How to Sharpen an Axe for Efficient Chopping

Geometry Cuts! Edge sharpness is of secondary importance and once an apex is achieved at the filing stage, higher grits equal diminishing returns. Its worth noting when cutting wood sometimes a toothier edge sharpened with a course stone can actually sometimes cut better than a higher grit smooth edge.
This is how I sharpen my axes and I think the results speak for themselves. I have no significant damage cutting beech, fir and sycamore/maple and generally take no care for knots. I do not baby my axes yet have had great success with sub 20 degree bevels on axes that are considered 'budget' such as council tool and hultafors/ hults bruk agdor. Any minor rolls or chips have been fixable by one or two passes with a file, hardly a catastrophic failure that some sources would claim.

[@jimmylarge1148]

Ben. Thanks for all the effort you put into informing us! You should have way more subs! One of the few “axemen” that u can watch doing a ton of work with an axe. Most and bigger channels obviously aren’t out doing what u do everyday. I value your opinion most of any “axe” channel I’ve come across. Thanks from Michigan.

[@benscottwoodchopper]

Cheers! I actually quite enjoy have a smaller more tight knit community. Glad you enjoy the videos

[@gumboot65]

I'm from Interior Alaska and really enjoy your vids

[@TheWtfnonamez]

You are a legend mate. Your well considered advice will allow normal people like me to turn crappy axes and hatchets into highly effective choppers. I hope you appreciate your service to other people.

[@radiowardenclyffe]

I cannot wait to try this, totally addicted to these videos, a fantastic resource.

[@seff2318]

Genius way to cut all the actual filing out of the video. I wish I had thought of this lol. I actually really enjoyed this one, great job man!

[@MrDunk66]

I am not a big axe user, but recently got caught up with Ben’s enthusiasm and was trying to measure the grind angles of the axes I have. I tried all the carpentry gauges I had, and made some templates. Threw all that out. Just trace your axe profile on paper in a notebook with a sharp pencil, extrapolate the angles for the cheeks and bevels on paper with a ruler, and use a cheap protractor to get an accurate angle - virtually zero expense and very visual and a good graphical record

[@benscottwoodchopper]

Thats a great idea

[@MrDunk66]

Not sure if this is a good enough representation of the profile between heel and toe.

[@Sager-fs9bv]

Very good info here. I do it the same way for the most part and I totally agree with you on the axe pucks too.

[@Sager-fs9bv]

Like to see a video off you chopping something a bit harder then a tomato with that racing axe.

[@brianpriest3638]

Great content! I wasn’t expecting the “nom nom nom” at the end! Keep up the great work!

[@coffeeandlifting]

Great tip on scratching the eye. I do that with most axes, and it installs an ideal primary bevel, and sets you up for an easy secondary bevel. Most people I see "restoring" axes on youtube grind the whole bevel at an obtuse angle to avoid the work of thinning out the bit. Maybe that doesn't matter on a decorative axe, but I couldn't imagine using an axe like that and pretending nothing is wrong.

[@benscottwoodchopper]

yeah I know what you mean, seen a lot of very obtuse 'restored axes'. Swing one for 5 minutes and youll find out the hard way how poor that kind of grind is. not only do they not cut but they decelerate suddenly when they hit the wood meaning a lot more shock is transfered to the hands and elbow. A miserable experience to use something like that

[@ajaxtelamonian5134]

Yeah most of them suck some serious ass even when theyre "Restored". Other day I did find one with a Sharp edge but they didnt bother to tighten the head lol

[@traditionaltools5080]

Excellent way to sharpen. Not just common to competition choppers but old school axe men. In many older videos you can see guys whip out an axe stone and just quickly touch up the micro bevel with a flick of the wrist.

[@bundufundi]

I should have re-watched this before cracking on with my Hultafors. I had forgotten how good this video is, thanks Ben!

[@benscottwoodchopper]

no worries, let me know if you need some help

[@205jab4]

I love my council tools axes. Out of all my axes I love my v.c. boys axe. Also I took the camp carver and put 26 handle in it and it is a beast. Throws wood chips like Sasquatch.

[@jeffreyrubish347]

That's actually how I sharpen. I put duct tape across the eye, though as my axes are vintage and I'm concerned with aesthetics.

[@scottishcottagerenovation]

A really good and detailed video Ben.

[@douglas9607]

Thanks Ben. I like the sound of a file on good steel.

[@sooziewho]

“Nom nom nom” 😂 you could do a cooking segment using the Tuatahi to slice and dice.

[@beavercreekwoodcraft8134]

So im only 5 min in, This is quality stuff Ben, I would of course, expect no less from someone that actually uses their tools!🤣 I too usually grind in a 22-16 main bevel and then usually roll the actual apex to a greater angle. But I would like to comment on the "speed bump" theory. I think I greatly depends on the wood in your environment. Case in point, My American axes are typically set up with a very smooth and slightly convex edge that goes from cheek to final apex and they cut our hardwoods best in that state IME But I have had a chance to cut some softer Grey Birch, which is very similar to the native Finnish Silver Birch, with my Billnäs 12.2 set up with a traditional grind, flat ground bevel at 30° with no convexing of the "speed bump". It cut it very well, exellent penetration, no bouncing out of the cut or binding. The fairly flat sided Maine wedge is another axe that defies my experience, it cuts extremely well in our hardwood yet is doesn't stick. Something I thought only an axe with a high centerline and good grind could do. Its hard to say what will work when axe geometry, species of wood in the environment, and the individual users skill and experience can vary the opinion so greatly. But this stuff is fun and engaging to talk about and we all learn from it. Thanks for putting put some awesome content, your stuff definitely has an influence on my thoughts and experiments.

[@richardsullivan1776]

I have a lot of balsam fir to split next spring. We had a really bad storm on the east coast of the states and it rocked upstate/ central New York two weeks ago today. I had a 70 foot balsam fir uprooted a long with two other smaller balsams. I used my Husqvarna 350 to limb and buck the logs and had so many branches and debris to burn. I just finished stacking all the rounds for the season. Two feet girth at the base and it gradually narrows towards the stem. This past Monday we got our first snowfall of six inches. Early winter snow fall here.

[@benscottwoodchopper]

2 feet is pretty big, fir can be hell to split if its very knotty

[@gumboot65]

As most of my axes are old or antiques. And definately have a good cost to acquire and ship. And , I have Very frozen wood where I live Mid October to mid, late April. I am Super worried about breaking a big chip out of the bit. I do Not like a bouncy axe, but don't like a sticky axe either I dislike sticking more than bouncing. I have a HYTEST Challenger that is Fat that I want to try thinning down to 20° . But I think I'll get a guages first

[@Chris-hf3zh]

Good job, thanks very much!

[@SkeleCCXL]

very helpful, thank you

[@redcanoe14]

Ben, I am happy to say you are bang on with the edge geometries. I have proven how a micro-convex secondary bevel considerably strengthens an edge without impairment of cutting ability, as with my demonstration of the edge "issue" on the Les Stroud Bushman Axe. Also, the review of the Toporsib Bobr Axe (Siberian/Taiga Pattern), wedged profile/ wedged cutting edge, stropped micro bevel...chops like a Beast! I still am researching Billnas/Kellokoski (Finnish) Axes. Most of mine are thick to very thick wedges tending to be fairly heavily convexed. I have seen an old video of Finnish Forest Workers (1940's) in competition splitting logs and limbing large trees. Of course, it would be good to know how they filed the edges. nevertheless all their axes appear to be the 'typical' thick wedge patterns. I also agree that there is a lot of strong opinions out there! Best Wishes, Chris

[@benscottwoodchopper]

I think the finish axes arent really for bucking efficiently but mainly splitting, limbing and carving meaning the prefered geometry is different

[@redcanoe14]

@@benscottwoodchopper Perhaps so, most falling at that time done with bow saws. I have a Billnas 12.3 and what looks like a 12.1 that may have been re-ground, they actually buck quite well (The 12.3 is a slimmer wedge than the 12.1 and 12.2. Also lighter, it is a very good limbing axe). The Billnas no.7 I have is a heavy wedge with shorter cutting edge, with heavy convexing;, the head weighs about 3.5lbs, it splits very well. I have seen old photos of them been used to split Birch Stove Wood lengths very effectively. Often two such axes would be used to rive down heavier logs (swung alternately by two men, women or boys in the war effort to process firewood). the polls are heavy and show sighs of heavy beatings. Incidentally, the Birch hafts were/ are very durable and transmit less shock than the regular 'American Hickory'. That said, there are specific ways the Birch handle wood is prepared and hung and the grain orientation was different to what is seen as optimum today.

[@hauki9286]

@@redcanoe14 I'm not an expert on this subject, but there certainly were dedicated logging axes in Finland that were slimmer in profile. The saws, especially big two man saws "justeeri" becomes replacing the axes and the axes started to get more general shape. The Billnäs 12/1/2/3 i think was marketed like a general axe. What i have seen old Billnäs axes the polls are almost always heavily used, maybe from driving wedges.

[@redcanoe14]

@@hauki9286 thanks for joining the discussion

[@redcanoe14]

@@hauki9286 Hopefully you can open this link showing a Finnish Foresters Competition in 1945.. yle.fi/aihe/artikkeli/2006/12/08/metsurit-kilpasilla?fbclid=IwAR37OAui1yp09J2mZ8HbEsijcY_ISE9v_tOCgnoG2KmmT0kAJEZecpFUwnM#media=16814

[@johnmutton799]

Having a thick piece of leather as a guard on the file is a good idea. If youslip it saves the fingers. Liam Hoffman is not a tree surgeon. Or forestry worker. The reason axe heads are shaped like they are, is because they are designed for a specific job. Different grinds for different timber.

[@corymiller9854]

excellent I love axes with bite such a joy.

[@ajaxtelamonian5134]

It was only by going to a Sharpening course with the Hedgelaying society i realised how much work I needed to put in to even just a hatchet like the 20" rucksack axe by Bahco which has grown on me since then as a nice beater with a piece of waxed linen wrapped round the neck because a friend of mine cracked the handle. That Tui at the end is disgustingly sharp lol

[@benscottwoodchopper]

Not tried the bahco axes but they do seem like they have good potential

[@ajaxtelamonian5134]

@@benscottwoodchopper Got an oldie boys axe with the black paint and Helko Werk stamp on as well for a tenner on Gumtree because im a student its thick as hell kind of like a main wedge pattern I mean its a great splitter but still needs a fair bit of work to cut well it was definitely designed as a chainsaw axe with a pretty wide poll and nice straight handle is suprisingly powerful for a 2 1/4lb head. They seemed to know what they were doing.

[@benscottwoodchopper]

@@ajaxtelamonian5134 I used to have a 4lb HW stamped one but it was stamped sandvik, i think bahco took them over

[@Abbbb225]

I'm glad I watched this video. It gave me a better idea of what you mean by various terms. For example, what you call a microbevel, by some definitions at least, is what, on a knife, someone would refer to as the edge bevel (where a true microbevel is invisible to the naked eye, and the result of a few passes on a strop making the very apex of the edge more obtuse). While what you call the edge bevel, on a knife, someone might call the primary grind (i.e. the grind before the edge grind on a flat or saber ground knife). The tuatahi axe you brought out at the end may have answered a question I had in mind: what would happen if you did a true convex grind? The convex grind you showed is not a single grind - there is a convex grind, and then another grind (cant' tell if it's more flat or convex), and then your "microbevel." If you eliminated that secondary grind, and brought the initial convex geometry all the way to to the apex (with no secondary bevel, or a true, hardly visible, microbevel), you would have a much finer, albeit possibly more delicate, edge. A good convex geometry, though, even when zero ground (no secondary bevel), can help support even a thin edge, like an arch, so I'd be curious to see if it's too fragile for an axe, especially if not done too thin. While it may be good on an axe for strength, splitting profile, or preventing sticking, from a cutting point of view, in terms of the edge, a convex geometry is wasted if you add a "v" edge (flat-ground edge) to it - the whole purpose is for the continuous convex geometry to come to the apex (or just short of it with a very small microbevel, if needed for edge stability), as it can allow for more strength on a thin edge, and flows through wood better, having a much smaller contact patch than a flat-ground edge with greater separation of the medium (splitting of the wood, in this case, but even on a small scale, ito of the edge itself, rather than the whole axe-head shape, although is the same principle at different levels of resolution).

[@briantaylor180]

Great video, I’m just getting into the axe word and this really helps! I

[@shaveclassy9986]

Ben I have just spent probably 3 maybe 4hrs all up, filing a Hults Bruks axe it looks about right now very keen to get into some wood with it crikey it was thick have you had much experience with Hults Bruk?

[@benscottwoodchopper]

I really like the hultafors/hults bruk agdor axes, but have no interest in their more expensive 'premium' range.

[@205jab4]

I think your very knowledgeable on axes but the only thing I disagree with is stoning your axe. Yes it is maintenance but it should be done about every 12 hrs of use. For some that's once every 2 yrs but I have to do it about every 2 or 3 weeks. You can get by without doing it but it will keep it at optimal cutting ability. Axes are like opinions, so your not wrong by no means bc that's what works for you. Your a great axman. Keep it up!.

[@benscottwoodchopper]

No I agree, the major point I was trying to get across was your axe should cut well after the filing stage. Once you are happy with the results and have used the axe a fair amount THEN stone the edge. after that you should'nt need to use the files again often, only for major damage or thinning the bit again as it wears back

[@205jab4]

@@benscottwoodchopper Yes sir. I stumbled on your channel and loved it bc of the no nonsense straight up approach of showing people how to use axes safely. Your extremely knowledgeable on axes, and finally someone agrees with me on the gfb small Forrest axe. Most people worship that thing but best use I've gotten out of it is for kindling. I have been using my prandi and my vevicut by council tool. You should do a vid on a prandi and see if you like it. Thanks for replying and for your great video's . KEEP CHOPPIN...

[@benscottwoodchopper]

@@205jab4 I am very interested to see how prandi compares, probably will get one at some point

[@alldaytony2751]

This video makes me chuckle, you say you really dont need a stone but then use the stone for the final edge, then you say you don't need a gauge but then use it to see what kind of edge you got.

[@benscottwoodchopper]

the point is you can do it without, but i might aswell show how to use them in the same video no?

[@MidwestFirecraft]

Could you provide a link for the grey bevel gauge? Have not seen one like that and it looks superior to the one I have.

[@benscottwoodchopper]

Its an ochsenkopf one specifically for racing axes, 17 to 13 degrees so not that handy for most uses, better off with a veritas one with 45 to 15

[@MidwestFirecraft]

@@benscottwoodchopper Thank you sir!

[@timc46440]

What kind of files do you use/recommend? New files in the US are all Chinese/Mexican junk that go blunt after one use and new old stock Nicholson's are bloody expensive.

[@benscottwoodchopper]

Vallorbe files are the best ive used, swiss made and quite cheap here

[@2294cb]

Timbo Slice I ordered a 10“ Bahco farmer‘s file on Steven Edholm‘s recommendation and it gets the job done. Cost me $19 on Amazon.

[@benscottwoodchopper]

@@2294cb Bahco ones are perfectly usable, vallorbes cost me about £7 or $10 and are better though. Ive heard vallorbes are hard to find in the states though

[@2294cb]

Ben Scott looks like I can get Vallorbe for about $38. I‘ll check them out when I need a replacement.

[@benscottwoodchopper]

@@2294cb $38 for one? screw that, buy enough to make postage worthwhile and see what customs will charge, gotta be cheaper to order from the uk www.axminster.co.uk/vallorbe-swiss-flat-files-200mm-ax979512

[@ronkay1573]

Good job

[@Iliketobeactive]

What’s the downside to not blending the two angles?

[@zombiefighterof1987]

Despite my axes mostly being wedge bangers, i still like to have a sharp edge and good geometry in case my saw gets pinched by a limb it's the quickest may of freeing it. I agree you really don't need to have an axe be all that sharp, though i personally still do get it shaving sharp just because i enjoy the process, but it is totally unnecessary.

[@benscottwoodchopper]

Indeed i also like sharpening, can be pretty relaxing

[@zombiefighterof1987]

@@benscottwoodchopper Regardless of it being pointless, i think most people can admit to the satisfaction of achieving a really sharp edge on any tool.

[@benscottwoodchopper]

@@zombiefighterof1987 what I was trying to get across is its best to get a axe cutting well after filing and then use stones once you are happy with the angles. I agree it is very satisfying especially when you get an axe to shave for the first time

[@13bravoredleg18]

What are your thoughts on a 1500gram Rinaldi felling axe? Is it too heavy or too light for chopping?

[@benscottwoodchopper]

1500 is absolutely fine. The perfect chopping axe is somewhere between 1000 and 1500 depending on the person

[@micktheweld]

Is your opinion on the speed bump still the same?

[@benscottwoodchopper]

Yes

[@Marian1983.2D]

If Council Tool and Hultafors are cheap, i wonder then what axes are the expensive ones? :)))

[@benscottwoodchopper]

you can buy council tool for £25 and hultafors for £40. Expensive would be gransfors at £120-150

[@Marian1983.2D]

@@benscottwoodchopper Sorry to tell you this but the cheapest hultafors axe where i'm from is 80 euros. That's about 90 dollars. So it ain't cheap at all. When your salary is about 450 euros, trust me, 80 euros for an axe, it's a lot.

[@benscottwoodchopper]

@@Marian1983.2D not sure what you are getting at, what is cheap in your book then? Price changes depending on what country. Hultafors, Rinaldi and council tool are probably the best qaulity for the lowest price out there i know. Do you have a brand in mind that is better for much less? I think at that stage we are talking chinese and they are garbage these guys ship hultafors all over europe. uk.knivesandtools.eu/en/pt/-hultafors-chopping-axe-1000-gram-hy-10-1-0-sv.htm

[@Marian1983.2D]

@@benscottwoodchopper I'm not getting anywhere. What i call cheap is an axe that costs maybe 9-10 dollars. That's what i call cheap. And yes, it's chinese but i have some of those and they are still going strong after 4-5 years of using.

[@benscottwoodchopper]

@@Marian1983.2D The trouble is with Chinese stuff is the quality control is poor, therefore It is difficult for me to recommend anything to other people. I do have a older Chinese diamond brand axe which is good. A council tool axe costs £25 here and a pack of cigarettes is £11, a bottle of decent whisky starts at £30 so for the majority of my audience that is very cheap for a quality tool. I do think what matters most is not how the axe is out of the box but how you sharpen and modify it. And of course how you swing it. I may keep an eye out for even cheaper axe in the future but so far i haven't seen anything very good

[@Gunni1972]

Casually splits a cherry tomato. Lol

[@johnseropyan]

Hello what premium axe would be your recommendation for splitting axe

[@benscottwoodchopper]

Muller biber 1.8kg splitting axe and ochsenkopf spalt fix make a good pair

[@johnseropyan]

@@benscottwoodchopper thank you

[@johnseropyan]

@@benscottwoodchopper is one good at one thing and the other for something else. Maybe soft and hard woods?

[@benscottwoodchopper]

@@johnseropyan one is 4lb the other is 6lb, both work well on soft and hard wood

[@johnseropyan]

@@benscottwoodchopper thank you very much

[@CrazedFandango]

Where do you get the angle gauges?

[@benscottwoodchopper]

Google veritas angle gauge and hopefully you can get one in your country

[@CrazedFandango]

@@benscottwoodchopper Thanks Ben - I'm in the UK, so plenty of options.

[@alldaytony2751]

Link me to where I can get those files please.

[@benscottwoodchopper]

Axminster tools

[@swellcat66]

Toe-MAAH-toe grind.

[@PATCsawyer]

Getting the profiles and bevels just right is not quick work. Once done you will not want to let it out of your sight and certainly not loan that axe to anyone you don't fully trust.

[@jodyfree953]

👍🏻💯

[@jamesoleary4742]

did the same bevel as that and broke frist time using it =(

[@benscottwoodchopper]

Any more details? what wood, what brand were you using and actual angles did you end up with?

[@jamesoleary4742]

@@benscottwoodchopper it was pine and to be fair it was very hard and knotty... Axe was hultafors 1.2kg the one you recommended, did a nice job with the handle and all 😪 didn't know actually angle but did same as you.

[@benscottwoodchopper]

@@jamesoleary4742 how bad is the damage? If its minor chips or rolling just file them out putting on a steeper secondary bevel.

[@jamesoleary4742]

@@benscottwoodchopper it's fairly bad big piece came off it.. Not to worry its all learning process, keep up the good videos bud 👍

[@benscottwoodchopper]

@@jamesoleary4742 Ah that's unfortunate, still should be able to file it out, but before you do try to find some way to measure the angles, that way you know for the future what is too extreme. There is also the lower possibility of it having a bad temper but its hard to say without seeing it. Just seen this today, happened to a brand new gransfors www.reddit.com/r/Axecraft/comments/f4r9iy/chipped_my_gransfors_bruks_is_this_normal/?

[@BlackTalon53]

You need a belt sander my dude ....

[@benscottwoodchopper]

I have one specially set up for doing racing axes, but most people dont. Its an essential skill to hand file an axe

[@elemental4rce]

Get gum