HUSQVARNA FOREST AXE: Grinding the Bit To Chop Well, & Why Most Axes Don't

[@brianpriest3638]

Glad to see more axe content from you! I’m tired of the same old generic unboxing videos, where they hack at a half rotten sapling for 45 minutes and rave about how great their new found prize is. I have an old Kelly true temper that needs exactly what you’ve covered in this video. I believe I’ll give it a try.

[@armeddoomer6709]

It's rare that agree with someone so much. I've done this exact thing to an old collins homestead axe I bought for like, $20 on on ebay. I think modifying ones tools to suit their preference is something completely lost on my generation and the newer generations, but I find that not only does it give one a tool they're very satisfied with, it gives one a since of satisfaction and person achievement as well as gaining knowledge, confidence and experience. very well done video. Thank you.

[@evangoodwin4698]

“Never underestimate how bad an injury you can get doing that.” Personal experience on my part proves this. I was sharpening a machete with a file and the edge didn’t stop until it hit the bone in my thumb. Be safe ladies and gents

[@SkillCult]

word

[@nisamvise1724]

how did the healing process go?

[@missingremote4388]

At the time, were you drunk?

[@GiantPinhead]

I rewatched this again last night, and I think it's one of the best and most useful videos you've made. Maybe not the most exciting, but thorough, well reasoned, and complete. My hat is off to you, as usual.

[@SkillCult]

thanks :)

[@allendeanhuscusson459]

So grateful that you are taking the time to teach this technique and the time to explain how and why!

[@2STROKESTUFFING]

Love your videos! Woke up with a strong urge to work with and learn more about axes the other day, and stumbled upon your channel. Especially enjoy the amount of thought/reflection going on, it's refreshing. Btw, dragging on the backstroke makes it much easier to keep a consistent angle in my opinion.

[@SkillCult]

Cool. I find it much easier to index with the file with the back drag.

[@GabrielCsillaz]

"I'm not going super deep" - 1 hour video xD

[@William_Asston]

One hour to cover a whole lot of science, philosophy, semantics, practical skills, tools, techniques, etc aint too bad. He didnt go very deep, but deeper than 5 min wranglerstar "file 'er then stone 'er" videos

[@shahriaraghajani3486]

@@William_Asston, well said. One of these guys is the antidote to the other.

[@ScurvySander]

I've been using my hatchet and axe a bunch recently and I'm learning a ton from your axe videos! I also made a whet stone puck like you did and its getting a lot of use. Glad you enjoy teaching us on KZbin how to maintain and improve our tools. I honestly thought files only existed to be baked into cakes to assist in jailbreaks!

[@ryanhughes2865]

The occasional chicken squawks in the background crack me up, I love it. It’s a strange but surprisingly welcome contrast to an otherwise detailed discussion.

[@SkillCult]

It was just background this time, which is fun, though they can be pretty annoying at times.

[@maydaverave]

I kept looking around my house thinking a chicken had got inside.

[@willcarmack1242]

Unfkn believable...information overload....SO glad I found your channel...Your knowledge and explanation cutz thru all of the other resources I have found...Saved me years of trail and error and kept me safe...Thanks again!!!...Much Respect from St Petersburg Florida

[@chuckthebull]

Your vids always make so much sense to me. Ben Scott is great too and very willing to give advice. I like both your clear rational calm approach to this subject. I'm just new to getting into axe work and never realized how much goes into it. It's fascinating and exciting for me to start working on my own axe acquisitions. cheers.

[@joshuamoses1631]

I like your file technic. Makes sense to me, and like you, I dont worry about what people think. It's what works for me. Thanks for the great video.

[@terraecriação]

Obrigado por sua aula meu amigo. Minha machadinha estava com o corte quebrado (falha no corte) Olhando seu video eu consegui eliminar a falha no corte e deixá-la reta. Agora estou desbastando e posteriormente vou dar o toque final. Um abraço do Brasil.

[@parallel4385]

Great series. I took your advice on my boy's axe and removed a lot of material from the handle. What a difference. Now to get out the file and get it cutting better.

[@swnorcraft7971]

I recall filing a hand axe a few years ago. I remember thinking that the cheek area was too thick and filed it down some....not even knowing what I was doing. I felt a little self conscious or self doubting about what I had done. I retrospect, I see that I was right in my line of thinking about that axe. Now I want to dig it out and rehash it's capabilities and re assess what I did to it at that time. I trust most of what I have gleaned from your channel. Love your work. Thanks for the long tutorial on how and why the re-profile of this axe...........Be well.

[@SkillCult]

It can be a little intimidating to file them down. I mean you can't put it back. Probably one reason that most don't file them down enough. it helps a lot to have some reference and info.

[@davidbarclay3651]

You are a good teacher. I did the same to mine. I chuckled with every decision you spoke of. I watched your video on the Counsel Tool Boys Axe, which I also share and became a student. Thanks Stephen. I still pray for you and the Lime. Do not say that you "have", in reality you are "battling". Having is owning, and we don't want to own that crap. Bless you.

[@SkillCult]

I rarely use the term lyme even. I just use it for convenience so I don't have to explain.

[@davidbarclay3651]

Got it. I still have been pray for a miracle for you.

[@bcubed72]

That intro just earned you a subscriber!

[@SkillCult]

cheers :)

Don't know if will see this comment. You are an inspiration. Because of your channel I have got from eBay 4 good old inexpensive axe heads: a boys axe, a flatter profile capenter hatchet, a double bit and a four pounder single bit. The double bit, axe boy and the four punder single bit all them need this same treatment because I live in the Caribbean (Puerto Rico, rural mountainous area) and don't need any wood splitting but rather good chopping tools. Thanks, you are really the best.

[@SkillCult]

Good to year, glad I could help. Stay safe.

[@michaelstyles4678]

I've noticed this with Corporals Corner as well that you and him both CARE about what people write in the comments when it's negative feedback/immature feedback. Don't give power to those people by acknowledging them, they just haven't grown up and learned to have a mature discussion rather than a heated arguement. Keep up the great videos man!

[@SkillCult]

Easier said than done sometimes lol.

[@JoeBob79569]

It's not too often that I click like on a video after 10 seconds, but that beer comment pretty much impossible not to...

[@MP_Single_Coil]

The echo down the valley of your chopping was wonderful.

[@Tinkering902]

Great video, many axe videos on KZbin but not many have actually shown such an important lesson.

[@microaggression3359]

That waterstone is a an absolute beast. I love them I also like a hard gator brand pocket stone for field repair. Not necessary but convenient.

[@gerardb285]

Great video! Your straightforward approach using basic tools for axe handle shaping and filing an edge on an axe bit are refreshing and very helpful. I followed your advice on lightly back dragging the file when sharpening the axe bit. This technique produced a nice flat grind on the edge with the file. It was night and day difference from the other edge that I had filed with no back dragging. Most importantly, this technique kept the file in the same position with a fluid motion. I refiled the other edge and now I can use the puck to remove the file marks. Then onto the leather strop. Thank you!

[@SkillCult]

Awesome. It is a lot easier to keep a good index when back dragging vs lifting all the way up. You can learn to be pretty fast and accurate picking up, but it's definitely slower and more difficult to learn. Stay safe. That axe is going to cut like crazy. make sure it's cutting wood and not you :)

[@j.t.patton7820]

Thanks Man...I learned a lot there. Your words mean so much more seeing you actually do the things ;)

[@mr.zardoz3344]

Everytime i watch a video of yours, I learn. Thank you.

[@SkillCult]

:)

[@bartcornelius7717]

I have the same axe. I like your sensible approach to axe manship.

[@tidge879]

Your comment about how using machines makes you only consider how fast you can get it done rather than take the process a step at a time really struck a chord with me!

[@SkillCult]

So true for me. I have to be careful to realign my attitude when using aggressive power tools.

[@seantap1415]

Respectively speaking or not depends on who you are...I laughed out loud.

[@SkillCult]

he he...

[@fbwestwest]

I'm really looking forward to the video about edge profiles and shapes. I enjoy the way you explain things.

[@SkillCult]

Well, I hope I get it done, but it's really mostly an expanded and more explained version of this. Most of the important stuff is here or can be extrapolated at least.

[@W4ldgeist]

Really interesting modifications. Your changes made the axe look a lot like the old (100+ years) axes I find in old houses or in old shops that are sold out after the old craftsman died here in Germany/Switzerland. Thin handles, front thinned etc. I bet those old hand tools are better for the job, because people using them back then had to use them 100% of the time. Every optimization would've helped their whole day of work and therefore most craftsmen would've adopted a more optimal way to shape and make a tool. There would be more experimentation and fiddling of individual craftsmen, because it would give them an edge over the competition.

[@billmccaffrey1977]

If you're going to drink a beer, you should offer to share. Thanks for the axe tips.

[@ironwoods5751]

I was literally excited for this video.

[@SkillCult]

awesome :)

[@BOOSTEDLASER]

@@SkillCult Well I tried this. You made this look WAAAAAAAAAAY easier and faster than it really is. At least as a first timer.The stone is AMAZING !!!!! Talk about this thing more. It seems I have NEVER EVER used a proper edged axe. I did final sharpen with a Work sharp at 20 DEG..If its chippy or rolley,next time I will 25 DEG it My cheeks came super puffy and WAY uneven.

[@wyattbreymeyer4033]

whats even cooler about this video is it shows basic sharpening period, axe, knife, as a person who sharpens tools on the reg its nice to see someone explain it to people who may not know any of the terminology

[@SkillCult]

I have a couple of videos where I talk about sharpening. My main goal is usually to present what I think are fundamental truths or foundational understanding and also, what will go wrong and why sharpening or shaping might fail. It's a deep rabbit hole, that I've never really gone down and don't want to. I'd like to create the accessible version. Not to be confused with the dummy version...

[@mvblitzyo]

Watching this video, is like sitting around a campfire .. listening to a really good story at the edge of my seat! in amazement thank you so much.

[@SkillCult]

Maybe I should have a chalkboard in firelight next time :)

[@Joe___R]

The reason that a file will dull faster if dragged backwards is that it can cause the very tip of the teeth to get bent over or break since they have less strength in that direction. As long as you let off most of the pressure on the back stroke it shouldn't have any noticeable effect on the life of the file.

[@SkillCult]

That seems to make some sort of sense logically, but I'll believe it when I can see it happen. If you have any interesting reference material on that, I'd be curious to see it. thanks for commenting.

[@customcutter100]

Excellent video! Used to sharpen the axe and machetes on the survey crew. It took me almost a week and my lunch hour to every day to take the cheeks off of a splitting axe to make a good cutting axe. Got good at putting a shaving edge on them by draw filing with a large bastard file, and stropping on my work boot.

[@beavercreekwoodcraft8134]

Having a more closed hang or having the heel behind the toe like you showed, will give the axe a shearing action without the potential safety issues of having a very rounded edge profile.

[@ajaxtelamonian5134]

Yep I have the Rinaldi American Boys axe and that's really good for that reason among others.

[@larshandberg5917]

Just bought that excact axe yesterday. Now i know how to modify it, and make it chop. Thanks.

[@ronmccarty7537]

Dude! I winced when you moved that log with your leg!!! I used to chainsaw carve and do that more than I should have oh, I realize there is a fine line with the angle that you can use with your knee... try not to get in too much of a hurry bro.... I absolutely love your videos! You think things through and explain yourself very refreshing! THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME ADD EFFORT!!!

[@briancavanagh5502]

Dear skillcult... ⚒️🙏🏼 muchas gracias for your work... My axe is now set up like this and cuts wonderfully. Could you say something about field honing? ie edge maintenance while out in the forest. Strop, puck? Primary bevel then secondary? Any other considerations? Gratitude again here from the Amazon. I'm removing the xylem from big hardwood logs and this (plus the video on repetitive strain) helped immensely

[@SkillCult]

That's great to hear. for all day field, you probably should have a file close by. Otherwise, an axe puck and a strop should do fine. I have specific ones I like that may not be available there. Look up my video on Japanese axe puck waterstone. I like the farmer's file, sometimes called an axe file, but a good 8" mill bastard should be fine too. With those you can do pretty much everything, except removing large amounts of metal. also watch one called something like "thoughts on sharpening axes, while sharpening"

[@bk-pk4wv]

Great video. Detailed. Easy to understand, and a charming host. Good job.

[@blackdave2211]

Awesome, I‘ll be happy to tune in!

[@mrpanda39]

Nothing wrong with drinking beer mate. Here in Australia people drink all day 😂

[@simonbedenbender3087]

mrpanda39 distant German giggle:)

[@sidstone8845]

In Maine, babies drink beer instead of milk

[@dermotmcgreevy5220]

@@simonbedenbender3087 distant Irish giggles

[@juls7724]

....you can try with a glass if wine...it's fine 😁. My granny used to pour wine on my soda when i was just a kid (8 years old). "It make you made blood" she always says

[@dennisobrien3618]

I either never knew or had forgotten Owen's last name, but that young man can really use an axe. One of the most accurate, powerful, and efficient swings I've seen outside of timbersports competition. I discovered his channel (elemental4rce) through Ben Scott (who is quite an axe man himself) when you passed the administration of the Cordwood Challenge over to him. I always enjoy axe-related videos by competent and knowledgeable people.

[@SkillCult]

yeah, those guys both show what happens when you actually chop a lot in the field.

[@grandriver3152]

Back again to rewatch this top-notch educational video.👍🌲

[@Trickydickysticky]

Love this video. I love the focus on axe safety, its not easily seen in a youtube video by an untrained eye. But there is actually quite a bit of thought put into it. I wish everyone respected their tools like this, it would lead to fewer injuries. These things really are dangerous.

[@SkillCult]

Yeah, it is easy to see someone experienced swinging an axe miss almost all the reading and moving and compensation that is going on to avoid accidents.

[@Trickydickysticky]

@@SkillCult Yes I would say it is deceptively simple. Will send this video to friends. Thanks.

[@jarredjones3358]

I have the same king waterstone, I bought it partially for my fine woodworking tools but also to make a puck after seeing your videos. The puck works great on axes and I'm very pleased but the stone wears disappointingly fast on harder tools, especially the coarse side. Even with my cheap chisels, half an hour of sharpening means about half an hour of flattening afterwards. Like I said, I got it to make a puck and for $15 the puck works great. I'd definitely recommend it for axes and such.

[@SkillCult]

I dont' own any except the King brand, but my sense is that all japanese waterstones wear pretty fast. You're right though, they do go quick. I usually use a brick for the rough flattening, and maybe finish with a diamond plate. I probably should get the pecial flattening stone.

[@jonathanschearer7778]

Excellent information, I rebuts have axes with my son and you have changed a number of things we do.

[@SkillCult]

Great to hear!

[@eaglescoutbushcraft6228]

Happy to get on KZbin today and see you have a new video. Thanks for passing on your knowledge, but sad to see the dreads were gone. Please keep making these very clarifying videos. Cheers!

[@fractalofgod6324]

Just got myself one of these axes... Super helpful video. Thank you.

[@jameshaulenbeek5931]

What are your thoughts on straight vs. curved handles for axes (or even hatchets/tomahawks)

[@SkillCult]

I need to do that video, very common question. I don't think it's anything to obsess over either way. I'm somewhat ambivalent, having used both. what I know is that very curved handles are weaker and become a detriment ergonomically at some point. I prefer to buck close up between the feet on short handled axes that have a curve at the butt end, like the average curved handle. And that good work can be done, and excellent accuracy acheived, with either. the last hatchet handle I made, I just put a small curve at the butt end and like that so far.

[@beavercreekwoodcraft8134]

I'm curious what your thoughts are on the more commonly "American" convex cheeks versus the hollow cheeks typical on most contemporary European axes? Granted, almost all modern axes are flat cheeked or hollow, but European, and much more prominently, American axes had convex cheeks in the golden age of axes. This is also referred to as a "High Centerline".

[@theguywitheyebrows]

i saw some NZ racing axes that seemed like they were thicker in the center of the bit than at the toe and heel, is that the shape you mean? where the cheeks look like (|) when you're looking at the edge of the bit?

[@beavercreekwoodcraft8134]

@@theguywitheyebrows yes, alot of racing axes are still set up with a grind like this.

[@theguywitheyebrows]

@@beavercreekwoodcraft8134 i have done a lil research into axes, more and more as i have fallen in love with them, seen a few different grind shapes that really interest me including some of that phantom bevel goodness and i wanna get (maybe forge) a wiide blade hatchet to dress with a banana grind just in order to better understand how they behave in use. one of those "can't make the best choices if you don't know all of the options" kind of things. thanks for your reply, it furthers my understanding

[@alphanumeric1529]

I can 2nd, or 20th the recommendation on that Bahco farmer's file. Very aggressive, teeth hold up well relative to the steel they remove. Buy it!

[@AcfLavertyy]

Hey @skillcult Firstly a huge thanks for all your informative videos. So helpful for me as I know noone with this kind of knowledge. Using it learn all the basics and how it all works. Was wondering, with a carving axe, do I want to create a similar edge? Just want it to carve wood well. Not really hewing as such, more for bowl and spoon making and just shaping wood. Kind regards Josh

[@SkillCult]

I just use my regular hatche for most carving. I'm not really a carver and don't have dedicated hatchets. You certainly don't need quite as accute of a grind though. Many are also single beveled. You might want to check out my friend at Woodsman's finest on YT. He's a great carver and has very specific opinions about that kind of thing.

[@ernststravoblofeld]

Back dragging hard just wears the teeth without cutting, so it's kind of a waste. Doing it lightly won't matter much. On very hard steel, it can bust teeth, but if it's that hard, you should be grinding anyway. On soft metals, back dragging helps clear the teeth some.

[@simonfitrzyk3559]

Furthermore, when dragging back, the point of the teeth have no metal to support them against the oblique pressure exerted on them (while when push-filing, there’s the whole body of the tooth to support.) If done with enough force, the points would bent or break. Done lightly, the phenomenon occurs on a very small scale-but still a waste of sharpness, however small.

[@SkillCult]

Again, where is any evidence, or even specific personal comparative experience? I just see theory here and anyone can propagate that or dream it up. I've yet to find any test or reference to testing. I'm not saying, you're wrong, just even a scrap of anything besides hearsay and theory and widespread opion might bolster your position a little bit. find this guy if he's still alive and tell him he's doing it wrong. He looks like he doesn't , know what he's doing :) kzbin.info/www/bejne/hmauoWONeqyUrbs. A file is a consumable item and there is an efficiency issue with picking up the file every time, v.s. maintaining your index. That is largely why I chose to back drag. But I'm unconvinced it really matters. Convince me.

[@ernststravoblofeld]

@@SkillCult Sounds like a manly folk knowledge problem. You see manly folk knowledge in any area that's somewhat technical, but not too difficult, like basic auto repair, making beer, amateur woodworking. Amateur gunsmiths are the worst. Manly folk knowledge is basically a form of the old telephone game. Usually based in some real knowledge, it passes through generations until it comes unmoored from real life and sometimes becomes unrecognizable. It often referrs to conditions of long past days, or specifics misapplied to the general. There's usually an element of just-so story, where someone in the chain of transmission had way too much time to think up their own brand of "well that's probably how it works," and added it to the mix. Highschool shop teachers can be a source of particularly mystifying manly folk knowledge. Manly folk knowledge ranges from benign to annoying as fuck, to oddly helpful. Sometimes, the application of much headscratching, pondering and field archeology methods, can extract actual historical real knowledge from the manly folk knowledge, but most often it's a wash. The purveyor of manly folk knowledge is a curious creature, identifiable by a self-satisfied look and usually an embarrassingly bad haircut. When their manly folk knowledge is questioned, they become agitated, and make a sound much like a sealion. It is best not to engage. Anyway, we live in a world of cheap files. It might be different if we had to anneal it, pound it flat and recut them. If you want real old-school file knowledge, look for Paul Hasluck's book Metalworking, from a hundred or so years ago. Reprints are easy to find.

[@simonfitrzyk3559]

@@SkillCult What I have stated logically flows from my notions of matter and physics; to me, it’s common sense. I have no scientific evidence to offer; I have not run an experiment to convince myself; never felt the need for either. You can have experience convince you, rather than me try to: Take two identical files in identical condition, and file two identically-shaped areas of the same material with equal pressure; lifting one file on the return movement, not the other (although removing the pressure;) and see if there is an appreciable difference in sharpness after x dozen/hundred strokes, and if that difference is compensated by the accuracy allowed by no lifting the file. I’d be interested in the results, although not so much as to run the experiment myself, not having yet encountered a case where lifting the file made it untowardly err from the index, while “common sense” prevents me from drag filing. And thanks for the link to the interesting video.

[@MD-mm1zv]

Do you ever use a grinder? CBN wheels? Especially to shape the blade first?

[@SkillCult]

Personally no. I've used belt grinders some for major removal, but I'm usually fine with filing.

[@gvidokepitis1068]

200% great video! I have a couple Husqvarna 26'' multipurpose axes, basically it is a Hults Bruk Kisa without a premium finishing. I spend a little bit time in accurate work and result was good. Methods how I did it was very similar your. Anyway I saved a lot of money,- Husqvarna 26'' standart line : 38 euro in my small town's Husqvarna shop , Hults Bruk Kisa premium line : something about 150, maybe more in internet + shipping. But finally the best: H 26'' axe -38 euro, replacement handle for it - 30 euro! I can break the handle and take it easy , let's go to bye the brand new axe - funny ! Once again thank You for Your .great videos and hello from Latvia!

[@SkillCult]

Hi Gvido. I think this axe is around 65 usd, which is right now 55 euro.

[@gvidokepitis1068]

@@SkillCult Hello, Steven! Maybe in US it cost's 65 usd, I don't know, but here it is for 38 euro, believe or not, but it's true. Yesterday morning I was in this shop for couple chains for my H-372xp, and specially watched to axe prices. I don't need to lie for You. This Husqvarna shop is not far from me - about 3 km and I can go once again and make a photo with prices, ha ,ha, ha. There are 5 or 6 Husqvarna axe models with hickory handles aviable at this moment, and prices are good. For example - carpenter's axe something about 50 -55 euro,I don't remember precise. But anyway thank You for Your answer I appriciate it, I will waiting for Your next axe video and sorry for my bad English, I hope You will understand ha ,ha ha !

[@OEF_Vet_0331]

Hey man, this video was awesome. Thank you for your knowledge sir

[@natenamjam9140]

Good video...thank you for the good info. Plainly put. Ever tried the fine side of a farriers rasp? I have had good results on softer steel, moves a lot of material quickly, it is a good sized tool to hold on to, doubles well as a wood rasp. Farriers get rid of them way before they are "used up" for purposes other than that which they are intended.

[@SkillCult]

Those are awesome. A lot of times they are discarded when not all that dull. I've used them for hot filing in blacksmithing too. That's pretty awesome. Coarse, but very effective.

[@CaptCanuck4444]

Learned a lot from this series, thank you.

[@broadusthompson1666]

I like that you mentioned the safety risk of filing towards a sharp ish edges. I absolutely despise golf ball file handles for that exact reason, even if you aren’t working on a blade you often have a sharp burr and that golf ball handle will put your fingers right in between a sharp edge and a hard place, where as with a traditional file handle you’ll hit the ferule before your finger in most cases. I’ve heard responses along the lines of “what kind of an idiot pushes so hard filing you slip?”, drives me right up the wall...

[@SkillCult]

Yeah, I've seen the golf ball, it looks pretty cool in some regards maybe, but never tried it. That is definitely an issue though. Filing axes is also why I don't use the full length of my file as much as I could. It's often clumsy, the poll is in the way and I tend to not file as close to the handle as I'm constantly aware of getting my hand to close to the edge. The guards are a good idea. As to pushing so hard you slip, unless the file is new, you often have to push hard enough so that it doesn't slip. i don't know about you, but to me a file should be pushed on hard enough to get an even, skid free cut if possible and not harder. Unfortunately, as a file wears, that requires more pressure. Files just slip, especially filing something clumsy like an axe. Some might say, get a new file, to which I would say, no. :)

[@notdirtyflics1067]

Is that axe welded together? It looks like it was cracked. 16:25

[@SkillCult]

No, that is just pitch or sap or something I think

[@mplussant]

I just got a Husqvarna and was looking to learn to sharpen it-Axe Sharpening for Dummies...this is the PhD presentation...SNORE...

[@batmanacw]

When I measure my convex edges I measure the final bevel angle where the light stops showing on my protractor gauge. I specifically call it the final angle as the entire bevel is a curve. In my woods chopping very hard dead hardwood, 22° is a happy place with a 30° micro-bevel about twice the width of a human hair.

[@SkillCult]

that's good specific data that doesn't leave much to imagination. Unfortunately not the common profiling conversation.

[@BlueGorillaInTheMist]

Are these inclusive, or the angles for each side of the edge (making the inclusive angles 44 and 60 respectively)?

[@batmanacw]

@@BlueGorillaInTheMist I give included angles only.

[@curtisjohnson944]

I had to jump to the cutting part of the video to see if your axe cut better than mine. It did. So I watched the whole video and learned something, which is what I use the internet for. Thank you for the education. The only time I chop trees down is for Christmas , otherwise I use my Stihl, but it will certainly make that job more fun.

[@pclarin]

You're a bad, bad man. After watching this video I spent an entire day filling on my axes, hatchets and even my lawn mower blade. Made me miss half of the 24 hours of LeMans car race. 😂😂😂. Thanks for the tips and demonstration. Didn't cut myself either. Thanks again.

[@SkillCult]

Ha ha, sorry. You need a TV in the shop :)

[@ThisAutomaton]

Excellent recording of the sharpening process, clear and crisp.

[@SkillCult]

I was kind of hoping the bevels would show a little better, but looks pretty good.

[@jamesl2950]

I've been struggling with sharpening my axe as I don't have a vice and working table. The puck method recommended by many doesn't work for me. But I totally agree with you on how thick that behind the edge is. May I ask what file you are using and recommend (it looks different from the Bahco)? I will try and look for one. And how do you cut the stone into smaller pucks with just handtools? Thank you.

[@SkillCult]

I do use a bahco there, the farmers file. the other is an old swedish file, a company that was absorbed into bahco actually. But any quality 14 inch double cut bastard should be a good aggresive file for ripping out a lot of metal.

[@jamesl2950]

@@SkillCult Thanks. Once I get a vice and proper worktable, I'll give it another go.

[@luciussulla987]

I tried a similar grind on a gransfors forest axe, definitely an effective tool afterwards. Just stumbled across this video again after seeing it years ago and now really want to do some more chopping and felling with my axes. Lately I seem to grab the same 2.75lb 28" yankee pattern Agdor to remove bark and knock wedges since any felling or bucking is done with a powersaw then split with a bigger beater axe. Think I'll tune that wedge banger up for chopping and try it out next time.

[@ajaxtelamonian5134]

Do like a 2 3/4lb annoying to try find though. I really like my Ocksenkopf Canada I think is 2 1/2 which is perfect for the smaller trees.

[@ajaxtelamonian5134]

Do like a 2 3/4lb annoying to try find though. I really like my Ocksenkopf Canada I think is 2 1/2 which is perfect for the smaller trees.

[@TheAnonymousSword]

An Axe is a tool to be used. First axe I ever bought was a Gransfors, that was a few years ago when they weren't as expensive. It since has seen a lot of use, had to sand down the handle tremendously and also changed the geometry to something similar that you have there. Sometimes you spend money on something that looks beautiful but isn't actually practical out of the box. Now my axe looks like it has been used, with lots of layers of linseed oil on the handle and I would say that I'd rather have this displayed at my wall, than the original unused one. Cool video!

[@chuckthebull]

One other thing..I notice that your axe sticks each hit and you have to often pull it off by moving it up and down with the handle. Could this be due to such a flat plane cut into the wedge and one that was more rounded off would not stick as much? (my logic on why they are ground with bevils in them at the sides) ? curious to know what you think? I'm about to file my double and want to get the best performance of course.

[@themadleaf]

I have the same axe and reworked the edge pretty much the way you did. 👍🍻 Thanks for sharing.

[@wyliegibson319]

Really good info, applies to hatchets also. Thank you.

[@DRJMF1]

I hope you continue successfully. Any good tips regarding sharpening an axe using a belt sander please ? When I deadlift, I follow a strict movement pattern, actually pushing instead of ‘pulling’ the bar off the ground, otherwise injury is possible when wright is over twice body weight eg 200kg. So, it would be a simple procedure to programme a neural network to follow a different movement pattern when ‘swinging’ an axe to gain velocity.

[@jinxproof1905]

I totally appreciate these videos, even if I don’t agree with all the advice (based on my own experience). Some files are designed to work better in one direction, same as some saws. A better reason to not drag the file backwards would be to maintain a consistent texture in soft Swedish metal. The reason to file pushing towards the blade is that it doesn’t fold the metal edge over (create a burr), which can happen when pushing the file out from the behind the blade. If people are worried about getting cut, wear gloves. To avoid scratching the cheek of the axe, place a heavy cloth or piece of leather under the file.

[@SkillCult]

The bur still needs to be removed to prevent damage to the edge the first time it is used. I've never found filing straight into the edge, v.s. along it, to yield a smaller enough bur to matter. I'm going to stone or strop it to finish anyway.

[@elemental4rce]

Thank you for the Shoutout Steve! Second time watching this just to try and process it all. That's a lot of information in one video! So glad you made this though and hope you get time to do some more at some point. I'd love to see a video on your thoughts on 4lb+ axes and how you would use them compared to light axes like this husqy & the boys axe etc. You do an incredible job explaining things for people. Also, when if ever, do you feel it's an appropriate time to use a convex grind on an axe? Personally I'd always use a flat grind with a tiny micro bevel. On that note, recently I've been considering using stones to form my micro bevels. The idea being that the finer finish creates a stronger microscopic edge that a toothy file finished edge. I've been having lots of issues with my council boys axe just on green wood lately. Intrigued to see if it makes a difference to the durability.

[@SkillCult]

Sorry I didnt get your channel name right though. I don't own and have never used a 4lb or heavier axe. I actually almost started hanging a 3.5 lb on a 29 inch handle today, but i usually use under 3lb and am just pretty happy with that. But I very rarely chop in large wood either. One thing I really like about light axes is the handling and what you might call the sports car factor. One handed use and just zipping it around fast. It's a trip to watch those old vids of the guys using super heavy axes. It's obvious the amount of cut they are capable of, but also how much they are putting into slinging them around. As for convex grinds, I don't know. I'm still pretty in the dark about what is best where and when. I have not noticed that there seems to be much of any kind of magic to convex axe cheeks vs flat, have you? My edges end up convex and blending back into the cheek after a little sharpening. The reason I really like this is that it gives such an accurate guage of what is going on to reduce the concept literally, physically to two different flat bevel angles. Otherwise, as you proably know, it's easy to end up thicker than you think it is and once a flat cheek is established, you realize how fat it actually is.

[@SkillCult]

Oh, and I think you might be right on the edge durability. I like the way I do it finishing with 1000 and stropping. It doesn't take long, even if you just use a file to set up initally by drawfiling, those waterstones cut super fast and stropping is quick. Stropping probably makes the edge more durable by rolling it over a little more convex shaped at the edge and getting rid of more large teeth that are going to mash up the first time the edge is used. Makes sense to me anyway. How wide are you micro or secondaries usually? I don't like to go too fine for the reasons I stated. I'll do really dumb shit with my axes sometimes, like toss them, or try to throw them and stick then In a round of firewood :/

[@redactedcanceledcensored6890]

I work with knives more than with axes, but I think convex edge offers better penetration than flat edge with the same edge angle, especially on deep impact cuts (which are common when using axes).

[@elemental4rce]

@@redactedcanceledcensored6890 I'd argue the opposite. Flat grinds are extremely good from a penetration aspect. I would say that a convex has the potential to be more durable and perhaps. That said, it all depends on the severity of the convex. If it's only subtle I very much doubt you would notice much difference.

[@mikebingham7189]

Funny, I just finished putting a new edge on a very old Craftsman hatchet given to me when I was about 10 in the early 1960's. This hatchet would bounce off wood and I never used it. After much trial and error and time I found the most effective method was what you are doing. Wow does it bite. Thanks for the instruction! You're right, once we agree on the language then we can communicate.

[@SkillCult]

That might be made by plumb. I think they were one of the companies that made axes for craftsman. The old plumb hatchets and axes are often extremely fat in the bit. A classic and sad example is the boyscout hatchets. My first hatchet was an estwing, which I quickly learned to hate. My second was a plumb boyscout hatchet that was so fat you couldn't do any real work with it except for splitting and I was like WTF? I've seen many of them since and never saw a single one that was ground well, or even close. We probably won't agree on the terminology, which is fine and I'm part of the problem since I avoid getting wrapped up in terminology. We just have to remember that we might not be interpreting things as they are meant and vice versa. The good part is if we take the opportunity, we can spend more time talking about how it all works instead of communicating in more abstract language.

[@mattnorris529]

Opening statement was amazing. I’m subscribing right now!

[@SkillCult]

thanks :). Welcome

[@ryannafe9252]

Solid work. And I fully agree about hitting dirt, rocks, etc. Pay attention to the surroundings and be aware of what’s going on, and avoid obvious potential problems when you see them. But when work needs to be done, real work, and it’s not playtime in the forest with your hipster bushcraft friends, things will happen. It’s a tool, it’s gonna be fine after a quick filing at the worst.

[@SkillCult]

I'm particularly sloppy actually, but if I'm chopping a whole lot, I just get to the point where I make very few overcuts in bucking and it's more like the occasional rock sticking up. I've only damaged one really badly and it was ground super thin as an experiment, so I just kind of learned that it just doesn't matter that much if I get a little light damage here and there.

[@enzowilson345]

Just got the hultafors version of this, so useful info, thanks!

[@theurzamachine]

Hultafors sells something called a "Felling Axe". Would the default profile for that be what you are attempting to achieve here?

[@SkillCult]

I doubt it. Almost all axes need work. But they might need a little less.

[@christurley391]

I find a slight back drag on the file aids in chip clearing. You should try the Simmonds multicut file. It is a fairly coarse segmented single cut file. And has a high metal removal rate but at the same time cuts smooth.

[@SkillCult]

Thanks, that sounds interesting.

[@christurley391]

@@SkillCult I spelled that wrong "Simonds multi-kut"

[@ThomasShue]

So, what is the best AxE for chopping down trees?

[@SkillCult]

No such thing I don't think :)

[@lorenray9479]

Like your form! My 30 year old files need to be replaced. My new tools are sub par. I reshape most all or just make my own!

[@sethpatchell8404]

Love the long video my friend! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us and spreading the obsession!

[@richkeagy8907]

Work is a blessing.

[@travissawatzky5205]

Your files are in better condition than mine and they still work fine

[@fotostudio68]

Thank you very much for video! Cheers from Russia!

[@SkillCult]

Hi, thanks!

[@Tom_Bee_]

First time I've seen one of your videos and I just had to subscribe. Theory and practice clearly explained. Excellent, info rich production. Thanks for sharing.

[@SkillCult]

Thanks Tom, and welcome :)

[@lurchie]

It's really satisfying to watch those big beautiful chips fly.

[@KarstenM.]

In Germany we stay in do learn to backdrag the file, but without presure and I have used old files which have been used this way for a long time with no problem!

[@SkillCult]

Interesting. The only real information I've found on the no back dragging thing, is an old nicholson file company booklet. they offer no actual proof, it's just asserted that the file should be lifted. It may be that they did some kind of testing, who knows. backdragging seems to work for me and I have some pretty old files. Maybe someday some one will offer me at least a personal anecdote, or even some more objective information, but so far zero.

[@benscottwoodchopper]

Gotta agree that style of axe is a nice compromise, tried the gransfors 20" and it was very lame, no idea why anyone would choose it over 4" longer, no real difference in comfort but night and day better chopping. I have the hultafors version of that husqvarna and it is very good value for money, £35 rather than £120 for the gransfors. I need to learn better terminology for sharpening, tbh I just learn by doing rather than watching videos so some terms I have picked up get used incorrectly.

[@SkillCult]

I don't actually believe that much in correct terminology. It's convenient when we agree on conventions and communications can go smoothly, but mix ups and differences are bound to happen. One problem with language that is a common pattern across the board is that we can adopt terms that make it easy to have conversations without really ever describing problems. I actually go out of my way to ingest terminology about sharpening. Im pretty sure I made up the term secondary bevel when writing the sharpening chapter for my buckskin book, but who knows where else I might have picked it up. Sharpening wasn't a "thing" back then. Anyway, avoiding adopting any popular convention on sharpening terms has forced me to think about how it works physically and in analogies, which I find very helpful to internalize the most important basic principals in a functional and less abstracted way. I can make arguments for what I think microbevel, secondary bevel and convex bevel mean, but I don't expect anyone to necessarily follow suit. I don't only think its inevitable that we'll have to qualify and explain what we mean sometimes, I think it has it's upside, as long as the conversation stays about the subject matter and not the terminology.

[@N8urecure]

Ben Scott I agree! I have one of these and it’s great. I’ve got a 20” axe and I really find it to be a stupid size/length. A no good compromise. I feel better off using either something bigger and more effective or using one of my smaller hatchets or tomahawks which basically cut at least as well as the 20” but are of course lighter to pack and are in fact for me easier and more pleasurable to use.

[@SkillCult]

@@N8urecure Pretty much what I said on instagram yesterday, I don't like axes between 25 inches and an actual belt hatchet. I think they have a place for some people, but they are castrated compared to a long handle with the same head, whatever size it is, and like a hatchet made more awkward, with only a little more advantage over a 16 inch handle.

[@baroneb5043]

I have the GB Small Forest Axe, have had it for years never let me down... what dont u like about it ?

[@benscottwoodchopper]

@@baroneb5043 Mainly the length, never feels right in one hand or two. It barely chops better than a hatchet yet is barely any better in one hand than a 24" axe. I know it is intended as a compromise size but it is a poor compromise imho

[@jeffreydustin5303]

I learned a lot about filing. Great job!

[@buddyblankenship4186]

It’s your file , your tool , you bought and paid for it, you can use it how you want to , right . I’ll drag all my files back like that . There’s a big difference between dragging a file back with no pressure , and trying to file on both push and pull strokes ! Love all your videos very informative . Have you ever tried the Norton India stones , I really like using them before my King 1000 grit water stone

[@SkillCult]

My buddy had some norton water stones that were really nice. I don't like any of the old hard norton stones, they cut too slow. I have tons of old stones and they almost all go unused in a box once I got a coarse diamond plate and japanese water stones. I love watching Paul Sellers sharpen stuff. diamond plates and a strop and he's done in like one minute.

[@congamike1]

Funny you should mention it, I just used that puck to sharpen a chisel today. It works great! Thanks for pointing me to it. Husky R&D people should pay you for doing the testing they should have already done. Thanks for the video! Your axe gets stuck with every blow. Some people don't like that and would replace it with a more blunt tool.

[@SkillCult]

I unsold a lot of hatchets for them. they probably hate me lol. Hopefully they are listening though. a lot of axes are so dull that they practically bounce out of the cut, which is too dull and actually dangerous. but beyond that, axes can cut not so great and still stick. a lot of that sticking is due to the pitchy, tight grained fir I'm chopping. I don't really understand sticking well yet, but different woods will require different grinds for the best combo of cutting and not sticking, strength etc. Not my thing. I'm always switching woods and not switching axes.

[@ajaxtelamonian5134]

Rather it cut into the wood than bounce out and yeet into your shin.

[@suburbanhomesteaderwy-az]

Great video as always. I put you on my Featured Channel for this week. Always great info. I'm starting my apple seeds this week as the cold stratification is finished. I'll let you know about the germination rate from your seeds.

[@SkillCult]

Excellent, thank you :) Good luck wth the seeds. I find that they usually have a high germ rate if they aren't drowned.

[@axeldrane]

Noob question : Would you recommend doing the same on the 13inch Husqvarna axe too..?

[@SkillCult]

I'm not a fan of that axe. You can watch my review. I don't remember what the bit was like. I'd do it to anything you want to chop well.

[@outdoors-fun]

Curious if you have seen the new'ish Husqvarna Camping Axe. Would love to see a review and and modifications you would do to improve its function for removing small limbs from dropped trees and splitting kindling.

[@SkillCult]

Yeah, I have it. they actually sold that first, then ditched it for the newer model, heavy hatchet, which I hate. I just got it and haven't messed with it yet. I'll review it eventually.

[@outdoors-fun]

@@SkillCult I look forward to seeing it. I shaped my handle, oiled, and sharpened using the methods and stone you suggested. I haven't done anything else to the bit though and would be interested in your thoughts on if it needs modding for it's intended purposes.

[@robbieedwards1456]

I think a good curve aids deceleration speed and helps prevent shock, as well as the better shearing and cutting potential