How to Replace Rotted Trim on Exterior Stucco House

This is how I replace rotted trim on a stucco house in such a way to give a long lasting result. This repair is far better than the original way the trim was done when the house was built. Because it fits much better and engages the exterior of the stucco in a more water-proof way (due to the trimming of the stucco) and due to leaving the profile, rectangular, on the new trim alone. A router was NOT use to try to match the pieces that came off. Instead the new pieces were left whole and fitted in a better, more water-proof, way. Engaging the home more fully and eliminating the opportunity for water to enter, especially at the top.
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[@realtorflorida8789]

Thanks for the video but I think I would have put a tin drip edge above the top board to try and keep out the water.

[@ericmlevy]

Thanks for this video. I have to do this to a leaky window with rotting trim, and now I have a guide.

[@guitarfixx4652]

Make sure to use a polyurethane caulking and your leaky window troubles will be over

[@BigDave71]

Nice. Always safety first. I like that the angle grinder has the guard on. Too many guys take it off and I can’t stand that. It will remove fingers with wicked quickness. Thank you for this video

[@bridgetj3008]

Very helpful walk through of this. We need to replace most if not all of our moldings and sills. Hard to find people with the confidence to do this work.

[@guitarfixx4652]

Thanks for compliment. This job was done a few seasons back and is holding up WAY better than it was originally built.

[@briang5307]

Great video. All great information and a very thorough job. If you’ve ever worked on or owned a Tudor home, or plan to do so, this video is very valuable.

[@MLFranklin]

Great video. This is super helpful. I'm replacing an egress door and wasn't quite sure how to handle the brickmold (or lack thereof with a Home Depot metal door) around the frame, especially with the stucco complicating things. Most door install videos don't mention stucco.

[@stacyjerger4976]

This was so helpful, thank you!

[@KentSchneeveis]

😊

[@TheBoulevard44]

Kent, great demo on replacing trim on a stucco home. I'm bidding a project in the north bay with the exact same problem, and your video really helps! One thing I've learned over the (many) years...Sika flex is great caulking, but is also paintable. I've used it on several projects and it paints very well. You don't need to go over it with latex caulk. I use a rag with thinner to smooth it. I've also switched to using elastomeric caulking on all my exterior painting projects as it resists cracking/shrinking. I hope business is good and thanks for the video!

[@KentSchneeveis]

Hi - Good point. I have noticed that I Sikiflex is indeed paint-able now. Maybe some of the older stuff was not paintable. Good luck with your job.

[@dennisgarber]

All caulk shrinks. You will see less shrink with solvent caulk overnight. I do not see any harm by going over the dried oil with a 60 year water-based, as you will see some shrink as it dries.... After 10 years, I have witnessed dramatic shrink even with the poly, on million dollar homes, around windows....

[@jfarinacci0329]

thank you.

[@deanhough8993]

Helpful video. Thanks!!

[@tommunds-idaho]

M ski, that was my question as well

[@KentSchneeveis]

I should read the tube. Indeed. It says "paintable'

[@thenear1send]

Exactly the video I was looking for. Been interested in seeing this detailed. Do you have any experience with trim installed over top of stucco vs cut into the stucco? My house appears to have it installed over top.

[@KentSchneeveis]

That's the was this was. The trim had a profile that went on top of the stucco, resulting in directing the water into the structure. That's why this job was so rotten. Bad design. If I could of I would have put in a piece of metal flashing on top. But that would have required me to break-out the stucco, pull back the wire to install correctly. Then of course re-stucco around the trim. Cutting that stucco lip away, making it a nice straight surface, then fitting in the brick mold so that the trim fit into the stucco, using a polyurathane caulking, given the situation, was the best solution. Now the job weather worthy. I don't know how someone could think installing trim on top of stucco would be a good idea.

[@rockscrambler6700]

Yep, leaving that paper intact is key, to many other videos show them cutting that paper away, no bueno.

[@msudhirm1]

Would you be able to attach a roof like structure above the door so that water does not seep down ? If so can you do a video on that one ?

[@KentSchneeveis]

That would solve all the problems - or most of them at least. And make it much nicer, especially in the rain. I'll do a video on that at the first opportunity. Thanks for the support.

[@joebullock2151]

Hey great video. Just curious , why didn’t you use flashing above the top trim piece ?

[@guitarfixx4652]

I was originally going to use flashing on top. But to install properly it would have meant breaking out the stucco on top, to allow the flashing to fit in. It just would fit! I couldn't put it in. I tried. But I was ripping the paper, the nails for the existing wire were in the way. So instead I used lots of polyurethane sealant. Better to protect that way instead of buggering up things trying to force in flashing that is designed to be installed before stucco, not after. Furthermore, sometimes flashing is not really necessary, and in fact can trap moisture and create a habitat for mold, fungus, bigs, etc..

[@joebullock2151]

@@guitarfixx4652 thank you. Thank you.

[@johnwhite2576]

@@guitarfixx4652 i appreciate why you didn't do flashing-ive been there-but lets not kid ourselves, flashing is ALWAYS ideal. If you are trapping moisture behind the flashing you've got another problem you need to address0 Stucco is a superb material for drier climates, but a NIGHTMARE in temperate climates but people persist on still using it...nutty

[@SeeJaySea16]

Would this be the same concept for removal of stucco trim around your door or is that just a completely different process?

[@guitarfixx4652]

I would think that removing Stucco trim would be a different process. Often times stucco, if bad, can be patched. Keen an open mind while investigating the damage and you'll come up with a good solution. I'm sure of it!

[@JorgeHernandez-ib1px]

Great video! Question, I know you are matching the reminding good trim, but does the trim in general have to be that thick? If I am replacing the whole exterior trim can the thickness be optional? Can this process be used for entry door? Thanks for the feedback!

[@KentSchneeveis]

The stuff I'm using is called Brickmolding. It's not that good, it' primed pine. But that's the crap people use these days. If you have a better budget and can find it use redwood. Make the shape you need for your jub using a table saw if you can borrow one. That way you can make the pieces the size you need to fit. Each job is different. Yes, it's possible for an entry door. Anything is possible, be audacious and go for it. You can do it!

[@JorgeHernandez-ib1px]

Thanks for the info and encouragement!!!

[@KentSchneeveis]

My pleasure

[@johnwhite2576]

no flashing on top ?

[@KentSchneeveis]

Yeah, I know? In order to do the flashing properly I would’ve had to break out the stucco with the Bosch bulldog or something like that, and do a bunch of stucco work. Not perfect. Nonetheless, that Sikaflex polyurethane caulking will NEVER fail. And it worked well with the budget constraint of the client. Sometimes you got to do what you can. But I’m with your brother.

[@jaybeltran1184]

Not the best idea to use that caulking to fill those nail holes and line gaps. Over that the weather and heat will shrink the caulking and it will be very noticeable. I use either wood filler or they have some other gap fillings that won’t shrink.

[@KentSchneeveis]

Point taken. But I disagree about using another type of filler since from extensive experience I can unequivocally vouch for it falling out. Yes the caulking shrinks. That's why two coats of caulk are applied. The caulk lines are not all that visible. More importantly it's water tight, stays put for years. Unlike at wood filler. The type of caulking used here is correct. Thank you for your comment Sir.

[@montzilla]

dude you left moldy wood rot in the house? 🤦‍♂

[@KentSchneeveis]

Dooood…. With all due respect, the wood was solid. I let it air out and dry off. Then I hit it with an oil base Thompson water seal. Given the parameters and constraints. I believe this video shows a happy medium the homeowner got a good value and a good job. I was not there to rip off the whole backside of the house

[@MycobraII]

Just going to rot the same way without flashing. Water will absorb into the stucco and flow right behind that board. Thumbs down

[@KentSchneeveis]

Good question, agreed, flashing would be better. But to do the flashing properly would require breaking out the stucco exposing the wire, allowing for the flashing to be properly installed, tucking under the paper. Then bringing the new stucco out on top of the metal flashing. I did attempt to do the flashing, even had it on hand. Explained the process to the owner. Decided to proceed as in video. With due respect this repair is 500% superior to what was there. Job is close to home, owner knows where I live. I stand behind this work. Done well, as well as can be expected on this condo. Check back in ten years, it will still be sealed and holding up well (even without regular maintenance). I'll wager on that.

[@bubbawicklund5259]

I agree...shouldve used bituthene window/door flashing all around, covering all bare wood and then slide metal z bar flashing under stucco on the top door trim. Just because you did a good job 500% better than it was doesnt mean its the proper way to do a repair.

[@jsimmonsd]

nothing is better at all if it's not done properly.

[@dthorne4602]

​@@KentSchneeveisoscillating tool with carbide blade behind the stucco and paper to cut nails and then you slip it in. This is not a repair if you don't do that. Sorry.

[@KentSchneeveis]

Good point, cutting the nails w/multi-tool and carbide blade would get the paper in there a little further and be a better repair. Agreed. However I was able to get the new paper slipped under the existing paper and fuse those together with a polyurathane sealant. It's been five years, this is a repeat customer and the repair is performing stellar. Water tight weather proof , happy customer, good repair and a good value too. Totally agree about sneaking in there with the multi-tool and cutting the nails. Yes, it would be a better repair.