How To Replace Your Trailer Brakes In 10 Minutes!

[@hooftrim4589]

Ive been changing trailer brakes, bearings, axles for over 35 years .. this video is the real thing ..thanks for sharing ..well done

[@mikechamplain2425]

Super good video...no dumb music, straight forward and great explanation...thank you.

[@stevejonhson4947]

This has just about enough good information to make it dangerous. If you are going to do this yourself watch many more videos than this. I suggest those made by The TrailerSmith. He's a professional and does not skip steps like this one does.

[@alexdongallo7954]

Super Thanks gave me the confidence to do it myself.

[@InterstateAdventures]

Glad it was helpful for you! Its really not that bad of a project!

[@DF-mb9kc]

FANTASTIC INFORMATIVE VIDEO !

[@Randy_Savage_ohyeah]

Curious about properly seating your bearings and adjusting proper tightness of retaining bolt. Is that not necessary on your trailer/axle?

[@xthinker88]

Thanks!

[@InterstateAdventures]

Thank You! I'm glad you found the video helpful

[@nobiwobi100]

Thanks

[@InterstateAdventures]

Thank you!

[@justicetrufaux6722]

One of the best instructors on YT

[@BeeAmbassador]

Great instructional and confidence building video. You even remind me to change my clothes. On a scale of 1- 10, if you're well prepared with paper towels, have a whole box of your 6 mil gloves on hand, Happy to know the names of all the parts. I want to video your video and watch the video while I replace my brakes. :) Thank you, it was clear and well done. Thanks for all the links below, you've done all the research, lowest prices, where you got great customer service, bonus.

[@jayayers2511]

Looks straight forward,the only thing I would do differently would be to solder the 2 wires together before the shrink wrap. Thanks

[@craigerickson1910]

Good video, obviously you've done this before. TX for no music! Some dust caps are much harder to remove than how easily yours popped off. If yours is real stubborn, use a small sharp cold chisel between the rib on the dust cap and the edge of the drum hub and tap lightly all around the circle until you get movement. Then tap a flat blade screwdriver in to wedge it out further, finally lay a round shank screwdriver between the rib and the hub and tap with hammer all around until you walk the dust cap off. I agree with others good idea to solder the wires rather than just twist together. Or use a crimp type butt connector. I like your idea to use heat shrink wrap, you always have to remember to put it on before you start the splice. Ask me how I know ha ha. That makes for a good watertight connection. I think the best way to get correct axle nut tightness is to snug up with about 25 lb/ft of torque, then back off one flat on the hex and install the retainer clip or cotter key if so equipped. I have checked this method with a dial indiicator gauge. You should be able to slide the washer around by gently prying with a flat blade screwdriver after assembly. Do this before installing the dust cap. You don't want to tow a trailer with the axle nut too tight, bearing will overheat.

[@mikerilee97]

Good video for beginners . Simple job & lots are afraid of it . Easier & cheaper than brake shoes & bearing change . Remind people snug that castle nut then back off 1/4 turn or so. And on the wires I think you meant Non - polarized . Ambidextrous means capable of using both hands with equal ease. And solder those wires if possible especially if it’s a marine use trailer 😉

[@petehoward8494]

Highly instructional vid. Great job.

[@InterstateAdventures]

Thanks!

[@roadking6414]

Perfect video. I noticed the trailor brake wires on a used 16 ft trailor I purchased have been cut. So, I'll be replacing mine soon. Thanks for the tutorial.

[@sellignomod83]

Great stuff. Many Super Thanks!

[@InterstateAdventures]

Many thanks!

[@tristanwwsd]

Not sure about bearing preload here. Also, pre greased bearings probably aren't Lucas Red so now 2 different greases going on.

[@MoragTong_]

Agreed. Cranking down on the bearing and calling it good is NOT the way to do it. Probably why dude had bearing issues. Preload your bearing, then loosen the nut...retighten finger tight. Done. I haul granite (12k+ lbs) and run 3000mi a week, never had a single issue with my bearings.

[@topflightmarketing]

Great video. I definitely give this a try next time my travel trailer needs a brake job. Since you used shrink wrap when rewiring the brakes, why didn't you also solder the wires?

[@Donny_Schmidt68]

Thank you for this!

[@jordandickerson4069]

Great video.

[@BBCoachBob]

Good video, but one thing I would add is the scoring on the inside of the drum is not from worn bearings, it is a normal thing as the magnet is energized it rides on the inside armature of the drum and applies pressure of the brake shoe assembly towards the outside of the drum to apply brakes

[@johnmills837]

He had gouges not uniform look closer. Drums are ok to use.

[@jesserevilla992]

You're a bad ass bro.. Appreciate you man..

[@InterstateAdventures]

Thank you!

[@PHILDRU911]

How did you get the Drum Grease cap off?

[@The57Fordman]

I’m surprised you don’t go through the process on how to properly torque the center nut. I can see someone inexperienced tightening the whack out of that nut and burning up there bearings.

[@AREA51_ATVSXS_PERFOMANCE]

what should the torque for the center nut be ? im currently replacing brakes on mine and when i unstalled it was so lose i didnt know if thats how they are supposed to be ?

[@LukeRT]

​@@AREA51_ATVSXS_PERFOMANCEjust snug , should spin freely but have no wobble left to right or up and down, usually can ve achieved by hand

[@mattleach2639]

They should also be readjusted after 3-500miles. ​@@LukeRT

[@jeffwiseman0286]

I’ve always tightened the nut up as I’m spinning the drum in the opposite direction with a 1/2 drive ratchet. Snug it up tight then loosen about 1/4 turn, spin the drum again and retighten the nut. Back off about a 1/4 turn and install a new cotter key.

[@codygriffiths5019]

I do that by feel ...

[@vrpeppers]

Great video! Need your suggestion and opinion. I have a set of 4 new manually adjusting brakes and 4 new drums on my trailer. When I installed them I realized that both of my axels are covering brakes adjusting wholes.. There is no way to reach it with adjusting tool.. Any suggestions on how to work around it? Would I need to take off the wheels, adjust and put them back to try again?

[@stevejonhson4947]

I realize this is late, but they make different shape/size brake adjusting shoes to help get those hard to reach ones.

[@timandersen7320]

Great video, thanks!

[@titush4628]

Thank you!

[@xthinker88]

So. Maybe this is a dumb question. If you bought the drums/hubs pre-greased then why did they take so much grease?

[@InterstateAdventures]

There is still air pockets after assembly. But it takes a lot less once assembled. I would say maybe a half tube per hub, if that

[@josevalencia2908]

Just heat shrink to hold the wires? 🥴

[@InterstateAdventures]

Thats how it was from the factory

[@thomasgriffin4714]

A crimp butt connector with waterproof heat shrink will make a much more reliable connection. I've seen a bunch of bad electrical work from RV manufacturers, so I wouldn't use them as an example of good workmanship.

[@billfincher8519]

​@thomasgriffin4714 Definitely a good butt connector followed by the shrink tubing

[@LukeRT]

Usually how they come from factory if your lucky to get that much lol

[@meseahunt]

What is the socket size for the spindle nut?

[@RandyHolland57231]

Just use a pair of slip joint pliers

[@nathanurick8320]

Channel locks works just fine

[@Oldtech51]

The Lazy Lube system is the worst thing ever put on a travel trailer. Boat trailer okay. To much grease can cause churning in the bearings. Churning will generate heat. Trailer brake wiring must be connected with crimp on water tight connectors. Never use Scotch Locks. Bearings must have from .001 to .005 inches end play. Never preload a wheel bearing. All wear points on drum brakes must be lubricated at regular intervals.

[@bobmartens1089]

I've had eazy lube on my Rv for 10 years, I always maintain it, PROPERLY, about 40,000km of trouble free use

[@davidjester7228]

Timken (tapered) bearings require preload. Better do some homework

[@Oldtech51]

@@davidjester7228 No preload on final adjustment. Wheel bearings must have end play. .001" to .005". Timken spec.

[@garygarcia6020]

Thank you

[@jimmyjeep96]

Don't snug & leave the bearing too tight!

[@DavidTapia-i7h]

just shrink tube as a connector? scary.....great brake job instructions though!

[@DreamIt_PlanIt_DoIt]

Good video, but that is certainly not how to tension the bearings. You'll burn the bearings up if you snug them down like that.

[@briantrimble8160]

Thanks!

[@scottfischer1111]

Thank You!