How to Replace Acura TSX Clutch Slave & Master Cylinder. Part 2.

** UPDATE TO THIS VIDEO... Upon reviewing this video, I just realized we could of just pulled off the pin that holds the 17mm nut where the 10mm clutch line connects on the Clutch Master Cylinder instead of bending the clutch line as we did in this video to replace the Clutch Master Cylinder. **
Acura TSX Clutch Slave & Master Cylinder Replacement with OEM Honda Parts. This is video is Part 2. Replacing the Clutch Master Cylinder Honda OEM Part number: 46920-S7A-A05
** OEM HONDA GENUINE PARTS RECOMMENDED **
1. Clutch Master Cylinder - ebay.us/izZLRJ
2. Honda OEM brake fluid - ebay.us/clfSZw
3. Makita Ratchet - ebay.us/KMpfJI
4. Icon 800 Lumen LED - ebay.us/oKMcxP
Follow us on:
Instagram: / jsrebuilds
Please Like, Comment, Subscribe and share this video.
Thank you for watching and your support.
DISCLAIMER:
jsRebuilds videos are for educational and entertainment purposes. We can not guarantee the modifications performed in the video are legal in your locality. Do not do any modifications to your vehicle that will void your warranty or in any way violate your local laws. We assume no liability for property damage or injury as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use the information provided at your own risk & always do your own research for your applications.
When you click links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

[@geoken2]

I just did this. I started following the process of removing everything so I could get the strut bar off - but hit a really stubborn wiring harness. So I started to look at if the strut bar really needs to come off. In the end I left it on. Instead I removed the airbox so I could push the fuse box further. I found this to be a lot better. It doesn’t seem to make much sense removing the strut bar because you need to do all the work under the brake cylinder/reservoir anyway. I would recommend anyone to skip that part. It’s probably the most time consuming part of the job - and on top of that, with the age of these cars you’re likely going to break a few clips when removing the wiper cowl. So even if you finish the same day, you might be waiting a couple days to get the clips needed to re-assemble.

[@jsrebuilds3951]

Thank you for your input and sharing anything that can help us with the process. This definitely wasn't an easy process.

[@FRUIT164]

You can unclip the clutch hardline up until the soft line. This allows for a lot more play in the hardline section that attaches to the CMC. If you do this you don’t need to bend the hardline. I found this out after reading the FSM.

[@jsrebuilds3951]

Thank you Jacob Kolody for the suggestion.

[@davidk739]

Your videos are amazingly detailed. Hope to see more TSX maintenance and repair.

[@jsrebuilds3951]

Thank you David K, that means a lot and I appreciate the support.

[@joserosas7975]

@@jsrebuilds3951 hey which way do you loosen the valve so you can bleed . Down towards the ground or up towards the engine ! Not sure if you can help ? Thanks I’m advance

[@jsrebuilds3951]

@@joserosas7975 left to loose, right to tight

[@joserosas7975]

@@jsrebuilds3951 very bad with that tbh … turning left would mean pull the wrench 8m upward correct ? I’m stuck on that part , the rest of your video really helped ❤️👌

[@jsrebuilds3951]

@@joserosas7975 turn towards your left hand

[@titosaprissa1918]

Keep making tsx videos, thats why i subscribed thanks

[@jsrebuilds3951]

Thank you for the feedback @Tito Saprissa.

[@TheReapersSon]

Great video. I wish I could find one for removing the whole clutch!

[@jsrebuilds3951]

Thank you @TheReapersSon, I appreciate the comment. The clutch was replaced awhile back, wish we had it on video. We will try to get more videos in the future.

[@sew.what.vanessa]

Very thorough video. Thank you!

[@MrSmokedout1234]

Thanks you for clear instructions

[@jsrebuilds3951]

Your welcome JDM rhd, if you have any other suggestions for our videos please let us know. Thank you for your support friend.

[@kerron_]

Bench prime the master cylinder before installing. Piston side tilted 45 degrees downwards to get any air out of the cylinder

[@jsrebuilds3951]

Thank you very much for the extra help @kerronmanwaring6694

[@FRUIT164]

It’s also a good idea to bench bleed the CMC. I didn’t bench bleed the CMC my first time and the small amount of air in the system coupled with cold temperatures ruined my new CMC after 6 months.

[@jsrebuilds3951]

Thank you the tip @ Jacob Kolody.

[@JendyVisionary]

What’s/how do you bench bleed? Is there a video you know of that u can refer me to or an article or something?

[@FRUIT164]

@@JendyVisionary you fill the CMC with fluid before you put it in the car. Once you have the old CMC out of the car attach the reservoir to the new CMC, fill the reservoir and slowly pump the CMC piston by hand while slightly rotating it to try and get all the air out. After getting out as much air as possible reinstall the new CMC with the reservoir attached. Next you're gonna want to bleed the whole system normally. This will make normal bleeding much easier.

[@JendyVisionary]

@@FRUIT164 I have mine installed already and I didn’t do this. I hope it doesn’t go out on me bc of the reason you said. Lets hope and pray. If I do have to replace I’ll make sure to do this next time

[@FRUIT164]

@@JendyVisionary You should be good, do you hear clicking when you push in the clutch?

[@27ecobeast]

I forgot how, but when I did mine back in 2016, I didn’t have to take the strut bar off, I did pop off the U clip while the CMC still on the car

[@jsrebuilds3951]

Yes your right, I did mention that you can remove the C clip in the description and in the video after the fact I did all that work.

[@FRUIT164]

Do an Axle replacement video please

[@jsrebuilds3951]

We will try @Jacob Kolody, thank your comments. That is on the list but OEM CV's are $500 a piece.

[@jsrebuilds3951]

Final got a video on an axle, I know its late but we final got a chance to film one.

[@FRUIT164]

@@jsrebuilds3951 sweet!

[@heero3578]

not bad. gotta do this shit this weekend & am not looking forward 2 it. already knew this was gonna b a bitch so i thought I'd look 4 any tips to make life a bit easier good job!!

[@jsrebuilds3951]

Thank you for the comment @Heero357. Just remember the tip on pulling the U shape pin to remove the clutch line from the Clutch Master Cylinder so you don't have to bend your lines like we did.

[@Tindc56k]

What did you do to change your tan interior carpet to black interior?

[@jsrebuilds3951]

We pulled black interior and carpet from another OEM TSX at the salvage yard and transferred it. Still need black seats to match.

[@danielkuoch136]

You’re a life saver! I know it’s going to be a bitch to get to, I’m 6ft and have big hands. Will tackle this tomorrow since I have time lol Liked and subscribed for sure

[@jsrebuilds3951]

Thank you @Daniel Kuoch. I hope this helps and if you any questions let me know.

[@smlapointe2003]

Is this a similar procedure to the Honda s as well?

[@jsrebuilds3951]

On other Honda's the procedure would be similar. Removing the clutch master cylinder and bleeding the clutch system.

[@smlapointe2003]

@@jsrebuilds3951 thanks!

[@prcc8793]

You can use the em2 civic master cylinder..100%better than the stock rsx .and without the triangle. I upgrade my 05rsx type s with it..no grinding gears at high RPM.keep it up

[@jsrebuilds3951]

Thank you for information. I didn't know that.

[@kerron_]

Replace the hydraulic lines with steel braided much easier better performance

[@jsrebuilds3951]

Thank you the advice @kerronmanwaring6694

[@dog210christian]

How long does this whole process take? For a beginnier.

[@jsrebuilds3951]

For Beginners, this may take up to 4 - 5 hours. Take your time and take lots of pictures how things go back. We find that helps.

[@ChristianLikesFootball]

Could you drain the reservoir and remove the hose that connects to the CMC without the need to remove the reservoir?

[@jsrebuilds3951]

I believe you can.

[@joserosas7975]

Does anyone know which way to open the valve ? Twist towards ground or up towards the engine ?

[@ChristianLikesFootball]

The pin that you referenced @6:36 if you remove this pin and remove the clutch line off the cmc, you can take out the cmc and the line as two separate items? What happens when you put back the cmc with the clutch line installed onto the cmc, would not not bend the clutch line as you put it back? Could you assemble the clutch line after you put back the cmc separately?

[@jsrebuilds3951]

I believe yes you can separate the 2 items and yes you can put back it separately without bending the clutch line.

[@ChristianLikesFootball]

@@jsrebuilds3951 Sorry to ask again. What is the reason to remove the pin while the cmc is still in the car? because the clutch line is not held by the pin.

[@jsrebuilds3951]

@@ChristianLikesFootball If you go to @3:33 you will see that the clutch hard line is connected to the fitting that was taken out when the pin was pulled out. So in the video you can see us removing the clutch hard line with the wrench's which is not necessary as seen in video just by removing pin instead.

[@ChristianLikesFootball]

@@jsrebuilds3951 Yes so the fitting that the pin holds into place gets re-used in the new cmc. Can the clutch hard line remain in the fitting because when you removed the pin, the fitting just get pulled out? If so, it save you from using the 10mm and 17mm.

[@zaeeke]

what’s a reasonable price for a shop to do this job? My clutch fluid black and clutch feeling spongy and trouble disengaging.

[@jsrebuilds3951]

Idk a reason price for this job because I don't own the mechanics software to calculate the labor rates plus I don't know what your issues are with your car. You need to call around and get quotes for your issue and have the shops look at it.

[@jonastrujillo5335]

Can anyone tell me what it can be if the clutch fluid is pushed back in to the pump system when i release the fork back on to the pin from the slave cylinder after bleeding the system?

[@jsrebuilds3951]

Have you bleed your system like this in the video? kzbin.info/www/bejne/mamup6CDfMiiiaM

[@donaldcutler2072]

My big bolt that first goes into the clutch master cylinder is now leaking , I put it in and put the u joint back in and then the brake line into it but it’s leaking out from the big bolt so I have air in my system anyone have this problem when switching the 17mm bolt to the new master cylinder ??

[@jsrebuilds3951]

We didn't have any problems with ours. You might want to check if yours is seated correctly and I'm not sure if there is o-ring but you may want to check for that as well.

[@charliecruz662]

This job is a pain in the fucking ass

[@jsrebuilds3951]

We agree with you @Charlie Cruz. I mention in the video, if you can pop the U pin from the master slave cylinder, it will make that job much easier instead of doing what we did but even the clutch pedal is such a tight space that makes it hard also. I hope this video gave you some better insight to tackle the job.

[@charliecruz662]

jsRebuilds Yeah i saw that part too late , i had already taken it out the hard way haha. But i have a question. When i took the old master cylinder off, the rod on it had no tension at all. The new one had tension even when it wasnt on the car yet. Does that mean that the master cylinder was bad ?

[@jsrebuilds3951]

@@charliecruz662 Yes it should have tension and should spring back out. I believe it is spring loaded for the tension. Also another way to tell if its going bad if it was leaking at the rod.

[@charliecruz662]

jsRebuilds thanks alot! You were a big help!

[@jsrebuilds3951]

@@charliecruz662 Your welcome friend.