How to Replace an ESIM Module (P0456 Code) on a 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee

[@chilangochongo6487]

Bro, I don't know s**t about cars, but I did it man. I appreciate your thorough, yet simple to follow video...changing lives brother.

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@chilangochongo6487 - Thanks for the feedback, really appreciate it and glad you found the video useful! Hopefully saved you some time and money at the dealership to! Thanks for watching!

[@RLMonti]

Five stars for this video! I replaced using the same Duralast part listed on a 2018 Dodge Durango which is identical in terms of layout. Less than a half hour to complete for $35 and sales tax. Thank you. Job well done!

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@RLMonti - Awesome! So glad you found the video useful! I was quote $395 to switch this out at the dealership... so glad I worked out how to do it myself, and in turn help others out as well. And thank you for watching, I really appreciate it!

[@lfree4427]

How do you reset the codes

[@incognitus77]

First of all I don't leave comments. This might be my first. Second, this video was perfect. Just the right amount of information along with the right amount of visual reference. The only thing the video doesn't really go over (but I somewhat found in the comments) is the 3 fasteners. I was able to get 2 of the 3 types off without issue. What appears to be a rivet style fastener I was not able to remove without breaking. I think you can get 30 of these for $8 so maybe buy a pack before performing this fix just in case. I ended up only removing the 2 pop style fasteners and the 10mm bolt along with the one rivet I damaged and I was able to get my hand in there without removing anything else. Successful fix. Code cleared. Thank you for your video!!!!!!

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Thank you so much fro the great feedback, I really appreciate it. I apologize for not being clearer on the removal of the fasteners. I showed the first one which popped out with a trim removal tool. The second I used a socket wrench on, and the third, I was able to get the trim tool underneath and pop out. But like yourself, that pop stud broke for me as well. I already had a bag of replacement fasteners of different sizes as they are handy to have around the garage and replaced it. Pleased to hear that you were able to get to the ESIM module and replace it, and that it's working without issues. Glad that you found the video useful!

[@redraider281]

The plastic rivets (and the general use of three different fasteners here) are kind of a pain. They are one-time-use. I drill out the center to break the stud which releases the back of the rivet, and then it should pull out. A plastic rivet tool and assortment of rivets are available inexpensively from Harbor Freight.

[@studioelb]

Best illustration on KZbin. 5 stars. ⭐️ thank you. 🙏🏼

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@studioelb - Thank you so much for the great feedback, really appreciate it! Glad you found the video useful, and thanks for watching!

[@tomstevenson7940]

Direct, clear, simple. Great work!

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Thank you, I appreciate the feedback and thanks for watching!

[@davidwoo4877]

I agree, this was way informative than the other videos. Kudos!

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@@davidwoo4877 - Thank you very much, that means a lot, appreciate it and thank you for watching!

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@@davidwoo4877 - Thank you! Appreciate it!

[@kylescovill1191]

Perfect video. Thank you very much for this. As others mentioned, you may as well buy a pack of plastic fasteners when you buy the part because, inevitably, you're going to need some new ones. Also, oddly enough, my check engine light didn't go off for like 24+ hours/~200 miles of travel and 6-8 stops (power on and off). Basically, half of a road trip, parked the car for the night and the light was on, woke up in the morning and it was off - super strange but it did take longer than the 25-30 miles that most mentioned below.

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@kylescovill1191 - Yes, you're not wrong about the extra clips, it's always handy to have them on hand for sure! Really glad you found the video useful and thanks for watching, I appreciate it!

[@parker7161]

Perfect video! Not too much random non sense information lol. Just straight to the point

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Thank you very much, appreciate the compliment. Thanks for watching and glad you found it useful!

[@The007luckie]

Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! Perfect video with just the right amount of information.

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@The007luckie - So glad that you found the video useful! Thank you so much for watching, I appreciate it!

[@davidwright9771]

Very good video with clear steps and guidance. In my case after driving for a few miles (25-30) the check engine light went out. Thank you

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Thank you very much, I really appreciate it. Glad you found the video useful and thank you for watching!

[@cicatriz86]

Thanks this is the comment I came looking for!

[@justsomedude5339]

Exactly what I was looking for! Thank you stranger!

[@CUPRADESIGN]

You’re so welcome! Glad it helped you out!

[@jesseaguinaga9483]

Thanks for the awesome demonstration. You saved me a lot money.

[@CUPRADESIGN]

You're welcome, glad you found the video useful! Jeep quoted me $495 for this repair. Part cost me $28 at the time and it took about 15 mins total. Absolutely worth doing yourself! Thanks for watching!

[@MasonSherman-y5r]

Great tutorial, thank you! Replaced the part in about 5 minutes.

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@MasonSherman-y5r - Fantastic, glad to hear it! Glad you found it useful, and thank you for watching!

[@davidstanley1547]

Thank you for this video! You saved me alot of money!

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@davidstanley1547 - You’re welcome! Glad you found the video useful. I decided to record it and do it myself after being quoted $395 by the dealership to replace this $28 sensor!

[@davidstanley1547]

@@CUPRADESIGN The part cost me $20 on Amazon. I kept going back to reference your video while I did the job. Took me less than 30 minutes to complete. The details were very helpful....10mm socket wrench...hold down the tab to unplug....bring the spring tab toward you and turn counter clockwise. Excellent! thank you!

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Awesome! Love hearing that it all worked out great! Thanks again for watching!

[@BaselMurad-g6h]

Thank you for the helpful video. When I pulled out the inner fender liner there was a hose that wasn't connected into anything. I searched to see if it was meant to be inserted into anything but didn't see anything. Do you know if that hose is intended to be like that or what it may be for?

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@BaselMurad-g6h - Thank you for watching, I appreciate it, and I'm glad you found the video useful. I am not sure what that hose might be for. Possibly for venting something, but as you can see in the video, I didn't have any hoses that weren't connected to anything. Maybe your model of Grand Cherokee has some features that ours didn't - this was a 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee Altitude 4x4 version. Sorry I can't be of any more help, I no longer have this vehicle, so I can't go out and look for you to see what it might be.

[@zro2gon]

Awesome video. Just had this code pop up today and this is the first thing ill try.

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@zro2gon - Thanks very much, I appreciate it and thanks for watching. Hope that this solves the issue for you.

[@zro2gon]

@CUPRADESIGN after more inspection, I found the purge hose had a Crack in 2 spots so looks like that was the culprit instead but will still probably replace the esim as it will need to be eventually.

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@@zro2gon - That actually happened to us as well, we needed to replace that hose as well. It was about $65 if I recall correctly.

[@TXnaomip]

You had the best video for this part replacement!!!! So informative Thank you!!!! You saved me so much time and money. 💯💯💯👍👍👍

[@CUPRADESIGN]

You’re so welcome! So glad that it was helpful to you! I appreciate the feedback!

[@Stalker-jf6vs]

very informative your video ,recently I also changed it in my wk2 and the code disappeared the problem is that now that new module produces a loud noise I don't know if it's normal I installed the Dorman 310-219

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Thanks for watching, I appreciate it. I know that our Jeep didn't make any weird noises after replacing the module. You might want to just double check that the 'O' ring is seated properly and didn't get twisted when you rotated the module back in, and also that the Evap Hose is fully reinserted as well. Once I replaced this, I did also have to troubleshoot on top of the engine and found that the main hose from the Evap Purge Valve on top of the engine (under the engine cover) had a split in it, and I had to replace that as well. Hopefully this info helps you troubleshoot your issue.

[@frederickg.6155]

Everything sounds better with a British accent❤ 👍 You sound like my son in law from Nuneaton...

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@frederickg.6155 - Ha! Thanks, I appreciate it! And thanks for watching - not a lot I can do about my accent, I've lived in Texas for 22 years, and still haven't shook it off!

[@mzwalk794]

Excellent video. I’ll be back after I try it myself. Thank you 🙏

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Thank you! Glad you found it useful and hopefully it saves you a few $$$ like it did for me! Jeep was asking $495 for this repair. It takes about 15 mins and the part is less than $30! Good luck!

[@jivepatrol6833]

Good video - very concise and to the point. Thank you!

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Thanks very much, I appreciate the feedback and really glad that it helped you out!

[@cicatriz86]

How long after swapping out can I expect the check engine light to turn off? Like 50 miles or so?

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Typically, after driving 25 to 30 miles the light should go out. However, when I replaced mine, I had another issue. There are 3 things that can go wrong here, the ESIM module, the Purge Valve on top of the engine and the hose that goes from the Purge Valve to the ESIM module. My hose has deteriorated and I had to replace that as well. The part was $65, but it snakes from the Purge Valve behind the engine and down to a connection under the vehicle. So I had the place install it while I was being inspected. Hope that helps.

[@byrons7686]

Great video and thanks for your help. I have one question will the check engine light clear itself or does it need to be reset.

[@CUPRADESIGN]

It’s been almost 2 years since I recorded this, but if I remember correctly, it did take care of itself, and didn’t need to be reset. It just needed to go through a couple of drive cycles before it did reset.

[@byrons7686]

@CUPRADESIGN ok, thanks for your help. Save a lot of money and time.

[@GunnaFlyaway]

Great video, can you tell how to get off the 3rd pin. Do you have to push it in the middle?

[@CUPRADESIGN]

So at 0:21 the one at the top, I believe there is a screwdriver slot in the side of it, put a flat head screwdriver in there and pull down to separate the two. Take out that center pin and then the base can be popped out. The second one is a bolt, you can just unscrew that one. And then the 3 on the right you get a pry tool behind them and just pop them out. Hope that helps you out! Thanks for watching!

[@EZwider33ify]

If I 1 buy this from autozone and 2 screw it up is jeep gonna have a problem with that part ? I just want my auto car starter to work 😂

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@EZwider33ify - Hey there, there isn't much that you can screw up! It really is a simple replacement. The hardest part is removing the wheel lining to get to the ESIM module in the first place. I was quoted $395 by the dealer to replace this part. The part is $28 and it takes like 10 mins to do. Really simple! However, you mention you wanting your auto car starter to work, so I wonder if you are meaning to reference the video I did on replacing the AUX battery here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oHe0iaZsfLmgeNEsi=mYAvTgvq5yrgPyHI If that's the case, then no, Jeep won't mess with you, as all you are doing is replacing a battery like you would in a TV remote. Follow the steps in my video and you'll be fine! Thanks for watching and good luck!

[@manubanuchi]

Fantastic video. Thank you for the help.

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@manubanuchi - Thanks for the feedback, I really appreciate it! Glad you found the video useful!

[@mkerneenjr]

If the O ring is what normally goes bad, do you think it would help if we lube it with Vaseline??

[@CUPRADESIGN]

There is a lot of fine dust and dirt back there. It will hold onto all of that if you coat it in Vaseline, but I’m not here to tell you not to do it. Just my thoughts.

[@dustin9967]

Looks like there are a few plastic rivets for the fender liner? If so, did you install new rivets or substitute something else?

[@CUPRADESIGN]

I tried to keep the OEM ones but ultimately had to purchase some generic ones from Amazon to replace them.

[@santiagodavila1426]

How did you know this part is bad.? I already replace some limes by the engine compartment, and my P0456 is still ON.!

[@CUPRADESIGN]

I had a check engine light and I’m diagnosing it, I read online that this was the most common point of failure so that’s what I switched out first. It was also the cheapest of the three things it could have been! 🤣

[@trentkelly8187]

Great video. I replaced the part in about 10 minutes. However, my check engine light is still on in the code is still coming up. Thoughts?

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Hey Trent, thanks for watching, I appreciate it. I had a similar situation with our Grand Cherokee as well. Go under the hood and take off the engine cover. Right on top of the engine is a purge valve, that connects to the ESIM module you just replaced. Have a look at the hose that connects to it. Ours was all cracked at the point if connects to the valve and it snakes around the back of the engine and it was cracked in a couple of other places along the way. The part is about $65. I had it replaced by the garage that was doing my inspection, as I didn't have time to get it done, and record a video before my inspection was up. If that hose looks ok, then you might have an issue with the purge valve itself. But I would check that hose first. Hope that helps you.

[@mkerneenjr]

Sometimes you have to drive it a couple miles for the code to clear.

[@TheStabbyMedic]

Is this a common issue with the 2018s? Because the other one is the purge valve and I already had that done awhile ago.

[@CUPRADESIGN]

There are 3 common issues, one being the ESIM module, one being the purge valve and one being the hose from the purge valve down the back of the engine. I had to replace my hose down the back of the engine as well from the purge valve as it had corroded. It was about $65. Hope that helps.

[@TheStabbyMedic]

I would say yes. I had mine done awhile ago as well, and now I have the ESIM issue.

[@cristiangiovanni75]

excellent video my friend

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Thank you very much, I appreciate it. Thanks for watching!

[@majikman7355]

So by not replacing this then one is basically letting vapor into the air?

[@CUPRADESIGN]

What the ESIM does is help the EVAP system determine if there is a leak in the system or not. If you don’t replace it, small amounts of vapor will escape and you will still have a check engine light. If you remove it completely then you will be releasing vapor but the ESIM module is behind the wheel arch liner, so more potential for those vapors to enter the cabin. It’s a $28 part and takes 10 mins to install.

[@chadoodle7928]

I bought a Dorman replacement ESIM for my 2007 Jeep wk however the original OE ESIM has the weight inside that moves up and down, the dorman replacement doesn’t not have this weight. Is that an issue?

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Unfortunately I don’t have an answer for you, the part I replaced was for a 2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee, there is quite the difference between the two models and if memory serves me correctly you have a 3rd Gen Grand Cherokee and ours was a 4th Gen Grand Cherokee so they have different underpinnings. Sorry I can’t be more help.

[@chadoodle7928]

@@CUPRADESIGN no worries. I had a P0456 code, after changing the gas cap, ESIM, and vapor canister I now have a P0452 code. Very annoying! Lol

[@missgarcia1085]

Good job! Thanks this helps

[@CUPRADESIGN]

You’re welcome! Glad you found the video useful!

[@CodyCrenshaw213]

Excellent video. Thank you! How common is it for the code to clear immediately vs driving around? I’ve swapped parts and added fuel but still am getting same code. Just curious if I need to drive 20-30 miles before I see it clear like one other comment said.

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Hey @CodyCrenshaw213 - As I understand it, driving around for a little bit, building up the pressure and through flow to the ESIM module should clear the code. Now when I had the issues with mine, I ended up having another problem. There are 3 things that can go wrong with the EVAP system. The ESIM module is one of them, the purge valve for the EVAP system and the hoses that go between the purge valve and the ESIM module. As it turns out, my EVAP hose between the purge valve and the ESIM module had hardened and cracked, so I had to replace that as well. That part was about $65 but it was a pain to replace as you have to feed it around the back of the engine from the purge valve. So maybe you can have a look at that, it's very obvious. If you take off the engine cover, the purge valve is on top of the engine, to the left hand side. There is a hose that comes out of that and feeds all the way around and down behind the engine with several 90º bends in it. That may be your issue too if the light doesn't go out. Hope that helps. And thanks for watching, I really appreciate it!

[@CodyCrenshaw213]

Coming back to reply this was the solution. It took about 75 miles and a few days of driving for the light to go off but it did. Thank you!!

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Awesome! So glad that worked out for you! And a much cheaper option than going to the dealership! Thanks for watching!

[@slknight8590]

Awesome vid man, is there anyway to test my oem esim? My car is shooting this code but I’m living a budget life lol. Don’t want to bug parts if it won’t fix it :/

[@CUPRADESIGN]

So the reason I found out that mine could be the issue was that I had a check engine light, I went to AutoZone and ran a diagnostic test. The OBDII reader said that I had a small EVAP leak and that the ESIM module was 'more than likely' the culprit. (It can be 3 main things, the ESIM module, the Purge Valve or the Purge Hose). The module was $32 at AutoZone. I still had a check engine light after replacing this module. After further investigation, I took off the engine cover, and looked at the purge valve right there on top of the engine. The hose that connects to it on the back was perished and cracked in several places. I looked it up online, it's appears to be a dealer only part. It cost me $65 for the hose, and I replaced it. I had the check engine light reset and it hasn't come back on since, and passed inspection, so it's most likely in my instance, that the PURGE HOSE was to blame for my CEL, but it didn't hurt to change out the ESIM module as they are a known weakness. Hope that helps.

[@willdisbrow9737]

I’ve replaced that and my purge valve hose. If the check engine light comes on again what do you recommend doing?

[@CUPRADESIGN]

So, when I was researching this, there were three key components. The easiest to replace was the ESIM module. Next was the purge valve hose. And then the third was the purge valve itself. If that fails then there may be an issue between the rear of the engine and the ESIM module out back. I am not a mechanic, but those are the 3 key components and then the actual line from that rear of the engine and the ESIM module that I realswarched. Hope that helps you out.

[@willdisbrow9737]

Has your check engine light came back on after changing the ESIM module and hose?

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@@willdisbrow9737 No it hasn’t, and it’s been over a year now since I replaced both. I’ve had two inspections done since then too.

[@sebastianreyes1165]

Im no mechanic but it looks easy enough. Only challenege would be to remove the rivets from the liner. Any advice?

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Yes, it's really easy, all you need is a little pry tool. They are really cheap. Here's a highly rated one with almost 20,000 reviews on Amazon: amzn.to/3HTHPXj Once you have that, you can easily pop them out. Hope that helps.

[@mjsepilp]

Great vid! Thanks!

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Thanks very much, I appreciate it. Glad you found it useful!

[@DeRochaJ]

Great video 👍👍 Thank you for sharing

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Thanks for the feedback John, I appreciate it, and glad that you found it useful!

[@steezy7460]

Is this something that would cause the Jeep to stop in the middle of the road?

[@CUPRADESIGN]

No, it shouldn’t, I don’t believe so. It would just throw a warning light on the dash that there is an issue with the EVAP system (check engine light would come on). We were able to drive while diagnosing this issue.

[@mortonbeard2240]

Will the check engine light go off when the new one is installed?

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Thanks for the question. That all depends if that is the main cause. There are 3 parts to the problem here. The ESIM module, the purge valve itself and then the purge valve hose. I ended up having to replace the purge valve hose as well and that took care of the problem. There were cracks in the purge valve hose, it had perished over time. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@mortonbeard2240 - As long as this is the only issue, then the check engine light should go off. If it doesn't then you might have an issue with your purge valve on top of the engine, or the purge valve hose that attaches to the purge valve. We also had a bad purge valve hose on our Jeep Grand Cherokee as well. Hope that helps.

[@WingRiderBob]

Great video. Do you have a part number for the hose? My dealer cannot find it and mine is cracked. Thank You.

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Unfortunately, I don't. I had a quick look online, but not sure which is the right hose for that application. I had to replace the Purge Valve hose at the same time, that runs behind the engine from the purge valve, as it had cracked in several places, so I feel your pain. Sorry I could be more help. Wonder if you could find a similar hose and create a sleeve from it using it to go around your existing hose. I did find this: shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-help-evap-emission-hose-46032/10039395-p?product_channel=local&store=7889&adtype=pla&product_channel=local&store_code=7889&gclid=CjwKCAjwqauVBhBGEiwAXOepkSYyMt1a8iLFkxDxK0gAFWFEjOYlRIYlNmyKUoFqk-_9c7g8NuDODBoCZs4QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Or this: www.ebay.com/itm/324763211415?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1QwLeyDXETxe96ITMxzU0zA74&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=324763211415&targetid=1644837434523&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9027282&poi=&campaignid=16743749222&mkgroupid=138744546207&rlsatarget=pla-1644837434523&abcId=9300842&merchantid=101509763&gclid=CjwKCAjwqauVBhBGEiwAXOepkc6YbaJuezjufS4GpNPwXWCPg7VD1TPLzmyOd22F16GeQEiSvgmNZRoCF10QAvD_BwE

[@WingRiderBob]

@@CUPRADESIGN OK, thanks

[@natewoodard34]

Great vid. Concise and well produced. Question: do you need to put any grease or anything on that o-ring or just put it in there dry?

[@CUPRADESIGN]

I did not put any grease in there being as the o ring is sealing the unit. Here is some great info on what the ESIM module does. www.bwdbrand.com/en/products/emission-controls/evap-components/esim#:~:text=First%2C%20when%20the%20vehicle%20is,and%20then%20passes%20the%20test. I wouldn’t put grease on it.

[@ventacasaciudadjardincali1321]

Hello, someone please help me , i removed the esim from a 2015 jeep srt8 and as soon as i removed it i noticed that it sounds like having loose stufe inside, like loose springs and/or screws, is that normal? Or it should not sound at all?

[@CUPRADESIGN]

That doesn’t sound normal, so it’s probably good that you’ve removed it to replace it with a new one. If you have removed it to replace it, shake the new one to see if it sounds the same or is silent.

[@KarmaKookie5]

Tysm! How long did this take?

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Thank you! It literally takes about 15 mins to replace. That’s it. Good luck!

[@richarddegrauw2213]

Awesome video.

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Thanks very much, I appreciate it. Glad you found it useful! Good luck!

[@PamelaaChu]

What about the check engine light? It tuned off. ???

[@CUPRADESIGN]

It’s been a while since I replaced that module but if I recall, the check engine did turn off after that. However, if it didn’t, you can have it reset or you can reset it yourself with and OBDII reader.

[@PamelaaChu]

@@CUPRADESIGN ty

[@jasonbarnes2636]

I can’t believe they have two different kind of clips and a screw to hold that liner.

[@CUPRADESIGN]

I know right, so annoying. And in my case one on each side broke so I had to order new ones! Hope you found the video useful tho! Thanks for watching!

[@rickinsa40]

so does the code disappear after you fix, on its own ? or do you have to clear it with a scan tool?

[@CUPRADESIGN]

I don’t have a definitive answer for you, as I ended up having an issue with my purge hose as well, I ended up having to replace that as well as it was perished. I had the code reset after doing that. However with the ESIM Module, I would have thought that it would reset itself once there is no longer a leak, but don’t quote me on it, as I had the additional issue.

[@TXnaomip]

@@CUPRADESIGN I took off my battery connectors and waiting about 30 seconds before putting them back on, to restart the check engine light.... and after this part swap, it never came back on.... its been a week

[@TXnaomip]

@@CUPRADESIGN did you make a video when you re-did the hose?

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@@TXnaomip That's awesome! So pleased that you were able to switch it out and fix it yourself!

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@@TXnaomip Unfortunately, I didn't - I was heading out of town so I had a local shop put it on for $60. However, if it ever happens again, I will!

[@RichardBluitt-j2k]

Does this apply for a 2017 also

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@RichardBluitt-j2k - The 2018 was a refresh year for the Grand Cherokee, so it had a new grill and new rear end treatment, but I believe fundamentally it is the same vehicle underneath as the 2017 models, so I don't see why it would be an issue at all.

[@mblanton]

Has anyone had issues where you can’t turn upon replacement to get it to click in just right?

[@CUPRADESIGN]

I’ve not hear of anyone mention that before. I wonder if your new O ring isn’t searing right as you twist it? Thankfully there’s a lot of room in there so at least you can keep any eye on it. Alternatively, these pieces have very loose tolerances so there’s a chance you may have a defective one and it may need to be returned and replaced. Have you eyeballed both of them side by side, the new one and the old one to see if there are any slight differences?

[@lfree4427]

How do you reset the codes

[@TXnaomip]

My AC is making a hissing noise!?!? What do you think it is, make a video plz!! 2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6 liter

[@CUPRADESIGN]

You may be low on freon in the system. Normally when the car starts up, you can hear the system pressurizing and then you don't hear it any more. You may need to have your freon topped up or a leak detection test run on your AC system.

[@timspear6690]

I have p0452 code on my 2018 same fix??

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Unfortunately, no that isn’t the same fix. From what I’ve read, the p0456 code relates to the gas cap, easy fix if you just check that the seal around the gas filler opening is sealing correctly. The other option is the fuel pump sensor in the gas tank. Again, this is from what I’ve read and not from my experience. Hope that helps.

[@timspear6690]

@@CUPRADESIGNended up being p0441 and p0452 purge valve. 5 minutes and 20$ fix 🤘

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@@timspear6690 - Awesome, really glad that it was a quick and easy fix! I ended up recording this video because the dealership wanted $395 to replace this ESIM module. 10 mins and $28 later, I was done! Thanks again for watching, I appreciate it!

[@nicklorenz78]

Thank you!

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@nicklorenz78 - You're welcome, glad you found the video useful! Thanks for watching, appreciate it!

[@nicklorenz78]

@@CUPRADESIGN did mine today and fixed my issue

[@TXnaomip]

did your engine ever make a ticking noise because of this part being coded (p0440) ?

[@CUPRADESIGN]

No it didn't. Ever since replacing this part, and the purge valve hose, we haven't had any more issues with the system at all. Sorry to hear that you're having other challenges with the vehicle.

[@isiahb8833]

How many people had to change this twice with about a years time?

[@CUPRADESIGN]

This was the first time I changed it, after about 3 years of ownership. This is the only time I’ve changed it.

[@bo5388]

What if you don't have any codes on the dash

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@bo5388 - There won't be a code displayed on your dash. The only thing on the dash that would alert you is if you have a check engine light (CEL - Orange Engine Symbol) showing. If that is the case, then you'll either want to grab a code reader (they can be had for cheap: amzn.to/3XEmhI6) or you can go to Autozone and they will read the codes for you and tell you what the code is. If it is a (P0456 code) then you will have an issue with your EVAP system. Now that can occur in 3 places too. The ESIM module, as in this video, at the Purge Valve on top of the engine, and then also the Purge Valve Hose, which runs from the Purge Valve down the back of the engine towards the ESIM module. Hope that helps.

[@كرارالعلاق-د8و]

good like

[@CUPRADESIGN]

Thank you, appreciate it.

[@irishmccabe3365]

Dam, I just pad $490.00 for this job

[@CUPRADESIGN]

@irishmccabe3365 - Sorry to hear that… that’s exactly the reason why I wanted to try it myself. I was quoted $395 by my dealership to change it out and figured it couldn’t be ‘that’ difficult!