How to replace a fluorescent light fitting with an energy saving LED batten

[@VurhongaSavannah]

This is exactly what I needed. I was having real trouble getting a secure connection using the connector provided, and when you pulled it out and used a different block it was a light bulb moment. Many thanks!

[@bigtedshome]

Thanks Nick. I'm glad you found the video useful 🙂

[@JohnPooley-te9ei]

Nice1..Big Ted & thank u

[@portpete450]

Brilliant. We had ours replaced by an LED one last July. Worked great till last week when it started flickering like the old one. Now its gone out and Im clueless what to do with it as its a sealed LED unit. Thats progress. Our led spot light in the bathroom has been flickering for about 3 years as well but seemingly I have to replace the entire unit, spoiling the ceiling plaster in the process, to sort it. More progress.

[@Professor-Scientist]

Absolutely perfect video. Simple, easy to understand and informative.

[@bigtedshome]

Thanks for the great feedback 🙂

[@krissander1]

Excellent video, I just swapped the fluorescent lights in our kitchen, it was so easy took about 20mins

[@bigtedshome]

Thanks. I'm glad you found the video helpful 🙂

[@krissander1]

@@bigtedshome I can see what you mean about those connectors.

[@NigelAinscoe]

Thanks for this video 💚 It enabled me to change my own unit with hardly any fuss. I also went the old school connector block route. Feels more secure.

[@bigtedshome]

Thanks Nigel. There's nothing wrong with old school 🙂

[@emilyl3647]

Thanks for the very useful video. I have just managed to change my garage light successfully. 👍

[@bigtedshome]

I'm glad you found the video helpful 🙂

[@pacificamnesia]

This video described the job i needed to do exactly. Simple step by step made it so easy. Thank you for producing it and making it so simple.

[@bigtedshome]

Thanks for the great feedback. I'm glad you found it useful 🙂

[@pacificamnesia]

@@bigtedshome I even had the old school red / black wiring, it was like you had made it just for me 😁

[@bigtedshome]

@@pacificamnesia 😁

[@shaun30-3-mg9zs]

No Earth sleeving on the connecting block, I am going to change mine in the garage and workshop 7 ,5ft single's and 3 5ft twin , good video

[@bigtedshome]

Thanks Shaun. You are right about the Earth sleeving but the sleeving is only used for identification and it's obvious which is the Earth wire.

[@faycharles1206]

Your are right about the wire grips in the housing on that model, they are useless. I found in the kitchen that I had to temporarily suspend the new unit from the ceiling using screws and string in order to have free two hands free to feed the wires in. I didn't want to trust that one clip would take the weight.

[@bigtedshome]

That sounds like fun 😂 Hope you got there in the end

[@steviexup]

Great video. I have a normal BC 150w lamp in my loft and I’m just going to replace it with an LED tube. One question: how would I join more than 1 tube together? Thanks

[@bigtedshome]

Thanks Steve. This explains how to add extra fittings: www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/viewtopic.php?t=90093

[@cozzyinternet4706]

brilliant!! 👌 cheers for sharing!! 👍😃

[@bigtedshome]

Thanks Cozzy 🙂

[@nicholaswebb8418]

Can you not use the old casing when converting from a fluorescent tube to led?

[@bigtedshome]

Yes, if you use the correct type of led tube and you can find one that matches the size and output of your old fitting. This might help: www.any-lamp.co.uk/blog/replace-your-t8-fluorescent-tubes-with-starter-led-tubes-em-conventional-ballast

[@nicholaswebb8418]

@@bigtedshome Thanks. The reason I ask is my single strip fluorescent tube went today, I just want to swap out the old fluorescent with a new led. I went to B&Q and they said that fitting an led tube may or may not work with my current casing. Just find it odd why it might not work

[@bigtedshome]

@nicholaswebb8418 Fluorescent lights are quite complex. They contain extra components which alter the current and voltage.

[@nicholaswebb8418]

@@bigtedshome ok, thanks again

[@daliborwarburton7103]

Really helpful - thank you

[@bigtedshome]

Thanks, I'm glad you found it useful 🙂

[@markwilkinson6871]

That's is a Fitzgerald 8ft 100w t12 fluorescent tube light fitting and the starter type is 70-75-85-100w 240v it's runs off 100w choke ballast

[@bigtedshome]

Thanks Mark 👍

[@GiggleBytes2011]

I haven't watched it yet, but i know it's gonna be a good video. Thanks for the great upload!

[@bigtedshome]

Thanks for the psychic feedback 🔮 😁

[@SupaSeb09]

Hi I was wondering if it's possible to wire a connection directly from the mains plug to the batten bulb. I have an office which I rent and I don't have access to the raw wiring only to mains socket.

[@bigtedshome]

I've not tried it but I don't see why not. Alternatively, amazon sell a 2.8 m (9ft) switched adapter for Sundertech battens (which they also sell) here: amzn.to/3RfdLdx

[@brightspark4817]

why havent you put green and yellow earth sleeving on the wire

[@arcanedefiance]

if you wanted to add two strips instead of just one would you just run an additional wire from light to light?

[@bigtedshome]

That's how they are connected in my garage.

[@bigtedshome]

You can get some led battens which link together.

[@gary304]

Misleading I wanted to put the new tube into the old fitting but you cabtvwaist it twist it

[@Bluebear1873]

I need to replace my old fluorescent tube fitting with a new LED batten light. My old fluorescent light has the feed cable (twin core and earth) from the consumer unit going into it, and also cable (twin core and earth) from my 1 gang 1 way switch. In your video it shows the power supply cable going into the light fitting, but where is the cable for the switch?

[@bigtedshome]

The cable for the switch is connected to a junction box between the consumer unit and the light fittings (the one in the video is the last of 3 controlled by the same switch). This link explains the wiring www.sparkyfacts.co.uk/Wiring-Diagrams-Simple-Lighting-Circuit.php

[@adamfaruga899]

Was that a Fitzgerald 8ft fluorescent fitting?

[@bigtedshome]

It was a Fitzgerald fitting. Not sure about the length as I'm not at home at the moment.

[@Impunity0]

Mine doesn’t have a starter

[@bigtedshome]

Neither does mine. LED battens don't need a starter.

[@craigleah3597]

my friend has an old style 5 foot fluorescent with 2 ! 1.5mm wires to it.. Its a single light. Why 2 wires????

[@bigtedshome]

It sounds like one is coming from the consumer unit and the other from the switch. The first reply on this thread explains how this works: www.diynot.com/diy/threads/two-cables-from-ceiling-light-socket.449202/

[@truefoa]

No safe isolation ☹. Please get a voltage detector and use it, there not expensive and make sure the circuit you are working on is safe to work on. This is for everyone who wants to do this in their own home.

[@shaungilmartin1505]

easier ito joists than a kitchen ceiling

[@bigtedshome]

It is but that was the job I was doing at the time. The battens are light so won't pull your ceiling down. Using a stud detector should help you find the joists in the ceiling and stop you drilling through the wiring.

[@shanesaul7564]

It got the Covid 19 virus lol

[@mikedelta1679]

. Not Cost Effective in My Book. You'd get Many More Lumens for Your Buck With a 24V weatherproof LED Driver, and a Few Metres of LED Strip. .

[@f32440i]

Made in China 😂

[@bigtedshome]

Most electrical/electronic goods are made in China now.

[@jmdds]

I cannot see the reason to replace the terminal blocks with screw types otherwise they would have been banned.I have tested them thousands of time and they are 100% safe .

[@bigtedshome]

Thanks for commenting John. I agree, the clip terminals are safe. It's just personal preference. I find the clips infuriatingly fiddly and difficult to use and the screw down terminal blocks to be more user friendly.