How to "Scorpion" like Janja Garnbret (Underrated Technique)

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⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Context
00:32 Consequences of not using this technique...
01:00 The secret about this technique
02:17 This routine + 2 BONUS exercises are on CRIMPD!
02:47 Find the form
03:34 Refine the form
04:26 Try it on the wall
05:55 Add complexity
07:56 Add complexity and physicality
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 144
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/s...
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
🖼️ IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS
vecteezy.com
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy

[@HoopersBeta]

P.S. there are two bonus introductory drills for this routine (as well as all the other drills) in the CRIMPD app 🥳 Enter to Win Crimpd+ for LIFE by Downloading the FREE Crimpd App & Logging “Scorpion Technique Workout” ▶ www.crimpd.com/

[@jinbas]

Was actually discussing this with my brother earlier today and was trying to come up with drills to get rid of this bad habit i've developed of cutting cannonball style. Think a lot of it comes from trying to avoid dabs on sitstarts since we have A LOT of them around here. This video couldnt have come at a better time. Thank you!

[@HoopersBeta]

Oh yeah that's an interesting point. It would certainly develop the habit if that's what you are constantly fighting against, so it may take a bit of training to undo it, but these drills could absolutely unlock that for you. Thanks for sharing!

[@silentdiscretion2657]

I love how useful it actually is. Most of the time, when something is super flashy like this, it's usually just that. Flashy. But this is flashy and useful, and I'm so happy about that

[@HoopersBeta]

Haha you're right! This not only looks super cool.... but turns out it's extremely useful also! Those two don't always go hand-in-hand.

[@icyfigher]

The best part of the scorpion kick is that it is incredibly pleasing to watch and do. It just feels good. I hate it when you re close to the ground and need to cannonball to not touch the ground.

[@BS-xs7jb]

This channel is so underrated wtf

[@HoopersBeta]

Better than being overrated I suppose! hah.

[@thomaswimmer6992]

Pneuma 6A+ on the 40° 2019 Moon board is a good Boulder to try it out! Really enjoyed the boulder thanks to watch this video just before.

[@derbaum5509]

Damn, my thoughts: -No idea if I'm doing that or not so super excited to try it out and see -So incredibly useful to see Jason try the drills. They look easy when Dan does them but then you realize they might need a lot of practice -Asking myself if the end goal is to be mindful of this movement or do it instinctively Amyway, great video, thank you!

[@HoopersBeta]

Great thoughts! Definitely a great idea to record yourself and see what your instinct is. And I agree, Dan is so skilled that he can make it quite easy compared to the rest of us ;) hah. I definitely need more practice with it! In general, the end goal is indeed to make the movement more of a natural response, but that typically requires mindful practice of the movement off and on the wall (and sometimes refreshers over time). But, overtime it certainly can become more natural.

[@cameronbarnett4017]

Angel Dyno at Kraft Boulders in Vegas is a great example of a boulder that I kept punting with a pendulum and got it the first attempt after my friend told me to scorpion. It’s cool to see you really break down the move and see why it works.

[@HoopersBeta]

Oh nice, that's awesome! That would be a great side by side comparison if you recorded it!

[@nilsunger4190]

Great video and great home wall. Would be great to have a video about your home wall setup. Thx for your content

[@withaspoon8]

Great video! Do you already have any content about the types of moves that cause the scorpion, e.g. moonkick/jumping up to holds on steep climbs? I've been looking around and can't find much that discusses the body mechanics of it. Any drills or what to think about when doing those moves would be amazing.

[@stefanofalero]

yess i guessed righttt. decoupling the momentum of the lower body from your hands to maintain the handgle (hand angle)

[@daffydus]

Nice! I'm excited to try this. Can you use the scorpion on big sideways dynamic moves without a lot of overhang as well? Would be interesting to see a follow up video with that

[@lazaraza]

Back in the days when I was slacklining, I used to say to the curious passers-by eager to try the line: "Use your leg that is not on the line as your tail, imagine you are a squirrel and your free leg is your tail, now fly..." ... I'm just saying

[@Kraaketaer]

Super useful! Doing drills like this is probably a bit above my level (at least anything beyond the first couple of levels), but this is still a super useful type of movement awareness that's definitely going to pay off. Though I do feel you contradict yourself a bit at one point - saying this is mainly a shoulder/upper body thing, and then towards the end pointing out that it's almost as much about relaxing and being loose in the lower back, hips and legs. Learning when to relax and how doing so can increase control on the wall is definitely a super useful skill too!

[@charlesmichelson6845]

Super usefull🙌. More of this. Thanks.

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad it was helpful!

[@nandovancreij]

really interesting topic, i realize ive developed this technique unconscously through lots of board climbing, now i can recognize the concept of a scorpion in the majority of dynamic moves on poor holds, even hand bumps

[@HoopersBeta]

That's awesome that you learned it passively! It's definitely a great skill to have.

[@NestorMandela]

Nice! This would work wonders on my kilter sessions at 40° 😊

[@cyhe66]

One thing to note, though, is that you aren't able to scorpion on lowball dyno moves, you'd otherwise dab. Could be interesting to see a similar video on the "cannonball" move, on how to grab holds but also keep your feet off of the ground when scorpion isn't an option.

[@danielbeall7725]

We mentioned that in the “when not to”. We had originally considered covering specific adjustments for unusual situations (or frequent ones like lowballs), but decided it would make the video too long and possibly hard to follow. Good suggestion though! Hopefully we’ll get a chance to dive into it in the future.

[@HoopersBeta]

Sorry I never actually put the "when no to" section in the video :P Here's Dan original list: - Scorpioning is most important on poor holds when you really need to minimize swing. - ⁠Not always necessary on really good holds and trying to scorpion may be a waste of energy - ⁠Any time you don’t want to reduce a swing (jumping into directional holds like side pulls or underclings, or of course, coordination moves) - ⁠When you’re low on a climb, and it’s necessary to ball up to avoid dabbing or hitting the ground - ⁠Probably some other uncommon circumstances, because climbing is like that.

[@danielbeall7725]

@@HoopersBeta having watched this vid like 3 times I probably should’ve realized that, but my mind kept editing it in there anyways 😂

[@moehassani]

That’s really interesting. It looks like upper thoracic mobility is a key in being able to use this. Which is interesting given lots of climbers have a lot of limitations in that area. Thank you for the video!

[@James-mr5kb]

Good observation. So this should be combined with the cobra pose (on gymnastic rings or TRX if available) and German hangs to maximize shoulder flexibility.

[@danielbeall7725]

⁠@@James-mr5kbWouldn’t be a bad idea!

[@AvianSolaris]

So cool, thank you for sharing!!! I didn’t realize that the little scorpion kick I like to do actually is an existing useful skill! 😄

[@HoopersBeta]

Always a fun realization, right?

[@Strummify]

dan's technique is awesome to watch. wondering if Jason has tight hip flexors and maybe thats why he cant scorpion as nice. super helpful video.

[@RossPotts]

I think I started doing this about a year ago in small increments. I just noticed one day that I was more stable in an overhang if I kicked out a foot in dynos. Still working on the correct use of the scapular contraction, but it has helped me be more consistent in 5.10, so that I can get more time in on those grades for advancement

[@HoopersBeta]

Great discovery! You should try out some of the routines in the Crimpd app to see if that helps with the scapular component.

[@RossPotts]

@@HoopersBeta I definitely will be looking into this, as I have stagnated around 5.10c

[@tunahanefe9954]

hi can u make a video for FDS injury whic exercise for strenght FDS

[@oleshikaru]

this was great! ive been doing the trash tucked version a lot i think so its time for a change haha!

[@HoopersBeta]

Yew! Get it!

[@gradexunderx7452]

Kinda off topic, but Dans (at least I think it’s his) home setup looks phenomenal

[@HoopersBeta]

It’s so good!!

[@alicewong6875]

Often in climbing we're pulling big moves both up and laterally (ie. flagging left and reaching up right) and we need to cut for these moves, should the way we scorpion be different? ie. swing the right leg out first/more?

[@johnblack7862]

Does this technique apply only when you catch a hold with bent arms? I'm having a hard time imagining how this would look if you caught a hold with a straight arm?!

[@aloadofhassell]

I've needed this video, without knowing it, so badly. I have a habit of doing a 'pendulum' whenever I cut. It's most apparent on Moonboard problems, especially given I'm pretty short. A good example is Altitude 6B+ on the 2019 set. Despite having sent 7A+ problems, I consistently can't hold the swing on that move. This video explains exactly why I'm struggling and I'm really excited to train the scorpion now 😁 Thanks very much!

[@HoopersBeta]

That’s great that you’re able to identify the problem so specifically! Some scorpion practice should go a long way :) -Emile

[@johannesrobke5504]

what a banger video, i am excited to try it out! thanks :D

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad you think so! Let us know how it goes.

[@masterelko320]

Would love to do scorpions on Real pamplemousse 7c+ last move... but you need to cannonball because of the dab 😢😢

[@jzm2843]

Your home wall looks about 40 degrees? Thanks for the great content.

[@HoopersBeta]

Around 50 :)

[@krakenattackin7617]

Someone show Megos this video... he needs it

[@yercules]

It's the exact same motion of dunking a basketbal or volleyball smash. It's beautiful.

[@nickdesilva9721]

Are face pulls an external shoulder rotation exercise? If so, would it be more beneficial to do weighted external rotations if you are weak in the position?

[@veglord4481]

External rotaion + scapular retraction? Facepulls are great for weak shoulders, just start light and with control. Check your form. A cable machine with a rope attachement is A+ but bands do the job. You can also do a similar exercise with trx or gymnastic rings a facepull row, but that requires a little more coordination and strength initially.

[@stevenyoung5210]

How do you know when to do this vs. digging in and trying not to cut feet?

[@HoopersBeta]

If you’re able to keep your feet on the wall for a given move, there’s no reason force a foot cut. The scorpion technique is just what you should do almost any time you do end up cutting feet. Of course, the amount of swing and scorpion “flare” will depend on how much momentum you have. Some scorpions will end up being quite subtle. As Dan mentions in the video, the characteristic scorpion flare is actually somewhat of a byproduct of the way you engage your back and shoulder muscles. -Emile

[@yungrut6553]

Yeh cool thanks

[@Taykorjg]

So this would be like a progression from peter pan drills?

[@donkyuhbuhts540]

Nice

[@fadhlysukawidjaja174]

I would really like to do this in the gym, but swinging hard on a hang board in public is may be too jarring. ill stick to the spray wall lol

[@HoopersBeta]

Hah considering some of the things people do in gyms, and that fact that you'd be doing it in a climbing gym, I feel like people would be more interested in your secret beta than thinking it's jarring. Just my thought though :)

[@matejnovosad9152]

How many more videos about the scorpion will this channel make??? Discuss in the replies...

[@danielbeall7725]

This is the first one, soooo probably not too many more 😂

[@samkim872]

🤯🤯🤯💥💥💥

[@Emil_Ortiz]

coLlisiOn fRaCtUrinG 🥴

[@wisconsinair]

Oh thank the lord we’ve moved away from all that anatomy stuff. So much better content now. Yeah ok, I’ll subscribe now.