How to remove penetrating damp

[@jennywren8937]

We repaired gutters and drains, then repointed where necessary filling all visible cracks on the outside as well as areas where iron fixings had worn away. Next we formed a drip groove on the underside of concrete sills. Particular attention was paid to areas around doors and windows, also cable entries. Next we freed all outside vents and removed anything obstructing ventilation. Much of our old stone house has no heating but we ensure a good air flow, same in the main living areas where we rely mainly on dehumidifiers rather than heating. We recommend Stormdry on all old brickwork, including chimneys, and Sandtex on rendered areas. Only plaster which has crumbled and parted company need be removed on the inside walls, and after repair we like to use non vinyl finishes. Stormdry is one of the best products on the market in our opinion having prevented ingress from chimneys to inside walls, not cheap, but worth every penny.

[@sionhughes5543]

That makes for interesting reading . I have heard a lot of good things about storm dry but I was under the impression that it can only be applied to brick work that isn’t painted ??? Did you paint over painted walls ?

[@JohnSSSSS]

Trying to tank the inside of the wall seems crazy, as you're just locking the water in the wall. The wall is soaking wet, so it is structurally not ideal and should be allowed to dry out somehow. If this really is penetrating damp, then it would make more sense to prevent water penetrating in the first place somehow.

[@sionhughes5543]

The walls were all ready tanked and had been for 25 yeas . The damp areas were a result of a failure to that old tanking allowing water through . All I did was to repair the tanking barrier . The walls are solid and there is no DPC . I cant think of another way to prevent damp .

[@JohnSSSSS]

​@@sionhughes5543 It does seem odd. Walls will get wet, but should be able to dry out during dry weather. The heat from inside the building will assist this (and can be inhibited by wall insulation). If there are no cracked bricks and the wall is nicely pointed, then it is odd that you would still get issues. Although some would say to avoid it, something like stormdry would be a less invasive approach than tanking, as it prevents water ingress but still supposedly allows the walls to dry and to breathe. It also protects the brick from water, not just the inside of your house.

[@tomstephenson487]

Really good video Sion, very thorough and pragmatic. Easy to follow your thought process too! Looking forward to employing this approach. Cheers!

[@sionhughes5543]

Glad you enjoyed it Tom . Consider subscribing, if you haven’t already and check out my channel . I appreciate the kind words and wish all the best with your damp problems. Cheers Sion

[@rebeccak190]

help simon please!. I live on the bottom floor with a property facing my door and to the left kf my front door is a double door electrical smart meter stored cupboard which has all x10 flats meters inside . my home has had progressively had everything metal inside (fixtures n fittings.. some other items such as tin opener or suchlike become rusted the building of ten flats sits directly next to a running steam....only two Meters distance from wjete my bedroom wall (bed headboard actually) is. lovely to listen to it but im not to sure as to whether if i go ahead a try to fix the terribly damp flat it will just keep being damp. ive had a shock to be greeted at the electrical cupboard with water running down sockets. the housing association wasn't too bothered. seemwd to have sourced the leak i believe it to be rat damage from the families of Vermin living and breeding at the stream...in our walls and the electrical issue spanning from th knorring through cables. would you suggest that I leave.!?

[@rebeccak190]

oh i forgot to state main issue...stains and flaky plaster throughout...do i pre pva it .. or would you suggest with all that said i actually leave?? baring in mind it's a shared block of ten?

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Rebecca , First of all ,I am by no mean a damp expert. Your damp problems as describe are well beyond the scope of general DIY . I would imagine that your flat isn’t the only one suffering in the building . The amount of damp that you describe and the water running down the electrical box doesn’t sound safe or healthy . I wish you the best . Regards Sion

[@colinbrooks6290]

Hi, interesting video, would the KA tanking slurry work externally! Below the damp course !

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Colin , Honestly I don’t know but you could contact the makers and ask . I guess It probably would

[@colinbrooks6290]

@@sionhughes5543 Hi Sion, thanks…. I’m going try this method 👍 after checking with manufacture

[@azr6767]

Hi Sion, great video. I have a really silly question. Wouldn’t have made sense so seal the outside too because clearly water is getting in somehow?

[@sionhughes5543]

Your question is by no means a silly . The outside brick is a solid wall with no cavity and old pours brick with lime mortar . As such it is always going to absorb moisture especially as water runs down the walls when it rains because I have almost no overhang . I have painted the walls with Dulux exterior masonry paint and sadly that blocks water get in but it also stops water leaving the wall and evaporation to the outside. My repair was simply to fix the crack in the tanking to stop the damp leaking through the crack . Hope that helps. Cheers Sion

[@richardmiller3998]

Are you sure the paint on the outside hasn't blown in places trapping water? Painted bricks are bad

[@sionhughes5543]

Anywhere on the outside where paint is lifted always get scraped off and repainted.

[@swagger105]

Hi Sion, you need to remove the paint from the outside brickwork, the house cant breath, if you intend to paint brick on a old property that probably has lime mortar to help the property breath you need to you a mineral based paint like kiem so it still allows moisture to escape.

[@sionhughes5543]

That’s a job for the dry month of next year .

[@essentialhandyman]

I'd be interested to know whether the damp came back, one year on.

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi, Not in the side areas that I treated but some other little tiny patches appeared in the front wall .

[@essentialhandyman]

@@sionhughes5543 to be expected I guess, on a solid wall. I note from your wheelie bin video you’re in RBWM. I used to be a damp surveyor for Housing Solutions, which is based in Maidenhead. Small world!

[@gordyhydro5774]

Hi thanks for the informative video. Just had a quote 8.5k for a DPC solution on a small semi detached property. My son spoke to the contractor he is going to drill the outside tank the inside with a plastic membrane and re plaster. I'm a DIY fan I took all the plaster off the wall dry as a bone, not sure it even needs a DPC as it looks like it already has one. I'm sure you would smell damp if there was an issue. My plasterer has said look mate I have seen damp in my 40yr career and this house doesn't have damp. Who do u trust these days. Thanks again for giving your time and effort

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Gordy, I am genuinely glad to have been of service. The numbers quoted in the damp industry can be horrible and certainly in my mind unrelated to the amount of work needed . Sadly there are many good contractors out there and many bad ones . Knowledge is king . The more you know the better protected you are . I am certain that I would have been quoted at least a thousand, if not more . Check out my channel as there are another 60 videos you might find useful ,subscribe like and comment and I really appreciate the kind words . Cheers Sion

[@DoctorCreevy]

Hi Sion have you thought about larch cladding the front or storm dry. I’ve tried with storm dry to see how that performs against the driving coastal rain this autumn / winter. If that doesn’t work then I’m larch cladding it.

[@sionhughes5543]

HI, I am definitely going to try the storm dry as I have been recommended that product in the comments section a lot . I don’t think I have problems that you face with driving costal rain . Cheers Sion

[@mrdeafa25]

How is it doing a year on? Any further issues?

[@sionhughes5543]

The treated areas remain good but a few new areas have popped up . In all its ok for a house of its age and the huge amount of rain we have had . Hope that answers your very reasonable question. Cheers Sion

[@vinnyvasquez]

Very interesting. Would you now recommend jumping straight to step 2 with the more thorough cut-back? Curious if step 1 usually solves it and it was just the persistent leak that caused you to go to step 2. I might have to do the same and want to nail it in 1.

[@sionhughes5543]

As you saw they first attempt at just crack filling worked in some places . I genuinely hoped it would solve the problem. If you want to make sure you sort it on the first attempt then all the way back to the brickwork and make certain you haven’t left anywhere for the moisture to creep in . A single tiny hole can make a huge stain as you saw . Let me know how you get on .

[@sionhughes5543]

Please consider subscribing.

[@bwalyankaka6339]

Where can I get that in Zambia 🇿🇲

[@sionhughes5543]

Does EBay deliver???

[@bwalyankaka6339]

@@sionhughes5543 I never tried ebay ,I can have your number if possible

[@lmceric84]

Hi Sion, had you done damping survey before diy?

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Eric . The answer is no. I was quoted £1200 for an expert’s opinion. It is a big subject with many variables. I know that I made a mistake years ago painting the outside wall with latex paint . The walls were tanked before I bought my house and all I have done is to repair a physical crack/ hole in the tanking

[@SC-hk6ui]

Sadly, it will still find a way around the tanking compound. A dimple damp proof membrane with a mesh would allow it to drain more freely. I would also look into stitching the crack if you have access to the brickwork.

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi, So far the large area where I went back to brick is fine . The other side next to the window has definitely got some creeping back in . I am back to full time work now but once I have more time I intend a follow up video .

[@mklamo]

Good methodical approach to fixing a DIY problem. Well done

[@sionhughes5543]

Thank you for the nice comment. I dreaded the idea of getting in a so called damp specialist as it would have cost a fortune and I suspect they would have recommended stripping all the walls and complete re tanking them . Please consider subscribing and help me grow this channel.

[@razahussain860]

Someone on KZbin reviewed this vedio and said you have done it wribg and will blow. Has it the plaster failed and has the damp come back. The other KZbinr said you should primed using SBR and not unibond.

[@sionhughes5543]

I am sure there are many ways to deal with this problem. I repaired the tanking and so far so good no more damp patches . Cheers Sion

[@jessegoldswain5973]

Hello. Any chance of a follow up 11 months on? Maybe some photos? I would draw from this that moisture is unable to escape to the exterior due to painted façade and moisture would appear now elsewhere. What goes up must come down

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Jesse , I will be making a follow up video in the coming months .

[@Lord-Brett-Sinclair]

Great effort . For balance Damp Sam has done a reply to this , well worth a watch.

[@sionhughes5543]

Thanks for the lovely comment. I will search Damp Sam and watch it . Cheers Sion

[@williamsaunders4575]

Hi great video and not a bad attempt. I would also suggest to apply stormdry masonry cream to the wall outside which will stop pentrating damp. Also when it rains heavily check your guttering isn't spilling over in theose spots. The tanking will help but I'm not sure is long term it will resolve the issue. Around the window check all the around on the outerside that the silicon seal is good also. 👍 nice job 👏

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi William, I have had stormdry mentioned a number of times now and will paint the outside with it this summer . The roof overhang is non existent being such an old cottage and the water streams down the wall during heavy rain fall . The window is new and made and fitted by myself. The seal is good so I guess it just penetrated from the outside . I really appreciate the advice and will at some point be making alterations and another video charting what has worked and what hasn’t. Once again thanks. Cheers Sion

[@williamsaunders4575]

@Sion Hughes stormdry or any kind of masonry cream will fix the problem. Stormdry can bridge up to 0.6mm gaps which I think is pretty decent. It also allows your brickwork to breathe do you won't get trapped moisture.

[@sionhughes5543]

William that is all I needed to know .I will definitely be adding that during the dryer month THANK YOU BUDDY

[@DoctorCreevy]

@@williamsaunders4575it says on the storm dry tub not to be used on painted or rendered surfaces

[@philiphoddell5549]

Penetrating damp is coming from the outside. I hope what you have done works, but I suspect that you will have to treat/seal the OUTSIDE wall. IF the problem comes back I would suggest treating the outside wall with "Stormseal" approx £100 but its like a super duper Thompsons Water seal.

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Philip that sounds like solid advice and its the second time that product has been mentioned . Please consider subscribing and visit my channel for more videos . Cheers Sion

[@hupra72]

@@sionhughes5543 I can concur, Stormdry is brilliant and gives about 20 odd years of waterproofing. Having said that, these walls are painted, and Stormdry is meant to go onto the brick itself

[@Oliver-cn6ic]

Won't this stop the house breathing though ? I have a 220 year old georgian house with a similar issue and surely if I paint the outside with storm seal the house won't breathe?

[@c.m.4078]

I always think the best is to find the source of damp from outside, in other words is to find where the water is infiltrating from the outside rather stopping topper on the plaster inside. Once you found the way in and you fix it the inside walls will dry and problem is solved.

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi , as you can see from the beginning of the video and all the shots of the outside of the house there are no obvious places I could pin point as where the water was getting in . Many people have recommended in the comments section a product called STORMDRY which inhibits water ingress but allow moister trapped within the brick to escape . I think I will paint that on the outside wall when the weather warms up .

[@nicholashadjipetrou315]

Can you apply this storm dry over painted render ?

[@LibertypopUK]

could you not just change the paint to a breathable paint so the moisture can escape rather than prevent it ?

[@sionhughes5543]

Its a good point . I am not sure how I would remove the outside paint . I have plans to paint the outside wall with STORMDRY once the weather warms up

[@keithlittle293]

How is it now mate?

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Kieth , the big area to the right remains perfect. Around the window a couple of patches.

[@keithlittle293]

@@sionhughes5543 are the walls solid you know or have a cavity?

[@sionhughes5543]

Solid

[@ethanroberts804]

That's Impressive tbf. Might not work long term though, why not think about getting cladding it completely stops the water from getting in

[@sionhughes5543]

That’s a very interesting idea and something I might consider in the future

[@Umme202]

Hi,Thank you for making such informative video.Since this video is a year old, I would like to know if this treatment remained a success or the dampness came back? Thanks once again ❤

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi, The answer is yes to the big area to the right hand side which was my main worry . I Have a tiny damp stain around the window which I will re treat by cutting back and covering in tanking slurry then re plaster once I get the time so I hope that helps . As far as I am concerned it works . What I have learned is that you always need to cut back a little more of the damp area than you would initially think . Hope that answers your question. Cheers Sion

[@jasonbuksh2958]

Wouldn't a cheaper solution be to waterproof the outside of the house with a product like Storm Dry ?

[@sionhughes5543]

I have had this point made in the comments before and I will use that product when I next paint the outside .

[@johnmorrison2894]

Best thing for this is to point you bricks with lime and lime plaster the interior this will allow the building to breath. All you done is divert the water else where.

[@sionhughes5543]

All I was attempting to accomplish was to repair the areas of internal tanking that had failed. With that goal in mind I feel I could have done little else differently

[@gaurasrspublishing]

I don't understand why you didn't just hack it all back to bare brick and then apply the tanking. Plus the tanking is meant to be a slurry, you can apply it with a brush and second coat should be applied quite soon after the first coat.

[@sionhughes5543]

I just wanted to repair the areas that were broken and leaking. I accept what you say would’ve been better, but would cost infinitely more and taken a hell of a lot longer.

[@gaurasrspublishing]

@@sionhughes5543 Well not infinitely more, just a little more - the materials are really quite inexpensive. And time-wise, if it were done properly from day one then you wouldn't need to keep re-visiting it to do it a second and third time. Do it right and do it once.

[@phillipgriffiths9624]

This won’t solve it. Your house would have originally had lime pointing and render. This allowed the walls to breathe. Cement, thistle etc will serve only to make walls more damp. You could have used hotlime render and a breathable paint. Outside, you could have pointed and rendered with lime and then used Stormdry. This allowed water to escape but stops it entering the wall. Bottom line: don’t use modern methods on a period property.

[@sionhughes5543]

I accept a lot of what you say. However, this video is about me attempting to repair the tanking that had been applied 30 years prior. As for the use of storm dry that would only work on brick that had never been painted.

[@swagger105]

Hi Sion, its not penetrating damp you have mate, the stuff you hacked off was bone dry, it’s a condensation issue you have. Little tip for you, never put pva on new plaster it wont be able to breath, it needs a mist coat of paint diluted with 10% water before applying 2 top coats, damp sam man on youtube also has a few words about this video.

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi, I have made a few errors in the treatment of this old house and am now wondering how to fix them . I have so many layers of Dulux weather shield on the outside wall , all of which is a killer on those old brick walls . Also the room was tanked 30 years ago and I was attempting to repair the tanking . I have a concrete floor which I covered in self levelling compound and that has water spots all over it . I wonder if I could sand blast the paint off the outside wall then coat it with STORMDRY and paint over the top of it . The cottage is 1837 and all white . The outside wall has no overhang which causes the rain to streak down the wall . I am considering creating an over hang to keep the wall dry but after hearing all that I have said what’s your advice? Cheers Sion

[@okafka5446]

First bit of advice would be to watch Damp Sam's video on the true culprit here - condensation. One point I would add to your mention of Stormdry - if you do go that route, Stormdry is not supposed to be painted over. They have a very helpful technical advice team, if you have further questions.@@sionhughes5543

[@robtatum5277]

Just bought a 225 yr old house in wales the whole place had been painted on outside with masonry paint so had the whole place sandblasted back to the stone. Even though there are many areas pointed with cement after opening all the windows say an inch & putting the heating on the difference after 4 wks is amazing. Plenty of lime mortar & pointing required but these buildings need to breath & need to be cared for

[@sionhughes5543]

Sounds like you have a lovely old place

[@jonathanmccartney3242]

You need to get rid of the plastic paint on the outside. That will be trapping moisture.

[@sionhughes5543]

I am going to paint STORMDRY on during the warmer months. Its been recommended a lot in the comments section . That is breathable but yes I wish I had put that on years ago instead of Dulux masonry paint . We all live and learn .

[@davidellis5964]

Hi, just watched you video. Being a qualified remedial survey and owning my own business for over 30 years you have the wrong idea? These walls have been treated for rising damp before (sand and cement render) The crack that you are pointing-out isn't the cause of the damp. The cause of the damp is either due to residual moisture trapped within the brickwork from previous works, sand & cement can trap moisture especially where a strong water proofer has been added, with high salt deposits, most salt is hygroscopic ie these salts attract moisture from the air, penetrating damp from externally- porous brickwork or leaking rainwater goods. Treating the walls with a cementitious slurry isn't the answer ! you are just sealing in the moisture, also you should use S.B.R not unibond. If this was my job I would remove all the plaster back to brickwork, use a builders drier (dehumidifier) to dry the walls out. treat the walls with two coats of salt neutralizer. The external area remove all the paint off the brickwork, repoint the bricks with sand-lime, and brush apply the brickwork with Stormdry or similar product. these products will still let the bricks breath but will stop any excessive moisture from entering the brickwork. Internal once the bricks have dried, replaster with a lime base plaster and repaint with a prorus paint, Also keep the room well ventilated and heated.

[@davidcameron7597]

Those solid walls need to breathe. No PVA. Get rid of the outside paint & replace with limewash. No tanking on the inside, use lime plaster.

[@sionhughes5543]

I certainly wish the previous owner not painted and tanked the inside

[@sionhughes5543]

Visit my channel for 50 videos on building, woodwork, restorations and lawn care . I hope find this video useful and please consider subscribing

[@garvielloken3929]

The plastering was on point! 👌

[@sionhughes5543]

I am working on the fire place in that room at the moment. Hope to make a video of installing a rustic beam over the fire place

[@jonmould2946]

I have the same problem if it was left as exposed brick would that work?

[@Arthur6495]

Good job daddy ! looking forward to seeing you next month !

[@sionhughes5543]

Indeed son

[@agnieszkasuchenia3179]

Excellent video and you get max points just for perseverance! There's very little free advice out there on what can be done about damp. Well done for solving it on your own! Beautiful plastering too!

[@sionhughes5543]

What a lovely comment. Really glad you enjoyed the video and found it useful.

[@Antzzz_Manzzz]

Good job 👏🏼

[@sionhughes5543]

Your welcome. Cheers Sion

[@completepreservation]

Great effort with that video bud 👍 to me it looks like hygroscopic salts from the long term burning of fossil fuels, rather than penetrating damp. Analysis can be done following BRE Digest 245, and some salt analysis 👍 personally if it was me I would lower those ground levels, and remove the black band if modern plastic paint as it will trap moisture 👍

[@sionhughes5543]

Really glad you enjoyed it and I agree with your observations on modern day paints. I have had salt crusts in another part of the house which look very different so I personally think that was penetrating damp . I want to change the drive outside the house and when I do I am going to deepen the trench at the same time . That should help . Please consider subscribing and help me grow this little channel and thank you for your professional advice

[@SammyInnit]

Your problem was condensation. That render was bone dry, so it wasnt damp.

[@sionhughes5543]

It was a crack in the render and moisture had worked its way through . I promise

[@WellAye]

I disagree that this is ingress. It’s clearly condensate. Forming onto surface. Cold spots in the wall. Misdiagnosed in my opinion.

[@sionhughes5543]

Sorry I cant agree . There is a lot of good advice in the comments section that are an education on the subject. Cheers Sion

[@yvonfem]

Wrong thats not gonna work for long you will find it will come back youre walls cant breathe you have painted bricks on the outside as well youre walls cant breathe or dry out

[@sionhughes5543]

It’s all I could do as the walls have been painted for many many years . I moved in in 1993 and painted over the white wash on the outside with masonry paint . The interior walls had been tanked a couple of years before and its only in the last year that it has had damp spots appearing as a result of the cracks in the interior tanking . I know I should have stuck to white washing the outside but I am confident this repair will will work until other cracks appear which will hopefully be a few years away.

[@anneevans9154]

Sion totally agree with your explanation of rising damp. However will tnking the wall stop it from breathing and cuse further damage to the bricks in time?? would you not of been better off using a plaster for the age of your house which is breathable? Good luck.

[@robtatum5277]

Yep 100%correct crap paint on the outside & crap gypsum & tanking on the inside

[@dingle5115]

STORMDRY painted on the outside of the house . Job done

[@sionhughes5543]

I think that wouldn’t help in my situation as in my situation the moisture is coming up from the ground . Even painting my brick work with weather shield apparently stops the walls from breather and causes moisture issues .

[@dingle5115]

@@sionhughes5543 yeah I don't rate weather shield. Stormdry is alot more expensive but it is breathable . As for rising damp either damp proofing with injection or you can buy these things where you drill the holes along where the damp coarse should be and stick in these plastic looking rods which then expand into the brickwork for a DIY option. At the end of the day old houses have problems aka' character ' and mine has plenty of character , ha ha . All the best bud 👍

[@sionhughes5543]

Cheers . I have damp spots on the concrete floor in that room and all I can do is put down carpet . If I put plastic down it will just just stop breathing and spreed out to rise up the wall . Old houses , they are a challenge.

[@JackSmith-kp2vs]

Should have just put lime plaster over it. You want it to breath not keep the damp in the wall

[@sionhughes5543]

I’m sure you’re right in what you say, but the rest of the wall was covered in normal plaster, so that’s what I used

[@JackSmith-kp2vs]

@sionhughes5543 Sorry to say it but that awful tanking slurry stuff will have to come off at some point or it will damage the wall by trapping in the damp

[@JTKhopefuls]

it looked more like the masonry needed some repointing ,good work nonetheless!

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Jonathan, I repointed the outside a while back but should have done it with lime mortar . Glad you enjoyed the video and please consider subscribing.Thanks for taking the time to comment

[@TheOgapatapata]

Thanks so much!!!

[@sionhughes5543]

Your welcome Christian. Cheers Sion

[@waynekieft4952]

By not tanking the whole wall you will just push the damp to come out elsewhere!

[@sionhughes5543]

It certainly over the past year has shown itself in new areas.

[@waynekieft4952]

@@sionhughes5543 You can't win with tanking. We have tanked whole walls in our home,it has stopped the penetrating damp but now has caused us condensation problems because the walls can't breathe! Best solution is to treat it from the outside,there are a few products on the market now that have resolved alot of damp issues for many a home owner. Hope you solve your problems,because we have been trying for years at a great expense!

[@sionhughes5543]

I have had STORMDRY recommended many times but after looking up the product it can only be applied to bear brick and as my wall have been painted 30 times since 1837 I cant use that product. My old cottage has zero overhang and so the water pours down the wall . I am giving serious consideration to creating an over hang as well as considering cladding the outside wall . Do you know of any products that can be painted over a painted wall on the outside to help prevent water penetration?

[@waynekieft4952]

@@sionhughes5543 Hello Sion my son is a civil engineer I've had a word with him! And his recommendation would be to create a overhang even if youbtreat the walls. I believe there is a new product by wetherdry that can be applied over paint by using a bonding agent first. But like my son says you would be better off in the long run to create a overhang. I know hiw frustrating this can be, we have spent thousands over the years on builders and D.I.Y products. We are at the point where our house is basically not worth a penny!

[@BALLOOROOM]

@@sionhughes5543 Have a look at sprayed on cork CorkSol they claim it's water resistant and it comes in many colours. Their FAQ section is quite comprehensive and I'm sure if you contact them they'll be able to tell you if it's a good fit or not. Good luck!

[@humpy151065]

you did not solve the problem of why its penetrating

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Anthony , Given that the front section of my cottage has no DPC and is a solid brick wall all I can do is what you saw me do . Currently there is a tiny damp patch around the window but the other side where the wall was badly stained is still as dry as the day I first repaired it. The results I achieved with the money I spent works for me . The old bricks suck up moisture and rain streams down that wall when it rains . Old cottages as I am sure you know need constant maintenance. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Cheers Sion

[@kalamuddin4253]

Dump proofing course is so expensive

[@sionhughes5543]

Well back in 1837 they didn’t have any . Not sure I can fit it retroactively

[@Micsa66]

well done, impressed.

[@sionhughes5543]

Thank you for the nice comment. I hope you find some other videos on my channel to enjoy and if you do please consider subscribing.

[@extricatem7832]

Dude thanks so much for this video, you inspired me to tackle my penetrating damp by myself and even try plastering. So cheap!

[@sionhughes5543]

I am so pleased to hear you say that . I will say that in my case I have found that I have other new places where it comes through but that’s just part of owning an old house . This certainly works for repairing tanking

[@philsinfield4665]

good for you.

[@sionhughes5543]

Thank you Phil . Cheers Sion

[@thehum1000]

Dont paint exterior walls on old houses.

[@sionhughes5543]

Wise advice I know but this old cottage has been white at least the 1920,s . Granted it would have been that white wash solution

[@devbachu7072]

My walks getting do

[@sionhughes5543]

Is you wall getting damp?

[@devbachu7072]

@@sionhughes5543 yes I see this flaky g off paints often an the area is damp due to poor air circulation

[@sionhughes5543]

Sounds about right .

[@balkanhajduk]

And £200 of your time/labour

[@sionhughes5543]

Kind words . Glad you enjoyed it . Please consider subscribing and I hope I saved myself £200 , which is the same as earning it , I guess . Cheers Sion

[@MrFatboyRuns]

Foooooook I just spent £250 on damp rods believing that I had rising damp issues.... Wish I was this video first

[@sionhughes5543]

Really glad it helped . Cheers Sion

[@Britishgundogtraining]

Damp rods are the way to go , I’ve used the above method and all you do is trap water in between the brick work and the tanking , all damp has to be worked backwards the outside of the house in, this tanking will work for a while maybe some Years but then the water will ingress elsewhere as the the water builds up and the brick work becomes completely saturated and the integrity of the brick will go to shit, at least before the tanking the moisture had someplace to escape and evaporate away now it has no place to go and it will always head towards the warmer temperatures which is inside your house , I would treat the outer brick work with a product as mentioned in the comments as well as dry rods which are great and then I would take the wall back to brick work on the inside and allow it to dry out for some months then I would use a damp meter to test how dry it is actually getting and when it’s dry I would hardwall it and plaster, and believe me rising damp will rise houses have boilers and radiators houses heat up inside considerably unfortunately bridges don’t, great diy video all the same and the plastering is defo on point 👍

[@stevewatering932]

​@@Britishgundogtraining I have damp on my walls, coming up six to ten inches in a bay window area but had one guy say it was rising damp and another penetrating damp!! Tried stormdry on the outside and the permaguard rods/cream but neither seems to have done the job!!! What now?😮

[@michaelchristie2536]

How about treating the outside first to stop penetrating damp, you did not state if external issues were evident and if issues were rectified. You’re tanking system/instructions are not the best, possibly rubbish, you do not tank on top of a crack or fill to the surface internal render/plaster crack, bollocks. External render/pointing repair required 1st including seals to door/window frames to elimanate water penetration/ingress, an external water seal would also be advised if possible. The internal plaster would be advised to be rmoved if issues persist and a tanking slurry salt retarding render/skim coat applied to the affected areas.

[@sionhughes5543]

Thanks for the comment. Lots to think about

[@chloetonge]

Really helpful Thankyou!

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Chloe , really glad you found it useful. check out my channel and hopefully you might find other videos you find equally as helpful. Cheers Sion

[@robtatum5277]

Holy Moses what are you doing ? Lime lime lime is the answer it’s an old house so don’t use new products. Check out Peter ward or any lime specialists The walls inside & out need to breath

[@sionhughes5543]

As I said in the video I am just repairing the tanking. I don’t disagree with what you’ve said. Sadly my whole house has been painted and the downstairs of the front has all been tanked. My main problem is the fact I have no overhang and that when it rains water literally pours down that wall, upstairs I have exposed brick and that’s just as damp

[@fadeelbaurtally1449]

This is dangerous advocating mal practices which is ruining our period housing stock Remove plaster and render, render with lime based render and plaster internally with a lime plaster and then decorate with a mineral based paint. These properties have stood the test of time till non traditional methods of refurbishment have been adopted. A note to all please do not follow this or use cementicious renders on traditional solid wall construction.

[@sionhughes5543]

I must admit I am unable to critique your harsh words . All I would say in my defence is that I was repairing the tanking that was applied 30 years ago before I owned the property. I take on board all you say , but as you know I have to live with day to day reality of the situation. I have had a product called STORM DRY recommend in the comments section , a breathable paint ideal for allowing moister to escape and not ingress . I think during the summer when everything has dried out I will paint that outside wall and see how that effect the situation. I appreciate your fondness for these beautiful old buildings and I certainly have no intentions of bring forward there demise . Best wishes Sion.

[@MuhammadAbbas-mq5ty]

This guy is a fool he is tanking on old clay bricks which will always bring back damp the solution is use lime plaster or add a new DPC if it is rising damp you can also get a breathable waterproof cream for brick walls he says hes fixed the solution but he has ruined the bricks behind they will turn to dust if water is trapped between the wall. also Masonry paint?

[@sionhughes5543]

Hi Muhammad , I take on board your point and would ask you to consider my objective which was to repair a failure in the interior tanking which has been there about 30 years now . There is no DPC layer to that part of the house . I can only put a breathable underlay and carpet down and keep the room ventilated and remove moister when ever I can . The tanking worked so well for so long all I am trying to do is repair it . For the money I spent I cant complain but I agree with a lot of what you say even if I would prefer not to be labelled a fool . I am sure you understand. Cheers for taking the time to comment. Sion

[@anverk]

Not rising damp but penetrating damp caused by rain seeping through the wall. I would have done all that work on the exterior rather than mess up the interior. If cavity wall, then drill some holes on the outer wall for water and moisture to escape.

[@MuhammadAbbas-mq5ty]

@@sionhughes5543 Maybe it worked for your cottage but most Victorian and Edwardian houses iv worked on who tank inside walls see brick work crumbling after a while due to moisture sitting in the brick not to mention the mortar turns to soil, if the problem is not fixed externally. i would have hacked the masonry paint off(Vapor closed) used some acid wash depending on whats left lime render prevents water ingress but is (Vapor open) stopping the water passing and allowing any humidity left through hence not destroying the brick (You could even do lime Harling it works just as well). Or the easier method use Storm-dry cream but make sure your pointing is in lime based or it is pointless. Apologies for the profanity. Hope this helps others interested.

[@lksf9820]

What a terrible job, this video needs a new title - How I tried to cure damp, but failed.

[@sionhughes5543]

Hmmm, well I spent £80 and apart from a tiny spot that’s reappeared around the window it worked . Happy Christmas

[@lksf9820]

@@sionhughes5543 I've read all the comments below. It hasn't worked, will continue to not work and quite the opposite, will get worse. I know this as a professional working with old (damp and ruined) buildings. You wasted £80 and days of labour. You've set yourself up for a fall reckoning to teach people something which you haven't a clue about. Happy Christmas.

[@TeeTee-zm2re]

​@@lksf9820tell us what he did wrong then