How to Replace Spark Plugs 13-18 Subaru Forester

[@1AAuto]

√ *Watch the Video* √ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto √ *Do it Yourself* √ *Save Money*

[@leonardodavinci303]

Nice video. Did the job today on my 2014 Forester. A couple tips. Do the passenger side first. Is easier and you will need the practice for the other side. Remove the airbox on the passenger side. You DO NOT have to disconnect the coil from the boot on this side and you can't mix them up do to wire length differences. Blow out the spark plug hole before removing the spark plugs. Stuff a towel between engine and fram rail. You WILL drop stuff! Use ONLY OEM spark plugs (NGK SILZKAR7B11 Iridium). Check the gap. Of 4 spark plugs, 3 were undergapped. Be careful on regapping not to damage the Iridium tips. Put everything back together and start the car for one minute. Should be smooth. Now go to the drivers side. Remove the battery and case. The front spark plug can be left connected to the coil. Unbolt coil and let it droop. The REAR coil pack must be disconnected to get out the boot. Behind and above the rear coil is some hose bracketry. Remove the brackets because it lets you approach the coil from the rear. This is the tough plug to remove. I used a 14mm spark plug w/wobble and a one inch extension, see below. Got it done. Recommend this from Amazon for this job Eastyard 14mm Thin Wall Magnetic Swivel Spark Plug Socket - 3/8-Inch Drive 12-Point

[@MichaelPSmith-mp1fk]

Wow! I must say, this was the clearest, best shot, most through , video on auto repair i have watched. Walked right through each step. Fantastic! Extra points for pointing out socket sizes each step of the way.

[@larryekman2078]

Excellent video. I was sure I had to go to a shop to have my plugs changed. After watching this video I felt sure I could do the job myself. Whoever put the script together did a great job as did the mechanic who took us through the process. One thing that I might recommend is that after removing the battery, start the plug replacement work on the passenger's side first. Those two plugs are much easier to access and this will help you to get familiar with the operations necessary for a minimal stress job. Things like unplugging the electrical fittings to the coil, deciding the socket extensions needed to get to the plugs, and developing a feel for the proper torque to be applied to the new plug are easier to do with the better access you hav e on the passenger's side. Thank you 1A. This video was a lifesaver.

[@1AAuto]

+Larry Ekman Thank you for your positive feedback! We are happy we could help.

[@dongkapuyawn5107]

Yes, great video instructions! Ill definitely tackle this come spring time. Passenger side first, check! Thank you

[@markcozine3666]

This is one of the best car repair videos I've seen. Clear instructions, well lit. I was able to do this for $86 all in. I had to buy plugs, spark plug socket and set of socket extensions.

[@RH-sf7lk]

Thanks so much for this video. After watching it, I convinced myself that I could handle changing the plugs myself on a 2015 Forester 2.5i. I'm not a pro, but I have some experience with DIY auto repairs and already had most of the tools needed except for a 14mm spark plug socket. It was a tight squeeze, but I got it done. It just takes the right tools, socket extensions and patience. I found that my magnetic pickup tool saved the day more than once. Local shops wanted upwards of $450 for this job.

[@dongkapuyawn5107]

Yeah, 700$ I was quoted but with coil pack…ill do this myself

[@kc62474]

Great job. Appreciate KZbin mechanics like yourself showing how to do the job properly.

[@claymeyer5046]

I talked to my dealership about doing this job myself, and the tech guy recommended that I put a jack under the engine and raise it about half an inch, which greatly helps the clearance on the driver's side plugs. I haven't tried it yet, but after watching this video, it looks like good advice.

[@TheStBlaine]

This might be a dumb question, but can that hurt any of the engine mounts?

[@jfresh214yt2]

@@TheStBlaine no just don't jack it up to high

[@scottfirman]

Just remove the rear coil wire and rotate the coil, no jacking required. Also use a shorter ratchet, a stumpy works best. I used a wrench to loosen the plug, a small pipe works too.

[@martinradtke5181]

Good thorough video that demonstrates a key mechanical trait - "feel" for proper torque. I've seldom used torque wrench for sparkplugs simply because today's cars are so tight you don't have room. 3 suggestions some DITYers will argue on. 1) I recommend a light touch of Dialectic Grease on sparkplug boots to facilitate next Sparkplug replacement at 120k miles. 2) with aluminum heads + steel sparkplugs you get corrosion. Suggest using Antiseize with old toothbrush and very thinly (like painting) brush on plug threads except last 2 threads closest to pistons 3) I don't trust factory....check Sparkplug gap to be .044". And take your time. No rush.

[@harrymaben2623]

Hi great video! Two points for a 2016 Forester manual trans. For mine the plugs were actually 14mm, 9/16 may work but 14 was a much better fit. Second there was no need to remove the bracket on the passenger side. Mine seems to be a different design then shown here.

[@williameident588]

Excellent video I've rebuilt hundreds of diesel engines , you do a clear, excellent video and narration , I've trained many young people, and never ever assume everyone knows the basics

[@martinradtke5181]

Changed the sparkplugs yesterday on 2016 Forester @ 62k miles. Difficulties: (1) I'm a senior citizen...it took me awhile to figure out where to press on the electrical connections to coils to release them. You have to squeeze near the wire end and simulatanously push towards back to release electrical connections to coils. Hard. That took finger strength and dexerity some folks may have trouble with. (2) the rear driver's plug was hard to remove. I ended up using a flex + 1" socket extension to R&R it. And I use very light amount of antiseize on sparkplugs. I found 2 plugs gapped more than .044". Had to regap those 2. The other 2 sparkplugs were at .044". The lubed plugs are easier to install using only fingers....then once bottomed I tightened about 1/8 turn until seated. I found I didn't have the correct sparkplug socket. Used deep socket. Good luck!

[@brianzimmer5532]

Do not use anti seize on spark plugs. They are designed so that you do not need it!

[@jamesmccarthy4210]

Just replaced spark plugs on my 2015 Subaru Forester. Video was very helpful. I used a grinder and ground out the ball on the extension. Made getting the socket and extension out a whole lot easier.

[@scottfirman]

I discovered ball extentions by accident. OMG! where have they been all my life! I bought all new extentions for all sizes I use 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2. I had to use one on my 2010 Forester for the Alternator bracket. Saved !my ass.

[@SoulSkis]

I did the same as well as grinding the ball off the ratchet handle. I had an extra to sacrifice and it made removal so much easier.

[@SoulSkis]

@@scottfirman We're talking about the retaining ball. But yes, ball wobble extensions are very handy for tight spots.

[@trevorshiffermiller2412]

Thank you. This looked like the turbo motor but it was almost identical on the 2.5 naturally aspirated. Worked great for my 2015 forester!

[@cyanidepain3452]

Videos like this is probably what keeps them nice

[@midhenry]

Best auto repair video I've seen. I very much appreciate the detailed instructions on removing parts in the way, advice on using multiple length extensions, and just the overall detailed step by step. Kudos!

[@jamesbusse1543]

One issue with the Subaru boxer is jumping when accelerating. I took mine in for this problem Quote was $6,500 for transmission R&R. I changed the plugs, Problem solved. Cost was less than 2 hours of my time and $45 for iridium plugs.

[@mcowley0]

Thanks for the great video, I was able to get this done in a few hours on my 2014 Forester XT. Howeever, many of the replies in this thread are quoting the incorrect spark plug gap (0.044"), it should be about 0.020" on the 2.0 turbo engine & the plugs come gapped from NGK at 0.024".

[@jkxss]

I love your how-to videos 1A Auto! I just did the driver side tonight and that one at 9:11 has such a tight clearance it was a pain in the butt with my 1/4" torque wrench (ignition coil bolt) and 3/8" torque wrench (spark plug). I want to say you almost need a extension that is 1 or 2 inches (I know 3" is common), or either a really long (so you don't need an extension), or really short (so a 3" would work) 14 mm spark plug 6-point socket. You also need a very small 10 mm 6-point socket that matches your torque wrench (you can't use a 1/4 to 3/8" adapter) for that ignition coil bolt if you want to use a torque wrench.

[@1AAuto]

+Jason Lee Thanks for watching and for the tip!

[@olafwonka]

I make my own cars maintenance and with videos clearest explanation on every step I don’t see why I have to take my cars to the dealer shop. Great job.thanks for your videos 👍

[@1AAuto]

+olafwonka Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c

[@jamesbusse1543]

Thanks... I used a universal on the end of the 14mm deep socket and a short extension. Worked great.. I did not use a spark plug socket but used a magnet to extract the plugs. Worked great and gives a bit of slop needed. Took out battery. Made it very easy. I took only the air filter cover off. I really don't like messing with the connectors if you don't have to. Opened up everything perfectly without taking off the air intake or intake box side of the filter, saved 10 min. First time through was about 1.5 hours. I bet a dealer does it in less than 1 hour. I do a should cost at $120 per hour that should cover the labor direct and indirect costs plus full retail on parts. This job's should cost for a dealer is about $180. what did they quote you? Everything above that is clothes for the dealer's wife.

[@SoulSkis]

Thanks for the video. I found it not that difficult although I don't have huge hands. Took about an hour. I didn't even bother to remove anything on the passenger side. I used a regular 14 mm deep socket, 3" extension with the retaining ball ground down with an angle grinder as well as the retaining ball on the ratchet handle ground down. This made taking the pieces out one by one so much easier. I also used a flexible magnet tool to retrieve the spark plugs and socket once unthreaded.

[@MrBZapf]

No need to separate the plug wires from the coil packs, they come out of the plug well with or without the wires on - save time and grief. Most important - when you are all done, your car is going to run like sh*t and stall at every opportunity. You didn't do anything wrong and your plugs are not defective. You disconnected the battery for long enough for the ECU to forget everything it knew. The first time you start her up just let it idle for 15-20 minutes. Finally, spend the $19 per plug to get the exact OE plugs. They will last for 120k miles making this a once or twice per car procedure. Well worth the extra bucks.

[@echo405]

This is exactly what happens to me after spark plug change. Shocked that my car didn't start good. I had to give gas pedal to start then it works fine. When I erase the code 7E8 7E9 car doesn't start so depress gas pedal while you start the card. Let idle for 20 minutes. We'll see what happens next. Thanks.

[@scottfirman]

Not on that driver side rear coil, it WILL NOT come out unless its is unplugged and the coil rotated with the plug side facing the front of the car(180 degrees). The front coil on the driver side can remain plugged in.

[@IanGuitarJams]

Thank you for this. Mine started okay and I let idle for 15 minutes. Idles fine. Then when I put in gear while stopped it was acting up, but that seemed to go away. Have driven around town ~25-45mph for 30 minutes and is still jerky when doing light acceleration around 35mph. Just wondering if it will go away soon.

[@IanGuitarJams]

Finally got a check engine light with a P0304, 4th cylinder misfiring message. Took that plug back out and sure enough it was cracked. Guess I over-torqued it. Couldn't get a torque wrench in there. Just an FYI if anyone else has this.

[@dongkapuyawn5107]

@@echo405 after idling for 20minutes, did the computer relearned and everything was ok?

[@mattreeves7644]

Thank you for this video--this made what would have been an impossible job for this shade-tree mechanic possible--ended by buying some slim-line ratchets and that did the trick!

[@1AAuto]

+Matt Reeves Thanks for the feedback!

[@vicever08]

Thanks for the video. There is a difference between knowing the path and walking the path. The difficult part for me is to get the spark plug socket and the little extension bar out. It can not be taken out together for the rear driver side, and it is also difficult to break extension bar and socket apart due to its awkward position. It is at least 5 times more difficult than a regular I4 engine. There are people jacking up the engine a little higher so the side-wall is not in the way, maybe that is a good idea. May try that after another 60k miles.

[@johnculver8707]

Great video, the only challenge i had was the electrical connectors to each coil don't seem like they're on very well no matter what i tried. I hope they don't vibrate off.

[@MikeHealy-yg7ph]

Good, well detailed video thanks. Maybe i am old school but i always put anti seize on plug threads and dielectric grease on the plug boot. From what i have read, Subaru recommends changing the plug boot when the plugs are changed. I often change out the coil packs when i change plugs.

[@1AAuto]

+@MikeHealy-yg7ph Thanks for the feedback!

[@GoPokes227049]

As everyone else here has said - excellent video, with great camera work and clear explanations. The only thing I would recommend is vacuuming the gravel and dirt off the frame rail on the passenger side to prevent any possibility of any of it going into the spark plug hole and into the engine. Also - is anti-seize compound not recommended for these plugs?

[@paule2658]

You got the wrong size spark plug socket in your description. It was 9/16 sae or for a better fit 14mm.

[@jkxss]

Prefer 14 mm since 9/16" is (14.2875mm). I have seen 5/8" mentioned as well, but that translates to 15.875 mm. 14 mm is most preferred, second choice would be 9/16" and 5/8" is preferred least.

[@Ozzy-tb3iq]

I miss distributors. Used to be able to change 8 spark plugs in about 15 minutes. They sure don't make cars easy for the average Joe to work on anymore.

[@1AAuto]

+Ozzy Thanks for the feedback!

[@paulreid3273]

Good video, only comment is I would use anti seize on the plugs and connection grease on the plug caps

[@tuneuptony3679]

great video, patience is the key. gonna tackle my wife's Subaru sparkplugs.

[@1AAuto]

+Tony D Thank you!

[@chooseymomschoose]

Yeah, I've heard horror stories about this job. Looks a bit more involved than a Toyota inline 4, but it's not hard.

[@kevinsmith5775]

Loved seeing the struggle like I went through. Should of done the cam covers and tube seals too

[@seansullivan4575]

Just did my 2015 forester plugs. Good video but I don’t know what year/model the one in this video was but there was no way I was fitting a socket wrench in the rear driver side plug without raising the engine. I had to use vice grips on the short socket extender and could barely remove them once I loosened the spark plug, it was a pain.

[@scottfirman]

Use a short stubby ratchet and you can skip jacking the engine friend. Plan on unplugging that rear coil pack. Not the front one though. I just replaced my plugs. I suggest in investing in short swivel extensions and a short stubby socket extention. I found a magnetic fish tool invaluable for dropped bolts. The battery tray needs to be removed on the 2016 Outback. Too many damn bolts holding in too.

[@MikeSorrell-lp7zf]

thank you just did mine today.passenger side is correct.drivers side didn't remove anything.after you get the idea what your doing the drivers side is easy...

[@Nope145]

Great video. I was hoping to do this service myself but obviously I’m not qualified. That’s a shame because I’ve done it on my cars in the past.

[@TK-ff5kc]

Did the plugs on a 2011 and was able to easily use a 3/8 torque wrench. Just need the right combination of extensions and swivels. 15.2 ft lbs.

[@pacermanrocks]

Great video many thanks I feel very confident to carry out the plug change now 🙂

[@1AAuto]

+paul waller Thank you! We are happy we were able to help.

[@jessesouthwick6467]

Spark plug sockets with built in universal joints make this job a bunch easier.

[@martinradtke5181]

Good step by step video. Doing 2016 Forester today. These cars have so little room that you have to torque plugs by feel.

[@jonathanb1987]

Use a universal and you will be able to.

[@leemoore8154]

@@jonathanb1987 I'd rather do it by feel than use a universal joint with a torque wrench. Unless it's very straight, you'll have torque loss with the u joint.

[@SuperLordHawHaw]

I may actually try this myself now. I've replaced plugs on one of my first cars. I just have to make sure I have everything I need ready because I don't have a 2nd car available to run to the parts store. lol

[@piaxtla9245]

Great video and instructions.

[@mikfax]

Thanks i mostly copied your instructions except i just left the coils plugged in and moved them out of the way no worries. Plus i spent a few hours with clr and a toothbrush polishing my alloy bits to better than showroom shine. Then hit the plactics with armor all and a bit of wd40 elsewhere. Plus i got a $12 borescope off ebay that let me get a video of inside my cyclinder and have a close up of the combustion chamber.

[@1AAuto]

+mikfax Thanks for checking us out!

[@samkitty5894]

Thanks for changing my mind about buying one of these cars. I'm staying away. No one should have to lift the engine or remove engine parts in order to change sparkplugs. Stupidity of some designs amazes me.

[@myunk]

Why did you take the wire harness plug off of the coil pack? You can just leave it connected and move the coil pack out of the way. Shouldn't you use anti seize on the spark plug threads too?

[@jgzero18]

This is a Forester XT with a 2.0 turbo that they’re working on, my 17 2.5 non turbo looks different. The spark plugs are much more accessible

[@bonconfidant7514]

That would explain why my 2017 2.5i base model does not resemble the one in this video. There is a big-ass cowling that blocks access to that area, not seen in this vid, and possibly other structures in the way. It's quite a tangle. Or maybe I am looking in the wrong place as you say that for you they are much more accessible...

[@adzample]

@@bonconfidant7514 did you work out how to do it on the 2017? Would be interested to know

[@BicycleCrossroads]

Would a 1/4 inch torque wrench fit in the gap? Can probably convert inch pounds to foot-pounds. Don't know if anyone has tried that. I liked that one comment about using a jack underneath the engine to give yourself a bit more clearance. I guess the age and wear of the engine mounts might make a big difference in clearance.

[@arnoldadighibe9069]

Very detail and thorough. Well done. Thx.

[@oa06442]

I was going to DIY on my 2018 forester.....but it looks difficult and time consuming. A pro would take 2.5 hrs to do with years of knowledge and all the available tools. I don't want to work on my car all day and "maybe" do it right.

[@scottfirman]

On the 2016 the battery tray has to come out. It is over engineered with too many bolts. You MUST unplug the harness on the driver side rear coil pack in the back and rotate the pack around to get it out of the frame area. The front driver side one DOES NOT need to be unplugged. Expect to drop bolts and the metal coil clip in the plastic pan under the car. It's easier to remove the one threaded bolt(12 mm) On the tray then remove just the darts on the side of the plastic tray and you can pull down the tray to remove any dropped bolts.

[@pjrbaldo]

Is it really necessary to unplug the coils?

[@fernandojalon5033]

Thanks I did mine on a legacy2015 hell of a job. Everything went well and my mpg improve from 28.5 to 33 nog. Why is that this engines has to have a change in fifty K miles. And I found out that the two front windows need to be reset after you have to disconnect the battery for couple of hours. That was insane.🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔

[@1AAuto]

+Fernando Jalon Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com

[@Kiss__Kiss]

Welcome to the world of Horizontally Opposed engines. Love them!!! Especially the new 2.0 DIT engine.

[@jacksondiamond01]

Thank you for this video. Make changing my plugs a breeze.

[@1AAuto]

+Russ Knezic Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com

[@yahoo547]

i noticed you did not raised the engine block as some mechanics do, is it really necessary to lift the engine block

[@dannywills9339]

What Kind of gloves are those? They look like they would be great to use !

[@jairofernando7231]

Deberia usar una llave dinamométrica para evitar daños graves.

[@roogermoore1]

They have magnetized spark plug sockets. Would that be better or worse than the foamed one

[@JL-dc2mk]

To be honestly I was planning to find a video to learn to replace spark on 2016 forester xt, however after I saw your video I want to sell it and replace to a toyota now.

[@supermick83]

You shouldn't be doing anything engine related if you can't manage this simple task. Go get your Toyota 👍

[@nicolasriva7605]

Excellent !! Perfect Nico from France

[@ml.2770]

If you buy a 14mm thin walled, ball swivel spark plug socket you'll have an easier time.

[@DavidHeyburn]

Video says "9/16 spark plug socket" - description lists "5/16 spark plug socket" - which one is it for this make/model?

[@dreamrelaxation7239]

Do you need anti seize on these spark plugs?

[@TakeDeadAim]

Iridium plugs will last much longer than 100k if the engine isn't burning oil. No need to even go through all of this unless your MPG suddenly drops or there's a noticeable loss of performance. IF the car is still running well...don't bother. I've gone 200k on Iridiums in my Silverado and even then I pulled a couple and they STILL looked good.

[@thuthiehiker]

Very helpful. I did it all by myself.

[@roberthumphreys1316]

That was a really great how to video! Thanks.

[@1AAuto]

+Robert Humphreys Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com

[@onehunter1462]

Thank you very much. Great video.

[@ty88]

Really, really well-made tutorial. Thanks!

[@curtklebaum]

I notice you did not apply anti-seize to the threads. Is that an oversight or do you feel that anti-seize is unnecessary?

[@CardizoneSemblance]

If you live in area where rust is a problem then it would be beneficial to apply antisieze

[@Abdallah1910]

Good job, 5/5 video thank you man

[@1AAuto]

+Abdallah1910 Thanks for the feedback!

[@nuttietrendchannel4265]

WARNING. WARNING. WARNING. beware while using the extension, I got them blocked and stuck because of using the wrong LENGTH of extension. if you are doing it and got your stuck, too. This is what I did. Got a hand held Metal Cutter, and Blades. I got mine from Lowes (forget trying to save money from Harbor Freight, they don't work right), and Patiently cut out the extension. Try to hold the extension out with tape. It would take some time, but little by little it would come out.

[@basedSTi]

Nuttie Trend Channel howd u get the extension in but couldnt get it out?

[@SoulSkis]

@@basedSTi I'm trying to figure that one out as well. Sounds like maybe the retaining ball was making it challenging to separate the pieces.

[@simonkurtz]

Why wasn't a little bit of anti-seize compound carefully applied to the new plug threads? Doing so ensures they come out more easily next time you need to change them.

[@simonkurtz]

Also, a little bit of dielectric grease at the bottom of the boot keeps out moisture. I didn't see that in this video either.

[@1AAuto]

+Simon Kurtz Thanks for the feedback!

[@jianzhimeng1698]

one question, do I need to gap the spark plug?

[@SVO77489]

Thank you so much for video step by step.

[@1AAuto]

+Sang Vo Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c

[@RESPAWN1983]

Whars the gap 4 the plugs?

[@VideoNOLA]

Factory iridium plugs should take you to 100,000 miles without need for service. Hate to think any Fozzie owners are doing this prematurely. Stick with iridium for longevity, btw.

[@caseyboyett2946]

Can you please do a video on the master window switch for a 2015 traverse? The other video for the older models doesn't apply. Thank you

[@1AAuto]

+Casey Boyett We currently do not have an auto repair video that covers this particular repair for your vehicle. We will keep this request in mind in the event that we need to make this repair in the future. 1aauto.com

[@MacAutoDiag]

What engine is this? Idk why you guys never include what engine it's for as if all cars use the same engine. Crazy

[@VE8HL]

I cannot get the coil pac wire to lock...no matter how hard I try. Is there a secret?

[@dennycain1932]

FYI its a 9/16" spark plug wrench, not a 5/16"

[@timothywoodward2555]

How long did this take in total? The local Subaru dealer wants $440 to do this

[@spamlessaccount]

You know you watch too many YT videos when you recognize the generic YT background music from another channel you watch. . Another great video, though.

[@leonardodavinci303]

Dont bet on the factory gapping the spark plugs correctly. Spec is 0.044. 50/50 out of the box

[@als4621]

Excellent video! Thank you!

[@1AAuto]

+Al Salazar Thank you for the great reply. We love to empower our customers by showing you how-to perform your own auto repairs while installing our high quality auto parts. Have a great day! 1aauto.com

[@dunastrig1889]

Awesome video, thanks so much!

[@jjjjjjjjjjjjkjjj]

Ngk Rutheniun plugs ok or go with oem?

[@klmnlifts]

how much the price of each spark plug for 2014 forester.

[@VideoNOLA]

Forgot the blast of compressed air at 12:45, and again 2x on the passenger side ones, although that engine seems rather clean anyway.

[@ericp3573]

Wow what a pain, 30+ minutes and removing engine parts to replace plugs. Good thing the OE NGK are rated for 60K+

[@Camilo19832001]

Not a pain if you have the right tools

[@Deefoz]

Is this the same as the non turbo 2.5

[@gregkoontz865]

couldn't you use the swivel extension on the spark plug socket?

[@jonathanb1987]

Yes

[@ricksonora6656]

I have some four-letter words for Subaru’s maintainability engineers. This is absolutely ridiculous. I could replace all eight spark plugs of my old Dodge in five minutes.

[@garygullikson6349]

Be very careful not to drop parts/tools down inside the engine compartment.

[@hahahahah8396]

Thank you so much

[@1AAuto]

+Haha Hahah Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c

[@mrmrsmartillier7752]

What's the correct gap for these spark plugs for FB engines

[@martinradtke5181]

.044"

[@stevekappes912]

Maybe think about cleaning/detailing while you are in there. You might sell some cleaning supplies as well as not driving people like me nuts. :)

[@jimi35294]

Nice video, which is just what I need for my 2015 Forester. What did you spray on the coil connectors? Thanks.

[@JChivers]

wd 40

[@MichaelPSmith-mp1fk]

@@JChivers is that what he meant by "water displacement oil?"

[@ValueAudio]

Yes, it works.@@MichaelPSmith-mp1fk

[@koldenrjk]

You didn’t have to raise engine?

[@CadenBrockbank]

Shop is charging 650 for labor and parts for this. Am I getting ripped off?

[@silverS70]

Yes!

[@darrellhambley7245]

Why can't you just unbolt the coil without removing the connector? The coils can just hang there while you're replacing the plugs, no?

[@1AAuto]

+Darrell Hambley It is recommended that these be removed and not left hanging during this replacement. Thanks for watching.