How to replace Creality Halot ONE resin vat FEP Film

[@3DPDoctor]

If you guys like this video and this video helped you for your print, help me grow my channel by subscribing :D :D And please share this video and tell you friends too maybe they also wanna subscribe too! Thank you all! Let me know how can I improve my videos in the future. Feel free to comment down below!

[@justingiver7387]

Great Video.. I have a question. In my Halot one, there is a rubber ring on the inside track of the FEP.. under the film and the bracket holding it in place. Mine has desintegrated however, you never mentioned it in your video.. is this a necessary piece or can I do without?

[@MooglePowah]

My FEP film started leaking a few days ago and I have never felt so out of my depth with my printer- changing the film seemed like such a mountain of a learning curve 🙈 I've managed to do it now though because of your video- I cannot thank you enough! Gonna try a print tonight to see if I've done it right 😊

[@joatmon_313]

Seems straight forward! Was worried I might mess it up, but I think I can tackle this job 💪🏼😤. Thanks.

[@oscarpruitt684]

Liked and Subscribed! Thanks for the video. I had to change the FEP for the first time and this video showed exactly how to do it and kept it simple. Printer is like new again :)

[@3DPDoctor]

Glad it helped!

[@crosswalkguy435]

I was really nervous about changing it. Thank you so much for this video. (I would have left the protective film on accidentally, if I hadn't seen your video)

[@3DPDoctor]

Wow close call! Happy to help

[@lordronin593]

great video, thanks! I also love jigs like the one you made to place the resin tank in to pour it empty, nice touch there :)

[@3DPDoctor]

Thank u

[@themainman2827]

Like everything in 3D printing, at first it seems difficult but in the end it is absurdly easy. TY.

[@EBOWARRIOR]

New subscriber, followed this guide exactly and it really helped.

[@3DPDoctor]

Awesome 👏🏻

[@marzevell1949]

Thanks man really helps out the community

[@3DPDoctor]

Yey

[@sergeykondratov7856]

perfect! need more resin printer guides

[@3DPDoctor]

Will come over time

[@Endero]

Worked like a charm, thanks!!

[@3DPDoctor]

Awesome

[@breakerjr]

Have you done the bottle cap method? Putting a bottle cap in the middle of the fep and tightening it as so. To create more a peel instead of slapping off the model when the plate moves up?

[@3DPDoctor]

Yes i did. Bottle cap method works great if you have double frame to screw the fep first like Anycubic’s resin vats. If you don’t have double frame to sandwich the fep it is hard to do so

[@breakerjr]

@@3DPDoctor that makes sense!

[@KuntaKillmonger]

Liked and subbed. Video was very helpful. Thanks!

[@3DPDoctor]

Thank you too

[@btcbob11392]

Great video ! How often do you have to replace the film ? I bought a used printer and I don't know how much it was used. Thanks

[@LigsYT]

I heard it depends on what you are printing but they normally last 30-50 prints before needing replaced.

[@quarterhorse01]

Thank you exactly what I was looking for.

[@3DPDoctor]

Perfect

[@mikemcateer4685]

Thanks for the video very informative. Where did the drip stand come from please?

[@3DPDoctor]

I put the link to download it into description. 😀 check it out

[@DanielBeaver]

Thanks for that link, that will be a big help. I had been carefully balancing the tray on the edge of my funnel.

[@vitlonsky5714]

Thank you sir for a great video :) .

[@hugorila]

Thank you very much! 😎👍

[@mathewmccullough2656]

Thanks for this, big help

[@SmallSpoonBrigade]

It's probably better to just poke holes on opposite sides and then put those screws in first, That should get you a more reliable and less likely to have some of the holes in not quite the right place. I'm not sure that it absolutely has to be done, but in general things like this tend to be best done with the further ones apart first, then the closer ones.

[@halotservice6739]

Nice video , thanks for your sharing

[@3DPDoctor]

Thank you!

[@jaonajar]

at the 8:11 you have this "sealing rubber ring" around the inside part of the vat, mine broke. Do you know where can I buy just this piece?

[@justingiver7387]

I just redid my fep and my ring was broken as well. I didn't put it back and am currently printing.. I have looked to find this ring even on creatlity sites and can't find anything. How did your search go.. did you eventually go without it and if so, where there any issues?

[@karammasri2447]

If I didn’t cut the excess film off the new one would that mess up the prints because of it not bringing completely flat on the belt

[@3DPDoctor]

Yeah you need to cut the excess as in the video

[@patrickmccrimmon5996]

very helpful

[@3DPDoctor]

Happy to help

[@bob00768able]

bravo , merci c'est tres bien...

[@malkoiamann1356]

Bonne vidéo merci

[@amieldizon7139]

Why doesn't the film just come with holes and set to exact size?

[@3DPDoctor]

Well that would be perfect haha. Seems like manufacturer’s are cutting the costs by not doing it

[@amieldizon7139]

@@3DPDoctor They should really look into improving it.

[@WyattBurgess2010]

thanks

[@ChickenSoup24]

Which fep would you suggest

[@3DPDoctor]

I put the link for what i use from the creality.

[@biggrundo6667]

How do I know if its too tight? I changed my FEP and now nothing sticks to the build plate.

[@3DPDoctor]

After that you need to re-level. Bad leveling is the reason for non-sticking issue or the bottom layer exposure time. These are the most common issues. When you are replacing the fep just push it a little in, it is hard to tell but like 5 mm maybe, then tighten. It should be good to go. There are other videos for detailed tightening steps

[@biggrundo6667]

@@3DPDoctor Thanks I relevelled twice and put a bit of ptfe lube in the vat, I think its working now.

[@3DPDoctor]

Good luck

[@michaelnoardo3315]

im almost throwing my Halot one thru the window, I tried everything but print sticks to FEP, Half of the print to the FEP and half to the build plate, I've tried everything possible

[@mrglobul12]

Any luck? I had a puncture in my FEP and replaced it. Now, nothing sticks to the build plate any more. Prints are failing at the FEP. Tweaked exposure settings and nada. Seems like FEP might be too taught, so that when the platform lifts, resin print doesn't came along for the ride

[@michaelnoardo3315]

@@mrglobul12 yes i had luck, for me, I found out that Hallot one for most of resins it is necessary long exposure per layer, for me 4.3 secs for transparent and water resin.... this is why it was sticking to the FEP

[@rob11951]

What kind of resin was that?, what company

[@3DPDoctor]

I generally use resione abs like resin or Anycubic standard resins

[@rob11951]

@@3DPDoctor what brand was the clear yellow? Can you link it please?

[@ChickenSoup24]

And how much did you tighten it

[@3DPDoctor]

I tightened the screws gently until they are all the way in. For the tension of the screen put it on top of the frame and while stabilizing push it a bit with your finger to change the tension

[@ChickenSoup24]

@@3DPDoctor i don’t understand tbh. Which frame are we talking about. And what do you mean when stabilising.

[@3DPDoctor]

Did you watch the video? Frame is the black metal portion where the 14 screws are screwed through. Stablizing: I mean when you first put the fep film between the frame and the tank walls.

[@ChickenSoup24]

@@3DPDoctor got it

[@rhysdoes3dprinting]

Tysm

[@DerekDevalius]

thxxxxxxxxxxx veryyyy muchhhhh

[@husam.halawa]

helpful

[@halotservice6739]

Nice video , thanks for your sharing

[@3DPDoctor]

Thank you

[@n.a.nameless5435]

very helpful

[@jeffcasper7299]

thanks