How To Replace A Water Pump PT2 | Fan Clutch / Water Pump Removal 2003 Ford F-150 5.4L 2V TRITON

[@miguelmendez4690]

thank you my friend from NJ GOD bless you and your family

[@nativewear23]

Helped me a lot!!!

[@philipmartinez7537]

Thank you for your video sir

[@leviirey7184]

nice video!

[@KNKRNR]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@Yophillips3272]

I have a 2009 there's not enough room to fit a pipe wrench on, theres some weird bracket on the nut. Ugh

[@KNKRNR]

If that's the case you will need the skinny fan clutch tool. You might be able to rent this tool from the auto parts store. /K&K

[@Yophillips3272]

@@KNKRNR I got it after struggling for hours, I just gave up and used a dremel to cut the nut in half. I already broke the sensor thing apparently it's an electronic fan clutch and they are expensive like $250+ I ordered one from rockauto for $175 what a pain in the @.

[@colinmoore68]

Enjoyed your Pt 1 & 2 videos, I appreciate not cutting down on the main struggles with removing parts and through explanations at each stage. I have a 2003 5.4L Expedition with 200K miles and as the original owner, know the water pump has not been changed. The current issue(s) I am having with the cooling system, the temperature spikes for a few seconds after several minutes driving and I wonder if this is an indication that the thermostat could be sticking, that I have replaced a few times. I was losing some coolant which I discovered was coming from the control valve as part of the heating hoses, and I just replaced that which has worked so far (2 days ago) I have released the pressure built up in the reservoir tank a couple of times since, if it continues is it an indication of another leak somewhere in the system? When the level was lower from losing coolant, it always had a lot of air pressure in the reservoir. I also confess to using the wrong coolant for the last 10 years when I took over doing my own maintenance and minor repairs, thanks to people like you on youtube. Is there a part 3 of this series?

[@KNKRNR]

Have you replaced the pressure cap with OEM part from Ford? Those pressure caps should be changed every time you do a cooling system service. Its normal to have a positive pressure of 13 to 15 PSI when hot. The coolant level in the degass tank dictates the amount of pressure the cooling system builds. In the rest of this series (which has 11 parts) we will go through what is normal operations with this cooling system. At the end of each video there is a link to the next video in the series. Please click on the link below for part 3. Part 3 kzbin.info/www/bejne/e36QpoGJl6aHrNU /K&K

[@colinmoore68]

@@KNKRNR I will get a new cap, never been replaced. Any thoughts on the temporary spike in temperature? I suspect the thermostat sticking in some way, so far it corrects itself within a few seconds, anything else that would cause it to behave in such a way?

[@KNKRNR]

@@colinmoore68 On Ford engines we use the OEM Ford thermostats only because after market tend to act up. The temp spike is one of three possible issues; 1 thermostats opens late then stays open at normal operating temperature, 2 the radiator may have a partial clog that opens after hot coolant pushes through, 3 the vent cap isn't venting during warm up till pressure reached well over 16-21 PSI. For coolant to move freely the pressure cap must vent some air pressure to not cause a bottleneck in the system. The engine should reach 204F then drop to 186F the run between 186F to 203F avg of 195F. The temp gauge shouldn't move that much during normal thermostat cycling. Try changing the pressure cap before moving on to other issues. Pressure cap issues can cause some strange issues. /K&K

[@colinmoore68]

@@KNKRNR Perfect, I have ordered a Motorcraft pressure cap, much appreciated. I will be checking out more of your videos on the 03 Triton

[@EATSLEEPFARM]

I know this is a Ford but I have a 1998 Chevy Tahoe with a 5.7 that I could use some help/advice on. It’s a crank no start. After about 2 seconds of cranking it acts like it builds a lot more compression then usual and makes a “ping” sound. What could be causing this? Any guesses? Thanks

[@KNKRNR]

The ping would be a lean fire start so lack of fuel pressure or a possible vacuum leak. If the engine has been running rich for any reason for a period of time carbon build up in the cylinders would increased the compression ratio which could cause a compression fire (ping) like a diesel engine vs a control spark firing event. With the 1996-99 Vortec's you need to look at the Fuel Trims to see if the engine is running lean or rich during start up, warm up, and normal operating temperatures. The fuel injection system is problematic after they age. These engine its not uncommon to hear a spark knock at start up from time to time but it shouldn't be every time it starts. Normally this happens during a hot summer day after the engine has warmed up, not during a first or cold start of the day. Try changing where you get gas and see if the ping still happens or changes in tone. You can try using a tank of 89 octane fuel and see if the ping changes. Higher octane fuels slow the burn rate down and this can stop pinging. Not all gas station use the same blends in their fuels and this alone can cause engines to ping at start up. If changing where you get gas changes nothing then further diagnosis of the fuel system or ignition system will need to be investigated with a scan tool to find the cause. /K&K

[@EATSLEEPFARM]

@@KNKRNR for one thank you so much for the detailed reply!! That’s awesome. The only thing is the truck is a crank no start so I can’t look at trims. So your thinking the ping is coming from a dry fire? It does have two codes “c0472 - steering handwheel speed sensor signal v low” and a “c0503 steering control circuit low”. The first one is in the passlock module but the security lights not on. The second is in the EVO.Is it possible it’s killing the injectors?If so how can I check if the fuel injectors are firing? It’s spider injection. We drove the truck parked it that night and came out the next morning to it being a no start. The day prior it got ran really low on gas. It was filled at the station and fired up no problem when we left. Thank you again for your help. Subscribed👍

[@KNKRNR]

@@EATSLEEPFARM The passlock issues can cause a crank no start as the ECU shuts down the fuel system as part of the VATS (Vehicle Anti Theft System.) The spider injection can leak fuel into the cylinder and fire off for a brief cycle and cause a dry fire event (ping). Definitely need to get any passlock issue fixed first before you can diagnosis anything further. Most of the newer GM's made after 1996 they use a lot of common grounds for multiple systems so is it possible the C0472, CO503 could cause other driviablity issue sure, as it ties into the main engine harness feeding back to the engine compartment mounted ECM. Before you replace any parts I would check the wiring harnesses for shorts from the power steering pump where the EVO pump solenoid sit back to the ECU. A simple cut in a ground or positive wire can cause a host of issues. The wiring harnesses in these trucks are not as robust as they used to be. 1998 used the ECU to control every function from PASSLOCK, FUEL, IGN, 4WD, EVO, and transmission to name a few. Hopefully you can find a simple short(s) in the harness and its just an easy wire fix from there on out. /K&K

[@EATSLEEPFARM]

@@KNKRNR I will start there for sure. Again thank you,thank you thank you!!

[@zachary9852]

Thank you so much same truck as you and same problem

[@BaRfLy0000]

Who beat the crap out of the pump?

[@KNKRNR]

The owner told us "he had his brother try to remove it before he brought it to us." It did take me an hour to get it to break loose as the rust from the engine seized the pump in place. /K&K