How to Replace Belt Tensioner - Honda CRV Accord

Josh takes you step by step through the removal and replacement of the (serpentine/drive) belt tensioner on a 2004 Honda CRV. This video will generally help you with any vehicle but the cars it is specific to are listed below:
Honda CRV ( 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009 )
or
Honda Accord (same engine) ( 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010 ).
Speciality tools needed:
Wrenches
Cheater bar (pipe, etc.)
Inpact wrench (optional)
Long screwdriver/lever
car jack
If you liked this video give us a thumbs up and subscribe to our channel it makes a big difference!
Thanks!
(Belt Tensioner Replace - Honda CRV & Accord)

[@herschalkrustofski]

I did, in fact, remove the idler pulley first and found I did not have to undo the engine mount. The idler is coming off anyway with the tensioner. To get the idler off the new tensioner, I put the tensioner on the engine with the two easy bolts and removed the pulley. Then I put in the harder bolt and replaced the pulley. The torque for the P/S pump and all three bolts on the tensioner was listed at 16 ft/lbs. The pulley is 41 ft/lbs. This is for my 2003 CRV. Thanks for the video!

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

herschalkrustofski Thanks for sharing!

[@3dsman]

Dude in another vid got the lower bolt out by jacking up the front right, removing the tire and partially removing the inner fender skirt. He did have to take two small bolts out to remove the dipstick tube but after that was out of the way the lower bolt was accessible. He didn't remove the fluid reservoir or the power steering pump. I think his way looks easier to be honest with you. Thanks for the video all the same!!

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Sounds like that could work! thanks for sharing!

[@mccc4559]

I have so much respect for you all who have the skills and physical strength to tackle all this on your own. Awesome!!! 🤗✌

[@eloyserratojr8215]

Thanx for the video!!! All the other vids were talking about going under the car and taking all these other parts out. Followed yours and did it in about 45 mins. Thanx again 👍🏼

[@eibronmonde1275]

Nice video! Good to have a guy like you who shares "how to do it video"...more power to you!

[@gmanbang]

Thanks for a great instruction video, I can live with the wind sound on your mic, I think you did a very good hands on demonstration. Many thanks.

[@Sanisfaction]

You sir, deserve way more likes and views! Thank you for this. This makes life so much easier than having to go trough boring shop manuals!! I've got the nasty squeel going on in my '02 CRV. It started out when driving trough big puddles of mud. or just water. got worse and worse kept going for longer.... Now it's constantly there at every RPM. I think it's a bit dull that there is no DECENT splash screen underneath the V to shield these parts especially when you take it off-road a lot. When I'm at it I'm gonna see if i can improvise some shielding underneath and maybe leave that in a reply video here. Just ordered a new belt and tensioner. I'll be fixin' her up as soon as I get my parts in. Once again! Thanks for this video! Kind regards from The Netherlands.

[@seancycle1]

My brother who used to be a mechanic, told me to use a pick and thoroughly clean out the grooves on pulleys like the power steering pulley, because anything caught in the grooves (ex. grit, rocks, etc) create high spots for the belt to ride up on and create premature wear (black rubber deposit streaks or tracks), left from the back side (flat side) of the serpentine belt onto the tensioner pulley. You can see these rubber deposit track on our old tensioner pulley that you pulled off in your video.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Sean Curran that’s great advice. I do usually look the wheels over quickly but I did not highlight in this video. Thanks!

[@65gtotrips]

When doing this exact job, well really the alternator, then decided to do the tensioner while I’m in there; My 1/4” sockets are the absolute hero’s of the day !

[@preservethedead]

The alternator on 2nd gens are a pain in the a$$. I love my crv, but never have I ever spent that long getting to one.

[@alexanderk6888]

Thank you for showing how to remove and re-attaching the engine mount, kind of new to mechanic work on my own vehicles and i was worried about taking it off to reach that difficult bolt on the tensioner.

[@jamesf8783]

Dude thank you! The last mechanic to do this was pissed and it took him a long time to replace the belt. I think I can do this and save at least an hour of labor to try to get the squeal gone.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Awesome James, thanks for the comment!

[@65gtotrips]

Without even looking in the comments, I’m sure someone already mentioned that the Honda manual and tech practice is to relieve tensioner pressure from underneath, as well as using a serpentine belt tool, which even if used only once is a good investment.

[@bostevens236]

instead of removing the engine mount, I took the pulley off the old tensioner to access the bolt on the tensioner. Took off the new pulley on the new tensioner to install the tensioner, then put the pulley back on. No need for an impact gun this way

[@Bmex13]

Bo Stevens what?

[@bostevens236]

Rene Ramirez I changed the old belt tensioner without removing the engine mount.

[@royallhawaii]

Good video Josh. Just what I was looking for so I can fix a friends CR-V.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

+royallhawaii I'm glad It was helpful!

[@RoldanRR00]

Great video and very thorough. My brother was able to get the last bolt off with a swivel and a couple of long extensions. It saved us taking the motor mount off which is a pain.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

That's a great idea if you've got the tools! Thanks for watching!

[@makskk6spm275]

Thank you for great video. It helped me understand how to disassemble. But I made it without removing the engine mount. You was need just remove pulley idler and then got access to third bolt of tensioner. Video is great as I said and like it.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Maks KK6SPM thank you and I’m glad you were able to avoid removing the engine mount!

[@milesfifer171]

Thanks for the vid, you made this process look much easier than others hahaha. I need to do tensioner pulley and A/C clutch also. I'll do both at the same time and put a new belt on wile I have the thing apart.

[@tigersnake72]

I have 2005 Honda Accord and replaced the belt tensioner one bolt is hidden in tight space I used my 1/4 socket and 1/4 wobble extension and i was able to removed it without taking the side engine mount brackets and you don’t have to remove the pulley thank you

[@deseremere]

All, you do not need to remove the engine mount for the tensioner replacement. Just remove the pulley and you get full access to the 3rd bolt. For water pump replacement you may want to remove the mount unless want to deal with crankshaft pulley.

[@brandonslu1]

My tensioner bolt is stripped so this video gives me hope that I can actually get a ratchet to the third bolt. I have changed the engine mount before but still hate to have to remove it again...

[@TranTek]

Great with your hand fitting in tight space and feeling it awesome job !

[@BruceBalistreri]

Such a wonderful video! Explained everything really well, and it's edited well! Great job. Videos like this give me the confidence to DIY

[@juanarroyo5517]

Hello Jake first want to say thank you for your services you video was great like it, it took me a bit more time but it was worth it all came out great, the the below person asking how much does it cost they were asking $150.00 without the part so I went on ebay got the part for US $23.95 and did it myself, very happy with the outcome thanks Jake RGDS Juan

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Juan Arroyo I’m glad it worked out for you!

[@jpocketrocket]

great video,It was very informative and will help me when i change the Tensioner on my 2005 element,Thank you very much

[@jessemixon3135]

Great job sir, you didn’t have to take the front end off the car or turn the car upside down to get to it.

[@groundleaf865]

Great job you made it looks easy!

[@mark23487]

Great video. Good mechanic too! Thanks for sharing!

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Mark Matthews I’m glad you liked it! If you haven’t already subscribe to our Channel, we’re trying to hit 1000!

[@MrJaporter]

Great instructional video . Thanks.... Very helpful and to the point

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

JA Porter thanks for the comment!

[@aqkhoo]

You, my man, make it seem like you have 3 pairs of hands. Bravo, great vid!

[@mr.nobody4900]

Awesome tutorial. A + Rating

[@martinuribecortes7075]

Excelente video gracias 👍 por el tips saludos desde Acapulco

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Thanks, I think!

[@albertopalomares5463]

I replaced my tensioner on my 2004 honda accord with same engine and didn't have to remove the engine mount I was able to get in easy enough

[@condor5635]

Great vid! Mine does not have a power steering reservoir /pump so I think they used just a pulley part sort of identical to the PS one instead - guessing my 2013 CRV has electric power steering. Should make it easier but would like to replace that idler pulley as well (power steering pulley top one) for lack of a better word. I wonder if it just has a bearing or just replace entire part. Thanks for commentating back

[@serferdia]

excellent tutorial

[@jazzbassmc8043]

Very helpfull! thank you very much!

[@anaquiros6559]

Thank you for your services you video was great.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Thank you, I'm glad it helped!

[@mccc4559]

I am your new fan and subscriber. Thank you from the bottom and top of my heart.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Mc Cc you’re welcome! Thank you for the kind comments!😊

[@mccc4559]

Budget Mechanic In Hawaii, thank you for the reply. We haven't had a single problem with our CRV...then this noise...your video is 💯 percent spot on Sir.

[@mccc4559]

Budget Mechanic In Hawaii, My pleasure Sir. 🤗

[@CHIBA280CRV]

Hey thanks for the video. Nicely done.

[@antonios4926]

Thanks for the video. From uk

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

ANTONIOS you’re welcome!

[@doughorwat]

You can remove the pulley off of the tensioner to get at the back bolt.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Thanks for the tip!

[@jeffkeryk3550]

I use a bungee to hold the serpentine belt. Great video!

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Those bungees can be handy, great idea!

[@3dprintwiz378]

@@BudgetMechanicHawaii Hi I hope you can help me out. The belt tensioner on my HONDA crv 2010 model is very different to what is in here. The exact model of my car is Honda 2010 CRV 2.0 i-vtec two wheel drive, and I am looking for a tensioner part for it but the closest part that look like mine is for a honda civic. Do you know of any online store that sells complete Honda parts?

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

3D Printwiz I would recommend getting from a parts store so you can look at it before buying. Will save you hassle of returns!

[@3dprintwiz378]

@@BudgetMechanicHawaii local stores here sell at a premium. Looking for parts onli e since they are about half the price.

[@jeffkeryk3550]

@@3dprintwiz378 Amazon or Rock Auto.

[@randyfitz8310]

I've had good results reducing some noises by cleaning those deposits off of the pulleys. That would not improve a creaky tensioner nor one with failing bearings.

[@drewdale]

Randy Fitz that's good to know, thanks for the input

[@justmy2abelincolns272]

Thanks for this, my mechanic wouldn’t shut up about this being a pain in the ass and I showed him he could get it done faster if he’d just stop complaining and see you do it in the parking lot of an apartment complex. lol

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Haha. I cut out all the complaining I did while making this video probably

[@justmy2abelincolns272]

@Hide in the Shadows I’m the shop owner, he is my employed mechanic. Most all mechanics complain like this lol

[@adamn7516]

You can wrap a bungee cord aroung the belt and hook ends of the bungee to a spot near the rear of the headlight. Obviously the cord needs to be short enough to maintain the tension. That should keep it up and out the way for the duration of the rest of the job. Could tie it off with a simple piece of wire or string.

[@ronymontufar789]

Great job

[@kellymoore4532]

Just replace the pulley and not the whole tensioner and pulley assembly. Save you about 45 minutes and $40. Pulley is available on Amazon for $19-22.

[@steveexley8306]

That's what I did. The pulley bolt is held on by a nut which keys into the back of the tensioner. Easy enough to replace without taking the tensioner or engine mounting off. Honda do the pulley as a part without the tensioner.

[@BarneyBulletStudios]

Nice...but no need to mess with the engine mounts, etc. Just remove the pulley on the old and new tensioner to access the lower bolt. Very fast and easy.

[@Kambo_STI]

so glad i read your comment. was about to take off the mount lol

[@popslops2188]

Thanks alot for the video.I have a leaking power steering pump that is dripping ps fluid onto and into my alternator and also a leak at the VTEC pre screen on the front of the head.I have a new belt,tensioner,VTEC pre screen filter and PS rebuild kit so I plan to do these repairs at once.Anyone doing this is advised to replace the VTEC pre screen while they are doing a tensioner job if you have a leak.Part number is 15845-RAA-A01,found it for about $8 online.I like to use Hondabond or Permatex Ultra Gray on the VTEC gaskets.

[@Desertduleler_88]

I was going to suggest an inspection of the vtec filter screen even if it wasn't leaking just to see how clogged it is.

[@rsmissyt1]

I had the same problem in my 2007 cr-v...If the power steering fluid was leaking into the alternator you'll eventually have to get it replaced as well.

[@carlosqueliz2682]

thank you. for this video it helped

[@rbgpirate]

lesson learned...sometimes i gotta humble myself too.

[@DNellserChanNel]

very helpful, thanks.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Nellser Davis you're welcome!

[@billyromono3176]

Great video. What tensioner did you use? Gates? Thx

[@mrblogga8127]

You can do it without undoing the engine mount a long 12 mm socket on 3/ 8 drive have to get that bolt by feel but looks like need to do that even taking mount off

[@WookieSenshi]

Nice! Thanks.

[@3dprintwiz378]

My CRV does not even have a hydraulic steering wheel, and my tensioner looks very different. The exact model is Honda 2010 CRV 2.0 i-vtec. Do you know of any online store that sells complete Honda parts? I need to replace the tensioner but the closest thing that looks like my part online belongs to a civic?

[@mrflex91]

Hey great video, my tensioner doesn't have a nut(nut slot) on the back, I have a 2007 acura tsx, is that ok?

[@sivucit]

hi i did this work on 2008 honda crv i struggled to put the motor side mount to be aligned i have to rock engine back and forth took 1 hour to align. can u share some trick about how to align bolts

[@chuckmaleman5216]

Great vid i have a 03 crv 2.4ltr.it keeps shredding belts.iwss told its the belt tensioner.does that sound correct to you as well...Thanks

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

That is very possible. If the pulley bearing starts locking up it will drag on the belt and destroy it.

[@Mrfree1]

Take the pulley off completely instead of messing with the mount?

[@Daniel-xq7ny]

yep!

[@wescarpenter5603]

Thanks for the only in depth view of the road ahead for me with my element. how long did it take from start to finish? before and after comparison? Glad to find your channel. Thanks

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

to be honest I don't totally remember, and it always takes longer when we're filming it, but I think it would have taken me around 2 hrs to do (some here could probably do faster!)

[@wescarpenter5603]

i followed this and some of the comments and removed the pulley. it worked great. solved the clatter sounds and better performance of the A/C. Thanks.

[@izaiaz18]

I only changed the pure bearing it was cheaper, it does not take care of changing the whole piece.

[@chiroyce72]

I will be attempting this tonight. My car has been squealing/grinding for over 2 weeks now. Sounds horrible.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Good Luck! Lemme know how it goes.:)

[@chiroyce72]

Okay, so 3 1/2 hours later. I got it done. My CRV is a 2008. The problem I had is not having metric angle head wrenches, and also a medium depth socket. However, I was able to borrow some tools from a neighbor to get it done. I didn't need to take off the engine mount. I removed the pulley on the tensioner that was being removed. This helped a lot however putting on the new one was challenging. I honestly struggled with the belt at the end, yet persistence paid off. Thanks! The excellent video and all the comments made this go smooth.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

M Royce Brunette I'm glad it helped! Thanks for sharing, your comments just might help the next person.;)

[@keithtyndall6020]

Hi. Good video. Was there a reason to replace the whole tensioner assembly. I have replaced just the wheel on other cars.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Yes you can just replace the tensioner pulley (it did look bad) but when tensioners go bad its very often the spring loaded arm that starts to fail. when it doesn't press against the belt hard enough the belt can begin to squeal. In this case I figured it was the spring.

[@herschalkrustofski]

If you took off the idler pulley first, would that keep from having to undo the engine mount? Thanks!

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

It's possible it might work, I've never tried! But it would still be a tough reach. It also mean you'd have to remove the pulley from the new tensioner and bolt back on once the tensioner was installed. For me, it seems about the same amount of work. Let us know if you try the other way though! Thanks for you thoughts

[@fiberzip]

I got knocking sound, on 2010 HONDA CRV is it really tension pulley or something else. Great job!

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Without being there to hear it I can't be sure but, I would guess a "knocking sound" would not be the belt tensioner. If it was the tensioner it would be more of a squealing sound from slipping.

[@angelisone]

ATG says if your belt is getting chewed up & side ripped, check by hand cranking the Crankshaft Bolt. ATG also says always replace the VTC Strainer Gasket Filter (don't waste your timing in cleaning) once you got the Belt Tensioner out. ATG says 81% of the time your Belt Tensioner is about to go south, if it is over 8.2 years or has over 253km. ATG's VTC Strainer Gasket Filter aged is known to caused oil leaks & ATG famous P2646 & P2647. ATG says DO NOT attempt to use engine cleaner if you have *oil sludge. * ATG sugguests if this is your SUV, remove the Valve Cover, Coils, Spark Plugs & Oil Pan (a nightmare task to performs) and clean all that oil sludge out by manually hand crank the Crankshaft Bolt.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Great info! ....what the heck is ATG?

[@izaiaz18]

You can not buy the whole piece, it does not take care. they can buy only the bearing is cheaper.

[@angelisone]

@@izaiaz18 Yes, you can get the *Tensioner Assy. ATG recommends to buy the whole unit vs just the roller (bearing inside roller). ATG says if you needed right away then buy online at Advance Auto Parts to save 25% (I got 50%), you pay it online, then go and pickup at your nearest store (1st select your closest store to shop, select pickup at store & buy) & get to the store & provide confirmation. If you buy at store you have to pay full prices. *ATG highly recommends to buy the Tensioner Unit, Serpentine Belt & VTC Gasket Filter. If that Tensioner's Spring goes bad, you got to do it again. If that Serpentine Belt snapped, good luck making it home. If you don't you CR-V to buckle like a wild bull, change that gasket filter. Saving $500+

[@angelisone]

@@BudgetMechanicHawaii Engine designer, electron microscope & laser designer, physician, classified Formula One consultant like "Flying Scot" & camera/lens specialist.

[@startedfromthebottom7349]

Thanks for your video! Do you think it's possible to access the third (and hard to reach) bolt from the tensioner if you remove the passenger side tire and try to reach that area from underneath the car?

[@royallhawaii]

+StartedFromTheBottom I'm not sure but I think the shock tower will be in the way of the bolts. I'll know more later today as my friend is bringing the car over as I type this. Just hope it doesn't rain! LOL If it looks like taking the tire off will help, I'll post back again.

[@startedfromthebottom7349]

I managed reach that third bolt yesterday by taking the tensioner pulley off. Worked like a charm!

[@royallhawaii]

I didn't think of doing that... I got the job done and it took just shy of 2 hours. I jacked the car up and took the wheel and fender liner off to get to the lower end of the belt. I was fighting getting it off of the AC pulley... I think that was a great idea to take the idler pulley off! Good tip.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Sorry for late reply I've been out of the country! It looks like you've already figured it out but for the record I did consider taking the wheel off and going from underneath but there were still things in the way. Like you found out though, removing the actual tensioner pulley makes accessing the 3rd bolt much easier.

[@johnrobertson1808]

My sister has 2011: Would I just be able clean off the bumps off the pulley.??

[@xx_dexterzprotage197_xx9]

it would be much easier to remove that 12mm bolt under the pulley if you remove the pulley first.

[@kowboy83ra]

This was going fairly decent until the removal of the engine mount bolts.

[@wellopurplefit]

What brand tensioner is that ...drop a link to it

[@Gurucwd]

Had the tensioner replaced 8 mos ago by a technician who was hurried and incapable. The tensioner now is visibly vibrating from the bottom of the mount of the tensioner assembly. I am guessing it’s starting to loosen as it was not torqued correctly. While I don’t have the impact gun nor the extensions for accessing the last bolt is there a way to get to the bolt from the wheel well?

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

R Anand are you sure it's not just the arm of the tensioner bobbing up and down from the pressure of the belt? If so, that's normal. If it's actually the tensioner assembly coming loose I'm not sure about reaching through the wheel well, tho that looks like you may run into the frame anyway. Let me know how it goes!

[@Gurucwd]

You maybe right I am going to check the center bolt st least and see if that’s on tight. If that’s normal motion then the unit vibrates far too much. I used a gates tensioner . Is there a better brand or did you use oem?

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

That doesn't sound too good! I usually like gates products.

[@Gurucwd]

Turns out I was swindled. The mechanic I hired took the Gates tensioner and replaced with reconditioned Honda one. Shame on me for trusting this repair shop. What’s was worse is they offer on site repair and swapped this in my front yard! Thanks for the video and the answers in helping tracking this to a resolution

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

R Anand that sucks but I’m glad u figured it out. Make sure you warn your friends about that repair shop!

[@Jorisinflorida]

I paid a garage to do this, and brought them the new parts. Next day the thing squealed for the first 5 miles of driving. I gave it a couple of weeks, thinking the belt might need to break in, but it just kept squealing the first 5 miles each time I drove it. I looked in the shop manual and it specifies aligning the arrow mark on the base of the tensioner with a mark on the articulating arm of the tensioner... the mechanic never did that. It also specified torquing bolts, and he never touched a torque wrench. I took it back and told him these things and he asked what I wanted him to do. I said fix it right, and make the squealing stop. He acted bothered. He loosened a bolt, put all his weight on a breaker bar to force the arrow to align with the mark, had another guy sock down the bolt (still no torque measured), and let off on the breaker bar. Said there you go. I checked and the arrow still was at least a half inch off the mark, and frustrated, left. It squealed worse than before, and it squealed the entire time I drove it home. I just parked it, and figured I'm screwed. I would have done the job myself, but I'm a disabled veteran and have a lot of physical issues that make it really hard to be bent over for more than a couple of minutes. The shop owner knows it yet he stiffed me for more than the estimate, and they totally messed it up. Four days later I had to get groceries, so I just got in, started it, and to my surprise there was no more squealing. I got my food, came home and parked it. Next day I drove one mile and heard the new belt coming apart, turned around and went back to the marina (I live in a boat with my dog). The belt is still on, but pieces started coming off the sides. He had it so tight there was zero play. Bad garage, name is Rapid Auto Repair, in Merritt Island, Florida. Mechanic is the owners son, and owner supports his son even when his son does shabby work. I'll have to pay all over again for parts, wait until they arrive, have it towed to my brothers house and do the work myself. But I noticed that you never aligned the arrow and the mark, never torqued anything, and didn't even mention these things. Do you not refer to the shop manual before commencing work? Just curious, because as I mentioned, my (ex)mechanic didn't either, and look where I am now. Why would Honda specify these things if they didn't matter at all? There must be a reason. I can't afford Honda mechanics. You have to be rich to afford them. And I've been fighting the V.A. for over 10 years for my "service connection". Been struggling just to eat each month.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Hi! Sorry to hear about that mess! Those marks on the tensioner are for determining if the belt has stretched too much and needs replacement. As the belt ages and stretches the auto tensioner moves farther out to take up the slack. In theory you're supposed to be able to quickly look at the marks and determine if you need a new belt or not. The problem is that many aftermarket belts aren't exactly the same length as the honda ones so even if they're new, they could be showing bad adjustment on the tensioner. Same goes for aftermarket tensioners, you can't always trust their marks. So I'm not sure how your man "adjusted" the marks on the auto tensioner unless he somehow stretched the belt with his breaker bar (which would explain why it then squealed worse?). Short answer, I don't trust the marks. But I do trust the squeal to tell me something is wrong. If the tensioner and belt were new, then you are looking at maybe: -broken or low quality new parts (happens! just did a hyundai alternator belt that squealed right from the package! bought a higher quality one and no problems) -Incorrectly routed belt (was it riding partially off one of the pulleys somewhere?) -A different faulty component creating extra "drag" on the belt (i.e. is your AC compressor, alternator, power steering pump going bad or out of fluid? You would probably know that by other symptoms) Keep in mind a belt that has been stretched from improper installation, or overheated by rubbing on something needs to be replaced even if its not old. The rubber can get soft or misshapen and will squeal no matter which way you instal it. I still use shop manuals from time to time, (or the BUDGET way: auto zone's iOS app includes free repair manuals for most car models!!!) I use a torque wrench whenever I can on sensitive stuff where fluid seals are at stake, like water pumps or tranny pan gaskets, because obviously too tight will crush the gasket and too loose will leak. But the most important reason to use a torque wrench is the make sure there's EVEN PRESSURE all the way around your part, so that the metal doesn't warp or have uneven pressure points. But sometimes you just can't fit a torque wrench into a spot and you have to do your best to tighten all the bolts evenly. On applications like this, without a fluid barrier involved, I'm not terribly worried about it being the perfect even tightness, I'm just going to snug things down as evenly as I can. Hope this helps!

[@Jorisinflorida]

Hey Josh, thanks for your advice. I feel pretty lame now. I was looking at the wrong page, the belt tensioner inspection page. So the torque wrench and the marks alignment plays no role in installation. Duh. I can't believe I missed that. Turned the page and there was the Installation, straight forward, simple job. I've installed them on American cars, this is my first Honda. And you need tiny hands to get down in there. That being said, they installed the tensioner right, but they misaligned the belt grooves on the pulley ridges on the alternator, so the belt started cutting on the outer rim of the pulley wheel, and belt strips started peeling off and slapping. Had to buy another new belt and did the removal/install myself with my brothers help. I'm getting old, so I like him being here in case. Anyway, thanks again. Thanks for your videos, too. Good stuff.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

No problem, I hope it works out!

[@Touhmonglor]

Should the tensioner jiggle? Mine and jiggling and making a noise that's why I think my lights are flickering/pulsing. Help?

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

You will see some motion in the tensioner arm while the car is running, though it shouldn't be out of control either. Lights flickering is certainly an electrical issue. The only thing electrical to do with this belt is the alternator. Check how many volts are at your battery terminals when the car is running and ensure its 13.5 volts or more.

[@malazkm]

i need help on my 1998 honda crv. my belt is completely gone from my altenator. i do not know what to do. my alternator is not up top more at the bottom.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Sorry for the late reply I hope you've resolved this by now. In any case, if there is no belt you might have bigger issues but I'm unable to diagnose without actually being there. I would definitely recommend getting someone to look at it. Sorry I can't be more help!

[@tunthura9349]

Could you pls advise the torque specifications for the 2 bolts & 1 nut from engine mount.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

54ft/lbs or if you don't have a torque wrench, just finish them off with a nice hard tug with a 1/2" ratchet.

[@tunthura9349]

Thanks for your advice .I really appreciate it.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Tun Thura No problem!

[@DBL1TZ]

instead of taking the engine mount off you just remove the pulley from the tensioner. Use a 1/4 ratchet for the last bolt on the tensioner and it's no problem. This tensioner is easy to replace and should only take 40 minutes maximum.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

I think I understand what your are saying more or less. Glad it was so quick!

[@tunthura9349]

Good day DBL1TZ,I intend to replace the new tensioner on coming weekend.I order the whole tensioner which already attached with pulley.May I know how do you install the new tensioner. Take off the pulley from the tensioner body first then install the tensioner body, then install the pulley to the tensioner body ?Tun

[@mccc4559]

What would you estimate this repair will cost at a local repair shop? I have found the part available in the $40 range. I would appreciate YOUR estimate....I won't quote you on it, but it will definitely give me the guidance that I need. THANKS A LOT!!! 🤗✌

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Well it really depends on who the mechanic is and where they are located. A certified mechanic will usually charge between $70-120 an hour for labor and this job without complications might be 1-2 hours? Definitely a rough estimate.:)

[@mccc4559]

Budget Mechanic In Hawaii, thank you very much for taking the time to reply with details. This means a lot to us. Here is to your health and well-being. Best wishes as you continue on your KZbin Adventures.

[@lebronjordan802]

Where did you buy your belt tensioner?

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Lebron Jordan I don’t remember exactly but I usually like to see the part before I buy it so I most likely bought locally like at O’Reilly’s.

[@lebronjordan802]

Budget Mechanic Hawaii thanks!

[@garystubbs5516]

Enjoyed the how to video but... I noticed you didn't torque anything down (or least you didn't show or tell us that you did). I'm a big proponent of torquing critical parts to spec.. IE...' tentioner pulley and engine mounts. That's just my opinion. Great step by step illustration though.

[@zhm9588]

Are you in puna I could use help

[@raymondrodriguez8243]

U need to cover the mike withe a pice of fome to keep the wind from making a howing noise

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

That's true! Check out some of our later videos, the sound gets better.;)

[@BunBoHue]

How do U do it on a v6

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

ElectronicEcho this video covers the 4cyl but the principle is the same! Find the tensioner, release the tension, remove the belt, then remove the tensioner. I don't have a v6 in front of me to be able to tell you specifically sorry!

[@billsonhondahead6558]

You don’t have to remove the motor mount. Just need a deep 12 mm socket. Way to much work for nothing just did it

[@angelisone]

Very dumb designs that you have to remove the engine motor mount. That is the main reason many owners don't want to pay high labors so they trade it in for another car or suv.

[@edtam268]

Why didn't you just replace the "Pulley, Idler"?

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Replacing the idler wouldn't solve the problem of reduced belt tension. The spring inside the tensioner wears out and stop pressing hard enough on the belt which would make it slip and squeal. If the idler bearing is going out then yes, that would be enough but didn't suspect that bearing

[@laxkkcx4759]

Does your 2010 CRV makes this noise when you are stopped and turn the wheel slighty when it has been driven for 20 minutes or more. You can hear it when pulling in driveway. kzbin.info/www/bejne/j5q4hqKcrMp8isU

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Afraid I can't tell much from that video. Probably best to take it to someone who can listen to it in person, sorry! Let us know if you figure it out!

[@laxkkcx4759]

Hi I am starting to think it is the alternator when the bearing gets hot or car driven for more then 20 minutes hot. The bearing is probably bad. So I used my Innova 3160e alternator testing function and I put on in the ciagrette lighter to. Sometimes the voltage will stay at 12.6 to 14.1 during ilde and after you put a load on it. The scanner tested alternator is bad. I have no warning lights on my dash. What do you think Since I replaced Power Steering Pump, Drive Belt Tensioner all with genuine honda parts brand new.

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

Its pretty hard for me to help diagnose without the car in front of me. But I can tell you that an alternator should be putting out at least 13 volts (ideally more like 14), if its less than that it isn't properly charging and should be checked and/or replaced.

[@laxkkcx4759]

Happy New YearThank you so much Budget. I finally found the problem to correct that ticking noise. When the car gets hot to the point Catalytic Converter is super hot. I think the honeycomb inside is broken. It rattles when you turn the steering wheel because it bumps up the rpm. When that Catalytic converter pipe was hot I grab it and shook it and it was the same noise I was hearing. Well at least I know what is the problem i am not gonna fix it until it has a check engine light. Thanks

[@laxkkcx4759]

Hey Budget I found the fix to it. www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=175628 It worked. It was the flex gasket.

[@mrflex91]

Hey great video, my tensioner doesn't have a nut(nut slot) on the back, I have a 2007 acura tsx, is that ok?

[@BudgetMechanicHawaii]

I'm not sure about the acura. Sometimes those "cross-over" models can have slight differences. I recommend you look at a new tensioner for your car and see what it looks like compared to your old one.

[@brainstorm4207]

mrflex91 No, youre car is gonna blow up now