HOW TO REMOVE SNAPPED STUDS / BOLTS WITH A WELDER

[@NixonInDaGhetto]

Dude, that was an epic example. You proved it efficacy even with the threads being cross threaded.. You were very clear and informative. Thanks for sharing

[@jaquesdaniels2964]

Best example I've seen yet of this method because it often does not work first go, so good on you for showing how it goes in the real world. On the one that have snapped off flush, maybe putting a washer on the piece would allow you to build up weld on the stud/bolt without catching the surface of the part? (never tried it, ). That one was well stuck, noticed you used the old trick of tightening a tad, everytime I do that, they shout" wrong way" LOL, but it does work sometimes.

[@Urchfab]

That's a good idea with the washer, il use that next time. Cheers

[@carstenfunk6075]

I always place a washer first, even and especially in case the bolt stud broke below the surface. I allways try to turn the piece out when it is still hot from welding. And last hint: there are much better rust solving lubricants available than WD40. WD40 is multiple purpose but not the best choice for any other purpose than just having one can in the tool box. Try more spefific lubricants!

[@melgross]

I tap on the stud a few times before welding. Not too hard, but it sometimes breaks the rust, and whatever junk is locking it together. Then I weld. Then I tap again and add whatever I have on hand to lubricate it. The washer is a good idea.

[@thisname1is1sukzable]

amen brother!!

[@ΣίμοςΚάνδιας]

This method you said it works i tried it last year because my supreme jinius did an excellent work in my car and I wanted to repair it

[@superrodder2002]

Greetings from Canada. I put a washer over the broken stud and weld it on first. You'll get better penetration into the stud. Then weld the nut over that. Let it cool and try it. If it still won't budge, I'll heat the part with the torches and it usually comes out easy. Enjoy watching your vids. Thanks.

[@Urchfab]

Yes thats a good tip, will try it next time. Cheers

[@josephfahy9995]

Your a star. Seeing it not work for gave me to confidence to keep trying. 5 nuts later and and 6 hours it finally began to move

[@randykudijaroff482]

I love your work man! I'm kinda digggin' the birds chirpin' in the background too though. Cheers from Tacoma, Wa.

[@jbam83]

I was fighting some locking lug nuts and couldn’t remember if you needed to let the but cool before trying to remove it or not. You answered my question, thanks man!

[@binagarten4667]

Great upload wish they had youtube when I was a mechanic.

[@richardballinger517]

Had a similar problem with a blind hole on my motorbike engine. Bolt corroded in, head broke off but had enough to weld a nut to. Did exactly the same, nut just came off, ended up just building up the end of the broken bolt with weld. The cycling hot/cold did the job. Was able to unscrew with a mole grips then. Almost paid a lot of money for one of those induction heaters to do the same thing, obviously a worthwhile investment if you're doing this a lot.

[@InfiniteCheeseCrates]

I've always had issue with using a nut for it, so once its proud I use a smaller bolt and offset it for a little extra torque. Typically the heat from the welder causes enough differential heating that it breaks free enough so the smaller bolt will not snap.

[@simonwhitehurst4120]

It's nice to see a uk welding fad shop keep up the good work

[@markb329]

Nice demo! I did this for a mate on a dolly sprint when I was a teenager about 35 years ago. He'd started the job himself then snapped the stud. I was well chuffed with myself for coming up with idea. I earnt £100 quid I think. That included putting the engine back together again. For info, you would be better off using penetrating oil rather than WD40.

[@carlosceoofredlinequickshift]

That vice in the intro video is a great site, seen in many work shops and garages I've seen throughout my child hood haha

[@monkey32z]

Add a bit of white candle wax while still fairly hot. It sucks in like solder and it's a lubricant.

[@Urchfab]

I've never heard of that, I will give it a try next time. Cheers

[@justinvandergriff3859]

I can vouch for this method. I learned it from a retired machinist. Get it nice and hot with a torch, hit it with a stick of wax like you're trying to solder copper pipe together.

[@doktortutankamazon31]

I have been a toolmaker-machinist for 35 years and this works. It also avoids getting welding splatter on mating surfaces. Personally I would just drill the stud out. Just center punch with a transfer punch to get centered and use a drill.

[@michaelkorolev2115]

Thanks for sharing that I appreciate the reality of it and the hurdles thank you

[@1peanut]

can you use this method on aluminum head ? I have a broken exhaust manifold stud on my honda accord.

[@dielauwen]

This method works better with an oxy acetylene torch. You weld the nut on and the casting gets heated red. Let it coll as you tap tap tap on the head of the nut with a small hammer. The it usually come right out. In an aluminum casting weld it quickly and back it out without tapping or cooling. Real handy on Audi heads.

[@rsbharley4766]

Great info Matt, thanks for sharing. Cheers.

[@stephenjohnston6623]

Another great tip I have learned from you. Thank-you!

[@weldweld5629]

Usually easier when you do it when the part still has some heat from welding

[@prime553]

Should have heated the housing also where the snapped bolt was

[@Handereli]

Thank you, even if it didn't work at first, i'm glad so I wont feel alone when that mother f****** wont move, you showed us what to do if that is the case and that's appreciated :)

[@Mc3ks]

Isnt this assuming the screw has a rust free connection to the rest of the piece where you can then attach your ground to? Cuz i tried to do this but couldnt get an arc at all and i cant attach to the back side of the bolt or anything like that

[@ducati644]

Thansk for the video. My stud was so stuck in there, the bolt just kept breaking. I had to drill it out.

[@angelf9800]

What welder did you use and what were the settings

[@markcooper1505]

Good informative video for people 👍

[@y2j514]

I guess I'm a shit welder. Have a snapped bolt that's sitting just proud of an aluminum head. It is a small stud, and every time I weld a nut to it, it snaps off with very little force. I'm pretty sure I'm just "filling the nut" instead of welding to the stud and tying it in. But it's a small nut and stud on a 10HP engine. Any pointers? High heat? Slow wire speed? Higher wire speed, low heat? any other combo? Try and angle the weld puddle?

[@Urchfab]

Try welding a washer on, then weld the nut to the washer.

[@y2j514]

@@Urchfab thats a good idea! I'm going to try this tonight. Thanks for that

[@y2j514]

@@Urchfab You SUNUVA GUN! It worked!!! Thanks so much!

[@carriep7812]

Tried 6x to do this and I ran out of nuts. I think if I were not upside down, I could have got it to work. Anyb advice on how to do this upside down? Thanks for the video!

[@Urchfab]

Try a larger nut and increase the wire speed a little to help with being upside down.

[@jimmywells33]

You also have to heat the part that surrounds the threads with a torch to guarantee success.

[@timtrial3971]

My first employer taught me this. Not only give s you but but also the heat t helps it break loose

[@psk1w1]

Ideally you want the bolt to be cold and the housing hot, so it expands away from the stuck bolt. So it's best to let it cool thoroughly after welding the nut on, put penetrating oil on it (in this case the threaded hole is open at the bottom), and then heat the housing

[@garagekeys]

You should loosen with an impact the hammering actions helps loosen it

[@davidgruen7423]

Wy don’t use test the thread by torquing the bolt to the spec on the suspected hole? So you don’t have to put a time sert in there while the part is on the car.

[@josephfahy9995]

Btw how I got it out in end. Steel bolt in aluminium wheel hub. Reckon it was glued in. Welding horizontal. Built out a 10mm mount. Nuts were not bonding well enough. I welded old broken wrench onto the weld on bolt stub. Let it cool. Then tapped up down with hammer.

[@scirockalot8v]

I've done this on broken bleeder screws as well.

[@leep6875]

another great video, how about a car rollover jig?????

[@Urchfab]

Il see what i can do, Cheers

[@heilong79]

Is this at high power - low feed settings?

[@nealesmith1873]

Nice!

[@guillermonieri4203]

Great suggestion. Thank you.

[@Urchfab]

Cheers

[@ronaldphillips5481]

you could also drill a hole through the stud put a left-hand thread through it insert a bolt and undo.

[@stevefuller1779]

Never worked in the almost fifty years I've been at it, if the broken bit is free enough for that to work it won't be hard to remove anyway.

[@cigarboxpickandslide2979]

Just got my first welder and had this prob many times .Great info thanks!

[@immanutt4442]

also try welding a heavy washer to broken stud/bolt ... then weld a heavy nut to the washer

[@parkr270]

Duramax?

[@carlosceoofredlinequickshift]

Such great fucking videos gets me hyped every time I type in welding something or the other the best ones I find are your videos new subscriber and new welder 😂doing few practice welds then have to weld my car up 😅😂i wish I was joking. But this has saving me 15 pound ontop of the rest problem like over 300

[@grabir01]

Give it a min at the most and then remove it while still hot. Do not let it cool.

[@tonee667]

What type of welding would this be called , ?

[@cookieuk1278]

mig

[@SamandBellaTuxedocats]

3:38 Always remove things like Wd-40 Gas bottles away from Sparks very dangerous situation to leave them so close.

[@alanhillyard1639]

Speaking from experience there are you? Or just adding ‘really dangerous’ to something that you personally think is possible to happen

[@sblack48]

Nice. You will find oil is much better than wd40 for tapping. Any kind of oil, even bacon fat. Wd40 is pretty useless as a cutting oil.

[@M70ACARRY]

quenching is acceptable, especially with PB Blaster

[@srs_lol]

Thanks man..!!

[@Urchfab]

No problem, Cheers

[@stanleykinzinger]

I got one bolt out of this pin no problem (have done this many times) Currently on my 4th nut on the opposite side. This bolt MUST have been cross threaded in.

[@patrickbuildsalot5348]

One thing I never do is use a rasterbator. Mostly because I’m 25 and live on the term what doesn’t kill me makes me stronger. But as I’m putting so much hard work in learning to become the best I can be I’m now thinking on making the effort decide to use one. I guess using some kind of face mask be okay as they can get expensive. Looking forward to watching more of your vids.

[@Rusiputki]

So I have bad luck welding inside nuts, they always snap too easily (maybe too much slag). It's even impossible when it's under a car and you can't get below to see in the middle what you are welding. So here is a tip for all you guys, get a washer, or drill a thick steel, weld that instead, and now weld the nut to the washer/plate but on the outside, making sure your socket can still get on the nut. Voila, much more secure weld without snapping off. Shit like that makes me want to try 7018 instead of 6013 electrodes to see if it makes a difference in strength.

[@OldJoe212]

This method, an Easy-Out, then drill out and re-tap. Always start with the easiest. Good Job. Also, try mixing up some homemade penetrating oil, 50% Acetone - 50% Automatic Transmission Fluid. I've been using it for a few years now and always successful. Must be shaken often but worth the trouble.

[@Urchfab]

I remember someone telling that years ago and could never remember the mix, il make some up. Cheers

[@joell439]

Interesting. I need to make some up too.

[@bryanlatimer-davies1222]

Joe Atwork this method then easy out snap easy out in stud take to machine shop welcome to my world

[@riderzinc]

Easy outs are shit, Snap one of those and the job is 10x harder

[@noanyobiseniss7462]

Damn straight! Drilling an easy out is a nightmare.@@riderzinc

[@papalilburn]

Kroil! Try it, you'll like it!

[@ashbridgeprojects6916]

Could also drill the thread totally out and put a nut on the other side.

[@hanshoogendyk2203]

You sure can. Its also called backyard repairs... Just remember this saying: Cheap and fast doesn't last!!!!!!

[@davidlawrencebanks4610]

Cool extraction,....... LAG

[@denisdb725]

WD 40 from below? Why don't twist the part upside down? Put soms WD 40 leave it for a few minutes and agan try to complete the job?

[@blitzeral8620]

Came here looking for ideas and turns out the stud I’m trying to remove Is in exactly the same location on the same turbocharger haha. Must be a common problematic stud

[@businessandpoliticsinswede3138]

he didn't heat the stud before trying to loosen it.

[@ShivaShiva-et5xt]

Car key injan ka bolt nikal keeps dikhaoo

[@moosiani1]

Heat does wonders. Can’t believe he’s actually using wd40.

[@kevinhancock4064]

Mma do the job too fella . ?

[@mikevarney7453]

lol the biggest problem here is that you're using WD40 as a penetrating lubricant.

[@cookieuk1278]

Use Plus Gas instead.

[@doktortutankamazon31]

Easier to drill it out. Avoids welding splatter on the mating surface. I wouldn't want welding near a cylinder head.

[@andrewdean4959]

Lol 😆 obviously you’ve never worked flat rate I’ve used this method on broken studs in aluminum cylinder heads for years and it works like a charm and I have never had an issue with it

[@betareybill9400]

Had you heated the area around the bolt before removing it...it would've come off much easier w/o breaking...or using penetrating oil...NOT WD-40.

[@YorkyPudinz]

Should remove it while hot!!!!!!!!!!

[@alanhillyard1639]

Metal expands when it’s hot, if you’ve put all the heat into the stud it’s going to be interfering more with the hole. Best to wait till it’s cold, then heat the housing hard and fast to expand that away from the stud and get it out quick before the heat transfers into the stud as well

[@YorkyPudinz]

@@alanhillyard1639 your theory is correct but in practice it is the opposite thats the truth. Iv been a mechanic/engineer many years and have experimented with both, and hot wins every time.

[@transam4spd650]

What size wire do you use?

[@Urchfab]

0.8mm