How to Replace the Timing Chain and Tensioner Guides on Nissan 4.0L Motor

[@robertnolbertowicz1604]

So when you were done everything ran fine?

[@Rythecarguy]

Yep! Just drove it to work today, two and a half years after that video was produced.

[@gogatbilisigeorgia]

@@Rythecarguy thank you for the video. you replaced only plastic part of timing chain tensioner, where did you buy it? its cheaper than to replace tensioner

[@FiLeBaRoN]

@@Rythecarguy I've watched a few of your videos and find them very informative, I have a 05 frontier with the v6 4.0 motor, and using your video I have replaced the water pump, but now I'm being told I need to replace the head gaskets, I'm sure your timing chain and guide replacement video will come in handy for that, but I have yet to find anything related to replacing the head gaskets on this motor, do you have any guides or videos you would recommend? Ps. I have replaced head gaskets on 1997 v6 ford thunderbird before, so I have some experience with the process per se, but a dual overhead cam is a different beast.

[@chrisdotson9833]

@@FiLeBaRoN im working on the 06 frontier and the long oil pan bolt next to the oil filter seems to be hitting the rack and pinion. How did you remove

[@jeremyharmon4736]

When at top dead center do the cam lobes point upward?

[@JeffInDFW]

The people who design these engines should be required to do this job once. Cars need to be designed with servicing in mind. All that crap attached to the top third of the cover COULD have simply been attached to one bracket so that removing that one bracket would be all that was required. Cast the covers with a little tab to pry on so you don't mar the mating surface when prying it off. Stop placing bolts in locations where you have to remove 200 things to get to the bolt when there are obvious places the bolt COULD have been placed. STOP USING FREAKING PLASTIC FOR CHAIN GUIDES. I know they design for easy assembly line work, but they need to put more effort into ease of servicing. Ry, you do a great job working on your Xterra and your videos are a huge resource for the Nissan community. Thank you!

[@soleno74]

Jeff Tyler : we all need job/income bud . Always will be complicated , Merica

[@majorrgeek]

nonsense - those "200 things" need to be removed first before removing the part that is held by so called bolts placed in "hard to remove locations" - you're just lazy

[@DNDorh]

I absolutely agree with you. I believe these designers are not mechanics by trade and don't know how to turn wrenches. Oh, they logon to their software applications, then click click click and they are don't. The rest is someone else's problem.

[@majorrgeek]

@@DNDorh - I generally disagree with you as I believe mechanical engineers do in fact design engines keeping to the best line of succession for components list and bolt removal - in the end it is a compromise especially on modern engines where transmissions and east west engines are crammed into one space - generally when people complain about this it reflects more on their ignorance and laziness

[@volvo79gt]

this is why I FIRMLY drive volvo 240 cars. they are truly a treat to maintain and drive!

[@Rusty_trombone62]

24:45 “gently gently..very carefully...OH SHIT!!!!” That part was epic!!! This guy is my hero!!!!

[@Rythecarguy]

🤣

[@Rusty_trombone62]

I’m about to gear up to tackle this job on my 08 pathfinder. I’m scared 😱 I’m all alone as a retired 48 year old nyc firefighter living in Florida I haven’t a single male friend to help me. The only experience that I have is changing the timing belt, tensioner , water pump, and idlers on my 93 Mitsubishi 3000gt vr4 since I owned since it was new. I’ve replaced that 2 times over the years so I could do that blindfolded. Plus I put a double roller timing chain on my 87 Buick Grand National WE4. But I never tackled an animal like this before. I’m very scared but it’s so loud now that it’s about to break. But your video made me choke on my food when that happened. You earned a sub from me. But I’m still very scared of this job. I wish I had $4275. To hand the dealership to do it.

[@Rythecarguy]

Is this your only ride? If so just be sure to have everything you need, take your time, and you will get there. The most important items as part of this job are making sure the timing is correct and the new seal on the timing chain cover. Everything else is just time consuming.

[@BobbyD-Lo]

@@Rusty_trombone62 I'm a vr4 owner and I did the belt on that it now about to tackle this on an 05 xterra. Did you ever tackle it?

[@fernandobriseno8164]

Lmao that part was hilarious!

[@ChuckHudson]

Man you're a life saver. No one. NO ONE mentioned the idler pulley!!! Thank you for saving my and my son's sanity and his front cover!

[@Rythecarguy]

Glad to help man!!

[@andreaspresthofer6857]

Ry, you made it possible for me to do this crazy difficult job. Thank You Man. 2 weeks, every night a few hours. A few things to add: 1. Letting out the the radiator fluid is necessary (for rookies like me). 2. For Nissan Frontier (2008): The ring gear stop J-48761 is useless (took me one night sawing/filing/bolting to make it work). J-44716 per official Nissan Frontier service manual is probably the right tool - and worth the extra $. 3. Removing the main timing chain tensioner completely added some extra slag. I could fairly easy put the chain back in place 4. Never took off the spark plug or pully covers. I moved the timing components in place with the engine cover of. Thanks for your lessons learned. Loosening the bolts prior to loosen the tensioners is important.

[@Nilknarf7]

These are all good tips, but I did find something that can hopefully help someone. I’m currently doing this job on a 2WD 2008 frontier as well. It turns out that J-48761 is the correct tool. There is a small black cover that you can remove that is right in front of the transmission and is pretty hard to see unless you are looking for it. Once you remove the 10mm bolt, you can stick the tool in and lock the flywheel, which works flawlessly btw.

[@rondaroushy651]

@@Nilknarf7 hopefully this helps me when I tear into a pathfinder

[@72drowssap]

After watching this entire video, I realized how GLAD I am that I pulled the engine out to do this job! Thanks for creating this video.

[@trkish_Dlit3]

Got a broken chain guide, verfied in the pan yesterday, and preparing to take on this project. This video is unbelievably awesome and super detailed. Thank you for what you do!!!

[@Rythecarguy]

Youre welcome, thanks for watching!

[@motogp9253]

@@Rythecarguy Yes, thank you immensely!!!

[@kevinshea5819]

I have zero plans to ever take on a project like this but I felt compelled to watch your entire video. I have a 2012 Nissan Frontier 4.0 with about 57K miles on it. You have done an amazing job in detailing how to go about performing this task. I cannot believe just how detailed it is. I would like to change my plugs but even that looks too daunting. I really commend you for the effort and time you put into this video. I watched others that you have created and are done with the same care and detail. Thanks again for taking the time to make videos like this. I might try and do my front brakes. You made it look easy. Peace.

[@Rythecarguy]

Wow thanks for taking the time to watch the video. People who are out doing the job don’t even watch the whole thing LOL. Thanks for being a fan of the vids!

[@kaylajason8917]

I can not say thank you enough on making this video. I have a 2007 Xterra and just already tackled rear axle shafts, brake bleed, installed a new clutch, fuel sending unit and now I need to do this. I didn't think that it was possible until your video. hopefully mine isn't to bad since I got 160,000 on mine and I just started to hear the sound of death. I hope after this I can get another 100,000. One again thanks Ry the car guy.

[@mahaloaina2290]

Watched the entire video. Awesome explanations. Love how you tell it like it is. No sugar coating. This is a challenging job with serious consequences if not performed properly. Great job RY! Thanks for sharing with all of us.

[@XScooter39X]

Did anyone else stop the video and go have a drink and walk around a little in disbelief, when you realized he put the timing cover back on, without doing the Lower Guides, after going through all that to replace the top ones? Not even mine, and it made me toss a shot back. lol

[@Rythecarguy]

I did that just so you would react that way. 😝

[@chuckbrown8535]

Oh yea..me for sure

[@flounderwetspot8524]

XScooter39X and the plungers!

[@honorsful]

Epic thanks for the video - just wrapped up this ridiculous undertaking in a long 3 day weekend (happy thanksgiving). $1,500-2,000 is a lot to replace a stupid $2 part, but man, at hour 15 or so, I would have gladly paid to have someone wrap that job up. I was able to do it well enough without purchasing the tools. For the crank pulley bolt - I fed rope down the spark plug hole (where Ry feels for compression) and into the piston chamber on the down stroke. When it comes up to TDC, the rope "gently" locks the piston at TDC (can't complete the stroke) and you can put some force on the bolt. Have used this trick successfully twice now. For suppressing the tensioners and putting on the new tensioners, i used paper clips as stoppers and large channel lock (adjustable) pliers. The channel lock pliers worked like a dream after 30 min of trying by hand and hose clamps.

[@Steve-cu3fl]

You are spot on appreciate your time and dedication to helping people like me. I have been a mechanic for 45yrs,And just wanted to say hats off to ya. ✌️

[@Rythecarguy]

Thanks 👍

[@dimaglo079106]

Thank you for your time creating the content, just completed my 4.0 frontier watching your video.

[@kellyburleson6105]

I just wanted to thank you for this video. My son's truck was making a heck of a racket and sure enough, the timing chain guide was the issue. Used your video as a reference and replaced the timing chain (primary only -- only 30k miles on a rebuilt engine). Buttoned back up and she's running very smooth now. THANKS!

[@Rythecarguy]

My pleasure! I’m really glad to see that even years later this video is helping people out. Glad you got your sons rig worked out. Your a heck of a parent!

[@insan3world343]

I have a 12 Xterra , and man dude you are literally the best , detailed , and informational mechanic / teacher I’ve ever seen . You helped me save my Xterra . Valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gasket, valve cover timing solenoid gaskets etc I can name a million more things I’ve fixed on my own because of your videos ! Thank you so much man ! You da man brother ! Definitely subscribing to your channel ! 💯💯💯

[@CATOSHISYNDICAT]

bro he helped you do all that and you still aint subbed yet smh

[@MaestroJah]

Excellent video! I am about to tackle it myself, and I'm glad I found your video. My 05 Pathfinder had the main chain tensioner drop, and I always do my own work... But this is WAY more involved than doing the chain and sprockets on my 98 Chevy 454! I'm still confident I can do it, but now I know what to expect. I love how you were thorough in your explanations of even the most basic info that some novice guys might not know- you have helped a lot of people save a LOT of money in doing this I'm sure! Nissan shop rate in my town is $159 / hr! But I love my Pathfinder, so I'm going to keep 'er going as long as I can. Keep doing what you do, man, you rock!

[@Rythecarguy]

+MaestroJah Thanks so much!! I've been an IT guy for about 14 years now and I have learned to never make assumptions as to what people know. I always try to explain things as simply as I can to make sure I communicate important details. I think is especially important we are taking about cars and absolutely paramount when talking about a job like this. If you have any questions be sure to let me know and I'll due the best I can to help.

[@Rythecarguy]

+Ry the car guy ugh, please disregard the misspellings in that last comment. It's early :)

[@nowukno9]

Followed your video step by step and completed this job on our 05 pathfinder. It is our 3rd car so i took my time and worked on it every evening after work for a couple hours. After 2 weeks it's done. Also replaced water pump , fan clutch & valve covers/gaskets while i was in there. I was very nervous when it was time to turn the key but it fired right up and sounds great. You did an amazing job on the video. I just wanted to say thanks! Now on to the fuel pump...ill definitely be following your how-to on that as well.

[@Rythecarguy]

that's awesome Randall! I appreciate you commenting. I remember being really nervous on first start up as well. In fact in just a few short days I start my Titan for the first time after a 7 month rebuild. I think my heart will skip a beat. Glad your pathy is running great! 🤘🏻💪🏻

[@captainsledge7554]

This was very helpful. But somehow I knocked mine out in 7hrs lol that was for the entire timing chain. I'm a mechanic tho, just watched ur video to see what I was in for. I guess the time difference is because I do this kind of stuff daily?? Idk lol but either way your videos were helpful! It's always helpful to see every step in a job you haven't done. Doesnt matter if you're like me and have been doing it for 20yrs, or if you're a newbie. Never be afraid to hop online and watch someone else do a job, that you have never done before. It makes a massive difference in efficiency when u got an idea of what ur getting into. Anytime I need to see something done on something I haven't done before, I always say thank you to those who do these videos. So thanks my friend!

[@Rythecarguy]

Thank YOU for spending the time. It’s for sure because you do this for a living. When I am doing stuff like this I am also paranoid as hell so I definitely slow down to a snails pace and double/triple check everything. I just hate the idea that one little mistake with interference engines can be the end!

[@hardcandy7112]

Brother , from what I'm seeing here on KZbin , you are the true expert on Nissan xterra 4.0L Motor SUV , As you already heard my cry , I bought this 2007 Nissan Xterra Brand new at Miami Palmetto Dealership , First 2 year ran great , at about 5 years , starter , 2 brand new Batteries , window driver side motor , Fuel pump , A.C , Horn , and now at 92k miles , SUV went into a Shake /Rattle when I put in drive , then I put in park and engine sound great ,so I don't dare move it ,too much Shake/Rattle , turn off and get out to look under ,a constant drip of water from Muffler ,, ive gotten too many Feed back , water pump , thermostats', BLOWN HEAD GASKET, TRANSMISSION , I need a exact problem so I can decide to fix it or junk it .

[@BRANDOAN]

Planning to tackle this job in the summer. Just picked up my first X a month ago and been using your videos to service my truck. Once this is done, I'll be doing a rust protection coating and a lift, so thanks for making those videos as well!

[@Rythecarguy]

My pleasure thanks for watching. Subscribe, keep watching, and I’ll keep making them!

[@ItchyKneeSon]

How'd it go?

[@BULLISHGUY-fg3so]

You did it?

[@BRANDOAN]

@@BULLISHGUY-fg3so Was very tedious. Took 4 days for me to do solo with hand tools. Hardest parts for me were removing the alternator, getting the cams to TDC, and marking the timing chains so wouldn't mess up my timing. In hindsight, I should have applied more RTV and let it set for about 10-15mins on the cover before installing back onto the engine. I can see some areas of very very very slight oil at the top corners but not losing large amounts of oil between each oil change. I did this job at 101k miles and now i have 161k and it is still running strong. No issues. took it on 3 road trips that were between 3500-5500 miles long each and had zero issues. I change my oil every 4k-5k miles with full synthetic 5w-30 and Purolator filters. I once went passed 5k before an oil change and hear a bit of rattling from chains upon starting the engine up. But that was solved with fresh oil. I hope to run these timing chains and guides until 250k. I think i will have it professionally done next time so I can save time. Hope this helps. If you attempt doing this yourself, be patient and methodical. Good luck!

[@BRANDOAN]

@@ItchyKneeSon See my reply to BULLISHGUY below

[@skyusable]

the more i rewatch this video the more i am sure that paying a shop to do it might be worth the $2k. awesome video! but now i just appreciate more what techs do.

[@OnlineAutoRepairVideos]

Great job RY, someone just asked me about this job and MAN is that a job. I hope none of my customers call me on doing this, again, GREAT JOB!!!

[@dand7196]

Just finished this job myself, this video was extremely helpful. A note for manual transmission vehicles: you can get away with not locking the flywheel, but I don't recommend it. You can get the crank bolt off with a big impact wrench and a crank socket, not a breaker bar (when I tried using a breaker bar on it, the truck started climbing over the wheel chocks). I also needed to have a friend hold the camshaft sprockets in place while putting the primary chain back on, and it was still quite the hassle.

[@JorgeTorres-st8xg]

in the middle of mine, by cam gears skipped and i dont know how to reset them. any help?

[@dand7196]

@@JorgeTorres-st8xg if one of the secondary chains skipped, I would pull the cam sprockets back off and start again. if the primary skipped, you can put a socket on the sprocket bolt to rotate it into position (or use a flat prybar between the smaller bolts if you have to). it's under spring tension so have a friend hold the cam sprockets in place while you get the chain back into position. be very slow and careful, as the valve springs will cause it to lurch. I removed the passenger lower chain guide and piston, and I found the easiest way to get the primary chain back on was to install the guide, then the chain, then install the piston behind the guide afterwards. two hands is not enough to keep all the parts together while doing this, but I found it easier than trying to jam the crank sprocket back on with the chain in place.

[@meatkurtin9747]

Bro. I just called a couple shops that said they just won’t do the replacement. The dealership wants 2700. My motor is strong at 183k but not sure this is something I can/want to tackle. Thanks for the detailed video either way. Very well done.

[@daxbutler2207]

Can’t thank you enough for the video, years down the road I’m bringing back my 05’

[@Rythecarguy]

💪🏻💪🏻

[@St.Maurice]

Duuuuude!!!! That alternator is a beast to remove!! Talk about a Herculean task!!!

[@tdogboy7254]

JELANI FOSTER you ain't kidding

[@sminthian]

JELANI FOSTER I just replaced that alternator a couple weeks ago. The most aggravating part was the "reusable" wire straps on the back of it.

[@St.Maurice]

My head gaskets were blown!!! Complete pain in the ass to take off the heads on this engine!!!!

[@JohnSchultz777]

I gotta say, this video totally rocks. I'm about to finally get the timing cover off and while it's been an enormous job so far I'm confident I can complete it. Since it's a 3rd car for our fam, it's been parked for a couple months. Going to get super hot in the Phoenix AZ area soon so I need to be driving it before that happens. Again, huge thanks!

[@Rythecarguy]

That’s awesome! You’re welcome man. The vide was a pain in the ass to make but it looks like it’s helping a lot of people to see the job getting done. Totally worth it in that case. Best of luck with the job. I’m sure your gunna crush it! 👍🏻 thanks for watching.

[@TrailRunnerGuy]

Ry the car guy Well, that was a heck of a project. My X is now running like a champ and SO much quieter! Pleasantly surprised! Full disclosure (😬) - I was off 1 tooth on try #1 and had to redo it (I hadn’t put the fans and shroud on yet so there was that consolation prize. Haha (Though it went 5x faster the 2nd around.). Thanks again - your video made all the difference!

[@DaveSender66]

Thank you very much for making this video this is awesome work! I am in the process of replacing the power steering pump on a 2008 Pathfinder and it is one of the most challenging jobs I've ever worked on. This design of this engine layout is a disaster. I'm sure that when this engine is manufactured on an assembly line it seems easy to put together. However replacing components on this engine while the engine is in the vehicle is extremely difficult! I very much applaud your effort and the energy that you put into making this video thank you very very much. My recommendation to anyone attempting to replace components on this vehicle is to remove the two quarter panels and the entire Grill. I have worked on many vehicles for over 45 years and this vehicle is one of the worst engine designs I've ever seen. Thank you again for taking the time out to produce this video it is an awesome learning tool!!!!!!

[@andydanielson2375]

Dave- how did you get the power steering pump out? I've been trying to get this thing to budge for a couple of hours and can't figure it out. Any advice would be tremendously helpful!

[@DaveSender66]

@@andydanielson2375 message me and I'll get you my phone number

[@andydanielson2375]

@@DaveSender66 I can't seem to send direct messages anymore?!? Text me or call me if you get a chance. Thanks- 720-630-0627

[@loonster72]

Hi, The time you have stated is so true, if you don't have your set up and workshop you can double the time required. I am in the middle of repairing my 4.0 Pathfinder engine after it had been diagnosed by a mechanic as having a failed head gasket, the mechanic didn't fancy the job, so I I am doing it myself, it turned out after dismantling half of the car and removing the heads the head gaskets were fine, but the right hand front CAT had exploded and jammed up the rear cat creating too much back pressure, causing a lack of power, so anyway I am in the throws of rebuilding the engine whilst it is in the car, I am at the point of installing the timing chains, from scratch with no markings in place just going to the manual, I will keep you updated on the outcome. fingers crossed and loads of double checking required. Thanks for great video, you should of kept in the part where everyone must of been swearing and shouting when putting the chain back on. Allen

[@TheTWhite]

Update us in 2019 if you can, please. I am dreading this job.

[@Sroor90010]

Waiting update 😳

[@victorvasquez2267]

This guy is legit! Using this video and other factory diagrams, my buddy and I completed entire project in a weekend. Helpful hint though. I noticed you have a manual transmission. I also have a manual and you do NOT need to remove starter to lock flywheel. Did job just by putting into 1st gear to lock motor in top dead center. Saves having to remove tire and starter xD

[@TimusPrime]

Hi Victor. Did you set the crank to TDC and then put it in first?

[@victorvasquez2267]

@@TimusPrime yes. We set it tdc then put it into first. No matter what though, gears have markings and notches. Look up schematic and you’ll never go wrong. When everything is taken apart, one side might move on it’s own. We had that happen during assembly but it was nothing to worry about because we realigned the notch with schematic and used a long extension in the head to verify. As i’ve said, this video with schematics, can absolutely be done. The only thing I criticize on this video is removing starter. If you have a manual, you don’t need to do that. Throw it into gear and it shouldn’t move on ya. The only one that wont move is the crank shaft gear. The others will as soon as you remove chain.

[@LastLivingRelic]

Pathfinder friends! Some things I’d like to add to the fantastic and thorough wealth of knowledge that is this video, while doing this job on my 05 pathfinder (same engine, slightly different logistics). 1: I found that a pair of needle nose pliers or forceps are well suited to reaching the hose clamp responsible for holding the hard line that travels through the front cover. Allowing the removal of the hardline and no need to finagle the cover around it. 2: Removing the large hard water pipe from the passenger side of the engine, in my personal opinion, is easier for the standard DIYer than going through the wheel well to access the alternator. (It will also help with the next tip) 3: I found In necessary to lift the engine slightly, to access the second, longer bolt that’s located on the bottom of the cover near the oil pan due to the steering rack being too close to the cover, not allowing the complete removal of the bolt in question. I suspect truck in the video is different in that perhaps this bolt is not as long, or more likely that the steering rack is located differently in accordance with the engine. I found lifting the engine to be a more garage friendly task than unbolting the steering rack as they are very large bolts with little clearance for the leverage required to loose them. This is the second reason for the removal of the hard water line. This allows clear access to the engine mount upper bolts (x2) and the lowers can be accessed from below the vehicle (x2). 4: Just a thank you to the owner of this video, couldn’t have done it without you buddy. Much love.

[@Will_K.]

Just finished this job! 🎉 thank you for putting this video out there. I had it permanently pulled up on the tv in the garage for reference. The company Z1 off-road puts together these nice kits of all the parts you’ll need to do this job + some others you may as well do while you’re in there. All genuine Nissan parts.

[@Rythecarguy]

Thats awesome! Thanks for watching. Good looking out on the Z1 stuff

[@benjaminvanderjagt]

Forget the J-48761 flywheel stopping tool. I read this tip on a forum, and it worked great for me! Take out any spark plug (though it's easier with cylinder 1), turn the engine to BDC (or close to it) after compression stroke. Stuff the cylinder with nylon rope. Turn the crank left with the 19mm breaker and let the rope hold the piston. (If you're going to be taking the valve covers off, that makes it easier to make sure that the valves are closed when you smash the rope up into them.) Also, it saved me a lot of headache taking the radiator out, but that's up to you.

[@jonathangalloway5975]

Very well made and very specific explanation of all processes. I’m about to take on this same exact repair to an Xtera. I appreciate you taking the extra time to film and explain every step. Thank you for posting!

[@Rythecarguy]

My pleasure!! Thanks for watching

[@ItchyKneeSon]

How'd it go?

[@snafujag100]

Thanks for this video! I need to do this job. I did a little research on that flywheel locking tool. J-48761 is designed to fit at the bell housing inspection cover. J-44716 fits at the stater mount location.

[@TheNonnell]

Do you know if it matters if the Xterra is 2wd or 4wd for application of either tool?

[@snafujag100]

@@TheNonnell I seem to remember that 48761 only applies to 4x4. To check, the inspection plate is easily visible from under the vehicle ✌️

[@TheNonnell]

@@snafujag100 Inspection plate? What should that tell me? I've never heard that referred to before. Thanks

[@snafujag100]

@@TheNonnell the inspection plate or cover will be located at the rear of the bell housing, it is a half mooned shape. This is the cover you remove when you fit the 48761 tool. It locates into three teeth of the ring gear and is held in place by bolting it to the cover plate bolt holes.

[@ЯВиктор-ю5й]

Thanks a lot ... It's a fully explained video for changing time chains.

[@DWenning]

Hey Ry, I'm helping a friend tackle this job on a 4WD 2005 Pathfinder, and I think I figured out where that flywheel stop tool goes. There is an access cover slightly blocked by a crossmember at the bottom of the transmission. It has a bolt hole for the little bolt to hold it in place until you tighten it against the rest of the housing. Give it a look next time you're under yours, it might be the same deal! Thank you so much for this video, it's been a huge help!

[@stevey500]

no way, does that mean we've been using the locking tool wrong all this time? Imagine that.

[@DWenning]

@@stevey500 It drove my friend and I absolutely insane until we finally noticed that spot. It was too perfect!

[@Epicpedestrien]

Thank you for the video! Took a few weekends sitting in the garage but I got it done. Really appreciate the effort!

[@Rythecarguy]

Awesome! Feels good to get it done right?

[@Epicpedestrien]

@@Rythecarguy Feels great! went from not knowing how to change my oil to fixing an issue like this in a matter of months thanks to your videos and the internet.

[@danielmoodie1994]

Thanks for making the video! A couple tips for next time: 1. Replacing bolts/screws where they come from is an easy way to keep track of hardware. 2. In case you don't have the tensioner pin, you can use a small diameter drill bit.5/36"ish or smaller.

[@Rythecarguy]

Thanks for sharing

[@mikem6431]

Thank you! Your one of the few that did a good job at covering this project!😁👍

[@toddkelley1584]

Just did the Cloyes kit on my 2005, first thing I did get extra long needle nose plyers and remove the PITA tube, that one coming out of the center, RY keep the vids coming! Great detail.

[@Rythecarguy]

Thanks Todd, will do!

[@thoughtsbydaniel]

Thanks for documenting and sharing. Have to change my starter today. 2006 Xterra offroad manual.

[@sapphire163]

I just stumbled across this video. Ry's videos have helped with some minor repairs on my granddaughters xterra. I hope it doesnt't have this one. I had a V6 Altima that also had the tensioner problem.

[@k12pilot65]

THANKS FOR THIS!! IDK... I feel lucky purchased new '07 225k miles and just a faint whine now. Nisan ate the SMOD years ago. I am going in for the full monty this winter, valve covers, Water pump, oil pump, chains guides tensioners, plugs, hoses etc.... This truck has been awesome for me & now my daughter ))

[@b20015]

Man, I wish you would have taken a second to mention the bolts on the back side of the power steering pump bracket. Took me forever to feel around for them, in one shot you have it and then in the next shot it is gone. Also, I managed to hang the alternator in the same way you hung the P/S pump, so I didn't need to jack up the Xterra. Really appreciate the video!

[@andydanielson2375]

I cant find these bolts! Can't get the thing to budge :(

[@TheInvisibleOne1026]

I’ll just work the OT on the weekend to pay the mechanic to do it, lol

[@denhamdaves]

Word of a grate and unwise pussy

[@lilplayboiiip7081]

200iq

[@javierossa2047]

Hello from Phoenix Az, do you have the properly torque in the timing cover bolts? Thx Boss

[@WeTubeIn90210]

OUTSTANDING JOB - Thanks! I thought dropping the transmission was my limit. Nope this is the new lateral limit - I'm so not doing this job

[@Rythecarguy]

+WeTubeIn90210 I have to say, there were a dozen times when i wanted to give up haha. However I'm glad its done. Every time i drove the truck I could hear the metal on metal and it drove me nuts.

[@mb1636]

+Ry the car guy..today 040717 received class action suit on this issue in the mail. hope it will win n get expense reimburse. save ur receipts !!!

[@kevinmaxwell6610]

I know you are a good mechanic 👍 i really appreciate you sharing your experiences with this particular headache 🙏

[@Rythecarguy]

Thanks 👍

[@Rusty_trombone62]

$1500-$2000 ??? Try $4278.00 direct quote from Nissan dealership. You bet your ass I’m gunna use this awesome video as a reference to change all my chains and I’m gunna do the water pump as well. Thank you so much for making this video for us. So many on these pathfinders are making that same noise as mine. Aka the sound on the video. I hear a 05-12 pathfinder making that noise at least 3 times a week from different people driving a ticking time bomb and not knowing it. Excellent video!!!!!!!!

[@randy1ization]

heres a tip, fit a thick piece of cardboard in front of radiator

[@MrGreensGuy]

As I've just became a member of your channel. I was going to warn you about this common problem with the 4.0L motor. I actually had the repair done by a professional mechanic and it was going to cost me $1150 to replace. I ended up spending around 1500 because it was time to replace the primary timing belt also. It was part of the $3000 total repair bill, had to have the rear axle rebuilt. It was a lesson not to assume it's a bad rotor on the rear axle. Glad to see you fixed it yourself and I appreciate you how to videos. Thanks from a fellow X owner.

[@Rythecarguy]

Thanks for subscribing Andy! Yea, this was a crazy job!! I totally understand why it costs has mush as it does. I'm glad you got yours resolved. It turns out that my guides were VERY worn and the whining was really bad. The secondary chains looked pretty good but i replaced them anyway.

[@Rythecarguy]

Enjoy my channel and let me know if you have any questions.

[@mikecarter6569]

I have watch several videos on the Nissan this one is by far the best . I have the Nissan Frontier

[@Rythecarguy]

Thanks man! I appreciate that.

[@blaiklockrr]

I have a 06 Xterra and your video helps a lot. An awesome video. Good job. Thank you.

[@Rythecarguy]

Thanks! If you do the job let me know how it goes.

[@St.Maurice]

Love your videos!! I have an 06 Xterra. Changed water pump after watching your tutorial. This video will help with my next task.

[@Rythecarguy]

I'm so glad. I hope it goes well.

[@179joshua]

Thanks you for adding how long it takes.that was what I needed to know

[@Rythecarguy]

Glad it was helpful! In fairness I was also pretty inexperienced. If I were to do that job today It would take me less than 5 hours.

[@davidf8322]

You mentioned your cam gear slipped some in the process and I'm curious what you did to turn it back to the marks

[@marianmatusik8818]

Yours video and patience is excellent. That job , I paid 2300.00 in dealer shop for that. Too complicated to do it in cold with no garage .

[@Rythecarguy]

Dang! thats a lot. But now you dont need to worry about it. Thanks for watching.

[@MrSonordrumr]

Great props to you, man! A ton of patience I'm sure. Thanks for the video and good luck with it! I miss the old 350's we could work on with no special tools and within an hour you replaced your chain or adjusted your valves! Again, thanks man!

[@BenjaminArai]

Great tutorial! Can you post how the car sounds with the work completed?

[@desolatetree]

I'm doing this job again after four years. REPLACE THE TENSIONERS TOO! I didn't and I'm regretting it haha!

[@Rythecarguy]

Oh man! I'm sorry

[@Justins1877]

@357 huge sigh of relief for me! I'm does not sound like that. Ry, I've watched a ton of your videos, you're awesome man. Thanks for all the help and advice.

[@Rythecarguy]

Just glad to help. Thanks for watching!

[@victorjbarker]

Phenomenal video documentation man! btw none of the specialty tools are required if you use old school mechanics trick to lock the engine. I've always used a break bar handle against the ground to break the crank bolt loose. or you can insert rope into the spark plug hole to fill the cylinder and hold the engine while you turn against it. Then you can put it back in to spin the engine back to TDC since the harmonic balancer is keyed. Then you can spin off with an impact again to remove it. The tensioner shoe press tool is also not required. Something worth mentioning is you should be extremely careful with exact bead width for RTV because any excess you see on the outside will also be present on the inside in equal amounts. after time those little bits can come off an get ground up and plug the oil pump and cause catastrophic failure. Great job though..

[@stephengordon8968]

Excellent video ! Super easy to follow !

[@Rythecarguy]

👍🏻💪🏻

[@ctrebel2258]

Thanks for all the videos from a fellow Michigander

[@Rythecarguy]

✋🏻

[@zandyhensley5500]

I have the 2 bolts off the power steering pump and have pryd on it, it's not budging any suggestions or bolts you forgot to touch on there? 05 xterra 4x4

[@davidwilburn6314]

My local shop is just about ready to replace my chain. I would MUCH rather spend the serious cash to have my guys do this for me rather than bear the aggravation to do it myself, as you've clearly convinced me! Still, it's valued gee-whiz knowledge to see your demonstration of what all's involved. Good grief!!

[@natashadesousa8004]

When putting the cover back on. Take two longer philips in the larger holes all the way into the treaded side. Push down on the philps to line up the dowels, push together.

[@cagem0nkey]

I did this job a couple of years ago on my Xterra. One thing I wish I would have done while I had it all apart was check the valve lifters and replace as necessary. About a year after doing this, they started to make noise, and when I looked into it, I was so close when I did the timing chain tensioner guides, but was not aware of this other maintenance issue that could pop up.

[@Rythecarguy]

Good thought. 👍🏻

[@johnmontana18]

Nissan dealer shop did mine for 1500. They did a great job on it. I have driven 50000 since getting it fixed.

[@taylorcall2951]

which dealer?

[@exploreoutdoors3978]

I have just completed the job and your video was very helpful, however i'd like to add a few things: 1. You don't need to remove the two cam covers the timing cover comes off with them on fine 2. The two blind bolts on the power steering pump bracket that attach to the engine case were not shown being removed. To gain easier access to the two bolts that hold the bracket, remove the pump from the bracket first via unscrewing the top bolt, then one right behind the pulley. 3. I removed the crankshaft pulley with a Dewalt impact wrench and didn't remove starter or spark plug, i just made sure the pulley marks were at tdc before removing 4. I found an extremely helpful video on where all the timing marks should be if you plan on pulling all the chains and accidentally move your crank or cam kzbin.info/www/bejne/r57FfXtrjtKZi9k

[@gildardofelix2637]

can you tell me how to hold the bully to lose the camshasft

[@eminiscalperpro9729]

I just finished replacing all my chains, guides and waterpump. Took about 4.5 hrs to get it all apart. I took out everything that made it easy for me to access the timing cover. It really wasn't bad, just take your time and methodically remove parts. I didn't use any special tools. (Except I did use a pair of chain vise grips. They work great if u need to hold the cams. Attach it to the intake cam gear and u can hold it so u can break to bolts loose, if u don't have an air impact. Also, should the spring loaded cam gear jump in you, with the chain vise grips, u can easily move it back. Also, when installing the primary chain, get the chain on, then place the top guide on, put top bolt in primary chain tensioner and bolt on the primary chain guide that it pushes and let it lay over towards the tensioner out of the way or may be with one hand push it into the chain to create tension, so u don't have to worry about the chain jumping a tooth and the with the vise grip on the right (as u are facing it) intake cam gear (the big one) and gently bump it counterclockwise (it will on need to move a fraction) until there is enough slack so that u can rotate the tension up so that it's bottom bolt lines up with its hole. Tighten it and u are golden. Then align your crank mark and verify your cams are in their mark and torque them down. To save yourself a lot of headache, forget all the stress over the timing cover bolts, only two of the 10mm are longer and the others are All the same and on the five 14mm bolts, only one is shorter. No reason for people to be driving themselves crazy over this. The center water pipe coming out the front cover, please take long needle nose pliers and remove it, people are fighting it for no reason, it is a birch trying to put the cover back on while fighting it and not only risking messing up the rtv, but also while u are twisting that big cover around u may accidently destroy the radiator. I see everyone doing this and I can't understand the logic behind it.

[@eminiscalperpro9729]

One more thing, I removed my plugs, makes it much easier to rotate the engine and since I was waiting for parts, I let my cylinders soak with marvel mystery oil and I wanted to replace plugs anyway.

[@St.Maurice]

If you want to know if cylinder one is at TDC, watch when RY finds tdc, remove the cam covers and match the small holes on the cam gear sprockets. The left cam gears hole will be at 9 o'clock and the right cam gear hole will be at 12 o'clock.

[@Slitty12]

This is incorrect advice. Ry doesn't actually have his motor at TDC.

[@jonathanedwards8640]

I've been struggling with installing the overpriced flywheel locking tool. Looks like I have the same one and couldn't get it to work, installing it where the starter came out as you showed at around 41:00. Finally after studying figure 1 of the TSB a little more closely, and finding a post on a Frontier forum (same engine) I realized that "Ring Gear Stop Tool" J-48761 is not installed where the starter is installed, but rather on the driver's side by removing an 'inspection plate' that provides access to the flywheel. There is one single 10mm bolt that secures that plate. The threaded hole in the bellhousing fits the 4mm allen bolt that comes attached to the locking tool. This is confusing as hell, because the FSM clearly states to remove the starter motor and install tool J-44716 to lock the flywheel, but the TSB says to use tool J-48761. Arghhhh... Looks like you don't need to remove the starter at all! Thanks for the great video. Hopefully the lessons I've learned will help others out here.

[@giovannyalmenasdiaz1556]

Jonathan Edwards I am in the process to do this project. I need the link for the flywheel lock tool ... on my Search there is two different types .can you guide me with the correct one

[@jonathanedwards8640]

Hey Giovanny, my tool is for sale, now that I'm done with it. $100 to your door if your interested.

[@jonathanedwards8640]

Mike I. I sold it to Giovanny who commented previously. You might see if he’s done with it.

[@fucinblowme]

@@giovannyalmenasdiaz1556 So how bout that tool you done with it, if so wanna sell?

[@kingpapa4672]

Hi Ry, I don't know what's happened, but I do not see the link to the fan shroud removal referenced between 4:53-5:00 in the video?

[@KS-ko9kx]

Great video, thanks. Question: I'm ready to pull my old chains and install new. Shouldn't all the marks between the chains and the gears be lined-up prior to pulling the old chains to confirm the engine is at TDC? I thought I was at TDC, but none of the marks on the old chain (gold link on the crank, dark links on the secondary chain) line up with the dots on the gears. Thanks!

[@Sandman1984]

Thanks for this upload! A couple questions: Is it necessary to replace the main chain? There’s about a $250 price difference between the kit that replaces only the secondaries and the kit that replaces all chains...Also where can I find that TSB that has the instructions and what not?

[@antmarc3461]

Man Nissan really screwed a lot of people over with this Xterra suv. I wish I knew all this stuff before I bought mine

[@rainsfall2494]

Same dude

[@jvh22a]

I bought mine used about a year ago. And now I got to do this job! Didn't get a Tacoma cause this was cheap. But man I wish I just spent more then to not have to do this.

[@howie119]

You will easily get your moneys worth out of Nissan trucks 300000+. I just sold my f250 platinum to car max. In 3 years it went in for warranty work 13 times and now that the warranty is up it not worth the risk.

[@HHIVR4]

I just bought an 05 S model with 150k for $1500 because the idiot who replaced the chains and guides over tightened the timing cover and cracked it by the crank pulley.I have it a lot easier since the chains and guides don't have to come off.Still a pain in the ass job though.

[@joem8875]

Agree. I got a great deal on one and so far its been a nightmare. Looking back, I would have spent more on a 4runner. The cooling systems are so fickle - and difficult to troubleshoot / burp. Have worked out a bunch of issues but this is really taxing and im sure ill have to do a timing chain in the future. Testing head gasket today with a block tester, hopefully they are alright or its going to be a major loser. The transmissions are a pain in the ass too - Mine has a hard shift from 2-3 when warmed up, probably solenoids and a TCM thorough cleaning. when they run, they run outstanding - but they are a pain in the ass no doubt. overhead cam v6 is NOT fun.

[@desolatetree]

I'm responsible for about 25 views on this over the past week. Thanks for the video!

[@desolatetree]

In case you somehow read this: I notice you don't have a video on changing the head gaskets. Did you not need them, or is it too much work to be worth fixing?

[@Rythecarguy]

I read all my comments! :). So the head gaskets I generally will not mess with until I need to. Honestly, it’s only a few more steps past this video when you get all the timing stuff off. There’s definitely a lot of things you need to be vigilant about when you do that type of job but as long as you pay attention it’s really no big deal. The big pain is just getting the engine disassembled down to that point.

[@desolatetree]

@@Rythecarguy Do you know if you can just remove the bolts from the rear timing cover and then the head bolts? The manual says to remove the entire rear cover, which means removing the oil pan among other things. I was going to do the head gaskets as there is a slight coolant leak, and I'm already here. But not if I have to do all of that.

[@Rythecarguy]

Well depending on your year you might want to take off that oil gallery too and replace that whole gasket. Those are notorious for failing and slightly lowering your oil pressure. To be honest I am not sure about the rear cover. I didn’t realize that the rear cover when all the way up to the heads. Of that’s the case then you might as well pull the damn motor at that point to do a rebuild lol. After you have all that shit off what is left? The block, exhaust manifold, and motor mounts?

[@randy1ization]

thanks for taking the time bro, you rock!!!

[@PMAC-dx2ts]

Question. At 1:16:38, you refer to the installation of the main chain as being difficult. Was the cam positioning fighting you or was it that the main chain fits so precisely that when finally trying to slide the crankshaft sprocket on, you weren't getting enough slack in the chain to do it easily? If so, wouldn't the "un-tensioned" tensioners allow for that slack? Thanks.

[@Rythecarguy]

The slack was ok. It was mostly trying to get it all into position while fighting the tension on the cams. It felt like I needed 4 arms.

[@AD-pb4vq]

I need to remove the oil pump as well. Is there a video on this? At around 56.50 is when this would be done.

[@richardvalentin3267]

Can you tell me what makes you love so much the 2nd generation xterra.

[@Afig24]

Man after all that you should of at least showed a clip of you being done and starting it up for the first time. That's the best part! Haha. But anyways great vid, everything was so thoroughly done. I pray I never have to even attempt something like this.

[@Rythecarguy]

haha you're right, I should have.

[@codycard8364]

having done several of these, its my opinion that if your going to do this job you should do it completely, there are tensioners for both cam chains, they come with most kits,so it doesnt cost much more. you do have to pull valve covers and cam bearing caps to remove and install and does add time to overall job but is a better idea than just changing the guides. what im getting at other than do it while your there, these motors are notorious for low oil pressure with high mileage, and i have seen the cam chain tensioners fail and cause the loss of pressure. just my 2cents. great video great job.

[@dennywatkins7949]

Unbelievable dude. Great job.

[@Rythecarguy]

Thx!

[@scottharrisohn6972]

what a bear of a job, I would never do it and its not worth doing (no damage to engine) but appreciate watching it.

[@colinrob6662]

Thank you again chief! This video has been a priceless help I cannot thank you enough!

[@Rythecarguy]

Very welcome! Glad it helped man!

[@5sinmex]

Man this job was done in the most difficult way and with components that did not need to be removed.

[@Rythecarguy]

Can I get some examples?

[@griselacosta1227]

Hi i have a question. My 05 pathfinder has an annoying squick when reved up. Also do have any info as to why this truck always falls into a fan drag as if it was running at a 1000 miles per hour, and it keeps the fan on as if it was way too hot but the temperature is fine. Please if any information i will appreciate it.

[@Rythecarguy]

Yes. It sounds like you have a bad fan clutch. If your fan is always engaged that’s probably where the squeak is coming from too. I have a video for that as well. You can find it here: How to Replace A Fan Clutch kzbin.info/www/bejne/sJSwZZSonLuFoas

[@ItchyKneeSon]

If your secondary timing chain tensioners are bad like mine were (causing rattling), you also have to remove the valve covers and camshaft brackets to get to *the one bolt* on the backside of each tensioner that can't be accessed with the front timing case off. Imagine my excitement when I realized I had to do that on top of this already time- and labor-intensive job. I did lots of cleaning due to blow-by caking the intake and oil buildup in the timing case, too. Let's hope this thing lasts another 200k mi.

[@Rythecarguy]

You had bolts on the back side of the tensioner? That doesn't make any sense

[@joeysanchez5926]

​@@Rythecarguyyes there's 2 Allen bolts holding the 2 secondary tensioners

[@snafujag100]

at 1:12:27 why can I see the two copper links on the tensioner? Shouldn't they be aligned with the circles on the gear?

[@billiardsgeek4416]

Thank you. I just bought myself an 2005 xterra and my 18 y/o daughter an 2008. Bought need this done. I will do both. I plan on keeping my 05 for a couple years then getting a 12-15 4x4 xterra. Maybe a 3 chance!

[@Rythecarguy]

Hell YEA!

[@PMAC-dx2ts]

Excellent video. The step-by-step guide to what's involved is amazing and very well done. I was considering doing valve seals on an 05 Pathfinder that otherwise is in great condition but I'd have to do what you did plus slide out the cams. I might as well pull the heads as well. I'll have to think about that one further Thanks again.

[@Rythecarguy]

For sure. If you're going that deep it's not a ton further to just pull the motor and do a rebuild like I just started on my Titan.

[@lisatran2887]

Awesome presentation!

[@natashadesousa8004]

To undo the crankshaft pulley nut.. Take a breaker bar, put socket into crankshaft with the breaker bar siting hard on the drivers side frame. disconnect fuel pump and ignition fuses. Use the ignition to turn over engine, just a little bit, this will loosen up the nut.

[@randalldalton5475]

Good job. I have one of these coming up at some point. Would have probably pulled the radiator for some additional access/clearance.

[@joshuamccollum7024]

So in question, I have the Xterra repair manual. In it, it said that TDC is alined by the notch on the left side of the crankshaft pulley. I have a 2008 Xterra and that notch is there also so is the notch you show on the water pump cover. Now when I use the crankshaft pulley my camshaft lobes are pointed up which it said that it also need to be like this. Thought on this please. I review most of your videos and like them.

[@tedscoufis8358]

Did you feel a need to drop the oil pan to get any chain guide debris out of it? My X is undergoing this timing chain procedure and someone recommended that I drop the oil pan, but it seems like extra and possibly unnecessary pain.

[@merschel]

Awesome video! Just a couple quick questions. What part number or o-rings did you use at 1:15:00 in the video? I can't find a part number for those o-rings. Are those 15066-2Y510? Courtesy Parts says those have been replaced by the 15066-ZL80A. And the 15066-5E510's maybe go in the secondary timing chain covers? They look like little metal bushings with a rubber sealant around the edges, and I haven't pulled anything like that out, so have no idea where they go, other than a guess based on the FSM. They look like they might be part 12 in the timing chain diagram in the FSM. Thanks!

[@merschel]

Ah, yep, just noticed around 127:00 you pull out what I assume 15066-5E510's and replace them. So, that makes sense now.