How to Sharpen and Maintain a DHK Knife - Learn to Sharpen the DHK Way - TreelineUSA.com

[@kevinpeterson2199]

This is a method I have been using for awhile. Recently damaged the edge on my DHK , but I started with 1000 grit and proceeded to 3000 grit. Then I stropped. The edge was better than when I got the knife. Now I need to round the back of the blade for smoother cuts.

[@The_Original_Nitro_Rat]

Nice P.J!..I chuckled to the wife a little when I read the title to this video because I've been doing this for yrs to "repair" blades. I started doing this for my flex cuts after torturing them by running them thru oaks n maples carving spoons "you can imagine the damage they took". l recently pulled my sandpaper's back out to do the same with MY DHKs and like the fkex cuts or any blade..it worked perfectly! The sever thinness of the DHKs edges is why they are turning into thee blades to beat for sharpness in the whittling world. Love the knives and like any others sometimes need ah lil EXTRA tlc and this video is great for explaining this technic to new or seasoned whittlers in helping them repair a chip ,rolling an edge or just tuning up ah edge after some heavy work. I can vouch for this technic for like I stated.. I've done it to repair an edge for yrs!👍🏽 nice job P.J.. nice technic.. excellent video!

[@susanp.collins7834]

I bought a second-hand knife this afternoon. Made in China but with WW1 stamped on the blade. LAUGHABLY blunt blade - you could actually press it against your thumb and it just left a red dent. Got some 800/1000/1200 sandpaper (I already have the lower grits) and then I'll strop. I clearly have a lot of work ahead of me but it looks like a nice knife with a nice handle. Be nice if I could get it really sharp.

[@susanp.collins7834]

Hey, I did it! I followed your instructions and I got that knife SHARP!!! I tried it on a soft tomato (acid test!) and it took PAPER THIN slices off it. I am CHUFFED!

[@davecohen4384]

Great video and AWESOME knives!!

[@fouroakscrafts7240]

Great video, PJ! I've loved carving with my DHK and you're right that you don't have to strop as often. What do you recommend long term if you keep the blade stropped and in good working order? Should you ever have to use the finer sandpaper at some point or could you just continue to use the strop? I'm just talking about for long-term maintenance if the blade is still in good working order.

[@treelineusa]

Great question! For the most part, you should only need a strop to maintain the DHK knives, but you don't have to strop as often as you do with other brands. When it seems like the blade is "sluggish" going through the wood, then strop. If you get little nicks in the blade then go to the 600 grit paper. Of you have to completely regrind a bevel then use this full method of going from 80 to 180 to 600 to the strop. Again, great question!

[@SewWhittle]

I recall hearing that sandpaper isn’t necessary on any knife unless it has been damaged. Not true?

[@treelineusa]

That is completely true! If your blade is damaged, nicked, or rounded over then you use this method to resharpen. Depending one the extent of the damage will determine if you start with the 80, 180, or 600 grit.

[@BillO964]

Unless I have somehow damages or nicked a carving knife or gouge, I almost never use anything other than a leather strop with some compound. If you stop and strop every 20-30 minutes while carving, there should be no reason to have to use sandpaper, a wet stone or any other heavy abrasive on your carving tools. Of course most brand new tools need the edges properly sharpened before use.

[@treelineusa]

Great comment Bill! I completely agree. With most carving tools, all you need is to strop every 20-30 minutes. With the DHK knives, stropping that often is not required. Many people are going several hours before they need to strop. This DHK sharpening method is for when there is damage to the tool (roundness to the bevel, nicks, or really dull). Rarely will someone need to go to 80 grit, however, when a tool is in bad shape, this method gets the knife back to "carving ready" quickly.

[@northpole-vh6df]

My new dhk has a little wave in the cutting bevel (near the end of the tip) when arrives. When, following the step using 80,180, and 600, The little wave disappears, but my Knife is not sharp as before when I first time buys it. Do know to solve this? When using the sandpaler, it's really hard to get brur on the middle of the cutting bevel. maybe that's the reason ?I'm still beginner and thank you for the vjdeo, it's really helpful .

[@treelineusa]

Good question. I would make sure that you have the bur for the full length of the blade before moving onto the next step and then be sure to remove the bur/wire edge completely before carving. If you need help, feel free to give us a call. 1.800.598.2743

[@jkrjhn8]

I recently purchased a DHK. Not only was there a "wave" in the bevel, but the cutting edge was not flat/straight. It has a curve in the middle of it. I'm guessing yours does too. You will have to sharpen on the sandpaper until it's even. AKA until there is a bur along the full length of the blade.

[@bradtate158]

Should I buy a new strop if I change color of compound?

[@treelineusa]

Good question. I would use the back of my knife and scrape off the old compound and reapply the new. I think you will be just fine using the same strop.

[@Chris-qg4zo]

Do you have a video on sharping a carving jack?

[@treelineusa]

Sorry, no video on that but here is a link for some information on sharpening the Flexcut Jack knives. www.flexcut.com/assets/Product-Instructions-and-Downloads/carvin-pack.pdf