnected for at least 20 mins. Mine was disconnected for a couple hours as I was waiting for the frm through the post. Anyways, all lights are back working as they should.

[@MrGibspoon]

@@adamphillips2765 nice one. It’s a shame we have to worry about how to do this, and if the FRM a will survive reconnecting the battery!

[@oldchineseman7290]

@@adamphillips2765fully disconnected or ?

[@adamphillips2765]

@@oldchineseman7290 negative disconnected

[@RichBb.]

​@MrGibspoon how'd it go? Lol im doing this soon

[@wilki0193]

Thanks. Worked a treat. Well impressed.

[@4DIYers]

You're welcome!

[@4DIYers]

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[@Objectional_Opinion]

I came to this video to find out how you disconnected the grey tabs, and you just flew right through it. Alrighty then. Mine are on there good. Lol

[@4DIYers]

Push the connector in, sometimes they jam a little. Then push the tang on the backside, typically on the center top of the connector. While pushed in, there is a lever that needs to be pulled back. As the lever moves out, this will also pull the connector out of the location. Then finish pulling off.

[@JackRR15]

Yep, to add on to how it happened, sometimes simply disconnecting and reconnecting the battery can fry it to. I do think though the older they are the more prone this happens but yeah unfortunate finnicky module. Do note when you get it repaired, it doesn't' always last and can still have some things not work. I had repaired mine and for example I could not adjust my interior lights dimness anymore. Then about ~ 7 months later it gave up again, repaired it, then few weeks later gave up again and then that's when I bought a brand new one FK it.

[@MatthewSkala-zb6yb]

A common issue is the sunroof drains around the seal get clogged and the water simply travels down to the FRM, this is why it probably died on you after replacing a few times. It’s a pain in the ass I’m going through it now too, but it doesn’t hurt to have a cert foreign mechanic clean those drains and dry out any residual water left under the carpet where the Kbus wiring lies.

[@wonderwalls3565]

They go bad because the sunroof drain gets blocked and the water starts going to the place where the FRM module is. keep your car under shade adn if driving in the rain make sure once you have parked the car then either park on uphill under a shade or make sure to remove all the water from sunroof drainage channels.

[@4DIYers]

One of the reasons.

[@vortechca]

Same thing happened with my 2010 Mini’s FRM and I just had it reflushed. Question, is it a must to disconnect the negative terminal of my battery when re-installing my FRM? Please let me know. Thanks

[@4DIYers]

I would disconnect the battery terminal just to be safe. Apparently the FRM is also picky to potential voltage spikes or static from what I’ve read.

[@serghrndz4288]

Does the footwell module have something to do with the blower motor? My fuse is good, motor and resistor are new and still doesn’t work

[@muhammedcevdedgali8238]

I’m so confused ! is the FRm different from Lights module A3 ??

[@nkosinathiphumlane5739]

Hi can you assist, i have a BMW E60 525i, i took it to BMW dealer for a battery change and after that the iDrive screen started to be off sometimes and sometimes on and now it is completely off. The radio is not working too after the screen became completely off. I took it for a full diagnosis at BMW dealership, they told me they will put in a FRM module to check what is wrong with the car. The car doesn't switch off the electronics after a drive, i must take out the battery terminal cause it kills the battery, something is not switching off in the car. Can you help what would be the possibility to fix this. I was thinking of changing the FRM module to see if it will work

[@blck04gt]

Great video. No programming of the new FRM was needed? Just clear any faults?

[@4DIYers]

Thank you! I had the original FRM reprogrammed. The guy that did it for me, the only thing he required was the VIN.

[@You-can-fix-it]

Where can I reprogram it like you did?

[@pngxnate6426]

getting it back into my e92 has been the biggest pain in the ass the frm just doesn’t want to seat or take the rear connector

[@docmopar426]

What is the dangling module. Stainless plate with snap cover?

[@unrestrainedgaming3546]

If my current FRM module says E90 E91 LED BASIS FRM3R PL2 Can I replace it with one that says E87 E92 E93 AHL?

[@ClipChaser2271]

Can you install a frm3r pl2 in a bmw 328i 2011 four door ? I need help I’m trying to buy one but I don’t know if I even have the right one 😅

[@byyisuzzhd1768]

This can do My fan not to turn on?

[@2simco]

Your fan not turning on Can be the fan blower motor

[@jerryhelg6957]

Hi. My e90 320i passenger seat does work at all but the driver side everything works. Moving forward and backwards, tilt. Up and down. But passenger does not work, checked the wires and fuse and they are all good. could this relate to the FRM OR BCM MODULES. any information leading to this problem will be much appreciated. Thanks

[@justinhernandez218]

I have the same problem but for a 2007 335i! Did you fix this issue? If so was it the FRM?

[@DjGrooverGSMstudio]

Very nice 👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@4DIYers]

Many many thanks!

[@DjGrooverGSMstudio]

@@4DIYers thanks for your explanation and how to fix it, I did the X6 BMW fix so easily. Thanks mate I owe you.

[@Sam-xm4kd]

Could a foot well module cause all the cluster lights to come on and a non working speedometer along with constant running windshield wipers ?

[@DandyWaves]

Yup

[@sipmeister3611]

Could also be because hidden fuse box ducked up

[@DandyWaves]

@@sipmeister3611 i speak from experience. A faulty frm WILL cause wipers to run nonstop and cluster to not read or light up correctly

[@sipmeister3611]

​@@DandyWaves i talk from experience as well my entire dash flooded and so did inside the car for a whole year im going over everything slowly my wipers did the same thing. but i replaced the hidden fuse box and wipers never did it again im just missing functions in steering wheel and what not some buttons have fused together due to water damage amongst all electronics cars been my daily over a year but I've slowly been rebuilding everything shocks springs hidden fuse valve cover check valves 700$ scan tool vanos solenoid air filters cabin filter sparp plugs coils im well equipped. rear taillight seals broke and let water into battery cables making them a rust blob its a nightmare but a lovely car to learn and wrench on.