How to save money and change injectors yourself on an on AUDI Q7 3.0 TDI

[@marcoaurelio6941]

You are one of those guys. real one! cheers

[@peters7141]

Nice vid but may i add recommendations 1.use original or bosh seal sets 2.if ussing old brackets that hold down the injectors torque the nuts to 10nm if ussing new torque to 9 nm. Overtorque may lead to damaging the copper seals.

[@D-Stealth]

Hi! Thanks for your comment! Of course the seals must be new. In this case, the injectors were already supplied with copper sealing rings.

[@dusanmaslarevic561]

Great video, straight to the point. 1 of those videos where any question would be simply redundant. Still, Ive got 1, what kind of spray is that 1 u used for the o-rings. I'm assuming some silicon spray etc? Cheers, thanks

[@D-Stealth]

Yeah, it was silicone spray. It was needed here to keep the rubber o-rings from biting. To be honest, I used a thicker silicone grease on the last injectors to lubricate the rings. Otherwise the nozzles would not fit properly.

[@blackforestrc1402]

perfect Video...great man...thanks

[@thevinylwrapper]

hey mate, whats the fuel consumption like after replacing them? Did you code them as they were new? I assume you wrote down the codes of the previous ones and the codes and position of the new ones to code later on? Thanks for the video! Going to dive into mine soon. My consumption is also too high :(

[@D-Stealth]

Hi. I photographed the injector codes before installing, and then coded in VCDS. The codes are normally visible after installation. My fuel consumption went down, but not much. I think the previous owner did a bad chip tuning. I will re-flash to the original firmware. Maybe I will make a video.

[@thevinylwrapper]

@@D-Stealth nice. My 4L does 10/100 highway and 16/100 city driving. all the people I know driving 4Ls do 7/100 highway and 11/100 city driving. my previous 4L used to do 8.5/100 average. this one now is too heavy on fuel for my taste (especially as I deleted dpf and egr and remapped) lets see what it looks like when I replace the injectors. thnks for the video mate! cheers.

[@R_e_l_a_x_z_o_n_e]

Hi, you removed copper washers do you need to put them back? Also for VCDS what interface you are using?

[@D-Stealth]

Hi! It is absolutely necessary to use NEW washers! In my case, the new injectors had copper washers. What do you mean by interface? Port, cord, CAN?

[@loubakker5049]

Thought the same.

[@D-Stealth]

@@loubakker5049 thought about putting the old washers back on?

[@AdrianDraghiceanu]

If you take it same injector from the car just to take it out to change the sleals and put back you need still reprogramming ?

[@D-Stealth]

If the injector has not been disassembled, and it is placed in the same cylinder, there is no need to program. The engine block will apply the corrections it has previously learned. It is required to program new, remanufactured, or from another machine.

[@muhammadtaha1362]

how can I get VCDS?

[@cristianchile5316]

04:10 , que es lo que estás aplicando?

[@D-Stealth]

Hola. Liquid silicone grease, so as not to damage the rubber seals. After putting it on, there is no grease left.

[@cristianchile5316]

@@D-Stealth muchas gracias por el dato, saludos..

[@vadfred]

хорошее видео ..Спасибо! есть вопрос..как снимать линию обратки..там какая то клипса ? что на что нажимать? или просто усилием ..ключа на 10мм вытолкнуть?Спасибо

[@D-Stealth]

@@vadfred Привет. Если я правильно помню, там верхняя шляпка вытаскивается наверх. После этого можно снять. Силой тянуть не стоит, она срезает резиновое колечко на обратке. Кстати их стоит купить. Они дубовые обычно и рассыпаются.

[@vadfred]

@@D-Stealth спасибо..я потом погуглил-да- вверх поднять.вчера менял один инжектор.всё просто-посмотрим что сейчас по кодам вылезет-еще не ездил после.видео хорошее у тебя-Спасибо-я сам тож из Латвии из Риги-25 лет как уехал.

[@cristianchile5316]

03:52 , como se compran esos oríng , tienen algún nombre específico??? Saludos

[@D-Stealth]

hi! This is the gasket for the injector housing EL219950 ELRING.

[@cristianchile5316]

@D-Stealth muchas gracias amigo, saludos

[@cristianchile5316]

Y como se sangra el circuito?????? Yo saque esos inyectores y los desarme , botaron todo el diesel y ahora no he podido encender el motor , como saco el aire del inyector?

[@D-Stealth]

HI! If you change the injectors, there's not much air. You can turn the ignition on a few times and then crank the starter for about 5 seconds and it will start. What made you take the injectors apart?

[@cristianchile5316]

@@D-Stealth ya ok muchas gracias , Se probaron en banco de prueba y todos inyectores están buenos, se limpio toda la admisión, se cambió actuador del turbo, se cambió cuerpo de aceleración, se cambió flujómetro, se elimino dpf físicamente y en la computadora, el problema sigue , humo gris en ralentí y a bajas velocidad, con alta velocidad el problema desaparece .. 🤦🤷

[@cristianchile5316]

@@D-Stealth kzbin.info__PDDJzMlPo?si=5_3smU2GeAzYpOdd

[@D-Stealth]

@@cristianchile5316 Hi! What does gray smoke smell like? If you put a piece of paper in the smoke, what kind of traces does it leave? 1. Is the crankcase ventilation system intact, not clogged? 2. Is the EGR valve OK?

[@marcoaurelio6941]

why did you changed those by the way

[@D-Stealth]

Consumption in the city 28l/100km. And the injectors are ringing.

[@marcoaurelio6941]

@@D-Stealth 28l/100km mentioned on the dash? or the dash said lower values even though you were aware that it was consuming more?

[@D-Stealth]

@@marcoaurelio6941 The dashboard indicated from 25l/100km to 30l/100km. On the highway it showed 10-12l/100km. Bench test of injectors showed that all of them were leaking. The injectors are not repairable. We had to buy new ones.

[@marcoaurelio6941]

@@D-Stealth Thank you for that information. how much were the Injectors directly from Bosch? and by the way which engine is this? CAPA 1st gen or 2nd gen? from which year is the car?

[@D-Stealth]

@@marcoaurelio6941 310 Eur per injector. I have a CCMA engine. 2010 model year.

[@Hasohaso9]

Vi imate fabricku manu na povrat goriva iz rail sine na taj motor potrebno je da se prepravi da bi taj motor radio kako treba

[@D-Stealth]

HI! I have a CCMA motor, I haven't heard of a fuel return line problem on it. Anyway thanks, I'll check it out.

[@600barron]

Who wants me to fly them to San Diego for Spring Break to do this for me on my Audi?

[@D-Stealth]

Easy, but the tickets are on you :)

[@600barron]

@@D-Stealth no problem. Where do you want to fly in from?

[@D-Stealth]

@@600barron I'm from Latvia.) Come on, I'm just kidding :)

[@pr1sm55]

Missing: You did not show viewers that it's important to use some injector grease for the copper washer to keep it from falling. Also, big mistake you made in your video: DO NOT TIGHTEN THE NUTS FOR THE PRESSURE PLATE IN ONE GO! That's crazy. You need to tighten each nut maybe 45 degrees, even better 25 degrees for right then 25 degrees for left and so on. If you tighten the nuts one side all the way, it can damage the shaft and wedge the injector in not perfectly straight.

[@D-Stealth]

Hi! the new copper washers on the new injectors are tight. There is no need to use grease. Actually, if the washers fall off, it means that the end of the injector is burned out and needs to be replaced. That's what I was told at a special service for diesel injector repair. Anyway, I was showing how I install the NEW injectors. Regarding installing the spring clip. I checked the service manual and found no tightening instructions other than nut torque. And it is 9 newtons per meter. The clamp cannot bend the nozzle because the nozzle is in place and the clamp just holds it in place. In any case, if you can tell me in which service manual you saw this field for CCMA engine, I will learn it with interest.

[@ramymadini6761]

Can you please give me the article number of the injector removal puller? I have audi q7 year 2008 diesel

[@D-Stealth]

Hi. I've been using Тoptul JGAI0101.

[@ramymadini6761]

3.0