Chevy front Axle Bearing Replacement

In this video I show how to replace the bearing in the front axle shaft of a 2000 chevy silverado. The procedure should be very similar for a suburban or tahoe.

[@okanaganlivin8470]

That black threaded cone with your slide hammer kit threads on the hammer before your 3 finger bearing puller. Get the fingers where you want them then spin that cone down tight to the fingers. It forces them apart so they stay tight and centred.

[@longschlongdong2031]

Couple tips from experience doing many of these. 1- Dont need to take the tire off or disconnect any of the ball joints at all, you can work it out of there. to get the stub axle out take you dead blow and hit it from behind hit it the turn it 1/4 turn hit again and repeat, It will pop out!You do this in 30-45 minutes

[@askmehowiknow3571]

Super helpful video. I just had this problem surface on my Tahoe. I like how you left the video recording and didn’t edit out the more difficult parts. Thanks again! Subscribed!

[@dillwizard7516]

Good video. Precise instructions. Note* you referred early on to the rod from the lower control arm to the stabilizer bar as a tie rod end. I found out from getting new ones that they are called the "stabilizer bar link." I have a 94 sierra 4X and to get the axle out you can either do what you did, or replace the stabilizer bar link. When I got into it I found almost everything was worn out. Upper and lower control arm bushings. The inner wheel seal. Lower ball joint etcetera. The good thing is they are all in new condition.

[@chriscadman5715]

Great job, thanx! One thing I would add is, you put a little axle grease in the seal groove so it doesn't chafe.

[@jivy29]

FYI. I have 2006 Silverado K1500 and just replaced the hub assembly. My axle nut is 35mm. I torque to 177. I'm chasing that bearing groan that i thought was the hub, so thanks for the video. I see what my next project will be.

[@bradleyhall4637]

Have the same thing. Did you replace that inner bearing and did the sound go away

[@looseparashoot]

Have the same thing smfh

[@jrmills2468]

Thanks for the video this is my second time watching it because it needs replace again :( lasted me about 3 years

[@jrmills2468]

Watching this video again because I'm coming up on my 3rd time replacing it.

[@bjrollick5262]

​@@jrmills2468Is this bearing the B2010 or the sch208?

[@purelypiercing]

Crazy how much work you added to job

[@averyprondzinski1979]

Easier to just drop the diff?? Seems like a lot of fucking atound in a tight space. Im debating just getting the reman diff and not having to worry about internal failure if the outer bearing and seals are already worn.

[@Lazylynnfeeders]

So some of the parts you were hinting around were the sway bar end link and outer tie rod. There also a inner tie rod. Which you referred to the steering shaft. Which is actually under the hood.

[@phildupere5151]

Hi The round cone that you used to drive the seal is supposed to be screwed on the puller rod. The tapper of the cone spreads the fingers out. God Bless Be safe.

[@Re-liner_outdoors]

Once you replaced the bearing did you feel the axle again to see if took up the slack you had before?

[@matthewreeves714]

Was you getting any vibrations from the bearing being bad?

[@nathanpearce7169]

Yes he were

[@lucy327rss]

you wont normally. What will happen is the seal will leak. Many will just replace the seal only to have it leak again..that is a tale tail sign the bearing is bad.

[@Electrical-crisis]

I seen a video being done and it was the same thing, but on the end of the axle, it had a little clip and this one didn’t I’m confused

[@macweathers2584]

Where my axil goes into the transfer case on drivers side I can move axil a little I know its not saposed to do that I can't drive it right now because of that..my vehical is a olds bravada..if that bearing is bad could that cause that...had same prob on other side with axil moving some where it goes into tranfer case it looks a bit diff on drivers side ..I'm just wondering if that bearing could cause that...any advice would be appreciated thanks

[@Bullfrawg336]

My snap ring remained in the housing. I was aiming to just do these bearings and now I feel I may have to remove the entire diff and add to my list of things needing replacement

[@geec8]

How do I remove the housing of the bearings if they broke off and only left the outer housing

[@jamesgutierrez2888]

Put the part numbers in cause that helps out alot some the ones who just want to be 100% sure they get the right part hard to tell just by looking at it with the seal mainly

[@garagexcape5977]

What was the part number?

[@nelsonbeauchamp9286]

Did my 2002 Chevy Avalanche off this video thanks.

[@littlemaximas]

Where did u get the bearing and seal?

[@marcv8258]

do you happen to know the part number to that bearing?

[@1967novss]

Great video you made it look easy keep up the Google work

[@mack606]

Do you just need the inner bearing or the outer too what is the difference

[@ramgabe1027]

I need to do the same thing to my 2000 silverado. Wish you would have put the part number to the parts. Looks simple enough to do myself.

[@brianbustamante5484]

Ever found the part number homie ?

[@michaelmoder4405]

After doing this only to find it was something else in the differential, and having to take the diff out anyways. It would be way easier to just remove the diff. Once you get the cv axle's off its four bolts. And removing a crossbar way easier.

[@michaelmoder4405]

That being said I still want to thank you for the video it was a good place to start having not known what I was doing.

[@TheHawkeye1432]

Instead of taking everything apart to get a big puller or hammer slide in just use a 1 foot piece of all tread that fits the bolt hole, 1 snap and it's out. put the slide part of the hammer over the all thread with a nut at the end and screw it in then pop it off, think it was 3/8"s or 7/16"s at lowes, just check the bolt you took off

[@20tea]

Honestly, dropping the diff on my awd Yukon was easier, but mine is lifted about 4 inches.

[@tashastandingbear9152]

do you have a video you followed? i have a 4x4 and it’s lifted 5 inches

[@20tea]

@tashastandingbear9152 The 4x4 is more resilient than the awd, but dropping the diff in your situation should help with driveline issues. I didn't watch a video, but there's 1" or 2" pucks you can purchase to lower the front diff a little. You will also need to clearance the cross support too with an angle grinder. Best thing you can do is to watch KZbin on how to remove the front diff to see where it mounts. Helps reduce vibrations at high speeds that you may also currently be experiencing.

[@AlexRodriguez-nm2fi]

Mine is leaking oil between the axle and diff probably gonna need to do the same

[@stealthcon6975]

What are the part numbers for the bearing and seal

[@keithjackson2462]

Just a fyi the "ball joint" that is on the steering is a outer tie rod what you called a tie rod is a anti sway bar and link.

[@fishinfool4204]

What's up with the lill locking or retainer piece on the front left side on the bearing ? I'm doing mine now that looks to hold bearing ? IDK. Thanks for help

[@fords1fan66]

I am chasing humming noise on the front left side and I have replaced cv axle and hub assembly . I guess my question is does that bearing sound like a bad hub assembly

[@sharpie132]

I have the same question

[@sharpie132]

Does it only do it in 4x4?

[@Thedieselpimp]

Can someone give a link to the slide hammer he used?

[@southernmaninayankeeworld6104]

What year is that truck?

[@rjm7168]

Why did you replace the axle bearings? Was there a noise? What did it sound like?

[@BrokenRRT]

What were your symptoms and how did you realize you just needed an outside axle bearing and not the inner. I'm about to follow your lead but I'm not certain if my outer bearing is my issue. I have a 2004 Yukon XL 1500 and been hearing a sound in front drivetrain. The hub bearing is new and replaced a few weeks ago. I just bought a new CV axle but after removing the CV today I doubt that's my issue. The old CV axle seems ok. With the CV axle removed and me spinning the drivers side axle in the differently I can hear it it making a winding sound like a mild clicking sound. When I grab it and rock it around it does have a slight amount of play. My diff fluid was old but no alarming metal shavings in it. Seemed like normal wear bits on the magnet. I'm just curious if you were able to Barrow it down to just the outer bearing and how you knew. Thank you!

[@rrh5000]

Sorry it has been long enough ago that I don't remember all of the symptoms. I know the biggest thing was that it was leaking oil.

[@carllaframboise5260]

@@rrh5000 do you think bad bearings will cause seal to fails? My seal blow up and changed it and know it sweat a bit my mechanic says nothing else was wrong now I have to go back I was thinking of checking inner bearings

[@jakemulvaney5458]

@@carllaframboise5260 i know your asking him but in my 20 years experience working on everything i own from cars trucks semis excavators ect a leaky seal is usually about 90% of the time caused from the bearing wearing down to the point the shaft starts to ride hard on the seal, causing it to wear further and further until theres enough gap for a small leak then it gets worse and worse. the other 10% of seal leaks are from age and or long periods of sitting. seals dry up, shrink, crack, degrade ect without lubrication being ran on one side of them. like how tires dry up degrade without being ran or from sitting but the difference in tires and seals tires dont get the lube the seal does so the eventually no matter what dry up (running them just keeps the moisture ((if you will)) evenly distrubited from the tires flexing and moving around). seals are made from rubber a petroleum based product (i know real rubber comes from tires but not the rubber we call rubber today) so adding oil against the seal helps the seal soak up more oil to keep them from drying up. hope this novel helps answer your questions..

[@jakemulvaney5458]

so ya if a new seal is leaking i would say it needed a bearing to begin with and when you went that far iinto something why not replace the bearing while your already right there and my guess to that is one of 2 things either he doesnt quite know what a bad bearing looks like which it can be very hard to tell since they sometimes wear so nice and evenly that they look good but arent to spec size wise (i made that mistake before and now always change a bearing if i have it out or its right there to pull out) or he got lazy and didnt want to wait or order go get a new bearing. but then again maybe you were needing the most affordable job done at the time and if that the case then he did you know wrong asking for cheapest way possible fix is not always cheapest in the long run, because hey bearing still good enough at the time but its also right there on tolerance and a month of wear goes by and now seals out and thats truly on the person who asked for the cheap fix. imo

[@BenPS-qy1pm]

Is the other side the same process

[@Marcosvlogs847]

Good video

[@finneusj]

Great vid. How did you determine this bearing was the issue?

[@GTsGarageTech]

I can grab my axle and move it up and down when laying under the truck. It also makes weird noises sometimes.

[@BoyishDriver]

Did this stop the play in the axle? ​@@GTsGarageTech

[@ourt1]

IS THIS CONSIDER THE INNER OR OUTER BEARING??

[@maxwellrobertson5461]

Do you have to drain the diff fluid?

[@pallettogallucci4004]

I need to do this on my 1987 4x4 Chevy s10, is it pretty much the same process?

[@trinidadbreeze]

well don't use a slide hammer on half spline axle just get a hammer and pole and tap it outward from inside and that half spline axle will come out.

[@michaelj2505]

Great video

[@shawnconnor8163]

are you able to inspect the ring and pinion from there?

[@spelunkerd]

There's a big plastic vent cover above the area he's working. That vent hole allows a peek at the ring gear and spider gears, but you can't see the pinion without removing and splitting the case. There is room to paint gear patterns through that vent cover, but no room for a conventional dial indicator.

[@codyspeers1537]

Is it the same on a 98 chevy Silverado k1500?

[@rodneyhuffman6938]

Thanks . Nice video . I can do that myself .

[@christopherhuber2517]

Very helpful thanks

[@tommygamba170]

What kit are you using?

[@curtishoyle2924]

Why does every video look the same once seal is removed? My 08 has like a lock nut between seal and bearing.

[@shadricksimms]

Did the circle lock ring stay inside the differential?

[@Bullfrawg336]

Mine did. Researching before I completely separate this diff

[@AeriaGamerz]

how do you know if its bad?

[@bskinner1969]

Does anyone have the part number on the bearing and seal?

[@robertpaul3675]

GM26066885 or Timken SCH208 outer bearing GM26041515 or Timken B2010 inner bearing

[@ILIKE2FIXSTUFF]

Did it have a retention ring on the shaft at all? I pulled mine and no ring.

[@Bullfrawg336]

Same. What was the result?

[@ILIKE2FIXSTUFF]

The ring stays inside on the left side.

[@juanmendiola1998]

Could you please share the part number for the bearing? Please and thank you

[@rrh5000]

Sorry not sure I know what it is, I do remember I picked it up at Nampa auto parts.

[@20tea]

Timken B2010 for Driver side only

[@Yamaha350w]

Does the shaft come out the same on passenger side?? Anyone?

[@Whisperquietly]

Will this be the same process for a 2014 Silverado 1500 ?

[@rrh5000]

I am not sure but guess it is different. that model truck is a different style. However I am not sure how much they changed.

[@chitownhp83]

How did you know it went bad besides prying? Was it making a noise? Thanks

[@shanec5617]

It'll make a whirling or howling noise when driving. And the seal will most likely leak.

[@autoprime12]

Thanks - it helped...

[@BigBerg95]

Really wish you included parts numbers lol

[@spenticus]

Hey what did you use to tap the bearing in?

[@boostedKTM]

Note this will definitely not work on a 2007

[@jeremysparks4570]

I think you should Put some lugnuts on b4 using them to pry with

[@mikeharo6158]

You put the fuckin bearing in backwards

[@tommiller6580]

Dont forget the front end alignment, once you pull a ball joint out, you need a front end alignment.

[@rjm7168]

Alignment not needed if UCA adjusrers are not touched.

[@autumnwoe6356]

Who needs a torque wreck

[@purelypiercing]

Never done this before huh ? That's a sway bar link not a tie rod .... you don't take ball joints ... u only remove sway bar link ... you took too much off

[@1987jlmm]

Passenger side bearing part numbrer please

[@scottm7341]

I think the flat face of the bearing with the part number goes out, not in. At least they are on my truck.

[@dalemihocik4732]

Your correct, on the bright side if it fails, he gets to learn from his mistake by doing it again. Proof again you can't depend on KZbin content being 100% accurate in its information.

[@goaldigger2314]

Is this considered the INNER or OUTER ??????

[@patricktrous]

Inner

[@arieloflameusa]

Thank you

[@brandonbandit10]

There's absolutely no reason to take the axle all the way out on the passenger side. Lots of unnecessary steps in this video

[@Joe_Blo]

You may never hear this bearing failing if it's getting lube. You might hear a new clunk in the front end that you can't find. You can tell when it's a gonner when the seal is leaking and the stub shaft is really sloppy when you use a pry bar in the CV axle. Overloading the truck is the most common cause. Pretending you are racing from Paris to Dakar in the desert with your stock rig is another. The front differential is not nearly as durable as the rear. And there's no drain hole to change the lube on older trucks because of GM's "Planned Obsolescence" engineering. They try design everything to fail at once. This saves weight, resources and production costs, as well as keeping customers in debt to GMAC for life. GM has always lost money building vehicles. They made up for the losses by financing their own sales and corporate raiding of other companies. So if you are replacing this bearing after 200,000 miles, you actually got your money's worth.

[@nathanwood6287]

Right at 199900 I gotta replace mine its clunking

[@jakemulvaney5458]

gm is the one who gets credit for the planned obsolescene marketing idea but its not a matter of design everything to fail at once its more about building cars in a way the every year models had the must have new style and options, also that didnt caused us americans to replace our cars every so often we were doing that anyhow because its not cool to have a old not classic yet car, a keeping up with the jones type deal is what in turn caused a throw away recycle attitude of the manufractures but those cars are called economy cars and not all gm vehicles are of that nature their trucks by no means are of that nature. imo gm has the easiest best and cheapest vehicles to operate and repair, lots of engineering has gone into building them in a matter that they can be worked on easily enough that its not just ruined once one thing fails like on a economy car those cars are built in a way that everything is built into one piece basically with zero thought into motor swaps ect. but even if gm came up with the idea we allowed it as a society by buying things that are cheaper and by not keeping anything for very long. it really is true when people say they dont build them like they use to and thats on us. if we choose to only buy quality life long products then there would be 0 market for cheap made crap. ikea products are another example of this new social norm of buying things that you plan to toss and change in 3-5 years im guessing. furniture use to be made by hand from the highest grade wood avvailable now its partical board and paper laminate to look like real wood. we need to change our ways for our plant isnt one of endless resources, building things to just throw away isnt very resource friendly even if some of it is recycled still uses energy fuel to make and ship these products plus theres always stuff that in everything that gets wasted in the recycling process. like when cars are scrapped they arent recycling all of it just the metal all the interior and stuff like that gets seperated and buried in the land fill, all of which uses more resources you can see where buying once for life is by far the plant friendly way in comparasion it may cost more but buy once cry once. and there is always a high quality option for everything we just cheap out.

[@looseparashoot]

190k

[@tripled8725]

7:37

[@carter4627]

Bearing... Timken b2010

[@sv-on7cx]

lmao the noise at 7:37

[@TheBracket1]

7:39 ahhhhh 😆

[@themanthelegend7048]

My bilstein shocks look like garbage after a month. Never buy them again.

[@purelypiercing]

Cause alignment issues doing all that

[@dustindeyagher]

Only if you replaced or adjusted the tie rods

[@zaino660]

Good trying but firsth take a Mecanic class.

[@dustindeyagher]

Try taking an English class. He did everything correct for a DIY'er.