How To Set up Dirt Bike Suspension Compression and Rebound

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Suspension set up is often seen as a daunting task for many riders because it seems like there are so many different aspects and variables involved in a correctly set up suspension. In this video we go over the terms you'll hear in relation to suspension, and then we'll give you some tips on getting your bike adjusted and ready for anything you throw at it.
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[@rmatvmc]

Invest in the best and achieve outstanding results with our top-rated products and durable tools, all just a click away. www.rockymountainatvmc.com/?

[@behindbarstv4340]

If you never know what wrong feels like you'll never know what right feels like. I recommend starting with everything in the middle then do a short ride. Then turn your compression all the way out (soft) and do a short ride. Then turn your compression all the way in (hard) and do a short ride. Once you are done with compression, set it back in the middle and do the same with rebound. Now you'll start to have a better feel for what each adjustment does and what too stiff, too soft, too much rebound and too little rebound feels like. Now set everything back to the middle and use your new found understanding to make small corrections to tweak the suspension to your liking.

[@rmatvmc]

Thank you for the input!

[@kingcrumpet]

Nice I'm going to try this thanks.

[@GaryPiazza]

Do this every time. It's the best way.

[@doubleclutchinjammingears3391]

This is absolutely gold advice. Thanks man.

[@iandaniel4633]

Great idea

[@mk3vr611]

This helped me a lot!!! Thank you. Also I raced my first race at this exact track. Crashed and finished last but I finished the race it was 1994ish

[@EarthSurferUSA]

I did about 50-60 MX races around and before that time in 1994. I came close, but I never finished last. David Bailey finished last in his first race, so I like to say I used to be better than David Bailey. :)

[@codycrankshaw7784]

Can you help me understand height? I have a 22 yz250fx and I feel like the bike is a little too tall for me and I’m not sure how to adjust the height comfortably

[@ashwinramadasan2964]

does body weight matters in compression and rebound? how ll u handle such cases?

[@rmatvmc]

Yes it does! It matters because you need to make sure you have the right spring rates or air pressure if you have an air fork. If two riders at different weights, say 40lbs difference, got on the same bike, they would feel completely different things with the suspension. If your springs are too soft, you try to make up for it by going stiffer and stiffer with your clickers, but then you start to lose comfort and bump absorption. If they're too stiff, you might be able to get comfort initially, but then it can feel harsh as you get too low. Everything I talked about in this video is secondary to being in the ball park for spring rates front and rear. - Chase

[@ashwinramadasan2964]

thanks for your valuable reply.. bro.. As an emerging motocross rider will ask more doubts on your other videos too..@@rmatvmc

[@danielcheng5070]

Awesome video! Helps a lot

[@rmatvmc]

Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!

[@magicaltrip89]

@rockymountain I was hoping you can give me some pointers on suspension. Im new to riding and I have ben having issues with my bike being too tall. I ended getting a performance lowering link and dropped the sag on my bike to make it more manageable to ride "reach the ground". I just got back from a ride and I noticed going up hills and cornering my bike does not feel like its responding in the front. This cause me to crash a few times. Any help would be appreciated.

[@rmatvmc]

How much did you lower the sag? There is only so much you can do to make a bike feel lower without messing up the balance and losing performance. If you added too much sag, then the front end might not have enough weight and not feel planted.- Chase

[@magicaltrip89]

@@rmatvmc Hi Chase, when I checked the sag from the dealership it was at 115 and I could barely get my boots on the ground. Reading more I see that the sag is supposed to be at 110 max but with this set up I almost fall everytime i need to stop my bike. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. The enduro series was dope by the way.

[@rmatvmc]

@@magicaltrip89 Honestly, I wouldn't go over 110. That is already a lot of sag. Not being able to touch the ground is something you just have to deal with. Look at Alex Martin. He's a top level 250 rider and can't even come close to getting his feet on the ground. - Chase

[@COASTALSgg]

so i should just hire a factory mechanic for a bit eh?

[@rmatvmc]

wouldn't that be nice!

[@xcvsdxvsx]

"its actually really simple" proceeds to deliver a doctoral thesis...

[@Branden13]

Yeah, I need this explained to me like I am five years old. I am drowning in a sea of vocabulary and complex examples about what certain riders may or may not do.

[@youknowit6752]

Homosexual communist

[@jakebriscoe]

im crying laughing this is so true lmao

[@cane2253]

If anyone wants to learn about Jesus Christ reply

[@hallacki]

13min video isn’t needed LOL

[@SenorDennis]

Suspension tuning is about 10x more confusing than an engine rebuild.

[@rmatvmc]

It can be! But start with the basics.

[@skynjaydensdaddy]

Building engines is simple

[@EarthSurferUSA]

Naw, just get stiffer springs with very little spring preload, light on the compression, (the heaver spring will hold the bike up), and heavy on the rebound, (to control the stiffer spring). That will make the suspension supple on the small bumps, and still be able to take hard hits.

[@nuthintoprove]

@@thepatternforms859 Damping slows the movement, it's velocity sensitive not position sensitive. Think of trying to run in waist high water or the damper on an air conditioner vent. Open is no damping, closed is full damping. Don't ever say dampening unless you are getting something wet. Every fork or shock without any damping would bottom out super easy even with the super stiff springs. True damping is the valve stack, the clickers are a small bypass that changes how much force it takes to open the valve stack initially. If your valving is way off, clickers will not help. Springs are position sensitive, damping is velocity sensitive and friction is bad. These are the basics but don't think suspension as some dark art where only a few know what's going on. The problem is misinformation is propagated by people that don't know what they are talking about, creating a bunch of myths. Like not enough rebound damping makes the bike kick. I hope that helps. You asked an honest question.

[@dadthelad]

@@thepatternforms859 When he says to soften or stiffen the compression or rebound, he means the compression damping or rebound damping. Suspension works by having a spring, and then an oil damping system to slow down how fast the spring compresses and rebounds, and to stop the spring just bouncing back and forth over and over. Minor suspension tuning is done by tweaking the damping rates (compression and rebound clickers), and the preload. Major suspension tuning is done by changing the actual spring (and valving to match).

[@BigElly12]

I’m too dumb for this I’m just gonna keep everything stock and let my bike beat me up and deal with it

[@delinquense]

Probably not a bad approach ... at least for a few seasons, assuming you are of moderate weight for your bike. By then you'll know if you have any complaints/ issues. Also, by then I'd think you best change the fork oil and then compensate/adjust for any wear that will have naturally taken place over time and usage.

[@thethiefonthecross9092]

@@delinquense what would you suggest for someone who weighs 280 lb? My Raptor wants to kick me off with the rebound it seems like when I hit a bump hard the Springs compress and when it bounces back it wants to throw me off. I was thinking to make it softer somehow so the suspension doesn't bounce back and throw me off. I don't want my rear suspension to shoot me in the air I hurt my wrist real bad last time trying not to fly forward

[@delinquense]

@@thethiefonthecross9092 I'm no suspension genius and there is a lot to consider, your weight being very important ofmcourse-. It's one of those things I tend not to touch very often. I can tell you that when I got my new 2018 Beta 300RR Race, it didn't seem like it was absorbing on the impact. Problem was I hadn't owned a dirt bike for literally 3 decades so I thought that was normal for new suspension. It came with the upgraded Sachs forks. Then I got a 2021 Beta 390RR Race with KYBs and it seems so much better out of the box. All this to say ... I would recommend that you spend a few minutes to understand how your suspension works and then just start playing with it. Don't be afraid to adjust things ... you wont hurt anything. Make sure you write down all of your settings on the clickers. Eventually you will get the responsiveness, comfort and feel that you desire. It's a lot of trial and error. Don't take it in to the shop or you will be beholden to them whenever you have an issue.

[@jessehernandez3006]

😂😂😂😂

[@dannylenz3660]

A good way to test your rebound after your compression is where you like it. Find a section of trail or track with consecutive bumps think whoops or chop. Pay attention as you enter if the first two or three bumps. If the first couple feel great but by the third or fourth bump the suspension feels harsh and continues until your thought the section. Your suspension is packing or staying too low in the stroke. Speed up your rebound. If you go through and by the 2nd pr 3rd bump your bike is bucking sideways and or back and forth your rebound is too fast. I have found this test works best when your are tuning your suspension and you feel you just about have it where you want it. Rebound can be difficult at times to seprate from compression settings. I have found this test helpful to read what the rebound is doing.

[@rmatvmc]

Thanks for the pro tip, Danny!

[@brooksy2093]

Great tip, we do the same when setting up the buggy. Set up on different sections to find a good median for the course

[@Itsjustmelol..]

I’ve found especially in sand whoops you get a lot more bucking from having the rebound set too slow (hard) especially if compression is set too soft. I’ve found at least in sand having the Compression both high and low speed set as stiff as you can stand and the rebound very fast like 19-20 clicks out allows you to ride as fast as you dare without losing control especially in the whoops.

[@bikerdude6119]

I was actually looking up videos for this exact issue on big rollers

[@EarthSurferUSA]

@@Itsjustmelol.. I like using a heavier spring with very little spring preload, (especially for the forks), with light compression and heavier rebound to control the spring. I like it when the springs do more work than the compression damping, and I also love the sand whoops. :)

[@lostinpa-dadenduro7555]

Can you make a video about this topic but as applies to trails and single track?

[@redone8341]

I’m not a seasoned rider or anything, but just wondering. Wouldn’t the same principles apply for trails? Or does the slower pace make a large difference?

[@blaketerry8569]

@@redone8341 woods is different then motor cross. Usually in the woods you tend need softer set up

[@100GTAGUY]

@@redone8341 being that most of the dirt bike market is geared towards motocross most bikes come with springs and valving meant to help soak up hard hits and make it more controllable. Riding slower and on bumpy rocky less groomed terrain you won't get the full advantage of the suspension and it will more than likely feel rough. Dirtbikes targeted to trail riding like the dr, wr, or klx to name a few tend to be a bit softer. With how stiff I was running my suspension down in Florida doing enduro/hare scramble style riding on smoother faster terrain with some good bumps n jumps, it's way too stiff for the slower rocky terrain out here in Colorado and needs to be softened up a bit more as my springs alone are kicking the bike out on loose rocks, gravel, and silt on bedrock like crazy.

[@losttheplotcolin]

I have used your videos to check my sag, change out my springs and adjust my dampening. The changes have made a huge difference, it feels like a different bike, in a really good way. Thanks go to you and your colleagues. Cheers guys.

[@rmatvmc]

That's awesome! We love to hear stories like yours. Glad the tips have helped you out! - Chase

[@rookiefmxrider]

Maybe this tip is more for valving but OIL WEIGHT is key for a better suspension feel. I just opened my Racing suspension shop and thanks to great people out there that trust in me my suspension it's working good on the track. Nice video ROCKY MOUNTAIN GUYS very complete and informative. Cheers from Baja Mexico

[@rmatvmc]

Thanks for bringing that point up! Congrats on the new shop!

[@hrbestalkinme3690]

So true. I use slightly thicker oil if the suspension is valved too soft when I first get it. Gets it close enough for me a lot of times

[@EarthSurferUSA]

For me, the lighter the oil the better like 5wt, (does not fade as much). Then I like a heavy spring with light compression damping and a small amount of spring preload, (forks). You will need stiffer rebound after that, but you should find it supple on small stuff and braking bumps, and still able to handle the big hits. With my way, the compression damping does not hold the front up higher, the stiffer spring does. I like the springs to do most of the compression work. Now it is your turn to tell me how to port a 2-stroke engine, because that is what I do for a living. :) Enjoy your business while we still can. Doug in Michigan.

[@rookiefmxrider]

@@EarthSurferUSA Porting a 2 stroke engine is an art. know the STA values is the first thing before make any kind of modification in the ports. Cheers bro! Keep up with your business!

[@MotoMatt418]

Wow. Finally! A much needed video. Thank you for posting 👍🏻👍🏻

[@rmatvmc]

Glad you got something out of it. Thank you!

[@rhd26]

So basically whatever I think the suspension needs.... do the opposite

[@rmatvmc]

Haha! Not always the case, but sometimes!

[@robbietucker7815]

Perhaps we need a more indepth video? Separate sections of the track. Face jumps, landing, whoops, braking bumps, etc.

[@robbietucker7815]

@@rmatvmc @

[@rmatvmc]

@@robbietucker7815 That is a good idea! I've been wanting to get a little more in depth on certain segments.

[@AVCheerst]

Your suspension is a woman

[@BR-kj3fp]

Great video. This is the first time I've heard anyone explain that if you go up a few sizes on spring rate, you'll need to revalve. I learned that the hard way, but it makes sense... a stiffer spring will make the wheel rebound a lot faster if you haven't changed the clickers. If you find your rebound is turned almost all the way in to counter that, you're not allowing the rebound stack to work because all the resistance is on the needle port inside the shock. Turning the rebound in all the way eventually affects the compression side too, and what you have is a dead feeling shock. I'm too cheap to send my suspension out so I learned how to revalve myself from online forums. It's been about 10 years; I've probably saved thousands by now.

[@rmatvmc]

That's awesome! I hope to one day be able to re-valve my own suspension as well. Glad you liked the video and thanks for watching! - Chase

[@tredeuce]

Bought Type 3 Gold Valves from Race Tech at full price then saw them $40 cheaper on Rocky Mountain.... $60 cheaper if you include free shipping over $75...

[@AspearMotorSports]

Listen to pulpmx, theres a discount code

[@wfodavid]

Very nice as always Chase. One thing we used to do when my son raced AX was we would take video (like we saw of you) and we would watch it at the track, make adjustments that both he andI could see. That YZF is a sweet ride!

[@rmatvmc]

That's a good idea. You forget what you heard or saw so quick sometimes. And yes, the YZ250f is a rad machine. Thanks for watching!-Chase

[@marcissobadass]

This is the first time I have actually started to understand what and how the adjusters work. Thanks so much. You guys rock!

[@AntiPattern328]

Great explanation. We don't get enough of these videos. People in the lower classes or just starting out have no idea how to make their suspension work.

[@rmatvmc]

Glad you liked it! Suspension can seem confusing but it can be simplified and easy to understand. - Chase

[@ravi3457]

Wish i had a dirt bike... but still i watch all of your videos ... “Chaze “ is my fav

[@Scythe_Voltage]

One day u will have one, took me a while to save up for one but once I got it, best thing ever

[@ravi3457]

@@Scythe_Voltage yeah sir.... im saving my best to get one 😇

[@xcvsdxvsx]

@@ravi3457 do you have a bike yet?

[@ravi3457]

@@xcvsdxvsx haha. Still no..gonna get one next year.. I'm saving 26 years old now

[@xcvsdxvsx]

@@ravi3457 Doooooo it. Get a cross country racer though like a yz450fx. Mountains and trails are so much better than a motocross track.

[@JMast]

How do you set it up so you get no sag? Not racing just a heavier rider and want a higher balanced

[@samtoshner8002]

Here's a really simple way to approach suspension that anyone can wrap their head around: find a track or section of trail that is representative of the type of riding you do the most. Record your base settings, go out for a short ride (5 min.) Then, try adjusting just one setting. Go a couple of clicks in the direction you think you need so you're sure to notice the difference. Now, go back out and ride that same section again. Better, or worse? If it's worse, try going in the other direction from your base setting. If it's better, try going further. Most importantly, take notes at each step (yes actually write them down). If you're a racer, get someone to time you, but be careful not to put too much weight into timing vs feel as there are other things that can affect your speed, like time of day and how long you've been riding. You'll start to really map out by feel what each setting is doing and one by one you'll be getting them dialed in. There are some more complex interactions that can occur, like when your compression and rebound are both slow and you start packing your suspension down with successive hits, so this method isn't foolproof but it's a heckuva lot better than doing nothing with your clickers because you don't feel like you know enough.

[@Hustler9g]

Finally touched my suspension for the first time after having a too stiff bike for years.

[@burnthepoliticians]

How’d you go mate? Need to stiffen mine and I’ve never touched it before

[@Hustler9g]

@@burnthepoliticians rode it last weekend and it made a world of difference. I'm kicking myself for not doing it sooner

[@iphone3gsdivine]

Riley McKee damn I’m bout to try to loosen mines way too stiff

[@adamflynn7322]

yeah i might try to do mine aswell

[@EarthSurferUSA]

Hmmm, you might want to get the oil changed too. The shock body is usually plated or hard anodized, but if the inside of the forks are not hard anodized, the oil will be mud.

[@lostinpa-dadenduro7555]

Very informative. 👍

[@rmatvmc]

Thanks for watching!

[@jimbrown563]

My 2 cents..... This is regarding riding for entertainment, NOT racing..... Most people ride for entertainment, the hard-core racers are operating with a completely different set of rules, you need to understand the difference. Moto-Cross Racing ALWAYS requires higher Spring Rates and harder Damping, vs riding for Entertainment. First, set both your comp & extension settings ALL THE WAY SOFT, this is so you can test for proper Spring-Rates for YOUR BODY WEIGHT, AND RIDING STYLE. Ride the trails, and or, putz around in the places, and under the conditions, that you expect your bike to handle routinely. Now, push it fairly hard.... Hard front braking over rough terrain SHOULD result in the Forks OCCASIONALLY bottoming-out. If you CAN'T bottom-out the Forks under these conditions, you need softer springs that WILL bottom-out occasionally, BEFORE you mess with increasing any Damping Settings. If you CAN easily bottom-out the Forks, routinely, you need higher rate Springs in your Forks. If you CAN'T bottom-out the forks, you will never get the full travel out of your suspension, which WILL slow you down, and wear you out. The Damping level that you want to add next is just enough to "Dampen" the "Oscillations", (back and forth, or, up and down), of the WEIGHT of the Bike. The Damping adjustments are NOT for "fixing" non-ideal spring rates. GET THE RIGHT SPRINGS for your body weight, and your riding style and environment, FIRST. SPRING RATES COME FIRST, Setting the "rider sag" is Second, Third is Rebound, and last is Compression, for both the Forks, and the rear Shock. When testing for the Rear Spring Rate, you will want to ride over the biggest jumps that you expect to encounter. The biggest jumps should bottom-out the Rear Shock, almost every time, smaller jumps will NOT bottom-out the Rear Shock. You probably don't need to add any Compression Damping to the Rear Shock above the minimum setting, HOWEVER, Rebound, or, "Extension" Damping IS CRITICAL on the Rear Shock, too much, and you will loose traction, and be slower, to little, and the Bike will be a "bucking bronco", and try to throw you over the handlebars, and, make your jump landings, land on the front wheel. Rear Extension Damping keeps the rear end of the Bike DOWN, THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT, but don't over-do it. Stand on the pegs with your knees bent, and try to "pump" the suspension up and down, the Forks should ALWAYS rebound faster than the Rear Shock. Sag....... The factory recommended settings are not necessarily bad, but sometimes they are a compromise. I like to do it this way.... Get the manufacturers numbers for the full, Front and Rear Suspension Travel, lets say that the number is ~10 inches, this divides the travel by 10 for easy math. If "zero" is completely Bottomed-out, and 10 is completely Extended, the static "Sag" position should be at around ~4" with the rider in "attack position" on the Bike. The amount of Extension Travel, AND the amount of Compression Travel, ARE EQUALLY IMPORTANT, but having slightly more Compression Travel will help to compensate for the loss of Suspension Travel caused by weight transfer of the Bike and Rider when braking, accelerating, or landing from a jump. Extension Travel KEEPS THE TIRES ON THE GROUND, WHERE THEY HAVE TRACTION, and, "Traction is Action". If your wheels are NOT on the ground, YOU ARE BACKING-UP, and the Bike will be out of control, and SLOW. You want to make complete use of every single inch of Suspension Travel, based on your riding style and environment. Let the Suspension do the work, SO YOU DON'T HAVE TO, that way you can concentrate on riding and having fun, instead of just trying to "hang-on for dear life". . .

[@joaovitoralvesandrade5046]

Best video in the internet

[@thumpertorque_]

Very well made detailed video, though my situation is a little different. I'm learning this for street riding on my DRZ400SM. I'm planning on riding with a passenger and to compensate for the extra weight, should I stiffen up the high and low speed compression? Also should I just stiffen the rear or the front too? Thanks.

[@magnusengelmark]

Time! I have never planned to do suspension settings setup work instead of just riding. Like if I have half a day do be a dirt bike rider I’m going to ride like the weekend warrior I am. But I want nothing else than a perfectly tuned bike! Aah, help! 😂🤘🏻

[@GroovyVideo2]

mount gopro under engine to watch wheel movement - Helps a HUGE amount

[@brucebfd]

Great idea!!!!

[@catmanflorida8545]

Thank you very much for this info. It explains alot of the mystery about suspension problems. This helps me understand why the bike doesn't feel right.

[@rmatvmc]

Glad it helped you out!

[@jimmystevens9028]

Loving these videos, just got a 2017 KTM 450. Never adjusted the suspension in a bike before, had no clue about sag. Not my first bike, just never messed with it.

[@CHECKERD444]

Good all around info...Thank you !!

[@DGfilms1996]

Also if your suspension is not serviced and is leaking oil you will always be chasing your tail. The right amount of oil is key to how the suspension works. If you have a leaking shock or forks it will never feel right.

[@rmatvmc]

Very true. Thanks for mentioning that!

[@thepatternforms859]

So I get what compression and rebound is but what the hell is “damping” when you “increase damping” on compression or rebound *damping* then are you increasing or decreasing compression and rebound? Why the hell is the word damping even used?

[@nat5677]

If you increase damping you are slowing the compression and rebound. You are increasing the resistance of the fluid through the piston. If someone says you should increase your compression damping they’re saying to add more compression. Stiffen=add damping. Soften=remove damping.

[@thepatternforms859]

@@nat5677 so your saying if I increase damping then I’m slowing the movement down. But if I want my front wheel to rebound quicker with more force (back towards the ground) I should increase rebound damping? So i need to slow it down in order to speed it up? See how it gets confusing for a dumb person like me?

[@bwhaskell]

My only comment is that rear end squat under acceleration, and compression on smaller landings and rollers are typically "low speed" shock shaft velocities that Low Speed Compression will resolve. High Speed Compression is typically for square edged bumps and hard landings. That said, adjustments made to LSC will effect HSC as well.

[@707LAKE]

awesome description of comp being too soft!!! i love these vids!

[@peaceprayer595]

Modern suspension is amazing. I remember when clicks barely made a difference.

[@sethjeffreys3055]

I got a 2017 300xc with aer i have the compression turned all the way out to make it plush im in 1st to 2nd gear nasty roots and rocks . I see nothing wrong with it turned all the way out and i really like the plush ride now what are your opionions on this setting im 250lb air side 145-155 psi .

[@rmatvmc]

Seth, if it feels good to you and you're happy with it, then that's all you need. Now if you took that same setting out to the desert and was hitting some high speed bumps and jumps, it most likely would be too soft. Suspension is all about what makes you feel comfortable. No two people are the same.-Chase

[@sethjeffreys3055]

@@rmatvmc that was my thoughts allso THANKYOU! For the reply!

[@frankthebutcher6704]

Seth Jeffreys I am going to try this.

@@frankthebutcher6704 Frank where do you ride how fast do you ride and how heavy are you, and what kind of bike are you riding

[@Itsjustmelol..]

For slow stuff it’s probably fine but I’m only 152lbs on a 2018 450SXF that weighs only 217lbs on a full tank and ride fast rough sand and even at 160psi if I went out more than 16 clicks on the compression the front fork would dive way too deep into the stroke and would unload the rear suspension causing the rear of the bike to swap side to side no matter what I did to the rear suspension setup. I fixed it by lowering the pressure (I did it a few psi at a time). I ended up at 126psi but kept turning the compression in until it felt perfect. I ended up at 7 clicks out. It actually feels a lot less harsh in the hands this way versus 158-160 and 17-19 clicks out and it’s so much more stable in the whoops no matter how fast I go.

[@austinbobcat3179]

Holy hell, I have never touched my suspension until this video, this showed me how to fix a couple problems with my suspension that I didn’t know how to deal with before. Thank you so much:)

[@rmatvmc]

Great to hear!

[@chalo212]

Last Saturday went awesome. I was having a lot of doubts about my bike and what to do in the future with it..... I fell in love with it once again because I went back to stock settings and started from there again. Turns out I was going the wrong way with some settings. Going back to basics made miracles for me.

[@rmatvmc]

That's awesome to hear! Thanks for sharing your feedback.

[@ashrayhebbar5885]

Thanks for this video, this is golden!

[@Curiouscricket]

My racetech guy taught me to set it all in the middle, and then adjust one setting four clicks in one direction. If it feels better, do four more. If it feels worse back it up two clicks and of course go the other direction if it still feels worse at two. Then do the same for each. I just hate doing a lap or two and having to ride back to the truck to adjust. I need to get myself a stylin fanny pack I can put a flathead and some sockets in so I can just pull over on the track and do it there. Those clickers on the bottom of the forks are always fun to get to when adjusting on your own. All that being said, I'm getting back into riding and find that my comfort level and skill is changing faster than I can adjust my suspension, so I need to chill until I start to flatten out in a comfortable spot.

[@imagegraphics16]

few tips here!!! adjust sag first, the clicks affect how the bike turn too

[@lbarura4627]

My forks feel so stiff and it fells like it wants to wash out I put new seals in and oil just emptied out sum oil hope it helps I rare on fine sand dirt

[@rmatvmc]

How much do you weight and what spring rates do you have in your forks? - Chase

[@lbarura4627]

@@rmatvmcthanks , about 180 I have to get new springs the dude who had it before me was 210 lbs I may have gotten used to the blown out shock feeling ,he raced so every thing is real stiff I might mess with the compression when I get home

[@MaxwellBenson80]

Another awesome video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with us!!

[@rmatvmc]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@redone8341]

Great insight for beginners like me. Thanks Jase!

[@rmatvmc]

Glad it was helpful!

[@EarthSurferUSA]

1:15 "Alright, first things first", then he skipped the first things that are suppose to be first. 1) Make sure you have the proper spring rates for your weight and the rear sag set correctly, (front to if you can). 2) Make sure your shock linkage is maintained well. Get rid of any friction in the suspension system (front and back), that is not suppose to be there. 3) Then play with the clickers. There is one fantastic book I know about that if you read and understand it, you may be sharp enough to start a suspension company and do well. Paul Thede's Race Tech Suspension Bible. Did you with a well lubed and properly working linkage, you can actually set your rebound dampening by pushing on the seat and watching how it rebounds? Compression is way more complicated because of all the different bumps, and all rebound has to do is control the spring rebound, and help keep the tire on the ground for traction.

[@bagbrothers7787]

I have always just worked with how a bike is set up for my trail riding. I recently rebuilt& resprung my kx 250 for my weight and need to set sag which led me to want to have it all set up. After 30 years of trails and now living in the desert....

[@EarthSurferUSA]

I took 20 years off trail riding, (I used to race MX also), to find set up is different today, and I don't think very functional. The seat height is usually taller than in the 80's and 90's, and the bars are rotated forward like a 1999 Freestyle set up, with level levers. The rider position has gone forward a bit, and to compensate they use 105mm or more rear suspension sag. I hated the set up, lowered my suspension by .75", my seat by 1" (2019 YZ250 2-stroke, a very tall bike today), rotated my bars and levers back to 1988ish (when we thought better IMO), and set my rear sag at 98mm to start (100mm if I did not lower the suspension), and boom, all the sudden I can feel the corners again if there is no berm. I think we are entering an era of dysfunction, and MX is not alone. I think it is every industry. It is called "progress" in our schools today.

[@lancesteinberg9451]

More than 3 or 4 clicks on compression 90% of the time you will have to adjust rebound to match. Softer compression will probably need faster rebound since there is more movement down, forks will need to come up faster to keep wheel in contact with ground.

[@rmatvmc]

Your are right. A good rule of thumb is for every two clicks on compression, you go 1 click on rebound, whichever direction it is you go. Thanks for watching-Chase

[@EarthSurferUSA]

If your rear end is kicking after a few bumps, it could be the rebound is too slow, or the compression is too hard, and it is hard to tell when riding the bike. It is good to have somebody vidoe it working, then you can tell if the rear end is packing (to much rebound dampening) and kicking because the travel is used up, or kicking because the compression (probably the High Speed compression adjuster, but maybe entering low speed shaft speed.), is too stiff.

[@Thumpermad]

I really like your riding style man you nailed some great berms looked great and fantastic advice cheers

[@rmatvmc]

Thanks Thumpermad. Glad you like the video and you liked the info. Have fun out there! - Chase

[@MrSmokeingood]

The whole going softer and softer thing happened to me today , set it stiff and I was flying over bumps and whoops like they wernt even there

[@EarthSurferUSA]

How about braking bumps on hard ground, especially down hill? Choppy?

[@MrSmokeingood]

That’s exactly what I was feeling, going down hills it felt like my arms were gonna get rattle right off the bars lol I kept going softer and softer making the problem worse. Stiffen up those forks everywhere I ride is hard pack, rocks and sand

[@RideWithTheWolf]

So, ahem ... if the screw is all the way in deep inside the compression hole, the valve is closed. If I open it 10 turns, the fluid will be moving faster and the shock will move faster. If I open it 22 turns that is the maximum flow and the shock will be moving the fastest. If I turn the compression screw all the way out so the nut is sticking out of the hole, there is almost no compression and the fluid is flowing freely and the compression will be soft. If I turn the compression screw clockwise 10 turns, the shock will be harder. I would set the low speed compression higher and the high speed compression lower, to start.

[@mikeeh20]

Great video track surface ie wet/dry soft/hard is also a massive player in set up i've always found that getting plenty of laps in and experimenting with settings you get a feel for what works best under different conditions :D

[@rmatvmc]

That's definitely a great point. Thanks for the input!

[@rmatvmc]

I totally agree. Like i mentioned, there are soooo many things/adjustments that can be made for suspension and so many variables. Hopefully this video just gives some good basic info to get people going in the right direction. Thanks for watching!-Chase

[@masonmirante1538]

Great video

[@scottporter0069]

If the one fork has compression setting and the other has rebound but they are two different entities. How do they work in unison? Always baffled me. Thanks

[@MrAndyloz]

I'm more confused than before the video🤣

[@EverlastingEclipses]

so conclusion is compression: slightly stiffer than base setting rebound: slightly softer than base setting

[@benmartin6476]

I’m 200lbs and checked the sag on my 2022 te300i and it was perfect. Lol

[@snowairland]

Thumbs up for Ogden!

[@andrewmarshall360]

Most new stock bikes come with decent suspension . All’s it takes is a few minor adjustments for free .

[@rmatvmc]

That completely depends on your skill, weight, speed etc. I agree that bikes come with great stock suspension these days, but that doesn't mean it can't be better. TJ Bronson from 891 Suspension and I did a video talking exactly about this. It will be dropping soon! - Chase

If your getting head shake at high speeds you can also tighten your steering stem nut a tad. Made a Hugh difference on my Yamaha, I can relax more at speed with out running a steering damper

[@rmatvmc]

Good advice. I just did that they other day on my Kawi haha. - Chase

[@big_motor_channel.]

I went from riding a 1986 kx125. too a 2019 yz450f. my old kx had some horrible old out dated suspension that I couldn’t do much with. after getting on my yzf the suspension feels amazing but have been told I still need to set it up it feels very hard / stiff this videos has helped me a lot I am nearly 16 stone so may need to do more then just setting but is a great video helped my a lot I thought it was good before but have it so much closers to my needs thanks

[@rmatvmc]

That's awesome to hear, Stephen. Glad we could help you out! Have fun out there and be sure to get signed up for Fantasy SX! - Chase

[@delinquense]

So... Compression setting on fork can be on bottom OR top OR one side of the forks! Easy peasy. I got this.

[@daltynbrewer3565]

Thank you so much!! I never knew what I had to change until now but new something wasn’t right.

[@rmatvmc]

Glad it helped you out. Thanks for watching!

[@FranciscoLeotteDoRego]

Check out this video for a good explanation of suspension: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eJrGnaSKobeKfMk

[@peaceprayer595]

Please don't say 4CS. That fork was and is sacrilege.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

Suspension was a lot more complicated when the MX tracks had bumps.

[@sassafraswakeboyz4121]

Rocky Mountain is the best

[@rmatvmc]

Damn right!

[@ichibangrom9735]

Very informative video!!! Thanks so much

[@rmatvmc]

Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!

[@bigram7235]

Heard a good trick. Put a zip tie on the fork slider to see how far you fork is travelling. If not using almost the whole fork stroke. Set up to stiff.

[@rmatvmc]

That is a good tip! People will do that on mountain bikes as well but another tip is to put the zip tie on inside out to make removing it easier.

[@natereid4497]

Thanks for this video. Great job guys.

[@deekox1]

5:30 Did he first: rear brake - moto started diving and then added throttle to correct the diving ?

[@nickhamill6882]

Awesome explanation man, thanks for your help! 🤙

[@powerwagon3731]

Great info., but the reason I’m posting is to commend your sales staff for their excellent customer service. There was a mix up on one of my orders and they made it disappear. RM has been our {2 sons and I) source of parts 95% of the time since your beginning. 👍👍👍👍👍

[@rmatvmc]

That's awesome to hear, Power Wagon. We really appreciate you and your son's business and thank you for taking the time to write that. We try our best to have the best customer service in the industry. Have a good week!-Chase

[@eugeniomartinmartin7404]

Thank you guy. Really nice explanation

[@rmatvmc]

You bet! Glad you liked it and thanks for watching-Chase

[@juliantoledo6233]

I weigh 115 pounds and ride a 2018 yz 250f and the stock suspension is way too hard for me

[@rmatvmc]

At your weight it should be stiff.

[@adamdyment9732]

Can you guys do a suspension video for trail or enduro riding?

[@rmatvmc]

We've talked about that. Just need to make it happen!

[@adamdyment9732]

That would be awesome. I am definitely not smart enough to figure it out on my own and I am getting worked on some of our PNW trails

[@rmatvmc]

@@adamdyment9732 Sounds good! what bike are you on?

[@adamdyment9732]

I’m on an 06 crf450x which I know isn’t the ideal bike for log hopping, hill climbs and boulder fields. Seems like dialing in the suspension is even more important since it’s setup for more desert riding.

[@toveyashby-crashbyproducti6366]

Thanks for this video! I felt I had some ok knowledge, but this was explained very well and thoroughly.

[@rmatvmc]

Glad it was helpful!

[@macunion1225]

clicked like when he said increase compression to soften it, nice

[@jasonjacklyn65]

I couldn't tell you a good set up from a bad set up

[@courtneygillespie1187]

I don't want to take the jump.....I want it to be a smooth transition.

[@jasonservey7891]

What are the side effects if your rebound is too fast. He explained what it was if it was too slow. Sorry if I missed it somewhere.

[@rmatvmc]

If rebound is too fast on the forks, the fork might feel like it's deflecting rather than absorbing the bumps and chop, climbing out of ruts, or it bounces up after jump landings. For the shock, if it feels like the rear end is kicking after absorbing a bump and maybe you've already gone stiffer on compression, or if under braking and decel, the shock feels like it lifts or dances around is another sign to slow it down.-Chase

[@kyl3dr]

Would a kick from rebound too fast be seen on a single bump? I’ve seen when rebound is too slow the suspension becomes very harsh but only in a series of tightly spaced trail whoops or braking bumps. I’m thinking about going faster on rebound and softer on compression so I can use my travel more fully and be very plush while still able to hit whoops at the same speed. Would this work?

[@susanin_mx]

Very interesting but my English is not good enoug🤣🤣🤣

[@jamesmansfield4240]

If you’re sweating and exhausted, sliding around and not able to keep up when everyone else deems to be doing fine it’s your suspension setup and body position. Put everything to the middle and ride for 20 minutes, Dont make changes to the bike for at least that time. Put your bike on a center stand and stand on the pegs in a neutral position without holding the bars. Rest your hands on the bars with no pressure on your legs or hands. That’s your primary body position. If this takes ANY effort stand up a bit straighter and move your weight forward until you could stand there all day. That’s your basic position. Your thigh muscles are the largest in your body and use the most energy. Squatting on the bike screws up your balance, reaction time and exhausts you. Being relaxed improves balance, reaction time and gives you a basic position to return to for straights and recovery. Once you have this, suspension setup starts to make sense. When you ride for the first time in a day, Dont make changes for 30 minutes! The bike ALWAYS feels shit and wired until you’re warmed up and relaxed! Easy rules: Remember to BREATH. holding your breath starves your muscles and reduces concentration. RELAX - find that neutral riding position. When I’m tired and racing hard I have a mantra that I repeat over and over, “ RELAX….BREATH….RELAX…BREATH” Hey, man it works for me 👍

[@eastwood111]

This is an absolutely horrible explanation. You’re explaining all the what if’s, before actually telling people what they need to know. Horrible teaching!

[@EarthSurferUSA]

He is a retailer, not Paul Thede.

[@Randy_Cox]

I understand how and why the clickers do to the oil flow to controls dampening. I just have a hard time knowing what changes to make to effect feel on bike. This video does pretty good to try and explain the on bike feel compared to clicks and how to tune things out that you dont want.

[@2wheelg98]

For once an actual helpful dirtbike video half the videos on KZbin don’t explain it good enough

[@rmatvmc]

glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching-Chase

[@saladking2370]

Playing with the Valving is where the real rabbit hole begins.

[@rmatvmc]

Yeah, hopefully whoever is doing it for you has a good base to start at.

[@allenhuling598]

A much needed video...thanks!

[@rmatvmc]

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!

[@DJMEDIC671]

How would this work if the bike isn’t rated for the weight? I believe the kx85 is designed for 125lb rifles well in my case my daughter is on 70lbs. Is this even worth touching as a diy person and she’s still learning but hopefully be racing by next year.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

I love all the adjustment there is for suspension today, can be adjust to work for just about anybody. It is a lot more inclusive than the seat heights today, that pretty much exclude anybody under 5'11" tall from good cornering. :) Lower your bike. You will corner better than the guy fiddling with his suspension. :)

[@EarthSurferUSA]

According to Paul Thede's Race Tech Suspension Bible", (probably the best book about motorcycle suspension on the planet), rebound is very easy to set and can be done pretty well by just pushing on the seat and watching/feeling it rise. First you have to make sure the linkage is working well with no binding or added friction, or the test will not work. All you do is have the bike on the ground, front wheel straight, and push down on the seat and let it rise back up with you hand just feeling it. If it is too slow, it will rise and stop at the top. If it is too fast, it will rise past top, come back down a little and do that 2 or 3 ti8mes (oscillating at the top of it's stroke). it it is good, it will rise a tad past the top, and come back down only once and stop. Do that well with the correct spring rate, and all you have to worry about is compression.

[@AbcAbc-ox6pg]

Nice video. I have one question, I just purchased a brand new Yamaha YZ250 out of the box and wanted to dry test the shock by pushing the seat down by hand while adjusting the low speed compression clicker. I screwed it to both min and max settings but it always feels the same when pushing the seat by hand. Is it normal or does my new shock have an issue? The rebound setting works fine and can be clearly determined by pushing the seat down and let it rebound. Only the compression feels always the same. Please let me know if it is normal? Do you feel a difference between min and max lowspeed compression setting with this dry test by hand or not?

[@rmatvmc]

I think you may be overthinking it just a little too much. I wouldn't try to analyze my suspension just pushing down on the seat. I've tried this before when adjusting rebound and unless you spend a lot of time with suspension, it's pretty hard to really feel the difference in your clickers just pushing down on the seat. My guess is your suspension works just fine and you need to go ride on it and feel the difference while riding.-Chase

[@AbcAbc-ox6pg]

@@rmatvmc Thanks for your reply. So you don't feel any difference on your bike's lowspeed compression as well by pushing the seat by hand? Then I think everything is alright with my suspension, at least it is new.

[@rmatvmc]

I think you're suspension is perfectly fine. Go ride it and make sure you're at your factory recommended base settings and make adjustments from there. Let me know how it goes-Chase

[@markaponte7057]

Not Lake Elsinore (Lake Smell some more)

[@EarthSurferUSA]

If you are at a bumpy track where you can see the roost well, you can actually see who has a better rear shock set up. The more the roost is continuous, (on the gas over the bumps), the better the rear wheel is hooking up. The more the roost is "off and on", the more time the wheel is spinning in the air. Again, something I learned from Paul Thede's "suspension bible", from Race Tech.

[@sickofalldabscensorship721]

Thank you for this video. The way you explained things now make much more sense to me. Now I'm going out riding today and doing some testing. I know its going to take me all day but that's OK at least I'll be riding.

[@rmatvmc]

You've got nothing to lose! Make changes and see how it feels. Glad you liked the video and it helped you out. Have fun out there and watch out for that Covid-19! - Chase

[@sickofalldabscensorship721]

@@rmatvmc Hey thanks again for the video you made on suspension setup . Took my time throughout half the the day writing everything down each time I went out . Unfortunately I'm going to have to do it all over again. I'm going to have to buy a heavier spring for the rear. Another thing I tried messing with is something you you might want to make a video on is handlebar position / bar mounts flipping them around definitely makes a difference in how your body position and that in turn seemed to me to make a difference in how I wanted my suspension setup . Or maybe I'm completely wrong. Then again a video like that might make some peoples heads explode Cruz that just throws one more thing into the mix of already so many variables it could get more confusing . P.S. You got a kick ass job RM ATV MC hiring for any product testers? :-) :-)