How To Setup RV Water The Right Way!

[@AllAboutRVs]

Check out the Camco Taste Pure Water Filter bit.ly/3WnhTN3 KZbin.com/@CamcoManufacturing Links for the gear Pressure Regulator: amzn.to/4dwSart Water Filter: bit.ly/3WnhTN3 Pressure Gauge: amzn.to/3wBLlUZ Splitter. amzn.to/4bwKlk3 Shutoff. amzn.to/3whSs55 Quick Disconnect Black tank flush. amzn.to/4aab30M My Favorite Hose. amzn.to/4buBAac Our Winter hose. amzn.to/4durMyG

[@cavemancavemanjesussaves]

Pressure regulator link takes me to winter hose, may I please have the correct link? Thanks!

[@TheFiremanJoe]

@@cavemancavemanjesussavesall the links work correctly for me.

[@cavemancavemanjesussaves]

@@TheFiremanJoe he must have fixed it, now it takes me to the pressure regulator but before it was the winter hose. Have a great day

[@cherimelton9753]

I always put the filter last because there can be "stuff/mold" in the hose and I want to filter that before it goes into the rig. Great video Jared!

[@timurray2000]

Yes. Jared got this one very wrong.

[@paulwinkelman]

@@timurray2000 he mentioned several times of putting the filter last....but he also listed reasons why some may want it set up different ways. Like he said, its all preference of the user.

[@danielp.621]

I have seen videos where they cut the water hose open and there is black mold in the hose, so I believe the filter going in just before your rig is the best way also.

[@calledtojourney]

Few people do it, but if you're going to use the same hose for longer than a year, it should be sanitized at least annually and preferably more often.

[@kuriusly23]

Yes, agree, I would want the filter to be the last thing ester touches before entering the rig

[@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS]

EXCELLENT video Jared, one thing I would like to add for those using external tank rinsers... install a check valve/vacuum breaker as the first piece of the water connection. its fine to add more vacuum breakers along the line somwhere, but this vacuum breaker connected directly to the water pedestal is, in many cases, going to be higher than where its installed on the tank rinser (rhino blaster, flush king). Vacuum breakers should be about 12" above the rest of the water system to work best. as always, another super informative video Jared!

[@hookin1]

Good information. Don't forget to get a bag of extra hose washers.

[@MonacoMike]

I also spray the campground connection with Lysol before I connect anything. I've actually seen someone stick their sewar hose over the spigot to flush out their sewar hose. I also give a short burst of water out of the spigot .

[@BeefNEggs057]

Yeah drink that Lysol. So good for you cousin Eddie.

[@jkyner8640]

You provided some good tips, some I intend to use. I would like to share some of my ideas: Depending on your RV, in my case, the city water connection is on the RV bulkhead outside compartments, so I add an 90 degree elbow at that connection to relieve any weight of a filter or other equipment. I add a "Y" gate with cutoff valves to the source. This allows me to add additional hoses without interrupting water to flow to the coach. The last thing is I do (when breaking down) is to empty the water hoses, then connect the ends together to keep out any unwanted dirt, bugs, etc from getting in to them.

[@jackpritchard750]

Worth adding is a pressure regulator on the black tank flush line. When we first used our trailer, I hooked it up directly as several here have described. About the third trip, it blew off a fitting between the hookup and spray nozzles, filling the underbelly with water. Repair time! Since then my flush hose has a pressure regulator and backflow preventer.

[@calledtojourney]

Good advice! One thing I would add is that it's handy to have an on/off valve on the end of the hose where it connects to your RV. Especially if the water spigot is some distance from your RV, it's often handy to be able to turn off/on the water without going to the spigot.

[@SLOCLMBR]

A nice 90⁰ ball valve too!

[@RejectDaleri]

…spigot? You mean spicket?

[@jamessimon7292]

​@RejectDaleri they mean spigot.

[@mstewpie]

I saw your suggestion for rinsing out the hose before use, I usually will rinse before putting it away, and after rinsing, I will loop up the hose, and then connect both ends together, sealing the hose closed. My preference. I also cap my filter on both ends.

[@rustystrong6816]

And I run a little chlorine thru the hose before I put it away.

[@mstewpie]

@@rustystrong6816 unless you are running clear water after it, I wouldn't, I only do that in the spring, or before my first use, at the same time I rinse my water lines with bleach.

[@raisingwildberrys]

Outside of high pressure water parks we prefer to put the filter then the regulator. Reason being we have a tankless water heater and it is flow/pressure sensitive so we prefer to adjust the regulator after the filter. Great video!

[@AllAboutRVs]

Thanks!

[@tksleeper]

We run a 3 filter system and the last filter is like 0.2 micron. I have seen some flow degradation however the fix when you have high water pressure is to put the regulator last. I can run 60 psi through my filter system... and we run 45 into the coach. It helps a lot. Great video.

[@twodogsandtheirfamily]

We love having our filters and regulator built in to our RV. Best additions we made. Just have to hook up a hose, and that's rated for over 100 psi.

[@AllAboutRVs]

Great way to do it. We didn’t have the room to make it work well that way. The Zero G Hose is at 500-600 psi which is amazing.

[@woodcraft66]

I connect the ends together when storing the hose and filter. The the regulator is attached to a Y valve so it is always second in line. the filter is last in case there is mold or mildew in the hose.

[@LowGuppy]

Highly recommend a flexible hose stem ahead of the regulator, I had one sheer off in high winds overnight and didn't notice until morning when I had no water and there was a BIG puddle

[@andreasimpson9920]

Thank you so much for this video!! We live fulltime in our RV in Florida so we're in warm weather. This video taught me about: (1) the water pressure gage (I'm going to buy one); (2) to replace my Y hose splitter that has the on/off knows with a splitter without knobs; (3) how to use the water pressure gage with the gage you can regulate. Thank you so much

[@brittse]

I have a wonky water situation at my new long term spot and haven't been able to figure out the connection setup to benefit pressure and 3 connection off 1 until this video! Thank you 👍

[@michaellejos8038]

I always put a regulator 1st. I’ve notice some parks has static pressure during the day, but the flow adjust higher during night time…Filter last, there’s a reason why some Trailers have filter in pre-installed. There’s stuff in the hose that might not get knocked loose until some time, and the filter will well “filter” that…

[@MechanicMark613]

Wintertime I always fill my holding tank and use my water pump which gives me perfect pressure and do not need to worry about hose freezing

[@TomSpurlock]

TIP. Using the 6" white extension hose with yellow screw-on is handy. I never throw those away. It's much easier to leave one of those extensions attached to the regulator, making it much easier and quicker to screw the regulator to the faucet. It provides better grip with the little knobs, and more room for your hands to work at screwing it on, versus screwing the regulator directly onto the faucet. Try it, you'll like it.

[@berthaduniverse]

Great episode. We rarely connect to "city" water, so this is a great reminder (if you only do it every few years).

[@LSZEsq]

I thought I knew how to do all this, but I always learn something from you.

[@AckermanAdventures]

We were in sub freezing temperatures for about 2 weeks without a heated hose. I just filled my tank every couple of days and left the tank heater on. No need to waste money on a heated hose for the temporary cold snap, less to carry around, and I've heard the heated hoses can break regularly.

[@BradAllen1315]

I've had pretty good success with having a spigot with four outlets and quick connects. I have one outlet with just the black hose connected, one outlet with just a water pressure gauge, one outlet going to my fresh water hose, and one outlet open for miscellaneous such as washing your hands or anything else you may need.

[@Marlene-zd4xm]

Thank you for the detailed explanations and extra thoughts about why things work or don’t work. Your insight provides valuable ideas for newbs like me! Appreciate your work! Subscribed!

[@crashweekly7925]

I have never been to a park that has high pressure, I find that just using the inline filter cuts the pressure down enough that I have never had issues. I would love to have the option of more water pressure, showers aren't fun when you have low pressure. I live in Canada and the winters get very cold, I made my own heated hose out of heat trace wire and some foam insulation that works so well that my water always came out luke warm after it would sit for a while. I like the fact that if my hose wears out I can replace it and not have to spend $200 on another heated hose. If the heat element goes out on a heated hose it's garbage, if my heat trace fails I just replace it with a new one from a hardware store for $30. They coil up small so I always have a few spares available for emergencies.

[@FollowingtheYellowBrickRoad]

The configuration can change as well when the hose bib is less than 12 inches from the ground. I’ve seen this several times

[@rosswunderlich5299]

A couple of comments/questions… There’s pressure drop thru the hose too so I typically mount my pressure regulator just before it connects to the camper to keep my pressure inside the camper at the regulated pressure rather than less. How do you add minerals back into your drinking water that is treated with an RO system? Also….just a comment…..I include a backflow preventer (check valve) right after the splitter on the black tank wash hose to prevent anything backing up into my fresh water supply.

[@AllAboutRVs]

Yes as long as your hose can handle high pressure like a Zerro G that works but if you have a white hose those don't typically handle high pressure. We use this R.O. System. amzn.to/3WDFWHT Not a bad idea for redundancy on the black flow preventer.

[@BeefNEggs057]

Those in line filters break after 60 psi and no longer filter. Pressure reg before filter. Always.

[@rosswunderlich5299]

@@BeefNEggs057 Thanks for the heads up. I'll change that in the future.

[@lesrea1267]

@@rosswunderlich5299 I have been taught to put the regulator at the camper because if your hose sits out in the sun after the regulator then it can build pressure.

[@jamescox857]

Best advice is turn on the water slowly at first or you’ll blow up you back flow preventer and if that happens you’ll get water filling your tank and overflowing. The part in the water pump is plastic with a very cheap spring. I went thru 3 water pumps before I got excellent advise

[@johnturner7322]

We generally camp in more moderate to warm/hot temps, so I hookup a y-splitter them one one side my regulator then my filter then my hose to the RV. On the other side a misc hose w/sprayer for just spraying things off. I had one of those adjustable regulators and usually set it for 50-55 PSI, but I left it at some site so now I am using one of those preset inline models. I hope to rectify this at a later date. I do like the idea of the guage assembly to simply check the pressure, I will have to put one together. I think I have all the parts needed!

[@terryhaynes1596]

I had an instance where the water quality was very poor. Unknowing, I connected the pressure regulator first and the water contaminants clogged and destroyed the pressure regulator. So now I test the water water pressure using a water pressure gauge. If its not high, I connect a short hose from the city supply to a large water filter (one that comes with a large water softener), then the pressure regulator and then hose to the RV. Inside of the fifth wheel, there is a triple water filter and softener (from Mobile Must Have) permanently installed. The output of these filters/softener is used to fill the fresh water tank and supply water to the rest of the RV. I have an RO and a UV filter under the sink for drinking water and the ice maker. Oh, I live in San Diego so I don't have to worry about cold weather.

[@Tuttle723]

PR first is great as long as the water is source is above ground. We've been in many parks that had below ground water where we had to go the house first.

[@edeitelman1109]

Your content has helped me a lot through several projects. I do have a couple of thoughts. First, when storing my hose/equipment I simply connect the male to the female end. This prevents bugs or dirt or even a fair amount of cross contamination should the fresh water hose come close to the black tank hose. Second, all the brass fittings need to be drinking water safe. Brass contains lead so picking up say a splitter in the garden department of a store is not a good idea if it is inline with the rv water supply. Finally, I use a backflow preventer on the part of my splitter where I’m going to to connect the black water hose. The black water hose is connected to the splitter at a full hookup site but at a dump station to the non potable faucet so cross contamination can be a concern. Oh yeah one more thing. I usually connect the splitter first before anything so the I can get the highest pressure possible spraying into the black water tank

[@peterkunka2694]

Warm weather; pressure regulator, filter, hose. Cold weather; fill fresh tank mid-day with warm weather hook-up method, and then keep tank warm with heaters and use on-board water pump. No freezing outside hose connections this way. Cheers! Pete in Arizona - KI7LIL

[@garryhammond3117]

Great info as usual Jared - Thanks for your continuing awesome content. - Cheers!

[@travisp32]

You may consider a check valve in line to the black tank. It will protect any backwash into your potable water system. That’s just my plumber brain working. Everything else is cool, that is the same pressure regulator I use as well. I have been a plumber for 23 years btw. I like your videos though, you always have good info…..or at least good food for thought. 👍

[@lancehector4485]

A Watts #7 dual check would be a great addition to the black tank flush line.

[@travisp32]

@@lancehector4485 yeah!! Something like that or even just a simple spring check would be better than nothing.

[@TheJaxsonjack]

Should that Check Valve be installed at the spigot (where there would be a "Y" connector ... I suppose?) or at the Black Tank Flush inlet on the camper? Thanks.

[@scrub175]

Thoughts on connecting the filter/regulator to one side of the wye splitter, then a vacuum breaker and utility hose on the other side of the wye splitter. That way you could have unregulated water pressure for cleaning or black tank rinse. The vacuum breaker keeps the supply side safer.

[@coreymerritt7742]

Thanks Jared I also hook everything up the same as yours and I run a second hose off a splitter and go to my rhino flush for the black tank 👍

[@AllAboutRVs]

👍🏼

[@paulmarentette5346]

I wish regulators could boost pressure too! Seems more common to find camp-supplied water sources deliver too low of pressure for satisfying flow at sink faucets and shower. In those instances I run from our freshwater tank which is helped by a capable pump and a pre-pressurized accumulator tank, but even it is filled through our regulated supply setup much as yours is (bib->regulator-> hose->in-line filter->flex extension->trailer->strainer->pump->household filter->faucet.) Out of habit, my first connection is just the supply hose which I run out for a few minutes to release initial crud from the camp's supply line and possibly the hose. My favorite tool is a MetroVac Sidekick blower that I also use to blow out the lines every time before capping the hoses and putting them away. Sort of a water snob so we also bring an 8 gal RO jug along for our drinking water, coffee and ice.

[@AllAboutRVs]

Just a thought. We have filled our tanks and used the pump in parks that had really low pressure.

[@andrewfidel2220]

Here's a tip, if you're faced with really low water pressure you can turn on your water pump while still connected to city water. We were at a park that had like 10psi of water pressure, way too low to take showers, turn on the 12v pump and back up to 45psi, most of the flow comes from the city water connection but just enough was supplied from the fresh water tank to allow for showers.

[@CruisingMorningStar]

We avoid the pressure regulator completely by using only tank water. When the tank starts to get low we just turn on the hose and five minutes later we’re done. Since the tank vents to the atmosphere there is no way it can damage the plumbing. Side benefit…tank water is always fresh!

[@Blues2cool]

Here ya go, regulator,water softener, 2. Stage filters, and hose to rv. If it's cold add a heated hose and a heat strip. 5 micro filters are for sediment only. Do to drought conditions many campground wells are barely sanitary and filtering to .1 micron is really important. Something to consider.

[@philsmith5400]

Right at the end, you addressed a question that I had - is it ok to hook my black tank flush up directly to the potentially high pressure water. And, thanks, I will try out that brand of filter!

[@Masensabaugh]

So I have always turn the water spigot on to flush it before hooking anything up. Something I learn from firefighters who do this to hydrants to flush any dirt that might be in the pipes.

[@chefchris5133]

I suggest a vacuum breaker/backflow preventer for each hose connection.

[@RickandDarcirvadventures]

I put a T on the water faucet. Then on one hole of the T is the water pressure regulator then hose to a 3 filter water system. Then a hose to the water Softner then a hose to the motorhome. Off the other hole of the T I put my black tank flush hose on and connect it directly to the motorhome.

[@XLSLife]

After the first winter with the heated hose I've gotten into the habit of putting the pressure regulator inside the water bay. I need to remember to put it outside, it's not as in the way out there. But my regular hose is rated for something absurd like 600psi, so it's not like it needed the protection, haha.

[@howardwatts4238]

Once a long time ago i think 1978 at state park in tn. I connected dverything up did not check water outlet. When tareing down the starcraft ten camper. There was a frog at the outlet when i disconnected. 9 people used the water that long weekend. From thursday till monday afternoon

[@XLSLife]

I stayed at a very nice campground at a forest preserve that had the pressure regulator on their well pump break and stick on. We don't know what the pressure got to but it blew out a metal pipe in their well shed. Unfortunately, 1 camper didn't have a pressure regulator and they spent the next day trying to dry out their camper after it burst fittings.

[@randym5975]

When testing just the water pressure make sure you flush the water faucet before you put the test guage on. The pressure guage has a very little hole to allow the water into the guage. Sand or any debris inside the waterline will cause a false reading on the gauge or not read at all.

[@chrisnwilm]

Always protect your hose! Always!

[@stangodard1]

Great video, as always. I do mine almost exactly like you described. Thanks for always providing excellent information!

[@AllAboutRVs]

Thanks. Glad to help

[@peteionescu1107]

Good video,but I want to ask you in the freezing temp you don't have the gauge broke (don't show the pressure anymore).It happen to me .

[@mattkaminski6618]

We usually put the hose first, filters, then regulator. Our hose and filter housings will withstand well over 100 psi so that's not much of a concern. The two reasons I chose setup this way is, first, there will be a pressure drop after the filter setup. How much will be determined by the type of filter and the age of the filter. I don't really want to drop the pressure down to 55~60 psi only to have it drop again after the filters. Second, when the regulator is first, all the sediment and contaminants in the water get pushed through the regulator, shortening its life. That might be the reason you've seen the pressure dial fail in the past. We do carry a spare regulator with us that I've tested and setup so it's ready to go just in case one fails or I leave it behind, somehow. If the pressure is over 100 psi, I'll probably put the regulator first, just to be on the safe side but we haven't had that issue yet.

[@petergutting1339]

I use double filters. One at the faucet, and one at the trailer.

[@AllAboutRVs]

Nice

[@stephencantbewrong8250]

Absolutely fantastic!

[@wildernessman760]

if an rv park is on a well system they will be generally set between 30-50 psi. or 40-60 psi if they're on city water it depends on how far they are away from the water tower as to how high the water pressure is. i am a service tech for a well company and i was a tech at a water department before that.

[@sarahmcarthur9107]

Ok, I'm confused--if you're worried about your pressure regulator freezing in cold weather, why does it make a difference to put it after the heated hose rather than before? It seems like it would freeze either way? Thanks once again for the information--it's always so helpful!

[@DJohnson-q5b]

I do splitter first then short flex and then filter why put all that weight on your plastic RV fitting. Also I use a 90 elbow with a shut off at the final end just before the RV then turn it all on and flush the air out of your hose and connect at RV and turn on the valve at the end. This allows you to check your flow and make sure your water is clean and you are not putting any air into your RV water system. I do use the dinking water rated zero G hose that is very easy to deal with regardless of outdoor temperature and also never kinks or leaks.

[@clintstevenson1214]

Thanks for another fantastic educational video.

[@timdennis5853]

Another good video. Simple problem, how do you connect the y splitter so that it's always facing out? Every time I screw it on, it faces the opposite direction making it hard to shut off the water.

[@chintasrvvegankitchen7761]

So much information, I have a new RV, I can't seem to thread a hose to the water attachment in fresh water hook up spout inside the hatch on the outside of the RV which sits between two knobs, one says hot and the other cold. It won't accept a house, it has a strange type of male nozzle, nothing to thread to. I guess I need a special piece of equipment?

[@mychannelsirr]

my hook up for water are all outside no compartment for it. im curently doing winter rv living for a couple of more months. my water source is winterized(heated cable wrapped around and insulated, also im using a heated water hose. my only conern is the in between those two which is my pressure regulator and the filter. do those need heated cables wrapped around it as well? or its enough to wrap it with aluminum foil and then insulating more with one of those pool noodle cut to fit to prevent from freezing?

[@Tom-In-Ga]

If you're going to connect your black tank flush along with your potable water to the hydrant, you might want to add a backflow preventer to the black tank flush hose.

[@Mixer-he2wb]

I usually also keep the flush with a quick disconnect and only connect it up to actually flush.

[@rictech.]

Yes … great video. Thank you

[@romo9296]

Could you do a video on your RO system?

[@JohnSmith-tk9db]

Hi Jared… I noticed when you showed a shot of your plumbing the there is flex hose clamped with PEX clamps… I’m of the understanding that this is incorrect and a source of leaks for many RVs. We’ve been looking to get our first TT and every single one from any of the brands we’ve looked at has some use of flex + PEX clamps (some much much more than others). Question: have you had issues? Have you “fixed” any of these connections? Other thoughts? Thank you!

[@shanedenmark5536]

I always filter after the hose to catch any crap in the hose while it was in storage plus I’ve noticed a taste difference filtering after the hose. I also don’t like to put the filter in front of the hose because a lot of the campgrounds I frequent have the water hookup down low by the ground and the filter would lay on the ground. Yucky. I built what I call a kanooter valve; quick connect, ball valve shutoff, filter, regulator, little hose piece, 90° brass fitting, quick connect. It stays as one piece and is easy to set up.

[@shiftfocus1]

My water filter is onboard, so one less variable. My setup preference is to have the regulator attached to the 90 degree elbow I use at the side of the rig, so I can’t forget it on the bib. Feel free to ask how I learned to do it this way.

[@michaelmunter8074]

In sub freezing weather, can you use an additional hose connected to your heated hose? Will it keep the water warm enough to prevent freezing in the extra hose?

[@johnmiller-ze8ml]

A hose exposed to the sun on a hot day will add pressure to the system requiring a regulator between the hose and camper.

[@BestNCBBQ]

Filter, hose and regulator at the Nautilus. I don’t camp in freezing weather so those issues are not applicable.

[@neilrankin9945]

Thank you for the video. Any tips for water softener position? I currently have adjustable water pressure regulator on faucet then the water softener followed by hose to the Rv. My filter is under the kitchen sink.

[@Patrick_Gray]

Would like to know what people do to their fresh water tank before they use the camper. I put 1/4 cup of Clorox bleach per 15 gallons of fresh water in the tank and travel with it until I get to the campground. Then I drain the fresh water tank and refill it. I have bought Camco Drinking Water Freshener and plan on using it in the final fill of fresh water.

[@mattlimberg5763]

Good to flush put the hose before connecting to RV to always bleed the system a bit so you don't have as mich air.

[@CampsiteCruising]

Good video. Thanks for sharing

[@ADONAIsays-so]

Id put an anti-backflow on the tank wash hose bib.

[@jamesglenn520]

Most rvs have one built in where you connect the hose.

[@ADONAIsays-so]

@@jamesglenn520 I didn't realize that.

[@1crussell]

Good advice 👍

[@scottcarpenter2317]

How often do you change your filter out, and when do you know when it's bad

[@missouritravelers]

I put the regolator on the other side of the filter

[@Super_C_Chows]

Great video....I ve seen several different set ups, new You can get confused

[@AllAboutRVs]

Thanks!

[@elly6922]

Sorry, newbie here. Is there a reason to regulate your regular hose water? I put the y with my hose and sprayer on one side then the regulator with hose and filter on the other side. Sorry if that's a dumb question.

[@rodl12]

I've been using a Clear20 sediment and 1 micron water filter and I have noticed weak pressure in my camper. Is that what you were using when you mentioned the 1 micron water filter?

[@kristi8220]

Thanks for the info.

[@AllAboutRVs]

You bet!

[@citizenracer]

What kind of RO system do you have in your RV? Thanks!

[@tonyndebr]

Please let me know about the RO system you use. Our son had very salty water. W want to remove that. Thank you!

[@lancewulfers2502]

Flush out your water hoses with vinegar before you put them away. It kills most mold or mildew inside the hose.

[@mikeha9676]

Hi Jared, Are you no longer endorsing the Camco TastePURE RV Sediment Pre-Filter (40048)? Thx Mike

[@fred881]

what good is that gauge ? it tells you the presure so what ? if you have a pressure regulator does not that do the job ?

[@christophercraig9611]

I'm paranoid about my black flush line and even though I know there's an anti-drainback valve in the RV I run another one in the black flush system. I like to be extra sure i'm not getting any contamination into my water system.

[@stephencantbewrong8250]

I do the exact same thing. Kind of a belt and suspenders for waste water.

[@eddiedoherty2349]

The pressure regulator shown in the video had a flaw, the gauge will break if frozen and give an improper reading. Just use a fixed inline pressure regulator

[@AllAboutRVs]

Thats why it gets moved in the bay for connection because even an inline one can freeze, break and leave you with no water when frozen. It either has to be heated and wrapped or inside for me.

[@shawnshreves1243]

Thoughts on a water softener ?

[@TerpakTV]

The hose on the table, is not the one you link to in your Amazon gear. What hose is that one?

[@josephyarchak8701]

We are still very new to RVing and we have found so far the sites we have visited the spicket is too close to the ground to add the filter after the regulator. So we set it up as regulator hose filter because of lack of spacing option. Is this setup still ok?

[@OMGThisIsAwesome]

Does anyone know if I can connect both fresh water hose and grey water hose to a trailer so I can take a big long hot water shower?

[@glennnewton4170]

I like my filter last , sometimes the sun can bring out the hose taste and filter last takes that out

[@mattmf01]

What's the best size hose for 50 PSI?

[@animeweaboo2168]

Currently having the problem of not enough pressure for my water to actually fill my tanks, it’s currently at 29psi (just picked up a regulator to see what it was at). The pressure isn’t high enough to open the nozzle where you connect the hose to the RV. We just moved the RV to our family’s trailer to have some cheaper rent rather than at the RV park we were at. I think the reason we don’t have enough pressure is because the house we’re at is connected to a well rather than city water. Does anyone know a way to increase our pressure to the recommended 50-60psi?

[@timf6916]

Nice

[@lancewulfers2502]

I'm surprised you connected your regulator directly to the spigot. We had one broken that way. We use a short flex hose from the spigot to the regulator like you did when you hooked the filter directly to the spigot. That way if someone trips over it or runs a bike into it your regulator can flex out of the way a bit.

[@curtiswylie207]

I always enjoyed your information, was disappointed when I emailed you with a question and never received a response 😢