How to set your Arrma 4x4 3S or 4S BLX Slipper Clutch

Here is an instructional video on how I properly set my slipper clutch on my Arrma Granite 4x4 3S BLX RC truck, but this will apply to all of the Arrma 4x4 BLX 3S and 4S RC cars and trucks.
Please visit arrmaforum.com for more help.

[@rcmedia9516]

I will sub and share, this is the best video on KZbin for slipper adjustment. No one needs a 24 minute video like the large channels do. Thank you for sharing.

[@3drc681]

Dude for many years I have adjusted slippers. Why am I just now seeing this awesome method. Wtf 🤦‍♂️

[@jondilly1974]

I’m a very stable genius. 😜

[@maddogmiked1227]

@@jondilly1974 - Let's take the stable part out of that comment, and I agree... LOL

[@DMHRC]

Wanted to say thank you for the excellent video and also for responding to so many comments below with helpful answers. Really shows that you're trying to encourage others in the hobby!

[@crimsonfancy]

Who downvotes something as simple and effective as this? Good show 👍

[@jondilly1974]

I know right? Haters gonna hate. 🤣🤣

[@crimsonfancy]

@@jondilly1974 any vote is better than no vote. At least thats the way I see it. 😉 As long as there's interaction at my channel I'm satisfied. Of course I'm not trying to make any sort of great progress other than putting up bad videos to have something to do and learn to edit.

[@derjon5]

"downvote" you've been using reddit too much

[@ScottSparks1000]

I tried using the method by holding the rear wheels while pressing full throttle until the car wheelies but my esc seem to cut off so was unsure if I had it set correctly. I tried the way you suggested, and then loosened the clutch and retighten using the wheelie method and found it’s basically the same tightness. 👍

[@kristopherguilbault5428]

Something is wrong with mine I think . I did this method and it didn't wheelie it just kept going ?!? What could this mean? I think I fucked my slipper

[@ScottSparks1000]

@@kristopherguilbault5428 I think maybe remove the slipper clutch and inspect it or maybe it’s just too tight

[@joseCalderon1976]

I'm going to try this out since my slipper clutch keeps getting loose on me. I forgot about this method. Thanks!

[@RedRoxRc]

Brilliant! This is awesome. Thanks for sharing!

[@ludoludo2295]

Thank you for this tips but for me on my first run with my Granite 3S my rear drive shaft poppin out, however I did exactly like you to adjust the slipper.

[@EXTREMERC416]

Thats an interesting way to do it be sure to clean the backend of the slipper when you put back the slipper back togueter again i had so kuch threadlock that my sun gear key did not wanted to fully go inside the hub i had to burn all of that locktite out afterwards

[@jondilly1974]

This was a brand new set of hubs. My old set was damaged in a chassis breakage. I cleaned the screw, spring, and all other slipper parts before assembly.

[@DOFIXERR]

Good stuff! 👍 Although since I tightened the slipper in my Outcast 4S U-joints started poppin’ out left n right. 🤷‍♂️ I just can’t win with that truck...

[@joseCalderon1976]

Nice. I wonder if I should do this before I even run my new outcast 4s for the first time? It's brand new. Subscribed.

[@km7101]

I cleaned up before dropping a drop of loctite, its been 48 hours and it has not cured! What am I doing wrong?

[@cwatson42785]

Thanks for sharing Jon. I subbed

[@Mr.Titanium1911]

Is it best to do this on a rough surface (concrete, ashphalt, etc) or can it be done on a smooth surface such as wood floors/ceramic?

[@jondilly1974]

As long as your tires have moderate grip, I think it will be OK, but I really think the amount of traction that you run on should somewhat match the traction of the surface you set the slipper on. I usually use a somewhat smooth concrete garage floor to set mine and I would consider that a lower traction surface than most areas I run.

[@thisoldnew4544]

I'm new to the hobby but in my mind wood floors that have a finish to them would be slipperier surface isn't the surface that you would be running the truck on so I would do it on asphalt or a concrete garage floor.

[@freeride200]

so on my arrma senton 3s blx V3, i dont need any locktite??

[@jondilly1974]

The V3 includes a lock nut so you shouldn’t need it

[@jracer7189]

Hey I my 6s exb outcast is slipping I’ve checked the diffs seem to be fine I think it’s the center diff and I need to shim it I’m not entirely sure how that needs to be done I feel like I’m over thinking it any help would be great thanks

[@beaglegod1]

I have a question. Just bought a typhon 3s and tried checking the slipper. I cant get it to budge. Cant loosen it. I was trying to loosen and than tighten it down the way you did but this screw wont budge. Is that to be expected from the factory?

[@jondilly1974]

Sounds like it’s got a good amount of thread lock holding the screw. Is the slipper slipping under power? Is there a reason you are trying to adjust it?

[@beaglegod1]

@@jondilly1974 Lol. Actually no.There's no reason for me to be messing with it other than I saw your vid so I figured I'd learn how to access and adjust it. I gotta stop taking things apart just to see how they work.😏

[@jondilly1974]

beaglegod1 it’s all good. Just wanted a little more info to point you in the right direction is all. I like taking things apart too. I just had to redo my K4S slipper as I shredded the spur due to the motor shaft sliding outward. 😱

[@roymoxley2037]

I have a granite never adjusted the slipper ran it probably a dozen times took it out today now only getting power to the front tires any ideas would be greatly appreciated already spent enough at the hobby shop

[@jondilly1974]

Yep either slipper is loose or rear diff is blown. Also could be a popped driveshaft

[@roymoxley2037]

@@jondilly1974 thanks I'll check it out tomorrow

[@crislee4057]

As a full newbie: how did you get to the point at the beginning of the video, what steps do i need to perform in order to get the screwdriver in? thx

[@jondilly1974]

Just pull out the center driveshaft. Stick in a 2mm driver.

[@mattpotts3959]

Do you not have problems with the drive shafts popping out? I have a 3s granite and the book said 1.5 turn out, but I'm also new so lol.

[@jondilly1974]

I used to have issues until I discovered this method. If you’ve popped them once, they need replaced. They will just keep popping easier every time.

[@mattpotts3959]

@@jondilly1974 thanks for fast reply

[@mattpotts3959]

@@jondilly1974 so you do it that way until tires start to skid, and you don't back it out anymore ?

[@jondilly1974]

Matt Potts yes as soon as the tires start to skid, you’re done. I usually do this on a surface with traction like cement or asphalt.

[@cliffjones9922]

Great video! I'm having problems where my driveshafts keep popping apart. The guys on the Arrma forums suggest that my slipper may be too tight and to loosen by a full turn. would you recommend this also, and if I did it, I presume that I check its tightened all the way first like you have in the video?

[@jondilly1974]

Yes if popping u-joints, slipper is too tight and this method should fix that for you. You will need new driveshafts once they pop tho.

[@cliffjones9922]

@@jondilly1974 brilliant! Thanks for taking the time to reply. Got some new shaft on the way

[@kevinwebber1746]

Check your Punch settings on your ESC, you may have punch to high. Less punch will be less st ress on those shafts.

[@woutervanwijk4369]

Everyone on the forum says you need to loctite the setscrew but I don't understand. You need to be able to adjust it and when you do so with a loctited screw won't it be loose again? I thought the 3 piece bearing was to prevent it coming loose.

[@jondilly1974]

The V1-2 style needed Loctite. V3 has a lock nut and maybe doesn’t need it.

[@woutervanwijk4369]

@@jondilly1974 but what about future adjustability?

[@jondilly1974]

@@woutervanwijk4369 why would I need to adjust it? If I get it set right, it’s good to go.

[@woutervanwijk4369]

@@jondilly1974 because the pads will wear, so you might want to be able to tighten them.

[@jondilly1974]

@@woutervanwijk4369 possibly. Haven’t had that happen yet, but I don’t really run my 3S trucks that often anymore.

[@billypln9927]

If I want to not adjust it fully tight ,but 1-1,5 circles from fully tight , have I to loctite it when it will be fully tight, wait 24 hours and adjust that 1-1,5 turns after 24 hours or adjust it 1-1,5 hours down from full and loctite that after that? I have the v3 version but me driveshafts keep popping out. Should I tight till skidding, loctite and thats all?

[@jondilly1974]

If you have popped the shafts once, they need replaced. They keep getting weaker each time they pop. They pop when the slipper is too tight.

[@billypln9927]

@@jondilly1974 I know,I made it rwd and it popped another one that hadnt been popped yet

[@gamercat7004]

My typhon 3s keeps cogging and the screw inside the spur gear keeps coming loose and its doing it so much that i can't drive it not even 5 mins of it just slipping and slows down.

[@jondilly1974]

Might be time to buy the newer style power module. You can usually find them online from kit breakers like Jenny’s RC.

[@gamercat7004]

@jondilly1974 as in the power module, is that the case for the motor mount? I had to update that part. And I had it on the typhon.

[@jondilly1974]

@@gamercat7004actually I think I said the wrong part. It’s the slipper clutch assembly that you’ll need. Example: jennysrc.com/products/arrma-kraton-4s-4x4-center-differential-steel-57t-slipper-set-0-8mod-ara4408v2

[@gamercat7004]

@jondilly1974 I have 2 sets of spur gears, and the steel one is narrow than the pinion with metal gear material. And i swapped back to the metal one again because it's the width matched with the pinion gear. The original spur gear plates broke on it, and the bushings inside for the screw are not fitting in for the new ones.

[@gamercat7004]

@@jondilly1974 I have issues with it just slowing down and going and completely not moving when it cogs so hard even with match width spur and pinion gear.

[@user-qz6sc6hz7t]

what does a slipper clutch do ? and why tighten it?

[@jondilly1974]

It transfers power from the motor to the drivetrain and allows slippage under extreme stress. If it is set too loose, it will slip under smaller stresses which will rob you of performance. If set too tight, it will put drivetrain parts at risk of breakage.

[@surturczech4993]

@@jondilly1974 how do you know that it's too loose? The truck just won't be as fast?

[@jondilly1974]

@@surturczech4993 I can hear it slipping but yes it will loose acceleration and stopping power.

[@43rocket]

how many turns is that adjustment you did??

[@jondilly1974]

The point of this method is to avoid the “number of turns” method as it’s not a very good method for many reasons.

[@Mr.Titanium1911]

Well done 👌🏼

[@Tmaxx8711]

Even with the lock tight can I still remove the assembly to change out spur gears?

[@jondilly1974]

Yes blue loctite is easy to remove later. Red would be more difficult.

[@Tmaxx8711]

Thanks, now it's time to wait 24 hours

[@km7101]

@@jondilly1974 Don't thread lock need lack of or no air to cure?

[@jondilly1974]

@@km7101 yep the TL in the bolt threads will cure. The part outside may not fully cure but still resists allowing the bolt to back out.

[@imserious2187]

How do you know if it's bad or going bad?

[@jondilly1974]

If it just slips a lot

[@turnerc23]

Is this still the way to do it on the V3 BRCC?

[@jondilly1974]

No, I don't think the lock tight portion would be needed with the new lock nut on the V3. As far as setting the slipper tightness, yes, I would think it would still apply. If you still have a V1 or V2 you will want to buy the slipper maintenance kit and shorten your rear input shaft to fit the nut. Or just buy the new V3 input gear.

[@turnerc23]

@@jondilly1974 thanks! See you on the forums. -GingerWeasel

[@TangoOne]

Why not just do what the manual says? 1.5 turns from full tight?

[@jondilly1974]

Because to get to full tight to be able to back it out 1.5 turns, you risk breaking the screw, hub, or smash the spring. I’ve done all three. Also, 1.5 turns or any other predetermined amount doesn’t factor in the age of your slipper pads, the size of your tires, etc. But, all that said, this method no longer applies to the V3 editions anyway as they now have a lock nut to hold the tension properly.

[@futabaguy1]

@@jondilly1974 So this method will not work on Version 3? Can you still apply this method, but do not use the lock tight glue at the end?

[@jondilly1974]

@@futabaguy1 yes just skip the thread lock / loctite step and because the nylon nut doesn’t need time to cure, you can reassemble without waiting. 👍🏻

[@nero2987]

Thanks for all the info Jon you're a champ

[@jracer7189]

How do you do this on a 6s version

[@jondilly1974]

6S doesn’t have a slipper clutch. It has a center diff. You want to use thicker fluid if you want it to be stiffer.

[@jracer7189]

@@jondilly1974 ok I thought so I’m like it’s just a center diff with gears there’s not much to adjust. However I’m having slippage with my gearing it’s definitely slipping gears. I have checked the front and rear diffs appear to have no damage or any grinding of the gears so I assume it’s the center diff and should shim them but if I do that I might as well rebuild the whole center diff on my outcast 6s exb any recommendations would be helpful thanks

[@jondilly1974]

@@jracer7189 I would ask the guys at arrmaforum.com for some help. I haven't been into RC for over a year and my knowledge is slipping.

[@jracer7189]

@@jondilly1974 will do

[@testing316]

Why adjust slipper? Newbie here

[@jondilly1974]

If it’s too tight, you’ll pop driveshaft u-joints. If too loose, you’ll melt slipper pads.

[@dalkontech90]

i dont understand why you lock your slipper you have to lose it for adjustment

[@jondilly1974]

Because it will keep loosening if you don’t use thread lock.