How to Replace Harman Igniter Starter Element, Harmon Stove Ignitor

[@dosewallips2365]

Hi, here with the Absolute 43C in 2023. Igniter failed on the Monday. Ordered the replacement on the Tuesday for less than $20. It arrived on the Thursday. Took about an hour to pull and replace. Felt it warm up in my hand before I did the re-assembly. Fired right up. Not sure how many HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS we just saved nor how long it would have even taken for a technician to get our here. The geometry is a little different on the 43C from your video but the basics are the same. If anything the 43C is even easier. The 43C has little mount posts that the zip-tied wires slip onto so you don't even need to snip them all. Didn't have the luxury of spinning the stove around on the lazy susan like you did (lol) but that didn't matter. Thank you thank you thank you thank you If you're a basic DIYer you can do this.

[@EarthSense]

That's fantastic to hear! Glad this was helpful and thanks for sharing your additional tips when it comes to changeout on the Absolute 43. Any questions or needs down the road just let us know. Thanks!

[@dosewallips2365]

@@EarthSense What is it that keeps the igniter wires from melting down under the heat? Is it that they are pushed into the back cavity that we can't see with our eyes? I know there is that heat shield on the first few inches. It seems like our failure - if it was physical - was right up next to where the leads solder into the igniter. Any opinions on how Harman could make that better?

[@EarthSense]

@@dosewallips2365 Thanks for the message. The igniter wires have a heat protected coating, the lead wires they connect to are yes pulled back into the air intake cavity which does not get hot during operation. We have seen some failures at the wire solder point to the igniter, others where the element simply burns out. Personally I think there can always be manufacturing and quality control improvements on all replacement parts for all manufacturers. Overall the Harman igniter style does hold up better than most hot rod and loop style igniter elements used in other makes/models. Some tips for longer life - Less cycling of the igniter. In season once the stove lights, flip the igniter toggle to manual. This will keep a consistent fire as the weather is cold. Spring and fall keep it on auto to shut off in the day and kick on in the evening. - Clean the igniter burnpot cavity area every 30 bags or so burned. Tap on the igniter cradle as ash accumulates on top that we often don't see. Ash will restrict air flow and act as an insulator. The cleaner that area is the less resistance needed for ignition. Inspect your burn pot holes as well to ensure all are open when cleaning this area. Hope that is helpful, any other questions just let us know. Thanks!

[@dmwi1549]

Very helpful. Thanks for the video. I was specifically looking for the tip on why my Harlan Accentra has high temp silicone on my blue and yellow wires passing into the unit.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message. Earlier Accentra models will use the silicone where the igniter wires pass through to reach the burnpot. Newer models will use a grommet in this area. If you have an earlier unit that used silicone, it is important for both safety and efficiency that once you have the new igniter in place you silicone the area again where the igniter wires pass through. Any other questions just let us know. Thanks.

[@towerswe]

Excellent explanation. I'm a pellet stove newbie so this was great.

[@EarthSense]

Thank you so much! Very glad to hear it was helpful.

[@sunsetz72]

Wow that was awesome.Thank you! You took the fear right out of the unknown. Great video.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks so much!! Really appreciate that and so glad you found it helpful and empowering :)

[@rogersmith9672]

Thank you so much for posting this video! We’re having problems getting our stove to light even though we have been using it this year with no issues. I’m afraid it might need a new igniter and unfortunately our local Harman dealer doesn’t provide ANY tech or mechanical support! They don’t sell many pellet stoves here in Tennessee. 😢. So we’re going to do a full clean tomorrow and if it’s still not working then we’ll try a new igniter.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message Roger, glad the video was helpful. Yes, make sure the burnpot holes are open and clear and the cleanout area on the burnpot where the igniter is located has been cleaned out. If you do need a new element just let us know and we can provide some references. Thanks!

[@rogersmith9672]

@@EarthSense thanks! I really appreciate it!

[@EarthSense]

@@rogersmith9672 Most Welcome!

[@rkmuggsy]

Thank you! Exactly what I needed. Made it quite clear how to do. Thanks again!!!

[@EarthSense]

Our pleasure! So glad to hear it was helpful. Any other questions or needs just let us know. Thanks!

[@sunsmile57]

Can you do a video on installing wire harness? I pull mine out and cut all the zip ties to clean and now I can’t remember which goes where. I have the wire diagram

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message, we can certainly add a wire harness install to our list of upcoming videos. The wiring diagram should be clear on which wire connects to which component. If you need additional diagrams just let us know your model and I will see if we have some additional reference materials that may be helpful for you. Thanks.

[@kimlanz2511]

Very informative video...I just bought a house that has a Harman pellet stove..worked great for our first month and then stopped igniting the pellets..did some research and cleaned out the igniter area really good and wiped it out clean..still will not ignite the pellets...any tips??.. thoughts?? I wound up buying some gel lighter fluid and started pellets then turned on the pellet feed..worked great all evening..it really want it to ignite on its own again..

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Kim. Yes, I will always suggest to folks to clean out the igniter area, scrape the burnpot well, and make sure all the burnpot holes are open. Given you mention that it works great after manually lighting it, I don't see this being a combustion air issue causing the problem. I would suggest checking the ohms on the igniter element. This will verify whether the igniter is in range or out of range. For the Harman Finned Igniter, your ohms should read between 45 - 53. Let us know what you find, happy to assist.

[@kimlanz2511]

@@EarthSense Thanks for the info!..I ended up calling the previous home owner to help me trouble shoot...he said that there are probably ashes in the ignitor area that is prohibiting the hot air to ignite the pellets and he was right! I took the plate off and cleaned the ashes out of that area and it did the trick..so thankful! Saved me the expense of getting a service guy out to look at it!

[@EarthSense]

@@kimlanz2511 Wonderful to hear Kim! Any future questions or needs please let us know. Warmest Regards,

[@anthonyrago2040]

1 tIp I learned was to take a Black magic marker and mark the blue/yellow wires BEFORE you pull them from the front... this way after ignitor is installed u just pull back the wires to the spots you marked. Now you know the wire are in same exact spot they we're before you pulled them. No guess work.

[@EarthSense]

Awesome! Thanks for sharing the tip!

[@deg050607]

I wish to thank him for saying If the igniter is packed with ash.Mine was at least on the top where I couldn't see it..I thought I was cleaning it thoroughly.It was taking a long time to light the pellets.I now use a hair dryer to blow the ash off the igniter.My Harmon now starts in less than 5 minutes..

[@EarthSense]

Awesome to hear! Glad the video was helpful!

[@rogersmith9672]

My one question is- how do I tell if the igniter is no longer working? Our current Accentra has been working fine this year but we turned it off for a while and when trying to restart it just keeps feeding pellets and no fire. We have cleaned the fire pot and the ashes inside the housing but it’s still not functioning. Gonna do a total clean tomorrow and see what happens and check the electrical for correct ohms. But I’m wondering how to tell if it’s burnt out.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks Roger. Best way to know if the igniter is good or bad is to use a multi-meter and get an ohm reading on it. The Finned Harman Igniter in your Accentra should have an ohm range between 45.0 - 53.0 to be in operable range. Keep us posted. Thanks!

[@rogersmith9672]

@@EarthSense thank you so much for the information! And for the video! Unfortunately the dealer who sold us this stove doesn’t do any service or repairs! It’s about 100 miles from us so I understand but they don’t even have anyone to call and ask questions. I’m really glad I found your videos cuz we were getting no help there. Thx

[@EarthSense]

@@rogersmith9672 Absolutely Roger! We got your back 100%. Our staff is very experienced with Harman - Any questions at all as you go along just let us know. Additionally, we have several Harman videos up on our channel here, several of them with the Accentra. Feel free to check some of them out if you want. Thanks again!

[@keithmackenzie9719]

Great explanation and I trust it based on all the nicks and cuts on his knuckles.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks Keith, glad it was helpful. Yeah, there's a few knicks and cuts :) Thanks again

[@neilbourgeault7818]

What if we have a different fire box on our Harmon PC45 Corn Stove? Our Pot is different and has no front cover..

[@EarthSense]

Hey Neil, thanks for contacting us. The Harman PC45 will have an entirely different burnpot design and igniter element. Your stove will also have an air pump which forces air through the element for ignition. When experiencing ignition issues with the PC45 it's important to check the pump and hose as well. I would suggest for you to get an OHM reading on the igniter to determine if the element is the issue. For your igniter style, proper OHM range will be 29.0 - 35.0. Your Pressure Igniter is located in the rear base of the burnpot and will be removed/replaced from the rear of the stove. We don't have a video on that currently, but if you need assistance just let us know and we can walk you through. Here's a reference video for testing the igniter incase needed. kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGXannaZbpuljKs Keep us posted, happy to help.

[@RiderOutdoors55]

I sure if you still post videos pellet head! But you rock man! Keep it coming

[@EarthSense]

Awesome! Great to hear and glad they have been helpful. We are aiming to do more videos in the future for sure. Appreciate you subscribing and staying tuned. If you need anything in specific in the future just let us know! Thanks so much and Happy Holidays!

[@hobbyaddict9908]

Nice video but I have the Accentra insert which is a complete nightmare to work on. I would love to see some videos on servicing the Accentra inserts.

[@EarthSense]

Yes, inserts are considerably more involved to work on and service than freestanding models. We will add that to our video list and look forward to putting out some videos on the Accentra Insert and other insert models. Appreciated!

[@dgerbier]

Thank you very much from France 🇫🇷 👍🙏

[@EarthSense]

You are most welcome! Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

[@brianhansen678]

My connectors are stuck together and won't budge. I don't want to tug on them too hard and risk the female connector getting busted. Any advice?

[@EarthSense]

Hey Brian, happy to help. If the connectors are being a real bear to pull apart usually I would then grab two needle nose pliers so I can securely grip each of the connectors and pull apart. If they still won't budge, then the best option will be to snip the wires and put new connectors in place. Any other questions please let us know. Thanks, Mr. Pellethead

[@davidpulaski5628]

Excellent video; subscribed. My Harman P35i insert is blowing fuses. No obvious shorts in the wiring. Can a bad igniter, (shorted), blow those fuses? In your experience, what is the most common cause of blown fuses??? Mother board ??? TIA !

[@EarthSense]

Thanks David! Yes, I would say the most common cause for fuses to blow would be an igniter short or an igniter grounding out during the start-up cycle. Glad you inspected the wiring, sounds like that is in-line. I would suggest taking a closer look at the igniter and igniter cradle cage. You can test the igniter with a multi-meter and check the ohms. Let us know what you find, happy to assist. Thanks! Here is a video on checking the igniter Ohms. kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGXannaZbpuljKs

[@davidpulaski5628]

@@EarthSense That's what I thought. I will be getting back to you. Thanks much ... A+ !!!

[@deg050607]

Using a stopwatch from the time you turn the stove on, how long should it take for the stove to lite or what is the max time it should take? Will an ignitor slowly wear out and take longer to lite a stove? My 2014 Harman P-43 last season took about 5-7 minutes to lite the stove as in from from the time I turned the switch on until I got a flame.I use Uncle Jeds cold remedy softwood pellets and I only burn about 40 -60 bags per season. I still can't decide if I should just put a new ignitor in.I have already purchased one from Pellethead.Will burning 40 -60 bags create much ash and slow the starting time? Sorry for the lengthy question.I appreciate any help. Thanks.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message! Happy to help. - Generally speaking the 5-7 minute range for ignition is right in line. I have inquired with our key techs on the Max time and will follow-up on that. - Generally the igniter will either be good or bad, however we have seen cases where the igniter does get weak over a period of time causing longer starts. - Pretty minimal fuel consumption, and Uncle Jed's Softwood is a very clean pellet, but cleaning is still very important. It's the hot air rushing past the igniter that lights the fire. We suggest periodic check of the igniter area, vacuuming out any fly ash. You can tap the igniter cradle to allow fly ash to fall off. Periodically inspect the burnpot holes to ensure they are all free and open. Make sure your door and ash pan gaskets are making a nice tight seal. Ash accumulation and buildup in the stove and venting will restrict air flow and cause issues with ignition as well as proper performance and efficiency. Again, 40-60 bags per season is very light. I would suggest you check the burnpot igniter cavity and holes after 30 or so bags are burned through. It never hurts to have a spare or back-up igniter, however it sounds like you are still in good shape with the one you have in the unit. Here are our Harman Igniter Listings for your Reference. pellethead.com/?s=harman+igniter Any other questions please let us know, we greatly appreciate your business and value you as our customer. Sincerely,

[@EarthSense]

Just heard from our key tech on max ignition time out: 10 minutes after the first start charge begins when a second start charge is initiated and another 10 minutes before a 5 blink status fault stops the process and turns off the igniter. Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

[@deg050607]

@@EarthSense Thank You again for all the info.I shall check those burnpot holes and ash accumulation more often.I have often said if more people knew what a Pellet stove really is they would buy one.I purchased my P-43 Harman @ Earthsense in Oostburg,WI.They also sell Uncle Jeds Pellets.We just love it.It makes winter more bearable.I have the stove in a lower level half-basement finished rec room.Walking down there and feeling the warmth on a cold snowy day makes the money I spent on it more than worth it.I live in town.Fireplaces are illegal in many places,but not Pellet stoves.My point is if you could somehow educate people about Pellet stoves you would sell a lot of them..Where I live 17 miles south of Oostburg I don't know anyone that has a Pellet stove.

[@EarthSense]

@@deg050607 Thanks so much for your response and suggestions here! I will forward this to our marketing team most certainly. We greatly appreciate you as a customer of ours. Any other questions or needs moving forward please let us know. Warmest regards.

[@jacobscott7989]

Do you answer questions via a phone call? How do I contact this wizard of a tech!?

[@EarthSense]

Hey Jacob, thanks for the message. Yeah, we absolutely can assist via a phone call. Reach us toll free at 800-236-6647 - Ask For Technical Support. We have a great team of tech professionals that can assist. Operating hours are 9-6 M-F, 9-3 Saturday. Thanks!

[@daddydestro3481]

How long should an igniter last before it needs replacement?

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. There are quite a few variables, especially based on how often the unit is turning on and off. For a Harman I would say the average lifespan is 3-5 seasons. We've seen some go 10+ years and some go in a month. Factory igniter has a 90 day warranty, most aftermarket will have a 1 year warranty. If you need to test your igniter: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGXannaZbpuljKs If you need to replace your igniter: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n2jRYoaJnKiDg8U Replacement Harman Igniters for Reference: pellethead.com/?s=harman+igniter Any other questions please let us know. Thanks!

[@markr.1584]

very good to know. you did a great job explaining it. thanks

[@EarthSense]

Thanks so much Mark!

[@jayeckblom8574]

Fantastic video AND spot on for instructions. PERFECT!!!

[@michaelmooney7396]

I have a 14 yr old (2005) model Harman Accentra 2 pellet stove. I ordered an ignitor from Amazon (upgade version) part #3-20-677200 (old #1-10-06620). This video was spot on for replacement procedure.

[@EarthSense]

Thank you Alphonso! So glad to hear it was helpful in the replacement process. Any future questions or needs please let us know. Thanks!

[@tomduffy1397]

great video(s)question - I assumed my igniter was bad so I replaced it and still get no ignition. I have checked the air holes in pot and have cleaned the stove completely. All functions seem to be working fine except for the ignition. I also connected the igniters directly to 110 and they turn cherry red. manual operation is fine as well any suggestions ??much appreciated

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us. Glad the video was helpful. Sounds like you're getting proper combustion air and gasket seals are good being it runs fine in manual mode. If its mounted right and getting cherry hot when you direct test it, the only other thing I can think it to be is an issue with the ignition timer in the circuit board. Leave the igniter front cover plate off on the burn pot and see if it's getting cherry red when installed in the stove. This will help in troubleshooting. Keep us posted. Thanks

[@tomduffy1397]

@@EarthSense took your advice and ran stove with cover plate off igniter was glowing red, still no ignition . As far as installing it correctly I only c 1 way that it will fit and fasten. I'm at a loss right now. I also changed the gaskets on the 2 doors as well

[@EarthSense]

Ok, so the igniter is working correctly in the stove then. Seated correctly in the cradle, and secured correctly to the burnpot. It has to be some kind of an air issue. How does your fire look when you manually start it? Is it crisp and touchy or is it in anyway lazy? Let's check the air intake throat and check the air intake flapper in the back to make sure it's free and opening correctly. If you have outside air check the intake vent and disconnect temporarily for troubleshooting. Let's also take a close look at the exhaust fan. If you have a multi-meter it should be running near line voltage during startup. Lets inspect yhe exhaust vent as well to ensure no obstructions. Again, it's the air rushing around the element that's lighting the fire so let's check these things. Also let's make sure the pellets are good and have not swelled up from moisture or anything of the sort. Let us know what you find. We'll get this figured out with you.

[@tomduffy1397]

@@EarthSense Good morning I emptied my bin and replaced it with a bag of fresh pellets, the intake seems to be working fine and the exhaust works fine on manual no blockage. On manual operation the fire is tight and bright

[@EarthSense]

@@tomduffy1397 Good Morning - Thanks for checking all those things Tom. I just spoke with our lead technician regarding. He wants you to check the ohms on the igniter. If you have a basic multi-meter, check the ohms - the igniter needs to read be between 45 and 50 ohms. Apparently there are cases where the igniter is getting red hot but it's outside of the operable ohm range and will not light the fire. He said he has seen multiple cases where the igniter ohms read 52 or higher, it's getting red hot but will not light the fire. Let us know what you find on that. Thanks,

[@nigellemaire8523]

I followed your instructions making sure that the yellow and blue wires are as far back as I could (but they were still on the igniter side of the rubber grommet. Now I'm wondering if I should have pulled the grommet out and ran the igniter wires to the outside of the grommet. The spade connectors would not pass through the grommet by pulling the wires, but the male connectors on the igniter wires could be "convinced" to go through. Leaving the connections on the "outside" of the igniter area. The stove worked perfectly for over a week until today and then nothing. No power indication. I verified that the unit has power, but the Power light is off. I'm going to look at the 6 amp fuse, but am a bit leery if it is blown... wondering if the igniter wires shorted out... I'm going to check the fuse tomorrow. Any advice would be appreciated. BTW - the written instructions I printed warned of "severe consequences" if these wires melt...but no indication of what that means exactly...sigh

[@EarthSense]

Nigel, thanks for contacting us. Sorry to hear of the difficulties. Yeah, should be able to disconnect those igniter wires from the front end (burnpot side) and then just simply pull the extra wire from the back once the new igniter is in place. If your connectors are on the other side of the rear grommet in the back then it would probably be easiest to disconnect from the back. From there I would remove the grommet and feed the igniter wires through for re-connection the the new igniter. If the igniter wires melt or any other wires for that matter it will generally create a direct short and blow out the circuit board. Based on what you are describing I would check the simple things first. Yes, check the control board fuse. Check the power cord connection. You can use a basic multi-meter to see where power is cutting out from the wall outlet to the stove. Keep us posted, we are happy to assist.

[@nigellemaire8523]

@@EarthSense THANK YOU for the quick response. I also emailed you folks when I (duh) noticed you had an address for technical questions... Sorry for the duplicate messages. I just checked the fuse - blown. Next is to re-check that the igniter wires (or rather the yellow and blue wires are ok. Then if all ok, I'll be ordering a new circuit board from you folks. I WILL make sure that the igniter connectors are on the "outside" of the igniter area. That seems the best way to eliminate any chance of them burning up from the heat. Simple enough to do. Kind of surprised that Harman didn't do this, since the igniter wires are long enough to accommodate... I want to say how much I APPRECIATE that you take the time to deal with technical issues. Most stores don't, which is a pity. I will use Email to follow up on my analysis. And, if necessary, WILL order any parts from your shop.

[@EarthSense]

@@nigellemaire8523 Thanks so much Nigel. Very glad we could be of assistance for you. You can always reach us here on KZbin or through our tech support email. Keep us posted, happy to assist and make sure you are back to 100%. Much appreciated!

[@billhuston8499]

This is a fantastic tutorial! I have an Absolute 63 which does not have the two 5/16 bolts holding the igniter bracket in place. Do you have any idea as to how to remove the bracket on this model ? It appears there is a button head screw inside the opening but not sure is this is the support mechanism.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks Bill! So glad it was helpful. For the Absolute 63, There is a latch that the button head screw holds to the bracket - so all you need to do is flip that latch and then the retainer plate will come loose and remove the igniter. Let us know if that makes sense - Always happy to help. Thanks!

[@billhuston8499]

@@EarthSense fantastic! Even easier than I thought.You guys are awesome! Thanks again.

[@EarthSense]

@@billhuston8499 Excellent Bill! Certainly our pleasure. Any future questions or needs let us know - we've got your back! Warmest Regards, Mr. Pellethead

[@EricDavidLaVoie1970]

Hello great video, just wondering what red silicone replacement should I purchace if I have the older model?

[@EarthSense]

Hey Eric, any high temp sealant will do. We offer something like this pellethead.com/product/nuflex-high-temperature-black-silicone-sealant-2-8-oz-part-n-302-2-7-htbl/ Any other questions or needs just give us a shout. [e-mail]

[@kenmorrison3200]

There are three screws holding on the back bottom side plates one has to be removed the other two are loosened as he suggests

[@EarthSense]

Thanks Ken! Yes, earlier P-Series models just had the two screws to loosen to remove the panel, more recent P-Series models have the additional screw that has to be completely removed. Thanks again, greatly appreciate your input here. Any questions let us know.

[@tnt666tnt]

Love your videos on the harman stoves. I just bought a P61A. Do you have plans of doing a video on how to wire a thermostat to the unit? thank you!

[@EarthSense]

Thanks so much Chris. The P61A will have a room sensor probe which works as the thermostat. Where you place the room temp probe is where it's going to be reading temperature from. We do offer extension wire if needed. Most folks will keep the room probe in the back of the stove. This video will show you a bit more on the controls and breakdown of operation kzbin.info/www/bejne/mYuoo6GwmZpmf6M Any other questions please let us know. Thanks again so much!

[@tnt666tnt]

Thanks. I did watch the video. We had a wireless thermostat remote with our old pellet stove(drolet stove- gas fire place wireless remote) . Its was nice to use the remote so I could turn the stove up a few degrees before I poured out if bed. I have seen what looks like wiring sechmectis online on how to wire that heat thermostat to the existing temp probe wiring. Have you seen this before?

[@EarthSense]

@@tnt666tnt Hey Chris, I just spoke to our lead techs on this. They did say they have seen folks install a thermostat utilizing the room temp probe wires, however they said that in the cases they have seen it didn't have the same accuracy on holding temp as the probe. Room temp probes are fairly inexpensive, so if you did decide to try it and wanted to go back to the probe it won't cost you an arm and a leg. Keep us posted, happy to help!

[@jimg1173]

How do you replace the auger in an XXV, mine sounds like it's cutting a pellet and makes a banging sound every 1-2 minutes.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for contacting us Jim, Happy to help. Early XXV models had a chain drive feed system, newer models have a direct drive feed system (no chain) Here's a video link below that will show you how to remove the auger motor in a chain drive feed system - direct drive is similar just less steps. Once you have the auger motor and sprockets out of the way (if applicable), you will have access to the auger shaft itself. There is a retainer holding it in place with two bolts which you will remove. Next a channel locks will be helpful to grip around the auger shaft end bearing so you can break the auger shaft loose and pull it out. Make sure all pellets are out of the hopper. I would also suggest you inspect the sawdust cleanout box and slide plate - could be an issue with that slide plate with the noise you are hearing. Sawdust cleanout box is located behind the auger motor and generally there is one or two wingnuts holding the cover on. When putting the auger shaft back in, it's important that you tighten the bolts on the retainer evenly. kzbin.info/www/bejne/d5bYlp6GfcmiedU Early Auger Shaft - pellethead.com/product/harman-auger-shaft-assembly-2008-and-earlier-models-oem/ Newer UL Auger Shaft - pellethead.com/product/harman-heatilator-ecochoice-auger-shaft-ul-feeder-oem/ Let us know if we can be of any further assistance. Thanks,

[@JamesDRobbins]

do the ground wires coming from the combustion blower and distribution blower have to be in a certain specific ground spot

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for the message James. The Green Ground Wire coming off the combustion and distribution should attach to the ground wire lead coming to the motor. The lead ground wire will generally be grounded to an area of the stove that has the thickest steel. If your motors ground wire doesn't have a lead wire, then I would suggest grounding it to the floor of the stove or the closest area where the metal is the thickest. Let us know of any other questions. Thanks

[@JamesDRobbins]

Earth Sense I should’ve been clearer but that’s not what I was asking lol but I got it figured out

[@EarthSense]

@@JamesDRobbins Oh, Ok. No worries James - Sorry if I misinterpreted. Glad you got it figured out. Any other questions please let us know. Appreciated!

[@estebanordonez3968]

Súper helpful! Thank you sir!

[@EarthSense]

You're most welcome, glad to hear. Any other questions let us know!

[@axeman1264]

is the pf100 igniter replacement the same?

[@EarthSense]

Yes, very similar replacement for the PF100. Email us direct at [e-mail] if you need assistance or further tips. Thanks!

[@rlhaas87]

I have a Harman PF100, it's not starting and we think that the differential switch tube might be clogged on the inside. Anyone know how to access it? It has a red silicone seal on the outside where it enters the stove and we don't want to break the seal if it's a necessary thing.

[@EarthSense]

Rebekah, If the differential switch/vac switch tubing was plugged the stove would not feed fuel at all and you would be getting a blink indication on your control board. If you are still having difficulty with the unit please email us; we are happy to assist [e-mail]

[@nathangerard1101]

Very Helpful, Thanks!

[@theheyseed]

Nice work and detailed explanation.

[@EarthSense]

So glad to hear it was helpful KC! Any future questions or needs please let us know. Thanks and Happy Holidays!

[@theheyseed]

No, I'm good. I replaced one a few years ago and was not sure I remembered all the steps. Your video was great on details. One thing I do did was mark the wires in back with a sharpie before pulling them through, that way I knew that when done I returned them into the original position.

[@EarthSense]

@@theheyseed That's great KC, Happy to hear that it was helpful. For future note, it actually does not matter which wire connects to which lead wire for the igniter - simply creating continuity when connected. Thanks again and if you do need anything just give us a shout. Cheers,

[@theheyseed]

Oh I understand that, I just wanted to make sure no slack was near the firebox.

[@EarthSense]

@@theheyseed Excellent! Yes, important to pull that slack from the wires all the way through and taught. Thanks again KC - have a stellar Saturday!

[@tomduffy1397]

Ok guys i checked the Ohms on the new igniter and it was at 47.2 ( the old igniter I replaced was at 52.7 ohms) also have 114 volts going into the igniter with the tester, reset everything still will not ignite ! what now ??

[@EarthSense]

Good morning Tom, thanks for your message. Your igniter is definitely in operable range at 47.2 ohms - thanks for checking on that. What model Harman do you have? During startup, how far are pellets being pushed up into the burnpot? More than half-way? One of two things I'm thinking here. 1. not enough pellets are being delivered into the burnpot during startup to fully cover over the area where the igniter lies beneath. 2. Potentially the burnpot gasket has gone bad and air is leaking around that area not allowing enough of the concentrated air to pass by the igniter to light the fire. Here is a link to the burnpot gasket pellethead.com/product/harman-burnpot-firepot-mount-docking-gasket-seal/ Keep us posted, we are happy to help anyway we can until we get this figured out with you. Thanks,

[@scrapplepig]

Tom I have the Absolute 43 and my stove wasn't igniting when it was new. After 3 visits from my dealer one guy noticed that I was missing the front piece on the ignitor bracket so the air wasn't circulating tight around the ignitor. Maybe?? Been working great till it burnt out again, that's why I'm back.

[@DubberGuy12]

Excellent video, thanks

[@ranckie]

Just wanted to point out that those two cover plate fasteners you loosened at the beginning are thumbscrews, not wingnuts. Your videos are very helpful, but one additional thing I'd add is, they would be better if you could try to cut down some of the extra chit chat. An example might be, if you're referring to cleaning something (like getting the saw dust out of the feed chamber on another video you made), just say "clean the sawdust out at about every 2 to 4 tons" instead of adding in "clean it by putting the nozzle of the shop vacuum in there and sucking it out"; we know how we're going to get it out. It just adds needless time to an otherwise great video. Same thing with loosening a hard to turn fastener, if we can't turn it with our fingers, we know we'll have to use pliers or a wrench. Just saying.

[@EarthSense]

Thanks for your feedback, appreciated!

[@scrapplepig]

Great video!

[@MsNailgun]

He's cute. Can he come clean my stove?

[@cowboy255]

Thank you!

[@dan27052]

I would be careful before purchasing Any Harmon product.. I bought a pf 100 furnace about 6 years ago, and it has NEVER worked correctly... These few videos is the closest thing to tech support you will get. There is no one you can call, you can’t even find a number for the company online. There is a dealer about 100 miles from me where I bought my stove, (pb farms in Virginia) who told me after I got it installed that he would come do a burn in test to make sure it was running correctly... I’m still waiting on him to get here.... So the first problem I had was there was no negative pressure in the hopper, this was due to the lid being slightly warped... The factory seals are flat rubber seals, so I had to change those with front door seals that cover more area. That fixed the first issue, then the igniter went out, so i replaces it... the the control board died (330 dollars). So I replaced that... now I think I have faulty wiring in it! The furnace cycles on, goes off and comes back on (like it suppose to). Then the status light stays on, and the exhaust blower continuely runs, but that all it does... the auger motor works by itself, the pressure switch works fine, and the status light stays on (no blinks)... I have an extra control board that acts the same way, so that’s fine.. so now I’m finding out they must have used crappy wires too... I guess the point is DONT BUY A HARMON!!!!

[@EarthSense]

Dan, sorry to hear of the difficult experience you've had with the Harman PF100 furnace. Harman is recognized as Top of the Line - we have over 7000 Harman stoves in the marketplace, over 1000 of those being the Harman furnaces. The overall customer satisfaction rating on Harman stoves is the highest of any manufacturer out there. Again, very sorry to hear of the troubles you've had. It sounds like your dealer has left you stranded without support and that is wrong. You can always go to Harman's website and look at their dealers tab to see if there is another closer to you. We are Harman's largest dealer, we offer all replacement parts at the best prices, along with tech support you can rely on. If you need further help or assistance we are right here, you can also visit our site at pellethead.com. Thanks.

[@scrapplepig]

Looks like Jim Morrison.

[@nigellemaire8523]

I think you should FIRST say unplug the stove... otherwise, very nice presentaiton

[@EarthSense]

Great note. Yes, very important to always unplug the stove first before doing any type of work with the electrical components. Thanks again!