I really loved this video! I think it really showed that the amount of strength and technique relative to each other really depends on many aspects of the climb/climber. Coordination run and jump boulders are on one end requiring more technique, whereas overhanging hard crimp lines are probably at the other end requiring more strength. It is also important to note what we mean specifically by strength and technique. Crimp strength and lock off strength, though they affect one another, are very different. Being able to coordinate jumpy dynos is very different from throwing a heel hook above your head. In general, I don't think it's possible to completely separate strength and technique. I would define technique as the ability to coordinate the timing and degree of activation of different muscles in concert with one another. And of course, as you raise the amount of force muscles can apply, the more you raise your ceiling of possible learned techniques. Having more strength doesn't automatically give you more technique, but gives you a larger pool of techniques to learn from. This doesn't even take into account body morphology, flexibility/mobility(ROM and strength at/near end ROM), neuromuscular connections, psychology, etc. And of course this is why I love climbing. There are so many vastly different areas to improve in and so many ways those areas interact with each other I can never get bored :D

Your very cute!!

And what for we need to do this squat? And maybe it's not even healthy to do?

20yrs og rehab since Iraq and yrars of trail running n marathons. Great info. Thank You!

Will this work , if we have to jump from one platform to another?

Cant use technique, if you can't hold the hold

Et pour ceux qui ont des pieds plats ? Avez-vous des techniques ? Matthieu du Québec ✌️

simply amazing. could you do a follow along version of workout like this one ?

Thanks Doc.

Thanks for the great and very in-depth video! I love your channel. I have one question/ suggestion. Because you address the role of hormones in relation to healing, could you address how the female hormone cycle impact healing? I know that most of your audience is probably men, but there's still many female climbers, and it'd be nice to know which of the scientific studies you cite consider how female bodies work. Considering the way scientific/medical research typically overlooks that our bodies work differently in many ways (beyond just reproduction) I'd like to learn more about how this affects climbing-specific training and injury prevention. From what I've learned, I'm guessing that there are a few weeks when the hormones in female bodies support faster healing, but I'm not sure. Any thoughts? Thanks again for the phenomenal content you consistently put out! :)

Nah, if I dont get it, it's because my arms are too sore from the climbing sessions

Hi Hooper, I wathced all Emil's and yours videos about 30 days no hang and something come to my mind. There is a Czech physiotherapist Dr. Jiří Čumpelík and his theory of "Functional Movement". Some guys in Czechia (mainly Jakub Novotný) are tyring to interpret this hteory to climbing. Theory in short is that every movement should come form a feet and if you are able to push from feet then you engage more muscles in your back and you are able to give better performace. There are even videos about theory but unfotunaterlly only in Czech. But even from only a picture you can see some similarities with 30 days program: kzbin.info/www/bejne/aGXXnpiVjNJ7m6csi=icLP8EUyA-8TIyEw&t=477

Perhaps it is all about the mitochondria which produce ATP? I used this protocoll with great benefits. After 1 week I did 12 pull-ups instead of 6. After 6 weeks I climbed 6b+ in the climbing halls instead of 6a. I had no muscle increase. I suppose that I improved my metabolism. The top runners for 100 m produce about 7 times more ATP per second than an amateur runner. They have trained their mitochondria to a maximum: more mitochondria per muscle cell and more efficient in output of ATP. Training till failure implies damages of muscle cells and long training sessions. Reparation takes time. It is a setback. Is that really necessary? Yes is the answer of all people who make their money by giving long lessons or by renting their gyms. Think of adaptation in our evolution. We do not adapt to a single event/stimulus but to a series of stimulation - to repetition. The repetitions do not require maximum.

I climbed through my pregnancy and my technique has improved a lot. I'm trusting my feet and balance so much more now. You guys all should try getting pregnant 😂 Gain lots of weight in inconvenient places and lose abs at the same time. It's wonderful, I promise!

Just climb more often. You don't have to do a 2 hour session every time, but get on the wall!

I think especially for beginner climbers lack of hand strength can really impact technique.. leaning out more for smearing for example.

Put Ross on something harder!

Regression me.

My left ankles have poor flexibility while my right hipflexor suffers the same

Blood test results before, during & after would have been useful... I went through the vid quickly & didn't see this.

I am a bit confused and would appreciate some thoughts on this: I’ve read strong recommendations about avoiding training to failure particularly for non-hypertrophy training. On the other hand, endurance training seem to suggest, and the video mentions this too, the need to training to failure. What is the missing part in between these two advice which would otherwise seem contradictory?

this is genius! i must try this. thanks, Doc!

Both matter. 13 years ago I got hit by a car and lost most of my upper body strength because of broken bones I could use my arms for months. When my bones have healed I could touch my thumb with my middle finger while wrapping that hand around my left upper arm. I was struggling with FB2. After a few weeks I was able to climb several FB5a but I still have not been able to do a single pull up. Before the accident I relied to much on my strength. My technique improved a lot. Last year I injured my hand and suffered several months from post covid. Now I fall of all the time. I do movements that are right and I used to do them but my hands open up if I don't have a big jug to hold on or I'm not able to pull my weight.

Does anyone know how to set up the tension block as shown at 12:29?

It would be interesting to see Ross climb an easy climb loaded to a similar percentage of max strength as Aleena's strength/weight (e.g. scale Ross's max hang weight by aleena's body weight / max hang weight)

Lol. That’s me, no friends. Thanks for including me.

I wonder if you or Danielle can transform my mega fat body into a slim body like your guys

Very interesting video ! A slight caveat that I have is that the setup used, with the repetitions of a boulder with incrementally higher weight means that the technique on the specific moves will majorly improve between repetitions and thus makes it a bit harder to see in which aspects strength and technique matters. A potentially better way to show the importance of one or the other would be to discover new boulders at flash level with the weights on ; the number of attempts and the physical effort put through the climb could show if either strength/technique is limiting for the climber. Still though I think this experiment really shows how techniques allows you to climb efficiently but strength allows you better quality and amounts of attempts

I have been trying nerve flossing for a little while now but without real effect so far. However today I not only got my first full climbing session in but was also able to do pull ups on the beastmaker for the first time in months without pain. The key, at least for now, was to use a TENS unit across the ulnar nerve elbow entrapment point for a couple of hours prior to climbing. I even came back and continued beastmaker pull ups at home. My symptoms were crimping on the ring finger, and only the ring finger, caused extreme elbow pain.

Nobody mention that in your chest to the bar pullup, the chin was about a foot over the bar...

Maan my forearms feel aways pump. Doctor give me NSAIDs but didnt helped what shoud I do

I’m 58. I do these a lot! I aced the wall test! I even moved my feet further out, no problem! If someone can’t do these it might be both, hip mobility & ankle flexion. Work on it daily & keep the belly trim & in no time you’ll be able to do it! Do some squats while you’re in that position. The anterior & posterior muscles need to be equally strong & equally stretched. If you have a skeletal problem like I do that will cause the muscles to be imbalanced & that will make it more of a challenge but do your best , don’t give up & your body will thank you for it! ❤

It depends on the climb. For some climbs it doesn't matter how good your technique is, if you're just not strong enough you still won't be able to do it. For others, good technique can overcome lack of strength

so im pretty flexible split conditioning for years now, whats it mean if i can do this squat but my heel isnt flat? same thing?

So we can train with a weight belt and vest, and then take them off for maximal gains?

There is still a camp that thinks an pulley grows back together scarred but becomes more flexible and then those who say it's gone is gone and nothing similar comes back. Can some clarity be created?

Often in climbing we're pulling big moves both up and laterally (ie. flagging left and reaching up right) and we need to cut for these moves, should the way we scorpion be different? ie. swing the right leg out first/more?

couldn't get through this video with the distraction of "like" every third word. I generally really enjoy such videos, the format is cool, and i fully understand the need to fill out the sentences as you're trying to describe something, it just made the video too distracting to follow for me. or we'd need to make it into a drinking game and pass out in 5 minutes :)

thanks so much for the video! great content as always. BUT: what if all those test are negative... or kinda almost negative? recently I started feeling a pain in that area on the pinky side of the wrist - especially when doing mantles and such. so, when I started reading about TFCC, I was sooo sure that these test will be positive. but nope.... they're kinda.... not.

Calisthenics is the best work-out for any climber Lifting weights won't help that much until you reach a really high level

Summary 13:50

Why do the strength training after climbing? Doesn’t that make you more prone to injury? I usually do my strength training right after warmup and do bouldering afterwards, usually I even feels stronger on the wall, after some strength training.

I remember when I was just working out and not climbing, I saw very little improvement on rows. Haven’t really trained them in more than a year either. Not excited to see how weak I am.

Excellent 💟🌌☮️

I like that as an idea for training. Take a climb which requires 5 or so attempts to send, and then once sent progressively start adding more weight.

Did the wall test wrong

Also I'm pretty sure just groin strength in the lowest position is what helped my. If you do squats as low as you can like a workout it helped me a ton. More than stretching.

I am getting the feeling that absolute weight matters the most; not relative strength. When the holds are getting so small that you only have some single square cm to hold onto, then it seems you get are running into skin or connective tissue limitations, which seem orthogonal from muscle strength.

The problem is: you add dead weight. You should try this in a gravity chamber.

man i have been trying to train hard to progress faster but seems like im just ended up hurting myself and setting myself back info like these are much needed t h x