How to Prepare a New Pocket Knife for Whittling: Edge Geometry

[@andrewgward7]

I just bought a new pocket knife that I plan to use for whittling, I did most of the work with my bench grinder. This video really helped me understand what to do next with it, so thank you😁.

[@JoshsShop]

My pleasure, I'm glad it helped.

[@ghayes2135]

Glad I found your video. Just bought this knife. Thanks

[@JoshsShop]

I really enjoy mine, I hope you do as well.

[@jacobschulze9659]

Thanks for showing this. HUGE difference.

[@JoshsShop]

My pleasure. 😁

[@strawberrydolphin7324]

Thanks for the vid 😁 it helped me a lot.

[@garypaulson5202]

Great video, thanks

[@JoshsShop]

Absolutely, glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.

[@andrewgward7]

I just found a new method of sharpening my tools. Wet or dry sandpaper, it got my rough rider pocket knife razor sharp! I learned this from DHK knives, who uses it for their production of carving knives.

[@JoshsShop]

Yeah, wet dry sandpaper works really well, that is what I started sharpening on. The only reason I went away from it was because I was going through a lot and decided to invest in something that wouldn't wear out so fast.

[@JuanGarcia-s7s6k]

all you say is true buthaving the talent to accomplish it had eluded me. i cant sharprn a knife... enjoy you videos.

[@JoshsShop]

I bet you could get there. Just practice on a cheap knife that it doesn't matter as much if you mess up.

[@dannosoar2534]

I have the same knife but I’m a beginner whittler/carver waiting until my sharpening skills improve to a point where I can attempt to work on such a nice knife. My question is are those gloves cut resistant? I’m trying to find cut resistant gloves that don’t make my grip feel clumsy.

[@JoshsShop]

The gloves I'm wearing in this video are just vinyl gloves because I don't like getting all the sharpening swarf on my hands, no cut resistance. I generally don't wear gloves or guards when I whittle/carve for the exact reason you mentioned, they make me have less control. I am just very careful about my cuts and control. That said I understand why people like to wear safety gloves. The best ones I have found for the rare occasions when I do want to wear them are a fabric glove dipped in a rubbery coating on just the fingers and palm. They are tighter fitting and offer better grip. I haven't tried this specific brand, but something like these: a.co/d/10Jg4xC

[@woutmoerman711]

Thanks for the video! One question, I thought a scandi grind also was convex but do you consider it to be different?

[@JoshsShop]

I'm sure that some of these terms mean different things in different regions and to different people, but to me a Scandi grind is flat. Here is an image with a few different grinds labeled: survivalschool.us/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/knife-grinds.png

[@woutmoerman711]

@@JoshsShop ah, thanks! I heard that Scandi grind is how axes are ground. I think I have bad examples of axes around here...

[@JoshsShop]

A convexed grind isn't too unusual on axes, it adds strength to the edge. I have a few axes that I maintain a convexed edge on.

[@peteswright]

OK Josh. I really want to know more because I have some bad blades to get in good shape before rolling that technique. I want to start to create by hand a flat grind which will be straight flat from spine to cutting edge. Then vary what I do bevel or no bevel. Do you, or can you show how to accomplish the flat grind, by hand and stone first, then then I can take it from there hopefully. I'm very impressed with your thoughts and techniques and think you can take me to the next level Thanks in advance. PETE.

[@JoshsShop]

I think the trick to achieving a flat grind by hand is similar to what I do in this video, just don't allow the curve. Only pull on the stone, and lock your wrists and arms in such a way that you maintain a constant angle on the blade. There are tons of videos out there about hand sharpening, and it seems like just about everyone has a slightly different technique. Poke around and watch a few and experiment to see what works for you. If you still have questions, I am happy to help as much as I can.

[@rjvcescobar]

What would the best gring for Sweedish flat plane carving ???

[@JoshsShop]

I think that is a matter of preference, but for flat plane carving most people would probably recommend something like a Mora knife with a flat or scandi grind, so that you have a larger flat surface to help maintain nice facets.

[@stevenc6256]

Great vid. Can you tell me the brand name of the stones you are using? looking to purchase, but confusing what a quality stone is. Thanks

[@JoshsShop]

Thanks, and thanks for watching. The stones you see in the video are DMT 8" x 3" diamond Sharpening Stones. I have 4 stones and if I remember correctly they are extra coarse, coarse, fine, and extra fine. I will put some links in the description of the video so you can be sure to see exactly which ones I am talking about. I like the DMT stones, and I would buy them again. I picked my stones up over the course of a few years (they are pricy, and it took me a while save up for them) several years back. You can find similar stones for less, but their reviews are spotty and I fear they won't hold up. There are a few other reputable brads out there, but DMT is the only one I have first hand experience with.

[@JoshsShop]

The links are up there. It is worth mentioning that the 8"x3" stones are big and expensive and maybe overkill for some people. The DMT 6"x2" stones (affiliate link amzn.to/3kLrIUp ) are a good bit more reasonably priced. Consider your needs, maybe the smaller stones would suffice, and your money would be better spent elsewhere, or maybe you are like me, and you will really enjoy the big surface and find the cost of the bigger stones a worthy expense. Anyway, thanks again for watching.

[@stevenc6256]

@@JoshsShop Thanks a lot for getting back. Very good info. I surely will look into them.

[@peteswright]

Hi Josh. Just subscribed. As you are pulling the blade towards yourself on the stone, are you raising a burr on both sides to form a new apex? ALB.

[@JoshsShop]

Hi Pete, thanks for subscribing, and sorry for the slow response, busy summer days with my boys. Ideally, as I am reshaping the blade I will raise a small wire burr along the entire edge. That I then remove with the strop. I find it tricky to capture that on video, but it is certainly what I am striving for. That way not only did I shape the blade to my preferences, but I also made the blade razor sharp, which, I am sure you know, is seldom the case with factory edges.

[@peteswright]

@@JoshsShop Thanks Josh. ATB.

[@PulledPurk]

Im personally more consistent when i go back and forth sharpening. Lifting my hands after every stroke kind of resets me and i lose my "locked in" position

[@JoshsShop]

I do both, gotta find what works for you. Thanks for watching.

[@PulledPurk]

@@JoshsShop True dat. I'll go ahead and subscribe. My favorite knife to whittle with is my Case Half-Whittler

[@JoshsShop]

I'll have to give that one a look, I have a Case Seahorse, but not a half whittler, and I have a knife addiction to feed.

[@БорисЛис-й8и]

Удаление фаски, то есть создание прямого клина , хорошо для геомеррической резьбы , но , увы , этот нож не подходит для работы в "геометрии" ни ручка , ни тем более лезвие не созданы для такой работы, этот нож хорош для строгания и не слишком силового резания , и перетачивать его просто не имеет смысла . Не знаю какая сталь здесь использована и как она держит режущую кромку , может быть поэтому нож и имел линзообразную заточку ... Это моё личное мнение и я нисколько не умаляю проделанную Вами работу - это ваше желание , и работу Вы выполнили на отлично . Успехов и здоровья .🤝✊🏻👋‼️

[@grahamparr3933]

I use different grades of wet n dry, cannot afford fancy stones😟

[@JoshsShop]

Nothing wrong with that, the end result is the same. Gotta use what you have.👍

[@mustamuri]

💫🧸💫🙂👍

[@jotocs3]

Unless you can show objective comparisons to your subjective preference, I doubt that removing the bevel really was better off.

[@JoshsShop]

I agree that I show no evidence in this video of a convex bevel being superior to a mocro-bevel, but I did try to be careful in saying that it is my preference. I know of some very acomplished whittlers/carvers that also prefer convex bevels. But, like I say in the video, it comes down to what you are used to, and preference more than blade geometry. There are some amazing whittlers and carvers that prefer just about every different blade style I can think of. That said, your comment has gotten me thinking, I prefer a convex bevel, but I don't know if I have every really done an apples to apples comparison between a mocro-bevel and a convex one. I now have a new video idea. Thanks.

[@teunlll]

@@JoshsShop well I don't think evidence is necessary here. It indeed is a preference. And like you said it's subjective. I also prefere a convex bevel over micro bevel. The video is great and I look forward to the other video he just talked about.

[@JoshsShop]

@@teunlll thanks for watching. I did make a video where I compared a micro bevel to a convex bevel, you can find it here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r4C6epiJgtGKZ8k