How to route steam vents on LS swap. Drill and tap the water pump for a barbed fitting

[@Squarebody1987]

Thanks for the videos man keep up the good swapping 👍🏽👍🏽💯

[@StationroadRatrods]

Imma keep posting! Lots of work left to do yet

[@customfinishcarpentryandmi8053]

Love your build bro keep it up

[@StationroadRatrods]

Thanks buddy!

[@Damnitbobby257]

What size drill bit did u use

[@StationroadRatrods]

Hoo boy I don’t remember, I should have said it in the video, guess I missed that part. If you google “what size drill for 1/8 npt tap” it should come up for you

[@lazyfocus3874]

What size is the thread pitch?

[@StationroadRatrods]

It’s 1/8 NPT for the fitting

[@ladonscamaro2704]

What size tap did you use

[@StationroadRatrods]

That was a 1/8 NPT tap, I should have mentioned that in the video

[@damienhudson8230]

You're my hero

[@StationroadRatrods]

You’re my hero! 😁

[@kravmaga7070]

as for steamport, dont you generally have to vent it to a higher position in cooling system? my stupid steam port is the worst. it goes straight up to the throttle body comes out the other side so its already much higher than any of the cooling system.

[@StationroadRatrods]

They do recommend having it higher so air bubbles can easily get out, but they’ll have no trouble going through the water pump, a lot of people have done it and it works really wel, I have the same setup on the rat rod

[@kravmaga7070]

@@StationroadRatrods so you left it connected to the throttle body like that? what does that do anyways?

[@StationroadRatrods]

I should have gotten a better angle. I didn’t have it connected to the throttle body, I actually always bypass that, because it sends coolant through the throttle body to help heat up faster in colder climates, but it heats the throttle body, driving up air temperature and can cause power loss

[@sienile]

Being it's in the water pump outlet and angled with it, it will probably have a venturi effect and pull from the air bleed. Probably a better design than stock. Throttle body heaters are to keep your throttle from freezing in deep winter. As Barry said, they're not vital in most climates. Though power loss is small, it would be nice if they were ambient temperature activated instead of always on.

[@StationroadRatrods]

Nailed it

[@kravmaga7070]

I know that nervous feeling. Im trying to tune my one and only PCM. I made the bench harness. Read and saved the stock bin with PcmHammer. Removed the VATs and enabled electric fans with TunerPro and saved it but it gave me this error on saving; Error-one or more checksums could not be updated. check checksum adresses etc, for validity. ive asked around on tunerpro forum, asked the guy who gave me the XDF, asked quite a few Yt channels. Noone seems to know what that means or how to fix it. Finally emailed creator who gave me his tinytuner application which supposedly fixes the checksums automatically. it seems too easy and very hestitant to write the bin to my only PCM you ever run into this type of error tuning?

[@StationroadRatrods]

Hey man sorry I haven’t ran into that before, are you using HPtuners? And if your pcm bricks I may have one that’ll help you, what’s the last 4 digits on the serial number?

[@kravmaga7070]

@@StationroadRatrods No i used PcmHammer to read and copy the PCM. Then I used TunerPro to remove the VATs and Enable electric fans I have Serv. No. 12200411 on my pcm sticker.

[@StationroadRatrods]

Okay, I’ve never heard of any of that haha but if it bricks on you and you don’t have a spare let me know, I may have an extra one to send you.

[@kravmaga7070]

@@StationroadRatrods that would be great man, let me know. im waiting for exhaust parts arriving wednesday to build new ypipe and finish exhaust before i will be ready to start it.

[@StationroadRatrods]

Post a video on the Facebook group if you like! I’d love to hear it