How to reset Samsung CLX CLP 310/320/360 Drum Unit

How to reset the counter Samsung OPC drum Unit using only a copper wire.
For use on Samsung Color Laser printers CLT-R406 CLP-360 CLP-365 CLX-3300 CLT-R409 CLP-310 CLP-315N CLX-3170FN CLX-3170N CLX-3175FN CLT-R407 CLP-320 CLP-325 CLX-3185 CLX-3180 CLP-365 CLP-360 CLX-3300 CLX-3305 CLT-R406
- DO NOT LET THE COPPER WIRE INSIDE THE DRUM UNIT FOR TOO MUCH TIME -
The risk is to damage the printer.
--------------------------------------------
Link Accessori srl
Via Beverara 224/7
40131 BOLOGNA (Italy)
www.linkaccesso...
email: [e-mail]
other links:
www.emmegiricam...
www.samsung.com....
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For use on Samsung Color Laser printers CLT-R406 CLP-360 CLP-365 CLX-3300 CLT-R409 CLP-310 CLP-315N CLX-3170FN CLX-3170N CLX-3175FN CLT-R407 CLP-320 CLP-325 CLX-3185 CLX-3180 CLP-365 CLP-360 CLX-3300 CLX-3305 CLT-R406
For any question or suggestion leave a comment
--------------------------------------------
Link Accessori srl
Via Beverara 224/7
40131 BOLOGNA (Italy)
www.linkaccesso...
email: [e-mail]
other links:
www.emmegiricam...
www.samsung.com....
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[@arminschuckart7077]

clp 365 here. you are my hero. Its shortly after 8pm on a sunday and not getting f***d by Samsung but loving them back smoothly with a bit of cooper is what made my weekend. More power to you!

[@tomsongurbo]

This saved my day. Due to Covid-19 my children were at home and we needed to print their school work. And ofcourse the drum gave up. This made my day, thanks. My CLP-365W did not cycle only once btw.

[@microgreengardening_9985]

worked fine for my CLP 365W! I used a 215 ohms resistor. Also I realized that you have to turn off the printer by the power switch after init "the new drum" . (just unplug the cable didn't work, it took me a while to figure it out ) thanks for the rescue!!!!

[@lauderontv]

Best tip ever. Thank you :-)

[@user-rs4td3ye2q]

Thanks a lot. Worked like a charm for CLP-365. In my case there was no thermal resistor, so there was nothing to remove. Like suggested in a comment from someone else, I used a 56 Ohm resistor.

[@viandant5]

yes 56 ohm is the Samsung standard for almost everything

[@Mine96mini]

Thank you so much! I watched a different video it said to put the wire in but didn't say to take it back out. It works and now I don't have to spend money on a new printer!

[@HeirloomReviews]

fukin love you man! just saved my azz! It worked It freekin worked im back in business had to replace the resistor with 1 ohm now i have to buy a back up printer but at least i can finish my work!

[@sifis66]

Thanks for sharing had problem with my printer samsung clp 365 followed instructions and now working fine saved time and money thanks again

[@marionchambeou1734]

Hello, Thanks for your video, unfortunatly, It didn't work for me (CLP-365W) but instead to have all the lights for the 4 colors (and "everything in error"), only the yellow doesn't have anymore light on for now (for a moment, the black one didn't have it neither). FYI, I changed every toner. If you think about a solution, don't hesitate ! Thank you very much

[@orenbahat2474]

In my model I found a short cut would not work, but a 50-60 ohm works fine. Maybe some current protection was introduced in newer models. If it does not work for you, try a resistor

[@oldtimerinstrumentetodt2250]

super gut erklärt und es hat funktioniert :-) :-)

[@guentherbay598]

soldered the additional wire in the chip (like shown in the video) put back the chip, put everything back, powered on the printer, endless power loop was visible, took out the soldered wiring, but dinot work :-(

[@serafimnevkin2965]

Спасибо вам большое!!! Thank you so so so much more!!!

[@rallidiony]

Thanks for your help!

[@ayis68]

really appreciate this video. Solved my solid red light error.....thanks

[@TheRootHorse]

Gracias, si me funciono, pero con una "resistencia" de "verde, azul, negro, oro" mismo procedimiento que tu video. gracias por tu video, por personas como tu si vale la pena youtube. saludos desde México. ---------------------------- Grazie, se corro, ma con una "resistenza" "verde, blu, nero, oro" stessa procedura il video. grazie per il video, da persone come te se vale la pena youtube. saluti dal México.

[@jorgebarcenas8970]

que tal amigo, yo tengo una CLP 360, que valor de resistencia compraste? o como la pediste? en lugar de poner el puente con el cable, pusiste la resistencia? y luego retiraste la resistencia? y ya se queda solo una resistencia? o se vuelve a poner la otra que se habia quitado? gracias de antemano!

[@TheRootHorse]

hola, la mia tambien es una CPL 360. el valor de la resistencia que compre fue de 56.0 oms +- 5.0% "verde, azul, negro, oro" rango (53.2 a 58.8 oms). si, puse la resistencia en vez del alambre. si, retire la resistencia despues del primer encendido (aproximadamente 20 segundos en lo que reconoce la nueva unidad y parpadean todas las luces led de la impresora), ya que esta se quema cuando la prendes, despues de que apagas la impresora debes retirar la resistencia quemada. y si, asi se queda solo con una resistencia, la mas pequeña de color cafe. recomendaciones personales: tal como dice el video, no expongas mucho tiempo el cilindro a la luz y mucho menos al sol, solda y desolda la pieza con precaución de no dañar la segunda resistencia y x ultimo no dejes mucho tiempo prendida la impresora con la resistencia quemada, en cuanto todos los focos led hayan parpadeado apagala de forma normal y prendela solo hasta que le hallas retirado la resistencia quemada. esto funciona a la primera. la unica desventaja de este metodo es que a la larga el cilindro se desgastara mas rapido y despues de un tiempo las impresiones ya no serán de la mejor calidad, pero te da un rango de muchas mas impresiones antes de tener que comprar otro. saludos.

[@jorgebarcenas8970]

The RootHorse gracias mi estimado, por tu ayuda! me funciono!

[@TheRootHorse]

PERFECTO, ahora solo te molesto con un deposito a mi cuenta de $500 pesos jajajaj.... no te creas, para eso es la Internet, para ayudarnos, SALUDOS.

[@alondragarcia3391]

The RootHorse hola tengo una samsung xpress m2875fw y no es así su unida de imagen como le ago?

[@thomassigmund9579]

This large Grey resistor like part is a 50 mA thermal fuse. if wou wanw to make a safe solution you should use a resistor of 47 or 56 Ohms in series with a normal fuse 50 mA. This could stay inside and it is not necessary to remove it after the reset is done.

[@DarioMazzeo83]

Sounds reasonable 47 Ohms with a fuse in series

[@aniasrania3541]

This seems to be very similar to hp 179 drum chip. I found out by watching different offers on ali, that the green fuse is rated 1/16A, 63mA. When the time comes, I will try it.

[@viandant5]

Yes it's a Samsung machine

[@kenhalliday6940]

Brilliant! Thank you so much!!

[@josequizz4589]

Hello, I did as you indicate in your video and the wire to connect the printer is instantly turned off, I kept doing the procedure and when it does not mark the colors in red, but it marks in red where the triangle and the arrows is a CLP 325, I do not print the test page anymore

[@cirleno]

Thank you for share this.

[@fstarockaburns425]

can I just jump the grey thing in the first step? fyi when I tried this as the lights were flashing, after 3s it made a tick sound - shut it down, remove wire.. my status led is now orange solid instead of red solid, and no toner lights on/flashing.. next steps?

[@carloschuba6256]

Mr. Viadant This procedure causes the printer to accept non-original I want to know if you have this same procedure for Samsung SL C410W SL, because I want to recharge at home

[@viandant5]

yes, it should work. it uses the same type of reset method

[@maj113]

Hi man when I added the wire and put everything back together and turned in on the there was a spark on side of the printer then it blew the house fuse and shut off nothing seems to be wrong but the printer won't turn on The resistor is fine and still work (used an multimeter) I did remove the Termal fuse but not the second resistor I have clp-315 btw where the drivers

[@lecommentaire4639]

Thank you so much!

[@berndzollner4375]

Sorry, but in my clp 365 I had no fuse and finally it doesen't work. What a pity!

[@floriandupuy4354]

Hello, thanks for the video ! I have a c483w model and i don't have any chip holder on it! Do you know wher I could find one ? Thanks

[@viandant5]

Probably it has been removed. searching with a searching engine you dan find the whole chip holder assembly with the components

[@alejandro8342]

Una pregunta, ¿Que problema arregla esto?

[@jublywubly]

0:19 There is no chip or "thermal fuse" in there. Both components are resistors. One resister (the top one) has current from left to right. The bottom resistor has current flowing from right to left. Unsurprisingly, these instructions did not work with my CLP-320N. I followed all the instructions. Turning the printer back on, for the first step, it cycled through the toner check lights, just once, then the printer turned itself off. I unplugged the printer, again, and removed the piece of wire that I had soldered in place. I then put it all back together and restarted the printer again, as instructed in the video. The printer seemed to pass all its checks, but it wouldn't print. It just showed the same big red light as it did before I started trying to fix it. It seems obvious that the drum unit needs both resistors to complete a circuit, or it won't operate, because it will sense something is wrong. I soldered the original resistor back in place (the correct way around) and put the entire printer back together again. Once again, it cycled through the usual checks and sat with the big green light on, as it did before. Just like before I even started trying to fix the printer, it got ready to print, but stopped and left the big red light glowing again. I have no idea if I can solve the problem by replacing the drum unit (the error only began after I cleaned out all the old used toner and cleaned the drum). Given the drum costs about 1/3 of the cost of the printer, it's not really worth the risk.

[@viandant5]

You can call it as you want. the first component has to blow or disappear, the second has to remain there

[@Kuasarakyat2]

Hi Vandant5, What is the purpose of restting the drum Unit? Thanks

[@viandant5]

To cancel the error message.

[@Romio666]

viandant5 which error message exactly please.

[@digitalizations]

Now I know why samsung don't make anymore printers LOL ...

[@kos2126]

THANKS!!👍🏼

[@Tonercom]

Thinks 🙏 its work. Very good 👍

[@propeller8181]

In addition to my previous, I've now binned my CLP-315, buying a new Printer. The Samsung was crap anyway.

[@mohammadabdurrahman3282]

Is it possible to do that same work for present Pantum P2500 printer ?

[@viandant5]

It seems to be a Brother printer but I don't know that model and the reset procedures

[@mohammadabdurrahman3282]

@@viandant5 Thank you for your reply but I am disappointed to read your answer, because my personal use of my printer, it is more waste of ink powder because the cheap of the toner indicates ink is empty though here more ink powder.

[@viandant5]

@@mohammadabdurrahman3282 In the Brother printers what you see inside the cartridge at the end of the cycle is waste toner powder.

[@mohammadabdurrahman3282]

@@viandant5 Dear, my printer is Pantum P2500 model. And want to modify the toner chip for saving ink powder. I have no Brother printer.

[@viandant5]

@@mohammadabdurrahman3282 There is no way to modify or reset that chip. You can only change it. May be its' possible to buy it on alibaba aliexpress or similar sites.

[@pokemon_france]

I have a green component sticked with another

[@user-rt1hf8jr7l]

Doesn't work on Samsung clp 315.

[@long75551]

Hello; I did just that; after I reinstall It said install Image unit? Look like it now not recognize Image unit. What should I do?

[@viandant5]

try again. do not let the image unit too much time with the wire

[@annesakkinen6538]

I don´t know why, but this didn´t solve my problem. I cleaned drum and belt and when I put those back, my CLP-310 dont work at all anymore. It just flashes red light. I tried this, but it didn´t help. Just bought new pack of colours and dont want those to get wasted. Any ideas, what should I try next?

[@viandant5]

Are you sure it's a drum problem? The problem started when you removed the trasnsfer belt and the drum?

[@annesakkinen6538]

@@viandant5 Not anymore. Now it's all gone, no lights flashing anymore, I think I caused short circuit..

[@viandant5]

@@annesakkinen6538 You mean the printer is working now?

[@annesakkinen6538]

@@viandant5 Oh no! It's dead.

[@philippehenry9468]

I tried your trick on my C410 but it does not work. The chip does not contain a fuse so what have I to do ? Have I to sold the copper wire (it's what I did) ?

[@viandant5]

It does not contain the fuse because as explained it's a stater drum unit.

[@philippehenry9468]

@@viandant5 WHere is it explained ? What is a stater drum unit ? What can I do in this case ? Thanks for your answer

[@viandant5]

@@philippehenry9468 The starter drum is the drum you purchase with the machine. You have to add a wire letting the other component in place

[@philippehenry9468]

@@viandant5 Thank you. I already tried this way twice and it still doesn't work. I have probably an additional problem with my drum. Many thanks anyway.

[@winbexsf6568]

Hola, gracias por el video. He hecho lo que dice, pero cuando vuelvo a conectar la impresora consigo una luz roja fija y con el panel inteligente que me dice que hay una "unidad de imagen no instalado" error por favor ayuda "

[@viandant5]

Probably it referes to the drum unit

[@dhansel4835]

I saw one video where they took the drum unit completely apart. What a mess. I went ahead and ordered a new drum unit from LD Products and installed it. It was original Samsung name and it worked OK. I still have the original (bad drum unit) in the box the replacement unit came in. I haven't taken the clip out to see if it has an imaging fuse. I wonder what would happen if I buy a fuse chip from Ebay $ 3.95 each and put one of those in? I don't want to screw up a working printer. What I need to do next is take the chip module out and see if it has a fuse chip in it. If not one day I will put the small wire in and cycle the printer and remove it and see what happens. If the drum DOES have a fuse chip I will put the wire in, cycle the printer, remove the wire and install a new fuse chip. Thanks for all feedback on this.

[@viandant5]

You you buy a fuse chip you do not need this method. but if you don not at least clean the drum unit probably the print quality will be low

[@dhansel4835]

So If my imaging unit has a fuse in it all I need to do is unsorder the old one and solder the new one in place? Is that right?

[@viandant5]

Yes

[@raznal]

hi +viandant5..... can I use a piece of a regular clip instead of cooper wire?? I think the regular paper clip es steel, not cooper...

[@viandant5]

it must be conductive, so it may work

[@raznal]

hi +viandant5.... I used 2 different metals/methods (see the pic attached ) and in both cases when I turn the printer on it starts the cycle of lights and suddenly turn off without finish the cycle..... what is going on?? thanks for the help //// [ i.imgur.com/nYyDufI.jpg ]

[@viandant5]

what is that wire? Copper?

[@raznal]

yes, cooper.... and the pin below dont know what metal is, but is conductive. It did not work one or the other. printer turn off itself after a few seconds. any ideas?

[@viandant5]

Try stopping the printer before it turn off

[@edibudu06]

is that work for c410w? my chip has only one registor and i short circuit it but it doensnt work.. can someone help me pls

[@viandant5]

Yes it should work. It has only a resistor becausre it's a starter drum

[@edibudu06]

@@viandant5 i connet 56 ohm resistor and immedetly it fired.

[@bidyutgogoi810]

I have the same problem in my c410w, add 56ohm, after few second it burns, restart the printer it shows red light

[@smileywarrior1870]

can I use a paper clip instead?

[@viandant5]

Yes, if it's conductive

[@smileywarrior1870]

viandant5 perfect it worked and image sensor is reset. The only problem is that the printer tries to print but is not grabbing paper from the main tray. I did research and either need the rubber paper grabber or the main tray solenoid needs replacement. I can’t find the solenoid locally and to order the part is not even worth it after shipping costs. I might have to buy another printer. Is there anything else you would recommend?

[@viandant5]

@@smileywarrior1870 First to buy a printer try to clean with alcohol the rubber pick up paper roller over the main tray and the separation pad. If you need a color printer I think Samsung has probably the best printers

[@Wok_Agenda]

Screw planned obsolescence

[@winbexsf6568]

Hola gracias por el video. Hice lo que dices pero al volver a conecar la impresora me sale una luz roja fija y con el smart panel me dice que hay un error "unidad de imagen no instalada" porfavor ayuda"

[@MatiusLenin]

Se te quemó el chip.

[@adondeestaelpiso]

creo q la quemaste pq el shock electrico se suele hacer con una resistencia de 56ohm y este animal le mete un puente directamente. No lo tires pq solo le falta el chip, a menos q hallas quemado toda la impresora.-

[@JRTOYSCOLECIONAVEIS]

Friend how much time do I leave ??

[@viandant5]

Few seconds

[@punnypunny1487]

Small Small payge page [y] navy Silver chip Softwear chip Butten chip Page roll?

[@vivye43]

I tried to reset as it's show on the video,original drum unit,just one resistor,put a jumper,but it wont reset,HELP PLEASE

[@viandant5]

You have to remove the jumper when printer start. Do not let the jumper too much time inside the drum unit

[@vivye43]

I did as shows in the video,original drum,does the same thing,jumper off...won't reset,same error message,does it really work or just a joke...

[@viandant5]

Yes, it should work, unless you made something wrong

[@Steve211Ucdhihifvshi]

try installing only the drum, no ink or waste toners and turn the printer on. let it do its startup. then turn it off, uninstall the jumper and then reinstall everything again and it should work.

[@TheAlfa159jtd]

avevo lo stesso problema e ho risolto anche seguendo questo video.Però usando il metodo del video cioè mettendo un pezzo di rame non si resettava ma si bloccava appena partiva il controllo.Leggendo altre notizie su internet ho capito che per resettare il drum serve una resistenza elettrica da 56 ohm da saldare in parallelo a quella già esistente-Il mio contatore è quello che ha una sola resistenza,so che ci sono modelli con due,ma la soluzione è sempre uguale.In quelli con due bisogna non toccare quella piccolina marrone e rimuovere quelle verde e saldarci la nuova da 56 ohm,in quelli con una sola resistenza,tipo il mio,non cè bisogno di rimuovere nulla ma solo saldarci la nuova.Appena saldata,avviate la stampante e inizierà la procedura ma probabilmente si bloccherà,riaccendete e rifate nuovamente e si ribloccherà,allora spegnete nuovamente,estraete il contenitore dove ci sono le resitenze e noterete che la nuova appena saldata è bruciata,si sentirà la puzza anche.Qst significa che il reset è avvenuto con successo e quindi rimuovetela da dove era stata saldata.A qst punto riposizionate nel suo alloggio e riaccendete,la procedura stavolta durerà qualche minuto finchè nn vi darà la luce verde fissa.

[@pokemon_france]

I solder 2 fuse resistor 50 ohm but it burned. Why ?

[@viandant5]

it's only one resistance

[@pokemon_france]

@@viandant5 but i replace both with resistance but they burned

[@viandant5]

@@pokemon_france Do not replace the other component

[@pokemon_france]

@@viandant5 it's yet done i replace the both, but i keep them, which one that i need to let ?

[@pokemon_france]

And which one i have to replace by à 100 ohm resistor ?

[@shihanhaleem6006]

good

[@viandant5]

+shihan haleem thank you

[@henritournel9518]

CLP 320 Nothing has changed

[@blackkugu5396]

clp 325 reset ?

[@viandant5]

It's the same

[@blackkugu5396]

@@viandant5 thanks

[@leleganza83]

Riguardo a questo video io volevo resettarla ma ho fatto una stupidata o messo del nastro isolante dalla parte opposta la stampante lo accesa e poi non si spegneva più ..poi ho staccato la spina e non si è più riaccesa..cosa può essere successo è rimediabile oppure no

[@viandant5]

non ho capito, del nastro isolante dove?

[@leleganza83]

viandant5 nel sensore dellla matrice ...dove la stampante presumo riconosce la matrice stessa

[@viandant5]

non credo che questo possa aver danneggiato la macchina. Però il fatto che non si accenda proprio indica forse un problema all'alimentatore

[@victordandrea3641]

Just the heat

[@llor150]

How reset a toner on CLP 365? anybody help me?

[@viandant5]

you have to change the chip

[@donalddunow6898]

As you probably know, each cartridge only allows x-amount of pages to be printed before it requires you to replace the pricey cartridge. I have found 2 ways to get around this. 1. You can purchase a single chip online that you affix over the current chip, that tells the printer it's a new cartridge. I've seen 4-packs for about $12 online, even Amazon. But this needs to be done over and over every time you reach that limit. And of course, when your toner actually does run out, for about $5 you can buy refill kits. 2. Better solution, which is what I've done. You can purchase a chip online that you have to solder into one of the circuit boards. It's a little bit of work, but not at all difficult. Every time you turn on your printer, that chip tells the printer that ALL of the cartridges are brand new. So instead of replacing the chip every few months, this is a permanent solution where you will never have to replace anything again except toner.

[@Romio666]

She can I get this jumper

[@viandant5]

It's only a copper wire

[@Romio666]

viandant5 so I can cut any wire and put it there ?

[@viandant5]

If conductive, yes

[@Romio666]

Thank you so much for caring to reply. I actually still do not understand, why the printer 🖨 is giving this message 🤷‍♂️

[@victordandrea3641]

Anastasia heat

[@hiothebest3737]

A me non va clp 360......

[@InsuLaser-Ar]

no is trust

[@Kuasarakyat2]

Typo: resetting

[@george240986]

Oh shit!!!My Samsung c460W is broken now cant heat. Start heating all the time and its fucked up :((((( better to buy new chip. I hold insade about 30 sekund. i think was too long :(((

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[@TheAlfa159jtd]

quelle che vendono a 20 euro su internet verde non sono altro che reistsenze da 56 ohm camuffate.Io lo pagata 1 euro, 50 pezzi su ebay!!!!!

[@mrmink9]

1 resistor = 100usd 😂😂😂😂😂😂

[@cytosars]

it's burn the CURRENT REGULATOR

[@jublywubly]

0:19 There is no chip or "thermal fuse" in there. Both components are resistors. One resister (the top one) has current from left to right. The bottom resistor has current flowing from right to left. Unsurprisingly, these instructions did not work with my CLP-320N. I followed all the instructions. Turning the printer back on, for the first step, it cycled through the toner check lights, just once, then the printer turned itself off. I unplugged the printer, again, and removed the piece of wire that I had soldered in place. I then put it all back together and restarted the printer again, as instructed in the video. The printer seemed to pass all its checks, but it wouldn't print. It just showed the same big red light as it did before I started trying to fix it. It seems obvious that the drum unit needs both resistors to complete a circuit, or it won't operate, because it will sense something is wrong. I soldered the original resistor back in place (the correct way around) and put the entire printer back together again. Once again, it cycled through the usual checks and sat with the big green light on, as it did before. Just like before I even started trying to fix the printer, it got ready to print, but stopped and left the big red light glowing again. I have no idea if I can solve the problem by replacing the drum unit (the error only began after I cleaned out all the old used toner and cleaned the drum). Given the drum costs about 1/3 of the cost of the printer, it's not really worth the risk.

[@murathanalpay815]

same thing happened, and i have a CLP-325, did you solve the problem by purchasing a new drum unit? If it works, i will buy a new drum too.

[@jublywubly]

@@murathanalpay815 I haven't got around to it, because a replacement drum is just over 1/3 what I originally paid for the printer. However, I do have a full set of new toners and I can't find another colour laser (actually LED) printer that's as compact as the Samsung. Samsung don't seem to make laser/LED printers any more, either.

[@murathanalpay815]

@@jublywubly I also got the full set of new toners just before the error and couldn't use them even once because of that, would you advise replacing the drum unit? Since Samsung is not making any new printers, is it good to buy a new one or replacing, from your comment i understood that if you can give the amount, it would be better to replace but since the printer is already 9 years old, it can be diffucult to find the exact drum unit...