How-To Service The X03/X03.5, X04 & XT60 Motors. Hornby Triang.

[@danielnewman9176]

This video saved my sanity when I was trying to get a second-hand 4-6-0 to work for my disappointed 3 year old son. I will look through the rest of your work, as I have managed to use my son as an excuse to get into a hobby I wasn't able to afford as a child. Thanks for the exceptional instruction.

[@ukandrew]

John you are a star. Excellent video. This was exactly what I needed to boost my confidence and have a go at getting my old Tri-ang trains up and running again. Brilliant. Thank you John. For reference: 12/08/2023

[@conductor165YT]

Thanks for your help. My motor was not running at all but thanks to you, my engine will run again.

[@robmasterman]

After watching this superb video John, the one thing that jumped out at me was the need to endure good electrical contact throughout, and whilst I have always kept my loco motors clean, your use of the wire brush I found fascinating. I've just tried it out on an old X04 motor, placed it into an old B12 that hasn't run for ages, and the whole thing came to life, and runs like a sewing machine.....This has given me the confidence to tackle my other Triang locos now...so one again many thanks...Bob

[@TheExStig]

John, just came on to say your video is very important to collectors of vintage Scalextric cars as well. The motor you demonstrate is the same as the RX motor Tri-ang used for the early (60's) cars. I have been servicing these motors for years and have done so using the method you have shown. Well done and thanks, really enjoyed watching it.

[@robertwilkins1765]

Thanks for your inspiring video John. It makes one confident to take on locomotive disassembly , cleaning and repair even with the assistance of an "adult" beverage.

[@Toorakable]

Hi John, this has been my 'go to' video since discovering it in April 2020 during our NZ covid lock down. I 'rediscovered' my childhood Triang emu loco and was able to gradually restore it. In the process I also discovered ebay spare parts and a ton of old style locos - my partner groans in dispair! Currently working on a Hornby Princess Victoria. Love how bullet proof these motors are! All the best - David

[@emprivate]

Thanks for doing this. Just what I needed to get my original little loco going after 32 years of sitting in a box. Got it running around my feet in the lounge room right now. Cheers.

[@BeansBricks]

Hi John, this is a great informative video you've made. I have a couple of Triang X04 motors that seem to be catching fire around the brushes, now with watching your video im confident in taking the brushes off and cleaning them and with any luck getting them to work without any problems. Thanks keep up the great work Gareth

[@chambs123]

+GW MJ Hi Gareth & thanks for the comment & kind words. One thing worth mentioning here is that fire around the commutator is usually a sign of a shorted coil on one of the three that there are on the X0? motors. Once you have given them the full service you would be best to meter the three coils to see if they are all the same resistance (usually about .2 ohm tolerance is fine). I have shown how to do this on the bogie servicing video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/lZvHhp-sadRmj6s Hope that helps? Cheers, John.

[@chambs123]

Hi Steve....like so many other people I am glad that the video was a help to you....this is the very reason why I did it! There doesn't seem to another one like it on KZbin so.....again...I did it to help others get there old locos back to life! Cheers, John. PS. Brandy does just-as-good-a-job! Lol :-)

[@bewseybill3691]

A glass fibre brush is my preferred method. It restores the copper appearance without risk of damage.

[@MarkCurtis-s9w]

Good clear instructions. Thank you. Helped me with an old Class 08 shunter that was in need to TLC.

[@chambs123]

Hi Louis, glad the vid was of good use to you along with many others who have watched it. You can easily get the Neo magnets on ebay [search 'Triang Neo'] but I would advise you stay away from the small ones that you stick on the original magnet! A full-sized replacement is a much better bet! If you have any problems in getting them please get back to me. I have stock of these. Regards, John.

[@chambs123]

Hi Matt.....yes, just put everything back as it should be! One half of the brushes retaining spring should be un-insualted for the negative part of the supply to the motor whereas the other side of the same spring needes the insulating sleeve on it for the posative supply. Hope this helps you? Cheers, John.

[@ucwepn]

Thanks for this video :D the cleaning of the spring is the step I didn't do today on my R50 when I serviced it, but I did correct a problem with the positive wire plate being wedged in between the brush and the the frame, I resoldered the plate in the correct orientation on it's wire and placed it in between the insulator and the brush, will give the spring a clean tomorrow. I'm glad you show how to oil it at the end, that's the missing piece of the jigsaw hehe.

[@chambs123]

Thanks buddy....glad the vid was of help to you. Seasons greetings, cheers, John.

[@HORNEBEEDUBLO]

Thanks for uploading this very informative video. I would like to add a few things: The motor shown is in fact an X03 as it has a nylon worm. The otherwise identical X04 has a brass worm. I have also seen very late X04s without the felt pads, which probably was a cost saving measure. The original alnico magnets are weakened by dismantling as shown in the video and need remagnetising when re-assembled.

[@bladerunnersn]

As always your a great help to the model rail community John . Regards John

[@stevetorino5069]

Hi John, great video and very helpful. I’ve just serviced an old Hornby 57xx with ‘Synchrosmoke’ which was running very badly. Unfortunately I didn’t have any whiskey, but I’m pleased to say that brandy works equally as well and my old 57xx is now working very well indeed. Many thanks, Steve.

[@barrycollin7462]

Hi just watched this, 27/09/2020. Amazing, John. Lots of good detail and excellent tuition. I’ve ordered a Dremel 4000 with lots of accessories and a drill stand - just what I’ve been wanting for years! Thank you.

[@chambs123]

Hi Iain, glad you got the loco working again OK. As for the axles loose in the chassis yes. I have had this a few times. You first need to check where most wear is? Its usually more in the chassis. You need to strip the wheels off the axles & go to a modeling shop for some hollow tube that the axle fits in perfectly. You then drill the chassis out for a perfect fit of the tube. Cut off the required small length then tap [& or glue] into place. You are basically making a shim. Best regards, John.

[@HORNEBEEDUBLO]

A weakened magnet can be checked for by rubbing a screwdriver blade against the pole pieces. An X03 or X04 with a fully charged magnet can be picked up with it's rear crew fixing tab with a screwdriver. Running a motor with a weakened magnet will lead to overheating. I've seen a lot of these motors with worn bearings. Hold the armature shaft firmly and check for side to side play in the shaft.

[@tonywilliams9600]

Thanks John, some really good content there....clear and concise. Much appreciated!

[@bikerides]

Hi, John. Thanks for the vid and the responses from and to hornebeedublo. Really useful. I would advise always using a plastic friendly solvent - there will be newcomers watching this. We use so little that a commercial product from hobby shop will last even if it costs 10 times lighter petrol or isopropol. Also I prefer manual abrasive cleaning. Steel against copper will leave scratches and faster wear.

[@CZ350tuner]

Triang X01 and X02 servicing is similar. I recently serviced and rebuilt a Triang X02 motor from a 1952 R.50 Princess. Apart from the shorter magnet on the end and front plate, the X02 is the same as the X03. On the 1950 to 1952 R.50 Princess the chassis frames have to be dismantled. The X01 and X02 are interchangeable between the plunger pick up R.50 Princess and the 1952 wheeled pick up version. The X02 takes the same brushes as the X03 / X04 motor though the spring clip is slightly shorter.

[@rongoodwin4053]

Excellent demonstration, just what I needed, thank you.

[@trevorlloydlee4566]

Thanks for your really helpful video. I do much the same things that you do, plus one step I think you forgot to mention. The curved surface of each brush that rubs against the commutator also needs to be carefully wiped to clean the gunge from it. Trevor LL

[@chambs123]

Hi Trev....I thought I did show this in the video? I usually clean the excess carbon off with a cotten bud & lighter fuel. Maybe I forgot....it's a long time ago I did this video now! lol. Thanks for the comment, cheers, John.

[@skafook]

Wow John, have the same loco, she now runs like a beaut! Cheers from New Zealand!

[@FredWilbury]

Thanks for your helpful video, I bought a hornby 0-6-0 pannier a couple of years ago , now decided to run it as track ready , boy does it run crap and make a noise . Hopefully this vid will give cure . Thanks

[@chambs123]

+Fred' Sheddley Smockman I'm sure it will Fred...go for it & please let me know the outcome? All the best, John.

[@chambs123]

Hello again Michael, thanks for your comments on WD40. We have this here in the UK too & your method of servicing motors with this is interesting to say the least! We all do things that we fell is right for ourselves, but nevertheless thank you for your input to the article. Regards, John.

[@chambs123]

Thanks buddy & as I always say on my servicing/how-too vids....this is exactly why I did them! All the best, John.

[@jondewsnap2363]

First off John, great video and with 14,740 views (more than double your next video) its easy to see why. why then? Because as someone who has only minimal interest in model railways, the video assumes the watcher has no experience, which is where I put myself. My eldest daughter is now 5 and wanted a train set, which prompted me to dig out my old train set, which has not seen the light of day for about 25 years. Using this video I was able to get my Hornby class 8 (08201 from 1983) running smoothly again, however, like MRAJH1969 I also have a ringfield motor in my Hornby class 25 247 that needs work. I have put in new brushes & springs as one brush was missing and the springs were shot, with the result that the motor now turns over (only briefly) which is better than before however I need to take it apart and give it a good service as all metal work is tarnished. I have searched for a good vid but non about. How about it John? I would be very grateful and my 5 year old who is looking at me with puppy dog eyes agrees!

[@chambs1233]

Hello Jon. First of all I want to thank you for the great kind comments & words....I do my best. Everything you have said is duly noted, understood & agreed. I have had many people ask 'when are you going to do a video on the Ringfield motor'. This being the case I will do one ASAP. Your daughter sounds wonderful....please give her a Christmas kiss from me & I wish you & your family a very merry Xmas. All the best, John.

[@jondewsnap2363]

Cheers Jon, I've downloaded all the necessary service sheets from the Hornby collectors site and bought a couple of spare brass gears (S2290) as I won't be able to get the current one off without using cloth covered pliers, so could damage the soft metal, I've also bought a couple of spare axels as I'm a ham fisted kind of fella, also the gear retainer is tarnished (not oxidised) so neither Silvo & elbow grease, nor the wire brush on my dremmel will touch it, do I need to think of getting a new one or does the conductivity of the retainer not matter? If you could cover these in your upcoming video I will much appreciate it! The track I got out of the loft is badly oxidised and will take some cleaning so bit the bullet and bought my daughter a complete second hand Hornby set on ebay, the J83 (with type 7 motor) it came with was a non-runner, so got it for just £26, replaced the worm & worm wheel, which was the cause of the fault, spots of oil in the right places and away it went! well pleased and my daughter is going to love it come Christmas day! Merry Christmas to you to John, will keep an eye out for the vid in the new year once your hangover has cleared of course! All the best Jon D Dewsnap & Jenna Dewsnap

[@CZ350tuner]

Just blown up an X.04. motor in spectacular style on a 1960 Triang Hunslet 0-4-0 shunter. Was running it up with power direct to the chassis and pick up in my hand after servicing it when the commutator glowed bright orange on one segment, a flame surrounded the communtator area and the motor stopped spinning with a bang. The right hand brush is just a stump and a segment is now missing from the commutator. I'll have to canabalise another commutator from another armature of use industrial thermosetting super glue gel to fix the lost segment back on. This is only the second total motor blow up I've experienced in 40 years. The first was still in a Triang Jinty locomotive hurtling round a layout back in the 1970's when it started to spit tracer out of the cab followed by a bang and lack of progress. In that case it was a sperated commutator segment as well.

[@chambs123]

Yes Andy I have had this happen to me just a couple of times too. The last time was quite recent on a brand new Rivarossi loco! When this happens the problem is always a shorting coil (some turns have gone short). You will need to meter the three coils, they should all read the same. Hope that helps? Cheers, John.

[@CZ350tuner]

chambs123 Well it was 54 year old motor and perhaps running it at flat out (40,000 RPM) without a load was just too much centrifugal force for the aged armature varnish and glue holding the commutator segments in place. I've had commutator segments become loose as the original glue holding them in place deteriorate but the motor usually isn't running, has had damp set in and needs to fixed. I usually just replace the motor. Unfortunately these old Triang motors are 40 to 60 years old, depending when the locomotive was factory new, and Shellac varnish degrades with age over these decades. However all is not lost as aerosol armature varnish has been available since the 1970's for touching up armatures. I spent 2 years as an electric traction motor engineering apprentice in my youth so know a few tricks of the trade. It was because I used to repair Triang motors as a teenager that impressed the boss enough to take me on. One very old industry trick we used was to re-cook an armature with a short circuit in an oven (the factory oven was a Belling Classic 8 electric domestic cooker) after spraying with aerosol shellac varnish. This allowed the windings to flex and expand, the varnish to run in and when removed and left to cool, more than half the time the short circuit had gone for good. Shellac becomes liquid at 350 on a domestic cooker. Don't try this trick on a gas oven for obvious reasons (fume ignition hazard). There can also be other more dangerous female based hazards because of the stink cooking Shellac makes in a cooker and kitchen.....

[@chambs123]

Andy Reid Andy.....really loved this comment (though it was getting close to war & peace!!). Nevertheless...very interesting. I must say though that I have never had a com segment come off on any of my motors ever! All the best, John.

[@TATICMOOR]

Yet again another excellent viral for cleaning the X0? series motor units, especially for anyone to learn the maintenance of these motors. A great aide to giving your locomotives a longer life span and running time on your layout. So cheers John for showing this info to cleaning and the bonus tips for these motors.

[@chambs123]

Thanks John & I am very glad my service videos are a help to you. All the best, John.

[@TATICMOOR]

I did do a lot of maintenance for my old club in Belfast, until things turned sour (long story). Which I did for the member free of charge unless I needed parts. Rather than using the Dremal Brush I used very fine Wet & Dry Paper to clean all copper components completely. Another tip if your out and about a 9Volt Duracell battery and touch the 9v terminals to loco driving wheels. Then reverse the battery terminals on the wheels to check forward and reverse movement. For motors attach a 9v harness with croc clips to the power connection points to test motors, even lights etc. Though for LEDs you will need an in line resistor on the Pos+ side or you'll blow the LED.

[@chambs123]

Thanks again John....appreciated. My best, John.

[@SkyPilotXSX]

To be quite honest this is the most informative youtube video I have ever seen! Thank you so much, The conclusion from this is that a) I need a Dremel b) I need a compass that isn't the one on my iPhone, and c) I need one of those bad boy Neo Magnets!! Keep the video's coming. I'm new to all this and your help is invaluable! Cheers. Dave

[@daxtonjace6601]

I guess Im randomly asking but does anybody know of a way to get back into an Instagram account..? I was stupid forgot the login password. I would love any tricks you can give me

[@rockynasir3859]

@Daxton Jace Instablaster =)

[@daxtonjace6601]

@Rocky Nasir Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site thru google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

[@daxtonjace6601]

@Rocky Nasir it worked and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy:D Thank you so much you saved my account :D

[@rockynasir3859]

@Daxton Jace Glad I could help :D

[@samuelsal]

Thanks for doing this video. It really helped a newbie like me , get my Triang 0-6-0 battle space loco serviced and running:) followed step by step instructions and it works Great !

[@chambs123]

Hi buddy, glad the video helped yet another old loco back to life! Cheers, John.

[@chambs123]

No problem buddy. The stronger magnetic field of the Neo magnet will give a loco a lot more pulling power [but still limited to the wheels grip]. It will also give a much smaller spark on the brushes & commutator....the motor will also run cooler so all-in-all....the motor will run better, pull harder & proably last much longer too! Hope this helps you? Kind regards, John.

[@chambs123]

That's a real nice comment & much appreciated John. It always pleases me if I can help other people. My best regards, John.

[@scott0071000]

Hi John What a great video it was fantastic to see how easy you made it all look,Do you have more videos on youtube, It's been a great help to me and my trains, Thank You Graham

[@johnd8892]

Looking at the most recent reliable comments on this channel the news is John is selling his entire collection, moving and downsizing.

[@johndavis9470]

Hi John, super video and extremely helpful. I followed your instructions to service a X04 motor that was part of a 0-4-0 loco given to me by my parents around 50 years ago. Before the service it would not move and now it runs really well. I would like to find out more about re-winding armatures if you have any experience you could share, Many thanks, John D

[@bikerides]

Professionals use a 'comstick' on all sizes of commutator which is flat and will tend to remove rather than add scratches. Fine nail polish sticks work and can be used to clean wheels and pickups. A newby may see the vid and try to clean pickups with dremel. Great video though so I've subscribed to you.

[@milou7300a]

Thans'k, I got a motor 2335 steam, that I will do the clean up as You show, friendly Jacques

[@edmowl]

Super video. Extremely helpful and nicely explained

[@1506pinkers]

A really helpful video. Many thanks.

[@chambs123]

Hi Stefan....I have said this before & will say it here again. If my 'how to videos' help people have sucsess in restoring their locomotives which to most who are not particually technically/mechanically/electronically minded then that is all I could ask for! All your support & comments are gratefully appreciated. I'm doing pretty good with the e-cigarette but you still can't beat the real thing! All the best, John.

[@chambs123]

Hi Rob, all motors create a spark on the commutator...this is normal so no need to worry as I think that is what you are seeing! There is an old saying.....'if it isn't broke don't fix it!'. Thanks for your comment. Cheers, John.

[@TATICMOOR]

One thing I would add to the cleaning process, is to clean the magnet screw shoulder, for holding the motor brush spring for good contact of electrical flow.

[@chambs123]

Thanks John & I do agree...I always do this myself anyway along with the shoulder of the spring itself. Best, John.

[@chambs123]

No worries buddy & glad the vid was a help to you. Ta for the comment. Cheers, John.

[@jagerfaust2009]

Again an excellent presentation though an electric cigarette with whiskey simply wont do, maybe a prop cigar :-) Electric cigarettes are illegal here in oz but we need some vices for steady hands don't we. You really helped me (and others) with this easy to understand video. I take my hat off to you with the kindest gesture John, till next time thanks and cheers (Guinness) Stefan........

[@chambs123]

Thanks Brian for your kind comment. OK, there is no rocket science in the older locomotives' wiring. I'll try & do a video on this for you as soon as I can. Best regards, John.

[@chambs123]

Hello there, thanks for your question & the answer is simply yes....it does apply to this motor too. Regards, John.

[@chambs123]

Hi Darren, I have been asked loads of times about doing a vid on the Ringfield motor! As soon as one of my locos that uses them needs a full service I will video the job. Seasons greetings, John.

[@chambs123]

Hi buddy, I have been asked loads of times about doing a service vid on the Ringfild motor but just haven't got around to doing it yet! I promise I will do one as soon as I can so please just be patient on this one. Thanks for the comment. Kind regards, John.

[@JaeV2000]

My old hornby triang flying Scotsman heads a crevice but I don't have some of the tools to do it or though I think this video is a good way to cervice them

[@MrAJH1969]

Great video can you please do the same for the Ringfield. Got a poorly class 25 and don't really have any Ringfield experience. Just X04 from trains and Scalextric. I`m sure I can work it out but would be nice to see one stripped and serviced by someone else first. Thanks

[@chambs123]

Thanks again for your feedback Michael, kind regards, John.

[@chambs123]

Anyway, thanks again for your comments & views....anybody who looks at this video & reads these comments will have to make their own minds-up as to which information they will choose to be guided by. Cheers, John.

[@kennethljungberg642]

Thank you, verkar much. Best Regards

[@646klein]

can you explain why you change the magnet to a neo? and what effect it has on these motors ie more speed mot power full etc and your a legend your videos cover allmost everything thanks, calvin

[@chambs123]

I too have seen some locos with what you would expect to be an X04 but with only one oil pad, however, I've always been of the frame-of-mind that the motor(s) could have been changed previously & fitted with the said motor(s) being an X03.5....who knows?

[@chambs123]

No worries Ash....please wasn't required. Cheers, John.

[@chambs123]

I couldn't agree with you more! Cheers, John.

[@chambs123]

Thanks for your comments buddy & yes, I agree the X04 motor is 'bomb-proof' & if you can pick some up cheap it's well-worth having them. Cheers, John.

[@chambs123]

Hi Michael, thanks for your comments. Yes, I too have some of the can motors...nevertheless getting the old X04's etc back to life is no real big deal! Regards, John.

[@baltinhas2]

Hey .. GREAT video. I am servicing one like that, but i´m struggling with the brushes that have a separate carbon from the metal part and i am not getting a way to could solder them again together. Perhaps you know a way to do it!!

[@chambs123]

Hi Tony...simple answer.....just type in the search box on ebay 'triang brushes'. There are always some available out there! Hope this helps you? Seasons greetings, cheers, John.

[@chambs123]

Hi bud & thanks for your comment. I am very careful with the Dremel....very little pressure & it does a great job. I have never damaged a com doing it this way but...as you so rightly say...everyone to their own! Cheers, John.

[@thorntonmclaughlan7678]

Hi John I refer you back to the servicing of the xo4 motor where you advised me it might be an armature or magnet fault I replaced the magnet with a neo magnet with marvelous results Loco runs much smoother and never refuses to move off, many thanks. regards Thornton. incidental for some unknown reason I can't seem to be able to send you my Email address as requested.

[@chambs123]

Hi Paul. OK, there are always new brushes available on ebay for the XO3 motor etc. As for the problems causing your controller to cut-out.....do the full loco/motor service first & then if you still have problems please get back to me. Cheers, John.

[@chambs123]

Finally, I do agree that running any kind of motor with a weak magnet will cause coil-winding failure! I have found very few motors indeed with worn-out bearings! I will soon do the servicing of the EMU/Dock shunter type bogie/motor & I will include in the video how to check the coil windings.

[@NEZZA1967]

As for a dremmel I prefer a strip of fine wet/dry but each to their own .

[@Gordinio]

Hi John, Very informative video, I have acquired an old Triang B12 R150 loco but its missing some wiring, Any help would be greatly appreciated or any chance of a video on the subject of restoring old locos would be great. Regards Brian

[@stevenhollands464]

Hello John. Fascinating video and have learned much from this and others. Many years ago I recall being able to replace the small carbon pad located on the motor brushes, as they are just soft soldered, but sourcing the carbon cubes, or anything suitable is hard to do. I also have a large collection and the need to replace brushes beckons and at commercial rates is going to cost a bomb. Any thoughts on where one could source carbon cubes that would do, even if they are a bit oversize? Kind Regards Steve Hollands.

[@chambs123]

Hi Bob, thanks for your comment & of course that the video helped you. I have to say that some people have been very daunted at the fact I use the Dremel on the commutator....that is most certainly the reason for the 2 'thumbs down!'. Nevertehless, I cannot stress enough that the pressure I use with this is so very little! Because of the speed of the Dremel it polishes the commutator really well! You only have to look at all my videos to see how well all my locos run! Best regards, John.

[@charlie1872]

That was excellent and very well done. I sure learned a lot and feel a bit more confident in tackling htis. Have you done any videos on digitizing an old Tri-ang princess? I have a few of these and would like to know how to go about it. Many thanks

[@chambs123]

Hi Graeme...I will do some servicing videos on other type motors when I get the time but I am so busy at the moment in my workshop with electronic repairs! I think Will at intercity82 [ic82] is now back up-&-running again. All the best, John.

[@621on]

Lighter fuel will damage plastic, use an electrical cleaner available off the Internet .I use a table mounted vice to hold the motor. Never remove the magnet from the frames unless you intend replacing it with a neo type or you can remagnetise the motor, as you will loose motor power.. Neo magnets will give the motor more power.Highly recommended.

[@chambs123]

+Adrian Smith Hi Adrian & thanks for your comment. My replies: I've never yet had any plastic damage from using lighter petrol (not fuel) in all the years I've been on this planet! I find using my 'helping hands' is just as good (if not better) than a vice as it is quicker & you can change position/angles etc. I always re-magnetize the magnets & especially while they are in the pole pieces....this way you get the best results. Neo magnets are kind-of OK but they put far too much strain on the bearings....sometimes causing the motors to 'growl'! Highly not recommended. Thanks again, John.

[@SpottingWithSam]

Hmm cheers John! This helped me a lot :D Thanks for posting :D

[@chambs123]

Hi Graham....thanks for your nice comment & glad the vid helped you. I have about 62 vids running on KZbin. When you stumble across anyone's vid you should be able to link to the rest of their vids from links! If not....just type 'chambs123' in KZbin's search box & that will take you to all my videos. Kind regards, John.

[@chambs123]

Thank you for your kind comment. Glad the video was a help to you. Cheers, John.

[@chambs123]

Hi Buddy, thanks for your 2 comments & all points are noted. I will point out that in the video & the title I do state this is 'my way' of doing the job! It may not be to everybody's choice? However, I have never damaged a motor servicing them the way I do plus....as the Dremel is spining so fast & I don't put any pressure on the com....it actually polishes it & no scratches are visable....even under a magnifing glass! Cheers, John.

[@chambs123]

Thank you for your amusing comment....perfectly understood! Kind regards, John.

[@chambs123]

I have been in electronics all my life [my website is Champ Electronics, Nottingham] & this has included working on speakers & magnets etc. If you buy a new magnet wether it be Alnico or Neo...they haven't been in a loco at this point so this is no different to taking it out & replacing it! I don't pick motors up with a screwdriver as a test to their magnet's strenght....I use a very reliable magnetic field/strenght piece of test-equipment to determen how strong/good a maget is!

[@chambs123]

Hi buddy, I do intend to do a video on the servicing of a Ringfield motor in the not too distant future but I just haven't had time as yet. Kind regards, John.

[@kenmartin6457]

Hey John I have a motor that keeps pulling out at one end of the bogie fitting when you go to run it. I have checked with another but can not work out why this is happening. Apart from the end hole looks a little elongated. Have you come across this before rgds ken

[@pauli1968]

Fantastic video. I have a 1976 Flying Scotsman with a X.03 engine. But when I put the engine on the track it short circuits the controller straight away. I've taken the engine apart and looked at the brushes, etc. One of the brushes head fell off, so I've soldered it back on. Are these brushes still available for sale? Do you have any idea why the train is blowing my controller? Do you do services? Kindest regards Paul

[@graemeprowse953]

Thank you for taking the time and trouble to reply.Do you service other makes, and if so can you do a video comparing different makes and there qualities. I agree with what you said about the guy on IC 82 very informative, hope he gets going again soon. Regards, Graeme.

[@darrenjohnson1979]

very good video how do u clean a ring filled moter like the in the intercity125 . can u do a vid on it plz keep up the good work

[@thorntonmclaughlan7678]

Hi John Thornton here I have sorted many a problem because of your advise, what are your thoughts on coach lighting using a battery. led strip and a magnet wand.

[@mstaines]

John, great video as always. Can I ask what the benefit of the neo magnet replacement is please... ?

[@ichwohnt]

thank you so much for this.video i shall give my train the proper service she deserves so thank u again :)

[@davidanthonybatten9150]

Does an old Hornby Kneller Hall run better if i put a neo magnet replacement please? Right now she is reluctant to go on her own and rarly reverses?

[@SillyKuffar]

Hi Chambs, I wonder if you could help me ? I have been following your advice on servicing and have cleaned nad serviced the motor out of the Princes Elizabeth. Now, the wires which go to the brushes are all in place but I have one loose wire with a blob of solder on it, the solder is flat on one side. Now the wire was loose when I took the motor apart and I don't know where it goes. Is it an earth wire ? Where should it be re-soldered too ? Also I'm missing one of the brushes,

[@howardemmett3833]

Hi, Love your videos. Very informative. Have problems with screeching Hornby Ringfield motors. Any tips as I can find no obvious cause

[@CZ350tuner]

I presume that you have the 1962 Triang Railways "The First Ten Years" book which has all the servicing sheets for X.03., X.04. and XT.60. plus the Mark.I., Mark.II., Mark.III. and Mark.IV. power bogies. Also points, point motors, dummy bogies, etc. The original Zenith (X.01.) and detachable X.02. motors are close to later types but different. X.01. and X.02. have a disc commutator. Special tools, such as the worm extractor tool, is also shown. And they mention which oils to use. I use good old 3 in 1.

[@chambs123]

Hi Andy....thanks for the comment. Yes....I have it all on DVD. I also was aware of the differences between all the various motors but its always good to put the information on my channel for others to read/learn...so thanks for that. I have the worm extractor tool as well as quite a few other special tools like the rivit compressor etc. I too use a light machine oil. Kindest regards, John.

[@CZ350tuner]

chambs123 I replaced a few of mine with the Airfix 5 pole replacement back in the 1970's which gave better slower running. These are rare as rock horse manure to find these days. Also Hornby has an adapter cradle for fitting the Scalextric motor and I've a 0-4-0 "Polly" converted with this set up.

[@chambs123]

Andy Reid Hi yet again Andy. I have 23 of the Airfix 5 pole motors & have used them accordingly & as necessary. I wasn't however aware of the adaptor you refer too so....thank you for that information. My best regards, John.

[@CZ350tuner]

chambs123 It first appeared in the 1979 Somerset & Dorset version of the "Polly" / "Nellie" / "Connie" (actually a Southern Railways Class C14 departmental loco minus Walcherts valve gear). I have one with the Scalextric motor in a soft plastic cradle. I've used cradles from broken swap meet sourced wrecks to replace X.04. motors in a few Triang locos. Compared to the X.04. they are considerably more powerful and later on turned up in the GWR 101, Barclay 0-6-0 shunter, etc. but without the cradle adapter. I have a Triang 0-6-0 English Electric shunter (which in not the Class 08 but the earlier LMS inside framed prototype) running on a Scalextric motor. I had to change the brass axle pinion to the later plastic higher geared version but the tractive effort ability is considerably inproved. If I'd used the original low gearing (23:1) it would be too "twitchy" to shunt with. Very good as a replacement for older Triang express locos with the old sleeved wheel axles on tenders.

[@chambs123]

Andy Reid Well Andy you are a mound of information.....big thanks for adding this to my channel for all to see & learn from! My best regards, John.;

[@newsvintage]

Hi John great video I have just done this service (Complete with the scotch & ginger) on my Hornby 82004 that was a non runner the motor no runs great.I have another problem thought the axles are very sloppy in the chassis is there any sort of repair you have ever done. Regards Iain

[@chambs123]

Thanks Ash. Yes, I do get people asking me to do specific videos. I've been asked a good few times to do a vid on the Ringfield motor & also a vid on 'how to solder'. I will do them in time when I can. As regards the Lima motor....I have a good few Lima diesels & they are at the moment all running fine. I will however to a vid on one of these motors in the near future...when I need to service any of the Lima loco's. Cheers, John.

[@cartwheelceilidh194]

Enjoyed this video. What lube oil are you using? Thanks

[@stuartthegrant]

Nice lesson thanks for posting.

[@chambs123]

Thanks Stuart.....glad it helped....thanks for the comment. All the best, John.