How to replace the right front axle seal, 2000 Chevy Suburban 4X4.

This video describes a method to replace a leaking right front axle seal in a 2000 Chevy Suburban 4X4.
This video is made for entertainment purposes and is not to be construed as an instruction guide. I am not a professional mechanic so you should bear in mind that a professional might have accomplished this task very differently. If you need advice regarding how to repair your vehicle, you should consult a qualified professional. Remember also to take all appropriate safety precautions, certainly use safety glasses, and remember to carefully test your brakes after any vehicle repair. If you attempt to repair your vehicle, then you do so at your own risk.

[@Mondo_0ne]

9 years later and this video is still sharing insight!! Thank you for the great video bud!

[@tortureborn]

Very nice quality for a video of this age. Great info, thanks for posting.

[@NAHAAFB]

Medial aspect, how cerebral of you. I like your channel you do a good job explaining each steep and any issues that one might encounter.

[@mattkelly6880]

Thanks. As far as the guts go the 95 seems to have the same set up as the the suburban as far as assembly goes. Different seals and parts im sure but these videos will help with a large range of years and models of chevy/gmc vehicles. Good stuff thanks for the video and references

[@geralddb789]

Excellent quality video!

[@bearing01]

I didn't watch the other videos you recommended. Your video seemed quite informative and I'm sure it will help others facing this problem. Thanks /John

[@d46512]

Long time viewer and recent owner of a 2008 Tahoe. Your video was a big help. I got lucky: that troublesome snap ring remained on the axle without a fight. GM probably tweaked the design for the '07-13 generation. My factory gasket was still serviceable for resealing the axle tube. My luck ran out when I found glittery flakes in the oil (190 000 km). A bearing kit / rebuild may be in my future. No need to remove CV joint. Lower the entire diff below the CV joint. Viewers are wise to have a transfer pump on hand. Last thing you want is to be stuck at 99% complete! You can improvise with a funnel, hose, and more patience than I have.

[@spelunkerd]

Good points, thanks for recording your thoughts here!

[@brandonwarfel6960]

Thanks for the video it helped a lot. A couple things I learned is that the skf 12587 seal is better than the national you mentioned. Skf is rated down to -40f where the national is only-20 and also anaerobic flange sealant is proper not rtv. Also torque specs I believe is 34ft lbs for the housing bolts.

[@brandonwarfel6960]

Also wanted to mention to be very gentle reinstalling the axle shaft or your new seal will leak, they are very fragile

[@roadtrip1098]

Great video, the H3 has the same basic assembly. I was going to go to a dealership, but now I may tackle this at home. Thanks.

[@airdoct]

Great video, thanks. I just did both left and right on my 2001 GMC Sierra. I did it with out jacking the truck or taking the tires off. I also put it in 4 High. When I pulled out the right side axel, the inner axel came with it making it a challenge to fish it out, but after I did get it out, I put the inner axel back into the differential and the the assembly was not a challenge. On the left side, I just unbolted the axel and used a piece of wood and hammer, 5 hits and it was out.

[@alm7707]

smear that eared washer with grease to keep it in place when installing the right assembly back on the diff, don't let the axle push in or the eared washer falls out of place. The axle has to turn freely after installing, if not then the washer is out of place. Good video, maybe some of the terms were too technical. but hey you got the job done! Thanks.

[@airdoct]

@spelunkerd The inner axle that came out was just free floating, no "c" clips on either side to hold it in. It just added about 6 inches to to right axle shaft assembly when I took it out so I had to pry the differential around to get the clearance to fully remove it. Once I had it out I realized that it should have stayed in and nothing was holding the shaft in place so I slid it back in the differential and continued with the brake down of the right shaft as you described.

[@spelunkerd]

@airdoct Thanks for recording your experience, for those who later view this video. I wondered if that medial shaft was held in with a C-clip, and I wondered if it would require dismantling the diff to get it back in. Glad it wasn't too difficult. Dave

[@sambeano024]

Just wanted to tell you thanks for posting this. After seeing your video, I've replaced the outer seals, left and right, of both my '88 Chevy truck and my wife's '93 GMC Suburban. Same set up, more or less. Seems you've got a little more maneuvering room under the newer models, because I had to wind up dropping the entire diff after removing the right tube, to do the left side.

[@mr.g2660]

Very detailed good video , I've been looking for a close up on the shifting mechanism or locking of axel and you took care of that, thank you

[@8__mi]

thanks for the attention to detail .... you just saved me a bunch of time.

[@spelunkerd]

Thanks, David. When I look back at this video, it's not nearly as good as others I've done. But it does include details that weren't shown elsewhere, and I'm glad it is still useful. I'll guess that yours is probably similar, but you should look for a dealers manual for more info. Even slight differences could be critically important.

[@DirTyOhGee]

DANG!!! That looks like a process! Good job and good video...I own a 2001 Chevy Silverado...I feel like going out and checking the axle seals now.

[@spelunkerd]

Thanks for the feedback. When I can get to it I'm planning on doing the driver's side.

[@22kpar1xcyberdyne9]

Great video. I use ultra black silicone. It will seal the Titanic and most importantly last, and.... it can be taken apart again verses locktite or cheap rtv basic silicone that lasts 6 months. Also, silicone threads and bolts will never vibrate out. I also silicone outer seal lips and inner seal lips get a good smear of grease, then assemble with no worries of having to do the job over.

[@BhBlackfly105]

Excellent video! Details the entire axel shaft. About to tackle this project.

[@spelunkerd]

Thanks, man. I'm just finishing a new video on the left axle seal and leaking vent opening for the same vehicle.

[@kendallbrown7370]

Thanks Doc, figured by the medial lateral aspect talk you would start stitching it up after awhile ha ha,

[@spelunkerd]

Ha ha, previous life. Thanks for watching.

[@kendallbrown7370]

Did this today, not too bad. I had to remove my CV axle shaft to pull the axle off. Thanks for the very instructional video!! I don't think I could have done this without your help.

[@spelunkerd]

I'm glad it helped, thanks for the followup.

[@spelunkerd]

@memorycdrew I understand. One other thing I could have done is remove the axle and that way make room to pull the axle tube straight out laterally. But looking back at this, the way I did it was also very simple and easy. If I had to do it again I probably would do it the same way I did it here.

[@spelunkerd]

Thanks for the followup, Matt. Nice to meet you. Dave

[@spelunkerd]

@bearing01 Thank you, John. Of course the best way to do this is to film it as each step is done. That method is time consuming, and sometimes you run into technical problems regarding the video. As much as I prefer to watch that method, I used a quicker approach with this, filming part way through. It's not perfect but hopefully it gets the important parts across. Dave.

[@mattkelly6880]

agreed. spinning helps. I was smashing the thing with no luck until i finally spun it in the right position and it only took a good whack. I believe if you look very closely at the axle splines you can see the splines where the retaining washer is suppose to go are worn/rounded more at the top. I could have also been drunk and delusional so dont quote me on that

[@bbyeahwhatever]

Very helpful! Thanks!

[@poormansyoutube686]

Thanks for this vid

[@spelunkerd]

yeah, mine slipped in but I know what you mean. I think the ring can bind if it's at the wrong angle and it won't go that way. spinning and trying again seems to help.

[@spelunkerd]

On the right side, usually easy. On the left, variable but either easy or hard. A TSB was released for the left saying to rock the axle up and down to center that ring clip, to allow axial pressure to squeeze it inward and allow the axle to come off. My left seal is leaking a little, so when I have time I'll video the left.

[@memorycdrew]

Hey man, its quite simple to remove the swap bar end links. Just put vise grips on the lower threaded plate and blast out the bolt with the impact. Pretty simple if you ask me.

[@spelunkerd]

When I look back at this video, it's not a great or thorough effort. Mainly it was done to supplement the video Briansmobile1 did, which was complicated by a camera malfunction half way through. I guess I could have done a shot of it all put back together, but I doubt it would add much. Sorry, I can't help with the roller bearing since mine was OK and never replaced. What motivated me to do the video was absence of others -- you might pay it forward and post one. Thanks for the sub!

[@TheBrocBell]

I just replaced mine, and the only problem I came across was getting the gear with the retaining ring back on the axle shaft. Took quite a few good smacks but it finally went.

[@spelunkerd]

As I recall, GM modified the design of their trucks between 1995 and 2000, and so it may well be different. I'll have a look tomorrow -- if I can read the numbers I can list them off for you, though even then it would be a guess. As you know, the most reliable way to get parts is to have the old part in hand when you go to the parts store, though getting to the store without a vehicle is sometimes a problem.

[@spelunkerd]

When I have time I'm going to do the axle seal on that side and I'll video the effort. According to Alldata the trickiest problem on the front left is that the axle is held in place by a ring that can bind. In a memo from Chev they say to tip the axle up and down to center the ring, which should allow it to compress symmetrically, and then pull out. However in your case the vehicle is a lot older so the procedure may be different. I would try to get my hands on a dealers manual....

[@RICKAFIX]

mine has the leak to but mostly annoying to see. But those roller bearings would be effected by a leaking seal only if all the fluid leaked out??? Pulling off those would be the next step before i pull the plug on a rebuild. I'll see If I can record it tomorrow before and after i Install the axles. Thanks Spelunkerd....l

[@crossingthemountain]

Anatomy professor or doc by chance? Sound like you could do a good anatomy video along with these

[@spelunkerd]

Thanks for your feedback! My left is starting to leak, and Alldata don't say anything about dropping the diff. Did you have trouble getting the medial stub shaft out after removing the left CV axle?

[@rmartinez1100]

great video need to that to left side will that be the same steps for pulling the axle but what in working on is a 93 chevy 4x4 3500 dually axles look the same

[@8__mi]

5 or 6 good strikes with a rubber mallet. i had a leaking seal and a little racket when in four wheel drive. After the gear came off the axle shaft, i noticed that the washer with the two flanges that seats against the tube was damaged. i could have possibly done it while smacking it with the rubber mallet but i highly doubt it, i didn't use that much force. There were no flanges, & the washer was inside the tube and had rotated to a funny angle. hopefully this solves my noise!

[@briansmobile1]

Great video! I would love to host this as a video response to mine.

[@spelunkerd]

You're welcome, Bryce. I'm just editing a full video of the left side axle seal. I did a much better job of documenting it this time -- it should be ready in a week. Dave

[@tankdog03ify]

how come nobody has a video removing the needle bearing on either side? and part # for the bearing

[@sambeano024]

Not sure how much of a difference there is between the GMT400 platform and the 800 platform, but on the '88 to '98 series, you can't take the left side CV axle out, unless you remove the upper ball joint and throw out your alignment, doing it that way. or just take the whole diff assembly out. And if the CV axle stays in, not enough room to drive the stub shaft out. I wanted to remove it and thoroughly clean it, since it has been getting water in the gear lube.

[@clowntickles]

great video and attention to detail. Do you think my 1999 tahoe 4wd is the same?

[@supermotofreak14]

My 08 2500 had the same set up basically. I have to replace that bearing. It's shot and causes a vibration in 4x.

[@BreathDoctor]

Very good video, but why not show the housings clean and tidy upon rebuild ? And what about that roller bearing in there. I've got one for my truck, but cant find a breakdown showing how to install it.

[@hdrjunkie]

When you took the axle tube off, was there a gasket on the flange? I have an 04 yukon awd and cannot find any info on if there’s a gasket or not so I can get it ordered before I start the job. Thanks!

[@spelunkerd]

Sorry, I don't remember. If it is not in the video, it is lost.

[@spelunkerd]

That's never happened to me, Bruce. Briansmobile1 alluded to this in his video and I think if that happens you may have to put it back in place from the inside with a long set of pliers. You might have to remove the diff and get at it from the other side. Did this happen to you? If it did, I would appreciate you recording your experience here to improve the thread for anybody who reads this later. Bad luck!

[@spelunkerd]

Not sure. That 2000 year there was a design change, but axles tend to be used for many consecutive years.

[@kenman1717]

Very informative. Did you have much trouble dropping that axle tube down once you unbolted it? Sometimes they are a pain, and you pretty much have to unbolt the whole front diff so you can change its angle to get the tube off, and some times you even have to take out that right cv axle. I think it has a lot to do with year and whether its a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton, I can't remember exactly. Another question, that washer you pulled out that had the ears on it that just sat in the slots of the tube, was there another washer with it. The older ones usually have 2 washers, one with ears and one regular, and they make up a certain thickness but if you ever need to replace them there is a new update one with ears that is thicker, that replaces both. I have ran into that before took everything apart to do the seal and one ear was missing and ground up in that sliding sprocket and gear.

[@spelunkerd]

In my case dropping it was pretty easy, I didn't have to do anything with the diff. It's been so long since I did this that I don't remember much more than is in the video. No extra washers than what was shown. Those are good points that you make, and they should be a warning to others who see this to be prepared for difficulties that are not encountered here. Sometimes things look too easy when you see them on screen.

[@LtSplatter]

that c clip your talking about is causing me a world of trouble on my 2000 silverado. we cant get the axle out to replace the seal just as this video describes.

[@spelunkerd]

@briansmobile1 Sure, Brian, let's do that. I think these complement each other nicely. Dave

[@natej1222]

Is this the same technique as a 2008 suburban? I hope so, this doesnt look too bad

[@MRTIM49017]

how hard is it to get that gear off the axle shaft itself so you can pull the axle out of the tube?

[@razorsharpbt124]

I am having problems sliding the right axle out of the differential because of the mounting bolts sticking down from the lateral mount, if that makes sense. I've loosened the mount and tried to push it up out of the way, but it is not giving me enough clearance to remove the axle. Do you have any ideas? Thank you!

[@spelunkerd]

I'm sorry, it's been so long I don't remember. Anything not in the video is lost. There may be better descriptions in more recent videos online.

[@chriswheeler5150]

When you get a chance will you look at my videos and look at the one that is 3 seconds long and tell me if you think the bearing in there could be the caise of the grinding and popping noise?

[@hdrjunkie]

How did it work with just the RTV sealant? Any leaks? I’m about to reassemble mine and have to use the gasket maker, Gm didn’t use any gasket on the 04 AWD units.

[@spelunkerd]

Worked fine, I still own the Suburban and haven't had to revisit the right side since then. The 4WD still works well. I did replace a front transfer case speed sensor, shown in a couple of other videos, unrelated to the front axle. And I've been into the left front axle twice, also recorded on video.

[@hdrjunkie]

@@spelunkerd well it’s all back together, charged up the battery and didn’t get a chance to road test it yet except for driving back and fourth in the driveway in regular drive and in 4 wheel low and there were no weird noises or anything and I also noticed the “service front differential” warning went away… I’ll see how she rides tomorrow and hopefully there’s no leaks around that housing. Thanks again…

[@poormansyoutube686]

Hey do you happen to have a trick to put the axle shaft back in while it's still on the truck my Came out when my cv popped how do I put shaft back in locked?

[@spelunkerd]

The main thing that keeps it in place is the integrity of the CV axle. With an intact axle it has nowhere to go.

[@ArmaAceChannel]

I put UV dye in my Sierra 5.3 engine oil and went under the hood tonight and noticed my driver side axle is glowing. not from the dye i dont think but maybe the color of the fluid glew natural under the light. its weird because my engine has been loosing oil and have to ad quart every month. starting to think all that oil splashed on my oil pan and bell housing is all just from the axle. Can older cars loose oil thru regular combustion?

[@spelunkerd]

Yeah, usually with black smoke out the exhaust, from oil that creeps past worn rings into the combustion chamber. You could do a compression test to help diagnose that. As you know the diff oil is not in contact with the engine oil, so it shouldn't glow. I've seen coolant glow naturally but I don't remember diff oil glowing naturally under UV light. But maybe engine oil was dripping onto it, or perhaps spraying onto it from the rear main seal.

[@ArmaAceChannel]

spelunkerd maybe the previous owner put dye in the front differntial its so wierd because i didnt notice it earlier in the day nor did i see any dripage from above

[@thor_bc5929]

ArmaAceChannel I would go buy some gear oil and compare it. Also might try checking the oil cooler lines. Just a thought.

[@06summit]

video was well put together, briansmobile1 was good for removing it. thanks for the info

[@bjammin1387]

i think i might have forgotten to replace the first washer you took out, as i found something similar in my garage yesterday... been about 3 months

[@spelunkerd]

It might be wise to have another look.

[@spelunkerd]

Thanks.

[@mattkelly6880]

its just a shot in the dark. the diagrams i have been able to find show the exact same set up. doesnt mean ratios, lengths etc. are the same but it would be nice to know how similar the guts are

[@mattkelly6880]

any chance of getting the part number off of the shaft housing assembly? Im about to tackle my 95 gmc k1500 and just want to confirm that it is a different model bc the national seal part number called for a 71010 and looks way different from the one you have installed. My housing number is 26033234-2 it should be raised numbers visible from underneath.

[@eastboundtrucking]

is there a link to take me to the two videos that you referred?

[@spelunkerd]

Try Google, over the past 9 years it is amazing to see the exponential growth of content. As I recall, one was by the channel Briansmobile1, perhaps search his channel.

[@eastboundtrucking]

@@spelunkerd yeah great! or you could just provide a link that I could click on. since you did take the time to reference the video. I also might get more than one result in my tech giant search.

[@LOGOYDA]

I have about an eighth of an inch of play left and right in my axle shaft. Any ideas what it could be or how crucial it is to fix?

[@spelunkerd]

Movement can be directional and it is hard to say without feeling the movement live. You could post a video and ask people to comment. It is normal for the shaft to slide in and out slightly along the axis of the shaft, but completely abnormal for the wheel to wobble at 9:00 and 3:00 or 12:00 and 06:00.

[@sean.g4516]

I'm jst tryna c how do you change the seal

[@spelunkerd]

I crawled under and had a look. My number is 26058833 with F-11 underneath that. Good luck, Matt.

[@artyfernandez7680]

Does this take a normal axel bearing

[@spelunkerd]

Yes.

[@chriswheeler5150]

Ill try to capture the sounds its making in a video and post if online.

[@shanek6582]

Do you know if the steering box needs to have oil or grease checked? I'm going to change my pitman arm, seems like the steering box should take oil like the differential but I can't find any info, thanks.

[@spelunkerd]

No routine maintenance but check for grease nipples when you're underneath and give a squirt of grease to any nipples you find. Old cars had grease nipples everywhere, new not so much, but have a look at boots to be sure none are torn. Of course check the power steering fluid reservoir dipstick, different levels for hot or cold. Power steering fluid is lubricating, so it serves both hydraulic and lubrication functions. Old style pitman arms had a grease nipple on the top, it may be hard to see from underneath but you should be able to find it with a mirror. Conventional pitman arm steering has mostly given way to rack and pinion steering, though my dodge still has a pitman arm. They can be a bear to remove. Note that this Chev in the video has a double wishbone suspension (with torsion bars) so to test the ball joints you need to lift up on the lower control arms so the lower ball joint is unloaded. I do that after mounting the frame on jack stands so the opposite wheel doesn't confuse the diagnosis.

[@shanek6582]

Thank you sir, for your videos and the quick answer to my question, I appreciate it. I've got a 2003 gmc duramax and just got a front end replacement parts kit. It's got the cv axles, wheel bearings, pitman arms, upper control arms ect. Napa is going to have the front axle seals for me tomorrow, i wouldn't have even thought about trying all this without some KZbin videos, including your videos about those axle seals. I'm a little concerned about that clip inside the front diff coming out and falling inside the diff, I'm screwed if that happens, cross your fingers for me please! Thanks again.

[@spelunkerd]

Good luck, I hope it works out for you.

[@hilarious5747]

Do you have to drain the gear oil in order to replace seals?

[@spelunkerd]

When you take the shaft out, if you haven't drained the gear oil, some of it will spill all over your floor, and then more will drain down your arm when you pry the seal out. If you have ever tried to work around a pan, you know it's awkward because you keep dipping your elbow into the pan oil, and you keep bumping the pan with your arm and wrench, and then it splashes up on your clothing. If you drain first, it's cleaner and you can slide the drain pan out of your way once it's all drained. This is a good opportunity to drain all the oil and replace it with fresh oil.

[@hilarious5747]

Thanks verry helpful video. I will do that

[@chriswheeler5150]

Do you know anything about that bearing inside there? Do you know signs of it going bad?

[@spelunkerd]

The wheel bearing on the outside more commonly goes bad, and of course the CV joints take a lot of abuse. I would expect howling or moaning or whining at higher speeds, much like a bad wheel bearing.

[@chriswheeler5150]

All I know is im getting a new sound. And the sound is terrible sounds like a bearing is just shattered

[@spelunkerd]

This is where a lift would be very useful to make a quick diagnosis. To have the vehicle up on the lift with wheels running would allow a technician to quickly find the problem -- it's very sketchy to try this with jack stands -- huge risk. A safe option would be to get a professional opinion, even if you eventually do the work yourself. If that doesn't work for you, then a quick look with engine off may reveal obvious problems.

[@spelunkerd]

I'm sorry, I am not understanding your question.

[@explorethewild95]

i think you forgot to menshion what if the lock ring does not stay in the gear and it comes out with the axel what to do then.

[@fish4fun354]

0:06 1 year? Damn you let that thing go for a while. Could there be some type of stop leak you could add to the differential see if it quits leaking.

[@spelunkerd]

As long as fluid level doesn't fall too low it's safe, and the way it sprays around makes it more of a mess than one would think for the amount of fluid lost. I have never used stop leak because I think it causes more serious long term problems. Gear oil is already very thick.

[@fizzled1]

Was it just me or did it look like the old seal still had the plastic insert in the back side from shipping?

[@spelunkerd]

It comes with a metal plate on the back, the replacement was similar, that plate is supposed to be there.

[@napieraustin]

5:20 snap-ring

[@spelunkerd]

Yes, the word I was looking for was retaining ring or circlip, but snap ring works, too. This was one of many verbal stumbles that I wish I could do over, but at some point one has to shrug and put it out there. Without a written script, composition on the fly will never be perfect. Thank you for seeing through to the message, behind my awkward verbal skills.

[@sean.g4516]

I can't really understand how it's done, to much extra stuff going on