How to Replace Windows The RIGHT WAY

[@mismag822]

Nice. Would like to see how you finished the brickwork around the windows.

[@Dominic-jb1uf]

Can we see a picture of the final job? Having a hard time imagining how the brick work ties into the final window depth.

[@youtubeprofile7]

I used to watch your videos religiously as a kid 10-15 years ago. crazy to see you here and hope you are well

[@MCSgt117]

I completed my 1964 home residing project and the Prosoco system was outstanding. Matt’s other video on the system and metal sill pans for the doors around the home are great videos to watch in conjunction with this video.

[@davidmandziuk8493]

Got that nasty fiberboard on my house in Michigan. Built in '63. First video that someone addressed that stuff. Think removing perimeter brick is overkill, but thanks good stuff

[@kmattar]

I wanted to see how they finish the rough destruction of brick!

[@RH-lz3om]

Kamal Mattar Me to. Hope he shows that.

[@robertoinvests]

I need to see the finished brick work

[@schwartzmatthewe]

Lots of different ways. Knowing Matt, it'll be something very nice and tight.

[@justRome1]

Show us Matt.

[@MrNorsewise]

Like stucco, you don't want a smooth clean line because you want a fill that will grip and not'slip easily. The jagged edge will grip a maliable filler such as , caulk, mortar, expanding foam. With this installation, the absoluteness of the existing brick does not allow most installers a simple matching option, even a mason will be challenged to try to match the brick edge with a like looking termination fill. So most likely the final brick edge will get a expanding foam, mortar or caulk type filler that will be hidden behind a complimentary trim piece of wood, vinyl or other exterior artificial decorative moulding that can be incorporated to the desired style of the individuals taste and or budget.

[@craigtate5930]

Love the way you build! I have an old house up in ohio, old windows with aluminum siding...couldnt stand the idea of using crummy replacement windows (no nail flange). So I cut off a few inches of siding around the old windows and installed new installation windows. Iam so much happier with this process. Yes it takes longer, but so worth it in my opinion. No more exposed wood. No caulk joint s to redo. And drastically more airtight then a replacement.

[@thebordernow]

This is only the second Matt Risinger video I've seen but he's a very smooth and professional presenter. But you know what I like best? His sense of humor and attention to detail at 3:54 - 3:56 where he flubbed a word and then inserted a visual pop-up correction into the video itself. Now, That's thoroughness!

[@buildshow]

Appreciate that!

[@thebordernow]

@@buildshow I learned a lot watching just two of your videos; will have to check back later. Thanks for sharing your expertise and experience and shortening the learning curve for us DIYers!

[@DualStixGaming]

Thank you Matt, your videos have really helped me through my Remodeling process. I have Re-Built a 1940's Ranch home and updated it to modern standings, while adding 1K+ sqft. As my first Build, your videos truly helped in areas I didn't quite understand or were unfamiliar on. So. Thanks, keep pushing innovation.

[@stankaliski]

As some have mentioned I would like to see how they finished the brick. I have a early 70's brick ranch and I think my house also uses that backer board behind the brick. So many videos of window replacements are done on for houses with "standard" wood/siding exteriors. I watched this video hoping I could glean a little information on the process required to replace the windows in my house. Preferably without wrecking the brick exterior. :-) I would like to see you do a window replacement video on a house with a brick exterior over wood framing. Without breaking the brick :-)

[@CaptainsOrders]

great vid Matt, as a remodeler who runs into this pressboard material pretty regularly, this is an incredible product! thanks for the knowledge as always!

[@josephdestaubin7426]

If you're going to use this liquid membrane rather than following code, at least have the foresight to install a shim on the ledge (along the length of the ledge), prior to placing the liquid membrane so as to ensure that the membrane doesn't funnel water into the house. Also, I think the corner detail is supposed to go over the flashing on the bottom and under the flashing on the side whenever possible. That's why it's shaped the way it is.

[@chris7662]

Interesting to note that the old method seemed to accomplish the job successfully as I see no weather damage.

[@deegottagun]

Old windows are not replacement type windows my friend. They’re installed differently. These are replacement windows windows. Cmon man!

[@wog6763]

@@deegottagun these aren’t replacement windows, they are new construction - hence the nailing flange

[@Furiends]

I just use foam as a gap filler and then silicone to seal on the inside. However a multi material adhesive that's also a sealer is a good bonus. Fast Flash is a Silane based polymer between a silicone based sealant and polyurethane based adhesive. This is just called silyl-terminated polyether (STPE) referring specifically to the polymer that binds the two. It's worth noting this follows in line with Matts promotion of commercial construction products on homes. Prosoco R-Guard Fast Flash is the equivalent of DuPont Tyvek Fluid Applied Weather Barrier+ and i'm pretty sure 3M has an equivalent product as well. This video is mostly an ad unfortunately. I understand a lot of Matts videos are sponsored but eh.

[@peacockhorsepower1765]

IMO Silicone is for glass and aluminum anything smooth. Polyurethane selant is best when a good long term fleible seal is needed. I pull up so much silicone and it sticks to aluminum threshold but lost adhesion to concrete / material long ago.

[@mrs.onyango6504]

​😊

[@mrs.onyango6504]

​😊

[@bae313]

Reminds me of the fuel pump replacement job where a guy suggested cutting a hole through the truck bed to get to the fuel pump through the top of the gas tank. EVERYBODY IS WAITING TO FIND OUT WHAT TO DO WITH THE HOLE. I did it the right way and removed the four front bed bolts, loosened the last two, to tilt the bed up, undid all the lines, and dropped the tank out to do the work right.

[@Hellahard]

My house is almost 107 years and I'll be doing five windows over the next two years. I would rather do it once and do it this way then come back in ten years and have problems. Thanks for the great vid.

[@MrTiger0002]

I think that's the first I ever seen anyone do the FULL window replacemen on youtubet. Usually people do replacement window and ignore the biggest problem if air leak around the old window install. It';s false economy because it's a halfway job.. Cool products... very specialized purpose. I have done full window replacement on two houses and foamed the gaps around window frame (completely filling the cavity). In both homes, the utility expenses were reduced by a huge margine… more than 50%. It tells you how little people think of air leak in the past. Even more energy saving can be achieved with sealing all other leaks in the house.

[@steveballa6831]

Matt: “We’ll see you next time, on...the BUILD SHOW!” I keep hearing that in my head when doing projects around the house. Love it!

[@xraydelta100]

Another fine video; especially helpful to me as a retiree who does most of the retrofitting and remodelling on our mid century home in rural Oregon. Very helpful. Thanks to you and your sponsers. Just like others who commented: This is why I sub to your channel, which provides state of the art construction methods and materials. Thank you sir.

[@bryanatwood9803]

Just purchased a brick home. It will need new windows soon( original windows from '57). I love the step by step, and full explanation. The Build Show is a huge help on what right looks like. Keep it up sir, thanks.

[@WillN2Go1]

New category of How To Videos, DIR, Do It Right, a class up from DIY. I also really respect what Matt says about old school, he almost never bashes something just because it's old or even because the newer methods are better. He won't hesitate to point out problems and shortcomings. Those old celotex wall coverings behind the bricks? The house my father built for us in 1970, exactly like this one, except we had sealed double-pane windows. I wouldn't use celotex now, but I don't think the people living in that almost 50 year old house in Michigan are thinking of replacing those windows. Are there better windows that insulate better? Of course; unless those 50 year old Andersons have lost their seal and gas, they're still okay. He says this install will be good for the life of the building. Generally that's considered 35 -40 years, but construction guys know it actually means 100+ years, and if they've traveled overseas, Asia or Europe it means 400-800 years. I've visited some of those places. It all comes down to foundation, water damage, bugs, fire.

[@MrEfarmer]

Please show how on earth they fix the brickwork. Are they planning huge frames around them?

[@Hybridog]

Matt is not the contractor on this job, so he may not know how it will be finished out.

[@Donttreadonanyone]

I do about 15 remodels on houses of this era every year. We cut the brick out to replace the windows and our mason comes back and pieces whole new bricks in to butt the new exterior trim

[@badlandskid]

David T indeed! Hire a quality mason if you are leaving the brick. Although it looks like in some areas they may be removing it entirely.

[@tweadleao1548]

Just tooth out every other brick and lay bricks back in quite simple

[@Charlieshomeimprovement]

This is not that kind of video. This is a Prosoco how to video. Good bye Tuck tape and spray foam

[@glazierEd]

Nice to see the residential side taking water and air infiltration in to consideration. As a commercial high rise installer, we wrap three sides with Henry blue skin, and caulk both sides, and use sill pans, with weeps.

[@clintontrahan2454]

I've seem WAY more leaking comercial windows than residential.

[@glazierEd]

Clinton Trahan It all hinges on the installer. Chances are if its being installed by a non union shop, they'll cut corners, like caulking, dam blocking, and water diverters, to save money, or just lack of knowledge. But since commercial windows are much larger, yea I can see that.

[@jmmcches]

I love that my home, built in 2007, has pretty much the same windows this home had installed in the '70s.

[@xoxo-st2dy]

jmmcches 😅😅😅

[@Paul-IE-Repairs]

that is definitely an invasive approach to window replacement.

[@Nobody_Famous]

paulinator216 the B52 Bomber approach?

[@TudorSI00]

For years I've hated dealing with fiber board and flashing. This looks like the right fix to it. I'll be using this method on the next

[@FixthisCD]

Never seen the shims used under the flange (usually under the window) but makes sense. Thank you

[@aaronsheets6857]

Now I know what to do for my house. Built in the 50's, single pane, double hung windows, with 2 layers of outside siding. First layer is wood siding, next is 8" aluminium siding. Under all of that is 30 or 15 pound tar paper. I was fretting on how to seal with that type of tar paper. That is a nice solution, thanks Matt.......

[@bobm3919]

With brick repair or replacement, the new mortar seldom matches the old. I hope these guys did a great job replacing the brick, because a bad job is what will catch the eye.

[@kidadd]

True, but this brick is painted. So they just have to either match the paint or maybe they were planning to re-paint the house.

[@therealSIRBOOM]

We want to know how the brick was restored around the windows!

[@tom73055]

Peach tree windows the seals are all leaking internally . They only lasted 10 years from manufacturing date . The dealer would not stand behind the product nor would peachtree windows . Thanks for the info Matt

[@FatFoolNDaPineWoods]

I love risingers obsession with weatherization, but this is too much. Absolutely crazy to remove brick. I own a company that replaces several thousand windows a year, without any disturbance to brick. Removing brick creates way too much cost for the customer.

[@buildshow]

Check this one out as an alternative for not removing brick. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aIjTl56nd7xomZI

[@yogi44mm]

DEEREMEYER1 500 for a 126000 home is the right way. Over cheaper for a 35000 house.

[@dahveed284]

I'm remodeling a 91 year old house. Let me save a buck so what stood for 91 years is rotted in another 10. Then I'll be paying somebody to do it right. In my experience doing something twice costs way more than doing something right from the get-go.

[@rcr76]

This is just creating work for yourselves for the sake of it .

[@09hoseclamp]

Hey Matt, thanks for sharing the alternative video you made from 2015 not removing the brick (spray foam + DuPont flex tape) vs the newer 2018 approach. Would you still stand behind the 2015 video or would you edit it based on what you know now as a "potentially" more cost effective (but with caveats of say slightly less water / air effectiveness) than going the full prosoco route? And what is the real savings per window?

[@pharmdiesel]

Excellent! I am in the process of renovation the Brick Up-Down duplex that I live in and this is the best advice for my particular window situation.I just ordered an Albion gun and in process of ordering the Prosoco products & Backer rod. I appreciate you sharing. Thanks

[@GrouseHiker]

Peel 'n Stick actually adheres well to primed asphalt/fiber board (e.g., the old Celotex). GCP makes an expensive primer, but solvent-base contact cement works fine. However, the knife-grade Prosoco is an attractive approach. If I had gone this far, I would install a through-wall flashing under the windows (shingled under the sill flange)... The brick to window joints (sealants that fail) are the next level of water-entry risk, and that old sheathing (with no air/moisture barrier) has un-sealed joints every 4 feet.

[@SLK638]

This is a very interesting method and the correct way to protect a wooden window slope from moisture penetration. It is good that there is such an approach. I want to do this type of activity when I come to Canada...

[@Wood-Renovations]

I really want to know how you’re going to wrap those new windows up! Did you save the brick or are you trimming with something else?

[@CompCrasher86]

Also Matt, some of the products you are sponsored by look awesome, but are so difficult for the average homeowner/DIY person to try out. Can't order these Prosoco products online and the nearest dealer looks to be an hour and a half away. They lost interest pretty quickly when I wasn't a contractor buying in bulk but I think I've convinced them to sell me a couple tubes. I see two solutions: 1. The companies manufacturing these awesome products expand their distribution to online retailers or home stores. 2. The sponsorship with Lowes opens up to products that anybody can go pick up over the weekend. I know they want contractors who pick this stuff up in large quantities but I asked my stepdad who is a contractor and he's also never seen it used on job sites around here. Drawbacks of a dated distribution model I suppose (hint if anybody from Prosoco is reading, he's starting to order more and more materials online)

[@buildshow]

Great point. Maybe I can get some of my preferred products into Lowe’s. Meantime check the Amazon links in description for some of these. Or I know Coastal sells waterproofing products online. coastalone.com/prosoco-r-guard-fastflash-20oz.html Thanks for commenting

[@pouetance]

Small planet supply sell these products online.

[@scottclark798]

Average homeowners should NOT attempt tasks of this magnitude . That being said , Thank you Bob Villa for all the work I've had the PLEASURE of fixing due to your encouragement to the contrary .

[@michaelg.gartman1148]

Wow! An actual window replacement done correctly. Big difference between a replacement and just a sash swap out.

[@scottgiberson6693]

My windows were from 1986 and got them replaced in 13 or 14. Every winter all the windows would get full of condensation on the inside portion of the glass. In the winter it was a little cold but not bad. In the summer it was just fine. But now that there are new windows it’s much cooler in the summer and warmer in winter. I just wish I didn’t have cathedral ceilings, if I didn’t my home would be even more comfortable.

[@SwimBikeRunFastest]

Amazing the lengths you got to to waterproof and air tight the windows. In the UK we use expanding foam and then glob on upvc trim.

[@chickfamilyink]

Hey Matt I was just replacing a window with tarpaper, this is the answer and I plan to show your vid to my students.

[@buildshow]

I made a similar video with new construction and tar paper. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fWm6Z2hqn71onpI

[@treystills]

This post is excellent and exactly why I originally subed to Matts channel. If I may add some constructive criticism... Its been a while Matt since you've thoroughly covered a subject as well as shown proper application. This video leaves me with next to no questions on how to actually install and why to install this product in this way. Thanks for this effort!

[@buildshow]

Good feedback. Appreciate that and I’ll keep it in mind. Assuming that means you don’t mind the 10+ minute videos?

[@WeAreTwoDoorsDown]

We love the long videos full of useful information, it's the 3 minute ones that feel more like a commercial that we don't like. Even if this video is sponsored, most won't mind because you shared a bunch of knowledge, instead of just saying "you need one of these, and I use this brand". BTW, when do we get to see that electrical room under the stairs of that giant house you were building?

[@doublebulbing]

I will call you Matt only because we about about the same age but we all wish we had your knowledge at this time in out lives. I am not sure you if you have done videos talking about your mentors but someone of a group of people must have shepherded you really well along the way So make the videos as long as possible because you want to learn everything you know and more I do wish you were my brother of family member cause you seem like an amazing guy maybe it is just everyone in Texas cause I am in a east coast state were people are not very friendly

[@jeremysmith3318]

Yes, Matt did a wonderful job here. Very, very thorough. Kudos.

[@ricklee9473]

marble head. wow ,just wow

[@billsnyder6945]

So glad I stumbled across this video. I am installing a new Pella impervia casement window for a bathroom remodel in an 80s house and have similar fibrex siding under Masonite lap. Was wondering if the sealing tape would stick to it. No one tells you these things, but I plan to check with Pella to see if they acknowledge this issue. Sounds like I need to use a product like instead.

[@bryanw511]

Thanks for talking about fiberboard sheathing. There isn't much info on it for remodelers. My home was built in 1979. I'm planning a siding replacement, and want to improve air tightness. The problem is fully adhered WRBs and sheathing/flashing tapes won't stick. I think I'm going to put Mento 1000 over the blackboard and use Procoso for window flashing.

[@krehbein]

I like that liquid membrane, but personally think removing that brick is overkill and spendy. On my own house I put new construction windows into the brick openings, insulated, trimmed out with PVC (Versatex), and caulked with OSI Quad Max. Am I up to current standards with flashing? No. Is the PVC and Quad Max better than what was there for the last 50 years? Yes. I'll sleep fine at night with this approach. But I get that you need to have different criteria when its for a customer and you have to maintain your reputation.

[@RJ_Cormac]

I use QUAD too, and it's far superior than what the structure started with. I try to incorporate a piece of molding, trim, or flashing over the QUAD, so it's protected from UV and physical damage.

[@wooodrow99]

Just think more like $500-$600 for that size Marvin Integrity Casement and yeah that would be a cheap price to install the windows PROPERLY and fix the brick. Surely there are cheaper and easier methods but in a climate like they have in Austin, some people will pay for the efficiency that the extra effort will deliver for years to come. If they have the money and want the best, why do you care?

[@wooodrow99]

Just think. Everyone has their own idea of value I guess. This is the kind of investment I try to steer my renovation customers towards initially( if the envelope is substandard that is) rather than the typical quick gratification of mostly cosmetic upgrades like new cabinetry/stone counters, flooring, and of course the stupid obligatory barn door that everyone seems to want now, with things like quality windows or insulation being the budget item that can be compromised and cheapened. It will cost you more in the long run for ownership and to people like me, will cost you in resale value as well.

[@krehbein]

DEEREMEYER1 So I guess your saying you don't approve of the job he did? Just kidding....

[@Venturestarx]

@@wooodrow99 It's not the best. That's the point. If you remove the brick, you don't know what you are doing.

[@lazywhale7364]

The bottom corner seal on the window should have been tucked under the vertical window flange - this would have eliminated one more possible water ingress point by shedding the water away from the trim and into the drainage space.

[@garyholladay2936]

Yes I saw that. Just common sense. To any water p r roblem.

[@rodmills4071]

Yep pretty basic knowledge. 🤣😂😁😀😎

[@KitchenerLeslie2]

This guy’s not a contractor, he’s the chooch who stands at a table at a trade show.

[@roddaman7545]

Well, while you're right that it is correct practice is weather barrier and flashing installations, the corner chevron is adhered only on one side, so it can not be weather-lapped as you describe. Check the window manufacturer's installation instructions - they are installed just the way Matt's crew did it. In the end, the lapping of the chevron on the corner doesn't matter at all, because you cover it with the flashing installed over the mounting fin. The purpose of the adhered corner is just to provide continuity in the flange surface. It isn't flashing.

[@CristianoRonaldoMen]

Always somebody else doing the Work!

[@noyuriii]

I feel like you're selling me a sealant product vs the installing of a window

[@chan4754]

This is information we need to have in order to complete this project satisfactorily. I would not have been able to problem-solve this on my own old house. I don’t believe anyone at Orange Depot would have known this either

[@jordanwilkinson7368]

They did pay for the video that we are watching for free, so I don't mind learning about the product.

[@edwardluth7740]

He gets money for promoting all these products. Lots of money. And this taking off the bricks to put in a new Marvin window is not necessary. Extremely costly. You can take out an old window and put in a Marvin replacement window without doing all this.

[@j.k.d1410]

I think I'll listen to the pro.

[@j.k.d1410]

I came back to this video specifically to find out what product to use for waterproofing/sealing a DIY window job for this weekend. So....

[@javierescontrias]

Those are some great glaziers you got there but you need to get them some DeWalt 20v battery powered sausage guns. It will save you alot of time and save the glaziers from developing carpal tunnel syndrome.

[@carlscue]

my forearms were hurting just watching

[@quacktony]

Nicely done, so what do you do with a big gap like that around the windows? It looks like the cut some bricks and also removed some properly.

[@fairweatherfoundry715]

This guy makes good videos but it always feels like I am watching a damn commercial.

[@michaelamick8295]

Yes, you are not wrong, Matt does mention that the products are one of his sponsers! So it is an "infomercial". The difference here is he does use the products on his own projects & is not just a spokesman. Same with all TOH shows.

[@SEELEYJP]

Your right , it is a commercial. Selling that caulk stuff

[@Hypercube9]

I actually thought that air dam stuff looked useful. I'm insulating the walls of my house (for the first time) since apparently people were idiots in 1950. And I have a few crevices that are too small or oddly shaped for insulation but too big for spray foam. A fat bead of that stuff would do the job nicely!

[@cheshstyles]

Yeah I feel the same way but his ability to convey his expertise makes up for it. Besides, prosecco makes good products. (We use their cure and seal for concrete)

[@williamskrainski8407]

Because you are

[@simpson1672]

Matt, you have the best info. I found your article on the JLC site about foundation waterproofing. It answered a lot of my questions. Had to laugh...the “contractor” used the ancient method of applying asphalt tar, which I told him wouldn’t work. Glad to know I’m not crazy. Wish you were in Dallas.

[@timmc6009]

Seeing this R-guard product made me instantly think of Redgard waterproofing for shower stalls. Curious if that could be used as well since they sound similair.

[@dshnapek]

Keep it up Matt. I learn a ton from you my friend

[@user-tv5dt3nm9y]

Great demonstration for this application type. The rough openings looked healthy. And those nails are guaranteed to keep the window from moving? How bout throwing a few construction screws in the mix? I’m just a home owner trying to make sense of this all. Of course the rest of the house leaks air like a sieve....I know the big question with an old house is when do stop throwing money at it. Good show. Thanks.

[@Wakeywhodat]

Matt, love the channel! I was hoping you'd also cover how the removed brick was addressed.

[@stephenpons6289]

Have you seen Albion’s ribbon bead nozzle for this application? Handy tool that makes that sausage gun even more efficient!

[@UnderWhelmed55]

I learned something from it I’m not too worried about how the brick goes back on.

[@shaunlowe5108]

Those where some great looking products. Especially line the air dam. I'll never use spray foam again! Really appreciated the attention to detail.

[@toobsterdude]

Excellent Matt. Man, I'd switched out windows on a house 5 years ago. Wish I had used that stuff, I can tell it would have worked great.

[@TomofAllTrades]

Thank you for the great information. This product is exactly what we are looking to use on our silo/shipping container home build. Our project is similar to a remodel/replacement window situation in that the penetrations for the windows will be cut in the exterior steel of the silo that has 2 x 6 framing on the interior. I would love to see a quality video on the topic of a window or series of windows installed in a curved wall (such as a turret on a Victorian house). Thanks again for another great video.

[@uomoman8775]

I am almost positive this is what I have on my house; fiber board behind the brick veneer. Prosoco makes some great stuff. Did you tooth back the brick in?

[@jakestough2819]

I was thinking the same thing about the brick finish but I’ll give you a really easy answer get red guard from Home Depot that will most likely save you a lot of time since this maybe a shipped product and if you’re short on product you can easily walk into a big box store for the same results

[@paperwait9611]

prosoco products are available in both sausage *and* tube. you do not have to buy a sausage gun. that said, if there is a local distributor in your area, he is probably only going to have the sausage in stock. fluid applied membranes are finicky stuff. you have to work at it to develop some proficiency in applying the material. the first window rough opening that i did was an absolute disaster. it was a complete mess and i ended up using way too much material. the second window was less bad. the third window was better...you get the idea. application of material to the sill is easiest (or least difficult) and application of material under the header is the most difficult. i think that fluid applied is nice material, but just be aware that when you see guys using it in videos that it isn't going to go that easily for you on the first window.

[@KkKk-gp9ys]

Foam is for insulation, temperature change causes moisture.. needs to be 100% air sealed.. good foam air seals.. not all foams are the same. Your chaulk stuff had gaps. Great video btw

[@rednek40]

Nice video. do you have video, that shows how to repair external opening of the brick that was remove to install window.

[@bigdogmn73]

Great video Matt!

[@Lumencraft-]

Nice. That really looks like a quality job.

[@squeekhobby4571]

Great stuff. What if we use something like redguard that is used to waterproof bathroom walls

[@matthewaquila]

And there it is. You are paid to push a specific product. There is more than one way to install a windows correctly. If water and air can't get in, the window is installed "the RIGHT WAY". I love how you told the audience to test fast flash on a small area of the sheathing/sil/jam to make sure it would stick suggesting the product might not work. But then you never did offer advice or a solution if the product didn't work.

[@andrewjohnson9279]

Timely information! I'm planning window replacements on my house before the brutal Austin winter! ;)

[@periodcraftsmen]

Matt! Killer video. Very educational. Thank you.

[@sniper60605]

I have that same exact sheeting and that is exactly what I need! Thanks.

[@PlateletRichGel]

Wonderful considerate work, not slapping windows in that will leak.

[@indyregen]

Wish you could show how you would do an antique window restoration aka sash cords, weights, etc, and show how you would keep it old but integrate new materials to take it to the next level.

[@jeremiahosterhoudt3760]

Thanks Matt !

[@justanotherjoe6151]

Awesome, Matt. Thank you. I see new windows in my future.

[@thepinkerton657]

I needed this info. Thank you. Indianapolis could use your knowledge and dedication to a quality end product.

[@thiagochaves3818]

Can you use these products on newer build remodel or would this be better for just older build materials?

[@lesisbest11]

Thank you! i did learn. i live in a rental, have bay windows, leaking air badly, going to have to fix myself because of the ridiculous pricing of having window replacements by professionals. They would sell more if their excessive lifestyles didn't have to paid for. oh the lifestyle of the rich & "famous". sad. i am a licensed cosmetologist in the 80's when they schooled us how to make more money than to please a customer got WAY OUT OF HAND. Greed over a helping hand. sorry about the rant.

[@nashaconstructionllc2346]

What’s best practice on window installs on a slump block home in Arizona? (8” slump block, with 3/4” furring/nailing strips and then 1/2” Sheetrock)

[@Taylorraeconstruction]

Thanks for the video. We are always looking for newer and better materials. We have a lot of success with Quad foam but I will do a little R&D with this product.

[@LukeSkaff]

Awesome video, love it! How were you able to source brick with the same texture pattern so it you can't notice the tiein after the install?

[@PrivateChannel1300]

This is great, very helpful! that stuff is what I've been searching for!!!

[@augustreil]

I don't doubt that this is the best way but, That's has to be one expensive window replacement job ?

[@999theck]

J Wil no kidding - that’s why Austin TX is the perfect location for him - no shortage of $$ there.

[@buildshow]

Here’s another option kzbin.info/www/bejne/aIjTl56nd7xomZI

[@augustreil]

Matt, Thanks. That looks like more my speed !

[@ryszardbargiel7256]

It isn't the best way, it isn't the worst. It is a good way. As far as cost, far too many people try to minimize it so much, it just ends up costing them even more later. Do it right the first time. Avoid those cheap people that ignore the details and don't really care about their work. J Wil, avoid construction, engineering, industry, etc. You clearly don't care about it enough. All you see is "HUGE cost" "tedious" "expensive" and "rich folks". What exactly would be your solution? The type of solution I see from the assholes that call themselves professionals? The ones that buy the cheapest crap, ignore the details, install fast, and done? The install here will be more expensive than others simply due to the obvious work. But trying "easy" is literally retarded. The products probably are more expensive than others on the market right now, but there are likely at least a few advantages of using them. Sorry if I seem blunt, the attitude that leads to bad construction pisses me off. I've seen way too much bad work.

[@golfmc7941]

Danger 1, What sealant would you recommend for replacing windows?

[@moxiemulgrew]

Great workmanship and products.. All the best from Ireland

[@cesaruribe592]

Why dont you collapse the frame instead of making so much comsmetic damage to the exterior?

[@WonderWoman0313]

Did ya ever show the finishing of the brick &/or trim around the windows?!? If so, can you please post a link?🙏 Working on project like this soon! Thank you!!! 😊

[@AnthonyBrusca]

Matt says something negative about spray foam? No! It can't be.

[@michaelamick8295]

Surprised the heck outta me 2

[@RO-rr3tx]

Spray foam spray don't pay the bills. His favorite product does pay endorsement fees.

[@massleo3062]

Definitely subbed and thumbs up! Maybe I missed it but could someone help me in understanding what or how the window drain works with this method. Sorry for not understanding. If it was mentioned at what time stamp was it? Thanks!

[@erick.4793]

Great info on window installation

[@garfieldisgod]

I wish the entire install including bringing the brickwork back up to the new windows would have been shown. That is the crucial part after the installation of the window.. I personally would never have changed out the aluminum windows. They looked really good for their age. I have double pane windows only 15 yrs old and full of water and green yuk!!! I simply can't buy into the sales pitch of today that is based on everyone being able to afford replacing all of their windows every 10yrs or so. I would rather single pane aluminum which will last a lifetime if properly cared for and just use insulating window treatments. A friend has an expensive house with the "so called" upscale vinyl windows and they are all crumbling to pieces and the house is less than 8yrs old. No plastic windows for me.

[@davidparker2173]

That looks very interesting, and like a high quality installation. I though am curious about how you are going to cover over those those broken bricks, and frame those windows. ( I am surprised they did not use a brick saw on that brick removal. Some of that work looked kind of rough. )

[@rollandelliott]

I bet it looked horrible when finished, but the windows are so pretty????? i would not be a happy customer

[@gilz1842]

Great video thanks for sharing 👍👍

[@doyourbest7655]

Wonder if there is a power driver for the sausage gun. The hand pump guns are difficult to get a uniform bead sizing without blobs and skips, especially with less trade capable staff. Matt?

[@prodantech]

Do PolyGuard Blue Barrier products work just as well for this application?

[@manofgod8672]

I really appreciate your videos

[@jsizzlesaurusrex]

Pull the old window cut off that nailing fin Put the window in the opening foam insulation the cracks around the window drill a hole in the brick to screw the frame to the brick wrap the window in aluminum with a hem on the parts that butt to the brick caulk the butt with aluminum trim the inside profit This would only be necessary if you get hurricanes where you live, and the rest of your house was sealed against water. The worst part is the fact that the opening sits overnight. 2x the time 3x the cost. This isn't worth while. Do the fenestration without the frustration.

[@roddaman7545]

....come back in 2 years and fix the rotten framing because spray foam isn't reliably waterproof. See profit lost. I've seen way too many installs like you describe making compost of the wall structure. Fast Flash is actually ready for install in 3-4 hours. You run one guy ahead of the installer, prepping the opening and follow-up with the install 3-ish hours later. It works really well.

[@jerrysparks1308]

Very nice job and thanks for the info

[@Thing0ne]

buy this stuff and have someone else use them on the window, I learned so much

[@tombrown7583]

Does this product work the same as a polysulfide sealant/adhesive. Sure looks like it does. Would solve the acquisition problem for homeowners remodeling

[@ElectricIguana]

Instead of the R-guard, couldn't you use something like Henry/ tropicool silicone or elastomeric roof coating? Comes in a bucket and more readily available.