How To Replace Your Trailer Brakes In 10 Minutes!

How to replace your electric trailer brakes. RV Maintenance that you shouldn't be putting off!
I show you how to replace your trailer brakes on your Fifth Wheel, Travel Trailer or Utility Trailer!
Parts List:
Pair Of Brake Assemblies: amzn.to/43T27cP
Brake Drum With Bearings: amzn.to/3OitF5G
Case Of Bearing Grease: amzn.to/3rSKGvU
Shrink Tubing: amzn.to/448y0hX
0:00 Intro
1:00 How To Remove The Grease Cap & Retaining Clip
2:16 Removing The Brake Drum
3:08 How To Identify Your Trailer Brakes
4:15 How To Remove The Brake Assembly
5:08 Reinstalling The Brake Assembly
6:30 Installing The Brake Drum
8:00 Connect Your Electric Brake Wires
9:00 How To Grease Your RV Axles
Dont forget to check out our blog for in depth articles, must see stops, and must have RV upgrades: interstateadventures.com
#rvmaintenance #rvliving #rvlivingfulltime

[@BeeAmbassador]

Great instructional and confidence building video. You even remind me to change my clothes. On a scale of 1- 10, if you're well prepared with paper towels, have a whole box of your 6 mil gloves on hand, Happy to know the names of all the parts. I want to video your video and watch the video while I replace my brakes. :) Thank you, it was clear and well done. Thanks for all the links below, you've done all the research, lowest prices, where you got great customer service, bonus.

[@BBCoachBob]

Good video, but one thing I would add is the scoring on the inside of the drum is not from worn bearings, it is a normal thing as the magnet is energized it rides on the inside armature of the drum and applies pressure of the brake shoe assembly towards the outside of the drum to apply brakes

[@johnmills837]

He had gouges not uniform look closer. Drums are ok to use.

[@roadking6414]

Perfect video. I noticed the trailor brake wires on a used 16 ft trailor I purchased have been cut. So, I'll be replacing mine soon. Thanks for the tutorial.

[@petehoward8494]

Highly instructional vid. Great job.

[@InterstateAdventures]

Thanks!

[@alexdongallo7954]

Super Thanks gave me the confidence to do it myself.

[@InterstateAdventures]

Glad it was helpful for you! Its really not that bad of a project!

[@sellignomod83]

Great stuff. Many Super Thanks!

[@InterstateAdventures]

Many thanks!

[@timandersen7320]

Great video, thanks!

[@titush4628]

Thank you!

[@scottfischer1111]

Thank You!

[@jesserevilla992]

You're a bad ass bro.. Appreciate you man..

[@InterstateAdventures]

Thank you!

[@garygarcia6020]

Thank you

[@briantrimble8160]

Thanks!

[@tristanwwsd]

Not sure about bearing preload here. Also, pre greased bearings probably aren't Lucas Red so now 2 different greases going on.

[@MoragTong_]

Agreed. Cranking down on the bearing and calling it good is NOT the way to do it. Probably why dude had bearing issues. Preload your bearing, then loosen the nut...retighten finger tight. Done. I haul granite (12k+ lbs) and run 3000mi a week, never had a single issue with my bearings.

[@MP-uc6zb]

Great video! Need your suggestion and opinion. I have a set of 4 new manually adjusting brakes and 4 new drums on my trailer. When I installed them I realized that both of my axels are covering brakes adjusting wholes.. There is no way to reach it with adjusting tool.. Any suggestions on how to work around it? Would I need to take off the wheels, adjust and put them back to try again?

[@The57Fordman]

I’m surprised you don’t go through the process on how to properly torque the center nut. I can see someone inexperienced tightening the whack out of that nut and burning up there bearings.

[@AREA51_ATVSXS_PERFOMANCE]

what should the torque for the center nut be ? im currently replacing brakes on mine and when i unstalled it was so lose i didnt know if thats how they are supposed to be ?

[@LukeRT]

​@@AREA51_ATVSXS_PERFOMANCEjust snug , should spin freely but have no wobble left to right or up and down, usually can ve achieved by hand

[@mattleach2639]

They should also be readjusted after 3-500miles. ​@@LukeRT

[@jeffwiseman0286]

I’ve always tightened the nut up as I’m spinning the drum in the opposite direction with a 1/2 drive ratchet. Snug it up tight then loosen about 1/4 turn, spin the drum again and retighten the nut. Back off about a 1/4 turn and install a new cotter key.

[@codygriffiths5019]

I do that by feel ...

[@nobiwobi100]

Thanks

[@InterstateAdventures]

Thank you!

[@johnmills837]

Only problem you got is you have not mechanical connection on you splice to the brake magnets. This common and simple splice is not very strong mechanically. Solder or crimp at a minimum.

[@josevalencia2908]

Just heat shrink to hold the wires? 🥴

[@InterstateAdventures]

Thats how it was from the factory

[@thomasgriffin4714]

A crimp butt connector with waterproof heat shrink will make a much more reliable connection. I've seen a bunch of bad electrical work from RV manufacturers, so I wouldn't use them as an example of good workmanship.

[@billfincher8519]

​@thomasgriffin4714 Definitely a good butt connector followed by the shrink tubing

[@LukeRT]

Usually how they come from factory if your lucky to get that much lol

[@meseahunt]

What is the socket size for the spindle nut?

[@user-rr8td4vt9q]

Just use a pair of slip joint pliers

[@nathanurick8320]

Channel locks works just fine

[@xthinker88]

So. Maybe this is a dumb question. If you bought the drums/hubs pre-greased then why did they take so much grease?

[@InterstateAdventures]

There is still air pockets after assembly. But it takes a lot less once assembled. I would say maybe a half tube per hub, if that

[@Oldtech51]

The Lazy Lube system is the worst thing ever put on a travel trailer. Boat trailer okay. To much grease can cause churning in the bearings. Churning will generate heat. Trailer brake wiring must be connected with crimp on water tight connectors. Never use Scotch Locks. Bearings must have from .001 to .005 inches end play. Never preload a wheel bearing. All wear points on drum brakes must be lubricated at regular intervals.

[@bobmartens1089]

I've had eazy lube on my Rv for 10 years, I always maintain it, PROPERLY, about 40,000km of trouble free use

[@davidjester7228]

Timken (tapered) bearings require preload. Better do some homework

[@Oldtech51]

@@davidjester7228 No preload on final adjustment. Wheel bearings must have end play. .001" to .005". Timken spec.

[@RealTruthChannel]

there is so much wrong with this video, you never just twist wires together, even wth shrink tubing, the wear is from magnets, not bad bearings, and you don't just tighten up your castle nuts, you need to back them off slighltly until the wheel rotates... this guy is not an RV tech.

[@terryluscher7994]

they are not rims they are wheels. Not saying the right words to describe what things actually are makes people move on and not subscribe.

[@InterstateAdventures]

K. Bye.

[@xthinker88]

Thanks!

[@InterstateAdventures]

Thank You! I'm glad you found the video helpful