How To Set Pressure Treated 4x4 Wood Posts In Concrete (VERY STRONG!)

[@erikbogart676]

I will use 8" #4 rebar, drill a 1/2 hole through the post 2" apart 1 going each way. If you are using a proper 12" hole the will leave the rebar 2" clearance on each side from the soil. It's called uplift protection and we have to include it on pole building construction. I use post to the ground as my handrail stanchions, so I always do it on my perimeter and stair case posts. To your other point about leaving the concrete down from finish grade, here we have freeze and thaw cycles. If you don't leave your concrete down 6" surface freeze can and will get under the flare at the top and raise the concrete up. I've seen it grab 6" concrete bollards and raise them 4" in a single season. I've never taken the time to slope the cap away from the post, but that is good work, I'm always happy to see someone who does something better than I do it, today I have gained another step at becoming the best. You had me by 1 for sure

[@zjedinite]

I’ve been doing this for YEARS! It just made common sense to me. I just use 1/2 rebar since I always have prices left over. I mass cut them at 4” I drill about 1” 1/2 deep using a 15/32 drill bit. Rebar goes in with a gentle tap of the hammer. I use this for ALL corner post and railings like this guy. I feel sorry for the poor sap that needs to remove my post. Strong post without Cialis! 🤣🤣🤣

[@morningthunder]

Great tip! When I set posts for decks or stair railings, I take a 3/8” auger bit and drill holes at roughly 45 degrees and drive 3/8” rebar through the posts into the ground surrounding the post. If you do this on two sides, you can plumb the post easily before pouring concrete and the concrete, when poured, surrounds the rebar, but generally the rebar extends through the concrete into the earth. I walked away from many jobs knowing that the work was solid and secured.

[@birdog874555]

For an extra heavy duty post (for a gate or handrail), use galvanized lag bolts and dig the base of the hole wider than the top. Frost heave won't push it up, and the lag bolts lock it down. You can also give the part of the post that will be below grade a coating of blackjack and allow it to dry before sinking them.

[@slearl]

Good tip. However, I'm not really looking to buy a 5 gallon jug of Blackjack; do you think FlexSeal would work just as good?

[@supremelawfirm]

Asphalt emulsion is usually pretty cheap at a building supply store. Buy a cheap paint brush and just paint it onto the lower portion of each post that contacts concrete or soil below grade. You don't need to use a full gallon, unless you're setting lots of posts; and, the lid can be re-used, to save the left-over emulsion for another day. Wood really should not remain in direct contact with concrete, because concrete "weeps"; and, the chemicals in normal concrete are corrosive to natural wood, over a long period of time. Before I knew better, I mixed up a batch of concrete by myself, and then I knelt in it: I ended up with second-degree burns on my knees! The ER doctor prescribed "silvadene" cream, which saved the day; everything else I had tried did nothing to heal those burns. Remember, wood was a living organism before it was harvested. Another really good practice, if you have the time and money, is to set the bottom of each post in about 2 inches of Cuprinol, over night. An empty gallon paint can is good for this step. Very often, standard pressure treatments do not actually reach the core of each post. But, since wood loves to "wick", overnight each post will wick the Cuprinol into its core, giving each post's portion below grade that much more protection. Hope this helps!

[@caltch]

I wonder why the guy above you in the comments made pretty much the exact same comment you did.

[@supremelawfirm]

@@caltch I don't know what "Blackjack" is. A card game, maybe? LOL :) Can you point us to a product page, please? Does it come in quantities smaller than 5 gallons? Sometimes these building suppliers attach a fancy name to a product, so they can charge more. When I have shopped for "asphalt emulsion" in the past, building supply stores always knew exactly what I meant.

[@supremelawfirm]

found "Black Jack" at Lowes e.g. "Formula is urethane enhanced " the asphalt emulsion I have used in the past did not have any fancy ingredients: the tar component is simply suspended in a water base which evaporates as it dries on contact with any common surface. The water base helps the emulsion penetrate wood fibers before it dries completely. I doubt that urethane is worth the extra cost, if the application is fence posts below grade. Other applications, I wouldn't know. Thanks!

[@plainolamerican1557]

I enjoy your videos young man. Just a hint about those levels, the yellow plastic tabs in the center are for your rubber band, slip knot one on one side and it will stay on. all you have to do is pull it around your post and hook it on the other tab.

[@sticknstonesbrkbones]

I had one of those post levels and over the years it disappeared. Now im doing a job and bought a new one, I almost lost that damn rubber band twice, why I haven't come up with this simple solution on my own is beyond me lol good tip. PRO TIP! thanks for post

[@ianphillips5624]

Thanks I would’ve never realized that myself

[@sergeykazantsev1]

Or small bungee cord with small hooks

[@grinpick]

Good advice. Also I always try to stand the post up off the ground at the bottom with a piece of concrete or stone which is smaller than the bottom of the post. (A doby block works well for a 6x6.) This results in the concrete flowing under the post. Without this step the wood post is resting directly on dirt, which does not support it as well as the concrete would. This is more significant when the post is going to support a heavy vertical load and yes, granted, this step would be less important when you're using screws to lock the post to the concrete, as you suggest. Might seem like overkill, but if you're hoping for that post to be solid for 25-30 years it could make the difference. And it costs very little extra in time or money.

[@Power5]

I throw gravel, if I have some, or a couple handfulls of dry mix into the bottom. Biggest reason is to block the bottom of the post from becoming a straw and sucking moisture into the post. Over a long enough time line that will allow the post to suck up enough water to rot it.

[@GirthosaurusRex]

@@pete7413 just stain your fence every year. Then if for whatever reason you have a post rot just replace the post and reattach the fence. Post $7 concrete $3

[@strobed22]

@@GirthosaurusRex Everyone's situation is different. Very weird to give such a broad statement.

[@GirthosaurusRex]

@@strobed22 I have a fence company so I do know a little about it

[@GirthosaurusRex]

@@strobed22 you want to set your post with just a little less than a 60lb. more stuff you do to keep it in the harder it is to pull out and replace

[@johnnycasady6775]

No matter how smart I think I am, somebody comes along with a simple idea that blows me away.

[@dcr00k]

KZbin and paint make you the Carpenter you ain’t.

[@Romans6.1-2]

😉 quit thinking you’re smart.

[@Jaydayallday]

Nice trick. Thinking that even would help fence post that is holding gate.

[@lewishall24]

Nice tip, I like to have a layer of gravel in the bottom of the hole and poly/paint just the bottom of the post, gives a capiliary break to stop the wood still pulling water upwards like its still part of a tree

[@scat4me]

Before adding the screws and placing the new post in the hole apply a coat of roofing cement on the flour sides of the post to about 2 inches above grade. That along with the rocks for drainage would protect the post from rotting.

[@garypetrol]

Yup...I agree..been doing that for years and works great...cheap and easy...

[@sticknstonesbrkbones]

cant argue that. it is cheap and it is easy. and you wont have to go back until your teaching you grandkids how to do stuff lol

[@xisotopex]

@@sticknstonesbrkbones planned obsolescence is part of my business plan

[@johnkirkwood3445]

Thank you Ethan. Just getting ready to set a couple “F” shaped kayak racks I made with with 4 x 4 support posts. I was concerned because of the stress the kayaks will create on the post settings and possibility of eventual slanting. This is an awesome idea. Thank you!

[@scottiver]

Post level only works on short straight posts. Most posts are NOT perfectly straight. Using a tiny 8" long level will not work for longer posts (fence posts) you need at least a 4ft long level to bridge any deviations or curves in the post. (40 yrs experience)

[@blakerobertson9779]

Thanks! That's a great idea but why did you install the screws at that angle. Wouldn't they work the same angled down instead of up? That way, when the wood shrinks and water finds it's way between the wood and concrete it would be less apt to seep into the holes created by the screws, helping the pole last longer.

[@normferguson2769]

I had to remove a 4x4 post that the original installer had put anchoring screws into 40 years earlier. It took chains and a car jack to pull it out of the compacted dirt and most of an afternoon. I said a few choice words about that concept.

[@billhamilton7524]

an afternoon on one post ??,,why not just dig around it

[@johndeggendorf7826]

...so, I guess it works!

[@eddieb35]

40 years LMAO

[@danesstang9307]

then you're a weakling

[@nigelclark7360]

Because the right type of wood was used.

[@matthewkubik3874]

Used to tear out a lot of fence, and the post that were next to impossible to get out were the corner post that the old timers took worn old cultivator sweeps and nailed on upside down to the below grade portion of the post. They acted just like barbs on a fish hook! Those post refused to come out of the ground!

[@tba776]

Great idea. Will employ this idea for the two 4x4 posts going in the ground for hammock support.

[@alanlurie8675]

Yeah, I’ve done that too. All wood rots over time. I began doing post in chain link fence metal post and the dressing them up via through bolting pressure treated wood to make them look like wood. It will be strong as hell and last forever.

[@ryans.8294]

I've used that trick for years. Really works.

[@rogerenscore653]

Neat tip, Ethan! My daughter told me to check out your channel and I've already learned a couple of helpful things. I'll be watching for more.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thanks Roger! I’m glad it’s been helpful. I’ll be posting more soon!

[@virtuallyrealistic]

The only caution I would add is that when the concrete top around the post falls short of the soil line there is a risk of dry rot at the soil line. Now it does that years to happen probably about 10 years unless there is a sprinkler system that regularly soaks the posts dirt contact line, then its much sooner. It is not as pretty to mound the concrete to ensure water runs away from the exposed wood. I only have 30 years experience with these. I maintained a few hundreds ft ‘80’s era fence and a handrail around a pool stair way. I was really surprised how quickly the 4X4 treated posts were rotting at ground level so I switched to galvanized steel sign post supports ( buried in the concrete) bolted to the 4X4’s before I understood the problem. The county roadway guardrails here are all installed with mounded concrete around the base and last decades.

[@BeaconRI]

this is awesome. i'm using a post to attach a retractable hose and this will definitely help over time. i may do it on all 4 sides.

[@robprice6573]

A cool trick, I am putting in a mailbox, will use this technique on the post on all for sides

[@darylhill9400]

Personally I take the extra time to put roof tar on the post that goes underground and a little Gravel in the bottom! But the screws are a good idea, thanks.

[@mrchulondon]

Yeah I've done that in the recent past too. Only problem is that the part of the post that's above ground gathers water which drains and gets trapped because it can't flow through the tar. This leads to rotting.

[@jarrodderr]

Dude I’m so glad I found this channel. 👍👍👍

[@johnthree1611]

I used a standoff post base recently for a post that I set for a handrail. It basically cements the metal piece that screws into the post into the ground, and keeps the post above ground, so it won't rott underneath the ground.

[@rico1319]

I’ve set a lot of posts in my time and never done it like that. That’s a damn good idea! Thank you keep up the good work!! 👍👍👍😎🇨🇱

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thank you Rico!

[@lanajantz2240]

@@TheHonestCarpenter I'm putting in ground a 3'x 2' cross made of cedar; cedar is cut into 2"x 4". I would like to use this technique. I am Thinking 1 screw on each 2" side and 2 on each side of the 4" straddling the rebar in the bottom. Bar is sticking out of the bottom about 4" drilled about 4" into wood. I Got elected to apply Spar Urethane coating on it and put it in concrete, in ground. I do not know what I'm doing. Should I put small grade rock for rebar? Or not? The hole is 8" to 10" deep.

[@mle1ravens1]

​@@lanajantz2240...damn just straight up tried to snipe Rico's comment 😂 why not ask on the regular comment thread?

[@raywalsh8807]

Thanks set tons of post and never thought of this.

[@eolden7749]

Once built a fence out of standard 4 x4s. Treated the posts with Thompsons water seal, stuck the posts in a plastic grocery bag, secured it with tape. Put it in the ground, poured concrete around them. Over ten years later still OK. (Treated is better if not on a budget. Of course the screws or nails will help.

[@Jessicaran]

The screws to grab....fn GENIUS! THANK YOU!

[@parallelburrito]

Everyone seems to have an opinion on this but I always wrap my post with flashing where they exit the ground. This keeps the microbes in the soil from attacking the wood. Most don't understand that pressure treating is done to discourage the microbes but only last so long. You'll see a lot of wood utility poles installed this way. Water alone does not rot wood so it's not really the issue that people make it out to be when setting post.

[@markdoblekar2093]

Excellent tip. I won't have thought of this, but will use this when I set my mailbox post.

[@doconnor1354]

Great idea, Ethan. I need to replace a post that pull from the cinder block (step) wall that secured my handrail. I will try this when attaching the new railing and adding the footing. Thanks.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thanks Dennis! That’s exactly the reason I like to use this method with brick steps in particular. Contractors like the appearance of rail posts notched and anchored to the steps. But inevitably it breaks out the brickwork down there. This way is far more secure and helps trap that brickwork in place. Good luck with the project!

[@troylee3179]

Good idea, I dig out the bottom bigger than the top, soak the bottom with oil and tar and drive landscaping spikes in the post just as he did. I had to remove some two years ago and they looked like the day I set them. Zero decay fifteen years later. They call me Overkill lol

[@mseifried5]

Great tips. I always mix concrete thoroughly before pouring in the hole. That way it can start curing immediately. I don't understand why you would want to wait for rain to set your post. Did you all know; concrete is in the plastics family?

[@TokyoCraftsman]

Great tip. I've done something similar with steel post, drilling a 1/4" hole through the post, below grade, and running a 1' length of threaded rod with a couple of nuts to hold it in place, works great. One thing that I've had great success with a wooden post in the ground situation is to seal the bottom of the post. Here in Japan, we have a product that comes in a can that is a tar material, that you can spread on the bottom of the post to stop it from sucking up water. Yes PT wood will outlast regular wood, but when you seal the bottom of the post in the ground, it will take a VERY long time to rot. I liked and subscribed. Cheers from Tokyo!

[@IvanMatasic]

Could you please tell me what its called, i would like to find the alternative in my country

[@slingshoter8783]

@@IvanMatasic It is roofing tar i bet

[@georgiaguardian4696]

GREAT tips! Our fence has been blower away few months ago and it’s been fixed by a cheap fix that won’t last.,when we want to replace it we will use these tips!

[@g.e.boroush5176]

I built a fence years ago and used cedar posts which is what I was told to use. Over time, they all rotted at the ground level. For a temporary fix I pounded metal fence post supports that wrap around the post to hold them and the fence up. So I am now wondering what to do when putting in new posts . . . what if they rot again? How do you get the post out?

[@cerealkiller4248]

I'm doing something similar at present, I'll nick the screw tree idea thanks, but I painted bitumen on the bottom of my posts as an added protection against rot.

[@earlyriser8998]

Do you think bitumen will improve the concrete/post bond? Paint bitument then add the screws and you will have a perfect combination, I think.

[@iackin0]

52 years old and learn something new. Ty sir

[@richlewis4740]

Thanks for the video. I actually knew about the screw/nail "tree" to lock the post in, and have done that successfully with a climbing/swing structure in the past. The real find here was learning about that "post level." I ordered one right away.

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

Thanks for watching, Rich! Man, that thing is a game changer, especially for anyone who works alone :)

[@scottiver]

Post level only works on short straight posts. Most posts are NOT perfectly straight. Using a tiny 8" long level will not work for longer posts (fence posts) you need at least a 4ft long level to bridge any deviations or curve in the post. (40 yrs experience)

[@terrycole127]

Rich Lewis =The post level is like a line level, can be very inaccurate. Need at least a four foot or longer level to go from bottom to top of vertical column. Clamp three quarter boards on the top and bottom of column and put your level against these boards. Most treated posts are not straight, this will give you a true plumb.

[@Seighme]

Since as concrete dries, being a rock sponge, it sucks the moisture out of your 4x4, have you considered wrapping the post in roofing felt/tar paper to preserve the post? Drive your screws after wrapping the post, then cut the paper at the concrete line. -Maybe tack it in place first. Try driving your screws straight in about an inch, then backing them out and driving them again at that angle you want-easier and faster then moving then by hand, plus no risk of bending the screws. Your screws act as rebar, and I love the idea, thanks!

[@lorihannah5499]

I suggest sealing the post before burying into mixed concrete...the "Post" level is only plumbing 6 " of the post where it is attached. I put mixed concrete at bottom of hole, wrap in water proof tape or seal 2" above where concrete is going, then put ceramic coated or PT grade small lags in the post in several areas...post will not rot. Mix concrete properly, brace post properly plumb, then pour in concrete. Let set for 36 hrs or if using fast setting, 2hrs, and post can't be loosened or knocked over. Post will not rot either. Pt is for above ground contact only

[@6Ginge]

Great idea. Don’t wiggle a post while the concrete is setting it will create a gap for water and debris if the concrete has dried enough that it won’t slump back.

[@YSLRD]

Neat! I've been doing this for years. I feel so validated. Definitely looking for that corner level.

[@plk5520]

Post level. Commonly available at the most well known big box store. The one whose initials are the same as High Definition.

[@usshuntly]

Honest question, I've been told not to insert pressure-treated wood in concrete because the wood will eventually rot. I saw somewhere where they used post anchors in the concrete and I was looking for videos on that when I came across this video and since I trust the Honest Carpenter now I'm not sure what to do. I live in upstate new york if that makes a difference. What gives?

[@whathandleUtalkabt]

What a savior. Thanks Ethan..great channel.

[@essjay9836]

Great tip and I'm proud to say it's one I thought of all by myself ... but the one that got me was the elastic band around the corner level ... now why the eff didn't I think of that

[@annettesurfer]

I tried the online design @ Menards for a loafing shed and the diagram showed treated 2x4's on all four surfaces of the embedded posts. I've read long ago that concrete shouldn't even be used for posts since it develops gaps at the top and doesn't allow water to drain away from the wood. Also I understand it's the microbes in soil that eats away at the wood so I just use gravel at the bottom for drainage and fill around the post with a combination of stone screenings with something called a county mix packed tightly...which resembles concrete. Of course that was for my privacy fence (400' sunk to the 42" frost line but I went down 48" for the gravel base) so I'm not sure about doing that with a structure, which in that case I'd prefer anchoring a treated post to a concrete filled Sonotube, but that's just my opinion.

[@housemachine509]

Is it still sturdy ? By chance are you in Mn with those requirements ?

[@kbeasleyconstruction]

Great idea. Been a carpenter for 34 years and have seen alot of wobbly post at steps. That post will shrink when it dries out and will leave a 1/4" gap. Seen some with no concrete and they definitely will get loose.

[@paulsullivan445]

I have been using this method for a long time except I use big sturdy galvanised nails and use 6 - 8 per side at different angles. Good tip of making hole bigger at bottom, pitch also a good idea. Stand post onto plastic (tarp off-cut) prevents moisture moving up inside post from below.

[@mle1ravens1]

What about the moisture trying to escape the wood down low? It seems like it would just sit in it's own puddle at that point...wouldn't something like pea-gravel be a better idea?

[@bmfitzgerald3]

Do you guys use "post sleeves" to prevent rot before setting in concrete?

[@peterholmes2089]

Great idea, but perhaps angle the screws downwards to help prevent directing water into the wood?

[@greenpumpkin6650]

My dad used to drive 16 penny galvanized nails in posts like this. He was an old school carpenter.

[@rsmith7292]

Great video! Thanks --My next project happens to be two posts for a summer shade!

[@ussweeneyd]

Another trick is to round the sharp edge of the post that is in the concrete. I use a block plane or spoke shave to just take the points. off. This stops the concrete stress cracking on the corners.

[@JohnvanGurp]

Hey that’s a great tip!

[@lightintheworld1111]

This is such a creative idea and I bet it works like magic. I’m going to use this technique when I lay my posts out. Thank you so much❤️

[@blackhouse7646]

Sorry for the off the wall question. I am putting some shade sail with some 4x4. How can i put them down with a 10degree angle?

[@Mountainlover1111]

I LOVE it when my ideas are validated!!!!!!!

[@tyronekim3506]

Thanks for the tip. I learned something new today. How many years do you think the post in the concrete is going to last? I'm wondering if part of the post should be sealed with paint or other substance before pouring the concrete. Thanks again. Stay safe and healthy.

[@DiscoFang]

Pressure treated pine treated to the appropriate grade for exterior in-ground situations will last 50+ years. Untreated pine can be failing in less than 2 years

[@tyronekim3506]

@@DiscoFang Thanks for the information. Stay safe and in good health. Good luck.

[@SuperAngelles]

That's really good advice. I do occasionally Handy Man work and fencing repairs I get a lot of request to do. This I will try. Thank you.

[@skinpricker]

Yep and you can raise your fee for this a bit more without any complaints just by giving customers a 30 year warranty on each post you set.. Take a large chisel and lock into a vise with chisel end out. Use a cutting wheel and put notchs in the end of it.. after your post is cut to size and you've drawn your ground level line, tap that punch into each post slightly above the ground line giving it your unique mark/stamp and face that stamp in the same direction as all other stamped posts you set on that job site. This will ensure you the you or your company did indeed set the post if there's any issues, and each post can be easily and quickly checked if the stamps are all on the same side.

[@rosario5972]

awesome, I'm building a lean to green house and need to set the posts. I like this trick

[@Ainsleet]

This will be my first time. I will be placing 10 footers. I am wondering how I keep the post straight while waiting for the concrete to set?

[@jimm3370]

Wow. Great minds think alike! LOL 6 years ago I put up a fence on my property and thought that putting something in the posts to strengthen it's anchoring to the concrete would be a good idea. I used bigger screws- 1/4" x 5 b/c I'm...y'know...a talented amateur. Six years later... we've had some pretty damn windy days, blowing trees down and a couple of my neighbors had their fences blow over. But my waaay overbuilt fence (3-4' under grade: 7' high) and solid panels is as solid today as the day I put it in.

[@greglee1465]

Why are the most simple things so brilliant? Thank you. My post have been running on me for years.

[@GregJGreen]

Never thought of doing this, thanks for the tip. 👍

[@04tommac]

I'm going to steal idea this fair and square. Ha ha. Thanks for the tip!

[@jjackson4829]

Great idea, thanks! Would work even better using some stainless steel lag screws. The extra thickness of those would be all that much stronger, and they wouldn't rust out over time.

[@aaronmackay6123]

2 bucks a lag screw.

[@nigelclark7360]

Yes of course

[@samueladams584]

Great tip.. I need to get some post installed soon and planned to try it myself.. this looks like a good idea if I use this method

[@2-old-Forthischet]

I used a similar method when I bought my first house in 1974 when making a fence on a slope. I used lag bolts. It seemed to be just common sense.

[@motoz30]

yep. common sense seems to be going the way of the dodo these days. why think when everything can be spoon-fed? I wonder how people learned anything pre-youtube...

[@2-old-Forthischet]

@@motoz30 Reading books.

[@carollshelby500]

For railings. What is the 4x4 cut at? 45 degrees?

[@Here-2-Learn]

If you put mastic around the posts and the screws will it make the post loose? I’ve always thought of putting mastic around the post to help keep from rotting eventually

[@billastell3753]

I have been setting posts for every purpose for many years. The best thing you can do is NOT use concrete. It rots the wood and as you said here the post will shrink and be loose in the concrete block. Put the post in 4 feet deep. Use wood treated for UNDERGROUND use. Not simply pressure treated wood. Pressure treated is for above ground usage.

[@TheJohnson861]

So what do you use

[@billastell3753]

@@TheJohnson861 Just like my post said. I use pressure treated posts for underground use. NO CONCRETE! Just backfill with native soil. Using concrete is un-necessary. Put the post in deep. The only thing concrete does is cause the next guy, who has to replace the rotted post, a pain in the butt. You can't bore a hole where it sits without an excavator to dig the lump out.

[@camerakid76]

Food for thought; The trick is certainly better than nothing but the shear strength with screws is much less than with nails. Also you create a bowl for water for your post to rot in with the concrete. Gravel below the post will help water seep down and out. Bring the concrete above grade and slope it away from the post when finishing it off. Your concept is proven though, just some things to think about if you really want it to last.

[@TheJiminiflix]

What about an application of tar sealer on the timber before you concrete it?

[@throwachair]

miniature rebar, very good, nice video

[@gordonwaldner9792]

Putting a couple inches of crushed rock in the hole will keep the post dry and rot free. Check your building code for what is allowed for a hand rail. Many will not allow a 2x4 because it is to wide for many people grasp. I do like the screw tip. I acts like rebar.

[@afniemann]

Great idea!! Similar to a Nelson stud on embed plates. Could use HD galvanized lag screws w a fender washer to increase pull out resistance.

[@takeniteasyfriend]

Great tip. Thanks! As a corollary, I’m thinking lag screws for tall 6x6s. Rebar for posts. 👍

[@roryd2339]

great idea i would also add waterproof paint to part of the post inground, ty

[@brianwiseman9518]

This just makes so much sense

[@vinylsoup]

good video, I used to drive gal. 16's commons in side leave maybe inch or so hanging out, no real need to angle , concrete will grab and not let go, this I did before there were deck screws

[@RiotShieldDemon]

How long is that post and how deep was it buried? Im trying to make a pull up bar that sticks 8 ft above grojnd but only have 10 ft 4x4 , and am wondering if that screw trick will make it sturdy enough. I read somewhere that 1/3 of the post length should be underground. Should i worry about this

[@TheHonestCarpenter]

The 1/3 rule is generally right cramos. I’d probably go with 12’ 4x6s for that application. There’s a chance you may even need some diagonal supports. Pull-ups actually generate a lot of rocking force

[@frankdavidson9675]

i tryed a diff. method about 30 yrs ago i poured concrete in the hole several inches stood a 24in rebar in the concrete center let it dry now bore a hole about 12- 14 inches into bottom of post stand post on rebar fill hole with concrete to gd level plumb let dry i moved about 25 yrs later had no problems with it this was tall post for deck --------- i did my vinyard 4x4 posts just left off rebar works graet.

[@bambamnj]

This is a nice idea. I would suggest maybe using galvanized lag screws instead of the small exterior screws. I would also recommend putting the screws in at a slightly upward angle (meaning when you stand the post up the screw heads will be pointing down. This will help prevent any water from seeping into the 4x4.

[@lorihannah5499]

Can't use galvanized in today's PT post or wood period. Chemical reaction will deteriorate the screw. PT grade screws- ceramic coated

[@leelunk8235]

I MUST SAY, I USE A BAG OF LIQUID FOAM 1ST IN A 3 FOOT HOLE, I MAKE SURE IT'S BALANCED, I COVER ABOUT 2 FEET WITH THE FOAM, THE REST I USE QUICK CEMENT TO THE TOP. POST IS ALWAYS ROCK HARD, NO NEED FOR SCREWS, BUT I'LL TRY IT NEXT TIME WITH SOME SCREWS

[@jonmatthews4254]

I would add paint some bitumen based product around the wood 4 inches above ground level and below and make sure there is concrete underneath it. You don't want to go to all that trouble and have the post rot through. I use waterproof PVA in the concrete ti help prevent rot further.

[@howardsternisbatman]

To those saying don't sink posts in to concrete. I built a fence in 1996 and did that. It's still standing no issues.

[@lorihannah5499]

The wood was treated different then

[@1982nsu]

@@lorihannah5499 Spot on Lori. Besides, the treatment in PT lumber is for insects and ground contact. A wooden post is best placed over a bed of crushed stone for drainage and then packed with soil.

[@nigelclark7360]

Depends on what type of wood you use, cedar or Redwood is good lasts and lasts .

[@gary24752]

The concrete will trap water causing decay in the post irregardless of being pressure treated and sinking screws into it will just speed it up as the pressure treatment does not always penetrate the full depth. The post also should have been set on gravel to keep the bottom from rotting. Should have coated the base of the post with asphalt and wrapped it with 30 lb. felt to give it a drainage plane.

[@rogerpullin8997]

My dad taught me that 40 years ago, only we used nails, remember nails, driven by a hammer, you recharged hammer every night for eight hours

[@Zwt256]

That’s a great memory

[@DocFeelGood4]

Cool. Good for you.

[@truthalonetriumphs6572]

You mean "Recharged hammerer for 8 hours"

[@DrMentalChaos]

Had the 22oz volt rechargeable hammer lol

[@curtisyastic4130]

FUGGEN LIBS WITH THEY COMMIE NAIL GUMS WE HADDALAYERDOWN UPHILL BOTH WAYS HOSS MY HOMO GRABSON GOTTA TOHATSU NAILER PIT ONE THRU HOS HAWG HAHA GOBLESSEM THO HE A CRANKHEDD POST

[@wrongfullyaccused7139]

I employed a similar method to [prevent a post from ever moving. Except instead of screws I bored holes in the post and installed J bolts perpendicular to each other. I installed nuts to lock them still. Since the concrete set it has never moved.

[@jonathonlyles3349]

Wow that is a big brain move right there great tip I’m going to do this at work and blow some ppls mind I’ll mention you thx ❤the show

[@beehead5661]

In my area there are available posts that have been core drilled out on one end and galvanized pipe inserted and bolted into place. Only galvanized pipe set in concrete. Wood never touched by dirt. No worry about rot or wood shrinkage gap

[@alexsoto1212]

Would this help with setting post above frost line, or should I still set blow it?

[@Buzz_Kill71]

Just found your channel and mid-binge....I like it, a lot.👍

[@birther1968]

two suggestions. put a half of a brick on the bottom. and set the post on the brick and pour the concrete around the post so the post has no contact with the dirt. 2nd bring the concrete up and above the dirt line.

[@狼-n7s]

Wonderful. Never thought about that before. Thanks mate.

[@mikeycrabtree123]

Every single post I have ever encountered that was set in concrete was rotten. I have never once encountered one set in concrete that wasn't. I was always taught to dig your post hole 12" deeper than you want to set your post & backfill it with course gravel, then hard pack your backfilled earth around the post. Is there something that I am missing here?

[@steveo782812]

I always assumed it was because people bury the concrete under the ground. I never understood that. Usually where they rot is at the top of the concrete. They just snap off. In addition if you ever try to remove old fence posts that usually where they broke for me. I assume that is because dirt is in constant contact with the wood post and microbes are working away at the wood in addition to moisture. Wet soil always in contact with the wood if bury the top of the concrete. He did it here too at the end of the video. I mound my concrete above ground in addition to adding gravel to the bottom to allow drainage.

[@personalfunfest]

every place is different... out here they don't rot in concrete (SoCal)

[@mikeycrabtree123]

@@personalfunfest, I live in south central Kentucky. A fair amount of rain, and a whole shitload of red clay soil.

[@personalfunfest]

@@mikeycrabtree123 ya.. that'll do it... we're in the Mojave desert so wood comes out of the ground the same way it went in 100 years later..lol... rubber dryrot is the issue here lolz

[@douglaspierce7031]

use stone dust, sometimes called crusher wash instead of concrete. Pack it tight, holds like concrete but, allows water to drain

[@CrashboatAl]

Great ! Good to know Ethan. Thank you.

[@natehall8730]

I've seen so many rotten posts buried in concrete. Best to do is set and level concrete a day or two ahead of time, and then use steel standoffs to keep everything above ground.

[@gregorywarnick1315]

Are you supposed to backfill the last couple of inches to ground level with dirt or are you supposed to make the concrete come out of the ground an inch or so? I've seen different opinions on this. Obviously filling in the top part would be nice so that grass can grow and hide the concrete, but at the cost of potential wood rot is it worth it?